2011 : trois semaines en Namibie, inoubliables.
Quatre ans après une folle envie de revenir en Afrique australe, donc en novembre, cap sur l'Afrique du Sud pour mon compagnon et moi. Après lecture de guides et de vos carnets de voyage, l'itinéraire commence à se dessiner. Les grandes idées : à l'Est toute (Le Cap, le KTP et Le Namaqualand, se sera pour un prochain voyage), envie de nature / de paysages / de randonnées et de faune.
Je soumets donc maintenant à votre œil critique l'itinéraire prévu, loin d'être définitif.
Le sens anti-horaire est volontaire : on voulait plutôt "finir" par le Krüger. Qu'en dites-vous (vis à vis de la saison notamment) ?
V6 Vol Paris-Jo'burg
S7 Clarens
D8 Drakensberg - Royal Natal Park
L9 Drakensberg - Royal Natal Park
M10 Drakensberg - Giant's Castle
M11 St Lucia
J12 St Lucia - Imfolozi
V13 St Lucia - Cape Vidal
S14 Swaziland - Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
D15 Swaziland - Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
L16 Kruger - Skukuza
M17 Blyde river Canyon - Graskop
M18 Blyde river Canyon - Graskop
J19 Kruger (Satara)
V20 Kruger (Letaba / Olifants)
S21 Kruger (Mopani)
D22 Kruger (Punda Maria)
L23 Mapungubwe
M24 Mapungubwe
M25 Waterberg
J26 Waterberg
V27 Vol Jo'burg - Paris
Mes premières questions :
- Y a-t-il des étapes qui vous semblent mal équilibrées (trop de distance / peu de temps sur place vs intérêt du lieu) ?
- Avez-vous des suggestions pour les camps du Kruger (par défaut j'ai mis les "gros") ?
- Partie Limpopo (4 derniers jours) : les choix des deux destinations ne sont pas du tout fixés, l'idée serait d'avoir 2 dernières étapes "cools" dans des parcs/réserves aux paysages différents offrant la possibilité de randonnée à la journée. Des suggestions ?
- Swaziland : même idée que précédemment. L'objectif est d'avoir une étape entre l'océan et le Krüger avec possibilité de petite randonnée dans paysage sympa et tranchant avec l'avant et l'après. Des suggestions à nouveau ?
Voici pour la première salve de questions.
Au plaisir de vous lire. :)
Bonjour,
Pour répondre à vos questions, tout d'abord novembre est une belle saison, pas encore trop chaud surtout pour le nord, et des herbes pas trop hautes dans le Kruger.
1) si vous arrivez par le vol de paris le matin, vous pouvez récupérer votre voiture et aller sur Clarens, ce n'est pas très loin et ça vous fait gagner une journée
2) De Giants castle, j'irai plutôt à Hluhluwe Imfolozi d'abord avec une nuit sur place, puis St Lucia ensuite
3) Pour traverser le Swaziland, arrêtez-vous à Manzini (super lodge) et sortez le lendemain par le border post de Jeepes reef ce qui donnerait , plus logiquement:
L16 Lower sabie rest camp (très agréable)
M17 Skukuza
M18 Blyde river canyon en sortant par Phabeni Gate, Hazyview et balade jusqu'à Hoedspruit; à mon avis une bonne journée suffit et vous pouvez dormir dans les environs de Hoespruit, il y a plein de lodges sympas
J19 Satara
V20 Olifants (le mieux à mon avis)
S21 Mopani
D22 Punda maria
Vos 4 derniers jours sont un peu redondants après 6 jours dans le Kruger.
A côté de Louis Trichard, en pays Vanda, il y a le Leshiba Wilderness, pas trop cher et vraiment dépaysant.
Le propriétaire est un passionné...
Juste un avis, qui n'est que le mien, le Swaziland ça va juste pour traverser, sinon, rien d'exceptionnel et les paysages montagneux sont un peu monotones.
Nous y serons nous aussi un mois à cette période, mais cette fois-ci nous faisons une boucle vers le Cap par la Wild coast .
N'hésitez pas si vous avez des questions; je peux aussi vous renseigner sur les logements, j'en connais quelques-uns sur votre parcours.
Pour le Kruger, dépêchez-vous afin d'avoir de bons emplacements; il y a déjà beaucoup de réservations!
Au premier voyage on découvre, au second on s'enrichit.
(proverbe touareg)
Pas la peine de sortir du kruger pour y rentrer à nouveau. Je préconise de rester au moins deux nuits par camps, concentrez vous sur la partie sud du parc où il y a une forte concentration d'animaux
Bonjour,
Merci beaucoup pour ces deux premières réponses. 🙂
à Mofiman :
1- oui, on arrive le S7 à Johannesbourg à 11h10, donc trajet prévu le jour-même de l’atterrissage et dodo à Clarens.
2- option que je vais étudier avec attention !
3- 1 seule nuit au Swaziland ? A-t-on vraiment le temps de profiter de l'étape ? Je note ton adresse, et également ta revue d'itinéraire Kruger/Blyde.
Le but des 4 derniers jours n'est pas de faire des game drives, mais plutôt de se poser dans 1 ou 2 endroits avec paysages sympas pour se reposer et randonner (type Namtib en Namibie).
Et bien plus que 5 mois à patienter pour nous deux !
Merci, je n’hésiterai pas à faire appel à vos connaissances !
à Rjulie95 :
Je suis assez d'accord avec l'idée des 2 jours par camp au Krüger, mais entre cette considération et le fait que malgré le probable nombre réduit de rencontres faunistiques dans le Nord, on ait envie de varier les paysages et donc les habitats dans le Kruger, on se retrouve pris en étau !
Aaaah que de choix à faire (mais bon, c'est ça qui fait entre autre, e plaisir de la préparation des voyages) ! 😉
Le nord du Krüger a aussi son intérêt
Bien sûr la faune est un peu plus dispersée, moi c'est là que j'ai pu observer les plus beaux troupeaux de buffles ainsi que des familles entières de babouins.Les camps sont plus simples, mais très reposants.
Comme vous vouliez voir Blyde canyon il m'a semblé logique de sortir "sur le chemin"
De toute façon, il faut faire le calcul, mais la wild card sera sûrement intéressante.
Le Swaziland, c'est une affaire de goût...
Bonne préparation
Au premier voyage on découvre, au second on s'enrichit.
(proverbe touareg)
Selon l'heure d'arrivée il est envisageable d'aller directement au Royal Natal.
Giant's Castle / St Lucia cela fait une belle journée de route mais Giant's Castle c'est bien.
Effectivement pourquoi ne pas s'arrêtre directement au Hluhluwe et loger au Hiltop ou Umfolozi au camp...sauf que celà fait 2 jours à payer sans être exploités dans le parc...
En partant très, très tôt de St Lucia on peut être au petit matin au Hluhluwe Umfolozi...
Ce que j'avais fait c'était...Drakensberg / St Lucia puis de St Lucia, une nuit au Hluhluwe puis départ vers le Swaziland (on est sur la Nationale !).
Pour le Swaziland...J'irais pour une nuit à Hlane. Pas cher, des animaux, des balades à pied avec les girafes...
Du Swaziland j'irai à Graskop puis dans le Krüger.
Oui pour le Mapungubwe... A Louis Tritchard il y a une petite guest house dont je peux retrouver le nom.
Puis descente vers le Waterberg où j'irais d'une traite pour 2 nuits au Marakele.
Merci pour vos commentaires et suggestions. Ils m'ont bien aidé pour affiner notre itinéraire, que voici en version 5 ou 6 ... déjà !
