Bonjour à tous.

Voila on part à 2 amies 3 mois en Asie du sud est dès le 6 février

Tout d abord Thaïlande, Cambodge assez rapidement et ensuite on arrive au Vietnam par le delta du Mékong vers le 6 Mars. J avais pensé faire ( vous pouvez me corriger si les étapes sont trop courtes ou trop longues)😂😘 :

-5 ou 6 jours dans ce delta ainsi que le sud

-Puis environ 10 jours dans le centre

-Et remonter environ 13 jours pour le nord

On y sera aux alentours du 20 Mars

On souhaite bien sûr faire l excursion 1 nuit/2 jours dans la baie de Lan HA mais mon dilemme est pour le Nord..

Nous souhaiterions voir des ethnies mais aussi si Possible des rizieres vertes.. Il y en a t il quelque part vers la fin Mars?

Si la réponse est négative vers quel coin se diriger pour les plus magnifiques vues à cette période de l année ?

Est il préférable d aller vers Sapa ou vers la province de Ha Giang

Merci infiniment de m avoir lu

Bonjour,

Nous allons effectuer un voyage au Vietnam fin octobre à mi novembre.

Nous arrivons au Nord et descendons vers le sud.

Nous souhaitons pour finir le voyage ce poser sur une île 4 à 5 jour. Nous hésitons entre koh rong et phu quoc.

Phu quoc semble plus accessible étant déjà dans le sud du Vietnam mais selon mes commentaires lu cette ile s'est très devellope et donc a perdu du charme, beaucoup de saletés... contrairement à l'île de koh rong qui semble plus paisible et avec de très belle plage.

Si des personnes sont aller à l'un ou les deux, je suis preneuse d'avis...

Merci

We’re heading to Vietnam for 3 weeks from January 17th to February 6th. In addition to the Mekong Delta and the central region, we’d like to spend some time by the sea. We’re torn between visiting the islands of Hon Son/Nam Du/(+Phu Quoc?) or choosing Con Dao Island. We’re hesitant because we’ve read that the sea around Con Dao can be rough and not great for swimming at this time of year (and that boats might be canceled). Could you share your thoughts? Thanks

Hi everyone,

We’d like to travel to Con Dao Island by boat from Can Tho. The return trip will be from Con Dao to Vung Tau.

We can’t find any ferry info online. Has anyone here done this route before? Thanks in advance for any tips!

Nous arrivons au Vietnam et voulons passer 1semaine à 10 jours à la plage question de relaxer avant notre long voyage de trois mois!

Nous regardons trois destinations plage: Phu Quoc , ou l’ile De Con Dao et aussi l’ile De Cham ?

Que pensez vous de c’est îles ? Nous hésitons pour aller à Phu Quoc car nous craignions que ce soit trop touristique!!

Hi there, Planning a trip in January to the Mekong Delta. Question: I’m stopping at Gieng Island—are there public buses from Ho Chi Minh City or Sa Dec that go near the ferry dock for this little island? Question: How do you get to Tram Chim National Park (the bird sanctuary) by bus? Finally, is there an app for public transport in southern Vietnam? Maybe some of you have been there before 🙂 Thanks for your tips!

Hi everyone! ☺️ In early February, we’ll be in Phu Quoc. We’re looking to stay in a hotel or resort near the beach—ideally beachfront—but most importantly, close to shops, little restaurants, and bars. Which area should we pick? The island seems so different from one spot to another... Thanks so much!

Bonjour, Nous voyageons avec notre fille de 2 ans avec les transports locaux, mais pas envisageable pour nous de moto ou moto-taxi. Nous souhaiterions inclure une étape lors de notre passage dans le Delta du Mékong entre Chau Doc et l'île de Anh- Binh. Quelle étape pourriez-vous nous conseiller, qui soit sur la route entre les deux ou vraiment pas loin, complémentaire au niveau des choses que l'on peut voir sur ces 2 étapes (tant qu'à faire) et surtout qui soit réalisable en transport en commun hors deux roues motorisées (hors scooter, moto ou motot-taxi donc). Sur place on aime bien marcher un peu, faire un tour en bateau ou à vélo (on a un siège pour notre fille). On disposerait de 2/3 nuits maximum sur place. Après Anh Binh nous irons à Ho Chi Minh Ville pour prendre l'avion. Merci d'avance pour vos conseils.

Allo,

Actuellement au Vietnam, j’aimerais visiter la baie d’Along, mais je n’ai pas envie de passer une nuit sur un bateau, ni de faire du kayak, ni de pique-niquer sur une île... Je n’ai pas non plus envie de partir pour la journée depuis Hanoi et de passer plus de temps en transport que dans la baie.

Me rendre à Along ou à Cat Ba par mes propres moyens, et ensuite prendre directement un tour pour la journée, tout simplement, ça se fais-tu?

J’ai regardé dans les anciens posts, mais j’ai l’impression qu’absolument tout le monde y va en croisière...

Merci à l’avance,

Bonsoir les voyageurs , voyageuses

je pars au Vietnam début décembre pour un mois , je souhaitais attendre sur Phu quoc ma famille et amis qui arrivent qu'a partir du 21 décembre merci de me donner votre avis sur cette ile , logement , tranquille ou pas , et surtout bien routard , ainsi que des infos pratique et bonnes adresses j'y vais pour courir quasi chaque matin , et pour du repos avant la fête entre amis

merci pour vos messages à bientôt marc

Bonjour,

je pars dans quelques jours dans le sud du Vietnam. J'aimerais relier Vinh long à Soc Trang mais je n'arrive pas à trouver les infos sur d'éventuels transports en commun dans cette zone... Je voudrais me rendre à Soc Trang depuis Vinh long pour rendre le ferry et rejoindre l'île de Con dao. Est-ce possible? et si oui, est-ce un "long voyage"?

Je vous remercie d'avance pour vos conseils!

Marie

Good evening,

Exceptional floods occurred last week in central Vietnam, in the Hoi An and Hue regions. These areas get a lot of rain every year, but this time it's historically devastating.

The images are striking, horrifying, and surreal for those of us—like me—who walked these beautiful streets not long ago: the old town of Hoi An completely submerged, water up to the rooftops, the Japanese Bridge barely peeking out of the water... In Hue, the flag monument in front of the Imperial City entrance was nothing more than an island...

I’m not posting any links, but anyone can find them online if they wish.

Stay strong to our Vietnamese friends. And a strong warning to all tourists: avoid these regions. The water levels are receding, but more rain is on the way...

Hello everyone, we’re planning a trip to Vietnam at the end of June 2026 for at least two weeks. Our goal is to avoid rushing around too much and take our time, focusing on nature, hiking, and getting to know the locals. Here’s my first draft itinerary: Arrival and departure from Hanoi Sapa and its surrounding area Tam Coc – the "land Halong Bay" and Ninh Binh... Halong Bay (maritime) Cat Ba Island... I’d love to hear your thoughts, advice, and feedback. Looking forward to reading your replies. Cédric

Hello,

I’m planning and organizing a wonderful trip to Vietnam from mid-March to mid-April 2026, traveling independently for a month with my wife to enjoy her new retirement. Here’s a summary of our itinerary: We arrive in Ho Chi Minh City on the morning of Wednesday, March 18, and depart from Hanoi on the evening of Thursday, April 16. First, I’d like to head to Ho Chi Minh City because the temperatures are high in that region in mid-March. After that, we’ll visit Phu Quoc Island and then the Mekong Delta. We’ll return to Ho Chi Minh City and take a flight to Hue for 2 days, then Tam Coc / Ninh Binh (2-3 days), and Cat Ba Island with a visit to Lan Ha Bay (4 days). We’ll spend a few days in Hanoi, followed by 3-4 days in Sapa with some hikes, and then the Ha Giang loop (4 days). (I’m a motorcyclist—I ride a BMW trail bike and have taken care of renewing my international license.) We’re considering renting a motorcycle or bicycles when needed, except in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The weather in northern Vietnam in early April should theoretically be decent. Finally, we’ll return to Hanoi before heading back to Paris and the Pays de la Loire. Unfortunately, I’m skipping Angkor in Cambodia. I’d like to have a guide for 1 or 2 days in Sapa (which typical agency would you recommend?), and I’m wondering if I should book an agency for the 4 days in Ha Giang. I prefer my independence and don’t really like the "group" aspect of agencies. I’ll rent a 150cc motorcycle, and my wife will ride with me. Other questions: What are some good, typical accommodations to book in the places we’ve identified? Thanks for any info. Did I forget anything, or should we adjust our itinerary? Thanks for your help and advice. Pimarguibou

Hello, We’re a couple looking for a driver for 10 days to explore Northern Vietnam in April. Best regards,

Hello and happy to be back on this forum! We’re planning our trip to southern Vietnam in February. We visited central Vietnam two years ago. For now, based on reading various posts, we’ve drafted the following itinerary, keeping in mind that we travel by public transport and rent bikes or motorbikes when needed. We also like to take our time! So far, we’ve only booked our flight tickets: 1 Paris – HO CHI MINH 2 & 3 Visit HO CHI MINH 4 Day trip to Cu Chi 5 Transfer Ho Chi Minh / Cat Tien 6 & 7 Cat Tien 8 Transfer Cat Tien / Cai Be 9 & 10 Cai Be 11 Transfer Cai Be / Vinh Long or Binh Island 12 Vinh Long or Binh Island 13 Day trip to Sa Dec 14 Bus transfer Vinh Long / Can Tho 15 & 16 Can Tho 17 Transfer Can Tho / Chau Doc 18 & 19 Chau Doc 20 Transfer Chau Doc / Ha Tien 21 & 22 Ha Tien 23 Boat transfer to PHU QUOC 24, 25 & 26 PHU QUOC 27 Flight to Paris

Actually, we’re on a rhythm of 1 transfer day and 2 visit days, which doesn’t fully satisfy us. That’s why we’re wondering: Is it possible to stay in one accommodation for visits to Cai Be, Binh Island, and Vinh Long (including our day trip to Sa Dec)? Do you see any other ways to adjust the itinerary? Any oversights? We also still need to look into the transfer details. Thanks for your tips! fg

bonjours à tous habituée à ko samui en thailande j'aimerai changer et trouver un hôtel à échelle humaine en bord de plage avec piscine au vietnam qui serait en mesure de me recommander quelque chose Trés important je souhaite qu'il y ai un village (superette, marché, restaurant) tout prés à pieds

merci d'avance

Bonjour, nous partons le 2 mars pour 3 semaines au Vietnam, pourriez vous svp me dire si ce circuit est une bonne option ? Sachant que nous avons prévu 2 vols intérieurs , HCM Hanoï et Da Nang HCM , le reste en bus ou en train Merci d’avance

2Bordeaux HCM 3HCM 4HCM Can Tho 5Can Tho 6Can Tho HCM 7HCM Hanoi 8Hanoi 9Hanoi Sapa 10Sapa 11Sapa 12Sapa Hanoi 13Hanoi Baie Along 14Baie Along 15Baie Along 16Ninh Binh 17Ninh Hue 18Hue hoi An 19Hoi An 20Hoi An Da Nang 21Vol Da Nang HCM 22Retour Bordeaux

Bonjour,

Notre périple en Asie va nous emmener jusqu'à Con Dao mi-avril 2020. Nous avons vu que c'était un archipel d'îles. Est-il possible de trouver des bateaux pour se balader entre ces îles ? Quelle est la durée idéale pour y séjourner ? Nous hésitons entre 2 ou 3 jours pleins... Merci à tous !!

Bonjour,

nous partons à 2 du 27 janvier (arrivée Hanoï le 28) au 24 février (départ le soir de HCMV). Nous avons du temps, pas un gros budget et l'envie de voir un max de choses sans forcément être dans le troupeau. Mais on n'a plus 20 ans donc on recherche un peu de confort :-))) : plutôt homestay que hostel, trains couchettes en mode confort, minibus limousine , bus/minibus privés. Voici ce qu'on a prévu : pouvez-vous me donner votre avis sur le circuit ? On a encore quelques questions sur le transport entre les différents lieux donc si vous avez des suggestions ;-)

Hanoï 2 jrs Pagode des Parfums depuis Hanoï en bus 1 jr puis retour sur Cat Ba (? je sèche sur le transport) ou sur Hanoi Baie de Lan Ha via Cat Bà : croisière 2 jrs Nin Binh en bus depuis Cat Bà (grottes de Trang An/ parc de Cuc Phuong) : 2 jrs Phong Na en prenant un train de nuit pour Dong Hoï (ou Hué??) puis le bus : 2 jrs Hué : 2 jrs Hoï Han en bus via le col des nuages : 2 jrs Kom Tu : 2 jrs de trek -> nous n'iront pas dans le Nord compte tenu de la période alors nous avons envie de découvrir les villages des ethnies des hauts plateaux du centre Littoral de Nha Trang : : pas encore fixés, petit séjour balnéaire mais si possible sans trop de béton et de touriste (on pense aller à Dai Lanh) 2 jrs Ile de la baleine 2 jrs pour plonger Puis trajet jusqu'au Delta du Mekong : ? pas encore fixés sur le mode de transport Ile d'An Binh puis Can Tho pour rayonner depuis ces 2 points : 3 jrs HCMV : 2 jrs puis départ

Voilà voilà ... on a tellement lu de guides, forums, .... qu'on ne sait plus où on en est ;-) donc si vous pouviez nous donner votre avis! Merci d'avance

Bonjour,

De retour du Laos avec un vol sur Saïgon il me restera 3 ,4 ou 5 jours pour faire un tour dans le delta du Mékong . ( Aller retour sur Saïgon ) J'aimerais m'arrêter dans les lieux que vous pensez intéressants et parcourir, de- ci , de-là quand c'est possible, la campagne à vélo, loger si possible chez l'habitant ( "maison d'hôtes" homestays.) voir des marchés etc......Si vous avez un itinéraire à me suggérer des lieux à ne pas manquer et des adresses de homestays j'attends vos conseils. PS: J'utiliserai les transports en commun, bus et taxis...

Bonjour,

après presque 30 ans de voyages en Asie, je vais enfin découvrir le Vietnam en couple puis en solo au mois de Février. Je vous soumets donc mon ébauche d'itinéraire puis des questions suivront J1 : arrivée à Hanoi à 16 h J2 et J3 : Hanoi J4 : Baie d Halong J5 TRajet Baie Halong / tam coc j6 Tam coc + train de nuit pour hué J7 Hué J8 hué J9 Hué/ hoi an par la route ??? J 10 à J 18 Hoi an puis séjour plage pour moi, mon compagnon retourne en France à J14 J19 retour sur Hanoi J 20 Hanoi, retour en France

Je désire absolument faire un séjour balneaire et comme je serai seule pendant ce séjour, je ne souhaite pas être isolée sur une ile , donc l'idée d'être proche d'activités me plait.

Ma 1er question concerne le J5, peut on rejoindre facilement Tam coc depuis la baie d'Halong ? Est ce que c'est faisable en voiture privée, et combien de temps prend le trajet ? Je n'ai aucune idée des distances et surtout de la rapidité des transports. D'autre part, comme je vais rester pas mal de temps sur Hoi an, j'aimerai découvrir la région en sortant un peu des sentiers.

Voilà pour l'instant

Merci pour votre aide. M.

Bonjour, je suis en train de faire le planning pour notre voyage du Delta du Mekong en janvier2020. J'ai déjà pu trouver la première partie, c'est à dire le nord et Hanoi puis Phu Quoc. Nous rentrons donc de Phu Quoc le 3 Janvier et nous voulons faire de Ha Tien, en bus à Rach Gia, puis en speedboat sur le canal jusqu'à Ca Mau, monter vers Soc Trang en bus ou si cela existe en canalboat, vers Can Tho, puis Vinh Long -marché flottant de Cai Be, Ben Tre pour finir à Ho Chi Minh 2-3 jours. Nous ne parlons pas le vietnamien, mais anglais et aurons un Translator comme petite aide. Qui peut nous donner des adresses et infos pour avoir un maximum de belles choses à voir? Merci pour vos infos

Bonjour,

Un petit retour sur notre séjour à Cat Ba.

Nous avons pris un trajet depuis Hanoï pour 220 kilo Dong/p incluant un premier bus confortable, on nous donne 50cl d'eau et un petit sachet de gâteaux. Une pause est prévue en cours de route où l'on a accès à de la restauration rapide. Ensuite on quitte le bus pour un ferry et sur l'île on reprend un autre bus qui nous dépose devant l'hôtel que l'on souhaite.

Nous avions choisi le full moon party hotel, à 250kD/nuit la chambre double. WC bouchés et karaoké jusqu'à une heure avancée, petit dej inclus (une rondelle de tomate, 1 petit morceau de pastèque, 1 oeuf, et du pain de mie). Après cette nuit merveilleuse ;-p nous avons fuit à Ben Beo au dolphin backpacker hôtel 120 kD/nuit la chambre double petit déjeuner inclus (banh mi avec 2 oeufs+café), la famille est très gentille.

Nous avons fait l'excursion qu'ils proposent à la journée 9h/17h pour 300kD/p. Tour en bateau dans la baie de Lan Ha, kayak avec passage dans des grottes, repas dans le bateau, plongeons/nage vers une petite plage, environ 2 h à monkey island pour gravir le sommet et/ou profiter de la plage et se baigner et retour. Nous avons adoré et trouvé le rapport qualité/prix imbattable.

On a bien aimé le resto Quan Cat Ba au numéro 195 rue 1/4

De Ben Beo nous avons pris le ferry pour Viet Haï 50kD/aller/p, comme nous avons passé la nuit sur place inutile de s'acquitter des 80kD/p pour la baie de Lan Ha. A Viet Haï nous avons loué des vélos pour 2 jours et 2 personnes pour 150kD. Nous avons dormi au rutilant Khanh Ngoc 300D. Beaucoup de touristes à Viet Haï qui font escale avec leur croisière de plusieurs jours. On peut pénétrer dans le parc national pour 80kD. Nous avons été impressionnés par la quantité de papillons, des gros, des petits, différentes couleurs.

Nous ne sommes pas venus à Cat Ba pour faire la fête et sommes parvenus à trouver un coin tranquille à 15min à pied du centre de Cat Ba ville ;)

Bonjour à tous, Nous sommes partis en 2017 faire l'ouest américain, avec beaucoup de vos conseils et indications. Vous nous avez bien aidé. En 2018, nous avons fait le Vietnam du nord… Quel régal. Et voila qu'en 2020 nous avons envie de faire le Vietnam du Sud. Nous partons 15 jours par nos propres moyens , bien sur. Nous allons certainement avoir besoin de vos lumières. Nous partons en Mars 2020... Je pense que la saison est assez propice ? En attendant je vais dévorer vos carnets de voyage et revenir vers vous. Merci beaucoup de votre expérience.

Nous serons sur l’Iles de Phu Quoc au début de Janvier 2020. Nous aimerions relaxer près de la mer pour plus ou moins deux semaines. Avez vous des suggestions d’hotel D’appart. air BnB ou n’importe quoi qui est charmant, près de la mer.

Hello. In 1996, we crossed Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi by motorbike—Minsk bikes we bought in Saigon. I haven’t been back since, and it seems like a lot has changed.

- We’re heading to the south (well, the north and center) with the family in July-August (3 people).

- Is the road network more developed now? Back then, there was only National Route 1 from south to north. I’m thinking of renting a car this time (no motorbike with the family—though in ’96, they had a Jawa sidecar for sale, and we hesitated… maybe it’s for the best).

- Is Halong Bay really something to avoid because of overtourism? Even back then, it was pretty crowded. Is there a less touristy alternative?

- We’ll be traveling from Hanoi down to Danang (the only city we didn’t stop in back in ’96). Even though it’s a bit overhyped in a Chinese-tourist kind of way (from what I’ve read), we’re only going for the beach—pure relaxation for 7 days. The beaches are stunning, and I know the South China Sea is warm like coffee.

- Then, we’ll visit Hoi An, where I stopped in ’96. It was already popular with backpackers back then, but no glowing boats or all the touristy fuss!

- After that, Hue, where I have great memories—it’s a beautiful city.

- And also the nature around Ninh Binh, followed by 2-3 days in Hanoi.

That’s the plan. I’d love to hear any tips to avoid mass tourism, and if anyone’s done this before: - Is it possible to rent a car in Danang and drop it off in Hanoi?

Thanks, and long live the Nam! !

Hi there,

I’m currently in Hoi An—I hadn’t set foot here for 8 years. The city has already changed a lot, with lots of construction, and even in the old town, along one side of the riverbank, there are huge residential buildings going up that take away some of the charm of this place. But the worst part is the overtourism—it’s impossible to walk across the famous bridge in the middle of the canal in the evening because it’s so packed with people. There’s also a new trend: massage parlors have opened in the old town and around the city. I was shocked—people call out to you or even grab your arm on the sidewalk, and it’s everywhere. Bangkok and Phuket might start shaking—Hanoi’s the same way.

Anyway, let’s talk about the dual pricing specifically for non-Vietnamese tourists. We went to a restaurant near our hotel last night, and they gave us an English menu—okay, fine! But I noticed the table next to us, where Vietnamese tourists had a different menu. Weird! I asked to see the same menu as my neighbors, but the waitress refused, saying it was in Vietnamese and we wouldn’t understand. I insisted, and she finally agreed. Surprise!!! The prices on the two menus were different, with the English one up to 50% more expensive. I asked why, and she got flustered, telling me to just order from the Vietnamese menu, which I translated with my phone to see the local prices. I mentioned this to the hotel this morning, and the receptionist told me to go to restaurants where prices are displayed at the entrance to avoid getting ripped off. I just bought fresh bread this morning, and it was the same thing—the little loaf costs 4000 dong for Vietnamese people and 5000 dong for non-Vietnamese. It’s not a huge difference, but this way of doing things isn’t right. At supermarkets like VinMart+, prices are displayed, so there’s no surprise or dual pricing there.

Hi, We’ve planned a week in the delta, but sometimes I wonder if that’s not too much… We’ll be there in early February, and the idea is to take a taxi straight from Saigon Airport to Ben Tre. I’m counting on 3 nights to recover and adjust after the long trip. Then I was thinking of Sadec, Can Tho, Chau Doc, Ha Tien, and back to Saigon for 3 nights before a flight to Hoi An. We’ve got 6 weeks total, so we have a bit of time. After reading different travel stories, the destinations in the delta seem a bit repetitive—I keep seeing the same excursions. On the other hand, I also think having time is a chance to get to know the local life a little better. My question really comes down to this: for those of you who travel at a relaxed pace, do you have any tips? I’ve heard the floating markets aren’t that interesting anymore. Also, motorbikes aren’t our thing. Thanks

DANANG A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.

Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?

Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?

What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.

The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.

HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.

WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.

For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.

Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.

Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).

WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.

For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).

At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.

WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.

THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.

MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.

CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.

To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!

Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.

Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.

Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).

When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.