j'envisage un voyage en iran pour 2014, et j'ai voulu cette semaine acheter un LP ou un GDR, mais les éditions sont très anciennes, et j'imagine que beaucoup de renseignements ne sont plus valides. Est ce que vous pourriez m'indiquer si un guide a été réedité recemment ?
je vous remercie, et bien entendu, reviendrais vers vous quand mon projet sera plus abouti et après avoir lu deja beaucoup de vos posts, merci, jeanne
Pour ma part j'ai le LP en anglais qui date de 2012 et le formidable guide culturel de l'Iran (mais qui, comme son nom l'indique, n'a rien de "pratique"): http://guidecultureldeliran.over-blog.com/
Ces derniers temps, compte tenu du taux d'inflation, il est illusoire pour un guide de voyage d'être à jour pour les prix. La solution, c'est d'établir son référentiel dans les 2 premiers jours pour les petites dépenses.
Pour les hébergements et pour les transports, je suggère de solliciter des retours d'expérience récents sur Voyage-Forum. Surtout pour les transports à négocier (taxi, savari privé), en ayant pas exemple une idée du prix au km. Quand c'est un transport partagé, se soucier auprès des autres passagers de ce qu'il faut payer. Pour les lignes publiques (train, autocar, minibus, autobus en ville, métro), le prix ne se négocie pas.
Hormis ce point, restent valides :
- les descriptions de sites,
- les plans de ville,
- les indications d'hébergements (exception sans doute pour Mashad, ville de pèlerinage où cela change vite)
- les moyens de transport.
La localisation des cyber n'est plus trop un problème car ils se sont multipliés.
Pour les horaires de train, voir la mise à jour sur le site web d'Iranian Railways. Quelques extensions de lignes de train ou de métro, mais c'est très limité.
Par contre, valider auprès d'interlocuteurs locaux la localisation des gares routières (gros changements à Yazd et à Khoy par ex. entre 2007 et 2010), et surtout des départs de savaris (faciles à déplacer).
Certes, ce n'est pas idéal, mais c'est praticable. En 2010, je n'ai quasiment pas eu de problèmes pour voyager avec un Lonely Planet de 2004. Il suffisait de multiplier les prix par 3. J'avais par contre été plus gêné par quelques erreurs grossières, soit de l'auteur, soit de la traduction française (pour Tabriz, le Town Hall avait été traduit en "salle municipale" au lieu de Hôtel de Ville, lieu où se trouve entre autres l'intéressant Musée du Tapis).
un grand merci a toi et a coyotte. Je crois que ta proposition va mieux me convenir, autant, j arrive a tout à fait bien me débrouiller à "l'oral" car a la tete de son interlocuteur, on voit si l'on n'est pas très explicite, autant sur un guide papier, je risque de faire une erreur d'interprétation et personne ne sera la pour la corriger. Donc des lundi, je vais aller chercher le lonely ancien que mon gentil libraire propose même de me solder. J'ai deja lu, pas mal de post, et j'ai vu que tu intervenais beaucoup, donc on aura l'occasion de dialoguer à nouveau si tu le veux bien. Je viens de décider de partir 15 jours en mai, j'imagine que ce doit être la haute saison, est ce qu il est mieux que je prenne mon billet d'avion des maintenant, d'autant plus que les deux premières propostions sont deja bien differentes l'une de l'autre pegasus 250 euros (est ce qu'il peut y avoir des problemes ???) et la seconde lufthansa 680...) ca fait une sacré différence d'autant plus que les horaires de la première me conviennent tout à fait....
Haute saison ? Je ne sais pas trop. En tout cas, pas à mon avis pour les vols Europe -> Téhéran, car les européens ne prennent pas tant de vacances que cela en Mai.
Dans le transport aérien, il y a des différences de prix rationnelles du fait du modèle économique des compagnies, par ex. ici Pegasus est la grande compagnie low-cost de Turquie. Ce qui veut dire que la compagnie est très compétitive à la base par son mode de fonctionnement et sa jeunesse, mais ce qui signifie aussi que le prix est "nu" et qu'il peut y avoir pour toi de nombreux suppléments en fonction des prestations non incluses dont tu peux avoir besoin. Par ex. repas à bord.
Par ailleurs, les prix des billets sont fluctuants dans le temps selon les taux de remplissage et les actions commerciales. Mais je ne peux te renseigner quant aux tendances sur l'année, n'ayant acheté mes billets pour Téhéran qu'au dernier moment, une fois obtenu le visa iranien (il n'y avait pas de visa à l'arrivée à l'époque). Le mieux est faire une veille tarifaire, par ex. via le moteur de VF.
Reste que le tarif de Pegasus me semble très très attractif (logique pour un low-cost très longtemps à l'avance). A étudier avec les suppléments requis.
Au-delà du tarif et de la sécurité de la compagnie (mais plus trop un souci si elle a son autorisation de vol dans l'UE), j'ai pour habitude de sélectionner via la praticité des horaires et temps de vol. Privilégiant ceux qui me permettent une nuit pleine pendant le vol. Pour cela, un transit par Istanbul n'est pas pratique car coupant le vol en 2 moitiés trop courtes pour se reposer. Ainsi, j'avais préféré passer par Austrian Airlines (de quoi faire provision au retour de Sacher Torte à Vienne ;-), puis par Aeroflot (transit pénible à Moscou). J'ai aussi failli voler sur Azerbaïdjan Airlines.
A noter que Iran Air peut se révéler compétitif pour un vol direct. Si tu peux t'ajuster à leurs jours d'exploitation sur Paris (Mardi et Vendredi je crois).
moi je pars , mercredi 2 avec le LP en anglais acheté d'occas, edition 2012 (du coup je fais de progres en anglais)
le pf est en réédition et sans doute pour 2014, disponible
mais l'essentiel de ma préparation a été faite, avant de l'avoir, sur le forum et sur des blogs, en faisant beaucoup de recherches internet
l'expérience aussi montre que souvent les habitants des pays que l'on découvre sont intéressés de voir ce qui est dit sur eux, et cela devient aussi un outils de communication
en fait, je ne peux pas chercher un vol direct..;car je suis marseillaise, donc la "proposition" de pegasus est depart marseille 1.55, arrivee 5.55 a istambul istambul 23.05 arrivee 3.35 a teheran...donc toute une journee a istambul...je n imagine pas en sortir...c vrai que ca n est pas le meilleur timing, mais il y a une telle difference entre la première et la seconde proposition qui n est pas si geniale avec lufthansa
marseille 18.50 frankfort 20.35 tres bien une nuit a frankfort (y a t il un hotel dans l aeroport ou pres, est ce que je peux en sortir ?
puis départ le lendemain 17.50 arrivee 1.15 je pers un jour, mais je suis certainement moins fatiguée, je réfléchis encore, mais vos avis m'interessent (le prix passe du simple au double mais c un critère pas vraiment determinant..)
Si tu s un jour à Istanbul, il faut visiter la ville. Par le métro, il faut moins d'une heure de l'aéroport à la Mosquée Bleue & Sainte Sophie. Avec le passeport français, pas besoin de visa, ils tamponnent et c'est tout. Perso, je vais en Iran fin avril avec trois jours à Istanbul avant. Vols avec Turkish Airlines il me semble. Je vis en Irlande donc je fais Dublin > Istanbul et Istanbul > Téhéran
...je connais deja istambul et je pense y aller une semaine en juin, mon probleme etant que je ne peux consacrer a mon voyage en iran que 2 semaines entre un lundi et un vendredi (c est a dire un seul week end...) donc je voudrais trouver au départ de marseille le vol le plus direct (mais je ne peux éviter au moins un transfert...je crois que marseille teheran n est pas prevu en vol direct pour cette année😉avec les horaires les moins fatiguant possible, ce qui n 'est pas gagné, ni avec pegasus ni avec lufthansa (propositions de go voyage) mais je vais continuer a chercher...merci en tous cas, jeanne
Pour ma part, j'ai acheté un guide "OLIZANE - découverte de l'Iran". C'est un guide 100% culturel... donc peu de changements depuis sa dernière édition en 2006. Seulement 4 pages de conseils d' hôtelssur les 300 pages du guide. Papier glacé, belles photos, 27€. Un bon complément du LP.
Bonne préparation pour ce voyage,
FRED!
je pense que ca va etre mon choix, ce guide culturel d'une part, complété par une "vieille" édition LP, et tous les interlocuteurs de VF...merci et bonne soirée a toi , jeanne
Hello Fellow Travelers,
I’ve just returned from a week-long trip to Azerbaijan, covering both Baku and the country’s main sights.
Contrary to what the "Travel Advisory" from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs says, you can travel everywhere safely—the Azerbaijanis are lovely to foreigners, and the police are absolutely helpful.
Just follow the local laws, as you would anywhere, to avoid any trouble.
I highly recommend visiting this stunning country.
Antoine
Hi,
We’re supposed to go to Oman from October 17th to 30th for a 4x4 road trip. We’d already bought our flight tickets before the war started... We’re looking for recent traveler feedback from anyone who’s been there lately. Obviously, we plan to avoid areas around American military bases as well as the Salalah, Duqm, Musandam regions, and the border with Yemen.
Thanks in advance for your input.
lili
Hello, we’re two senior couples who often travel with a guide and driver. For this trip to Oman, though, we’d like (for various reasons) to have a fixed base and visit the must-sees with a local guide but on a hub-and-spoke basis. Do you think that’s possible, and what would be the best place to stay?
We’ll be in Oman for 7 days in March 2026.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Hi there,
This year we want to go to Georgia. We have a ticket to Istanbul and would prefer to avoid an Istanbul/Tbilisi flight to see a bit of Turkey, which I love.
I found a train from Ankara to Kars (25h): why not?
But how do we cross the border: which town? Is it easy (or not)?
I’m leaning toward Batumi, but I’m not sure about anything—thanks for your tips!
Thanks for your insights
I’m planning a two-week trip to Iran in September and I’m reaching out for some valuable tips....
After doing a bit of research, I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary.
I plan to spend 2–3 days in Tehran, then head down to Isfahan for 4–5 days with an overnight stop in Kashan. After that, I’m thinking of going to Shiraz for 2–3 days, including a visit to Persepolis.
Then back to Tehran with a 2-day stop in Yazd.
What do you think? Is this doable? Are there any other must-see spots?
The north, with Tabriz and Masuleh, also caught my eye, but what should I cut to fit them in?
If you have any recommendations for high-quality, authentic hotels, I’d love to hear them.
And one last (silly) question—I’m a smoker (unfortunately!), so is it allowed for women to smoke in Iran? If so, under what conditions?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I’m all ears for any advice!
hi,
do we absolutely have to get the ETA before traveling to Israel these days?
some people say it’s not mandatory, others say it is.
any feedback, please?
thanks
Hey everyone!
A comeback after so many years... but my question is simple:
"Has anyone wandered around these two countries recently? (The posts and travel journals I’ve read are a bit dated.) I’m planning a trip for late spring—one I had mapped out for 2023 but never got to do.
For any info on transportation, border crossings, cost of living, and interesting hostel/GH addresses, thanks in advance! 😉
Hi,
We’ve got flight tickets for a two-week trip to Georgia from April 8th to 23rd.
Should we go ahead with our trip or postpone it to September, given what’s been happening in the Persian Gulf since late February 2026?
Are there any impacts in Georgia?
Thanks for your help
Hi there, I’d like to spend a few days in these two countries. How many days do you recommend? Any ideas for things to see? Which airline should I take to go from one to the other? I think there are no more direct flights? Thanks
Hi,
We’re heading to Asia this summer, and to avoid arriving in the middle of the night, we’ve decided to stop over in Dubai for a day and a half on the way there and back. Any ideas for activities during this super-hot period? Bonus points if they’re reasonably priced 🙂 Which neighborhood is best to stay in?
Thanks in advance, and have a great day!
Bruno
We visited the northern/northeast part of Oman, the most touristy area, last February over 11 days there. It’s a great time to go because the temperatures are pleasant and there aren’t too many tourists, even though the country is only just starting to develop its image. 11 days was enough for us to see the essentials, but you can always extend your stay depending on what you want.
2 days in Muscat, 2 days in the desert—we would’ve happily stayed longer—2 days in the mountains, 3 days in the wadis, and the rest for the cities, villages, and the coast.
Oman offers stunning landscapes and a genuinely warm welcome. We always felt safe, never experienced any malicious looks or gestures.
As usual for our trips, we chose to organize everything ourselves but with a guide to better explore and soak up the local culture.
The point of my post isn’t to recount our journey but to encourage and reassure anyone considering this destination.
If I can be of help, I’m happy to answer your questions based on what I know.
Living in Amman, Jordan, I’d like to visit Jerusalem and the surrounding areas during the Christmas season.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- the security conditions in Israel/Palestine,
- sightseeing in Jerusalem during the Christmas period.
Hi! If anyone has been to Georgia recently and could tell me if it's feasible to travel around the country using public transport. My itinerary would be Kutaisi (my arrival airport), Tbilisi, Mestia, Ushguli, Batumi, and back to Kutaisi (departure airport) in ten days. My flight arrives late at night, around 1 AM—would it be possible to take a taxi to get to the city center?
Any advice is welcome, and regarding the language, can you get by with English? Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone, I’m married to a Kurd from Iraq, and we’re heading to Kurdistan in November with our two-and-a-half-year-old son. Even though I’m really excited about this trip and happy to go, I’m a bit nervous because as a European woman, I feel like there’s nothing to do and I have this image of a dangerous country… To put my mind at ease, I’d love to chat with other Europeans who’ve been there. Thanks! !
Hi there
Does anyone know if it's allowed to use a drone (under 250 g) in Oman?
If so, is there any registration required for the device?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Laurent
Hi there,
We’re traveling from 12/23/2025 to 1/9/2025 in Oman.
However, our flight lands in Dubai.
So I’m looking for a car rental company that allows crossing the border into the Sultanate of Oman.
Thanks for your recommendations!
I think I saw there’s also the option of vehicles with rooftop tents…
Hello... nothing new for several
years now...
Can you go there independently from the rest of the country? Any recent experiences, either in Kurdistan or the rest of Iraq?
Thanks a lot
Hi, we’re traveling to Georgia soon and want to go to Azerbaijan. I’m having trouble finding info on crossing the border.
Is it possible to do it by car or train? Are the land borders between the two countries open? Or do we have to fly?
Thanks in advance
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon.
Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations).
I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Hello everyone,
We’re just back from a wonderful adventure exploring Wadi Rum.
We spent 3 days and 2 unforgettable nights there. Our guide, Mohamad, introduced us to the desert—its beauty, its mysteries—with rare skill, kindness, and generosity. We hiked through breathtakingly beautiful places, slept in a Bedouin tent and under the stars, enjoyed delicious meals, and shared moments of incredible quality.
Mohamad honored us by sharing songs, poems, and stories, and introducing us to his family. His humor, life philosophy, and empathy will stay with us forever.
Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had.
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip.
Michèle
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
Hi everyone!
I’m giving this a shot, hoping to get some answers that can help clear things up.
We’re planning a trip to Oman in February and want to rent a car.
The catch is we probably won’t have received our international driving permits in time.
After some research, we still can’t figure out if there are any rental companies that only require a French license...
or possibly a certified translation of it.
Given that the French license is recognized in Oman, we’re hoping for some advice.
Any tips would be hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance to those who can help!
Best regards,
Olyana
Hi there, 😄
my friend and I are leaving in 15 days for Kurdistan, by road, in our little converted van... The only thing we're sure of (well, the only thing we've actually thought about! The adventures will take care of the rest!) is that we're planning to take a month to get there, 15 days on site to visit my sister-in-law who's been living there as a teacher for a year! and 15 days to rush back, because my boyfriend has to go back to work on November 3rd!! After that, the itinerary isn't set yet—I've just bought a map of Europe... and still haven't found one of Kurdistan! or Iraq! I just finished work yesterday... and until now, this trip felt so far away... I didn't imagine much about it... I kept telling myself, "You'll see when you're done working, your brain will be more available!" Well, now my brain is in "gooo go go!" mode 😮 and it's going fast! I've got tons of questions popping up all at once!
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide!
- Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss?
- The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa?
- The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming!
- Why not Couchsurfing?
- Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla...
- Will the van hold up? 😐
- Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!
