Bonjour,
Nous allons (finalement j'ai craqué) descendre le Zambèze pendant une dizaine de jours au départ de Kariba.
Nous allons atterir un dimanche midi à Lusaka et partirons en canoé le mardi de Kariba.
Google maps annonce 3h30 de route entre Lusaka et Kariba, il y a en plus une frontière.
J'hésite à passer la 1ère nuit à Lusaka, entre Lusaka et Kariba (s'il y a un coin intéressant sur la route) ou directement à Kariba.
La 2ème nuit juste avant le départ se fera sans doute à Kariba.
Nous serons 4 : est-il envisageable de prendre un taxi/minibus pour faire le trajet?
Le passage de la frontière est-il simple et pas trop chronophage?
Où dormir à Kariba (on aura de quoi camper)?
Je ne vois que des hotels impersonnels ou des lodges plein de charme mais hors de prix.
Que faire pendant toute une journée à Kariba sans voiture perso?
La ville est-elle agréable, pas trop étendue?
Superprojet marie,
Je ne peux pas vous aider mais en tout cas je vous suivrai dans vos aventures.
Vous partez quand ?
Quel type de canoe allez-vous utiliser? location?
En fait, je crois que j'ai déjà vu un site qui évoque une descente partielle du zambèze, je cherche et ensuite je reviens te donner l'info.
Mon message a été déplacé à tort dans cette rubrique "aquatique".
Le trajet de Lusaka à Kariba se fera par la route et pour cause : pas de rivière entre ces 2 villes.
On va utiliser des canoés canadiens qu'on ne louera pas : on part avec un guide via une agence locale qui fournit tout le matos. Je ne nous vois pas gérer les hippos et les crocos tout seuls. Je ne sais d'ailleurs même pas si une telle descente serait autorisée en totale indépendance.
On part fin avril juste avant le début de la saison sèche. Pas idéal pour la faune mais des paysages plus verts et j'espère de beaux ciels et belles lumières.
Tout est OK côté rivière (bah oui c'est tout droit!)
Je m'interroge sur la meilleure façon d'arriver à Kariba, point de départ de la rando en canoé, depuis Lusaka où nous atterrirons.
Tu descends en canoe côté Manapool vers l est, pas sur le lac Kariba ?
Lusaka - Kariba : MapSource - Garmin annonce effectivement 3h50.
Ajouter temps de passage de la frontière... (une heure en moyenne pour une frontière africaine) ? Vous serez accompagnés ou en solo ? les "TO" ont plus l habitude que nous, fais toi prendre en charge à Lusaka ????
Si j'étais toi, je négocierais un Taxi en arrivant et je partirais rejoindre Kariba si j'arrivais avant Midi à Lusaka, en ayant réservé un petit hotel à Kariba.
De toutes façons, tu seras mieux à Kariba qu'à Lusaka...
Désolé.. pas beaucoup de réponse de ma part (pour l instant... 😛)
A+
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Nous partons demain pour un periple de Lusaka à Lusaka demain 27 septembre
pour ton info j'ai réservé une nuit à Siavonga c'est pas très loin de Kariba Le Barrage est à 8 kilomètres et tu es à deux trente de Lusaka et tu peux venir te faire chercher à l'aéroport par leurs soins
Salut Franck,
Oui on descend le Zambèze en aval de Kariba jusqu'à Kanyemba à la frontière du Mozambique : 263 km en 10 jours!
Je pense en effet filer directement sur Kariba : j'ai contacté plusieurs taxis et tous m'annoncent des prix incroyables (du style 500 $ one way!)
Reste la solution des transports en communs plus économiques et... exotiques!
Je continue mes recherches...
A+
Marie
Bonjour Christian,
En voilà une piste intéressante!
Peux-tu m'indiquer leurs tarifs pour une nuit (je viens de regarder en diagonale : je vois 80$/nuit/personne) et pour le transfert?
Bien sûr je serais ravie de connaitre tes impressions en général et sur ce lodge en particulier à ton retour!
Qu'avez-vous prévu en Zambie?
A+
Marie
Bonjour Michel,
As-tu toi-même utilisé ces minibus?
Par un miraculeux hasard, saurais-tu quelle est leur fréquence de départ? Si tout va pour le mieux on ne pourrait pas être à la gare routière avant 14h00 et je crains que les minibus ne partent surtout qu'en 1ère moitié de journée...
Merci!
Marie
J'ai employé les Hiace à l'aller mais depuis l'embranchement de la route pour Livingstone avec celle qui relie Kafue (town) à Siavonga-Chirundu. J'y étais sur un temps de midi.
Pour le retour, je l'ai pris pour tout le parcours, de Siavonga à Lusaka.
Le retour départ annoncé à 9h mais on quitte passé 10...et soucis technique en route, arrivée pas loin de 16...
L'aller. Ai attendu au croisement, beaucoup plus de transports vers le Sud (Choma-Livingstone) que Siavonga.
A mon avis, il y a peut-être un transport vers 16-17, le dernier de la journée mais ne sais le jurer.
Voyagez léger car il y a peu de places pour les passagers et les bagages...
un petit calendrier de notre périple
nous partons à six dans deux Land Cruiser réception des 4x4 mercredi am à Lusaka 1 nuit dans la capitale pour les courses et le temps de se préparer apres route sur Kafue 2 nuits et 1 nuit sur la T2 pour rejoindre au nord la réserve de North Luangwa NP 3 nuits , descente sur la réserve de South Luangwa 3 nuits après une nuit de repos à Chipata et les courses à refaire , 3 nuits dans la réserve de Lower Zambézi et un nuit à Eagles rest resort ( j'avais prévu une nuit dans un boat mais les prix était trop haut pour nous ) et apres retour à Lusaka le 14 octobre pour rendre le 4x4.
je te donnerais les infos en rentrant n'hésite pas à me relancer si oubli de ma part !
Zambie Lusaka à Lusaka
1 jour Lusaka nuit Chachacha 28/09
2 et 3 Makuyukuyu NP Kafue 29/09 et 30/09
4 jour de Kafue à Mpika Liaison 1/10
5 et 6 jour Camp Natwange NP North Luangwa 2/10 et 3/10
7 Chifunda Bush camp NP North Luangwa 4/10
8 Croc Valley NP South Luangwa 5/10
9 Wild life camp NP South Luangwa 6/10
10 Croc Valley ou Flatdogs NP South Luangwa 07/10
11 Chipata ville liaison nuit camp site 8/10
12 Bridge camp site liaison pour Lower Zambezi NP 9/10
13 Mvuu NP Lower Zambézi 10/10
14 Kiambia NP Lower Zambezi 11/10
15 Siavonga eagles rest camp Lac Kariba 12/10
16 Lusaka nuit Chachacha 13/10
Il n'y a d'homme plus complet que celui qui a beaucoup voyagé,
"Google maps annonce 3h30 de route entre Lusaka et Kariba, il y a en plus une frontière"
En Afrique, d'une manière générale, et même si vous possédez votre propre véhicule, il est bon de ne pas envisager les transports comme ils le sont en Europe ou en Amérique du Nord.
Les impondérables de toutes sortes sont la norme et certains trajets ne se déroulent pas nécessairement comme on s'y attendait...
Ne planifiez pas de programme "coulé dans le béton" pour vos déplacements même s'il est vrai qu'une agence permet de respecter plus ou moins un certain canevas...
Tu penses passer comment de la T2 à la vallée de la Luangwa ? Par la piste qui prend au Nord de Mpika à travers North Luangwa ? J'aimerais bien que tu me dises à ton retour comment c'était en vue de notre voyage dans la région en juillet prochain…
Une info trouvée récemment, si vous campez, les campsites de Flat Dogs sont fermés définitivement semble-t-il.
J'ai hâte lire tes impressions sur ce voyage hors du commun qui nous aurait bien tentés aussi.
Je n'ai pas de réponse à tes interrogations mais une question, même si je sais qu'il est trop tard : ce n'était pas plus simple et moins cher de passer par Johannesbourg et Harare plutôt que par Lusaka ?
Une info lue récemment : à la frontière vers Kariba, les douaniers peuvent exiger une "Police clearance" (sorte de casier judiciaire d'Afrique Australe si je comprends bien) même des Européens qui sont bien en peine de leur fournir. Enfin, même sans, ça semble passer en moins d'une heure.
Sympa, ce petit voyage qui se profile. Je me pourlèche déjà les babines à l'idée du carnet qui suivra...
Michel a raison, en Afrique, tu ne peux pas programmer un trajet avec des temps trop serrés, surtout si tu empruntes des taxis ou transports collectifs. Compte large, et si tout se passe dans les temps impartis, prévois-toi une activité supplémentaire...
C'est fou sinon le nombre de membres VF qui étaient cet été dans le SO USA et qui programment un voyage en Afrique juste après. Un logique sousterraine ? un vrai mystère en tout cas pour moi !
Dans notre cas, ce seront davantage les contrées septentrionales (Islande) qui risquent de nous accueillir à nouveau après les USA. Un peu de frais ne nuit pas... 😉
Kariba est bien plus proche de Lusaka que de Harare.
J'avais regardé le prix des vols pour Harare et c'était plus cher et moins pratique et ensuite on n'aurait encore pas été "rendus"! Traverser le Zimbabwe ne me tente pas plus que ça...
Via Joburg, plus cher aussi et moins pratique au niveau horaires de vol.
Pour nous Francfort est plus près que Paris, le parking beaucoup moins cher, l'aéroport plus ergonomique (pas difficile!) et il y a moins de grèves (j'espère ne pas me porter la poisse en disant ça!)
Ce passage de frontière a l'air assez "bon enfant", ça devrait aller (après les douaniers chiliens, je suis blindée!)
Bonne cogitation à toi dans la préparation de votre voyage!
Salut Christine!
Wouih wouih on prendra de la marge pour les transports!
En ce qui nous concerne nous sommes allés 2 fois en Afrique Australe (Afrique du sud puis Namibie) avant notre 1er voyage aux US.
Ca fera 3 partout et il est bien possible que nous allions aussi en Islande cet été!
Peu de zambiens possèdent leurs propres véhicules et sont dès lors usagers des transports collectifs.
Ils sont globalement développés mais il va de soi que vous êtes loin de la rigueur suisse.
En général, les "time bus" sont ponctuels (départs "garantis" à l'heure dite) mais certaines compagnies sont on ne peut plus folkloriques. Si vous tombez sur une d'entre elles, vous partirez quand vous partirez...
Les Hiace (camionnette Toyota à 12 places + 3 additionnelles) sont des alternatives aux bus mais j'espère que vous avez des dons de contorsionnistes car entre bagages et passagers, il faut pouvoir trouver la bonne position.
Le camion-stop. Utile principalement pour le nord (au delà de Serenje) mais à proscrire totalement (danger+++) entre Kafué (les gorges) et la route pour Siavonga. Vous allez vite comprendre lorsque vous croiserez votre première carcasse...ou éviterez un semi couché sur la route...
Pour le reste, vous êtes en Afrique. Il faut faire avec mais c'est aussi le charme de ce continent.
Juste pour terminer, il existe également des bus de plus petites capacités (le modèle plus petit que les coachs interurbains) que vous croisez à Lusaka mais qui assurent aussi des liaisons interurbaines (mais ne sais vous dire ce qu’il en est des fréquences) Un peu à l’image des Coaster que vous connaissez peut-être.
Ne vous précipitez pas dessus car il n’y a pas de place pour les bagages (vos sacs) et, sur certains, absolument tout l’espace au sol disponible est consacré aux passagers (pas de couloir)
Concrètement, cela signifie que vous devrez garder « tout votre barda » sur vos genoux et que si vous n’êtes pas très douée (sans critique aucune), vous risquez d’assommer vos voisins une fois que vous allez quitter le véhicule, avec toutes vos affaires, en tentant d’éviter tout le monde assis dans le bus. C’est du sport, croyez-moi…
En résumé, favorisez les coachs si c’est possible puis seulement le Hiace (mais évitez de faire des centaines de bornes car c’est totalement inconfortable). Pour votre parcours, le camion-stop (payant) est à éviter.
Concernant un sentiment d’insécurité routier, vous ne le ressentez quasi pas. Eventuellement dans l’un ou l’autre Hiace, surchargé et roulant, parfois, un peu trop vite.
Si vous avez déjà voyagé ailleurs sur la planète, vous ne risquez pas plus en Zambie.
Je rentre de Zambie, où nous avons parcouru le trip classique Livinsgtone, Lower Zambezi, Kafue, South Luangwa, et c'était vraiment génial, notamment la South Luangwa qui est un zoo à ciel ouvert.
Je vois que tu hésitais pour ton logement à South Luangwa. Flatsdogs (où nous étions) est vraiment très très bien, superbe emplacement, très pratique car à 2 mn de l'entrée du parc, et nous avons admiré autour du lodge voire dans le lodge des éléphants, hippos, girafes, ... En revanche ils ne font plus camping donc si vous êtes en 4*4 il faudra aller ailleurs. Si vous allez dans la Kafue, Mayukuyuku est très bien, nous y avons passé trois nuits, mais il semble que le Kaingu lodge soit un peu mieux placé... Je vous recommande de prendre un chauffeur à la journée ou la demi-journée pour vous guider sur les pistes, et n'imaginez pas aller aux Busanga Plains (c'était notre rêve et nous avons déchanté ) : presque une journée de route aller simple! Il y a de toutes façons une densité d'animaux moindre dans la Kafue, mais la région est très belle, et vous y verrez des antilopes que nous n'avons pas vu ailleurs, notamment des bubales (Hartebeest).
Mvuu au Lower Zambezi est également un très bon lodge, le trip en canoë est à faire absolument, et la sortie pêche au tigerfish à recommander : c'est très amusant et assez physique quand la bête tire sur la ligne.
Dernier point, tu as bien fait d'éviter d'aller à Eureka à Lusaka, ce sont des voleurs!
Surtout profitez-en bien, ce pays est extraordinaire!
Nous rentrons tout juste d'un voyage (top) 4x4 selfdrive en Zambie/Zimbabwe et nous avons également fait un trip de 4 jours en canoë de Kariba à Mana Pools. Nous avons atterri à Lusaka qui était le point de départ et le point d'arrivée de notre voyage de 3 semaines.
Je peux te confirmer que le trajet en voiture de Lusaka à Kariba est relativement rapide (dans les 3h30, les routes sont plutôt bonnes). Mais je crois qu'il est préférable de passer la première nuit à Lusaka. Nous avons dû essuyer un mouvement social surprise chez Air France (y a pas qu'en Afrique où il faut prendre en compte les impondérables 😉 ) qui a suffit à nous faire rater la correspondance pour Lusaka, où nous sommes arrivée avec 8h de retard ! Bref, ça pourrait être plus confortable de prendre la route le lendemain.
Pour le trajet, les taxis zambiens sont effectivement très chers. Je ne sais pas ce qu'il en est des bus mais nous en avons croisés pas mal sur la route. Par contre, ce que je me demande, c'est comment passer la frontière dans ce cas là. As-tu trouvé des moyens de transport qui vont jusque Kariba Ville et qui ne vous laisseront pas à la frontière zambienne ?
Kariba est un tout petit poste frontière. La sortie de Zambie s'effectue d'un côté du barrage et l'entrée au Zimbabwe de l'autre côté (à quelques kilomètres donc). Passer des véhicules est relativement difficile et compliqué. On peut en témoigner puisque nous sommes restés bloqués 2 bonnes heures à l'entrée du Zimbabwe pour un soit-disant faux papier lié au véhicule (l'histoire s'est très bien terminée au bout du compte mais on est pas à l'abri d'un policier corrompu !).
Je me demande si ce n'est pas finalement plus facile de passer à Chirundu (gros poste frontière qui nous a pris que 30 mn dans l'autre sens).
Un autre exemple témoigne également de ces difficultés : du Botswana, les excursions vers Victoria Falls sont organisées en effectuant la route avec un véhicule botswanais jusqu'à la sortie du pays, un passage de frontière à pied et la récupération d'un véhicule zimbabwéen de l'autre côté. Même les professionnels du tourisme semblent avoir renoncés ..
Il n'y a pas de taxis et très peu de véhicules à l'entrée au Zimbabwe à Kariba. La ville est à quelques kilomètres du poste (par contre, y a des zèbres parfois 😉). Elle se compose de 3 "villages" suffisamment éloignés les un des autres pour nécessiter une voiture. Par contre, il est largement possible d'organiser une journée là bas avec l'aide de ton hôtel ou de ta guesthouse si tu n'as pas de voitures perso. On dit que les tours en bateau sur le lac sont très chouettes (mais on a pas testé).
Concernant les logements, nous avions choisi le Warthog Bush Camp, esprit un peu routard, qui propose 3 petits chalets de 2 personnes à 30$ la nuit ou des places de campings pour 5$ par personne par nuit (avec sanitaires "conforts"). On a bien aimé l'endroit. Le propriétaire est un homme adorable et le lieu peut réserver quelques surprises !
Concernant le trip en canoë, nous avons choisi natureways et nous avons été ravis ! La prestation est vraiment d'excellente qualité. Les guides sont géniaux. Seul bémol, c'est pas si facile que ça 😉 On avait à peu près tout imaginé sauf de ramer à contre-vent :) Sinon, c'est simplement magique.
Voilà ce qu'on peut apporter de notre expérience !
Ah oui, dernière chose : c'est dommage de ne pas traverser le Zimbabwe, c'est un pays extraordinaire, de toute beauté et avec des habitants d'une gentillesse et d'une chaleur incroyable (excepté notre policier de Kariba 😉 ). C'est notre 3e passage là bas et sans doute le coin d'Afrique que nous préférons (excepté cette fois sa situation politique mais le Zimbabwe, ce n'est pas que Mugabe, bien heureusement !).
Bonjour Sitaelle!
Quel chance d'avoir des nouvelles aussi fraîches et détaillées, merci tout plein!
On va tout de même tenter de passer la frontière le jour de notre arrivée (l'avion atterrit normalement à midi)
En cas d'imprévu, ben... on improvisera.
Après avoir demandé plein de devis de taxi partout, on va sans doute passer par Richbel qui est le seul à proposer des tarifs raisonnables.
Je pense en effet que le taxi aura des difficultés à franchir la frontière, c'est pour cette raison qu'on prévoit de dormir au Kushinga Lodge qui est vraiment tout près de la frontière (moins de 2 km mais j'ai l'impression que ça grimpe : on ira donc à pied tout simplement)
J'avais aussi repéré le Whartog Bush Camp mais il est vraiment plus éloigné.
Aviez-vous réservé pour Whartog? Versé un accompte? Je préférerais éviter compte tenu des aléas zimbawesques et des frais bancaires!
Tu penses si j'ai bien compris qu'il ne faut pas trop compter trouver une voiture ou un bus en arrivant à la frontière du Zim à Kariba : vraiment peu de véhicules?
" Tu penses si j'ai bien compris qu'il ne faut pas trop compter trouver une voiture ou un bus en arrivant à la frontière du Zim à Kariba : vraiment peu de véhicules? "
Bonjour,
Même si je n'ai pas traversé la frontière, j'ai circulé sur une partie de cet axe.
Il y a des transports mais pas nécessairement au rythme où vous l'espérez.
A défaut d'un (transport) collectif, vous pouvez tjrs envisager du stop (qui a de fortes chances d'être payant mais au prix d'un lift en bus ou Hiace) en évitant au maximum les camions.
Par sécurité, n'empruntez pas de camions avant la frontière (c.à.d. en Zambie) et s'il n'y a pas de continuité une fois au Zimbabwe, le stop mais de préférence avec des véhicules léger (ou pourquoi pas un taxi à négocier qui va (forcément) vous revenir moins cher une fois passé la frontière!).
A titre personnel, je n'affrète pas de taxi depuis Lusaka. Même par "sauts de puce successifs", il y a moyen de se déplacer et quitter la capitale.
Bonjour,
Comme nous serons 4, un taxi à prix raisonnable me parait la solution la plus pratique.
Au pire s'il n'est pas au RDV nous prendrons le bus.
On verra...
A+
Marie
Non, pas de passage (ou très peu) et pas de taxis immédiatement après le poste frontière zimbabwéen de Kariba. A vrai dire, on a pas vu de bus non plus. Je pense que vous pouvez organiser le transfert vers le lodge avec le lodge lui-même. Si je comprend bien, il est côté Zimbabwe. Si vous passez la frontière à pied (attention quand même, comme je l'ai dit, il y a déjà une petite trotte à faire entre le poste zambien et le poste zimbabwéen), le lodge peut sans doute venir vous chercher à l'entrée du pays à une heure que vous aurez convenue ensemble (si pas de voiture à transférer, je pense qu'une petite heure suffit à passer la frontière de bout en bout). C'est quelque chose qui se fait plutôt bien, n'hésitez pas à demander !
Nous n'avions pas réservé au Warthog. Mais nous l'avons souvent fait là bas pour d'autres occasions/endroits. Les transactions vers le zimbabwe sont fiables (un peu plus lentes peut être) et les zimbabwéens d'une grande honnêté. Nous n'avons jamais rencontré de problèmes de ce côté là. Après, effectivement, il y a les frais bancaires pour des sommes trop petites ... Mais il reste bien sur possible de réserver sans verser d'accompte, nous l'avons également fait à plusieurs reprises. Pour des questions évidentes de logistique, il est parfois préférable d'annoncer sa venue (si tu souhaites diner par exemple !). Mais c'est sans doute plus valable quand on va dans des coins moins touristiques (Kariba est très touristique ... Même un peu trop pour nous à vrai dire 😉).
Je me mets au travail dès que possible sur le carnet. Merci à tous pour vos encouragements !
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Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards