Vous m' avez été d' un grand secours pour établir mon itinéraire estival ...
Celui-ci établi, j' ai un peu laissé tomber, me disant que j' avais du temps ...
Parce que vous me semblez passionnés et heureux de renseigner le voyageur débutant, à J - 10, je reprends contact .
Mon itinéraire a été établi en fonction des nuitées, mais entre celles-ci, subsistent des inconnues sur les routes à emprunter, sur les endroits à ne pas louper ...
Je ne livrerai pas l' ensemble de mon itinéraire dans ce premier message , mais vous en propose les premiers jours, et une progression au fur et à mesure que se rapproche la date de mon départ .J-0 : celle du départ . Pas de question particulière ... Je m' inquiète un peu car nous n' avons jamais voyagé avec escale(s), mais je me renseignerai au départ !J-1 : Windhoek . Pas de question particulière non plus ... Possession du véhicule, courses, nuit à Arrebush Restcamp (ou autre, pas de résa) .J-2 : il me faut rallier Gecko Camp (réservé) . Un itinéraire particulier à me recommander ? Durée à envisager pour ce trajet ?J-3 : nous envisageons l' Olive Trail puis rejoindre l' Océan Campsite (réservé) aux portes de Sesriem ... Des suggestions ? Le fameux gâteau, c' est bien à Solitaire ?
J-4 : Sossusleï, Dead Vlei, Canyon Sesriem, camping de Sesriem, dune Denim . Je me pose encore la question des 4 derniers km de Sossusleï : je l' tente ou pas ? Çà, j' crois qu' verrai sur place !
J-5 : il semble qu' il n' y ait qu' une seule route pour rejoindre Walvis Bay . Étant au camping de Sesriem, et bénéficiant du privilège d' un accès plus matinal encore, est-il raisonnable d' envisager se rendre à nouveau à Sossusleï (la route me semble longue !) . Nuit Kleines Nest réservée .Bon voilà pour cette première étape ... Une image pour visualiser !
C'est gentil de nous re-donner l'occasion de martyriser le clavier !
J-1 : Windhoek . Pas de question particulière non plus ... Possession du véhicule, courses, nuit à Arrebush Restcamp (ou autre, pas de résa).
Juste un conseil : prends vraiment le temps de tout regarder en détail lors de la prise du véhicule et refuse fermement du matériel de camping ou des pneus en mauvais état.
J-2 : il me faut rallier Gecko Camp (réservé) . Un itinéraire particulier à me recommander ? Durée à envisager pour ce trajet ?
C26/D1265/D1261/D1275, environ 3h. Il paraît que la Spreetshoogte pass a été pas mal endommagée par les pluies mais elle est donnée "OK en 4x4".
J-3 : nous envisageons l' Olive Trail puis rejoindre l' Océan Campsite (réservé) aux portes de Sesriem ... Des suggestions ? Le fameux gâteau, c' est bien à Solitaire ?
Je ne connais pas le trail. Oui le gâteau c'est à Solitaire. Il n'y a pas de quoi se taper le c** par terre non plus.
J-4 : Sossusleï, Dead Vlei, Canyon Sesriem, camping de Sesriem, dune Denim . Je me pose encore la question des 4 derniers km de Sossusleï : je l' tente ou pas ? Çà, j' crois qu' verrai sur place !
Sinon, pourquoi avoir loué un 4x4 ? Au pire, si tu t'ensables, il y aura du monde pour t'aider et ça vous fera un souvenir… 😄
J-5 : il semble qu' il n' y ait qu' une seule route pour rejoindre Walvis Bay . Étant au camping de Sesriem, et bénéficiant du privilège d' un accès plus matinal encore, est-il raisonnable d' envisager se rendre à nouveau à Sossusleï (la route me semble longue !) . Nuit Kleines Nest réservée .
Je ne vois pas trop l'intérêt d'y revenir un 2ème jour…
-4 : Sossusleï, Dead Vlei, Canyon Sesriem, camping de Sesriem, dune Denim . Je me pose encore la question des 4 derniers km de Sossusleï : je l' tente ou pas ? Çà, j' crois qu' verrai sur place !
Sinon, pourquoi avoir loué un 4x4 ? Au pire, si tu t'ensables, il y aura du monde pour t'aider et ça vous fera un souvenir… 😄
Exact pour le souvenir , moins sûr pour "du monde pour t'aider" , surtout si tu t' ensables au retour à l' heure où les touristes se font + rares .
Un dimanche après-midi , dans la douce chaleur locale , nos sauveurs ont été un couple (très sympa) d' Autrichiens . Il n' y avait vraiment plus personne d' autre à proximité !
Et pas de réseau localement avec un simple portable ... 😕
J-5 : il semble qu' il n' y ait qu' une seule route pour rejoindre Walvis Bay . Étant au camping de Sesriem, et bénéficiant du privilège d' un accès plus matinal encore, est-il raisonnable d' envisager se rendre à nouveau à Sossusleï (la route me semble longue !) . Nuit Kleines Nest réservée .
Je ne vois pas trop l'intérêt d'y revenir un 2ème jour…
les photos Pierre, les photos... faire les photos que tu n'as pas pu faire la veille. 😉
et le lever du soleil sur la dune 45 par exemple que tu n'auras pas pu faire la veille non plus
moi j'y retournerai... 65 bornes c'est pas si long
Le conseil pour l'Olive Trail c'est de le faire de bonne heure, à la fraîche. Donc partir très tôt de camp Gecko (1h30 de route)
ensuite ça prend 4 à 5 heures de marche. prévoir de l'eau en quantité suffisante et une bonne protection solaire ( chapeau)
les photos Pierre, les photos... faire les photos que tu n'as pas pu faire la veille. 😉
et le lever du soleil sur la dune 45 par exemple que tu n'auras pas pu faire la veille non plus
moi j'y retournerai... 65 bornes c'est pas si long
Pourquoi ils n'auraient pas pu faire la Dune 45 la veille ?
65 + 65 = 130 km + la route jusqu'à Walvis, ça fait quand même une tirée… Mais pourquoi pas revenir, oui… (si chutes de neiges trop importantes la veille par exemple. 😏😏😏)
Cela semble si facile de préparer ainsi son voyage en votre compagnie ... Merci !
Je consigne chacune de vos réponses dans l' ébauche de mon circuit, et çà prend forme .
- Itinéraire via la Spreetshoogte pass repéré et privilégié .
- Le sable à Sossusleï, je pense le tenter ... De tels souvenirs (tels ceux de JM54) j' en engrange déjà des tas avec mon fourgon ! Des bons souvenirs il est vrai, que l' on a maintenant plaisir à évoquer, même si certains de ceux-ci ont été assez effrayants à vivre au moment présent !
- Sossusleï le deuxième jour, c' est au cas où ?! C' est pour y être plus tôt encore (la première nuit, je ne la passe pas au camping de Sesriem, mais en périphérie immédiate), et effectivement pour les photos ! Mais je ne sais pas si c' est envisageable. Auriez-vous une estimation du temps de parcours pour rejoindre Walvis Bay ?!
Pierre, je postais ce message en même temps que ta réponse faite à Vincent !
Zou ...
Jp .
Pourquoi ils n'auraient pas pu faire la Dune 45 la veille ?
je n'ai pas dit qu'ils ne pouvaient pas faire la dune 45 la veille, j'ai dit qu'ils ne pourraient pas faire le lever du soleil sur la dune 45. Nuance.
Comme ils dorment en extérieur ils ne peuvent être en même temps à l'entrée du parc au moment où le soleil se lève et sur la dune 😉
la 2eme nuit est au camping de Sesriem cette fois. D'ailleurs le seul avantage que de dormir au camping de Sesriem c'est de partir plus tôt. je trouve ça con de ne pas en profiter
Maintenant je te rejoins que ça fait faire des kilomètres sur la journée mais bon les réservations sont faites... fallait y penser avant 😛
De Sesriem il faut un bon 4h00 voire 5h00 pour rejoindre Walvis bay
Donc tu es tranquille dans les dunes jusqu'à 10/11h00 si tu veux 😉
Entre Sesriem et Walvis pas vraiment de quoi flâner à part les arrêts à Solitaire et aux pass de Kuiseb et Gaub
Maintenant je te rejoins que ça fait faire des kilomètres sur la journée mais bon les réservations sont faites... fallait y penser avant 😛
Tout à fait d' accord Vincent ... Mais il a fallu faire avec ! Je n' ai pu obtenir qu' une seule date à Sesriem, en m' y prenant dès début Janvier ! J' ai du adapter !
Il semble assez difficile de trouver le départ de l' Olive Trail ... As-tu un "truc" susceptible de me faciliter cette recherche ?!
Non ... Pas de GPS ! C' est grave ???
Pourrais-je faire sans, afin de localiser assez facilement une arrivée vers les campings réservés ???
J' ai localisé ta position sur Google Maps et déplacé mon repère correspondant à l' Olive Trail sur celle-ci .
Pour la route J-3 (Camp Gecko - Sesriem via Olive Trail), l' itinéraire logique semble D 1275, C 14, D 854, D 945 et C 27 ... Correct ?
Plus sérieusement, non, ce n'est pas difficile de trouver les campings, tout est bien balisé.
OK pour l'itinéraire. Arrivé à la C19, tu passes où tu veux. Si tu prends la 945 et que tu y trouves mes 2 gars en panne d'il y a 3 ans, tu leur passe le bonjour. Mais j'ai peur qu'ils soient bien secs… 🏴☠️
J' ai effectivement suivi cet autre Post ... Pour tout dire, depuis le mois de décembre, je suis tous les messages évoquant la Namibie et/ou le Botswana !
Concernant le nom de la dune, je veux parler de celle accessible à pied depuis le camping ! Denim, Elim ??? Ou toute autre chose, je me plante peut-être totalement, peut-être n' existe elle même pas ?! Je crois l' avoir lu quelque part, mais ???
Ah ! Tant qu' on est dans l' coin, vous me confirmer : manger au Sossluveï lodge est un incontournable ?!
manger au Sossluveï lodge est un incontournable ?!
Je ne sais pas si c'est incontournable, mais comme ce lodge jouxte le campsite de Sesriem, si tu te tires un grosse flemme le soir pour faire la popote, il n'y a pas mieux !
accessible à pied depuis le camping ! Denim, Elim ???
Il y a quand même 4 km à vol d'oiseau, avant d'attaquer la grimpette.
Alors, prêts à m' épauler dans les étapes suivantes ?J 6 : nous restons sur Walvis Bay, nous y effectuons le combiné safari en mer et excursion 4X4 à Sandwich Harbour (prestation réservée) . Le soir nous regagnons Swakopmund (Rapmund hôtel, réservé) .J 7 ... Cape Cross est envisagé . Je connais votre sentiment à ce sujet, peut être zapperons-nous cet imposant détour pour rejoindre ensuite Spitzkoppe . Itinéraire direct : B2, D1918, D3716 ; Via Cape Cross : C 34 (retour), D1918, D 19 25 ? Si on a du temps, intérêt du "Paradis du Busman" (à envisager éventuellement J 8) ? Nuit au camp (sans résa !) .
J 8 : visite White Lady : D 1930, C 35 et D 2359 ? Nuit au White lady lodge (réservé) .J 9 : direction Aba-Huab Campsite (sans résa !) : D 2359, C 35, D 2612 ? Intérêt des visites des sites "Forêt pétrifiée", "Montagne brûlée", "Tuyeaux d' Orgue", "Twyfelfontein ?J' arrête là ... Je pars au boulot (je parviens parfois à me connecter sur un "hotspot", mais pas toujours) !
Tous les avis concernant ces 4 jours m' intéressent .
J' ai placé chacun des itinéraires "route" sur ma carte (celle-ci se décline désormais sur 2 pages ?!) . Les temps alloués à ces différents parcours vous semblent-ils corrects ?!
J6 No comment. Tt le monde dit du bien du combiné.
J7 faire un détour à Cape Cross sur le chemin du Sptizkoppe ça me semble une bonne option : si la météo n'est pas bonne (brouillard matinal qui est fréquent sur la côte), tu pourra bifurquer directement à Hentisbay et profiter du Spitzkoppe plus longuement.
J8 et J9 : rien à dire, je n'ai pas trop potassé la question.
Pas grand chose à dire… Du classique !
Les sites autour de Twyfelfontein : tu te feras ton avis par toi-même.
Le mien : Tuyaux d'orgues, petite balade sympa - Burnt Mountain, bof - Petrified Forest, pas vue.
salut J2P
Attention à Hobatere Lodge, j'ai vu sur ta carte que tu avais prévu y coucher, c'est fermé. Reagarde sue "la grande Gougoule" tu tapes "hobatere lodge" et tu verras it's indefinitely closed
jean michel
Hé ... hé !!! Effectivement cette info m' avait été transmise .
Aujourd' hui même, j' ai posé la question sur son ouverture, voilà ce qui m' a été répondu :
Hobatere a été repris par la communauté locale, donc le camping est ouvert, vous devez vous y présenter directement.
Au cas où celui-ci soit cependant fermé, j' ai prévu d' autre hébergements "camping" aux alentours de Kamanjab : Alpec bush camp, Rustig toko, duncan, Kamanjab Rest Camp . Auriez-vous des avis sur l' un ou l' autre de ceux-ci ? Ou bien d' autres encore à proposer ?
D' autres incertitudes encore sur d' autres campings ...Aux alentours de Rundu : N' Kazi lodge, Sarasungu River lodge, Kaisosi river lodge ? Autres ?
Aux alentours de Kongola : Bumhill Camp, Namushasha Country Lodge, Kwando Camp ? Autres ? Alternative un peu plus éloignée : Salambala campsite ?Kasane (Botswana) : Chobe Safari Lodge, Thebe River ? Senyati Safari Camp ? Autres ? Ghanzi (Botswana) : Thagadu Rest Camp, Gantsi Trail Blazers ? Autres ? Pierre, dans ton récit, j' ai cru lire qu' une arrivée vers 16h était compatible avec la "Bushmen Expérience" ... Tu confirmes ?Voilà pour ma salve de questions du jour . La construction de mon circuit tient désormais compte des km et des temps de parcours entre deux étapes ... Vous semblent-ils corrects ? Merci .
Aux alentours de Rundu : N' Kazi lodge, Sarasungu River lodge, Kaisosi river lodge ? Autres ?
Je connais N'Kwazi, bien situé au bord du fleuve. Connais pas les autres
Kasane (Botswana) : Chobe Safari Lodge, Thebe River ? Senyati Safari Camp ? Autres ?
Je connais CSL, mieux que ce qu'on lit souvent. Connais pas les autres
Ghanzi (Botswana) : Thagadu Rest Camp, Gantsi Trail Blazers ? Autres ? Pierre, dans ton récit, j' ai cru lire qu' une arrivée vers 16h était compatible avec la "Bushmen Expérience" ... Tu confirmes ?
Je connais Thakadu, plutôt sympa, pas les autres. Pour la balade avec les Bushmen, c'est possible à 16 h mais ils faut les prévenir avant ! On est arrivé avant déjeuner et on a réservé la balade pour 16h dès le matin. Au dernier moment, je n'ai pas eu l'impression que ça aurait été possible…
Alors, prêts à m' épauler dans les étapes suivantes ?J 6 : nous restons sur Walvis Bay, nous y effectuons le combiné safari en mer et excursion 4X4 à Sandwich Harbour (prestation réservée) . Le soir nous regagnons Swakopmund (Rapmund hôtel, réservé) .
J' ai placé chacun des itinéraires "route" sur ma carte (celle-ci se décline désormais sur 2 pages ?!) . Les temps alloués à ces différents parcours vous semblent-ils corrects ?!
Merci !
Jp .
je suis tj étonné de ne voir personne se poser au Municipal camp site de Swakop - camp site ou bungalow - accès direct à la laverie, boite de nuit, jeux videos boutique etc ....
Un VRAI moment de partage avec les locaux...
en 4 passages et 4 arrêts tj heureux d'y faire une halte et des rencontres..😉
je suis tj étonné de ne voir personne se poser au Municipal camp site de Swakop
Je l' avais effectivement envisagé ... Ce sera désormais pour le prochain voyage J - 3 😉
Je pense être à peu près à jour dans mon circuit (toujours preneur des infos, des conseils de dernière minutes !).
J' ai lu : Le rand sud africain a cours en Namibie au même titre que le dollar namibien . Si vous avez le temps, nous vous conseillons de changer en rands sud-africains à l’aéroport de Johannesburg .Pour le passage au Botswana, prévoir des dollars américains pour les taxes aux passages de frontières : taxes sur le véhicule, assurance complémentaire obligatoire à prendre à la douane ...Vous confirmez ???
