GR20 Sud au Nord
by Cedric78700
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
bonjour
cet été nous nous lancons le défi depuis qu'on en parle du GR20 , pour une première approche , après réflexion, faire le GR20 du sud au nord jusqu'a vizzavone
j'ai une petite interrogation je viens d'acheter le topo mais le guide ne parle que du nord au sud ... comment çà se passe la bas , le fléchage ne marche que dans un sens ??? comment avez vous géré la bas ? merci pour vos retours d'expérience
bonne journée
🙂 tu as juste à inverser la lecture, c'est un peu fastidieux mais on s'y fait, de toute manière c'est tellement balisé que tu risques pas de te perdre
Je rejoins Veve. Pas de soucis. Le sentier est tellement emprunté que c'est - parfois - comme une ornière : tu es dedans, tu n'en sors plus 😏 !
Attention, il existe une nouvelle variante avant Asinau (depuis 2012 je crois) qui rallonge d'une journée.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
je profite de ce post pour te remercier de tes conseils que tu m'avais donné pour le gr 20, j'ai passé un super séjour en corse
bonjour Cédric,
No sushi, tu peux et même je te le recommande ! pour ma part je l'ai parcouru 3 fois dans ce sens sud/ nord. Le traçage est réellement adapté au 2 sens, double traçage effectué, pour le topoguide, j'ai numéroté mes étapes au crayon rouge en haut de page .
J'y vois 2 gros avantages, progressivité de la difficulté, le corps à le temps de s'adapter, et aussi jamais le soleil de face, très souvent dans le dos, plus agréable et surtout on profite mieux ainsi des paysages...
Bon GR20 à toi, quant à moi, GR10 au programme cet été.
Jeff
Et je partage ta réponse !
Bon Natale !
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Hello merci de ta réponse
J ai été surpris en achetant le topo .. Me suis dis mais ça va pas le faire ;-) même si je me débrouille avec les cartes j adore les courses d orientation ..
Comment avez vous fait ? Réservation refuge ou tente ?
C'est selon pour les nuits mais surtout pas de réservation : tu n'es plus maître de tes journées (faut être là le soir de la résa) et de toute façon, il y a de la place (les pires si tu arrives en dernier, ce qui fait que certains partent très tôt pour avoir THE place). Dans le refuge : bien s'il pleut des corses mais à éviter pour la promiscuité, les ronflements, les odeurs, etc.
Si tu peux porter une tente ou un tarp, un matelas et un duvet, c'est mieux. Si non, les refuges louent tentes et matelas, parfois un peu crades ; tu dois avoir ton duvet (ou un sac à viande).
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
sans hésitation prend une tente et essaye d'arrivée de bonne heure pour avoir un bon emplacement (parce que vu le sol , ils n'y en a pas beaucoup). Utilise le refuge pour la douche et la popote. Certains sont assez crades avec beaucoup de promiscuité. Moi j'avais mon tarp et nous pouvions faire de bonnes nuits
mdr !! je ne connaissais même pas ce terme ... curieux je suis allé voir ce que c'était quand même ;-) mais c'est juste un toit ? suffisant ?
j'ai une tente aucun souci mais un peu vieillote .. surtout pas léger j'irai m'en acheter une , montage rapide !!! mais votre duvet çà prend une bonne place tout de même ... tous mes treks c'était en région tropicale , donc pas très froid un drap de soie suffisait ;-)
Tu as des tentes légères (voir site "MUL" par ex.). Une 3 saisons suffit J'en au deux dont la Ultralight de chez D4. Pour le duvet, la technologie propose des produits intéressants. Pour le GR en été, la température descend rarement sous 5°C.
Avec un bon matelas genre Thermarest Z lite, c'est tout bon.
Avec un tarp, deux bâtons (ceux de marche), 4 sardines et bouts de ficelle, ça fait plus léger. J'en ai fait un avec un rideau de douche : pas cher et durable !
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
pour la topo, oui , un "vrai" randonneur à toujours sa carte ou son topoguide. Maintenant sur le GR20, le balisage est hyper bien fait dans les 2 sens, on peut s'orienter rien qu'en suivant la trace, en la respectant aussi sans "couper" de quelques mètres pour gagner un peu de terrain, le sentier doit être respecter, certains ne l'ont pas compris....
Pour l'hébergement, tu peux(tu dois en principe) réserver et payer tes nuits sur le site du PNRC. L'idéal est de réserver une tente sur place, en général elles sont déjà montées, disposent de très confortable matelas autogonflant, ce sont des 2 places, donc pas de souci se mettre à l'aise, étaler ses p'tites affaires, son sac à l'abri pour la nuit.
Bien mieux qu'au refuge où certains ne respectent pas le sommeil des autres...
Pour l'hébergement, tu peux(tu dois en principe) réserver et payer tes nuits sur le site du PNRC.
Non, Jeff55, la réservation des nuitées n'est pas obligatoire. Il me semble même que ça ne marche plus ou pas sur le site du PNRC. La direction a testé le système il y a qq années : un flop. Mais d'accord pour le restes, surtout de ne pas s'écarter du sentier car on se perd très vite sur certaines portions.
Non, Jeff55, la réservation des nuitées n'est pas obligatoire. Il me semble même que ça ne marche plus ou pas sur le site du PNRC. La direction a testé le système il y a qq années : un flop. Mais d'accord pour le restes, surtout de ne pas s'écarter du sentier car on se perd très vite sur certaines portions.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
entendu Chnoupi, me concernant j'avais fais mes résa en 2010,2011 & 2013 sur le PNRC.
Maintenant, il est vrai que les refuges préfèrent avoir de l'argent frais de la main à la main....😉
donc faut arriver les premiers ? :-( je n'ai pas non plus envie de le faire en course... c'est des vacances toute de même ;-)
Non toujours eu de la place, maintenant, il vaut mieux partir au petit matin, admirer le lever du soleil, marcher à la fraîche et faire sieste ou baignade dans les vasque l'après midi à proximité des refuges...Me concernant, toujours parti à 6h00 le matin en plein été...
Après, chacun fait comme il l 'entend...
Exact, en partant assez tôt, tu évites les fortes chaleurs possibles. De toute façon, tu n'éviteras pas le croiser d'autres personnes (plus de 2000 randonneurs par jour en moyenne sur le 20 !) et d'avoir à faire à tout (gens pressés, cools, inconscient, sympas, impolis...).
Pour les réservations, je crois que l'expérience a été lancée en 2009 avec "obligation" de réserver. Un membre de VF m'a dit ne pas arriver à faire la manip sur le site du PNRC, ce qui a été confirmé par un pote qui travaille au parc. Mais bon...
Enfin, une info de taille : s'il y a moins de punaises de lit suite à une lourde campagne d'assainissement sur qq années, les bestioles reviennent. Raison de plus pour avoir son matos pour dormir (tente, matelas et duvet), elles sont voraces et les allergies parfois violentes !
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Ouing des punaises! 😕
Ai-je bien lu: si jamais on part hors saison d'ouverture des refuges il reste néanmoins possible d'accéder à leurs sanitaires et à leurs points d'eau?
Concernant l'eau justement peut-on en trouver facilement sur le GR en début de saison, d'ailleurs que doit-on considérer comme début de saison (que disent les grenouilles corses sur le sujet? 🙂 )?
Ai-je bien lu: si jamais on part hors saison d'ouverture des refuges il reste néanmoins possible d'accéder à leurs sanitaires et à leurs points d'eau?
Concernant l'eau justement peut-on en trouver facilement sur le GR en début de saison, d'ailleurs que doit-on considérer comme début de saison (que disent les grenouilles corses sur le sujet? 🙂 )?
"La seule chose dont on soit sûr, en ce qui concerne l'avenir, c'est qu'il n'est jamais conforme à nos prévisions." (Jean Dutourd)
Normalement, un refuge reste un refuge toute l'année. Je ne peux pas te dire si les infrastructures restent accessibles hors saison "GR20" mais ça m'étonnerait vu le niveau "luxe". De mon temps (eh oui, je suis chibani), il y avait peu de refuge qui offraient des prestations, il y avait juste un gardien, parfois un étudiant...
La saison varie selon la météo et les dates de vacances. Il faut demander à la direction du PNRC à Ajaccio.
C'est à peu près de mai à septembre. Juillet à 15 aout : grand beau. Avant, risque d'averses. Après, risque d'orages et de fortes pluies. La Corse est une montagne avant d'être une île : prudence donc.
Pas de soucis pour l'eau qui ne manque pas encore en montagne. Pour moi, 1,5l par jour me suffit.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
j'ai fini le gr 20 hors saison (octobre). A partir du 1er les gardiens commençaient à partir mais bon il n'y a pas une dates fixe. Dans les 5 derniers refuges, eau coupé (donc plus de douche) mais il y a toujours de l'eau dehors. Parfois plus de gaz non plus et évidement plus de ravitaillement à vendre
partir tôt sera pas un problème surtout pour éviter les grosses chaleurs s'il y a ... car vu le dernier été qu'on a eu !!!!
par contre c'est vrai qu'on est là pour profiter des paysages , des vues , profiter des vacances quoi ;-)
je préférais dormir dans les refuges c'est clair, mais depuis que je parcoure un peu les forums quand je vois les commentaires sur les punaises j'avoue que mon avis à un peu changé ;-)
nous partirions du 10 aout je pense !! j'essaye d'attirer des amis pour le faire avec nous ;-) pfff les fainéants ... mdr
je préférais dormir dans les refuges c'est clair, mais depuis que je parcoure un peu les forums quand je vois les commentaires sur les punaises j'avoue que mon avis à un peu changé ;-)
nous partirions du 10 aout je pense !! j'essaye d'attirer des amis pour le faire avec nous ;-) pfff les fainéants ... mdr
hello à tous
on approche on approche !!! on achète au fur et à mesure notre équipement ;-)
nous arrivons le 9 au soir à Ajaccio , le temps de faire la route , nous nous lancerons le 11 de Conca
parfait le gîte La Tonnelle fait parking également car nous étions un peu embêté pour la voiture ...
par contre comment faites vous pour la bouffe ? j'ai vu qu'on pouvait se servir de la cuisine mais çà fait un certain poids tout de même et un petit budget si on les prend tous aux refuges ....
Pour les repas,
- soit tu fais comme avant : seulement deux points "épicerie" sur le GR (ou en sortir pour aller se ravitailler dans des villages),
- soit tu fais comme de nombreuses personnes : utiliser les prestations des refuges et gîtes. Ne pas oublier de l'argent liquide, c'est plus pratique...
Je ne sais pas si l'utilisation du coin cuisine est un bon plan.
Bon GR ! Et rappelle-toi de ceci :
"Partir comme un vieux pour arriver comme un jeune". Et partir au plus tôt le matin afin d'éviter des mauvais coups de météo qui se font souvent dès le milieu de l'après-midi.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
très sympa l'expression , je la ressortirais et surtout pour mon blog ;-)
la première chose que j'ai retenu sur ces mois de lecture ... PARTIR TOT !!
Oui, partit tôt. C'est une règle générale mais pas toujours à appliquer selon le lieu...
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
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I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
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I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
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I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
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We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
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I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
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From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro






