Bonsoir,
première discussion sur VF.
Nous avons le projet en juillet et aout 2011 de voyager en Namibie et au Botswana et ce sera notre première expérience de l'Afrique noire.
une première question : nous avons toujours fait du camping "sauvage" dans tous nos voyages : est ce possible dans ces 2 pays ? ou faut il absolument se limter aux campings et autres logements "officiels" ?
nous cherchons également des compagnons pour ce voyage : le premier mois, nous aurons avec nous 2 enfants de 13 ans et le 2ème nous ne serons que nous 2. des amateurs ?
a vous lire.
En Namibie, les 2/3 Sud du pays sont constitués de propriétés privées immenses clôturées, donc à moins de dormir sous un arbre au bord d'une route, pas trop de possibilité (mais les camps sont souvent géniaux !).
Le reste, principalement Damaraland et Kaokoland offre toutes les possibilités de bivouacs que tu veux.
Au Botswana… En simplifiant un peu, les parties intéressantes du pays se partagent entre des concessions privées où tu ne peux même pas rentrer et des parcs nationaux où il est strictement interdit (voire dangereux) de faire du camping sauvage. En plus il faut avoir des réservations dans les camps pour obtenir le droit d'entrer dans les parcs. Depuis la privatisation cette année, ces camps sont devenus vraiment chers et il faut s'en occuper 9 à 12 mois (!) à l'avance pour obtenir les camps que tu souhaites.
Mais il est sûrement temps d'y aller : il semble être de plus en plus question d'interdire les self-drivers dans les parcs du Botswana.
nous cherchons également des compagnons pour ce voyage : le premier mois, nous aurons avec nous 2 enfants de 13 ans et le 2ème nous ne serons que nous 2. des amateurs ?
Ça va pas recommencer comme l'an dernier ? Ne me tente pas !
J'ai eu une experience forcée de camping sauvage au Botswana...crois moi, vaut mille fois mieux un "vrai camp" même s'il n'a ni eau ni electricité : c'est débroussaillé, propre et généralement bien situé.
Ne les imagine pas comme des camping. Pour certain, il n'y a pas âme qui vive à des lieux à la ronde. Pour d'autres tu as 1 ou 2 voisins que tu croises à peine. Si dans certains lieu, tu exultes de te sentir "seul au monde", dans d'autres où la vie animale nocturne est très riche (notamment dans le Nord : de Moremi à Chobe), tu es parfois content et rassurer de sentir que tu n'es pas si seul que cela...
Par contre il est vrai que les camps situés à proximité des villes et généralement gérés par un lodge, ont plus un aspect camping.
Pour la Namibie, hormis les incontournables camps des sites les plus visités (Sesriem, Etosha, Fish River Canyon..) qui ont un air de camping, il y a de très nombreux camps privés, parfaitement intégrés dans la nature, où ton emplacement parfois grand comme un terrain de hand ne possède aucun vis à vis. Tu es seul au monde avec ta propre douche avec ballon d'eau chaude chauffé au feu de bois, des WC propres... et avec un risque de visite animalière nocturne "à risque potentiel" quasi nul. C'est vraiment pas la peine de faire du sauvage où il y a de très forte chance que tu sois beaucoup moins bien posé.
Bonjour, faire du camping en Afrique c'est déja plus que difficile (il n'y a pas de terrain de camping comme vous les connaissez ailleurs) mais en camping sauvage cela devient plus qu'aléatoire, avez vous pensé aux animaux sauvages, serpents, insectes (souvent les plus dangereux) et aussi aux éléments malfaisants de la population locale. Cherchez plutot des petits hotels de brousse ou des hébergements en dur.
Hmmm… L'Afrique Australe, en particulier la Namibie et le Botswana, ne sont pas l'Afrique Noire (contrairement à ce qui est écrit en début de post, d'ailleurs).
- Les insectes ou autres serpents, il y en aura autant dans les camps "aménagés" qu'en bivouac,
- Les populations locales au Damaraland ou au Kaokoland… Il n'y a quasiment personne et les "malfaisants", s'il y en a, on a bien peu de chance de les rencontrer.
Le bivouac sauvage c'est le seul moyen d'explorer les parties les plus reculées de la Namibie…
Les "hôtels de brousse", ça n'existe pas dans cette partie de l'Afrique.
C 'était bien en Namibie que la famille de touristes en camping car s'est fait allumer au pistolet mitrailleur, on est jamais seul dans le désert, on croit etre seul, et il reste pas mal de scorpions etc... tout aussi dangereux. Mais l'aventure c'est l'aventure, on prend les risques que l'on veut.
Il y a 30 ans et depuis la situation s'est très très dégradée. Alors le camping sauvage sous la tente je n'y pense meme pas, dans un tout terrain aménagé ou un camping car peut etre, en choisissant son endroit pour la nuit auprès d'un lieu habité. Mais puisque vous connaissez les lieux ou c'est possible vous pouvez indiquer a notre ami les endroits, il pourra ainsi organiser son périple.
Non ! Il y a trente ans, c'étaient les guerres de libération, ce temps est révolu !
Depuis, la situation s'est au contraire normalisée. Les choses ne vont pas forcément de mal en pis partout !
Le tourisme est même devenu possible sans danger particulier en Angola. J'en ai discuté longuement avec la propriétaire du lodge d'Hobatere, il viennent d'y passer leurs vacances.
Vous devriez retourner voir !
Bonjour,
J'ai campé 2 semaines en 1990 en namibie ( bande de caprivi compris)sans problème et y suis retourné en 2009. Le pays s'est encore amélioré à tout point de vue. Les grandes propriétés se sont ouvertes au tourisme de qualité en ne cherchant pas la quantité. C'est certainement un des pays les sûrs d'Afrique avec le botswana. Mais rien à voir avec l'Angola!! D'ailleurs comment était-il possible de se rendre en Afs ( la namibie était sous protectorat de l'Afs)à cette époque depuis l' Angola?
comme quoi tout le monde n'est pas d'accord, j'ai moi meme un résident en Angola actuellement qui me dit que sortir de Luanda demande des précautions de sécurité, alors peut etre qu'un lodge perdu dans la brousse est mieux protégé, en y accédant par hélico ou voiture accompagnée
de gardes.Le problème la bas c'est qu'un grand nombre d'ex soldats ou guérilleros n'ont pas d'autres solutions pour vivre que le vol, et souvent avec arme a feux. Donc il faut aller voir par soi meme, j'attend qu'un client m'appelle car je n'irais certainement pas en vacances.
A cette époque le passage routier entre l'Angola et l'Ads était possible pour des étrangers, j'allais y chercher des pièces de rechange.Mais je reste très sceptique sur le fait de faire du camping sous la tente en Afrique, meme si la sécurité semble assurée dans certaines zones, mais puisque tu connais ces bons coins, donne les adresses a notre ami.
Il y a des dizaines de milliers de touristes de toutes nationalités qui campent en Namibie et au Botswana chaque année !
Je suis ce qui s'y passe depuis plusieurs années maintenant, y compris sur des forums Sud-Africains. J'y suis allé en 2008 et 2010. Les seuls problèmes dont j'ai entendu parler récemment sont : un type qui s'est fait gravement mordre par une hyène alors qu'il s'était endormi dehors à 23h dans un camp, l'explosion d'un "donkey boiler" à Moremi qui a tué une femme et gravement blessé un homme.
Il existe effectivement des cas de vol, voire de vol à l'arme blanche en Namibie, mais ça se circonscrit dans les villes, principalement Windhoek, je n'ai pas entendu parler de blessé pendants ces vols. Le plus grand danger en Namibie, ce sont les accidents de la route, très nombreux car beaucoup de conducteurs n'ont aucune expérience de conduite sur la terre et roulent trop vite sur les gravel road. À part ça…
Il semble bien que tes infos ne soient pas très à jour.
Je me suis quand même fait voler un pain de mie en 2008 dans le camp d'Ihaha au Bostwana par un Babouin !!
et cette année, un paquet de chamallow par un Vervet (à couilles bleues) à Sodwana Bay en RSA...
Donc le risque existe bien !!!
😉😛
C 'était bien en Namibie que la famille de touristes en camping car s'est fait allumer au pistolet mitrailleur, on est jamais seul dans le désert, on croit etre seul, et il reste pas mal de scorpions etc... tout aussi dangereux. Mais l'aventure c'est l'aventure, on prend les risques que l'on veut.
Eltopo veut sans doute parler d'un accident dramatique arrivé il y a environ 10 ans dans la bande de Caprivi... des touristes français en camping car ont été tués par des tirs venant de l'Angola tout proche : cf carte de la Namibie...
Après, pour le reste du pays, c'est franchement plus que calme, d'accord 1000 fois avec Pierre77N !
Et les p'tes bébètes... pas plus que dans le Larzac à mon avis...
Les grosses c'est autre chose
Rebonjour, comme je vois que tu étais la bas il y a peu, petite question, est ce que l'on peut encore rencontrer des femmes girafes dans le nord de la Namibie, en as tu rencontré? je me suis souvent demandé si la guerre ne les avait pas éliminé.
Des femmes-girafes ? En Namibie ? Je peux me tromper, mais ne crois pas qu'il y en ait jamais eu. Le Nord-Ouest, c'est le Kaokoland, le territoire des Himbas, dont les femmes se teignent le corps en ocre.
Il y en avait, je ne sais plus quelle tribu, qui vivait sur la zone frontalière, je me suis retrouvé un soir au coucher du soleil, sur une piste , en face de 4 femmes, dont le cou était cerclé d'anneaux , extraordinaire souvenir, j'ai pris une photo d'elles en échange de cartouche d'allumettes, je n'arrive plus a retrouver cette photo.
Il y en avait, je ne sais plus quelle tribu, qui vivait sur la zone frontalière, je me suis retrouvé un soir au coucher du soleil, sur une piste , en face de 4 femmes, dont le cou était cerclé d'anneaux , extraordinaire souvenir, j'ai pris une photo d'elles en échange de cartouche d'allumettes, je n'arrive plus a retrouver cette photo.
C'était quoi déjà la question de départ d'Amertens ??
On a à faire à un gros blagueur, on dirait, non ?? Comme dit Ericarole, à part les femmes N'débélé en Af'sud...
Les "vraies" femmes girafe ne se trouvent-elles pas en Birmanie - Nord Thaïlande ??
PS : autrement, Amertens, je suis d'accord avec Pierre77N dans ses 1ères réponses...
Merci à tout le monde pour vos réponses et vos disgressions !
nous envoyons notre 4x4 en container et partirons un peu plus de 2 mois. Nous dormirons à 4 dans le 4x4.
dans tous les voyages que nous avons faits jusqu'à maintenant (Islande, Tunisie, Maroc, Corse, Pyrénées, ..), nous n'avons jamais fait de réservations à l'avance; nous avons choisi nos bivouacs au gré de nos envies et des paysages et la plupart du temps, ce furent des bivouacs sauvages (rarement des campings). d'où notre crainte de devoir planifier plus de 2 mois de bivouacs et donc d'itinéraires........... vous semble t il déraisonnable de ne réserver que sur une partie du trajet et d'improviser pour le reste ? Si oui, dans quelles régions est il plus "facile" d'improviser et dans quelles régions est il indispensable de réserver ?
nous pensions faire plutôt le Botswana avec les enfants et la Namibie quand ils auraient rejoint la Belgique. votre avis ?
quant à Pierre, s'il est tenté, pourquoi résister ? 🙂 Nous recherchons des compagnons de voyage (pour tout ou partie du voyage) pour partager les bons moments, les expériences, les passages plus difficiles et risqués et les souvenirs au retour (car il y a toujours un retour ! ). ce que nous aimons : avancer sans courir, se retrouver dans des endroits perdus (en quittant les istes), l'aventure sans risque inutile, quelques challenges techniques (pas un camel Trophy au quotidien ! ), ..........
Non, pas besoin de planifier vos 2 mois d'itinéraire avec précision.
Les seuls endroits où il faut vraiment réserver, ce sont les parcs au Botswana parce que pas de camp réservé = on ne te laisse pas rentrer dans les parcs.
En Namibie, il n'y a pas forcément de la place dans les camps des parcs, mais on arrive toujours à se caser quelque part. Comme dit plus haut, les possibilités de bivouac dans les 2/3 Sud de la Namibie n'existent pas, mais les camps des guest farms sont souvent super et peu chers.
Les enfants au Botswana ? C'est effectivement peut-être mieux pour les animaux. Les nôtres ont aimé les deux pays.
Comment faites-vous pour le 4x4 ? Anvers/Cape Town ? Ça vaut le coup pour deux mois par rapport à une location ? Si ce n'est pas indiscret ça revient à combien environ ?
quant à Pierre, s'il est tenté, pourquoi résister ? 🙂
Un peu tôt, on vient de rentrer… Mais j'avoue ne manque pas d'idées de choses à voir et à faire encore !
nous n'avons pas encore le prix pour le container et on attend encore des infos. mais le projet est de laisser le 4x4 quelques semaines ou mois là bas et d'y retourner peutêtre à Noêl.
on en est encore vraiment au tout début.....! mais on te tient au courant.
Non ce n'est pas une blague, elles n'avaient pas la longueur du cou des femmes girafes en Asie, mais meme a l'époque j'avais été très surpris, aucune tribu locale ne m'avait été signalé ayant cette particularité.
Bonjour,
Nous allons aussi passer 3 semaines en Namibie en faisant un periple que nous sommes en train d'organiser.
Sommes à la recherche de touristes avec lesquels faire un bout de chemin, par exemple une semaine sur des pistes ou
il est recommandé d'être à 2 4x4.
Sommes interessé par tout conseils, astuces, bon plans etc..
Ce n'est pas les histoires des touristes en camping car qui se sont fait allumer au pistolet mitrailleur, ou les serpents et scorpions ni les femme girafes qui vous ont fait renoncer à cette destination, j'espère ? ! 😇 🙂 😏
Nous seront egalement en Namibie/Botswana pour les mois de juillet et aout 2011...
Nous ne voyageons pas en 4x4 mais a bicyclette, donc on ne fera pas forcement des super compagons de route, pour ceux qui en cherchaient (on fait quand meme des pointes a 30km/h, avec vent dans le dos), par contre si les circonstances le permettent, pourquoi ne pas co-bivouaquer ?
Bon en matiere de camping nous on fait dans le "plus que sauvage", hein, on a une tente qui se pose sur le sol et un petit rechaud hihihi, et toutes nos affaires sont accrochees a nos velos. Mais on a l'habitude, ca fait un an qu'on voyage comme ca. Ceci dit, cette experience namibienne risque d'etre assez inedite...
Nous sommes a Windhoek en ce moment, on prend la route d'ici dimanche.
Si vous nous apercevez sur la route, prennez donc quelques minutes de votre parcours pour nous saluer (vous pourrez pas nous rater je pense), voir nous jeter une bouteille d'eau que nous saurons apprecier par ces temps de saison seche...
Et bé..en vélo.... J'ai un vieux pote qui a traversé l'australie, le canada et l'amérique du sud en vélo... c'est déjà un fou furieux 😉 mais c'était du goudron. Vous cela va être aussi beaucoup de gravels road (graviers et sable) dur dur pour les mollets et 30 km/h même avec le vent dans le dos, sur ce type de route, je crains fort que cela ne soit pas réalisable.
