I'm about to leave for Tulum, and unlike many who worry about which amusement park they can visit, I'm doing in-depth research on the place I'm going to. And this time, the more I look, the scarier it gets. Numerous articles, mostly in English (with a few rare ones in French like this one: https://parismatch.be/actualites/environnement/114152/la-pollution-la-face-cachee-de-tulum), show that Tulum, behind the postcard image, is an extremely polluted area because it developed very quickly without putting in place the infrastructure to handle human waste.
Two key points:
- 80% of the hotels, which are multiplying in Tulum, dump their wastewater directly into nature (the sea and the ground)! We know that Tulum's subsoil is like Swiss cheese, with water circulating in an interconnected way. Fecal pollution is everywhere, as is chemical pollution from everyday products. You're swimming in sewage in the sea and in the cenotes, which are all interconnected. The water in your shower is polluted with fecal matter. The water used for cooking is too.
- Trash is dumped in the jungle 10 km from Tulum. A massive landfill there grows every day.
Greenwashing is intense there, even more so than elsewhere. And the hipsters lounge around on Instagram without a care about where their... well, you know, goes.
I contacted about ten hotels, explicitly asking which wastewater treatment plant their sewage goes to and how they recycle their waste. I got no response, except for one very arrogant one, explaining that this isn't the developed world and that waste isn't viewed the same way here. The manager, who has the look of a mobster, claimed not to know where his wastewater and waste go and advised me to look elsewhere.
I don't think I'll be giving my money to this place or risking my health just to say "I went there too."
Same observations in all countries with landscapes and cultural attractions to exploit.
Even in France, when the summer season arrives, I have to deal with the mess these dear visitors leave me—both literally and figuratively. I just roll with it and try to manage.
Hi there,
There was a recent report on a France 2 news program about this very situation in Tulum.
But beyond that, I think all of Mexico is affected by the lack of waste and wastewater treatment.
There’s a beach in Playa del Carmen where you can’t mistake the source of the smell that overwhelms the place. I think many of you know which one I’m talking about.
The problem is huge—hotels and tourism only have a very short-term view of profitability, no matter the environmental cost. Yet, many people are protesting and getting involved in ecological battles against this situation on the ground. Mexican environmentalists speak out, demonstrate, and sometimes occupy spaces, but they represent only a tiny opposition to the overwhelming power of tourism and the hotel industry. They’re not heard at all.
Those "eco-lounges" and other eco-labels that many accommodations flaunt make me smile, but in reality, few are credible. There’s so much that could be done, though.
The environmental protection market is up for grabs. But it takes serious power to make it happen, establish a presence, and implement viable, sustainable treatment solutions.
Not to mention, unfortunately, corruption as well.
Individual initiatives—like sites with off-grid electricity—are symbolic, a bit like in France when people focus on individual car pollution while ignoring everything else...
In the meantime, only use tap water on-site for showering—don’t even use it to brush your teeth.
And think about anti-amoeba meds before you leave :)
++
JP
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Same observations in all countries with landscapes and cultural attractions to exploit.
Even in France when the summer season arrives, I have to deal with the mess these dear visitors leave me—both literally and figuratively. I put up with it and try to manage.
Here, it’s way beyond that. 80% of hotels dump their wastewater directly into the ground and their garbage bags straight into the jungle. It’s crazy that people still choose to vacation there. I’ve tried everything to cancel my trip with Expedia, but nothing is refundable, and I’m disgusted.
Hi Jean-Pierre, can you tell me more about anti-amoebas?
When I see all those idiots taking photos while bathing in the cenotes, I happily leave them the spot.
Hey Lionel,
Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater :) Sorry for the pun.
Mexico is still an amazing country with stunning landscapes and activities to visit or do. I never stay in big hotels—I either stay with locals or rent a house in their neighborhood to meet these wonderful people, I promise you.
And when we travel around, I always skip those giant structures in favor of small hostels or neighborhood hotels, which I find much more authentic.
My advice would be to get out of that hotel you can’t cancel as much as possible.
Anti-amoeba meds (antiamibias) are tablets to take after returning to France.
1 or 2 pills, depending on the brand, taken in a single dose. But you *must* wait until you’re back in France and no longer exposed to Mexican water.
That said, this isn’t just for Mexico—it applies anywhere in the world where water might be contaminated.