Jour Activité / Nuit
V6 Décollage Paris 23h30
S7 Arrivée Jo'Burg 11h10 - Trajet et nuit vers Royal Natal National Park
D8 Rando Amphithéâtre (?) - Royal Natal National Park
L9 Trajet vers Giant's Castle - Giant's Castle
M10 Rando dans Giant's Castle - Giant's Castle
M11 Trajet et nuit vers Hluhluwe - Imfolozi
J12 Hluhluwe - Imfolozi park - nuit à St Lucia
V13 Isimangaliso - nuit à St Lucia
S14 Trajet et nuit vers Swaziland - Hlane
D15 Journée et nuit à Hlane
L16 Trajet et nuit vers Kruger - Lower Sabie
M17Krüger vers Blyde River Canyon - Graskop
M18 Blyde River Canyon et retour Kruger - Satara
J19 Kruger - Satara
V20 Kruger - Olifants
S21 Kruger- Shingwedzi
D22 Game walks - Mutale Falls
L23 Game walks - Mutale Falls
M24 Trajet pays Venda - nuit Ben Lavin Nature Reserve
M25 Waterberge - Lindani
J26 Rando Waterberge - Lindani
V27 Retour vers Jo'Burg - Décollage 19h50
Il me reste encore bien des questions :
# Trajets : il y a deux gros morceaux à mon avis dans cet itinéraire : le direct Aéroport-Royal National Park et le Giant's Castle - Hluhluwe. Voyez-vous d'autres longues journées de route ?
# Kruger : passer deux nuits sur un camp. J'hésite entre Satara et Olifants. Satara m'a l'air plus riche en terme de félins, Olifants bien plus agréable comme camp. Quelle serait votre recommandation ? Niveau disponibilité, tout va encore bien , mais je ne vais néanmoins pas tarder à réserver.
# Limpopo nord : je cherche un logement pour 2 jours à partir duquel il y a possibilité de balades/randos accompagnées ou non avec paysages et faune, avec des tarifs raisonnables, entre Pafuri et Musina. J'ai une adresse (cf ci-dessus), mais si vous avez d'autres suggestions, je suis toute ouïe. J'ai écarté le Mapungubwe, car nous ne souhaitons pas faire "encore" du drive après la partie Kruger.
# Waterberge : idem, le but n'est pas du drive, mais de la balade/rando non accompagné avec paysages sympas. Idem, ci-dessus, j'ai une première adresse, votre carnet d'adresses peut-être d'autres...
Ne connaissant pas les Mutale Falls...c'est peut-être très bien
Pour le logement dans le Krüger je jour mon joker...je ne suis pas très Krüger itself mais plus RP du coin ou dans le Krüger.
Sur ce que je connais, 2 adresses pas coûteuses où c'est la marche à pied l'activité principale.
1. Louis Trichardt avec Madi a Thavha. Le Soutpansberg permet plein de randos et de cette guest house il y a déjà de quoi faire. Les gens étaient très sympas du moins il y a maintenant 6 ans...Donc on zappe Musina (intérêt ???) et la Ben Lavin...je ne suis pas certain de la pertinence de ce choix sans y être allé certes mais en l'ayant vu d'assez prêt.
2. Kurisa Moya, cabanes perdues dans la forêt...Là encore c'est balades sur place ou dans ce coin...
Accueil très sympa...toujours à cette époque. Du Kurisa vers Joburg pour le retour, c'est ok.
Ceci dit Lindani près de Vaalwater, c'est peut-être très bien...en tous les cas le Waterberg peut-être une bonne destination.
Des photos et quelques anecdotes dans mon précédent carnet (plutôt sur la fin). page 17.
Aéroport vers Royal Natal...c'est pas un très gros morceaux, on le fait assez facilement.
De Giant à St Lucia...Rejoindre Mooï River puis couper à travers le pays zoulou par Greytown, KwaDukuza.
Bonjour,
Je viens de découvrir votre parcours. Nous souhaitons partir avec mon conjoint au mois de novembre pour 1 mois en Afrique du sud.
Nous essayons de trouver quel serait notre budget sur un itinéraire à peut près comme le votre. Avez vous une idées de votre budget pour ces 3 semaines hors billets d avions? Merci!!
Au gré des recherches et réponses (merci Michel 🙂), notre itinéraire a encore un peu évolué. Il est maintenant pratiquement finalisé, puisque la large majorité des hébergements a été réservée.
Le voici :
V6 Décollage Paris 23h30
S7 Arrivée Jo'Burg 11h10 - Trajet et nuit vers Royal Natal National Park - Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge
D8 Rando Amphithéâtre (?) - Royal Natal National Park - Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge
L9 Trajet vers Giant's Castle - Giant's Castle
M10 Rando dans Giant's Castle - Giant's Castle
M11 Trajet et nuit vers Hluhluwe - Imfolozi - Mpila Camp (self catered)
J12 Hluhluwe - Imfolozi park - nuit à St Lucia - Zulani Guest House (B&B)
V13 Isimangaliso - nuit à St Lucia - Zulani Guest House (B&B)
S14 Trajet et nuit vers Swaziland - Mbuluzi - Leadwood Lodge (self catered)
D15 Journée Hlane/Mbuluzi et nuit à Mbuluzi - Leadwood Lodge (self catered)
L16 Trajet et nuit vers Krüger - Lower Sabie
M17 Krüger vers Blyde River Canyon - Graskop - Zur alten Mine (B&B)
M18 Blyde River Canyon et retour Krüger - Satara
J19 Krüger - Olifants
V20 Krüger - Olifants
S21 Krüger- Shingwedzi
D22 Krüger - sortie par Pafuri - Mutale Falls Camp (self catered)
L23 Game walks - Mutale Falls Camp (self catered)
M24 Trajet pays Venda - nuit Louis Trichardt - Madi a Thavha Mountain Lodge (D, B&B)
M25 Waterberge - Lindani - Maroela Lodge (self catered)
J26 Rando Waterberge - Lindani - Maroela Lodge (self catered)
V27 Retour vers Jo'Burg - Décollage 19h50
En termes de budget (sur base 2 personnes) :
Total hébergements : €1,500
Vol international : €1,280
Loc voiture : €870, poste auquel il faudra ajouter le carburant que j'estime à +/- €200Nourriture : je n'intègre pas ce poste à mes budgets initiaux -sauf Norvège...- (il faut bien manger en France ou à l'étranger) 😉
Salut.
On a fait l´Afrique du Sud et le Swaziland (avec les autres pays autour) en décembre dernier.
Quand au Swaziland, pas grande chose... juste le relax... Mlilwane rien de vraiment spécial pour y rester 2 nuits...même pour la visite d´un jour... Hlane a un camping intéressant car "waterhole" avec hippos et plein de rhinos!
Les infos complètes sur le Swaziland et Afrique du Sud sont sur notre blog (prix, routes, logement, etc.). En anglais.
Bon voyage.
www.viajesconmochila.blogspot.com
Le road book prend forme, et quelques questions également :
- Trajet Giant's Castle --> Umfolozi (Mpila Camp - entrée par Cengeni Gate) : a priori, on va couper comme déjà suggéré plus haut par Mooi River - Greytown - Kranskop - puis ... ? Puis la route (untarred) qui part vers le Nord et arrive une vingtaine de km à l'ouest de Melmoth ou alors par la route qui part plus vers l'Est et arrive à Eshowe ? Avez-vous un conseil (temps de route, intérêt du parcours) ?
- Balade à cheval. Je suis une cavalière régulière, mon compagnon beaucoup-beaucoup moins. J'aimerais faire une balade de 2h max 3h mêlant paysages et animaux. Des suggestions de lieux où réaliser cette activité de façon sure et intéressante pour nous deux sur notre parcours et avec des chevaux en état ? Notre lodge à St Lucia propose de réserver ce type d'activité. Y a-t-il nécessité de réserver avant l'arrivée sur place ? Les lodges nous obtiennent-il des tarifs plus intéressants qu'en direct ?
- L'achat sur place d'une glacière pouvant être "branchée" dans la voiture semble être une bonne idée. Où faire l'achat d'un tel matériel ?
A Michel : je ne ferai sûrement un carnet fleuve (que j'adore toutefois lire) à notre retour, mais tâcherai effectivement de vous livrer mon avis pratico-pratique sur notre voyage.
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March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!