Et c'est reparti pour un nouveau séjour en AFS (j'dirais pas le combientième pour ne pas passer aux yeux de certains pour un dingo).
Les pré-requis. Pas de camping, le moins de self-catering possible. Un 4x4 du genre Hilux. Arrivée et départ de PE. Septembre 2017.
Donc:
Arrivée PE (très tôt) et direction Mountain Zebra pour 3 nuits. Prévu un petit cheetah tracking.
Et les lions y sont où ? Les plus beaux coins ?
Camdeboo 2 jours avec nuits à Graff Reinet au Drodsty.
Karoo NP, 3 nuits dont au moins 2 dans L'afsaal Cottage si c'est possible.
Même question, les plus beaux coins et les lions y sont où ?
Die Hel pour 3 nuits...Fontein guest farm (le Kliphuis si possible)
On redescend vers la côte pour Knysna (à l'Undermilkwood) pour 2 nuits. y'aura bien quelques baleines!
On remonte vers Baviaanskloof via la Prince Alfred pass pour un stop d'une nuit à Uniondale car le parcours, à mon avis, entre Knysna et le centre de Baviaans peut être un peu ambitieux en une seule étape (?) si on veut profiter. Quid des gués dans Baviaans (sur mountain passes, devenu payant cela semble un poil chaud par moment ?).
Sederkloof dans Baviaans, c'est l'étape luxe pour 3 nuits.
Du Sederkloof on poursuivra vers Patensie (Ripple Hill) pour une nuit avant de rejoindre PE pour un vol vers 13h30.
Histoire de ne pas mourir idiot...
Avez-vous des conseils ou des suggestions sur ce parcours ?
PS:
Au fait, pour les amoureux du game drive...connectez-vous sur safari live...game drives en direct, matin et soir...en ce moment c'est leopards party quasiment tous les jours
Et c'est reparti pour un nouveau séjour en AFS (j'dirais pas le combientième pour ne pas passer aux yeux de certains pour un dingo).
Les pré-requis. Pas de camping, le moins de self-catering possible. Un 4x4 du genre Hilux. Arrivée et départ de PE. Septembre 2017.
Donc:
Arrivée PE (très tôt) et direction Mountain Zebra pour 3 nuits. Prévu un petit cheetah tracking.
Et les lions y sont où ? Les plus beaux coins ?
Les lions se tiennent au 3e virage apres le camp principal ... juste a côté des rhinos. Magnifique parc, promenez vous aussi sur les pistes 4x4 si elles sont ouvertes
Camdeboo 2 jours avec nuits à Graff Reinet au Drodsty.
Pourquoi pas Nieu Bethesda?
Karoo NP, 3 nuits dont au moins 2 dans L'afsaal Cottage si c'est possible.
Même question, les plus beaux coins et les lions y sont où ?
même chose pour les lions... Sauf que Sylvester s'est échapé et se trouve maintenant à Addo
On remonte vers Baviaanskloof via la Prince Alfred pass pour un stop d'une nuit à Uniondale car le parcours, à mon avis, entre Knysna et le centre de Baviaans peut être un peu ambitieux en une seule étape (?) si on veut profiter. Quid des gués dans Baviaans (sur mountain passes, devenu payant cela semble un poil chaud par moment ?).
Le Baviaans est tres sec actuellement et il n'y a pas de passage a gué, sauf à Smitskraal ou il y a toujours de l'eau
Et c'est reparti pour un nouveau séjour en AFS (j'dirais pas le combientième pour ne pas passer aux yeux de certains pour un dingo).
Non ne le dis pas ! ça pourrait en énerver certain !
Arrivée PE (très tôt) et direction Mountain Zebra pour 3 nuits. Prévu un petit cheetah tracking.
On va y passer aussi (aout) et essayer aussi le cheetah tracking, tu l'as déjà fait ?, faut il reserver longtemps en avance ?
D'ailleurs toi qui connait, entre sani lodge backpackers et Mountain Zebra, un jour n'est ce pas un peu court, sinon quelle étape ?
PS:
Au fait, pour les amoureux du game drive...connectez-vous sur safari live...game drives en direct, matin et soir...en ce moment c'est leopards party quasiment tous les jours
Pour le tracking ce sera mon premier cheetah...j'ai déjà eu l'occasion d'un wild dogs tracking.
Sur le site ils ne parlent pas de réservation préalable mais sur place la veille.
Du Sani jusqu'à Mont Zebra...8 heures de route. Connais pas bien cette route et pas vraiment d'avis pour une étape.
Pour se rendre de Underberg à Cradock il faut effectivement compter 8h de route.... Sans compter qu'il pourrait avoir des travaux dans le région de Queenstown, donc on peut facilement perdre 1h
Si vous avez le temps d'une étape, arrêtez vous à Maclear ou Rhodes et prenez quelques cols du Eastern Cape Highlands
Sur le site ils ne parlent pas de réservation préalable mais sur place la veille.
C'est pas ce que je lis :
All activity bookings are to be made through Mountain Zebra National Park's reception:......
All bookings to be confirmed at Reception before 18h00 on the previous day. Please report to Reception 15 minutes before departure time to sign indemnity form and to make payment.
Pour Regis : nous y serons le 11 aout, pourquoi la question vous y passer aussi en aout ?
D'après ce que je comprends c'est bien la veille qu'il faut faire la reservation (mais mon anglais ! 🤪)
Concernant le Karoo, est ce que vous croyez que ça "vaux le coup" d'essayer de caser 2 jours au Karoo NP au détriment d'un peu de cap, west coast np, ou de la garden route ?, ou est ce vraiment beaucoup de route !
En fait en regardant la carte et notre itinéraire prevu je crois que j'ai ma réponse, mais dites moi !
Pour Michel, je viens de suivre ton parcours, c'est très "pistes" et hors circuit classique on sent bien le connaisseur de l'Afrique du sud, bon voyage !
Pour les résas, je comprends comme toi Régis: c'est la confirmation qui doit être faite la veille, ce qui sous entend que la réservation a été faite auparavant.
Peut-être qu'il est tout de même possible de réserver à 18h ... mais ce n'est pas garanti!
Muriel
Voilà un itinéraire superbe et sans trop de hâte d'un site à l'autre, c'est plutôt rare sur VF.
Mountain Zebra est un endroit magnifique et loger dans l'ancien musée de Doornhoek un must. Avons fait une balade à la recherche des rhinos noirs mais avant l'introduction des lions. Il n'y avait pratiquement personne dans le parc (fin août) et avons réservé sur place notre virée (le soir pour le lendemain matin).
Baviaanskloof est aussi une superbe région, dommage de ne pas camper à Rooihoek, il y a une sensation de "début du monde", le camping est le seul moyen de séjourner dans la méga réserve, par contre les logements ne manquent pas avant d'y entrer dans des paysages de toute beauté (+ jolis qu'Uniondale). Il semble possible de rejoindre la zone Ouest de la vallée au départ de Knysna dans la journée. La piste ne pose pas de problème pour un baroudeur, elle devient plus délicate après le poste des rangers, de même pour les gués, mais elle demande pas mal de temps si on est un peu musard. Ce fut notre coup de cœur en 2 015 ! Pas encore de lions dans ce sanctuaire mais des buffles, des rhinos....... d'invisibles léopards comme partout et surtout des cynos !
En principe, pas de carburant au-delà de Willowmore ou Uniondale.
Die Hel est aussi un très bien, la piste est parfois impressionnante (moins que les images de Mountain Passes, cependant) en raison de la très forte pente, du ravin et de l'étroitesse (2ème coup de coeur). Il faut deux bonnes heures + les arrêts pour rejoindre la vallée au départ de Swartberg Pass. Aucun problème en octobre pour la traversée des rivières mais ça peut changer d'une année sur l'autre.
Le parc de Camdeboo ne m'a pas laissé un souvenir impérissable. Peut-être sera-t-il plus intéressant lorsqu'il sera relié à Mountain Zebra (c'était en projet lors de notre dernière visite), par contre une balade à Valley of Desolation et une rando vers Spandau Kop valent le déplacement, tout comme la ville, bien sûr !
Pour les amoureux des formations rocheuses insolites, il y a dans le coin Meiring'sPoort Pass et surtout Seweweekspass près de Calitzdorp (un ou deux bons restaus).
Connais pas Karoo NP, ce sera pour une prochaine ! Suis aussi un amoureux du Pays !
Merci pour tes remarques et conseils.
J'en tiendrai compte.
J'ai déjà traîné mes guêtres du côté de Calitzdorp. Tu as bien raison.
Effectivement, je ne campe pas...
A Mountain Zebra NP, Doornhoek, ferme du 19ème siècle avec deux corps de bâtiments, était un musée (visite en 1975), en fait, une vieille maison, pleine de charme avec le mobilier, les photos, la vaisselle de la famille qui vivait dans ce coin autrefois. Elle est, ensuite, devenue "Accommodation" , pour 6 personnes, et nous y avons logé plusieurs jours en 2 011, avec beaucoup de bonheur, presque comme à cette époque. Elle semble s'être modernisée depuis notre visite car les sanitaires étaient un peu vieillots et avoir perdu son nom ! Elle est à quelques km du camp dans un site magnifique.
MZNP est à mon avis l'un des plus jolis endroits du Pays et pourrait devenir un parc majeur si le projet de réunion avec Camdeboo se réalise (une centaine de km entre les deux). Jusque dans les années 80, on pouvait randonner librement dans le parc et un treck de 4/5 jours était possible dans les magnifiques montagnes qui occupent une grande partie du territoire. Aujourd'hui, après l'introduction de guépards, de rhinocéros noirs, de buffles et enfin de lions, tout cela est impossible sans un guide.
Bien cordialement.
Jacky.
Ah oui, je l'ai vu cette maison mais à deux ça fait un poil grand et cher 😊 J'ai pris le mountain cottage. J'ai beaucoup entendu de bien sur ce parc on verra cet été 🙂
Les paysages rencontrés entre Mountain Zebra NP et le Drakensberg sont magnifiques, surtout après Queenstown.
Nous avons circulé plusieurs fois (2 008, 2 011 et 2 016) dans ce secteur sans rencontrer de problème, y compris sur les pistes aux abords de la montagne: Cradock à Queenstown sur une belle route goudronnée puis vers Dordrecht, Rossouw, Barkly East où ça devient franchement très beau. Rhodes est un petit village plein de charme avec plusieurs guesthouses (on peut agréablement manger et boire un pot au Walkerbouts et dormir à Kinmel Farm en B&B, hébergement simple et breakfast gargantuesque, mais il faut prévenir) + possibilité de belles balades le long de la Bell River et un coup d'oeil à Tiffindel, station de ski, avec quelques virages très raides, largement à la hauteur de Die Hell avec de la neige en plus parfois. Une superbe piste remonte vers Naude'sNeck où il y a aussi de la neige en hiver. On rejoint ensuite la R56 avant Mount Flechter, ville sans charme et Mataliele, agglomération moderne avec de nombreux B&B ou Guesthouses. Ensuite, la R394 jusqu'à Swartberg et la R617 à nouveau asphaltée vers Underberg/Himville, là, tu es presque à Sani !
Pas de carburant entre Barkly East et Mount Flechter, y compris à Rhodes.
Je n'ai pas de temps de route à te donner car nous avons beaucoup flâné, la dernière fois, entre Rhodes et Mount Flechter (4 ou 5 heures de curiosité pour une centaine de km) mais en 2 011 nous avons roulé toute une journée pour rejoindre MZNP, après une brève virée dans le parc, et Kinmel à Rhodes, avec de nombreux stops toutefois, mais en passant par Elliot et Barkly East. Le premier itinéraire est plus sympa.
Belle réponse bien détaillée comme je les aime...mais plus pour Yal qui se posait des questions sur un trajet DRak / MZ...que pour moi.
Même si je prends bonne note pour une prochaine fois (le coin de Mataliele m'avait déjà fait de l'œil)
Merci
Michel
Pas moyen de trouver une guest house ou un hotel à Uniondale ou Willowmore la nuit du 23 au 24 septembre...
Il se passe quelque chose de spécial dans le coin à cette date ?
Aurais-tu une suggestion ? Je ne campe pas et j'aurais aimé séjourner dans une ville (petite certes) ou pas loin pour ne pas avoir à cuisiner.
Je voulais couper la route entre Knysna et mon autre point de chute (Sederkloof) pour profiter pleinement de la première partie de Baviaans...
Salut Michel, t'es devenu un vrai dingo de l'Afrique du Sud dis donc!!!!😇
Pour ma part, j'attaque mon 10e séjour dans moins de deux mois.
Pour le trajet Knysna / ouest du Bavianskloof, ça se fait très bien en une demie journée, qui plus est si tu as un 4x4. On l'a fait avec un corolla dans le sens inverse et c'était un peu galère dans la forêt avec les nombreux potholes mais en 4x4 c'est du beurre!
Bonjour.
Devenu ou encore dingo je ne saurais dire.
Ouest du Baviaans ? Mais jusqu'où dans le Baviaans ?
Ce n'est pas Knysna jusqu'aux portes du Baviaans qui m'inquiète mais la première partie, non pas par sa difficulté en soi (quoique) mais pour y avoir le temps...d'être cool...pour finir, "à son pépère" à mon point de chute, juste avant l'entrée de la partie "réserve naturelle" en en ayant profité.
Nous avons été jusqu'à Kamerkloof. Il semblerait que Sederkloof soit juste à côté.
Nous arrivions de Willowmore et sommes ressortis par Uniondale pour descendre par la R339 jusqu'à Knysna (Undermilkwood que tu m'avais conseillé). Nous avons perdu un peu de temps dans Diepwalle forest avec tous ses potholes et très gras par endroit (on s'est d'ailleurs embourbé avec la corolla) mais le coin est vraiment très beau.
De mémoire, à partir de Willowmore ou Uniondale, il faut compter environ 1h30 (soit env 80 km de pistes) tranquillement pour arriver à Kamerkloof et la piste est vraiment très belle et bien roulante.
Jette un coup d'oeil sur leur site www.kamerkloof.co.za/, il y a des cartes assez détaillées et les distances/temps des différents trajets.
Et tu n'as jamais pensé à faire une thérapie pour ton addiction sudaf????😛
Ah je t'envie, 😇 voilà un beau projet hédoniste. La quasi-certitude de ne pas voir les Big5. Hors saison touristique et il fera encore frais.
Qu'ajouter à ta route ? Je plussoie la suggestion de Nieu Bethesda, la Owl House c'est chouette.
Hogsback, mais peut-être trop à l'est pour toi ?
Toi qui aime les passes, avant d'arriver au Karoo NP, celui qui part de Beaufort West, vers le nord, et grimpe l'escarpement du Karoo.
Entre le Karoo NP et l'Enfer, un déjeuner au Paradis ? (Trois jours en enfer me semblent un peu long).
J'ai un traitement, mon docteur est en AFS donc je la soigne...en AFS !
Ne compte pas trop sur les sorciers sud-africains pour te désenvouter.
Bonjour,
Pour les big five c'est sûr...pas d'éléphants (à moins qu'ils aient discrètement migrés ?)
L'elusive léopard...les elusive lions...l'elusive rhino noir...Beaucoup d'elusive dans le lot.
Hogsback c'est pour une prochaine fois, sûrement en sortant du Lesotho.
3 jours en enfer se sont transformés en 2...Camdeboo me tente trop pour ne pas y passer 2 journées complètes.
Mais pour l'instant la Fontein farm se fait tirer l'oreille...si non je tenterais les emplacements de Cape Nature.
Je n'y ai pas déjeuné ni dîné -je campe, moi! 😉- mais j'y vais parfois pour le breakfast. Je pense qu'il seront ravis de vous servir s'ils sont avertis à l'avance. C'est rustique.
East and Southern Africa › South Africa · 25 replies
Alright, this time it's definite I'm heading to South Africa next October! Two weeks for a Kruger-Cape Town combo is short... but better than nothing Before…
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
We're now just 5 weeks away from our trip to South Africa 🙂 and *so* excited to explore (just a tiny bit of) this amazing country.
I need to buy some binoculars but have no idea which model to choose. I don’t really know what to look for (and I don’t want to spend too much).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some tips!
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
