Grâce à la lecture des carnets de voyage et des discussions sur le forum, j'ai élaboré un itinéraire de 4 semaines de Windhoek aux chutes Victoria. Le projet a été envoyé à une agence et je souhaiterais également vous le soumettre afin d'avoir vos avis et/ou retours d'expérience. Le voyage aura lieu du 7 octobre au 3 novembre 2018. Nous serons 4 adultes et voyagerons donc dans un seul véhicule. Nous n'avons pas envisagé l'option "camping" car mon mari souffre du dos. Je précise les logements sélectionnés afin que vous puissiez éventuellement me donner des retours. Merci d'avance pour toutes vos remarques et critiques qui me permettront d'optimiser ce voyage qui me fait rêver depuis pas mal de temps !
J1 Windkhoek-Mariental (Bagatelle Kalahari GH)
J2 Mariental - Sesriem (Sossluvlei Lodge)
J3 Sesriem
J4 Sesriem - Naukluft (Barchan Dunes Retreat)
J5 Naukluft - Walvis Bay en empruntant les pistes traversières (Lagoon Lodge)
J6 Walvis Bay (excursion bateau + 4x4)
J7 Walvis Bay - Swakopmund - Spitzkoppe via la Welwitschia Drive (Spitzkoppen Lodge)
J8 Spitzkoppe - Brandberg (visite guidée jusqu'aux pétroglyphes) - Twyffelfontein (Camp Kipwe)
J9 Twyffelfontein - Palmwag - Grootberg (Grootberg Lodge)
J10 Grootberg - Khowareb (Khowareb Lodge)
J11 Khowareb (journée à la recherche des éléphants du désert avec l'hôtel)
J12 Khowareb - Camp Aussicht
J13 Camp Aussicht (rencontre des Himbas avec Marius)
J14 Camp Aussicht - Opuwo - Epupa Falls (Omarunga Lodge)
J15 Epupa Falls - Kunene (Kunene River Lodge)
J16 Kunene (Kunene River Lodge)
J17 Kunene - Etosha (Dolomite Camp)
J18 Etosha (Okaukuejo Camp)
J19 Etosha (Onguma Treetop Camp)
J20 Grootfontein (Fiume Bush Camp)
J21 Grootfontein (rencontre des Bushmen)
J22 Grootfontein - Kavango (Kivava Okavongo Lodge)
J23 Kavango - Sangwali (Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge)
J24 Sangwali - Kasane (River View Lodge)
J25 Kasane (River View Lodge)
J26 Kasane - Victoria Falls (Ilala Lodge)
J27 Victoria Falls - Windhoek - Francfort
Pensez-vous qu'une nuit suffit à Epupa Falls ou bien faut-il supprimer une nuit à Kunene au profit d'Epupa Falls (plus de rencontre des Himbas puisque prévu avec Marius) ?
A Etosha, est-ce que 3 nuits suffisent (même si la dernière nuit est prévue dans un logement à l'extérieur du parc, je compte bien retourner dans le parc la matinée du J20). Aussi, pour la 2è nuit à Etosha, je ne sais s'il faut privilégier Okaukuejo ou Halali (tant au niveau de l'emplacement que du charme (?) du logement).
Salut!
Ca fait un sacré budget, je te conseille déjà de demander plusieurs devis et plutôt aux agences ayant pignon sur rueen Namibie qu'aux TO en France car tu paieras moins cher pour le même service. quelques réflexions dans ton mail.
J1 Windkhoek-Mariental (Bagatelle Kalahari GH) ok
J2 Mariental - Sesriem (Sossluvlei Lodge) bof c'est un gros truc impersonnel gros hôtel, il vaut mieux le desert camp hoodia voire sossus dune lodge
J3 Sesriem 2 jours sur place tu feras la même chose les deux jours
J4 Sesriem - Naukluft (Barchan Dunes Retreat) ok
J5 Naukluft - Walvis Bay en empruntant les pistes traversières (Lagoon Lodge) ok
J6 Walvis Bay (excursion bateau + 4x4) je déconseille les 2 dans la même journée tu n'iras pas voir sandwich harbour pas le temps
J7 Walvis Bay - Swakopmund - Spitzkoppe via la Welwitschia Drive (Spitzkoppen Lodge) ok mais c'est cher !
J8 Spitzkoppe - Brandberg (visite guidée jusqu'aux pétroglyphes) - Twyffelfontein (Camp Kipwe) pk mais c'est cher !
J9 Twyffelfontein - Palmwag - Grootberg (Grootberg Lodge) ok
J10 Grootberg - Khowareb (Khowareb Lodge) ok
J11 Khowareb (journée à la recherche des éléphants du désert avec l'hôtel) il vaut mieux le faire au grootberg et y rester 2 nuits
J12 Khowareb - Camp Aussicht
J13 Camp Aussicht (rencontre des Himbas avec Marius) super
J14 Camp Aussicht - Opuwo - Epupa Falls (Omarunga Lodge)
J15 Epupa Falls - Kunene (Kunene River Lodge) bof mieux vaut 2 nuits à epupa et zapper ruacana
J16 Kunene (Kunene River Lodge)
J17 Kunene - Etosha (Dolomite Camp) nul le repas est mauvais, plutôt choisir hobatere
J18 Etosha (Okaukuejo Camp)
J19 Etosha (Onguma Treetop Camp) super mais cher
J20 Grootfontein (Fiume Bush Camp)
J21 Grootfontein (rencontre des Bushmen)
J22 Grootfontein - Kavango (Kivava Okavongo Lodge)
J23 Kavango - Sangwali (Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge)
J24 Sangwali - Kasane (River View Lodge)
J25 Kasane (River View Lodge)
J26 Kasane - Victoria Falls (Ilala Lodge)
J27 Victoria Falls - Windhoek - Francfort
Bonjour Brigitte
Globalement c'est pas mal( je ne connais pas la fin).
Quelques remarques :
-a Sesriem je vous conseille très fortement le Sossus Dune Lodge qui est le seul qui vous permette de partir avant le lever de soleil ; être le premier à Sossusvlei, c'est fabuleux.
- j'aurai fait 2 nuits à Grootberg pour faire les rhinocéros le second jour et 1 nuit à Khowarib; de là le chemin jusqu'au Camp Aussicht est court et vous pouvez faire les éléphants et partir dans la foulée
-j'aurais inversé le nombre de nuits entre Epupa qui est superbe et Kunene.
-Etosha, ça se vaut je trouve mais les 2 n'ont aucun charme, l'intérêt étant le point d'eau.
Jacques
J'avais choisi le Sossluvlei Lodge pour sa proximité avec le parc et ses bons retours mais je vais envisager le Sossus Dune Lodge qui est encore mieux placé. Tu n'es pas le seul à estimer qu'une journée suffit mais l'endroit parait tellement exceptionnel que j'ai envie de m'y poser. En outre, les deux journées nous permettront d'assister aux levers et couchers de soleil à des endroits différents.
Walvis Bay : je n'avais pas pensé à Sandwich Harbour (je croyais qu'avec l'excursion, on avait la "totale" 🤪). Zut alors, car le 4x4 dans les dunes me tente aussi beaucoup !
Grootberg et Khowareb : au départ, j'avais imaginé aller jusqu'à Purros mais étant donné que la piste est difficile et qu'on n'aura qu'un seul véhicule (dans ce cas pas recommandé), j'ai abandonné l'idée (à regret). L'excursion avec le Khowareb Lodge me permettait de passer une journée dans le lit de la rivière Hoanib (les retours semblent bons). Je ne serais pas contre le fait de passer une journée de plus à Grootberg (le lieu semble fabuleux) mais que faire alors à Khowareb (les excursions à la demi-journée semblent avoir moins d'intérêt).
Epupa - Ruacana : j'inverserais donc (2 nuits à Epupa et 1 nuit à Ruacana)
Etosha : j'ai aussi lu les retours mitigés sur le Dolomite Camp mais la situation semble exceptionnelle et permet de visiter une partie du parc qui ne peut être vue autrement. Tout le monde s'accorde à dire que les logements à l'extérieur du parc sont de meilleure qualité mais ils ne permettent pas de voir la faune aux points d'eau à la nuit tombée. C'est pourquoi j'ai conservé deux nuits à l'intérieur mais j'hésite encore sur le choix des lieux/lodges. Le Dolomite semblait une évidence mais tu me fais encore hésiter 😕
Merci pour tes remarques. Je suis confortée dans certains choix (le Camp Aussicht fait l'unanimité 😎) mais je vais repenser certaines étapes en fonction de tes critiques.
Merci pour ton message ! Tes avis rejoignent ceux de Louison (les grands esprits se rencontrent 😛).
Le choix du Sossus Dune Lodge semble faire l'unanimité ainsi que les deux nuits à Grootberg. Je vais me renseigner sur la possibilité de faire l'excursion "Journée éléphants" sans dormir une deuxième nuit au Khowareb ... c'est vrai que ce serait l'idéal mais est-ce que c'est possible ?
Bien noté pour Epupa et Kunene : on inverse !
Etosha : effectivement, l'intérêt de dormir dans le parc réside dans le point d'eau le soir ... Je me tâte vraiment pour le choix de la première nuit : Dolomite ou pas Dolomite 😕, that's the question !
Bonjour Brigitte
Pour Sandwich Harbour c'est possible de faire les 2 dans la journée ( on l'a fait il y a plusieurs années, ça dépend de l'heure de la marée; tu peux regarder à l'avance le calendrier des marées).
Purros, je te recommande chaudement ; il faut un 4x4 mais pas de connaissances dans la conduite ; c'est vraiment facile, pas nécessaire d'avoir 2 véhicules (pas mal de passage), il faut juste savoir que tu mets 3 h il me semble pour faire Sesfontein-Purros. Comme tu es certaine de voir des éléphants ( par contre si tu ne fais pas de camping le lodge est hors de prix), tu peux supprimer la nuit à Khowarib et celle à Kunene.
Après, Purros au lodge je ne sais pas si ça a le même charme....
Jacques
Je resterais aussi deux nuits à Epupa et une au Kunene River Lodge.
Deux nuits à Sesriem est parfait. C'est tellement beau, nous y retournerons l'année prochaine avant de descendre dans le sud de la Namibie.
A Khowareb, nous avons fait une randonnée jusqu'aux chutes. Elles sont petites, mais nous avons eu beaucoup de plaisir à marcher dans la rivière. Le paysage est beau et les falaises sont bien colorées.
A Walvis Bay, la sortie kayak parmis les otaries est géniale. Je la conseille fortement.
L'Onguma Tree Top est un petit Lodge magnifique. Nous avons vu pas mal d'animaux au point d'eau. Les chambres sont très sympas, on a très bien mangé, le personel était très attentionné... bref, tout était parfait.
A Kasane, je conseille le Bush Lodge. Les chambres sont magnifiques et on y mange très très bien. Par contre, on n'a pas la vue sur la rivière. Pour la sortie bateau sur la rivière Chobe, je conseille de prendre un petit bateau privatif. C'est plus sympa et tu peux t'arrêter quand tu veux pour faire des photos. Nous l'avions réservé avec Chobe Charlin Charters.
Bonjour, une ou deux petites réflexions supplémentaires...
Walvis Bay : je n'avais pas pensé à Sandwich Harbour (je croyais qu'avec l'excursion, on avait la "totale" 🤪). Zut alors, car le 4x4 dans les dunes me tente aussi beaucoup !
Je confirme que c'est possible de faire les deux dans la journée, nous l'avons fait en 2015.
Etosha : j'ai aussi lu les retours mitigés sur le Dolomite Camp mais la situation semble exceptionnelle et permet de visiter une partie du parc qui ne peut être vue autrement.
A part la piste jusqu'au camp, je ne crois pas qu'on perde beaucoup de visite du parc en n'allant pas à Dolomite. Tu pensais à quoi en particulier?
Bons préparatifs !
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Merci pour les précisions pour Sandwich Harbour ... je vérifierai l'heure des marées 🙂
Purros ne sera malheureusement pas au programme car comme tu le signales, le lodge est hors de prix et on ne fait pas de camping (en outre, j'ai pu lire que si des animaux tournent autour de la tente, il faut rester silencieux ... étant donné que mon mari non seulement ronfle mais a également des apnées du sommeil quand il ne lui arrive pas aussi de crier en dormant, si un lion passe par là, on va se faire extraire de la tente et bouffer tout crus 🤪). On se contentera donc de la journée organisée par le Khowarib Lodge en y logeant deux nuits ... Il y a de bons retours !
Super pour Walvis Bay 🙂 Avec quelle compagnie avais-tu fait l'excursion ?
Pour le Dolomite Camp, je pensais que cette partie du parc présentait de l'intérêt et qu'on ne pouvait y accéder qu'en y dormant mais il semble qu'on puisse maintenant y passer sans y loger. J'envisage donc de prévoir une nuit à Hobatere et de rejoindre Okaukuejo le lendemain en passant par la Galton Gate et en traversant donc cette partie du parc.
Je profite de ce message pour vous soumettre mon nouveau projet d'itinéraire. Gros changement : nous ne montons plus vers la bande de Caprivi (plus de parc Chobe et de chutes Victoria 🙁). Cette décision a été motivée par la longueur du voyage et son coût 🤪 ! Les économies réalisées (plus de frais d'abandon du véhicule, pas de vol pour rejoindre Windhoek et économie des 5 nuits assez chères dans cette région) nous permettent d'ajouter des nuits sur le restant du parcours et d'être plus "confortable" pour prévoir les journées de safari avec les lodges. Voici donc le nouveau itinéraire :
J1 Windhoek (Londigini) : cette nuit n'était pas prévue mais étant donné que les billets d'avion ne sont pas encore réservés, c'est plus prudent et pas de stress avec les horaires !
J2 Windhoek - Mariental (Bagatelle Kalahari GH)
J3 Mariental - Sesriem (Sossus Dune Lodge pour une seule nuit car beaucoup plus cher que le Sossusvlei Lodge)
J4 Sesriem (Sossuvlei Lodge)
J5 Sesriem - Naukluft (Barchan Dunes Retreat)
J6 Naukluft - Walvis Bay (Lagoon Lodge)
J7 Walvis Bay (excursion bateau, Sandwich Harbour et 4x4 dans les dunes)
J8 Walvis Bay - Swakopmund - Spitzkoppe via la Welwitschia Drive (Spitzkoppen Lodge)
J9 Spitzkoppe - Brandberg (visite guidée jusqu'aux pétroglyphes) - Twyfelfontein (Camp Kipwe)
J10 Twyfelfontein - Palmwag - Grootberg (Grootberg Lodge)
J11 Grootbert (journée éléphants ou rhinocéros avec le lodge)
J12 Grootberg - Khowareb (Khowareb Lodge)
J13 Khowareb (journée éléphants ou rhinocéros avec le lodge)
J14 Khowareb - Camp Aussicht
J15 Camp Aussicht (rencontre des Himbas avec Marius)
J16 Camp Aussicht - Opuwo - Epupa Falls (Omarunga Lodge)
J17 Epupa Falls
J18 Epupa Falls - Kunene (Kunene River Lodge)
J19 Kunene - Hobatere (Hobatere Lodge)
J20 Hobatere - Etosha (Okaukuejo Camp)
J21 Etosha (Okaukuejo Camp ou Halali ???) Faut-il inclure cette journée ?
J22 Etosha (Onguma Treetop Camp)
J23 Etosha - Grootfontein (Fiume Bush Camp)
J24 Grootfontein (journée avec les Bushmen)
J25 Grootfontein - Otjiwarongo (Frans Indongo Lodge)
J26 Otjiwarongo - Windhoek (visite du Cheetah Conservation Fund avant de rejoindre Windhoek)
En fonction des horaires d'avion, nuit à Windhoek ou aéroport
Quelques interrogations :
Pour les journées "éléphants" et "rhinocéros", quelle visite avec quel lodge ? (Grootberg ou Khowareb)
J'ai donc remplacé la première nuit au Dolomite par une nuit à Hobatere. Une deuxième nuit est prévue à Okaukuejo et une troisième à la porte est du parc (Onguma). Une nuit supplémentaire est-elle nécessaire dans le parc et si oui, dans quel lodge (+ 1 à Okaukuejo ou Halali ?)
J'aimerais visiter une école. Quelqu'un peut-il me conseiller et me communiquer les coordonnées d'une personne à contacter pour effectuer une telle visite.
Encore merci à ceux qui sont déjà intervenus pour me donner des précisions ou des conseils et d'avance merci pour vos nouvelles réponses !
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Pour Purros, il me semble avoir lu qu'on ne pouvait pas réserver à l'avance (c'est une des raisons qui avaient aussi motivé notre décision de ne pas pousser jusque là) ... mais je me trompe peut-être ... Aussi, par rapport au camping, cela n'a plus le même charme. Je vais voir avec le reste de la troupe 😉
Bonjour Brigitte
Entre Khowarib et Grootberg, privilégie Grootberg pour les rhinocéros ( très peu de chance à Khowarib, 10% d'après ce qu'ils nous avait dit) ; par contre tu as de fortes chances de voir des éléphants à Khowarib.
Je n'aurais pas rajouté une nuit supplémentaire à Etosha car tu as déjà quasiment 3 jours pleins possibles ( on peut compter la journée ou tu fais le transfert vers Grootfontein qui est de 2 heures).
Tu pourrais recaser cette nuit dans le Namibrand ( family Hideout par exemple qui a un logement en dur également en plus des emplacements de camping).
Jacques
Je reviens sur Etosha...
Je suis d accord avec tout le mal qui a été dit a propos de Dolomite qui est un beau concept très mal executé.
Hobatere est vraiment très bien mais une nuit seulement c est assez court, et surtout une journée pour faire Hobatere - Okaukuejo c est du gâchis.
Au final, je passerai plutôt 2 jours a Okaukuejo, dans un des chalets près du waterhole.
De toutes façons la partie Dolomite - Okaukuejo n'est pas la meilleure, si tu restes 3j dans le parc autant faire l'impasse que d'essayer de tout faire.
On ne pas pas dire que ce soit un lieu de charme, mais l atmosphere a Okaukuejo est très agreable, le restaurant honorable et le waterhole le soir est vraiment un spectacle extraordinaire.
Ensuite passe une nuit a Halali ou Namutomi, de toutes façons la meilleure partie du parc c est l axe Okaukuejo-Namutomi.
Si tu cherches quelquechose plus "upmarket", plutôt que Dolomite tu peux regarder Onkoshi Camp. Nous y sommes allés il y a 3 ans si le service n était pas parfait c était très sympa quand meme, en tout cas bien mieux que Dolomite.
J'ai commencé à lire ton carnet et je me régale. Nous aimons aussi randonner et j'avais déjà prévu d'aller vers Blutkuppe avant de rejoindre Walvis Bay. Je mets donc la randonnée Sculpture Rock Trail au programme 😉. Le secteur d'Ameib me tente aussi beaucoup mais comme tu le soulignes, il faut faire des choix. La randonnée à Kowhareb a l'air très sympa !
Pour le Bush Lodge, il est effectivement très beau ... mais aussi très cher ! Le choix de la période (novembre) a de grosses répercussions sur le budget ! On aurait dû y penser avant !
Un choix douloureux sera de supprimer le secteur nord ouest avec Aussicht Camp et Epupa Falls, ou bien la bande de Caprivi, Chobe et les chutes Victoria, donc rejoindre Windhoek via Otjirawango. Car le budget n'est pas extensible et je ne veux pas trop courir pour en caser le plus possible. Etant donné qu'on part en novembre, faut-il aller jusqu'à Epupa Falls ? Je n'en dors plus tellement je suis tiraillée entre toutes les possibilités et c'est tellement difficile de devoir renoncer à certaines étapes 🤪
Nous aimons aussi randonner et j'avais déjà prévu d'aller vers Blutkuppe avant de rejoindre Walvis Bay. Je mets donc la randonnée Sculpture Rock Trail au programme 😉. Le secteur d'Ameib me tente aussi beaucoup mais comme tu le soulignes, il faut faire des choix. La randonnée à Kowhareb a l'air très sympa !
Oui, les deux sont très sympas et vraiment différentes. Après, difficile de savoir s'il y a encore de l'eau dans rivière en novembre. La randonnée à Kowhareb sans eau risque d'être moins jolie.
Pour le Bush Lodge, il est effectivement très beau ... mais aussi très cher ! Le choix de la période (novembre) a de grosses répercussions sur le budget ! On aurait dû y penser avant !
Nous avons eu deux suites au Bush Lodge à la place de la chambre familiale du Chobe Safari Lodge. C'était donc une bonne affaire pour nous.😉
Un choix douloureux sera de supprimer le secteur nord ouest avec Aussicht Camp et Epupa Falls, ou bien la bande de Caprivi, Chobe et les chutes Victoria, donc rejoindre Windhoek via Otjirawango. Car le budget n'est pas extensible et je ne veux pas trop courir pour en caser le plus possible. Etant donné qu'on part en novembre, faut-il aller jusqu'à Epupa Falls ? Je n'en dors plus tellement je suis tiraillée entre toutes les possibilités et c'est tellement difficile de devoir renoncer à certaines étapes 🤪
Difficile de te conseiller, nous avons adoré le nord, donc Epupa, mais aussi la bande de Caprivi et Chobe au Botswana. Je pense qu'il faut décider si vous préférez voir plus d'animaux ou les paysages. Chobe et la bande de Caprivi c'est clairement pour les animaux et Epupa pour les paysages. Je ne sais pas s'il y a encore beaucoup d'eau à Epupa au mois de novembre, mais ce sera le même problème à Victoria Falls.
Franchement, j'aurais la peine de choisir, il faudra revenir.😉 Si c'est qu'une question de prix, vous pouvez peut-être essayer de prendre des Lodges un peu moins chers et aussi réserver quelques Guest Houses.
La région d'Erongo, donc Ameib, est vraiment chouette. Par contre, je ne peux rien dire sur les chambres, nous étions en camping.
Bonne préparation et n'hésite pas à poser des questions si tu en as en lisant le carnet.
Les économies réalisées (plus de frais d'abandon du véhicule, pas de vol pour rejoindre Windhoek et économie des 5 nuits assez chères dans cette région) nous permettent d'ajouter des nuits sur le restant du parcours et d'être plus "confortable" pour prévoir les journées de safari avec les lodges.
Pour le vol, ce n'est pas forcement plus cher de faire Belgique-Windhoek et retour Victoria Falls-Windhoek-Belgique. Bizarrement, pour nous c'était même moins cher que de faire un Francfort-Windhoek aller-retour. Il faut juste prendre un vol multi-destination et non et vol Victoria Falls-Windhoek seul.
En ce qui concerne les safaris organisés par les Lodges de Palmwag et Khowareb, je trouve que c'est vraiment cher. Tu peux aussi faire une excursion pour voir les éléphants du desert depuis le Brandberg ou Twyffelfontein, bien moins onéreux.
Perso, je trouve deux jours à Palmwag et deux à Khowareb c'est beaucoup. Je mettrais une nuit dans la région d'Erongo ou alors tu peux envisager un circuit avec la bande de Caprivi en prenant des Lodges moins chers.
Pour Purros, il me semble avoir lu qu'on ne pouvait pas réserver à l'avance (c'est une des raisons qui avaient aussi motivé notre décision de ne pas pousser jusque là) ... mais je me trompe peut-être ... Aussi, par rapport au camping, cela n'a plus le même charme. Je vais voir avec le reste de la troupe 😉
Bon dimanche !
Pour ma part, et à l'opposé de la plupart des membres s'exprimant sur le sujet sur VF, je n'ai eu aucune envie de camper à Purros. Les sanitaires ultra rudimentaires sous des arbres, les crottes d'éléphants laissant présumer des passages fréquents m'ont toujours fait reculer et dormir en dur. Peut-être parce que je voyageais avec des enfants relativement jeune? J'ai pourtant adoré cet endroit, et le charme a opéré les deux fois... 🙂
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Je note donc : rhinocéros avec Grootberg et éléphants avec Khowareb ... J'avoue ne pas trop comprendre quelle est la différence entre la recherche des éléphants ou la recherche des rhinocéros. L'approche est-elle différente ? Je suppose qu'on part à la recherche d'animaux sauvages et qu'ensuite, c'est au petit bonheur la chance ... Pourquoi y a-t-il une différence de tarif en fonction du choix ?
Le family Hideout se trouve plus au sud ... cette étape apporterait-elle qq chose en plus ?
Merci pour ton message. J'avoue ne pas trop bien comprendre ... L'étape à Hobatere remplacerait celle à Dolomite et le lendemain, nous rejoindrions Okaukuejo. Tu me dis que c'est trop court mais que ce n'est pas la meilleure partie du parc ... la traverser ne serait-il dont pas suffisant ? Il faut de toute façon rejoindre Okaujuejo depuis Hobatere, dont autant le faire via le parc, non ? Si la meilleure partie du parc est celle qui rejoint Okaujuejo - Namutoni, la meilleure option ne serait-elle pas de passer une nuit à Okaukuejo et l'autre à Halali ? Quant à ta proposition de loger à Onkoshi Camp, cette étape ne fera-t-elle pas double emploi avec la nuit à Onguma (qui nous permet d'encore visiter le parc le lendemain jusqu'à midi).
C'est vraiment un choix difficile ... Plus je lis et plus cela devient compliqué 🤪 Je me dis que si je n'inclus pas le parc Chobe, je n'irai peut-être jamais au Botswana tant les prix sont encore plus élevés qu'en Namibie ... mais j'aurais vraiment de la peine à supprimer le nord de la Namibie. Et je ne veux pas non plus diminuer la qualité au détriment de la quantité (c'est vrai qu'on pourrait remplacer certains lodges plus onéreux par d'autres mais il y a souvent la situation idéale (par exemple au Spitzkoppe) qui a motivé ce choix. C'est plus facile quand on fait un mixte "camping- lodges" ...
Peux-tu me confirmer que ce n'était pas possible de réserver ? Suivant les périodes de l'année, je suppose que tu prends le risque d'arriver et de ne pas avoir de place 🤪 Et dans un tel cas, s'il est trop tard pour rebrousser chemin, que fais-tu si tu n'as pas de matériel de camping (on sera à quatre dans une voiture ... difficile d'envisager d'y passer la nuit !)
C'est juste, je n'avais pas fait attention a ton point de depart avant Hobatere.
En fait, je pense que tu ne vas pas beaucoup profiter de Hobatere en y passant juste une nuit et c'est dommage car tu n'auras pas beaucoup de temps pour en profiter ( il faut au moins que tu y arrives avant 15h pour faire un game drive). J'y suis allé l'année de leur réouverture et c'était vraiment très sympa.
Donc a la reflection, je pense que tu pourrais allouer tes nuits différemment, 2 nuits a Hobatere, 2 nuits a Okaukuejo et laisser tomber Onguma.
Hobatere est peut être moins chic mais plus intéressant a mon avis que Onguma en terme de wildlife / Game Drives. A toi de voir selon tes propres gouts.
Dans tous les cas, je pense qu'Etosha mérite qu'on y passe 2 nuits, puisque tu avais l'air d'hésiter.
J espere que c'est plus clair !
Bonsoir
sur le lien que je t'ai envoyé, il y a la possibilité et d'envoyer une demande par mail et de téléphoner, il est peut-être donc possible de réserver? Nous y sommes allés deux fois en octobre et avons toujours trouvé de la place pour six mais je ne peux pas être affirmative sur le sujet, évidemment, je ne veux pas que tu dormes à 4 dans une voiture de ma faute ! 😛
Anne-Marie
Carnets : Namibie en camping car, l'Est de l'Afrique du Sud, du KTP au Kaokoland en 4x4, la Norvège en hiver 2x, l'Ecosse en hiver, la Namibie avec remorque, l'Islande en camping car en juin, le tout avec 4 enfants, dans le profil https://voyageforum.com/v.f?membre=Caperam;
Grootberg je ne connais pas mais pour Khowarib les zones de recherches sont totalement différentes, ce qui peut aussi expliquer la différence de prix ( le rhinotracking se fait dans la concession de Palmwag qui est à 1 h de route ).
Family Hideout : le Namibrand est une concession magnifique avec des paysages (dunes pas très hautes mais aux couleurs rouges) différents de Sossusvlei. En cherchant sur le net, tu pourras avoir une idée des paysages.
Hobatere: le lodge est très sympa mais d'après notre expérience la faune n'est pas aussi riche qu'à Etosha et je privilégierais Etosha: depuis Hobatere une première journée à l'ouest d'Etosha et rayonner l'après-midi aux environs d'Okaukuejo, deuxième journée avec le trajet vers l'est en passant par Halali et troisième jour où tu peux revenir passer une grosse demi journée du côté de Namutoni à partir d'onguma ( ou safari dans la réserve privée avec guide ).
Jacques
Family Hideout : très beau mais il faut que je vois si je peux encore caser cette étape (il faudra vraiment penser à un deuxième voyage car plus je vous lis et plus j'ai envie d'ajouter des étapes mais malheureusement les jours et le budget ne sont pas extensibles 🤪 Qu'il est difficile de faire des choix !
Pour Etosha, cela donnerait donc : 1 nuit à Hobatere, 1 à Okaukuejo, 1 à Halali et 1 à Onguma en revenant le lendemain matin pour la partie ouest. Ca me semble effectivement bien équilibré et nous donnerait un bel aperçu du parc !
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Namibie · 8 replies
Je lance ce post pour un projet sur l'été 2015. J'ai découvert la Namibie en 2011, et bien sur l'envie de retourner dans "ce coin là" est très forte.Le circuit…
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Existe-t-il un loueur sérieux et spécialiste (le prix étant secondaire) de 4X4 équipés vraiment "Off-Road" (pneus tout terrain X 6; autonomie importante en…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 58 replies
Le projet "Namibie" avance. Nous sommes donc 6 adultes aux alentours de 26 ans (aie le nombre pour la location!) et nous partons du 3 au 28 octobre. Nous…
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Dans un an ou deux, nous voulons avec des amis constituer un groupe pour visiter le nord de la Namibie (pays Himba et bande de Caprivi) et le Bostwana. (sans…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Namibie · 8 replies
Nous avons deja beaucoup voyagé autour du monde ds differantes conditions, du roots aux hotels corrects voire de "standing". Nous ne connaissons pas l'Afrique…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?