j'aimerai savoir si des personnes ont déjà voyager en Turquie, peu importe le type de voyage (clé en main en hôtel, en indépendant...), et si oui qui à déjà vu un rituel ou un spectacle de derviches tourneurs? et si possible en avoir les commentaires, les ressentis... :-)
et au plus large d'entre vous: qui a déjà vu un spectacle de Derviches tourneurs en France ou en Europe?
car je travaille sur un dossier en ce moment sur les Derviches tourneurs. Je certifie respecter l'anonymat. ;-)
n'hésitez pas, je pense que ça peut être intéressant de faire partager les expériences! a bientôt! V.L 🙂
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
oui j'ai été voir ce spectacle à 2 reprises. Une fois dans un restaurant en Syrie (à Damas) mais il n'y avait que 2 danseurs et pas de musique live.
Pourtant j'avais trouvé ça magnifique.
Puis dernièrement je suis retournée à Istanbul où j'ai assisté à une représentation d'une heure dans une ancienne salle d'attente d'une gare.
C'était vraiment superbe. C'est très sobre et très épuré mais très beau.
Les "danseurs" étaient acoompagnés d'un orchestre qui joue une musique, elle aussi très sobre.
C'est bien plus qu'un spectacle d'ailleurs.
mile
Les grands coups de coeur sont des maladies incurables (Goethe)
merci beaucoup d'avoir répondu et fait partager tes expériences. (je me permets de tutoyer j'espère que ça ne vous dérange pas 🙂)
Oui c'est vrai tu as raison j'ai employé le mot rituel et le mot spectacle, et ce n'est pas vraiment un spectacle (comme tu le dit "bien plus qu'un spectacle!")
mais c'est un peu cette vision étriqué, qu'on les occidentaux, de ce rituel soufie des derviches tourneurs, (lapsus révélateur?)
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
Bonjour,
je suis allée les voir à Istamboul et j'ai été transportée. C'est très émouvant de les voir tourner sur eux mêmes si longtemps et à plusieurs reprises, on a envie de se joindre à eux. La musique est également très belle. Nous avons acheté un cd que mes enfants aiment écouter le soir avant de s'endormir. Une de mes amies les avait vu à Nice il y a quelques années.
Martine
J'ai eu la chance en 2003 d'assister à une cérémonie de derviches dans une mosquée du quartier de Fatih à Istanbul par l'intermédiaire d'une association culturelle turque "Les arts turcs".
Ce qui pour moi a été très émouvant c'est le fait d'avoir assister à une véritable cérémonie mystique qui n'était pas un spectacle mis en scène pour des touristes. Comme ce que l'on peut voir habituellement dans le quartier de Galata ou dans d'autres villes (comme par exemple les derviches de la citadelle du Caire).
A fatih, nous étions très peu d'européens (4 ou 5) dans la salle de la mosquée et par respect nous devions nous installer avec discrétion dans un espace réservé pour ne pas troubler les participants.
Durant la cérémonie, qui s'est déroulée en début de soirée, deux "sectes" (termes à ne pas prendre dans le sens restrictif habituel) de derviches ont participées de manière simultanée : les plus connus les derviches tourneurs, et une autre moins connus mais tout aussi spectaculaire les derviches hurleurs.
Les derviches hurleurs, assis dans une salle adjacente, psalmodient des chants rythmés, répétitifs et à progression sonore ascendante qui ont pour but de provoquer une transe à la fois chez les chanteurs et les tourneurs. Aucune autre musique ne vient normalement s'ajouter.
Cette cérémonie n'est pas réservée uniquement aux adeptes du soufisme, elle est ouverte aux autres musulmans comme toute autre cérémonie religieuse.
Je ne sais plus combien de temps exactement la cérémonie a réellement durée. Bien que ne participant pas physiquement mais étant simplement spectateur, j'ai perdu tout de même un peu la notion de temps sous l'effet des chants et de la danse des derviches. 😉
Mais à mon souvenir, nous sommes entrés vers 20h dans la mosquée et en sommes ressortis aux alentours de 23h passés et je conserve un sentiment très lumineux de cette cérémonie.