Merci !
Jean-Fi .
Le rand sud africain a cours en Namibie au même titre que le dollar namibien . Si vous avez le temps, nous vous conseillons de changer en rands sud-africains à l’aéroport de Johannesburg .
Vrai, mais je ne conseille pas le change, ni à JoBurg ni à Windhoek. Il vaut mieux retirer un un distributeur avec une carte de crédit, ça revient bien moins cher !
Pour le passage au Botswana, prévoir des dollars américains pour les taxes aux passages de frontières : taxes sur le véhicule, assurance complémentaire obligatoire à prendre à la douane ...
Faux. Le dollar US n'a pas cours au Botswana et ils acceptent aux frontières les Rands sud-africains (que tu auras retirés au DAB à JoBurg). Ils prennent les USD et les euros à un cours catastrophique.
ATTENTION 1 : au Botswana, si tu changes de l'argent liquide dans une banque ou un bureau de change, le taux est absolument CATASTROPHIQUE, 30 à 40 % du taux officiel interbancaire !!! C'est un pays où il faut ABSOLUMENT faire ses retraits aux distributeurs par CB. Jamais vu ça à ce point là ailleurs.
ATTENTION 2 : préviens ta banque que tu pars dans ces pays "bizarres". L'an dernier, au premier retrait, la banque de nos amis a bloqué toutes leurs cartes. L'employé n'avait jamais entendu parler de ces pays là et devait penser sans doute que c'était un repaire de mafieux chinois. Ça avait généré 48 h de galère pendus au téléphone et d'emprunt aux copains (nous !).
Super ... Merci Pierre pour ta réponse !
Je procède toujours par retraits aux DAB lorsque je suis à l' étranger ... Je ne changerai donc pas mes habitudes pour ce voyage un peu particulier pour moi ... Je prévoirai donc le retrait de monnaie Sudaf sachant qu' elle a cours en Namibie et Botswana . Pas de dollars US, c' est super : une de moins (euros, rands sudaf, dollar namibien et pula suffiront bien !) .
Non pas tout à fait. Les rands sudafs ne servent qu'au passage de la frontière au Botswana. Ils n'ont pas cours dans le pays (ou à un très mauvais taux). La monnaie locale, c'est le Pula (pluie en setswana), à retirer aux DABs aussi !
Un dernier truc… Le dollar US est la monnaie officielle du Zimbabwe (si vous faites un saut à Vic Falls). Possible de retirer aux DAB sur place éventuellement aussi…
S' il y a bien une chose dont je suis désormais persuadé : c' est que nous n' irons pas aux VF !!!
Il a fallu opérer des choix, et dès le départ, ces dernières ne nous ont instinctivement pas plus emballés que çà .
Tout comme le Municipal camp site de Swakop, elles feront peut-être partie du deuxième voyage 😉
Très instructif ce post. Je n'avais pas pensé à toutes ces manipulations financières. Juste un détail à la frontière au Botswana on peut aussi payer en dollar Namibien ?
Après une fois dans le pays, ça sera peut-être dur de trouver un DAB dans le parc de Chobe 😉
a+
Max
PS: au fait tu es prêt pour l'Ouest?, je crois que c'est pour bientôt
Bonne vacances américaines Pierre ... Je ne tarderai pas à t' emboîter le pas (J - 3) !
Merci encore pour toutes ces infos mises à disposition et qui ont grandement contribué à l' élaboration de mon voyage .
PS: concernant la Namibie; je viens de lire un post (relativement ancien) où les intervenants se plaignaient que les parcs Botswanien (principalement Chobe) deviennent un peu un usine à touristes. Ils citaient un pauvre groupe d'éléphants observés par un dizaine de bateaux côté eau et une trentaine de 4x4 côté terre. Qu'en dis-tu ?
Du coup je me demande si la version expédition dans le Kaokoland et le nord Damaraland ne serait pas mieux,
certes on y verra moins d'animaux, mais au moins nous serons seuls et on aura plus de "mérite" d'arrivé à en voir un.
Je ne peux comparer dans le temps puisque je n'y suis allé qu'une fois… Mais mon avis sur Chobe River Front, je pense que tu le connais.On y a passé une demi-journée en voiture, on a dû y croiser 3 ou 4 autres véhicules et une après-midi sur un (petit) bateau. Bien sûr il y en avait quelques autres sur le fleuve, mais face aux éléphants, nous étions seuls !
Usine à touriste, c'est un bien grand mot ! Sommes nous autre chose que des touristes de toute façon ?
Les camps restent ultra-sauvages et non clos, même si les "ablution blocks" ont été rénovés ce qui n'était pas du luxe.
D'ailleurs je crois que ce fil est unique en son genre sur VF…
Merci pour vos souhaits ! Bon voyage à tout le monde !
Pour me rendre de Purros à Opuwo, quelle route et/ou piste dois-je emprunter : D 3707, D 3706, D 3704 ; ou D 3707, D 3705 et D3704 ; ou bien encore D 3707 par le Nord .
Sur mon parcours, où se situent les barrages vétérinaires (les points où il faut se débarrasser de sa nourriture) ?
Bande de Caprivi, de Kongola à Kasane ... Que me conseilleriez-vous ?
La route directe (B8) ou bien la D 3511 (et éventuellement les D3514 et D 3507) .
Je devrais dormir vers Kongola et souhaite rejoindre Kasane pas trop tard de manière à y effectuer le boat cruise ?!
Pour me rendre de Purros à Opuwo, quelle route et/ou piste dois-je emprunter : D 3707, D 3706, D 3704 ; ou D 3707, D 3705 et D3704 ; ou bien encore D 3707 par le Nord.
Option 1 en repassant par Seisfontein.
Les autres options sont faisables mais beaucoup plus longues (en temps) et ne présentent pas beaucoup d'intérêt si te ne vas pas plus au Nord (Hartmann, Marienfluss).
Sur mon parcours, où se situent les barrages vétérinaires (les points où il faut se débarrasser de sa nourriture) ?
Tu verras la première juste avant Palmwag, mais comme tu montes vers le Nord pas de contrôle. Si des gars t'arrêtent, c'est pour te vendre des noix de Makalani sculptées.
Je ne pense pas qu'il y en ait à l'entrée au Botswana depuis le Caprivi, mais ça serait à vérifier.
Ensuite, à Nata.
Une autre quand tu redescendra de Kaziikini, juste un peu au Sud sur la route de Maun. Là encore, pas de contrôle en montant.
Une dernière avant Ganzhi.
Je n'ai pas parcouru le Caprivi, mais pour être à temps pour le boat cruise, je prendrais la route directe, B8. Plus tôt posés à Kasane, mieux ça vaudra !
Les autres mènent vers les parcs de Mudumu et Mamili où j'aimerais bien jeter un œil un jour fois si le niveau d'eau baisse, mais il y faut quelques jours…
Un dernier conseil sur mon itinéraire ???
Oui, un tout tout dernier ...😉
Bande de Caprivi, de Kongola à Kasane ... Que me conseilleriez-vous ?
La r oute directe (B8) ou bien la D 3511 (et éventuellement les D3514 et D 3507) .
La B8 : ça roule bien mais faire attention aux piétons, écoliers, vélos et...animaux.
Je devrais dormir vers Kongola et souhaite rejoindre Kasane pas trop tard de manière à y effectuer le boat cruise ?!
Il faut env. 3h dont env. 45minutes depuis la frontière de Ngoma jusque Kasane.
Te tracasse pas tu seras bien à temps pour la croisière !
Tu l'as réservée ? Je ne me souviens plus !
A Kongola à l'embranchement vers la C49 (photo 1) et divers lodges et camps (station essence) se trouve un petit craft center (photo 2): tout ce qu'on y vend est bcp plus cher qu'ailleurs.
Par contre- si tu as un peu de temps ?!? à Katima mulilo il ya un grand craft center (photo 3) fort bien achalandé, à prix fixes et corrects.
Je te mets une photo (n°4) de la frontière (par prudence j'avais demandé si c'était permis !) à Ngoma bridge côté Botsw. : c'est la 1ère vision du Chobe !
Je vous souhaite à tous quatre un excellent voyage, des souvenirs inoubliables !
@ bientôt ! 😉
Et bah trop tard Michelle pour ta réponse !!! Merci cependant !
Je suis rentré il y a quelques heures à peine de ce fabuleux voyage ...
Laissez moi un peu de temps pour atterrir ... Je ne manquerai pas d' évoquer l' aventure sur le Forum : vous avez grandement contribué à sa totale réussite !
Pour les connaisseurs, je vous propose de partager un peu de cet Apfel Strudel ... Vous en connaissez l' origine !
J' y serais bien resté un peu plus encore ... Çà a été vraiment prodigieux !
Patience ... je ne manquerai pas d' évoquer plus longuement cette fabuleuse aventure : un circuit de 6 847 km sans aucune ombre au tableau, pas un ensablement, pas une crevaison ...
Il est vrai que l' épisode "Purros", et la charge de cet éléphant sur notre emplacement de camping restera un moment fort du voyage !
Je n' ai pas manqué de lire votre propre récit ici sur le Forum ... C' est super !
PS: concernant la Namibie; je viens de lire un post (relativement ancien) où les intervenants se plaignaient que les parcs Botswanien (principalement Chobe) deviennent un peu un usine à touristes. Ils citaient un pauvre groupe d'éléphants observés par un dizaine de bateaux côté eau et une trentaine de 4x4 côté terre. Qu'en dis-tu ?
Je retombe là-dessus par hasard après être rentré des Etats-Unis et je me gondole tout seul devant l'ordi… 😏😏😏😏
Je pense que tu comprendras ce que j'ai en tête, Jean-François…
La notion d'usine à touriste est décidément très variable selon le coin du monde…
Et… raconte, c'est quoi cette charge d'éléphants à Purros ?
Il s' agit de la charge d' un seul éléphant Pierre !!!
Pour résumer, c' est la fin d' après-midi ... Notre guide nous ayant accompagné à la recherche des éléphants du désert nous dépose à notre emplacement camping et s' éloigne . Un peu plus tard, nos sens sont mis en éveil : nous percevons un barrissement caractéristique . Rapidement nous distinguons très distinctement la silhouette du pachyderme se dirigeant droit sur notre campement ... droit sur nous ! Nous l' observons, nous dirigeant délicatement et par mesure de précaution vers notre véhicule . Alerté par le bruit, notre guide nous a rejoint ... Nous sommes comme scotchés sur place : l' animal n' est plus qu' à quelques mètres !
Percevant je ne sais quel indice dans le comportement du mastodonte, le guide nous précipite dans l' habitacle de notre propre véhicule et prenant la place du chauffeur, démarre en trombe : l' animal s' est mis a chargé, émettant un son vraiment effrayant ... Çà peut se déplacer vraiment vite un éléphant, cela ne s' est joué à pas grand chose pour qu' il ne percute le 4X4 !!!
El Lobo était présent ce jour là à Purros ... Il n' a loupé la scène d' un quart d' heure à peine !
Une expérience un peu traumatisante : nous n' en menions pas large la nuit venue, vulnérables dans nos tentes de toit !!!
Voilà pour la première de nos petites histoires ...
Voilà pour la première de nos petites histoires ...
Une sacrée histoire ! Quelle aventure ! J'en frissonne à te lire…
On a eu des éléphants dans notre camp au Botswana mais ils n'avaient jamais été agressifs… Il semble bien que les éléphants du désert soient bien plus nerveux. L'an dernier, ils n'ont pas laissé passer nos amis dans le canyon au Sud de Purros. Des qu'ils avançaient, ils faisaient mine de charger, mais jamais au point de votre copain.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 64 replies
Je voudrais vous soumettre mon itinéraire pour avoir votre avis. J1 arrivée Windoeck (nuit) J2 Sossusvlei J3 Sossusvlei J4 Luderitz J5 Luderitz Pour ces 2…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 13 replies
Je part cet été en Namibie avec ma famille (deux adultes, trois enfants). On est en ce moment, nous sommes en train de planifier notre itinéraire. J'aimreais…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 12 replies
En septembre, nous aurons l'occasion de faire un voyage de 9 jours en Namibie (avant de partir vers l'Okavango) avec un 4x4 équipé pour le camping. Je vous…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 14 replies
Après avoir passé des heures et des heures sur le forum, avoir dévoré vos carnets de voyages passionnants, été éblouie par vos photos...je suis toute à fait…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 15 replies
NAMIBIE 2017 Nous étions restés sur notre faim lors de notre premier voyage en 2001 avec un TO qui certes est très bien sur d'autres destinations mais qui…
Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards