Tout d'abord un énorme merci à Ericarole, Vinnylove, voyageur08, grisemote, blancon, Francky4, miesele, bluequark, Pierre77N, vieux campeur, calali....(désolée si j'oublie certain d'entre vous!!), vos recits de voyage ainsi que vos nombreux posts sont une mine d'or! et quel bohneur de partager vos aventures qui nous confortent à 100% dans le choix de notre prochaine destination!
Dur dur de prévoir un itinéraire lorsqu'on a l'habitude de voyager où le vent (et surtout les bons conseils!) nous mènent!
Nous sommes deux "routards" en 4X4 avec un ti-budget qui privilégions la "vie sauvage, les beaux paysages et l'aventure" au confort de l'hébergement!
Voici donc notre projet (un mix de nos souhaits et de la proposition de Tourmaline):
Lundi 6 Juillet: Arrivée Windhoek à 18h30, contact agence Tourmaline/Pension Moni (si quelqu'un a un bon plan pas cher à Windhek, nous sommes preneurs...)
Mardi 7 Juillet: Courses puis direction Sesriem, coucher de soleil sur Elim dune/ NWR Sesriem
Mercredi 8 juillet: Sesriem (Sossusvlei et dead vlei)/ NWR Sesriem(un peu cher, n'existe-t-il pas un camp à l'exterieur du parc moins onéreux pour cette 2ème nuit?)
Jeudi 9 juillet: Randonnée dans le Naukluft puis direction Solitaire/ Gecko Camp
Vendredi 10 juillet: Walwis Bay par sandwich Harbourg Pas trop galère à faire sans guide?/ Walwis? (but where?)
Samedi 11 juillet: Swakopmund (parapente ou Sandboard)/ Pension Rapmund
Dimanche 12 juillet: Bonne journée voiture: Cape cross, Torra bay, warmquelle/ Ongongo Camping
Lundi 13: Purros/ Oreness camp
Mardi 14: Epupa falls?
Mercredi 15: opuwo/ Opuwo Country Lodge
Là c'est le flou! Peut-on tout faire? Dans quel sens? Peut-on faire la boucle? Vos posts semblent tous confirmer qu'il s'agit d'une région super et ça nous tente beaucoup?
Jeudi 16: Kamanjab / Lodge d'Hobatere à zapper si la boucle Purros/Epupa/ opuwo nécessite un jour de plus
Vendredi 17: Etosha, visite de la reserve /NWR Okaukuejo C'est ici qu'on se retrouvera Siclo4!!
Samedi 18: Etosha, visite de la reserve /NWR Okaukuejo (encore! pour voir les zanimaux la nuit...)
Dimanche 19: Etosha, visite de la reserve /NWR Namutoni
Lundi 20: Rundu / Kaisosi River Lodge à "zapper" pour vinnylove...pourquoi pas ?
Mardi 21: Bagani, visite du parc de Mahango/ Ngepi camp
Mercredi 22: Shawake, Mokoro puis retour au / Ngepi camp
Jeudi 23: Kasane /Kubu Lodge Un plan moins cher à Kasane?
Vendredi 24: Kasane, visite des chutes victoria /Kubu Lodge
Samedi 25: Kasane, Boat cruise sur la rivière Chobe /Kubu Lodge
Dimanche 26: Chobe / Ihaha
Lundi 27: Chobe / Tchinga
Mardi 28: Chobe / Savuti
Mercredi 29: Moremi / Khwai
Jeudi 30: Moremi / Xakanaka
Vendredi 31: Moremi / Third bridge
La traversée des deux parcs demande une certaine autonomie. Pour ceux qui l'ont entrepris, combien de carburant aviez-vous prévu? trouve-t-on de l'eau dans les camps? La conduite est-elle périlleuse, y-a-t-il des zones à éviter? tous les conseils sont bons à prendre....merci😉
Samedi 1er: Maun par south gate /Audi Camp
Dimanche 2: Maun: excursion guidée dans le sud-est du delta de l’Okavango en pirogue et à pied / Audi Camp où trouver le bon plan dont tu parles Franky4?
Lundi 3 au mercredi 5: On se garde quelques jours de répis pour des modifs éventuelles et surtout pour ne pas rater l'avion s'il arrive un pépin!
Jeudi 6: Départ pour Joburg à 7h45
Voili voilou! Toutes vos suggestions sont les bienvenues! les réservations pour les parcs sont lancées...nous attendons vos conseils avisés!(et surtout les ti-plans hébergement pas cher, help!!)
Baie dankie!
Oui, je m'en rends bien compte...est-ce faisable en 4 jours (je zappe Kamanjab...)...ou faut-il faire un choix, soit Purros /Opuwo soit Opuwo/ Epupa/Opuwo...qu'avez-vous préféré les amis?
Merci Grisemote!
Perso je ne connais pas Epupa! (mais il paraît que c'est super aussi!)
Si tu veux aller voir des villages Himbas tu peux aller à Opuwo, ou alors si tu vas à Epupa, mais sinon aucun intérêt (à mon avis) d'aller à Opuwo, que souhaites-tu y faire?
L'idée serait de provoquer quelques rencontres "fortuites" avec des habitants, himbas ou non, en faisant la boucle "Purros/ étape(s)intermédiaire (à définir)/Opuwo"!
Aurais-tu une idée pour cette étape intermédiaire? Orupembe ou bien Otjitanda (si on enchaine avec Epupa) ou encore Etanga (avant de redescendre sur Opuwo)?
Aïe, aïe, aïe : Purros ou Epupa? La question est difficile : je l'ai posée ici et personne n'a été capable de me répondre si ce n'est pour me dire " ben euh, c'est très différent et cela dépend des goûts" mais personne n'a su choisir.
Personnellement, je choisirais, je crois, la boucle Sesfontein- Purros -Orumpebe_ Kokooativi - Opuwo. Mais peut être est-ce précisément parce que je ne l'ai pas fait... De mémoire, il faut trois jours et de préférence être à deux voitures. Pour Etanga c'est plus dur, je crois..mais les spécialistes corrigeront.
Sinon je dirais, en espérant ne fâcher personne, qu'outre à Kamanjap, tu peux aussi gagner du temps en supprimant Nauflukt. C'est très sympa, c'est certain mais cela n'a pas le coté extraordinaire (au sens premier du terme) de Koakoland. Bien sur, c'est avis tout personnel.
Enfin, la journée du 12 est quand même très chargée.
Pour l'étape intermédiaire, il n'y a rien à Orupembe, juste 3 huttes et un point d'eau pour les bêtes. Il vaudrait mieux s'arrêter au camping de "outjo" (si mes souvenirs sont bons). Tu comptes 1 journée pour aller à Purros et en profiter, puis 1 journée pour aller à Outjo et 1 journée pour finir jusqu'à Opuwo et profiter un peu!
Bonjour,
Pour Sandwich Harbour, pour moi il faut absolument un guide, à moins d'avoir une expérience très très solide de la conduite en 4x4.
Dans le Kaokoland, il faudra effectivement choisir entre Purros et Epupa ( si c'est Epupa, restez 2 nuits sur place ) ; quant aux rencontres fortuites avec les himbas, à moins d'un miracle, il ne faut pas rêver ; on ne peut pas du tout communiquer avec eux, donc découvrir leur mode de vie en étant introduit dans un village pendant quelques heures sans guide, c'est plus que difficile. Par contre, que ce soit à Epupa ou à Opuwo, il est facile de trouver des guides qui vous emmèneront dans un village ; c'est un peu "fabriqué" c'est vrai, mais au moins c'est cadré, et cela se fait en accord avec les habitants.
Bons préparatifs.
Jeudi 9 juillet: Randonnée dans le Naukluft puis direction Solitaire/ Gecko Camp
Contrairement à Grisemote, je trouve ce coin très beau. Gecko Camp est un endroit extraordinaire !
Vendredi 10 juillet: Walwis Bay par sandwich Harbourg Pas trop galère à faire sans guide?/ Walwis? (but where?)
Vous comptez passer par le désert entre Solitaire et Sandwich Harbour ? Si c’est votre idée, c’est un truc qui se fait avec un guide, une grosse préparation et en plusieurs jours !
Samedi 11 juillet: Swakopmund (parapente ou Sandboard)/ Pension Rapmund
Pourquoi une nuit à Walvis et une à Swakop ? Si vous avez 2 jours dans le coin, posez-vous 2 nuits, non ?
Lundi 13: Purros/ Oreness camp
Mardi 14: Epupa falls?
Mercredi 15: opuwo/ Opuwo Country Lodge
Là c'est le flou! Peut-on tout faire? Dans quel sens? Peut-on faire la boucle? Vos posts semblent tous confirmer qu'il s'agit d'une région super et ça nous tente beaucoup?
Effectivement, Purros ou Epupa en 3 jours, il faut choisir !
Jeudi 16: Kamanjab / Lodge d'Hobatere à zapper si la boucle Purros/Epupa/ opuwo nécessite un jour de plus
Pas extraordinaire, mais entre Opuwo et Okaukuejo, la route est longue…
Vendredi 17: Etosha, visite de la reserve / NWR Okaukuejo C'est ici qu'on se retrouvera Siclo4!!
Samedi 18: Etosha, visite de la reserve / NWR Okaukuejo (encore! pour voir les zanimaux la nuit...)
Dimanche 19: Etosha, visite de la reserve / NWR Namutoni
Pour moi, trois nuits à Etosha, c’est beaucoup. Possibilité de gagner une nuit ici et la recaser au Kaokoland.
Lundi 20: Rundu / Kaisosi River Lodge à "zapper" pour vinnylove...pourquoi pas ?
Effectivement, ça peut se zapper, mais encore une fois, Namutoni - Bagani, la route est longue (et monotone).
Après, je ne connais pas…
Bonjour Grisemote,
et ce carnet de voyage au Canada, il se fait attendre....vous n'avez quand même pas perdu vos bonnes habitudes de nous concocter un récit de vacances agrémenté de superbes photos ?
Merci pour vos précisions à tous les deux pour sandwich harbour..., nous irons donc "bat carré" tout d'abord à Walwis puis nous aviserons par la suite (histoire de ventiler un peu d'incertitude dans toute cette organisation!!)
Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà enchainé la découverte de Chobe et Moremi? Suis open pour connaître vos impressions!! et vos conseils expérimentés de "jeunes" briscards de la savane!! J'ai bien compris que vadrouiller dans le coin de riverfront pour Chobe permettait de voir une grande concentration de vie sauvage...sinon vos coups de coeur? et pour Moremi?
Merci encore pour votre aide, j'adore ce forum!
A plus les p'tits loups!
l'excursion Sandwich harbour se fait avec un guide à moins d'être très très forrt en conduite 4x4 dans sable profond.
De plus faut connaitre le chemin, y'a pas de panneaux...
Pour la boucle puros epupa, tu peux faire les 2 mais il faut 5 jours par la piste via orupembe
comme l'a dit grisemote (dont le carnet canadien se fait attendre 😛 ) puros 1 jour, outjo 1 jour, puis epupa 1 jour, 1 jour sur place epupa, puis retour kamanjab par exemple
si non l'autre solution : tu vas à puros jour + nuit, le lendemain matin tu repasses par seisfontein puis tu files sur Opuwo et le 3 eme jour tu vas jusqu'à Epupa tu couches et tu repars le lendemain matin. tu gagnes ainsi 1 jour (que 4) mias que de km et de fatigue !...
Pour Rundu, je dis de zapper parce qu'il n'y a rien, vaut mieux pousser jusqu'à bagani ... enfin si possible car la route est longue
cela permet d'être de suite aux bonnes heures dans la réserve de mahango le lendemain matin
pour Chobe moremi, je te conseille bien sur le chobe nord extraordinaire 2 ou 3 jours, n'oublies pas la river cruise, une halte à Savuti 1 jour, puis moremi 3 jours, à maun une excursion mokoro vaut le coup aussi 1 jour complet sur place mini
je t'envoie en Mp l'adresse d'un carnet de voyage 😉
Voilà un voyage qui s'annonce fort sympathique !
Quelques petites remarques : Sandwich Harbour : il est INTERDIT (par la loi 🙂) d'aller à Sandwich Harbour tout seul. Il faut prendre une agence (je peux te donner le nom d'un guide privé très sympa). C'est cher, mais c'est génial ! Contrairement à un des messages, ça ne se fait pas en plusieurs jours, mais sur une journée sans problème Rundu : effectivement aucun intérêt, mais venant d'Etosha, vous ne partirez qu'en milieu de matinée, et donc vous ne pourrez pas atteindre Mahango dans la journée. L'étape n'apporte rien, mais est obligatoire Chobe : si vous voulez un peu réduire l'addition, Chobe Safari lodge sera moins cher que Kubu Chobe - Tchinga : Je me demande si c'est pas une fausse bonne idée. En hiver, il ne doit pas rester beaucoup d'animaux ! Ils sont tous remontés sur Chobe river Savuti & Moremi : sur 4 jours, le plein de votre 4x4 au départ de Kasane suffira.
Oui, il y a de l'eau dans les camps, mais non potable ! A l'entrée de Moremi / North Gate, il y a un petit "magasin" qui vend des bonbonnes si jamais vous étiez à sec, mais mieux vaut faire "le plein" à Kasane.
La conduite n'est pas du tout périlleuse, aucun problème... sauf dans Moremi où selon les saisons la piste North Gate / Xakanaxa passe par des bras d'eau qui peuvent s'avérer "rigolos" !
Pour la dernière nuit, restez à Xakanaxa au lieu de Third Bridge. La zone autour de Third Bridge est assez pauvre en animaux, et pour les safaris, il faut donc remonter sur ... Xakanaxa.
Ayant effectué une boucle de deux mois, un peu similaire, avec un camion 4x4, l'année dernière, je me permets de faire quelques commentaires suites aux discussions intéressantes ci-dessus:
Sandwich Harbour : voici, pour ceux qui parlent Anglais un lien intéressant http://www.bongariliitto.fi/matkakertomukset/Afrikka/Namibia/Namibia_2007-07_Hottola.pdf
orienté ornitho, ce lien donne de bonnes infos sur Walvis Bay et ses environs, pour ceux d'entres vous qui cherchent un endroit isolé où passer la nuit ( Pelican Point, Paaltjies) ...
un couple d'amis, est allé à Sandwich Harbour depuis Walvis, par la plage, avec permit (Walvis) avec le camion, en janvier (voir photos ci dessous et dans lien ci-dessus). C'est l'un de leurs meilleurs souvenirs de Namibie. C'est faisable, if faut simplement se renseigner et tenir compte des marées. J'y serai la semaine prochaine ! Pas question, à mon avis, de faire Solitaire- Walvis via Sandwich, sans 'monter' une petite expédition.
Depuis Seisfontein, il y à une piste (que nous n'avons pas faite - mais que je compte faire cette fois) qui file plein Ouest et remonte ensuite le long de la frontière avec le Skeleton Park. Il parait que c'est une alternative intéressante pour rejoindre Puros. Probablement trop long pour vous. A Puros, il semble intéressant de descendre la rivière vers le Canyon. En 2008, les lions étaient dans le canyon et ce serait de toute beauté. Dixit un Suisse rencontré sur place qui nous disais que la région de Puros était plus belle que le Marienfuss et Hartman à la frontière Nord avec l'Angola, but de ce voyage à Pâques. Voir post dans compagnon et/ou covoiturage.
Autre alternative intéressante, en 2008, nous avons remonté la rivière Hoarusib plutôt que de prendre la piste vers Orupembe. Sécure, mais isolé. Eléphants du désert, et rencontres fortuites avec Himbas. Attention de ne pas tenter de rejoindre la piste Orupembe ( très lente car abimée par pluies) - Opuwo en suivant la rivière Hoarusib jusqu'au bout. Il parait que cela ne passe pas depuis les inondations de l'hiver 2007-08. J'ôse à peine imaginer ce que ce sera l'été prochain, vu les pluies de cette année. Au tiers du trajet il faut bifurquer sur la gauche, et rejoindre par une piste facile une vallée parallèle, et ensuite suivre le lit de la rivière Chumib ( village Himba à la confluence de la piste et de Chumib). Avons vu 4x4 Nissan le faire ... donc faisable malgré sable parfois profond. Se renseigner au camp de Puros avant d'y aller sur niveau rivière. Trace GPS dispo si intéressé. (GPS utile). Quoiqu'il en soit, pour vous, ce sera Puros ou Epupa.Pas les deux .A moins de faire l'impasse sur le Botswana et/ou Mahango.
Etosha: deux jours devraient suffire
Nous avons aimé le camp de Chobe safari lodge à Kasane (sans doute moins cher qu'un lodge - à voir). Leur river cruise commence vers 16:00. A ne pas rater. Buffet du soir très correct.
Entre Savuti et Khwai, le community camp est une bonne alternative. Pas besoin d'aller jusqu'à Moremi pour payer la nuitée au Community Camp, vous aurez la visite souriante des responsables dans la soirée (cela évite une nuit de plus dans la réserve, ce qui pour nous en camion était fort cher - 150 Euro) . Juste avant le camp, il y a une possibilité de traverser la rivière (profond - mais faisable par 4x4) et d'éviter Moremi, en longeant lMoremi, si comme pour nous, le pont sur la rivière ( que nous n'aurions de toute façon pas pu franchir - max 7 T.) devait être en réparation et donc infranchissable.
Avons rejoint Savuti depuis Ihaha ( un de mes endroits préférés car sauvage) en un jour, ce qui nous a permis de nous reposer et 'tourner ' autour de Savuti une journée entière.
S'il vous reste du temps, après Maun, rentrez sur Windhoek via la Boteti river ( migration des zèbres et camp sympa) et/ou un must en Namibie à mes yeux la Deception valley dans le Central Kalahari. Sortie vers Ganzi par porte Sud-Ouest et stop au Grassland Safari Lodge/ camping . Acceuil chaleureux. Programme de réintégration de lions et de wild dog à la nature ( visite en Land ouvert !) . Contact avec San. Un havre de paix, loin des sentiers battus, après le Kalahari.
A ce propos, pour d'autres lecteurs éventuels, il y a un festival célèbre près de Ganzi, vers le 20 Août qui se déroule à D'Kar, le Kuru San Dance Festival. A creuser. Nous l'avons raté car les dates ont été modifiées sans que nous n'en soyons avertis. Bonne presse.
Pas grand chose à redire sur le périple annoncé, d'autant que je ne suis pas allé dans le Kaokoland.
Je souscris à la remarque te proposant de zapper l'étape nocturne à RUNDU : En partant tôt d'Etosha et en faisant un arrêt ravitaillement à Rundu, tu peux être dans l'apres midi à Bagani..une journée de gagnée
Kubu lodge fait aussi camp site de type terrain de camping... mais c'est moins cher que que les lodges....
La traversée des deux parcs demande une certaine autonomie. Pour ceux qui l'ont entrepris, combien de carburant aviez-vous prévu? trouve-t-on de l'eau dans les camps? La conduite est-elle périlleuse, y-a-t-il des zones à éviter?
Je ne suis resté que sur Ihaha et ses environs, donc mon avis ne vaut que pour là. Il y a des sanitaires avec des points d'eau (douche + evier ) (n'oubliez pas de fermer les portes en sortant sinon les babouins viennent tout saloper) mais je n'ai pas cherché à savoir si elle était potable, j'avais assez de réserve d'eau potable (on trouve facilement dans les supermarchés des bidons de 5 litres). En tous cas prenez des comprimés désinfectants du genre aquatabs au cas où.
Pour l'autonomie, la plupart des loueurs proposent des 4x4 avec doubles réservoirs. Cependant la capacité varie, renseignez vous bien.. A titre d'exemple j'avais un 4x4 moteur 2, 8 l Turbo diesel, 2 reservoirs 140 litres....autonomie guère au delà de 800 km...et oui cela tête !!!. Voyez avec le loueur pour avoir des jerricans si cela fait juste.
La conduite n'est pas "périlleuse" à Chobe mais les pistes sont très sableuses : donc vitesse de croisière très faible (d'autant plus que tu es là pour regarder les animaux) et malgré tout une conduite qui demande de l'attention. Quelques risques possibles d'ensablement sur les pistes auxilliaires les moins empruntées, dans les zones asséchées, là ou le sable est clair et très fins...
Bonjour et merci Pierre.
Malheureusement, n'ayant pas trouvé 'quelqu'un' avec qui y aller (voir mon post dans covoiturage), je me vois contraint, inutile de te dire que je suis déçu, d'annuller le projet.
Je n'avais pas envie de rester sur les grands axes, et Sandwich Harbour, Marienfluss/ Hartmann, me semblent trop 'engagés' que pour y aller seul. Un seul véhicule passe encore, on a des tél. sat. en cas de panne, mais seul en tant que personne physique ...malgré des amis sur place ... à Winhoek... ???? La roue de secour pèse plus de 100kgs. ... et ce n'est qu'un exemple ...
C'est une longue histoire, ... et ce sera donc partie remise en Juin ... Mais oui, j'enrage ...
salut,
je prépare un voyage de 3 semaines(juillet/août) avec ma fille de 11 ans. je "caresse" l'idée de faire sesfontein/purros par la piste dubis- amspoort-longer le skeleton coast puis retour sur sesfontein. est ce faisable seul ou faut il partir avec un autre 4*4? combien de temps prévoir, je compte passer la nuit à purros. de plus, combien de temps pour faire okaukuejo/sesfontein? 1 journée me semble possible mais au prix de (trop) longues heures de route.
merci à tous ceux que je lis depuis plusieurs jours et qui m'apportent pleins d'idées et me font déjà rêver!
Bonjour,
Le trajet me parait pas trop mal, j' en ai fait une bonne partie l an dernier et j'y retourne en mai pour un mois. Effectivement, un peu chargé dans le Kaokoland vu l'état des pistes, ça ne roule pas vite. J'ai fait Opuwo, c'est quand même la "capitale" himba avec nombreuses possibilités d'aller dans les villages et aussi Epupa où là encore de nombreux villages himbas et puis le camping au vert au bord du fleuve est un moment de bonheur après avoir bouffé la poussières de la piste.
Au niveau hébergement je suis étonné que tu parles d'un Oreness camp à Purros.
Par contre, au lieu de faire l' Opuwo Country Lodge (cher et très, même trop classe, mais c'est vrai que j'ai aprécié le confort !) j'ai aussi testé l'Oreness Camp tenu par un "vrai" marseillais sympa.
A Etosha, ok pour Okaukuejo, ne serait ce que pour le point d'eau, un réel bonheur de voir les animaux se relayer la nuit pour boire mais plutot que d'aller à Namutoni (rien de particulier) j'ai campé à côté pour un peu moins cher juste à l'entrée du parc à Onguma Safari Camp (on a même wc et douche sur chaque emplacement, le must ! ci joint photo)
Voilà, pas de probleme pour d'autres infos avant que je parte ou sinon en juin avec des nouvelles fraiches.
JC
Vos posts nous interressent vivement car nous partons mi juillet - mi aout faire quasi le meme tour Namibie-Botswana.
Nous louons un 4x4 avec tente (ou bushcamper).
Notre grande question est de savoir si on réserve tous nos camping ou uniquement ceux des endroits les plus prisés (Sesriem, Etosha, Okavango...)
On a peur d'etre stressés entre deux étapes pour arriver à l'endroit réservé et de ne pas profiter comme on pourrait le faire en étant plus "free".
Merci pour vos réponses, on est vraiment dans le doute et on lit de tout.
Si vous partez cet été, alors Sesriem et Moremi / Savuti sont indispensables à réserver. Pour Etosha, il vaut mieux aussi. Mais dépêchez vous ! Et soyez tenaces, car à mon avis, vous n'aurez pas de places du premier coup quand vous allez faire vos demandes !
http://voyageur.over-blog.com
Bonjour,
Je viens de lire vos informations concernant la partie nord de la Namibie qui sont très intéressantes. Nous visiterons cette région l'été prochain (2010). Vous dîtes avoir une trace GPS pour le coin des rivières Hoarusib/Kaumib qui nous intéresserait beaucoup. Accepteriez-vous de nous en faire profiter ? Si Oui, comment fait-on pour récupérer une trace GPS (je suis relativement nul pour tous ces trucs-là) ?
A+ peut-être .....
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Mafate Randos
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!