Je démarre la préparation d'un voyage en Patagonie que nous projetons de faire en novembre/décembre prochain. Je n'ai pas encore consulté tout ce qui est disponible sur le forum (je vais le faire dans les jours qui suivent !), mais j'aimerais quand même déjà avoir votre avis sur la trame d'itinéraire que nous envisageons.
BA > vol intérieur pour Trelew : de là : location voiture > boucle : descente sur la côte Est (Valdes-Camarones-Deseado-San Julian-Rio Gallegos) et retour sur la côte ouest (Calafate-Chalten-Puerto Moreno-Esquel-Trelew)
Deuxième question : dans cet itinéraire, nous zaperions Ushuaia et la Terre de feu. Qu'en pensez-vous : est-ce une très grosse bêtise ou bien n'est ce pas grave finalement ?
Si vous avez des alternatives ou suggestions, je vous remercie déjà mille fois pour tout conseil !
Je commence d'abord par ta seconde question parce que je viens juste de poster une réponse sur le sujet:
Comme le dit Madikéra, les avis sont toujours partagés... et les raisons pas forcément toujours objectives...🤪
Déjà, une lapalissade: il faut que toi tu aies envie d'y aller, et non que tu y ailles parce que Untel ou Unetelle a aimé l'endroit, parce que tu penses que c'est utile (?) ou, comme l'insinuent certains, "parce qu'il faut y avoir été". Car c'est quand même très au sud...
Alors je peux te donner une des raisons pour lesquelles j'aime beaucoup Ushuaia et la Terre de Feu: je suis attirée par les coins retirés, un peu extrêmes, et donc j'ai toujours eu envie d'aller à la pointe sud ou presque de l'Amérique du Sud, comme de celle de l'Amérique du Nord (à venir 😉), etc. C'est pour ça par exemple que je suis descendue à Caleta Tortel, au Chili.
Ensuite, passer à Ushuaia le temps d'une journée ou d'une nuit n'a pas grand intérêt et c'est malheureusement ce que font 90% des gens qui ensuite en donnent des commentaires on ne peut plus négatifs. Il faut s'y poser, regarder passer les nuages 🙂, tester les quatre saisons en une journée, laisser son regard errer des heures sur le canal de Beagle, subir le vent (mais là, pas besoin d'aller aussi bas, en Patagonie c'est largement suffisant 😉). Donc on y est restés une semaine. Plutôt que de te détailler nos journées, je te mets le lien de mon site où tu auras en plus les photos. On a fait une boucle Ushuaia - Ushuaia en berline de location. Les pages qui concernent ta question sont en fin de voyage (plus une brève au début):
Pour terminer je dirais qu'en plus c'est une jolie petite ville nichée dans un endroit superbe!!
Ensuite, concernant ta première question: au cas où tu n'irais pas à Ushuaia, pourquoi descendre jusqu'à Rio Gallegos? C'est d'un sinistre absolu! Autant couper par la Ruta 9 pour rejoindre l'ouest (mais pas la côte ouest, hein, attention! 😉 😎), ça t'économiserait un paquet de kilomètres. La piste est de ripio, je ne l'ai pas prise mais regarde ce lien:
Grand merci Pascale pour ta réponse ! Entre-temps j'ai un peu pioché des infos à gauche et à droite et je nous ai concocté un premier projet d'itinéraire (ne comprenant pas Ushuaia finalement). L'idée serait de louer un véhicule aller/retour à Trelew.
Que pensez-vous de ce projet d'itinéraire ? Est-ce qu'il tient la route ? SVP, faites moi part de toutes vos critiques ou commentaires.
Jour 01 - 28/10 Arrivée Buenos Aires
Jour 02 - 29/10 Buenos Aires
Jour 03 - 30/10 Buenos Aires > Trelew (avion)
Jour 04 - 31/10 Peninsule valdes
Jour 05 - 01/11 Peninsule Valdes
Jour 06 - 02/11 Puerto Madryn > Comodoro rivadavia (500 km)
Jour 07 - 03/11 Comodoro rivadavia > Puerto deseado
Jour 08 - 04/11 Puerto deseado > Puerto San Julian
Jour 09 - 05/11 Puerto San Julian > Puerto Natales
Jour 10 - 06/11 Puerto Natales
Jour 11 - 07/11 Puerto Natales > Torres del Paine (80 km)
Jour 12 - 08/11 Torres del Paine
Jour 13 - 09/11 Torres del paine > Cerro Castillo (90 km)
Jour 14 - 10/11 Cerro Castillo > El Calafate (300 km)
Jour 15 - 11/11 El Calafate
Jour 16 - 12/11 El calafate
Jour 17 - 13/11 El Calafate > El Chalten (220 km)
Jour 18 - 14/11 El Chalten
Jour 19 - 15/11 El Chalten
Jour 20 - 16/11 El Chalten
Jour 21 - 17/11 El Chalten > Bajo Caracoles (450 km)
Jour 22 - 18/11 Bajo Caracoles > Perito Moreno (220 km)
Jour 23 - 19/11 Perito Moreno > Puerto Tranquilo - Chili (220 km)
Jour 24 - 20/11 Puerto Tranquilo > Puerto Aisen - Chili (280 km)
Jour 25 - 21/11 Puerto Aisen > Puerto Cisnes - Chili (180 km)
Jour 26 - 22/11 Puerto Cisnes > Futaleufu - Chili (280 km)
Jour 27 - 23/11 Fataleufu > Esquel
Jour 28 - 24/11 Esquel > Trelew
Jour 29 - 25/11 Trelew > Buenos Aires (avion)
Jour 30 - 26/11 Buenos Aires > retour
Grand merci à tous pour votre aide, ce forum est super !
Je vais déjà te donner mon avis sur ce que je connais et donc je pars de Puerto Deseado:
Dommage de ne pas y faire une étape d'une journée pour aller voir les pingouins. Soit la sortie de deux heures et demie soit celle de plusieurs heures sur l'île des gorfous sauteurs. On garde un très bon souvenir de cet endroit:
Et cette journée supplémentaire tu pourrais la gagner le 6/11 à Puerto Natales, qui n'est en fait que la base arrière de Torres del Paine. Tu arrives à PN, tu visites le village, tu dors et le lendemain matin tu pars pour le parc 🙂.
Le 9/11 oublie de dormir à Cerro Castillo, il n'y a rien qu'un poste-frontière au milieu de nulle part:
Ce que font la plupart des gens, c'est de retourner dormir à Puerto Natales. On avait laissé nos affaires à l'hostal Corrillos, qui a un local fermé justement pour ça, et on était repartis de là pour El Calafate.
(a fait une heure que je recherche un carnet de voyage très bien fait et qui m'avait bien aidée et ouf! je viens enfin de le retrouver, c'est celui de Nancy:
A Bajo Caracoles tu as vu qu'il n'y a pas trop le choix de l'hébergement 😉.
Le 19/11 tu comptes faire le tour du lago Argentino pour rejoindre Puerto Tranquilo à partir de Perito Moreno? Attention quand même, c'est une petite piste, vertigineuse par endroits, mais bon, on est bien passés par là sans problèmes. Il faut juste que tu aies un peu l'habitude de conduire sur les pistes.
La Ruta 7 est la Carretera austral, une piste pleine de nids-de-poules, donc tu ne peux aller vite. Je n'ai pas été jusqu'à Puerto Cisnes, je ne connais pas du tout Futaleufu, mais je n'ai pas mes cartes ici et je me demande s'il est simple de passer de Futaleufu à Esquel?
Voilà... J'espère que d'autres voyageurs se manifesteront pour t'en dire plus sur les autres points de ton itinéraire.
Merci beaucoup Pascale ! Je vais tenir compte de tes conseils et lire bien attentivement l'intéressant carnet de voyage de Nancy.
Pour le trajet Fataleufu > Esquel, un autre voyageur qui y est déjà passé me confirme que c'est bien possible (un tronçon de piste en bon état relie les deux routes).