Par contre au Bostwana, je ne sais pas ce que vous avez envisagé comme trajet mais le plus intéréssant se fait par des pistes de sable infaisables en vélo car trop mou. Les grand axes goudronnés n'offrent que des paysages monotones et sans grand intéret. Peut être devriez vous plus rester en Namibie où les paysages sont plus beaux.
Oubliez aussi les reserves et parcs animaliers (Etosha), en vélo cela m'étonnerait qu'ils vous laissent entrer : trop dangereux (Lions, Rhinos, Elephants...)
Des femmes-girafes ? En Namibie ? Je peux me tromper, mais ne crois pas qu'il y en ait jamais eu. Le Nord-Ouest, c'est le Kaokoland, le territoire des Himbas, dont les femmes se teignent le corps en ocre.
Bien sûr. Voici une photo prise en 2010 entre Lubango et Benguela (en Angola). Peut être, est ce les "femmes girafes" de notre honorable correspondant ...... comme le canada dry
bon en fait nos plan evoluent (c'est fou ce que les situations changent vite en Afrique),
en fait nous n'allons pas en velo au Botswana, notre route depuis Windhoek nous emmene par Spitzkoppe, puis le sud d'Etoha (oui, on va longer sagement la cloture exterieure...), puis la ville de Rundu et la bande de Caprivi jusqu'aux environs de Livingstone ou nous allons nous poser un peu, et enfiler notre plus beau costume de touriste 😎 (histoire de consommer un peu de chutes Victoria et de parcs quoi).
Donc du 10 au 24 aout, nous seront aux environs de la bande de Caprivi... difficile de dire avec precision.
Effectivement les parcs sont interdits pour les velos, ce que je comprends tout a fait, j'ai meme pas envie de frauder...
mais si un gentil pick up pas trop charge nous propose de traverser Etosha avec lui... why not ? on met les velos derriere et hop.
Les gravels roads on s'y est faits en Afrique de l'Ouest, je pense que ce ne sera jamais pire que ces espece de chantiers sino-malien qui deversent sur les bas cotes une poussiere epaisse farineuse, dans laquelle t'enfonces la moitie de tes roues, Tudjieu ! C'est vrai qu'un bon asphalte bien noir de temps en temps... heureusment, les paysages magnifiques te font completement oublier le temps ou la fatigue, juste tu avances dans le decor...
Pour Etosha la solution c'est un lodge à l'extérieur du parc et faire des game drive avec eux 😉
c'est quoi un game drive ?
tu sais, nous, la bagnole... ;)
z'êtes un peu dingo quand même non ?
😄 Booorn to beeee wouaaaa-aaa-iiiiiiild
On essaiera de tenir ce post a jour, vu que le titre, c'est Faire du camping sauvage en Namibie et au Botswana? ca pourra toujours venir en aide a d'autre qui voudraient s'y essayer... genre est-ce que c'est completement chouette de le faire en velo, si c'est safe de dormir dans notre petite tente, notre moyenne kilometrique, comment on va faire pour l'eau (tiens oui d'ailleurs comment on va faire ?), hum bref tout ca quoi...
Effectivement, va falloir que vous vous posiez les bonnes questions.
Safe la petite tente : oui mais c'est pas parce que tu ne seras pas dans une réserve que tu ne risques pas de visite animalière. Faut penser aux : Elephants, lions, hyenes serpents qui peuvent poser problemes et qui peuvent se balader hors des reserves surtout côté bande de caprivi
De ton idée de périple, la bande de caprivi est très wouaaaa-aaa-iiiiiiild : des centaines de kilometres sans ville. Ca veut dire que si tu n'as pas une petite remorque pour y mettre des bidons d'eau, tu vas boire comment ? sur le bord de la route : pas de fontaine, pas de robinet, pas de station service, pas d'épicerie.... çà et là quelques cases c'est tout.
Deux points de ravitallement : Rundu, puis Bagani/divundu à 170 km de là, c'est à dire pour toi 3 jours de route, je pense, avec donc de l'eau de la nourriture en conséquence, ensuite Bagani/Kongola re 190-200 km de route sans rien.
Pour mettre ta tente à Bagani, tu trouveras certainement un petit coin mais entre les deux tu n'as guere que le bord de la route, c'est pas terrible. Sinon essaye de demander l'hospitalité dans les minuscules villages çà peut être là pour le coup de superbes moments
Un game drive : Game c'est gibier..animal sauvage, donc un game drive c'est partir en 4x4 sur les pistes pour débusquer les animaux. Les meilleurs se font tôt le matin ou au couchant
Entre Bagani et Kongola, c'est un parc. Probablement interdit en vélo et assurément interdit de camper.
Et partout au bord des routes (pas seulement au Caprivi), il est très déconseillé de camper. Les animaux les plus dangereux ce sont les humains qui peuvent passer sur les routes la nuit…
Je serais vraiment curieux que vous nous racontiez tout ça après. Ce projet de vélo en Namibie me semble tellement irréaliste…
Effectivement, va falloir que vous vous posiez les bonnes questions.
Je pense qu'en allant sur leur site, voir les différentes balades dont une en Mauritanie, ils se sont déjà posé les "bonnes questions".
Il est ptête inutile de leur conseiller d'emmener de l'eau .......
Eh oui, on peux voyager en Namibie et au Botswana sans faire un chèque (conséquent !!!) pour un aller et retour avion en 15 jours, louer un 4x4 (c'est drôle de voir le touriste sus nommé affronter ses premiers passages sableux dans son Hilux avec tente de toit) prendre des photos d'éléphants, avec les autres Hilux (de la même société de location) et râler (à cause du prix payé) comme un putois, qu'on n'a pas réussi son "bigfive".
C'est d'ailleurs pour ça que les prix montent ...... car (voir Coluche), s'il n'y avait personne pour acheter ......
Tout le monde n'a pas le luxe d'avoir son propre véhicule pour parcourir l'Afrique dans tous les sens, sans contrainte de temps et/ou de budget... alors oui il en faut pour tout le monde, tant pis pour pour ceux qui croient qu'à part eux, les autres peuvent rester à la maison en regardant Ushuaia.
Que se soit dans un hilux avec tentes sur le toit ou dans un defender avec cellule bricolé en France, ça change quoi quand tu passes dans un village et que tu envoies de la poussière à la figure de ceux qui y vivent : Pas grand chose, pour eux t'es aussi un touriste, même si tu l'es plus souvent et plus longtemps.
"De tous ceux qui n'ont rien à dire, les plus agréables sont ceux qui se taisent" Ca aussi c'est Coluche.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 5 replies
Nous passons 3 semaines en Namibie l'été prochain. Le véhicule sera très probablement un 4x4 simple ou double cabine avec tente sur le toit (nous possédons…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Tanzanie · 2 replies
Non pas "sauvage", j'exagère... Est ce que quelqu' un pourrait me dire s il est possible de dormir avec ma propre tente à Moru Kopje, dans le centre du…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 6 replies
J'ai trouvé ce circuit en camping www.samsara-voyages... Cela correspond à peu près au parcours que je veux faire et dans les conditions que je veux faire…
Nous partons en couple pour l'Afrique de l'Est, au programme: ETHIOPIE, KENYA, TANZANIE, MALAWI... Départ dans une petite semaine...Nous voyagerons en…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Afrique du Sud · 6 replies
Avec un ami nous ommes en afsud du 18 au 29 juin "coupe du monde " oblige!! nous avons l intention de prendre le bazbus pour nous rendre vers le natal du 19 au…
Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
