Hi there,
This August, I hiked the Vosges section (Vosges massif) of the GR5 (Lauterbourg-Wissembourg-gr53-gr5-Belfort) using the TopoGuide "Traversée du Massif des Vosges" (ref 502, April 2024 edition). My experience was partly ruined by a few things I feel I should share here to help others avoid the same pitfalls—or at least disappointments.
Having used "TopoGuide" books before, I’d always trusted them for organizing treks lasting several weeks, or even months.
Beyond the satisfactory mapping (reproductions of IGN 1:25,000 maps), these guides include route descriptions that are usually enough to find your way. On that point, I have no serious criticism of the Vosges crossing guide.
In addition to the route details, the guide provides "average" time estimates for traveling from point A to point B—useful info for gauging effort and planning likely stages. However, I eventually realized I couldn’t rely on these time estimates. I’d assumed they were calculated by the FFRP, considering that 100m of positive elevation gain roughly equals 1km on flat terrain, with an average walking speed of 4km/h.
So, I’d recommend anyone using this guide to recalculate all the time estimates to avoid nasty surprises on tight stages. 🤪
Another key feature of the guide, in my opinion, is its info on accommodation options—especially budget-friendly ones suited for long-distance hikers on a tight budget. A section called "préparation des étapes" includes a table with a column meant to highlight "refuges" and "gîtes d'étapes."
That column had me feeling optimistic: these budget accommodations were listed as plentiful along the route. After all, we were in the territory of the famous Club Vosgien—it made sense there’d be plenty of hiker-friendly lodging options.
The reality on the ground was quite different. The TopoGuide wasn’t really to blame here, except that a serious warning wouldn’t have hurt.
First, regarding the "refuges," most were run by associations. With rare exceptions, the volunteers only opened them on weekends. You can’t really blame people for not volunteering on weekdays, but it makes things tricky when the info about weekend-only openings often turns out to be wrong.
As for the "gîtes d'étape," I was mostly disappointed when I was told that a place was booked for weeks: the vast majority of what was listed as a "gîte d'étape" turned out to be "gîtes ruraux."
The advice here? If you don’t want to—or can’t—camp, double-check all the accommodation details before you set off. It’s time-consuming and tedious, but if you can, camping is still the best option. 😐
On a brighter note, during the first part of my trip, I came across several cabins that offered alternatives to camping. 🙂
P.S.: Even the youth hostel in Saverne was closed in the middle of August... 😕
I’m heading to Nepal at the end of April 2026 with my brother, the two kids, and my mom.
My mom is 75, in good shape, she walks but isn’t a big sports enthusiast. My daughter is 16, she’s not really into hiking but with the right vibe, she’ll step up.
I’m looking for a 5-6 day trek that’s not too difficult—around 4-5 hours of walking and 500-600m of elevation gain per day. What’s our goal?
Well, like everyone, we’d love something not too crowded. We want to experience Nepali village life away from the main routes—terraced fields, all that. Some encounters, authenticity, sharing... And if we can catch a glimpse of some high peaks, even better.
Any suggestions?
Hi there,
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
Hello,
I’d like to know what small gifts I could bring for women, children, and men in the Surma tribes of the western Omo Valley.
Usually, I bring pencils, pens, perfumes, and cigarettes, depending on the country.
What do you recommend?
Philippe Departure on 11/13/24
What do you recommend?
Philippe Departure on 11/13/24
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there, I’m struggling to get back into hiking and I’m considering tackling the GR5 from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean shores in August-September.
Since I can’t plan daily distances in advance, I’ll be bringing gear to bivouac.
I’m not familiar with this route and wanted to get an idea of water resupply options before setting off: are sources and streams still flowing easily in late summer on this GR, or should I prepare for long dry stretches? 😐
Since I can’t plan daily distances in advance, I’ll be bringing gear to bivouac.
I’m not familiar with this route and wanted to get an idea of water resupply options before setting off: are sources and streams still flowing easily in late summer on this GR, or should I prepare for long dry stretches? 😐
Hi there,
I’m ready to set off on the Peaks of the Balkans trek from June 18 to July 3.
I’m used to long distances, elevation gain, and self-sufficiency.
The last thing holding me back is overcrowding.
Have any of you done it recently? Could you give me some insight on that and any other tips that might be useful?
I’ll be arriving in Tirana, and any advice on getting to Theth would be a huge help too.
Thanks for your replies.
Alain
Hi there,
Apart from the few short hikes I’ve ticked off around Ampefy (Lily Falls to the Third Falls, geysers), do you have any must-do recommendations for a day hike between Ampefy and Antsirabe or around Antsirabe itself? I’m looking for a big, full-day trek, even if there’s a lot of elevation gain.
P.S.: I’ll have a private driver.
Thanks in advance! !
I wanted to share an incredible experience I had recently that really left an impression on me: hiking the Mercantour independently. It’s an absolutely stunning mountain range, with varied landscapes that go from lush forests to rocky ridges, passing through high-altitude lakes with unbelievable colors. I chose a one-week route, sleeping under the stars in a bivouac.
It was a pretty demanding adventure, with significant elevation changes and sometimes unpredictable weather. But every effort was rewarded with breathtaking views. I was lucky enough to spot marmots, chamois, and even ibex in the distance. It’s truly a total immersion in nature!
A little tip for those tempted by the adventure: plan your route and gear carefully. Independence requires good preparation. I particularly appreciated having a good water filtration system and lightweight cookware. And for safety, aside from a map and compass (or GPS), I never leave without my two-way radio. In these remote areas where there’s no mobile signal, it’s a real safety net in case of trouble or just to communicate with other hikers if you’re in a group. It can really make a difference!
If any of you have already hiked in the Mercantour or have questions about my experience, don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to chat with you about this beautiful range or other hiking destinations.
See you on the trails! 🙂
It was a pretty demanding adventure, with significant elevation changes and sometimes unpredictable weather. But every effort was rewarded with breathtaking views. I was lucky enough to spot marmots, chamois, and even ibex in the distance. It’s truly a total immersion in nature!
A little tip for those tempted by the adventure: plan your route and gear carefully. Independence requires good preparation. I particularly appreciated having a good water filtration system and lightweight cookware. And for safety, aside from a map and compass (or GPS), I never leave without my two-way radio. In these remote areas where there’s no mobile signal, it’s a real safety net in case of trouble or just to communicate with other hikers if you’re in a group. It can really make a difference!
If any of you have already hiked in the Mercantour or have questions about my experience, don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to chat with you about this beautiful range or other hiking destinations.
See you on the trails! 🙂
Hi everyone,
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
hi,
we’d like to do a trek in Nepal, and we’re thinking of the Annapurna Circuit—it’s cheaper than the Everest trek.
Our plan is to do it without a guide or porter. We’re used to the mountains, not so much to high altitude, but if we acclimate well, there’s no reason it should go wrong ;)
No guide = handling permits, transport, and accommodation on our own...
So my question is: is it possible to book lodges in advance before departure? Or, even better, day by day?
I’ve read some older posts, so I’m asking again to get up-to-date info on what’s happening now. We’re planning to go mid-November 2026 or March 2027.
Thanks for your tips! :)
No guide = handling permits, transport, and accommodation on our own...
So my question is: is it possible to book lodges in advance before departure? Or, even better, day by day?
I’ve read some older posts, so I’m asking again to get up-to-date info on what’s happening now. We’re planning to go mid-November 2026 or March 2027.
Thanks for your tips! :)
Hi there,
I’d like to spend a week in the Dolomites (4 days of trekking and a few day hikes). Unfortunately, it’ll be in August (no choice). My questions are:
- For a first time in the Dolomites, which 4-day trek should I pick? I’d love the most spectacular and varied landscapes possible. Around 1,000m elevation gain per day.
- Is it busier the first or last week of August?
- Will it still feel "quiet" while hiking? Not like a conga line in August...?
Thanks so much for your help! !
Thanks so much for your help! !
Hi everyone! 😊
I’m currently working on a school project about hiking, and I’d really love to hear about your experiences. I’ve put together a short survey (3 minutes max) to better understand hikers’ habits.
👉 Survey link: forms.gle/JyJi8MWKy6aKZyy...
Your participation would help me so much, and all responses will remain anonymous. A huge thank you in advance to anyone who takes the time to fill it out! 🙏 Happy hiking to all! 🦥🌿
P.S.: I’ll delete this post if it doesn’t fit the forum rules.
I’m currently working on a school project about hiking, and I’d really love to hear about your experiences. I’ve put together a short survey (3 minutes max) to better understand hikers’ habits.
👉 Survey link: forms.gle/JyJi8MWKy6aKZyy...
Your participation would help me so much, and all responses will remain anonymous. A huge thank you in advance to anyone who takes the time to fill it out! 🙏 Happy hiking to all! 🦥🌿
P.S.: I’ll delete this post if it doesn’t fit the forum rules.
Hi,
I’m planning the Switzerland-Paris hike for 2026. If any of you know a route where I can stay with locals or in other lodging (no camping), I’d really appreciate your tips.
Thanks!
M Brunner
Hi there,
I’d like to visit several islands in the Cyclades in late June - early July 2026 for about 15 days.
Stay 3 to 4 days on each one and do some hiking.
Your suggestions are welcome—islands, accommodation, hikes, or anything else.
Thanks in advance.
Twizzle
A message in a bottle:
For a three-week trip in November... is it possible to go hiking without a guide in northern Vietnam, getting around to the hiking sites by public transport, bikes, or on foot? And if so, which areas specifically?
Thanks to anyone who replies!8
My husband and I are planning a 10-day trip to Northern Vietnam in November, traveling independently (no agency organizing everything) and using local buses. We’d like to spend at least 3 days in each place (including Meo Vac). We’re wondering if it’s possible to find local guides for day hikes, and if so, in which towns/villages (Meo Vac plus one or two other spots to explore the surrounding area).
Thanks!
Hi there, my friend and I are heading to Sichuan and the Kham region in August and we’d love to do a 4- to 5-day trek around Tagong. I’ve got a few questions:
1/ Is it possible to find a guide on the spot in Kangding, Litang, or Tagong at the last minute? Or better yet, do you have the contact details for a guide you’d recommend?
2/ I’ve found Chinese guides online, but no Tibetan guides. It seems to me that a Tibetan guide would be a better fit. What do you think?
3/ The listed prices are really high, especially because of the porter services (tents, cooking gear, etc.) and the fact that, on top of the high-mountain guide, there’s also an English-speaking translator. We’re used to hiking independently in the high mountains, we carry our own backpacks, and we don’t need a cook. Is it possible to hire a guide without porter services or with limited porter support?
I’d love to hear about your experiences! Thanks in advance! 😊
I’d love to hear about your experiences! Thanks in advance! 😊
Hi there, I’m planning to stay in Mae Hong Son for 4 days and Pai for 3 or 4 days to explore both towns and their surroundings. I’m not renting a car or scooter—I like to travel at a relaxed pace...
I’d love to know if it’s possible to do quite a few walks on foot from both towns and if it’s easy to find a tuk-tuk for the day to go a bit further.
I’ve heard that biking is really only for brave cyclists, which definitely isn’t me!
Thanks for your tips
I’d love to know if it’s possible to do quite a few walks on foot from both towns and if it’s easy to find a tuk-tuk for the day to go a bit further.
I’ve heard that biking is really only for brave cyclists, which definitely isn’t me!
Thanks for your tips
Hello everyone,
We’re planning to spend 15 days in early May in La Gomera, solely for hiking and exploring the island. We like to take our time and not rush to see everything. We’ve booked small hostels or hotels, and our itinerary will be: San Sebastian -> Playa Santiago -> Valle Gran Rey -> Vallehermoso -> back to San Sebastian
We’re hesitating about renting a car—it would certainly give us more flexibility compared to buses, but it also comes with a budget and responsibilities (parking, getting back to the car after a hike, driving fatigue, distances, etc.). Since hiking is our main focus, the ROTHER guidebook shows mostly hikes that are accessible by bus. Is the bus network reliable? Is it restrictive to go without a car, with 2 or 3 nights in each location?
Thanks for your feedback—we can’t decide!
Best, Thomas
We’re planning to spend 15 days in early May in La Gomera, solely for hiking and exploring the island. We like to take our time and not rush to see everything. We’ve booked small hostels or hotels, and our itinerary will be: San Sebastian -> Playa Santiago -> Valle Gran Rey -> Vallehermoso -> back to San Sebastian
We’re hesitating about renting a car—it would certainly give us more flexibility compared to buses, but it also comes with a budget and responsibilities (parking, getting back to the car after a hike, driving fatigue, distances, etc.). Since hiking is our main focus, the ROTHER guidebook shows mostly hikes that are accessible by bus. Is the bus network reliable? Is it restrictive to go without a car, with 2 or 3 nights in each location?
Thanks for your feedback—we can’t decide!
Best, Thomas
Hello,
In August 2025, I’d like to take a 4-week trip with my husband to Sulawesi Island, from south to north, off the beaten path. I’ve spotted two agencies that offer a tour matching my expectations: Altaï Indonesia and Azimuth Adventure Travel Ltd. Which one would you recommend? Thanks in advance.
Laurence
Hi! In March, we’ll be spending two weeks in the Drakensberg region and Golden Highlands National Park (Clarens). From what I understand, you have to pay to hike if you're in a national park. I can’t find the rates or info on whether there are multi-day passes if we hike for several days. Could you help me out, please?
Thanks
I'd like to do all or part of the GR 11 in June or July. Spain.
What shoes would you recommend, given it'll be hot and it's a mountain hike?
Regular hiking shoes or sandals?
Thanks
What shoes would you recommend, given it'll be hot and it's a mountain hike?
Regular hiking shoes or sandals?
Thanks
Hi there!
Discussions are rare and not recent, so I’m giving this a little bump—hope some folks are still around! ;-)
I’d love to head to Wamena and trek south through the Valley over 5-6 days on foot.
From what I’ve seen, finding your way isn’t exactly straightforward, and it seems best to hire a guide. I’ve never done that before because the encounters just aren’t the same...
Has anyone here explored the area? Is it feasible to trek down along the Baliem River, from Sogokmo to Kulise, then to Wamerek, cross over, and head back up along the river?
I’ve heard you should bring supplies to offer your hosts, which I’m happy to do!
What do you all think? The carefree spirit of my 20s is long gone, but I’d love to find it again, even just for a little while. ;-)
Thanks so much in advance for any tips or advice! Juliette
Has anyone here explored the area? Is it feasible to trek down along the Baliem River, from Sogokmo to Kulise, then to Wamerek, cross over, and head back up along the river?
I’ve heard you should bring supplies to offer your hosts, which I’m happy to do!
What do you all think? The carefree spirit of my 20s is long gone, but I’d love to find it again, even just for a little while. ;-)
Thanks so much in advance for any tips or advice! Juliette
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi everyone!
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
Hi there,
Could anyone give me some tips on 2-day treks in these areas? We're heading there in November...
Thanks so much!
Hi there,
We’re spending a month in northern Vietnam this coming November and we’d love to do some day hikes around the village of Mu Cang Chai to see the famous spiral terraced rice fields. We’ll most likely be staying in Mu Cang Chai itself and we don’t have a car.
It’s really tough to find a route online. Any tips would be great.
Thanks in advance.
A really nice nature walk at the entrance to the lake in the Natura 2000-listed nature reserve. It’s a great opportunity to see lots of bird species, plants, and the famous European pond turtle, as well as some beautiful medieval architecture remnants with Thomas II’s castle. The walk is slightly spoiled by the noise from the Savoie parachute club’s planes, which take off every fifteen minutes and dump fuel on the site non-stop, even after nightfall.