Voilà j'espère que ce petit descriptif t'apportera quelques éléments supplémentaires. 🙂
Spectacle étrange et envoutant vu à Konya (la ville des derviches tourneur) .... Vu dans aussi deux derviches dans un resto à DAMAS mais rien à voir avec Konya.
j'ai passé une petite semaine à istanbul, et j'aurais adoré en voir, mais j'ai justement été assez surpris de ne pas en voir. "Les derviches tourneurs : un art traditionnel en déclin ?" lol ouais, je suis journaliste à mes heures.
Il faut tout de même savoir que les derviches représentent un courant minoritaire de l'islam. De manière générale c'est un mouvement sous-représenté.
Et puis lors de l'instauration de la jeune république par Mustapha Kemal dans les années 1920 en Turquie, il y a eu une interdiction de pratiquer les rituels derviches publiquement pendant de nombreuses années. Il faudra attendre les années 50 pour que le derviches puissent de nouveau pratiquer plus librement.
Et puis le propre des rituels soufis est qu'ils doivent normalement se dérouler dans le secret puisqu'il s'agit d'une confrérie. Pour y participer il faut être un initié.
Le spectacle public est finalement une chose historiquement nouvelle.
A Istanbul, il est possible de voir une représentation de derviches dans le quartier de Galata/Beyoglu dans le tekke/musée des derviches. Mais à mon sens c'est plus un spectacle qu'une cérémonie religieuse.
Sinon il est possible d'assister à des rituels authentiques mais il faut passer par l'intermédiaire d'associations qui filtrent le nombre des non-initiés souhaitant y assister pour ne pas corrompre l'esprit de ces rassemblements.
merci beaucoup pour ces éclaircissemnts, mais alors de ce fait je me pose des questions sur les spectacles (et là on peut employer ce mot) sur les scène occidentales et aussi françaises (je n'ai pas encore assisté à ce genre de spectalce ni aux rituels), spectacles rodés, avec des organisateurs de tournées des "derviches tourneurs de Konya" (par exmeple comme cela s'est produit à metz cete année, et passé sur france3 régionale, cf youtube)
Les tournées comme nous les connaissons ont vu le jour grâce aux "ethno show", les montreurs de "sauvages et d'exotisme" au 19émé siècle, ce qu'on appellés les "zoos humains", ils se sont organisés pour créer un réseau à travers l'europe, les états unis.
Je me pose encore des questions sur la réception du public, parce qu'il y a toujours cette tendance qui pencherai vers l'exhibition, de l'exotisme, le goût du public européen (un organisateur de festival de danse folkorique du monde disait pour le spectateur "c'est la possibilité de voyager en restant assis au fond de son siége"), enfin je prend soin de na pas juger, ni de trancher mon avis bien au contraire. Pour tout cela j'ai besoin de laisser parler ceux qui en ont eu l'expérience, et je vous remercie encore pour cela.
Quelle chance quand même que vous avez eu de voyager en Turquie, et peut être ailleurs pour certains 😎...
J'ai hâte de pouvoir rejoindre mon ami à Istanbul, il m'a tellemnt parler de son pays quand il est venu étudier en France, que cela m'a donné envie d'y aller 😉
A bientôt sur le forum un peu partout sur Terre en rêvant les yeux ouverts
🙂
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
j'ai parler avec un epersonne qui a vu un "spectacle" de derviches tourneurs au sultan club, apparement il s'agit d'un hôtel trés touristique, mais malheureusement pour le peu que j'ai vu effectivement ce n'est pas génial il manque quelque chose comme la sincérité de représenter une danse prière, là c'était plutôt comme un spectacle qui entre simplement dans le jeu de l'exhibition de l'exotisme pour européens occidentaux....mais je peux me tromper...😉
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
au fait quand tu parle de la salle d'attente d'une gare, ne s'agit il pas de l'ancienne gare terminus du fameux Orient express?
j'ai pu voir une vidéo à cet endroit sur le site de youtube,
(dailymotion est aussi une mine de vidéos intéressante notamment sur les rituels dans les tekke, j'ai pu remarquer [ cf moonage] qu'il y avait un nombre limité d'occidentaux touristes, et plus d'initiés et de pratiquant. D'ailleurs des places sont en effets réservées, la mezzanine pour les femmes initiées, et la salle adjacente pour les homme sinitiées apparement ils tournent le dos aux derviches tourneurs, à moins que cesoit les derviches hurleurs...malheureusement je ne suis pas la mieux placée pour le savoir...