As you rightly pointed out, the water is polluted, and microorganisms can thrive and spread.
During my first trip in February 2016, a Mexican friend there advised me to use them, especially after I told him I’d drunk a big glass of tap water first thing in the morning—just a metropolitan habit—while looking out the window at the view. Totally involuntary and unconscious.
Since then, I take them after every trip, after buying them at a local supermarket (yes, you can buy a lot of meds in supermarkets there, kind of like in the US).
They cost between 90 and 160 pesos, if I remember correctly.
So far, no issues. Maybe thanks to the anti-amoeba meds, or maybe I just haven’t been exposed. But I doubt the second option.
Hope that answers your question.
Cheers,
JP
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Unfortunately, it’s not just Tulum—it’s the same here in Brazil where I am right now.
What’s surprising is that the locals don’t seem to mind. Seeing trash everywhere—on the beach, in the water, along forest trails—well, in Brazil, it just seems to be part of the scenery. You only have to look at the boats to see how many people toss everything overboard.
Unlike your experience in Brazil, which I haven’t had, Mexico struck us as very clean, with residents who respect the infrastructure and use it properly.
Let’s revisit this when you’re back from your trip to see if we’re idealizing things or if you share the same impression.
Still, try to make the most of this experience and take something positive from it.
Cheers,
Jp
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Oh, I’m bringing back some positive vibes, don’t worry. And unfortunately, I’m not idealizing anything. I’ve been in the Manaus region since November, and the reality is pretty grim. I don’t know how it is in the rest of Brazil, but I’m not holding my breath.
When I see all those idiots taking photos bathing in the cenotes, I happily leave them the spot.
They go to Tulum and the Riviera Maya because... everyone goes there without worrying about anything other than the white sand (sic...) and the crystal-clear sea (bis...)....
Tourism is the second-largest source of foreign income for Mexico. So it’s a real boon for the country.
There’s worse than Playa del Whatever, etc.—mainly the fact that across the country, Mexicans themselves aren’t yet aware of waste recovery, recycling.
I’ve been in a small village in Nayarit for two months, and here, it’s the tourist-residents who handle recycling.
Los Amigos de Lo de Marcos lead by example: the villagers see us doing it! No need to clean the beach—it’s always spotless.
We set up trash bins for recycling. They need to be emptied twice a week, but there’s no longer any waste in the streets.
Here, no cenotes, no ‘swimming’ with dolphins or turtles, and certainly no Disneyland....😛
And the common language for everyone is Spanish.....😎
It’s up to you, so-called tree-hugger tourists who love this country, to learn their language.**
Totally agree—I started learning Spanish in October.
Two hours of classes per week.
I can’t do more, but it’s the least I can do to respect the locals by making an effort to speak the country’s language. I plan to improve this year by staying there alone for a few weeks, immersing myself with the people. :)
I’ll leave it to you to label me as one of those "so-called tree-hugging tourists in love with the country" if you want—I’ve got my conscience on my side. 🙂 :)
Have a great day,
JP
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- 80% of the hotels, which are multiplying in Tulum, discharge their wastewater directly into nature (sea and soil)! We know that Tulum's subsoil is like Swiss cheese, with water circulating in an interconnected way. Fecal pollution is everywhere, along with chemical pollution from everyday products. You're swimming in sewage in the sea as well as in the cenotes, which are all interconnected. The water in your shower is contaminated with fecal matter. The water used for cooking is too.
- Garbage is dumped in the jungle 10 km from Tulum. A massive landfill grows there every day.
Seriously, this is horrifying—I never would’ve imagined something like this in Mexico!
Greenwashing is intense there, even more than elsewhere. And the hipsters lounge around on Instagram without a care about where their waste goes...
Who are the "bobos"?
I don’t think I’ll return to give my money there or risk my health just to say "me too, I’ve been there."
I get that you’ve been there before and it wasn’t like this, and that this is a very recent issue?
I gathered you’ve been there before and it wasn’t like this, and that the problem is very recent?
NO! It’s still better now, and it’s improving (very) slowly from year to year.
I compare it to my first trip in 1997.
We need to act on two levels: awareness and infrastructure.
It’s mostly Mexicans themselves who cause the pollution. Most tourists keep up their good habits of respecting the environment and recycling..
No! It’s still better now, and it’s improving (very) slowly year by year.
I compare it to my first trip in 1997
I still remember Playa del Carmen and other small beaches with turquoise waters that you could only reach by rough side paths perpendicular to the main Cancún–Tulum–Chetumal road. In the 80s, there were no permanent structures on these beaches (except Cancún!), just palm huts and shelters where you’d hang your hammock...
When I read what’s being said here, I can hardly believe it
What saddens me a bit about what you're saying is that it's the "resident tourist" who takes the initiative to clean up. And never the local person who lives here.
I've seen this in so many countries—it's always or almost always foreigners who raise awareness. I just can't understand why the sense of cleanliness doesn't reach the average Latino. And I'll conclude with the example of where I am at Parque Urubui in Presidente Figueiredo: despite the trash cans, people just toss everything on the ground.
your post reminds me exactly of a documentary I saw last year about the "magnificent" Maldives 🤪—polluted waters and waste burned all together on the "trash island" 🏴☠️. No sorting, no recycling, not even bothering to return empty bottles to the ship that delivers new full ones.
I don’t know Mexico, but I’ve traveled quite a bit in Latin America, and I still don’t understand how they can’t be bothered by all the mess on the ground and in nature. We should start by educating the younger generations, like we do at home by raising awareness in schools from an early age. But even if they managed to do that, it would still take a few generations to see real, concrete improvements.
It's the arrival of plastics and polystyrene that ruined everything, among other things.
In Bali it's the same, in Thailand too, except in the parks, and in the Dominican Republic as well.
In France, it's happening too—less often, sure—but between industrial, domestic, and illegal dumps where some random person comes to dump their DIY waste even though the free recycling center is open 7 days a week.
In Nosy Be, it was Europeans who set up waste and trash collection—though locally, they’re also the biggest polluters.
It’s our way of life that’s the source of pollution, and other cultures are following suit. Why hold back?
It's our way of life that's the source of pollution—other people follow, so why deprive themselves?
Our way of life does produce more waste, sure, but it doesn’t dictate how we dispose of it.
Back in the early '80s, I remember my parents already sorting paper, glass, and aluminum. Today, in my village, we can recycle absolutely everything: cardboard, paper, plastic, Styrofoam, PET bottles, glass, scrap metal, wood, organic waste, you name it. Yeah, we pollute more than before, but we’ve also put more systems in place to sort and recycle.
When I see someone toss a glass bottle in the trash, it shocks me. I guess it’s because I was raised from a young age to know that glass is recyclable. So I’m not depriving myself by not going to the Maldives—it’s just that knowing exactly what’s happening there (waste problems and more) makes it unappealing to me...
It’s kind of how things work—when I flush the toilet, I should know where my s*** is going. Unfortunately, it usually ends up in the sea, where everyone’s swimming.
Anyway, I’ll be more careful about my destination next time. Unfortunately, I can’t cancel this trip, but my vacation is already ruined. I was prepared for not drinking tap water and avoiding raw food. But keeping my mouth shut in the shower, not daring to swim in the turquoise water because the hotel across the street dumps its wastewater there, avoiding the cenotes because they’ve become sewage outlets, and even second-guessing the pool water—since chemicals aren’t killed by chlorine—I wasn’t prepared for any of that. My girlfriend is already grossed out at the thought of dipping a toe in that mess.
Hi,
Technically, in France, wastewater goes through treatment plants and purification stations before being discharged.
European standards are pretty strict on this.
++
JP
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Lionel,
Don't paint such a bleak picture either 🙂
There’s so much to see and do, as I mentioned earlier.
Now, it’s true that if you go in with the idea that your vacation will be ruined, it definitely will. It all depends on what kind of memories you want to bring back from there—aside from traveler’s diarrhea and other potential annoyances.
The figures mentioned are from 2015:
There are 2,200,000 inhabitants in Yucatán. The population density is only 50-60 people per km², with many clustered in Mérida, compared to 120-130 in France. So, it’s actually quite low.
For Quintana Roo, the population density is 35-40 people per km², with many residents in Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Chetumal.
The underground is like a giant Swiss cheese filled with fresh water. I’m not saying this excuses everything or that it’s a great argument, but it does help put the impact of your previous post into perspective regarding water pollution from various chemical or "animal" agents. We’re not there yet—but it could definitely get worse. Except, perhaps, in very localized spots around sewage outfalls into the sea.
The upside is that bottled water isn’t expensive—18-22 pesos for 10 liters in 2017—and at that price, you can use a bit for brushing your teeth or cooking pasta :)
Anyway, I still hope you’ll enjoy discovering the Riviera Maya and Yucatán.
And, without any sarcasm, I hope you have an amazing trip.
Best,
Jp
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We should start by educating the younger generations, just like we do at home by raising awareness among children at school from a very young age. But even if they succeed, it would still take a few generations to see things really take shape and improve in a concrete way.
Hey,
There’s gonna be a lot of work to do before we reach Switzerland’s level!
I’m not familiar with the Italian part of Switzerland—have you noticed any difference in cleanliness and waste management compared to German-speaking Switzerland?
Personally, we really loved Puerto Morelos—it’s equidistant from Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
We often went to its beaches: beautiful, with fine white sand, crystal-clear water, and wildlife just a few meters in.
Puerto Morelos is a "small town" compared to Cancún or Playa, with about 15,000–20,000 residents, many living in the Colonia that’s developed north of the Cancún-Chetumal highway.
But I’ve also been told to use Google Maps to find roads branching off the main Cancún-Chetumal highway that lead to the sea, kind of like in the photo I’m attaching.
This spot is between Puerto Morelos and Cancún, heading toward Cancún.
I haven’t had a chance to try it yet, though—a friend has done it a few times without Google Maps, and you never know if the road you take actually reaches the sea.
I’ve also heard good things about Xpu-Ha Beach, not too far from Akumal.
In Playa del Carmen:
Head down to Calle 88 Norte and take the path that extends it to the sea.
It’s a quiet beach, no hotels, no bars, mostly locals—really peaceful vibes.
Compared to Playa’s main waterfront, it’s a bit farther toward Cancún.
Here you go :)
The beach in question: Public beach, sometimes seaweed on the sand.
Sorry for the delayed reply—my PC crashed while capturing the image. Tough restart... JP freaked out :)
++
JP
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I really hadn’t thought about that at all. Beyond traveler’s diarrhea, I’m especially worried about my kids—poor water quality can lead to ear infections. And yet, we’re not coming to Mexico this summer just to let them admire the sea and cenotes without enjoying them... We chose Mexico for its diverse activities and cultural appeal. But honestly, this isn’t exactly the dream...🤯
When you mention Metahual, wouldn’t it be Mahahual instead?
Anyway, after reading you a few times, I can’t help but think it’s not just traveler’s diarrhea that makes you sick—it’s condescension too...
But hey, that’s one thing that can’t be cured...
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When you talk about Metahual, wouldn’t it be Mahahual instead?
It’s the same village.....
When it comes to condescension, there are those who know and those who think they know.....😛
When I talk about condescension, this is what I mean:
""Here, no cenotes. No 'swimming' with dolphins or turtles, and certainly no Disneyland....😛
And the language everyone uses is Spanish.....😎
It's up to you, so-called backpacker-tourists who love this country, to learn their language.**
Good luck
** Because there's also cultural pollution🤪""
""Far from Playa del Whatsit and Gringoland....😛""
So, only your 'learned' vision of what tourism should be prevails?
You lump together an entire part of the Mexican population who live there, work there—as you say—thanks to the wealth tourism brings to Mexico, and you look down on them just as much as you look down on the 'tourists' who don’t fit your vision by calling their city, the place they’ve spent their whole lives, Gringoland or Playa del Whatsit.
Only you would be right, on the Pacific side of Mexico?
These people and the places they’ve built their lives wouldn’t have any interest, nothing to share or show?
I read you because I make that effort, but what you write—I’ll say it again and stand by it—could easily have the same effect as Montezuma’s revenge.
And the worst part, in my opinion, is that your off-the-cuff, sweeping statements, along with your thousands of posts on the forum (which I’ll refrain from reading, by the way), strongly encourage readers to believe you, even though the reality is far more complex, shows many more facets, and is—for now at least—far less dire than what you describe.
And that’s just intolerable to me. Because I deeply respect this country, its people, its culture, and the Riviera Maya has many strengths beyond just being some 'gringo-whatsit,' strengths that everyone should have the right to discover for themselves.
For Metahual, sorry for my ignorance—I searched last night on Gringogoogle, but found nothing relevant (a factory in Romania, dead links to anything but a beach...), which really surprised me since I’m also looking for nice beaches, and I’m naturally curious and don’t like leaving questions unanswered...
But I’ll take your word for it when you say it’s the same village. I’m heading to Mahahual in May, so I’ll get the info on the spot. (Plus Bacalar, maybe Sian Ka’an, Chetumal, and why not a trip to Belize—we’ll see.)
For Lionel, sorry—I lost track in the post that you were focusing on Tulum, so Puerto Morelos and the nice beach in PdC would actually be a bit far, since you’ll have some great ones nearby.
Condescension comes from the certainties we build, forgetting along the way to step back and question ourselves.
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For Metahual, sorry for my ignorance—I searched last night on Gringogoogle and found nothing relevant (a factory in Romania,
It’s a little hidden beach at the end of a dusty track, kind of like the one in Almuñécar in Andalusia! 😉 Not touristy at all. You’ll really have the place to yourselves!
But with a nice water park (or "water thingy" for those in the know!)
www.tripadvisor.ca/...catan_Peninsula.html
www.google.fr/...imgrc=0XNoHen-JIV1FM:
Oh no, Mahahual—I know it well ;)
It was Metahual, based on the advice of some "experts," that I couldn’t find on Google (which is pretty surprising).
I discovered Mahahual through a Nat Geo TV documentary, and what I saw really appealed to me.
I’ve done quite a bit of research on this town since then.
So I’m going to check it out for myself. That way, I’ll know for sure :)
One of my French friends who owns a house in Mexico went there in October and found it pretty "concreted over." That’s not the impression I have, so before recommending this destination, I’ll go in May.
Have a great day, Djalma.
Cheers,
JP
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The sea isn’t much better. I don’t see how anyone can still enjoy swimming in these conditions unless they’re reckless.
I’m less inclined to blame the locals than the hotel owners and politicians. One of the articles I found in English describes Tulum as a paradise of corruption. I regret contributing to the wealth of such sharks.
Hey, Lionel,
I totally get it.
I’m telling you this without any malice, sarcasm, or provocation, but I really think you’re going to regret making the trip.
Is cancellation really not an option?
Either way, I still sincerely hope you enjoy this region and what it has to offer.
Best,
JP
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Unfortunately, I’m gonna pile on here... (for lovers of the Riviera Maya and especially Playa del )
Cancún, an ecological nightmare
Cancún, the city hosting the Global Climate Summit, is far from being a model in environmental protection. The city now has 36,000 hotel rooms, most of which are stacked on a narrow strip of sand between the lagoon and the Caribbean Sea. [...] The mangroves, natural barriers against hurricanes, have been 95% destroyed. [...] The most striking example is the Moon Palace site, where the Summit is being held. Dozens of hectares of concrete buildings and golf courses were carved out of the mangroves. These same golf courses are responsible for contaminating the groundwater with fertilizers. Another consequence of this intense tourist activity [...] is the record production of waste... Nearly 400 tons per day are dumped right in the middle of the city’s poor outskirts.
Léonore Mahieux, Le Journal du dimanche, November 28, 2010.
P.S.: Cancún was developed to relieve congestion in Acapulco... Mission accomplished, but at what cost?
Unfortunately, I’m going to pile on even more... (for lovers of the Riviera Maya and especially Playa del )
Cancún, an ecological nightmare
Cancún, the city hosting the Global Climate Summit, is far from being a model in environmental protection. Today, the city has 36,000 hotel rooms, most of which are stacked on a narrow strip of sand between the lagoon and the Caribbean Sea. [...] The mangroves, natural barriers against hurricanes, have been 95% destroyed. [...] The most striking example is the Moon Palace site, where the Summit is held. Dozens of hectares of concrete buildings and golf courses were carved out of the mangroves. These same golf courses are responsible for contaminating groundwater with fertilizers. Another consequence of this intense tourist activity [...] is the record production of waste—nearly 400 tons per day are dumped right in the middle of the city’s poor outskirts.
Léonore Mahieux, Le Journal du dimanche, November 28, 2010.
P.S.; Cancún was developed to relieve congestion in Acapulco... Mission accomplished, but at what cost?
My dear Memphré,
Add as many layers as you want—I’m well aware of the problem and didn’t need your vast 2010 knowledge to realize it. But good for you, you set up three trash cans and saved the Pacific coast, respect.
Meanwhile, I love this part of Mexico—not for its hotels, which I don’t stay in, or its theme parks, which I haven’t visited yet (though I plan to check out at least one). And I’m not dismissing an entire region, its people, or its culture just because I don’t like concrete. I know how to separate the good from the bad, something you’ve clearly lost sight of given the state of your convictions. And there’s little hope things will improve.
Still, if you had even an ounce of honesty in your comments, you’d be a little more objective instead of constantly turning people off based on your personal experience.
That’s my last layer—I’ll avoid you in the future, just like everything that pollutes the cenotes.
Respectfully, though.
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What saddens me a little about what you're saying is that it's the "resident tourist" who takes the initiative to clean up. And never the local person who lives here.
And I've seen this in many countries—it's always or almost always foreigners who raise awareness. I just can't understand why the sense of cleanliness doesn't reach the average Latino. And I'll conclude with the example of where I am at Parque Urubui in Presidente Figueiredo: despite the trash cans, people just toss everything on the ground.
I couldn't say if this is widespread or not... I'm only mentioning Lo de Marcos, where I am now.
We started by putting pressure on the municipality to install trash cans, which they did... and little by little, the population became aware of the right thing to do...
Now we're moving on to a completely different stage: sterilizing dogs😛 There are so many, and many without owners...
You always have to struggle between what's culturally acceptable and what isn't (for them—for us).
Always keep in mind that this is their home. Explain and raise awareness, but absolutely avoid imposing anything...
In 25 years, everything has changed in Mexico. Starting with the emergence of a growing middle class, following Vicente Fox's credit liberalization measures.
Thanks for your post, even if it’s not exactly what I wanted to hear. Like many others, I bought into the dream-vacation image to escape my hectic year-round pace . But I’m less upset than you because I’d rather know—especially for my kids—and adjust our plans. I think there’s still plenty to do in the region, and there must be some dream beaches less affected by this issue.
When it comes to cenotes, though, it gets more complicated! I’ve been researching mostly in English because in French, all I find are glowing posts about cenotes and those dreamy photos that make you want to go right away!!
But on the English version of TripAdvisor, there are quite a few questions about cenotes and the health risks of swimming in them. Basically, there’s info about very serious risks (like skin cancer), but are these claims really scientifically reliable??? Or less severe but still vacation-ruining issues, like stomach troubles or ear infections. It’s strongly advised not to swallow any water (which seems impossible with kids), and to rinse your ears after every swim for at least 3 minutes with a half-vinegar, half-alcohol solution (info from divers, but I’ll ask my son’s ENT for their opinion). With 70 to 80% of cenotes contaminated by bacteria from various sources, it seems impossible to know which ones are safe to swim in...
I’ll keep researching, but I think we’ll skip the cenote tour (we’d planned to visit several) and maybe limit ourselves to just one—definitely not one in Tulum!! My husband might not go diving in any of them (and definitely not my daughter, as originally planned). I’ll note the beaches you recommended, and instead of Cuzuma, we’ll head to Mérida, which I hadn’t included in my itinerary due to lack of time...
Hi Anna, the seawater isn’t exactly inviting for a swim either. As for the cenotes—no way. I can’t even imagine dipping into that. Why bother? What’s the fun in bathing in a sewer? If you’re looking for more detailed info, Greenpeace released a very thorough report in 2016 on pesticide contamination in the cenotes, which is a whole other issue compared to the fecal contamination everyone talks about. It’s in Spanish and titled *Contaminación de cenotes con plaguicidas en la Península de Yucatán*.
Oh, I don’t speak Spanish. Only my husband remembers a bit from school. No, there’s really no pleasure in dipping into a sewer, but I haven’t lost hope of finding a cenote that’s cleaner than the others (and there are still a few of them!).
Hi,
laws are cantonal, but you won’t see a huge difference from one canton to another, except with the adoption of the trash bag tax, where each canton implemented it at the time it deemed most appropriate.
I think you’ve made up your mind, but for my part, I went to ask biologists or people working on-site in those cenotes, and they were very reassuring... Sure, there’s pollution we can’t deny, but it’s far from being sewers (there’s still room for improvement!). There’s no health risk. So, personally, I won’t deprive myself of the pleasure of discovering them—maybe more off the beaten path than along the Riviera Maya. That said, to avoid making the pollution worse, skip the sunscreen, deodorant, makeup, and take a good shower first.
I went to ask biologists or people working on-site in these cenotes, and they were very reassuring...
Hi Anna, thanks for looking into this. If those people are tied to local tourism, I don’t think they’re being objective. Imagine saying that 75% of the cenotes in Yucatán are polluted—it’d be an economic disaster. Given the number of converging articles, I’d rather check out other places next time and avoid the water this round. Who are these biologists? Greenpeace, whom I particularly trust, released a report that doesn’t seem very positive. And if 80% of Tulum’s hotels dump their wastewater into the ground, I don’t see how a miracle could happen.
No, they're expats who have scientific work, one of them related to the cenotes. That said, I don’t know them personally, and I didn’t question them in depth. 😕 I sent them the scientific articles in English that I found, plus the Greenpeace report, and here’s one of the responses I got: "The water *is* polluted, but mostly by pesticides and cosmetics. If you go to a cenote, I’d recommend not using perfume, deodorant, cream, etc., to avoid polluting them further. And I also see that bacteria don’t thrive very well in this environment."
From what I’ve read, swimming in cenotes is a bit like swimming in a pond or lake in France. The difference with cenotes, though—another response I got: "The water in cenotes is rainwater naturally filtered by the limestone rock (the Yucatán Peninsula is one big limestone rock). The water in cenotes has a pH of 7, and you’ll find the same water in hotel taps or our homes."
I also came across a map of cenotes showing good water quality during my research. Unfortunately, I forgot to save it and can’t find it in my history (I have to say, I scoured the whole web 😮). Anyway, the ones in Cuzamá were marked as clean—I checked because I wanted to go there. Can’t you get away from Tulum and head toward Bacalar, for example? Or visit the Sian Ka’an reserve?
I guess the 25% that’s not polluted is far from towns like Tulum. I’d rather not spend too much time on the road in 10 days. The farthest I’ll go is Valladolid. So around Tulum, I’ll be pretty limited, since I also don’t feel like swimming in the sea in front of those hotels.
A pH of 7 doesn’t mean the water’s free of pollution.
From all this, I understand that fecal matter ends up in cenotes near towns since the rock apparently filters it, and in the sea (and tap water, since treatment infrastructure seems to be failing and it’s not safe to drink from the tap). But pesticides and chemicals dumped into the sewers end up in most of the interconnected cenotes, tap water, and the sea near human activity.
Sian Ka’an is on the plan. Maybe it’s still a little preserved.
Okay, I get not swimming there.
But don’t skip visiting some of them—they’re stunning geological formations.
Pick them based on that rather than whether you can swim, and you’ll keep some amazing memories.
++
JP
MSC Melody... Croisière à oublier rapidement.
Mexique - Incroyable découverte - Expat à court terme
True, seeing it must be interesting even if it’s frustrating. Initially, unaware of the sewage and pesticide issues, I was already hesitant about jumping into a watering hole where thousands of people come to splash around—like a pool with no water treatment.
Yes, but it’s not stagnant water.
It’s water in constant motion across—or rather, beneath—the entire Yucatán Peninsula.
The network spans thousands of kilometers, and I’m not even talking about the total water volume.
Have a great trip anyway!
JP.
MSC Melody... Croisière à oublier rapidement.
Mexique - Incroyable découverte - Expat à court terme
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like!
M-Claire and Jean
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.
VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now.
The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.
Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions.
I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.
Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.
Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid?
Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again?
Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with?
Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now?
What’s really going on here?
This isn’t exactly a traveler’s question... I’d like to know who handles the technical side of this forum?
I run a similar forum on a different topic (unrecognized children), and we’re dealing with a few technical issues that are slowly killing our forum... so I’d have one or two questions to ask 😊.
Also, I was wondering who created this forum... who the administrators or moderators are, etc.
I think this forum is great. Much better than Facebook, which I’ve been using since it shut down (so I’m happy to see it’s working again...)
Hi there, I’ve been traveling for 18 years now, at least 6 months a year, and as the years go by, I actually enjoy coming back to France more and more—a feeling I struggled with at first. I mean, we always think the grass is greener elsewhere.
But in the end, I find meaning in that saying about how there’s no place like home. I still love traveling just as much, but now my trips are shorter, and I enjoy spending more time in our beautiful country, even though I don’t hesitate to criticize it.
How about you? How do you handle coming back from your travels?
A few years ago, I went with a group of friends to lend a hand at a small rural school near Thiès, Senegal.
It was a relaxed but hardworking atmosphere—hands in the mortar, laughter, exchanges, and everything that a COOPERATION project can bring.
Today, the little project is flying on its own.
Wanting to explore Senegal’s riches, we set off for some tourism in the Siné Saloum. One girl in our group fell ill (a malaria attack), and we decided to take her to see a doctor at a large tourist complex nearby. Despite her condition, we had to "show our credentials" (if I may say so) just to get in. She was treated and has been fine since.
This "stop" at a Club Med-style resort with a Teutonic twist—resembling Le Grau-du-Roi but fancier—was a horror show for us: pools, massive artificial basins dyed blue, pink, or green (!!!!), animators shouting around wet T-shirt contests or coconut tree climbing, and sunburned (or sun-pinked) *toubabs*.
The entire hotel was surrounded by a huge wall, behind which a small souvenir-seller slum had sprung up, worthy of Dakar’s outer neighborhoods.
On leaving, we saw a minibus of guests returning from an "excursion," loaded with masks, fabrics, and djembés—African souvenirs?
Maybe those will be *theirs*?
What impression did the kids clustered at the hotel gates get?
What about the Black servers in "traditional African costumes," serving cocktails and ice cream nonstop?
For me, who experienced Africa very young and in the bush, this remains a haunting image.
On VF, this kind of vacation doesn’t seem to be the norm among users, and that’s exactly why I signed up.
Have you ever experienced this kind of interstellar travel?
Do you understand the Martians?
Are their motivations peaceful?
I’ve been wondering: Is it still reasonable to rent a car in the U.S.?
Apparently, since early January 2025—and very quietly—the most important insurance coverage, namely the driver’s civil liability, has seen its coverage amount drop from $1 million to just $300,000. This coverage is supposed to protect us from damages we might be responsible for while driving. We can go decades without a single scrape (especially if it’s our fault), but anything can happen in a split second. A motorcycle appearing out of nowhere, a misjudgment at one of those huge intersections with staggered traffic lights, and suddenly we could be deemed at fault for the accident. We’d then have to pay out of pocket for the other party’s medical expenses. Given what hospitals charge... it can easily exceed $300,000 and turn into a nightmare in no time!!! Plus, anyone who’s driven on American roads has seen those billboards for lawyers offering their services to accident victims. So on top of the sky-high medical bill, the lawyer will demand compensation worthy of a Hollywood movie!!!! So, is it even worth getting behind the wheel in America anymore? Well... that’s just my take! And on top of that, I haven’t found any insurance company that offers such high civil liability coverage. Chapka and others do offer coverage in the millions, but motor vehicles are excluded.... So here’s the thing... Unless I’ve "missed something," I’ve come to this conclusion: Renting a car in the U.S. is like playing Russian roulette! But maybe I’m being too pessimistic? What do you think?
My two bullfighting traditions when I'm back home in Camargue (France) and in Colombia (Caribbean) every time I return. 🤠
Details:
Bullfights (corridas) aren’t part of my two bullfighting traditions, but I respect those who attend them!!!
In these two ancestral bullfighting traditions—which aren’t bullfights—the Bulls and Toros aren’t killed or tortured, as some might think.
These are bull games where the animals return to their pastures afterward and only come back to the Arenas 2–3 times a year at most.
They spend 15 minutes in the ring for the Camarguais and 5 minutes for the Toros in the Colombian Corralejas.
They’re cared for and pampered. They’ll die of old age in miles of open fields.
The young people who face them are professionals, risking their lives to support their families and live their Passion for the Toro!!! 😄
https://youtu.be/yYKQer42HoQ
Colombian Corraleja in the link below (hope it works) 🤪
https://fb.watch/BMfmuCgQpG/
The beach in question: Public beach, sometimes seaweed on the sand.
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