Tout d'abord, une très belle année à tous, riche en voyages, en rencontres, en fraternité, en découvertes, en petits bonheurs quotidiens ...
Dans 3 mois nous sommes de retour en Namibie pour une boucle Damaraland / Kaokoland et le voyage est quasi bouclé (vu que j'ai tendance à m'y prendre des mois à l'avance 😊).
Je réfléchis donc déjà au voyage d'après, celui de mars / avril 2017. Initialement nous envisagions un circuit Lesotho / Swaziland / AFS ( Kruger, Blyde River Canyon) mais nous hésitons maintenant car nous aimerions retourner au Botswana pour faire le Panhandle et Moremi (que nous n'avons pas eu l'occasion de découvrir lors de notre voyage 2015). Du coup, on combinerait cela avec la bande de Caprivi.
J'envisage donc l'itinéraire suivant :
J1 - Arrivée à Kasane en début d'après midi (nuit à Kasane en lodge ou GH)
J2 - Katima Mulilo (nuit en lodge ou GH à Katima)
J3 et J4 - Mudumu, Susuwe et mamili si accessible - (nuit en camping à Mavunje campsite)
J5 et J6 - Mahango (nuit en camping à Ndhovu)
J7 -Etsha (nuit en camping à Guma Lagoon Camp)
J8 - Maun (nuit en lodge)
J9 - Moremi - Khwai (camping)
J10 et J11 - Moremi - Third bridge (camping)
J12 - Moremi (South gate)
J13 - Maun (lodge)
J14 et J15 - Okavango (lodge).
J'ai essayé de construire un itinéraire où nous ne passons pas toute la journée en voiture, J8 (Etsha / Maun) étant la plus grosse journée.
Connaissez-vous les campings de Mavunje ? et Ndhovu (j'aime bien l'idée de l'emplacement unique mais d'après T4A, l'accès peut-être inondé) ?
Pour Moremi j'hésite sur la répartition des nuits entre les campings. Changer ? rester les 4 nuits au même endroit ? faire 2 nuits Khwai, 2 nuits Third Birdge ?
Si c'est Susuwe qui t'intéresse pourquoi ne pas y loger ?
Peut-être 2 nuits Mavenju et 1 à Susuwe
Mahango se visite très vite, deux nuits c'est peut-être un peu long. Ou alors loger de l'autre côté de la frontière au Drotsky par exemple (magnifique Boat Cruise) et paysage très différent de Mahango.
Maun, difficile de trouver un beau lodge, le moins mauvais où nous ayons logé est l'Island Safari Lodge, mais rien d'impressionnant non plus.
Pour Moremi je conseillerais de faire systématiquement 2 nuits au même endroit (2x Kwhai, 2x Third bridge ). Et si tu pouvais rajouter une dernière nuit à South Gate (explication ci-dessous).
Une nuit à Maun avant de partir dans le delta ... vous allez vous ennuyer ferme (il n'y a rien à Maun), voir s'il n'est pas possible de faire South Gate - Maun (rendre le 4x4) et rejoindre le lodge. Ca dépend des horaires de prise en charge pour le lodge mais je crois que c'est plutôt vers 13h.
Voili voilou pour un voyage qui donne bien envie.
Sinon je ne sais pas si votre porte-monnaie le permet mais faire Moremi en camp privé c'est encore plus extraordinaire 😎
Assez sympathique oui, et totalement différent du programme avril 2016 😉
Si c'est Susuwe qui t'intéresse pourquoi ne pas y loger ?
Je pensais pouvoir y accéder depuis Mavunje. Cela ne me parait pas loin.
De plus j'ai lu qu'il construisait un lodge a côté de Nambwa campsite, du coup je me dit que la camping perd un peu de son intérêt.
Pour le camping, nous envisageons de tester la tente au sol, du coup j'ai essayé de construire l'itinéraire avec le plus souvent 2 nuits de suite dans le même camping.
Je sais qu'il y a un vaste et agité débat sur tente toit ou sol 🤪. L'année dernière nous étions en tente sur le toit donc pour 2017 nous envisageons ce changement.
Maun, difficile de trouver un beau lodge, le moins mauvais où nous ayons logé est l'Island Safari Lodge, mais rien d'impressionnant non plus.
Nous avions logé au Thamalakene River Lodge à Maun. Trop cher pour les prestations fournies.
Dans le Bradt j'ai repéré au sud de Maun, à environ 25 mn, Tshima Bush Camp. Le tarif pour la nuit est de 900 pulas pour 2. Venant d'Etsha, cela pourrait être une solution.
Pour Moremi je conseillerais de faire systématiquement 2 nuits au même endroit (2x Kwhai, 2x Third bridge). Et si tu pouvais rajouter une dernière nuit à South Gate (explication ci-dessous).
Oui, c'est une bonne idée. South Gate / Maun, c'est 2h15 selon T4A. Cela serait en effet largement jouable. D'autant que je crois qu'il y a plusieurs "prises en charge" par jour pour la navette lodge (en tout cas, c'était le cas pour le Pom Pom Camp où nous sommes allés en 2015).
Sinon je ne sais pas si votre porte-monnaie le permet mais faire Moremi en camp privé c'est encore plus extraordinaire 😎
M. Emma a pris goût aux pistes inondées (même si en avril, rien n'est certain de ce côté). Et puis, si on optait pour cette solution, il nous faudrait privatiser le safari (tu sais bien, c'est notre côté sauvage 😛) et du coup, cela risque de faire aussi cher qu'un lodge 🤪
il nous faudrait privatiser le safari (tu sais bien, c'est notre côté sauvage
pareil pour nous, on l'avait privatisé.
C'est pas pour ne pas conduire, ça ça ne me pose pas de problème mais le grand grand plus c'est de pouvoir avoir accès aux camps du Boma en les privatisant.
C'est extraordinaire d'être vraiment tout seuls à plus d'une 1/2 de 4x4 du prochain humain.
Pour nous ça vaut un lodge où tu es obligé de "cohabiter" avec tes congénères parfois un peu "prout prout" surtout dans ce genre d'établissement.
Tu as aussi la solution de trek à pied dans le delta à partir d'un camp de base ...
Oui tu peux aller à Susuwe à partir de ton camping (j'ai regardé, 36 kms, donc ok pour y passer une journée)
Tshima Bush Camp, je ne connais pas, tu nous diras 🙂
Et pourquoi ne pas aller passer une nuit ou deux sur le Zambèze à partir du Caprivi Houseboat Safari Lodge ? Les nuits seuls sous les étoiles sur une île isolés au milieu du fleuve sont inoubliables.
J3 et J4 - Mudumu, Susuwe et mamili si accessible - (nuit en camping à Mavunje campsite)
Je ne connais pas Mavunje, mais Rupara aux portes de Mamili est un des plus beaux endroits où nous avons dormi.
J5 et J6 - Mahango (nuit en camping à Ndhovu)
Je pense aussi que deux nuits font une de trop.
J7 -Etsha (nuit en camping à Guma Lagoon Camp)
Le principal attrait de Guma Lagoon serait d'aller faire un tour en Mokoro. Il se peut que le camp soit inaccessible en avril.
J9 - Moremi - Khwai (camping)
J'échang sans hésiter 3 barils de Khwaï North Gate contre un seul de Dijara Camp, moins cher et dont les emplacements peuvent participer au concours des plus beaux et des plus isolés les uns des autres. Bucket shower (eau froide fournie) et toilettes, c'est tout.
J10 et J11 - Moremi - Third bridge (camping)
Je n'ai jamais dormi à Third Bridge, mais Xomae l'opérateur ne privatise pas les campsites pour un véhicule et deux personnes à moins de payer follement cher. Du coup vous pouvez avoir des voisins sur le même emplacement. Je choisirais plutôt Xakanaxa qui est aussi une base pour aller faire un tour en bateau dans le delta.
J12 - Moremi (South gate)
Il faut soit arriver assez tôt, soit repartir assez tard, soit passer deux nuits pour avoir le temps d'explorer Black Pools. Nous en avons manqué un peu.