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
Il s'agit de la gare de Sirkeci qui est située à Eminönü. C'est en effet là que l'Orient Express arrivait.
La cérémonie du Sema a été proclamée patrimoine de l'humanité par l'Unesco et je pense que c'est pour l'occasion du 800e anniversaire de la naissance de Rumi que ce programme a été mis sur pied.
Le groupe se produit tous les dimanches, mercredis et vendredi à 19.30 h et la perfromance dure une heure dont une partie est consacrée uniquement à la musique soufi.
Ce n'est pas très grand comme salle et il y a donc un nombre très limité de spectateurs. Le public est resté silencieux et très respectueux car je pense qu'il n'est fréquenté que par des gens qui s'intéresse vraiment à la question.
Je vais t'envoyer en MP un texte intéressant sur la question mais je dois le scanner d'abord.
Si tu as une adresse email que tu peux me communiquer en MP, ce serait peut être encore mieux.
A bientôt
Mimi
mile
Les grands coups de coeur sont des maladies incurables (Goethe)
Si tu envisages de te rendre à Istanbul et assister à une cérmonie de derviches, je te conseille d'entrer en contact avec l'association culturelle "les arts turcs" http://www.lesartsturcs.org/
Leurs locaux sont situés à Sultanahmet, tout près de l'entrée de la citerne de Ste Sophie, au croisement de la divanyolu et de la rue où l'on trouve une grande concentration de restaurants (je ne me souviens plus du nom, désolé...).
Mais en les contactant par mail, l'asso te donnera tous les détails.
Je n'ai pas assisté aux représentations dont parle Mile près de Sirkeçi, mais 1h me semble une durée un peu courte en comparaison de ce que j'ai pu voir dans le quartier de Fatih. Mais je n'ai pas à donner d'avis puisque je n'y suis pas allé.🙂
Par contre, me rendant à Konya en juin, si quelqu'un a des infos sur les cérémonies de derviches qui se déroulent dans la ville, merci de m'en dire plus. 😉
bonsoir à tous désolé pour ce moment loin de voyage forum mais avec les examens pas le temps? par contre il faut vraiment que je visite le voyage forum, car il y a pas mal de sujets...
a bientôt ! et prenez soin de vous
Virginie
Ne nous cachons pas derrière un drapeau car nous sommes avant tout sur la même barque...
Quels sont vos expériences d'implants dentaires positives et négatives pour plusieurs pays dans le mondes. Style 4-5 implants dentaires, bonne qualité prix.…
Je pars en Turquie du 4 au 17 juin. J'atterris à Istanbul et je repars d'Ankara. J'aimerais savoir ce je dois absolument voir durant mon voyage. Istanbul: je…
Mardi prochain je pars en Turquie seule, j'ai 19 ans et c'est la première fois que je vais découvrir ce pays. Alors je dois me rendre à la gare de bus de…
En prévision d'un circuit en voiture de location d'Antalya à Izmir, nous cherchons les incontournables de la région et les "perles" que vous avez déjà…
We want to book our tickets to visit the Acropolis site and the associated museum. For these reservations, we need to specify entry time slots.
For the Acropolis alone: the first slot is at 8:30 AM.
For the museum: 10 AM? 11 AM?
We like to wander around, so here’s our question: if we haven’t finished exploring the site after 1.5 hours, is it possible to go back in after leaving the museum?
We’ll be buying tickets from the official websites—audio guides are mentioned. Any feedback on those? On sites like Get Your Guide, the prices are much higher with the audio guide included, but does that mean better quality?
I'm currently planning a trip to Cyprus for late October. I have a few questions:
- I plan to visit Nicosia, Paphos, and Ayia Napa. What do you recommend in Ayia Napa?
- Is it easy to get around by bus from one city to another? Or do you have any private drivers to recommend?
- Do you have any hotels to recommend?
Any tips or advice is welcome!
Thanks in advance
Hello,
We're heading to Istanbul from October 7th to 12th. I’d love to do a dinner cruise on the Bosphorus on a more intimate boat (no show) with a private table and alcohol (wine, since it’s a birthday dinner). Could anyone recommend a reliable company (I’m not looking for a private yacht either) that organizes this kind of evening?
Thanks in advance,
Hi, I’d like to buy a ticket to go to Terezín from Prague using the Pid Litacka app, but I don’t know which zone to get the ticket for. Thanks for your help! 😊
Hi there,
After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking...
So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet.
But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Hi, I’m going to Turkey for 3 weeks. I’ve heard that you can’t book through Booking.com once you’re there and that everything has to be reserved in advance. Is it true that Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey? Thanks to anyone who’s already been or is there—if it’s true, how do you handle bookings?
I’d love to get your opinions and advice on a destination.
It’s actually for my 19-year-old son who wants to go to Greece with his cousin, who’s the same age.
They’re looking at leaving on October 24th for 7 to 10 days.
For their trip, they want gorgeous beaches where they can swim, beautiful typical villages and historic cities, stunning landscapes, but also lively spots for their nights out. In short, they’re not just going there to laze around—they want to make the most of it...
But here’s the thing: will the weather be too iffy at that time, especially for swimming?
Also, would Crete be the best choice for what they’re looking for?
Then, a travel agent suggested Tenerife instead because of the weather at that time of year—he said the climate there is the same all year round. But will they find landscapes and beaches as beautiful as in Crete?
Hello!
I’m planning a trip to Greece in May or June 2027. We’re independent travelers.
We’ll rent a car after our stay in Athens and book accommodations through Booking or similar sites.
What do you think of this itinerary? We’re taking our time (beach and swimming if the weather allows in May—is the water too cold?)
Athens, 3 days
Nafplio, 3 days (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Archaia)
Mystras, 2 days or Monemvasia, 2 days (Laconia peninsula)?? Dilemma between the two
Return trip from the Peloponnese via the Rio-Antirrio bridge
Nafpaktos, 1 night
Arachova, 2 days (Delphi, Osios Loukas Monastery)
Return to Athens and departure
Is it crowded in May or June for visits to archaeological sites?
Thanks for your suggestions or corrections!
Hi there,
Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.
Hi,
What tips can you give me for dealing with a car rental scam attempt in Lithuania?
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11.
We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch!
But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter.
They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!!
Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it?
Thanks in advance!
I’m spending 2 weeks in Crete in September and will need a rental car.
I usually go with Europcar, but comparing their offer to what Aegean Rentals has, I see Europcar is charging no less than 400 € more for the same car and similar insurance!
I’d love to hear if others have experience with Aegean Rentals, and if so, whether it was a good one?
Hi,
We’re heading to Greece in early October and will be staying in Kineta, north of the Saronic Gulf, and renting a car.
Is it feasible to visit Acrocorinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidaurus in a single day?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi there!
I’m sharing our itinerary for May/June 2027—23 days. This is our first time in Greece, so we’re starting with the must-see spots. We’re planning another trip later to explore the north, Thessaloniki, Macedonia, and some islands.
- Athens, 4 nights
- Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth)
- Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula)
- Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia)
- Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip.
- Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras)
- Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries)
- Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?)
- Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery)
- And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Over the past twenty-five years, I’ve traveled the roads between France and Moldova a good ten times, sometimes via Central Europe, other times via the Balkans.
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours.
Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours.
This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus.
Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:
In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth.
In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well.
Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions!
Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city.
I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint
Visit the Baroque gardens
St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit
National Theatre
Discover the Cumil statues
Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie
Michael’s Gate
Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna
Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid
Head down to the Blue Church
Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge
There you go—10 km and a packed day!
What do you think?
Hi there,
we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures...
Thanks in advance!!