En attendant de fignoler encore un peu l'itinéraire (tout autre conseil super bienvenu !), je vais maintenant me mettre à la recherche de nos billets d'avion et d'un loueur de voiture.
J'abonderais dans le sens de ce qui a été dit par Kashtin en citant Salama Moussa poète égyptien : "Si la certitude est plus apaisante, le doute est plus noble". Mes propos ne relèveront donc pas non plus de la certitude.
1) Possédez vous vos billets d'avion Europe / Argentine ? En ce qui nous concerne, pour un trajet Paris Buenos Aires avec Air France, nous avions réservé au mois de mai pour un voyage entre mi novembre et mi décembre; je n'ai pas eu le sentiment que c'était superflu.
2) Concernant la traversée Esquel Trelew, avez vous calculé la distance à parcourir ? Le trajet me semble un peu long .
Ayant renoncé à ce genre de traversée et tout autre déplacement Est Ouest d'envergure, nous avions privilégié un itinéraire, essentiellement Nord Sud, Aluminé Esquel au départ de Bariloche, (600 kms à vol d'oiseau) mais 3000 kms tout de même au compteur entre la prise et la restitution du véhicule 3 semaines plus tard.
Attention donc à bien évaluer les distances à parcourir en une journée.
Pour les billets, je suis passée voir cette après-midi > pas de soucis de ce côté : visiblement il y a encore plein de possibilité;
Pour Esquel > Trelew, je pense que tu as raison : il faut sans doute compter deux jours.
Nous hésitons encore entre l'option boucle tout en voiture (l'itinéraire que nous avons imaginé fait de l'ordre de 4.500 km) ou un voyage impliquant davantage l'avion. Pas facile, on planchera là dessus encore ce week-end !
Nous hésitons encore entre l'option boucle tout en voiture (l'itinéraire que nous avons imaginé fait de l'ordre de 4.500 km)
Tu es sûre que tu ne te trompes pas? Ça me semble plus près des 3000 (ce qui est déjà pas mal) que des 4500, du moins d'après Google Maps. Pour ta boucle l'avion ne me semble pas plus pratique. Ce sera de toute façon plus cher, avec des risques de rester coincés ici ou là soit à cause des cendres de tel volcan, ou d'une grève, ou autre chose.
Et la voiture te donne une liberté que tu n'auras pas autrement.
A Torres del Paine il ne faut pas oublier de réserver dans les refuges...
Bien qu'en dehors du sujet; une petite précision à propos de nos expériences en matière de change en fin de séjour.
1er séjour en 2010 : change pesos argentins > euros dans une banque de Buenos Aires : pas de problème
2ème séjour en 2012 : nous pensions pouvoir faire la même chose à l'aéroport international de Buenos Aires avant notre retour; ceci nous a été impossible.
Nous n'avons pas pensé sur le moment à proposer pesos argentins > dollars US
Cela nous est arrivé, de là à en faire une généralité ....
Salut Emilie (je plaisante... 😎 Je ne m'appelle pas non plus Nathalie 😉),
Non je ne pense pas me tromper (j'ai vérifié sur google). N'oublie pas que nous partons (et revenons) de Trelew.
J'avais fait le calcul à partir de Trelew sur Maps, mais j'ai dû me tromper 😊.
Petite question encore : à part les refuges de Torres des Paine, y a-t-il d'autres endroits où il est impératif de réserver ?
Moi j'aurais réservé:
– à BsAs, mais tout dépend où tu vas. Si jamais c'était à La Querencia alors oui, il serait impératif de réserver.
– à Puerto Natales, vu que c'est la base arrière de TDP et qu'il y a du monde! Et si tu veux trouver un endroit où on peut te garder tes affaires pendant que tu seras au parc.
– à El Chaltén, beaucoup de randonneurs aussi et ce n'est qu'un village.
Hi everyone! I’m heading to Colombia in January 2026 and have a few questions. In Salento, which is better to do—Cocora Valley or Carbonera Valley? After that, I want to fly from Medellín to Rincón del Mar. Is there an airport in Tolú? I can’t find any info. Thanks in advance, and *buen viajé* to all! Kristian
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá.
30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate.
01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva.
02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá.
03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento.
04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby?
05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones?
06/12: Flight to Medellín.
07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses?
08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé.
09/12: Return to Medellín.
10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park.
11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance.
12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think?
13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?).
14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao.
15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time.
16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach.
17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
It's decided—2027 will be Brazil, in the summer (unless you advise against it 😕). From what I’ve read, the weather’s okay, even if it’s a bit chilly for swimming. We’re going, as always, as a group of four, with our teens. 🙂
We’d be looking at a solid two weeks, at least 14 days on the ground. I’m planning way ahead to nail down an itinerary and book our flight tickets (the prices I’m seeing already are freaking me out…).
From my research, I’ve come across some classic routes: Rio/Iguazu/Paraty/Ilha Grande.
Roughly: 4 days in Rio, 2 in Iguazu, 2 in Paraty, and 3 on Ilha Verde. That’d leave us one more stop on the trip.
Since we like to end with a "chill" stop for the kids,
My questions:
- Is Ilha Verde worth it this time of year? I’ve read that swimming might not be an option—water’s too cold… So not ideal for a chill/relaxing destination?
- How should we round out the trip in the South? São Paulo? Another stop along the Costa Verde?
- Wouldn’t it make more sense to head up to the Northeast, where it’s warmer, like Salvador de Bahia?
But Salvador raises other questions:
- Are there flights from Iguazu to Salvador?
- And for the return to France, would we have to connect through Rio or São Paulo from Salvador?
- Any suggestions for places to stay around Salvador?
Thanks for your input—I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go along. 😉
Hi there, we’ve decided to head to Brazil at the end of March for 2.5 weeks with our 13-year-old son. From what I’ve gathered from some research, Rio seems like a great destination at this time of year, and I’m thinking around 4-5 days to explore it—does that sound right to you? Copacabana, Ipanema, Sugarloaf Mountain, Christ the Redeemer, maybe a favela tour, or any other ideas?
How’s the best way to get around locally? I’ve heard about Bonito or Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande—what do you think of those? Fernando de Noronha for snorkeling or even diving? Is Recife a good option at this time of year?
If you’ve got any suggestions, we’re all ears—it’s for our 50th birthdays! :-) Thanks so much for your help and tips. See you soon.
Hi there, I’m looking for recent info on a boat trip with sleeping accommodations from Belém to Santarém. I don’t want a "luxury cruise for wealthy tourists"—just a bed with a minimum of comfort seems great to me🙂. I didn’t find any up-to-date details with Amazon Star. Do you have any companies, guides, or prices for this route to recommend?
I’d love to hear tips and feedback on this trip, especially since I’m traveling solo. I’d like to get a sense of what to expect and ensure some basic safety with transportation.
Thanks.
Hi everyone,
We’re planning 40 days in Uruguay and Argentina in February and March, trying to avoid as much rain as possible.
We’re thinking of starting in Buenos Aires, then heading to Bariloche, and from there flying to Córdoba, Mendoza, or Salta. Maybe by bus or renting a car to explore each region.
Do you have any suggestions or tips for us? We love picturesque, historic cities and landscapes. As seasoned travelers, we’re used to planning our trips ourselves.
Thanks in advance!
We’ve planned our road trip in Chile, and the only thing left is to book the TABSA ferry from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams.
Problem: the ferry that leaves Punta Arenas at 1 AM isn’t available for booking, no matter the day or month. All the other departures can be booked, though.
On top of that, Tabsa isn’t responding to any messages.
We’re planning to explore Peru’s main highlights and were wondering if anyone could share insights on the quality and comfort of overnight buses. If so, which bus company should we trust?
Hi,
My wife and I are heading to Brazil from November 6th to December 2nd. We’ll be stopping in São Paulo, Paraty, Ilha Grande, Rio, and Salvador de Bahia.
Could you recommend some nice, non-luxury places to stay in each of these spots?
Also, any suggestions for places to visit would be great.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Marc
Hi there.
I already posted a message asking for advice about our upcoming trip to Chile.
Details: Getting around by bus or train.
Starting from Valparaiso, heading north, passing through cities and places to visit, then returning to Santiago via a different route.
Avoid the beaches...
Thanks
Hello,
my wife and I will be in Cusco for a week in March 2027.
I’d like to organize the visit to the site on our own, combining the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.
We’d leave Cusco on Day 1 to arrive at the site in the morning, then stay in Aguas Calientes or Ollantaytambo, and on Day 2 return to Cusco while visiting the Sacred Valley.
Is this doable?
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hello,
We’re spending 3 weeks in Rio between February 20 and March 15, 2027, to visit our son and daughter-in-law. We’re thinking of one or two "escapes" from Rio—3-day trips to get away from the city (so not too far, max 3–4 hours by car or bus). We’re all ears for suggestions! We love beautiful nature and authentic experiences, not so much the touristy spots... even though those spots are often in beautiful places, we’d rather avoid them.
Thanks for your insights!
Catherine
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip with my partner (no kids this time—thanks, Grandma!) for two weeks to celebrate her 40th birthday. I’ve been thinking about Chile. We’re looking at leaving around September 18, 2027, starting in the south and returning in early April.
Here’s what I had in mind:
8 nights in a van in the Lake District and the start of the Carretera Austral (up to the Chaitén area). We’re set to arrive in Puerto Montt around 2:00 PM. We don’t want to go too far south since we’re planning to explore the heart of Patagonia (Chile and Argentina) with the kids when they’re older. The idea is to spend 3 nights discovering the lakes (up to Cochamó) and 3 nights in Pumalín Park. I’ve also added two transition nights.
7 nights in the Atacama to experience another side of Chile (San Pedro), taking a domestic flight from Puerto Montt to Calama in the early afternoon. We’ll depart for France in the early evening from Santiago.
IMPORTANT NOTICE for those planning to take a bus to another city, state, or destination from Salvador!
Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address!
The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).
A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro.
Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.
Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.
Tropical greetings from Salvador,
@ivanbahiaguide
Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷
Hello,
We’re thinking of spending 1 month in Chile, maybe doing a loop?
From 12/23 to 01/22.
What are the must-see sights, given we’re more interested in the country’s cultural side than the beaches?
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to southern Chile in November. Here's our tentative itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Santiago, then a flight the next day to Balmaceda where we'll pick up a rental car to reach Coyhaique.
Day 3: Walk in the Coyhaique National Reserve, then continue to Puerto Chacabuco. Return to Coyhaique for the second night.
Day 4: Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo for a hike in the national park. Continue to Puerto Tranquilo and stay there for 3 nights.
Day 5: Boat tour on Laguna San Rafael.
Day 6: Day trip to Monte San Valentin Glacier.
Day 7: Excursion to the Marble Chapels, then drive to Puerto Guadal. We'll stay there for 3 nights.
Day 8: Walk along Lago Carrera and return to Puerto Guadal.
Day 9: Rio Baker Valley and, if possible, a glacier excursion.
Day 10: Drive to Cochrane and hike in Tamango National Reserve. We'll stay 2 nights in Cochrane.
Day 11: Walk in the Chacabuco Valley.
Day 12: Drive to Caleta Tortel. We'll stay there for 2 nights.
Day 13: Cruise in the Rio Baker delta.
Day 14: Return to Cochrane.
Day 15: Return to Balmaceda in two stages.
Day 16: Continue the return journey.
Day 17: Return the rental car and head back to Santiago.
After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.
What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days?
Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations.
martine
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule?
After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help!
Martin
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me.
What do you think?
What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Patagonia for three weeks in November, starting from Coyhaique in Chile.
We won’t have a car, and I’m struggling to find information about transportation options for a few parts of the itinerary we’d like to do:
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions!
Thomas
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
