2 weeks in the Cyclades
FR

Translated into English.

MA Mariepaule73 Veteran ·
Hi Muriel,

You're right, Mount Zeus is accessible from Filoti, but it’s not the easiest route, especially because of the elevation gain. We reached it starting from the Agia Marina chapel, and we didn’t regret it because the elevation gain is less than 400 m. On our site (https://brigittefrancois.jimdofree.com), you can see the view from the summit. Looking forward to the rest!

Marie Paule
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Thanks Marie-Paule for this info—it’ll be useful for others (or for us if we go back 😎). If I understood the map correctly, in this case it’s a round-trip, not a loop. I saw you also went to Amorgos and Santorini. Funny how some of your photos look just like mine, while others are totally different. Thanks for following along; since not many people are participating, I’m feeling a little lonely 😉.
BL Blancond Regular ·
Hi Muriel, The western islands (Folegandros, Milos, and Sifnos) are also really interesting and very different from each other. Loving the start of your trip on Naxos with those charming little villages. We found Apiranthos a bit dead when we passed through in the morning on the way to the eastern beaches, but still nice. We’ve got the hike you did planned for our next trip at the end of August. For Mount Zas, I can confirm that the climb from the chapel is totally doable, even if it feels like you’ll never get there at the end. Can’t wait to hear the rest! Jacques
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Thanks for following; since not many people are participating, I feel a bit lonely 😉.

Anyway, I'm here! Actually, I realize it's better to post travel journals in February... As travelers, once the good weather arrives, everyone takes off!!
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
I know you’ve felt that loneliness during your Australian travel journal too 😏. You’re probably right about the time off—I’ll wait for winter next time to write it up 😏. I also think some destinations spark more lively conversations than others. Either way, thanks to all the readers (whether you speak up or not 😉).
BL Blancond Regular ·
True, those of us used to African travel journals can feel a bit lonely on other destinations. Back in 2020, I started a travel journal about the Cyclades but eventually gave up—it was a year when almost no one was active on the forum, and for good reason… Jacques
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
That’s exactly it. I’ll admit, though, that keeping a travel journal is fun for me too—it helps me remember the good times... and forces me to sort through my photos! 😉
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
Yeah, luckily there’s a selfish pleasure in it, Muriel 😄. When we’re lucky, 15 people chime in and 5 say goodbye! But there are way more who just watch without ever saying a word 😔. The lurkers, the shy ones, the "consumers"—or even all three at once. But for me, VF is like life: the quality of our close connections matters way more than the quantity 😄. See you soon for the next part
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Wednesday 05/28: This morning, we hit the road again from Apeiranthos heading towards Apollonas, all the way north. We make a quick stop along the way to photograph one of the many churches lost in the middle of nowhere:



Before leaving, I looked into the possibility of a hike starting from Koronos, but they all go towards the sea (so downhill on the way there) and mention "lots of steps" at the start, which means climbing them on the way back (I’m really not a fan of steps when hiking! 😕)... let’s see if there’s an alternative... How about Fotodis Monastery? That’s when I realize (thanks to photos and comments from Marie-Paule and Jacques) that we actually saw the starting point for Mount Zas since we parked in the small lot in front of Agia Marina church! Except, not having looked into it too much, I thought it was another access point for the same loop that starts in Filoti... oh well, no big regrets—our days were still packed 😉.

We take the path on the other side of the road, right across from the church. It’s drivable, but we walk (we won’t run into anyone anyway, neither on foot nor by car). The climb is gentle and not too long. There are tons of grasshoppers here:



The monastery appears (backlit, so not great for photos). It looks more like a fortress 🤪. In the distance, you can see the islands of Donoussa and Amorgos (in the haze).

At this hour, it’s closed (I think it’s open from 11 AM to 2 PM), so we just walk around it:







Back to the parking lot and thus to the church (Agia Marina, then 😉), which is open. Quick aside on Greek churches: there are so many of them, often in the most unlikely places, and they’re always well-maintained, no matter their size—both inside and out (for the ones that are open, you’ll always find a broom, paper towels, cleaning products... 😏).



Off we go north again! Another stop at a (big this time) church (note how our car matches the Cyclades colors 😏).



Then it’s downhill towards the sea. Thankfully, there isn’t too much traffic because the road is often overrun by broom bushes (?... not sure). Again, the views keep changing and are stunning.



MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Just before entering Apolonas, we turn left toward the kouros site—a marble statue about ten meters tall, dating from the 6th century BC and apparently abandoned there due to flaws:

Then we discover Apolonas, a charming little seaside resort, very peaceful (at least at this time of year).



Every bar/restaurant has its own color code—it’s so cute!







Unprepared as we are (well, yeah, we’re not exactly beach regulars! 😊), we didn’t bring towels or swimsuits 😇. Before grabbing an affogato at one of these cafés, we spend some time on a bench along the beach, soaking in the tranquility of the place. It’s the local grandmas’ swim meet-up time! (It’s hilarious—they’re all in black one-piece swimsuits with hats on their heads, chatting away in the water 😏!) Anyway, they’re definitely not cold-sensitive...

MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
But for me, package holidays are like life: the quality of the people around us matters way more than the quantity 😊.

Totally agree 😉
EL Elenitsa Veteran ·
Hi Muriel,

I’ve been following your travel journal—it’s really great! I live in Greece, so I don’t really need help planning a vacation here 😉 But your photos are absolutely stunning, and visiting the islands off-season is so nice!!

As for the well-maintained churches, that’s normal—the Church and the State aren’t separate in Greece, and the Church has A LOT of money. It’s one of the country’s biggest landowners.

Now, about the grandmas (and grandpas!) swimming—some do it year-round. Apparently, it keeps illnesses away and is great for rheumatism. Given the water temperature in winter, I think I’d rather have rheumatism, no thanks! 😏
MA Mariepaule73 Veteran ·
Hi Muriel,

I’m really enjoying reading your story and seeing your photos! It’s too bad we can’t like posts here!!! Who knows, the Cyclades are a dream for many, and you can return several times without ever seeing the same things! They’re so diverse, and everyone has their favorites. Voyage Forum was really missed after Covid—it’s such a great source of information and exchanges that travelers use to choose their destinations and plan their trips. Anyway, we’ve been traveling the world for about forty years (even if our site only covers trips since 2005), and we’re always happy to share our experience with those who want to make the most of it. Looking forward to the rest of your trip.

Marie Paule
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Elenitsa

Thanks for your kind message (and from a country expert, no less!).

As for well-maintained churches, it’s normal—the Church and State aren’t separate in Greece, and the Church has A LOT of money. It’s one of the country’s biggest landowners.

I didn’t know that… but it makes sense now. And yes, the islands off-season are amazing! We’ve always loved our stays and trips in Greece (that’s why we keep coming back 😎), but this one was extra special, I think.
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Marie-Paule,

I took a look at your site. We don’t travel by camper van, but any experience is worth having and drawing ideas from 😉.

you can go back several times and never see the same things! They’re also so diverse, and everyone has their favorites.

Actually, it was our first time there… but I don’t think it’ll be the last 😎.
RO Rouquine38 Globetrotter ·
I know you’ve felt that loneliness during your Australian travel journal 😏. You’re probably right about the holidays (next time, I’ll wait for winter to write 😏). I also think that depending on the destination, discussions can be more or less lively. Either way, thanks to the readers (whether they speak up or not 😉).

Hi Muriel, +1 on your journal—yeah, it’s tough to keep up... when the good weather arrives, I come out of hibernation 😄 Plus, right now, I’m not getting notifications for the threads I follow 😢

In the meantime, the white and blue of the Cyclades is stunning. It’s true that gray weather makes everything feel so dull 😞 I haven’t been to the Cyclades except for Santorini, which I loved, but there were way too many people in the villages—so that cooled me off a bit ☺️
BL Blancond Regular ·
Good evening Muriel, Your story is still so nice! I didn’t know about this big monastery. About the hikes starting from Koronos, especially the one going down to Lionas, I can confirm that the round trip is really long. At least, that’s what I imagine since we only did the one-way downhill, which was already quite long, and we were too lazy to walk back. So we asked the Delfinaki taverna, where we ate, if they could drive us back to Koronos. That could’ve worked for you! Jacques
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hi Isabelle, I see you're swamped with all the travel journals to keep up with 😏. For notifications, I don’t always get them either (I end up thinking, "It’s been ages since there was a new post in this journal..." And when I check, I’m 3 pages behind!).
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
we asked the Delfinaki tavern where we ate if they could take us back to Koronos.

Oh yeah Jacques, that could be a good solution... one we didn't think of! 😇

Thursday 29/05: After the north, the south! It was Herodotos' travel journal that made me want to discover this route. He described a stunning mountain road... and it really is. Unfortunately, the photos don't do justice to the beauty of the landscapes. So, we headed to Kalantos beach and the "Cheimaros tower." While the road (marked as secondary) starts off quite narrow, it then becomes wide and in very good condition. It's true that the views are magnificent all along the way, and I want to stop every 5 minutes! 😎









The tarmac ends abruptly at the tower (which, despite being indicated from the start, isn’t anything special—especially since you can’t go inside or even get close, as the area is fenced off) and turns into a dirt track.

The track is in good condition, at least at the start, but... A first glance at the tires tells us they’ve clearly got the same mileage as the car (100,000 km), a second look in the trunk reveals there’s absolutely nothing in case of a flat tire (yes, we should’ve checked when we picked up the car—didn’t think of it!), and a third look at our phones shows little to no signal. Playing it safe, we decide to turn back. We’ll never know if Kalantos beach was worth the detour (though photos suggest it was).

As a result, we get back to Filoti fairly early. There’s still time for a short hike: why not the one to the Byzantine monasteries starting from Halki, just a few km from Filoti? Marked as about 7 km, 2h10, it seems perfect. 7 km maybe... but we ended up doing over 11! How’s that even possible? Still don’t know 😏 We park in the large lot at the entrance of Halki and start the loop near the village. Every now and then, there’s a variant (out-and-back) that lets you get a closer look at a church, like here at Agios Giorgios Diassoritis:

...but they’re all closed 🏴‍☠️. We walk past olive groves,

And arrive at Rachidiotissa church:

MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
And that's where we ended up walking a bit more than planned (but definitely not 4 km): 1) The path to Moni isn't signposted (the one that *is* signposted is the loop that brings you back to Halki) 2) It's a trail, whereas up until then the path had been quite wide 3) It's blocked by a fence, which does open but you have to look closely to see it 4) ... we weren't paying enough attention! 😇

So off we went on a loop that brought us back to Rachidiotissa church! And there, we took a closer look 😏 I found the climb pretty boring: the path isn't very clear in general, then you go up through the forest. It's good for the heat but you don't have any views and you keep wondering when it's going to end. It ends when you come out onto the road, opposite Panagia Drosiani. That one's open and it's stunning. Two little grannies at the entrance sell embroidered fabrics that seem to be handmade (apparently that's Moni's specialty).



The lady inside tells us we can take photos but without flash:



The climb's over... well, not really, it starts again up to Moni!

Finally, all that's left is to go back down! The descent is in full sun but it offers some lovely views:

(in the distance you can see the blue dome of Kaloxylos church, a pretty village we'll be passing through).

During the descent, we end up doing a few more unplanned hundred meters at a five-way intersection... A little aside about hiking trail markings: overall, it's well done—each trail has a number (this one was 4 or 4a for variations) and regularly, you'll find a little "4" sign up high or red dots on the ground, usually. Except sometimes you see red dots every 20 meters when you're on a straight path and there's no risk of getting lost, and other times (quite often, actually), at intersections... nothing! The marking is usually a few dozen meters further on, but sometimes it's much farther before you realize you're on the right path... or not! We pass through the village of Kaloxylos before heading back to Halki.

The heat plus all those extra kilometers meant we didn't have the energy to explore Halki. Since this village is less than 3 km from Filoti, we'll save it for another day...

Tonight, we've booked a table at Rotonda restaurant, known for its views and sunsets (well, tonight the sun's a bit hazy) but it's still nice, and the food's pretty good. Cheers! 😉

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