Patagonia Itinerary with a 2.5-Year-Old Baby
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Original post
MK
Hi there,

We’re a couple traveling with our 2.5-year-old baby. We’re heading to Patagonia in March or April 2026. We don’t have exact dates yet because this will be the start of a long trip around Latin America. We’ll be traveling by public transport, with our backpacks and a baby carrier for support. We’ll take a domestic flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, and the rest will be by bus.

Here’s the itinerary we’ve planned: - Buenos Aires (5 days) - Ushuaia (5 days or more) - El Calafate (3 days) - El Chaltén (5 days) - Los Antiguos + border crossing at Chile Chico - Puerto Río Tranquilo (Chile) (5 days) - Coyhaique (Chile) (3 days) - Chiloé Island (Chile) (10 days) - Puerto Varas (Chile) (3 days) - Bariloche (5 days) - San Martín de los Andes (3 days) - Mendoza (5 days)

After that, we’re thinking of spending a few days in Córdoba, then a month in Salta. We plan to head back down to Santiago (Chile) and then head north along the Chilean side toward Peru.

What do you think of this itinerary (especially the Patagonia part)? Is it doable with a young child just over 2.5 years old? I’d also love to include Esquel and El Bolsón in Argentina, but I’m not sure how to fit them in or if they’re really worth it. The durations are approximate, depending on what there is to do in each place... Do you have any suggestions for improving it or any tips?

We want to do some easy hikes or half-day walks since we won’t be able to carry him all day. That’s why we’ve intentionally left out Torres del Paine National Park (very expensive and not very baby-friendly, I think). Do you know of any hikes that are accessible with a little one?

Thanks in advance! !
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hello,

we won’t be able to carry it all day. That’s why we deliberately skipped Torres del Paine Park

It’d be a real shame to be in the area and not visit this park—it’s one of the must-sees in the region. We went there through an agency in Puerto Natales that provided us with a car and driver for a day trip without staying overnight. No doubt we didn’t see as much as we would have by hiking it thoroughly over several days, but it still allowed us to see some breathtaking landscapes among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen in my life. With this option, you walk a bit but only short distances, so no more issues with long carries or adapting for the baby. If you’re short on time, cut a little from what you’ve planned for Chiloé—it’s a really nice island, but 10 days there might be a bit much...
TH Thierry6789 Veteran ·
Hi Mkiti, Regarding Chile, I completely agree with the recommendations from my namesake. Even though Torres del Paine National Park is very expensive, it’s still worth discovering: it’s one of the most beautiful places in the country, and you can do plenty of short hikes there. You could stay in Puerto Natales and enter the park one day through the Cerro Castillo sector, and another day through the Milodón Cave sector. Years ago, I went there with my daughter, who was about three at the time, and I don’t remember having any problems. The only thing was the wind—sometimes very strong—which bothered her a bit. As for Chiloé Island, or rather the archipelago, even though I love it, I have to admit the landscapes aren’t as breathtaking as in Patagonia. You could stay in Castro, the island’s capital, and explore from there for 4 or 5 days. Maybe you could also spend a night on one of the many islands in the archipelago, which seem a bit frozen in time. But ten days does seem a bit much—you could shift 4 or 5 days to another destination. Have a great trip. Thierry
Thierry Swysen
HE Herge Veteran ·
Hi Mkiti,

Welcome to the forum, and especially to Argentina! I’m sure this country will enchant you!

It’s always tricky to plan ahead in Argentina. Of course, there are uncertainties due to the climate and/or the country’s economic or political situation, but I think the most important thing is what you’ll feel—or not—once you’re there. You’ve already set a major goal: Patagonia, so go for it and spend as much time as you want in each province you cross. Whether you’ll stay in El Calafate for 3, 4, or 5 days, or whether you’ll visit Puerto Varas or not—you’ll decide all that in the moment. Don’t forget that Argentinians, like Chileans, are very approachable, so I hope you’ll meet them and share part of your stay with them. Meeting locals can be a big part of your trip, and you might even get invited to stay with them (especially since you’re traveling with a child). So keep an open mind and never stick rigidly to dates or pre-paid flights. (That’s why you shouldn’t plan too much.)

March and April are low-season months, so there’s plenty of availability everywhere (except during Easter week, which is a bit busier). Go with the flow, and leave when you feel you’ve seen what you wanted to see. Don’t decide in advance that you’ll stay 2, 4, or 8 days in one place—you might stay longer, leave sooner, or even skip it entirely! Or better yet, you might get invited by an Argentine family to some remote spot and end up staying a week. You can’t plan for that, but it’ll probably be one of the highlights of your trip.

Will you visit the provinces of Córdoba, San Luis, San Juan, Catamarca, La Rioja, etc.? Right now, you have no idea—and that’s okay! You’ll know once you’re there.

Everything is "worth it" as long as you feel good there!

See you soon, and safe travels! I live in Buenos Aires—let me know if you need anything! (Maybe our first meet-up?)

Check out my website: www.petitherge.com

Herge !
Tout sur l Argentine, et completé 24h/24h depuis le 29 oct 2005 http://www.petitherge.com/
MK Mkiti ·
Hi, Thanks for your reply. We’ll think about whether we’ll go to Torres del Paine... For Chiloé, that’s an approximate duration, which could be shorter or longer depending on how we feel. Do you have any idea about the rate for a car with a driver? Would it be more worthwhile to rent a car for a day?

Thanks! !
MK Mkiti ·
Thanks for your tips! I’m noting down the visit to Torres del Paine: "enter one day through the Cerro Castillo sector, and another day through the Milodón Cave sector." But that means spending a night in the park—are there hotels?
MK Mkiti ·
Hi Herge,

Thanks for all these tips! I lived in Argentina (Salta) for 9 months back in 2014. But I never visited Patagonia because it was too expensive for me at the time. Now I want to make this dream come true with my husband and our baby, who’ve never been to Argentina. This will be our first long-term trip. It’s not the same as living there...

The itinerary is only in my head for now, so it’s flexible. We haven’t booked anything yet (not even the flight tickets). We’ll soon book the flights to Buenos Aires. But I’m thinking of sorting out Buenos Aires-Ushuaia once we’re there—is that a good idea? I’d like to have a rough idea of our route, even if we’ll go with the flow and let our moods and encounters guide us, both for how long we stay and where we go. I’d love to meet people and, if possible, stay with them, but I’m not sure how to go about it, especially with a little one (we still need to know where we’re sleeping...). Do you have any tips or contacts in Patagonia?

Also, I saw that the peso has really taken a hit with inflation! When I was there in 2014, it was 1 € = 10 pesos. Now it’s 1 € = 1600 pesos! I read on this forum that some people recommend using Western Union. Do you think that’s a good idea? (I’ve never used it and don’t know how it works...)

Thanks so much, and hope to meet you in Buenos Aires! :)
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Do you have any idea what the rate is for a car with a driver?

No, I don’t remember. But if I did it, it couldn’t have been too expensive compared to my far-from-unlimited travel budget.

Would it be more worthwhile to rent a car for a day?

Without a driver? The park is huge (including areas accessible by drivable roads), so you’d waste time trying to find your way. A driver, on the other hand, will know where to take you for the best views, and by the end of the day, you’ll have seen more. I’m not sure a car without a driver would be more budget-friendly than with one—it’s often not the case in many countries.
NI Nicketsand Regular ·
Hello, I’m back to talk about your itinerary. It’s a great route! I agree with the others about Torres del Paine—it’s a truly beautiful park. I visited with a group of kids aged 3 to 14, and we stayed for 4 days without doing the O or W circuit. Most hikes take less than 3 hours, but they’re not the most spectacular. The longest one we did was the trek up to the Torres: 8 hours of hiking. The 7-year-olds managed it without any issues, even with three little hikers. My 13-year-old daughter and the 3-year-old waited for us at the bottom of the round-trip trail to the Torres (near a campsite, I think)... But the "flat" route is really nice. You can find all our tested hikes here—it’ll give you a good idea.

Once there, meet up with other families so your little one feels like walking a bit on the longer hikes!

Also, make sure to start with Ushuaia—it’s the least exciting of the three (Torres, El Calafate, and El Chaltén). There’s really a logical order to keep the wonder going! You can see all these spots on my blog.

As for the petrified forests, they’re definitely off the beaten path without a vehicle! 😊
Sandrine Blog Voyages et Enfants: Voyager en famille est un jeu d'enfant!
TH Thierry6789 Veteran ·
But does that mean spending a night in the park—are there hotels?

There are hotels in the park, but they’re expensive, even *very* expensive.

I was actually thinking about the possibility of staying two nights—or more—in Puerto Natales. On the first day, heading to the park via Cerro Castillo, you could dedicate it to the Laguna Azul area and Lago Pehoé. On the second day, returning via the Milodon Cave road, you could explore the Lago Grey area.

Of course, there are plenty of other alternatives too.
Thierry Swysen
NI Nicketsand Regular ·
Sorry, I made a mistake—it was in El Chaltén that we did this hike with the 3-year-old and the 13-year-old who waited for us. In Torres del Paine, we were only with 7- and 13-year-olds! You can find all the details on my blog
Sandrine Blog Voyages et Enfants: Voyager en famille est un jeu d'enfant!
MK Mkiti ·
Hi, Thanks for this info. It was actually reading your blog that made me think Torres del Paine might not be the best fit with a little one who’s 2 and a half. Plus, you mentioned that El Chaltén is more accessible and even more stunning. For now, we haven’t decided yet—we’ll see how it goes when we’re there.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
HE Herge Veteran ·
Hi,

"I also saw that the peso has really taken a hit from inflation! When I was there in 2014, it was 1€ = 10 pesos. Now it’s 1€ = 1600 pesos!"

I’d even go so far as to say that as of December 17th, 1 euro = 1750 ARS. Actually, by the time you arrive in 4 months, the euro will likely be even stronger. So don’t buy anything right now—the clock’s ticking in your favor.

"I saw in this forum that some people recommend using Western Union. Do you agree with that advice? (I’ve never used it and don’t know how it works...)" Yes, right now, the WU rate is better than the parallel rate, so in December 2025, it’s more advantageous to pay for all your purchases in cash and use WU. I’ve already written an article about WU on my site: https://www.petitherge.com/2022/01/tout-ce-qu-il-faut-savoir-sur-western-union-en-argentine.html See you in Buenos Aires! ;-)

Hergé !
Tout sur l Argentine, et completé 24h/24h depuis le 29 oct 2005 http://www.petitherge.com/
LA Ladrech Veteran ·
Hi Rodolphe

The Western Union exchange rate keeps climbing right now— we just exchanged at 1814 ARS today, December 17th. Even after deducting the 3% fee, the rate is still higher than what you’d find at official or parallel exchange spots. The only downside with Western Union is that in very touristy places, sometimes there’s so much demand that they don’t always have enough cash on hand to serve everyone. See you soon
TH Thierry6789 Veteran ·
That’s why we deliberately left out Torres del Paine Park (very expensive and not really baby-friendly, I think).

Hello again,

Regarding Torres del Paine National Park, which was already pricey—I’ll give you that—there’s a significant price hike planned for 2026.

I just started a thread about it here: https://voyageforum.com/forum/hausse-tarifs-parc-national-torres-del-paine-d10801563/

Unfortunately, Chilean Patagonia is getting really expensive.
Thierry Swysen

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