J13 - Maun (lodge)
Pour une nuit simple et sans prétention : Maun Lodge. Lapa/bar sympa, resto et chambres corrects, prix sympa.
J'ai essayé de construire un itinéraire où nous ne passons pas toute la journée en voiture, J8 (Etsha / Maun) étant la plus grosse journée.
L'étape dont tu parles, c'est de la rigolade ! 280 km de goudron, 2h30.
C'est en effet un belle idée. Je me souviens que l'un de vous l'a fait, je ne sais plus si c'est toi ou Max 😊
Je pense aussi que deux nuits font une de trop.
Alors, je me range à l'avis général et opte pour une nuit à Mahango et une nuit à Shakawe.
Le principal attrait de Guma Lagoon serait d'aller faire un tour en Mokoro.
Ça permet aussi de ne pas faire de trop grosse journée de route.
Si je supprime cette étape, je peux envisager faire Shakawe / Maun en une traite. Mais, est-il possible d'inclure dans cette journée Tsodilo Hills ?
J'échang sans hésiter 3 barils de Khwaï North Gate contre un seul de Dijara Camp,
En effet, si à chaque rond correspond un emplacement, ils sont bien isolés les uns des autres. 😎
Je n'ai jamais dormi à Third Bridge, mais Xomae l'opérateur ne privatise pas les campsites pour un véhicule et deux personnes à moins de payer follement cher.
C'est quoi horriblement cher 😮
De toute façon, au Botswana, tout est cher 😕 (ou presque)
Je choisirais plutôt Xakanaxa qui est aussi une base pour aller faire un tour en bateau dans le delta.
A Xakanaka, les emplacements m'ont l'air plus petits et les uns sur les autres. Me trompes-je ?
C'est en effet un belle idée. Je me souviens que l'un de vous l'a fait, je ne sais plus si c'est toi ou Max
Nous. Curt et Silke les proprios sont très sympa. Il faut prévoir une ne nuit avant dansun de leurs chalets car départ très tôt. Donc deux nuits mini à Katima Mulilo.
Alors, je me range à l'avis général et opte pour une nuit à Mahango et une nuit à Shakawe.
Ou deux à Shakawe et aucune à Guma Lagoon ?
Si je supprime cette étape, je peux envisager faire Shakawe / Maun en une traite.
Oui sans problème.
Mais, est-il possible d'inclure dans cette journée Tsodilo Hills ?
Là ça devient plus serré. Il y a un camp à Tsodilo Hills. Lors de notre visite il y a quelques années il était gratuit, je ne pense pas que ce soit toujours le cas !
En effet, si à chaque rond correspond un emplacement, ils sont bien isolés les uns des autres.
C'est ça. Pour moi une des parties les plus intéressantes de Moremi ce sont ces alentours de la Khwaï River... Qui ne sont pas dans Moremi ! En avril ça risque d'être très aquatique, mais vers 3rd Bridge / Xakanaxa aussi.
C'est quoi horriblement cher 😮
De toute façon, au Botswana, tout est cher 😕 (ou presque)
Je crois qu'il faut payer pour 6 pour être sûr que le camp soit exclusif. À vérifier. Mais rien n'est clair et l'opérateur semble faire un peu n'importe quoi.
A Xakanaka, les emplacements m'ont l'air plus petits et les uns sur les autres. Me trompes-je ?
oups j'ai du rater quelque chose, je ne connais pas ce camp 😊
Dans Moremi nous étions en camp privé mais le secteur de Third Bridge m'avait semblé plus intéressant niveau paysage et animaux, du coup j'aurais eu tendance à privilégier ce camp. Après pour les emplacements je en connais pas.
Dans Khwai secteur qui n'est pas dans Moremi on peut aussi voir beaucoup d'animaux, d'où l'intérêt de faire les 2 secteurs.
Oui 2 nuits à Shakawa 😛 ... vraiment joli comme coin.
Oui 2 nuits à Shakawa 😛 ... vraiment joli comme coin.
C'est aussi pour le plaisir d'en parler 😉 ..
A+
Ok. La référence du coin c'est le Drotsky's Cabin. Il est comment leur camping ?
J'étais assez tentée par aller à Tsodilo Hills.
Du coup je me disais que je pouvais faire une étape Mahango / Shakawe avec 1 nuit Drotsky's et :
- le lendemain Shakawe / Tsodilo / Guma Lagoon
- ou une 2ème nuit à Drotsky's avec un aller/retour Shakawe / Tsodilo / Shakawe sur la journée.
Pour Moremi, des carnets que j'ai lu pour certains le secteur de Khwai a été riche en faune, pour d'autres c'est Third Bridge. Le phénomène chançe et hasard. C'est pour ca qu'il faut faire les deux 😉
L'intérêt de Drotsky est d'aller en bateau sur le Panhadle pour voir les oiseaux... beaucoup d'oiseaux... ! ! !
Mais camper à Drotsky pour aller faire un aller/retour à Tsodillo ne présente aucun intérêt ... AMHA ;-)
Salut Franck,
Oui, à Drotsky's, c'est bien ce que je voulais dire et effectivement la balade sur le Panhandle est magnifique.
2 nuits à Drotsky's ou 1 à Tsodilo / 1 à Drotsky's (on avait bien aimé Tsodilo).
oups j'ai du rater quelque chose, je ne connais pas ce camp
Il a ouvert il y a environ un an. Basique mais très bien situé au bord de la rivière avec des bestioles qui se baladent (hyène, éléphants...). Pour moi, bien mieux que tous les camps de Moremi.
Dans Moremi nous étions en camp privé mais le secteur de Third Bridge m'avait semblé plus intéressant niveau paysage et animaux, du coup j'aurais eu tendance à privilégier ce camp. Après pour les emplacements je en connais pas.
Third Bridge et Xakanaxa sont proches l'un de l'autre et ça se passe beaucoup entre les deux. Le camp de Third Bridge ne m'a pas semblé extraordinaire (nous y avons pique niqué, pas dormi). Un camp privé, on en a vu un complètement isolé sur Dead Tree Island, ça avait l'air sympa. Mais ce n'est pas notre mode de voyage. 😉
Je m'interroge sur l'accessibilité de Nkasa Rupara (Mamili) en avril. Le Bradt indique qu'une grande partie du parc est inondé est temps normal, alors après la saison des pluies qu'est ce que cela doit être 😮
J'envisageais faire sur une journée : le matin à Nkasu Rupara et l'après midi à Mudumu, qu'en pensez-vous ?
que statistiquement avril dans labande de Caprivi c'est risqué niveau météo 😉
Et c'est vrai que c'est un coin qui peut-être mouilleux.
Même si ça n'est pas exactement dans le même coin j'avais abandonné l'idée du Tsumkwe et Khaudum pour les mêmes "risques" 😕.
Il faudrait une version sans trop de réservation et un plan B ...
Et c'est vrai que c'est un coin qui peut-être mouilleux.
J'aime penser qu'il y aura toujours quelques pistes accessibles dans les parcs (peut-être plus à Mudumu qu'à Mamili). C'est mon côté optimiste (ou naïve 😊)
Et puis, grâce à Savuti, l'eau et la boue, on sait ce que c'est maintenant 🤪
Si vraiment trop "mouilleux" (😛), il y aura toujours de quoi faire pas trop loin dans le coin (aller plus du côté de Rundu, Chobe, Panhandle).
Rundu : sans intérêt
Chobe : trop de monde
Panhandle : même problème que le Caprivi, s'il y a de l'eau Guma Lagoon est inaccessible.
Peut-être regarder plus côté Hwange au Zim ?
East and Southern Africa › South Africa · 25 replies
Alright, this time it's definite I'm heading to South Africa next October! Two weeks for a Kruger-Cape Town combo is short... but better than nothing Before…
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
We're now just 5 weeks away from our trip to South Africa 🙂 and *so* excited to explore (just a tiny bit of) this amazing country.
I need to buy some binoculars but have no idea which model to choose. I don’t really know what to look for (and I don’t want to spend too much).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some tips!
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy