Crète: quelle région est la mieux pour un premier séjour?
by Yann75
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour
je pars une douzaine de jours en crete fin juin, je voulais savoir s'il faut mieux se concentrer sur une region et quelle region? je compte pas louer de voitures mais voyager via les bus.
c'est mon 1er sejour là-bas, je suis attiré par la rando, l'authenticité des lieux, chambres chez l'habitant... et une petite baignade de tps en tps quand meme... par quelle region commencer qui à y retourner une autre année pour faire le reste ? merci
Bonjour
Je suis aller en CRETE Hersonissos pres de Heraklion au mois de septembre 2007
C'est super pour les visites pas de probleme avec le transport urbain tu peux te rendre tres facilement ou tu veux
Regarde sur mon site il y a une video des endroit que j'ai visité pendant mon séjour
Bon voyage
http://rene103.skyrock.com/7.html
Rene
Bonjour YANN75,
Bonne idée de partir fin juin, c'est à mon avis, la meilleure saison, avant l'été et ses canicules.
Si je puis me permettre, visiter la Crète en bus ressort de l'impossible, ou alors, vous allez passer votre temps aux arrêts de bus, parfois au plein soleil, à attendre un bus qui ne va pas où vous voulez (allez lire le grec sur les panneaux des bus) ou qui est déjà plein et qui vous demande d'attendre le bus suivant (qui est parfois à trois quart d'heure derrière), je l'ai hélas vécu la première fois où je suis allé en Crète.
Le mieux est de louer une voiture. Vous serez beaucoup plus libre de vos mouvements.
Dormir chez l'habitant est une idée géniale.
Quelques chambres sont encore vieillotes et vétustes et si vous ne savez (ou ne pouvez négocier ne parlant pas la langue) vous pourriez la payer plus cher que son prix.
Pour ma part, je suis parti plusieurs fois en Crète, seul et avec une agence, je puis vous dire que parfois les services d'une agence sont gagnants et gâcher ses vacances, c'est toujours ennuyeux.
Mais la Crète est vraiment une super île.
Bon délassement.
Jean-Michel.
Je ne sdouhaite pas forcement visiter l'ile en une seule fois, c'est sur qu'avc 12 jours et en bus, impossible !! je sais..
par contre comme je suis seul, la location d'une voiture me parait couteuse, à deux je dis pas mais comme j'ai aps un gros budget pour ces vacances.... combien coute une location de voiture en moyenne dans les basses gammes ? merci
perso je suis tombée amoureuse de "La canée" et de la région alentour (nous avons pris le bus sans problème), ....
Dans ce cas ce sera super car tu vas pouvoir profiter de la Crète sans la horde des touristes.... profites en pour visiter l'intérieur c'est très joli aussi.
Effectivement, mais il y a la solution des scooters ou des vélos.....
Bonsoir Yann,
Moi je te conseille pour un premier séjour Amoudara, à 8 km (à peu près) d'Heraklion. La plage est ok. Tu as pas mal de restos à côté pas forcément très chers, tu as par exemple une sandwicherie mais les tavernes ne sont pas du tout excessives...Pour te loger tu as des chambres dans des hôtels pas chers comme le Roxani Hôtel..Ce n'est pas le palace mais c'est ok pour un petit budget (moi j'y ai séjourné et c'est correct)... Et enfin, tu as juste un arrêt de bus pour Heraklion juste à côté: C'est vraiment un coin sympa pour un premier séjour... A ta place, j'éviterais quand même de loger à Hersonisos qui est une ville très bruyante avec des bars sur toute la côte...Bon si tu aimes vas-y, mais si tu cherches à te reposer aussi, à éviter... C'est aussi le soir, un lieu assez pathétique par le spectacle qu'il donne...!! Autre chose pour terminer, en ce qui concerne les gorges, Imbros sont moins longues à faire, Samaria c'est quelque chose comme 15 km. Alors bien sûr, c'est mieux de les faire en descendant. Un seul conseil, pars le matin très tôt pour savourer la descente et ne pas être obligé de speeder pour ne pas louper le bateau qui t'attend en bas (ça c'est du vécu !!) et surtout, prévois des bonnes chaussures oui, mais aussi du ravitaillement comme de l'eau et de quoi manger !! c'est vraiment une étape sportive...
Allez, à toi de prendre ta décision !! si tu as d'autres questions n'hésite pas, ça fait une dizaine d'années que je vais régulièrement en Crète...et j'y retourne cette année...😉😊
Bonnes vacances, Nina.
Moi je te conseille pour un premier séjour Amoudara, à 8 km (à peu près) d'Heraklion. La plage est ok. Tu as pas mal de restos à côté pas forcément très chers, tu as par exemple une sandwicherie mais les tavernes ne sont pas du tout excessives...Pour te loger tu as des chambres dans des hôtels pas chers comme le Roxani Hôtel..Ce n'est pas le palace mais c'est ok pour un petit budget (moi j'y ai séjourné et c'est correct)... Et enfin, tu as juste un arrêt de bus pour Heraklion juste à côté: C'est vraiment un coin sympa pour un premier séjour... A ta place, j'éviterais quand même de loger à Hersonisos qui est une ville très bruyante avec des bars sur toute la côte...Bon si tu aimes vas-y, mais si tu cherches à te reposer aussi, à éviter... C'est aussi le soir, un lieu assez pathétique par le spectacle qu'il donne...!! Autre chose pour terminer, en ce qui concerne les gorges, Imbros sont moins longues à faire, Samaria c'est quelque chose comme 15 km. Alors bien sûr, c'est mieux de les faire en descendant. Un seul conseil, pars le matin très tôt pour savourer la descente et ne pas être obligé de speeder pour ne pas louper le bateau qui t'attend en bas (ça c'est du vécu !!) et surtout, prévois des bonnes chaussures oui, mais aussi du ravitaillement comme de l'eau et de quoi manger !! c'est vraiment une étape sportive...
Allez, à toi de prendre ta décision !! si tu as d'autres questions n'hésite pas, ça fait une dizaine d'années que je vais régulièrement en Crète...et j'y retourne cette année...😉😊
Bonnes vacances, Nina.
hum a propos d'amoundara, j'y ai passe une nuit car je voulai etre proche de l'aeroport
ca pourrait etre une belle plage s'il n'y avait cette centrale electrique
c'est laid et surtout ca pue le fuel
d'une maniere generale pour voir les plus beaux paysages et etre tranquile il faut fuire le nord de la crete sur-exploites et massacres par l'urbanisme hotellier
pour revnir au premer post en effet se concentre sur un coin preci est preferable car les distances en km n'ont rien a voir avec le temps de route, c'est long car c'est montagneux, .
pur les rando il y en a partout mais c'est vrai que dans le sud ouest il y en a de magnifiques.
samaria c'est malheureusement une autoroute mais a cote il y a d'autres gorges moins frequentees et tres jolies
d'une maniere generale pour voir les plus beaux paysages et etre tranquile il faut fuire le nord de la crete sur-exploites et massacres par l'urbanisme hotellier
pour revnir au premer post en effet se concentre sur un coin preci est preferable car les distances en km n'ont rien a voir avec le temps de route, c'est long car c'est montagneux, .
pur les rando il y en a partout mais c'est vrai que dans le sud ouest il y en a de magnifiques.
samaria c'est malheureusement une autoroute mais a cote il y a d'autres gorges moins frequentees et tres jolies
Si je puis me permettre, visiter la Crète en bus ressort de l'impossible, ou alors, vous allez passer votre temps aux arrêts de bus, parfois au plein soleil, à attendre un bus qui ne va pas où vous voulez (allez lire le grec sur les panneaux des bus) ou qui est déjà plein et qui vous demande d'attendre le bus suivant (qui est parfois à trois quart d'heure derrière), je l'ai hélas vécu la première fois où je suis allé en Crète.
Le mieux est de louer une voiture. Vous serez beaucoup plus libre de vos mouvements.
ohlala quel tableau apocalyptique non ce n'est pas vrai, les transports sont tres bien faits et confortables et les indications sont affichees en grec mais aussi en alphabet latin les horaires sont faciles a trouver sinon http://www.bus-service-crete-ktel.com/ ceci etant c'est sur que louer une voiture est le plus agreable et permet de mieux visiter MAIS ce n'est pas indispensable et les taxis ne sont pas si chers que ca, surtout quand on est plusieurs.
ohlala quel tableau apocalyptique non ce n'est pas vrai, les transports sont tres bien faits et confortables et les indications sont affichees en grec mais aussi en alphabet latin les horaires sont faciles a trouver sinon http://www.bus-service-crete-ktel.com/ ceci etant c'est sur que louer une voiture est le plus agreable et permet de mieux visiter MAIS ce n'est pas indispensable et les taxis ne sont pas si chers que ca, surtout quand on est plusieurs.
le seul truc qui me gene est que certaines zones me seront pas visibles sans voiture...
tu n'y reste que 12 jours il faut donc faire des compromis
c'est sur qu'avoir une voiture a disposition 24/24h c'est le confort mais c'est a calculer
en plus lors d'une rando c'est un peu casse tete, tu deposes ta voiture a l'entree d'une gorge et tu te retouves 4/6h plus tard en bas/haut et ta voiture de l'autre cote
une voiture de location va te couter environ 30 euros/jours, oui je sais il y a moins cher mais bon conduire en montagne avec une voiture de tres bas de gamme franchement c'est pas le pied et a la limite dangereux.
12x30= 360 euros donc soit tu as les moyens soit tu geres autrement
les transports en communs coutent en general 5/10 euros par personne, un txi entre 30/60 euros selon les trajets inter villes. les transports en communs ont des contraintes horaires, si tu accepte de te lever tot, parfois c'est tout bon :)
tu n'y reste que 12 jours il faut donc faire des compromis
c'est sur qu'avoir une voiture a disposition 24/24h c'est le confort mais c'est a calculer
en plus lors d'une rando c'est un peu casse tete, tu deposes ta voiture a l'entree d'une gorge et tu te retouves 4/6h plus tard en bas/haut et ta voiture de l'autre cote
une voiture de location va te couter environ 30 euros/jours, oui je sais il y a moins cher mais bon conduire en montagne avec une voiture de tres bas de gamme franchement c'est pas le pied et a la limite dangereux.
12x30= 360 euros donc soit tu as les moyens soit tu geres autrement
les transports en communs coutent en general 5/10 euros par personne, un txi entre 30/60 euros selon les trajets inter villes. les transports en communs ont des contraintes horaires, si tu accepte de te lever tot, parfois c'est tout bon :)
me voilà donc de retour...
les + et les moins que j'ai aimé :
Rethymno : à part qqs maisons et qqs rues sympas, j'ai trouvé la ville horriblement surbondée de magasins de fringues, de bijoux, y a que ça !!! ça denature completement le lieu. le soi-disant port venitien... mouais, je dis pas avant mais là, c'est plus un etalage de bars sur lr port ! La canee : j'ai principalement aimé le coin du phare et le port, à la tombee de la nuit, c'est tres beau, y a des groupes de musiques qui y jouent aussi, sympa. Heraklion : pas d'interet, bruyant, les avions qui nous passent au dessus de la tete !! horrrible.. attention ;le musee archéologique etant en restauration, ils ont ouvert un mini musee temporaire... j'ai eté déçu de ne pas pouvoir voir tout..... le prix par contre, ils l'ont pas baissé !!!! plage de Fallasarma, belle plage, pas bcp de monde Preveli, coin sympa aussi..
suis allé aussi dans le petit village Agyrioupolis, tres beau... j'ai finalement rien loué, et on s'en sort tres bien avec les bus, qui sont ok, climatisés, et a l'heure..
Rethymno : à part qqs maisons et qqs rues sympas, j'ai trouvé la ville horriblement surbondée de magasins de fringues, de bijoux, y a que ça !!! ça denature completement le lieu. le soi-disant port venitien... mouais, je dis pas avant mais là, c'est plus un etalage de bars sur lr port ! La canee : j'ai principalement aimé le coin du phare et le port, à la tombee de la nuit, c'est tres beau, y a des groupes de musiques qui y jouent aussi, sympa. Heraklion : pas d'interet, bruyant, les avions qui nous passent au dessus de la tete !! horrrible.. attention ;le musee archéologique etant en restauration, ils ont ouvert un mini musee temporaire... j'ai eté déçu de ne pas pouvoir voir tout..... le prix par contre, ils l'ont pas baissé !!!! plage de Fallasarma, belle plage, pas bcp de monde Preveli, coin sympa aussi..
suis allé aussi dans le petit village Agyrioupolis, tres beau... j'ai finalement rien loué, et on s'en sort tres bien avec les bus, qui sont ok, climatisés, et a l'heure..
Bonsoir
Bon qu as tu aime de la crete? et quels endroits sympas conseillerais tu dans le nord ouest (je connais la partie est)
je pars lundi pour 11 JOURS avec loc de voiture
Urgence !!!!
merci Emma
Bon qu as tu aime de la crete? et quels endroits sympas conseillerais tu dans le nord ouest (je connais la partie est)
je pars lundi pour 11 JOURS avec loc de voiture
Urgence !!!!
merci Emma
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After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
hi
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
Maya and Sullivan
Maya and Sullivan
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!





