Je voudrais bien faire un long voyage en vélo passant par le caucase, et j'hésite à rejoindre l'Iran via l'Arménie ou l'Azerbaidjan.
Comme je peine à trouver des info sur ce dernier, je compte sur les nombreux voyageurs aguéris de ce forum!
Notamment, y a t'il de beaux monasteres et châteaux comme en Arménie voisine?
Est il possible de se baigner dans la Caspienne, ou la mer est-t-elle trop polluée (puits de pétrole ou autre)? Ou
peut être qu'il est mal vu de mettre un maillot de bain en public?
J'ai passé une quinzaine de jours en Azerbaïdjan cet été et t'avoue que j'ai été pas mal déçu. Le village de Kish est plus qu'interessant, mais l'excés touristes me met mal à l'aise. En voyageant en vélo tu devrais avoir la possibilité de visiter des villages reculés et non touristiques et devrais apprécier. Sinon, en arrivant de Géorgie (je pense), tu arrives à Sheki ou une nuit dans le caravanserai s'impose. Le château est à voir également. Le centre historique de Bakou est lui décevant. Ne pas râter dans les environs les volcans de boue près de Golestan. C'est ce qui m'a le plus marqué dans le pays. Mais, quand même, le pays n'arrive pas à la cheville de l'Iran tant pour les visites que pour l'accueil des habitants. Autour de Bakou, le gaz qui sort de terre à Yanardag est original. Le caravanserai transformé en temple zoroastrien est beau si on n'est jamais allé en Iran.
Trouver les volcans de Golestan est assez difficile. Il faut aller sur la route du site préhistorique. Rester sur la route nationale après le croisement des grottes (entrée de Golestan) pendant quelques kilomètres. Essayer de repérer sur la gauche des volcans (pas très haut). Il faut prendre une piste quelques centaines de mètres avant, aller vers la mer, puis prende à droite vers les volcans. En vélo tout terrain, c'est possible. Sinon, vous pouvez appeler le taxi qui m'a transporté (il ne connaissait pas, on s'est bien enlisé, grosse galère, mais maintenant qu'il connaît, ça ira bien !). Gassan, au 055.663.73.23, ne parle qu'azerbaidjanais (et russe ?). Très sympa.
Pour aller en bus à la plage à Bakou, vous pouvez prendre le bus n° 124 pour Shoki. Il peut se prendre sur la route du bord de mer, au niveau de la vieille ville par exemple. Le trajet coûte 0, 3 manats. A la plage, pas de problème pour le maillot. Bien sûr, en vélo, vous aurez la possibilité d'aller à la plage ailleurs qu'à Bakou. Elles sont sûrement bien plus agréables. Attention aux serpents jaunes et noirs près des côtes rocheuses : impressionnant de les voir nager mais peut-être très dangereux...
J’ai croisé, à Shaki, au printemps 2006 (lors de mon séjour en Azerbaïdjan) un lyonnais à vélo en route pour la Chine.
Il venait d’Europe via la Géorgie, avait " zappé " l’Arménie, et allait ultérieurement (depuis Baku) prendre le ferry pour Turkmenbachy.
C’est le seul cycliste rencontré et n’ai croisé personne qui allait en Iran.
Il y a quelques sites intéressants (confer post précédent) mais l’Azerbaïdjan offre plus des possibilités de randonnées et de marche dans les montagnes que de visites de sites " incontournables ".
Sur le fond, les deux sont intéressants mais c’est plutôt à vous de voir en fonction de vos intérêts.
L’Arménie est peut-être un peu plus " mignonne ", je veux dire par là un mélange de désuet, de charme et de " vieilles pierres " dans les montagnes. Un sentiment très particulier…
La Transcaucasie c’est avant une question d’atmosphère…
Le port du maillot de bain sur la plage ne pose pas problème. Si les azéris sont majoritairement chiites, on est à des millénaires de leurs " frères " iraniens…
Il est possible de se baigner dans la Caspienne mais si possible en dehors de la péninsule d’Absheron car il y a une (forte) pollution de l’eau et beaucoup de traces d’hydrocarbures…
Habitant Colmar, pourquoi n’iriez-vous pas au Petit Campeur à Strasbourg feuilleter le guide de Mark Elliott consacré à l’Azerbaïdjan (Trailblazer) ? Il est très complet et contient assez bien de photos. Il pourra vous aider à vous faire votre opinion.
Le LP est bien moins complet et hormis pour un avantage de poids (3 pays en 1 guide), il est plus pertinent d’employer le Bradt (1 titre chacun pour Arménie et Géorgie) ou le Trailblazer (excellent) pour l’Azerbaïdjan.
Pour une fois, je vais m’abstenir de commenter les chefs d’œuvre du " Futé "…
Et pourtant, il y a tant à dire…
En 2003, j'ai utilisé pour la première et dernière fois le "Futé" consacré à l'Arménie.
La partie Arménie contenue dans le LP était très (trop) courte et le Bradt n'était pas encore sorti.
Le "Futé" est bâclé et mal ficelé. Il n'est pas pratique du tout.
Bref, une daube sans nom...
Il devrait se faire appeler "Bâclé"...
En 2006, j'ai croisé un québécois qui a eu la lumineuse idée (...) de prendre le Bâclé consacré à l'Azerbaïdjan...
Il est tout aussi mal ficelé et d'une nullité affolante...
Comme certains forumistes me reprochent mes classiques critiques concernant ce "guide" (les guillemets sont intentionnels), voila pourquoi je me suis (presque) abstenu de donner mon avis sur cette collection culte...
Je suis de plus en plus pour passer par l'Arménie, malgrés les cols qui nous y attendent! Y va falloir pédaler, mais j'ai l'impression que ca vaut + le coup, et que c'est peut être un poil plus court pour rejoindre l'Iran, aussi...
dommage dommage moi j avais bien aimé la section dans les montagnes entre sheki et la frontiere georgienne, c est pas spectaculaire (bon y a des vieilles pierres et le caucase quand meme...) mais pour les rencontres, vraiment genial, chaque vallee abrite une minorité ethnique ou linguistique et les gens aiment bien 'kidnapper' le touriste de passage.
Merci pour ce conseil...
Ma décision n'est pas encore arrêtée. Peut être qu'arrivé si loin avec nos vélos, nous serons content de se baigner dans la caspienne, aussi!
Je crois qu'on prendra une décision à Tbilissi, au moment de faire les visas! L'déal serait d'avoir le temps de visiter les 2 pays, mais là vraiment j'en doute!
En attendant, tous les avis sont bons à prendre, alors encore merci!
Attention tu risques d'avoir des problémes avec les autorités Armeniennes et Azéri si tu passes d'un pays à l'autre car ces 2 pays sont en conflit depuis 1991 car l'armée arménienne occupe 15% du térritoire Azéri (région du Karabagk et corridor de Latchine). La frontiére entre les 2 pays est fermée.
Ce conflit complique les relations dans le Caucase La Géorgie soutrenant la souveraineté Azéri.
Ceci dit ces 2 pays sont magnifiques et leur population trés accueillante. Il faut simplement évité de parler du pays voisin.
Seul la preuve d'un séjour au Haut-Karabakh peut entraîner un refus d'entrée sur le territoire azéri.
Le "simple visa" arménien n'entraîne pas ce refus...
Le passage obligé entre les deux pays étant bien entendu la Géorgie.
Sauf si vous êtes un oiseau et que vous volez...
Michel
occidentale, peine à sortir de l'anonymat. Pourtant, ce pays ne manque pas d'arguments et les paysages du Petit Caucase, les côtes de la mer Caspienne et les chef-d’oeuvre architecturaux disséminés aux quatre coins du pays n'en sont que les principaux exemples. Nul doute que cet acteur discret de la scène internationale décrochera un jour un premier rôle.
> A voir Bakou, Koboustan, Giandja, réserve de Kizilagadj, presqu'île d'Apchéron, massif du Petit Caucase, lac Goy-gol. > A faire Trekking, pêche, assister à des spectacles de musique traditionnelle. > Période idéale D’avril à juin et de septembre à octobre. > Evénements Novrouz Bayram (mars, nouvel an zoroastre), fête nationale (28 mai), fête de l'Indépendance (18 octobre), Jour de Renouveau National (17 novembre). > Que ramener Tapis, céramiques, soie, dinanderie… Bon trip à vélo!!!🙂😄😏😉😎
Hello Fellow Travelers,
I’ve just returned from a week-long trip to Azerbaijan, covering both Baku and the country’s main sights.
Contrary to what the "Travel Advisory" from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs says, you can travel everywhere safely—the Azerbaijanis are lovely to foreigners, and the police are absolutely helpful.
Just follow the local laws, as you would anywhere, to avoid any trouble.
I highly recommend visiting this stunning country.
Antoine
Hi,
We’re supposed to go to Oman from October 17th to 30th for a 4x4 road trip. We’d already bought our flight tickets before the war started... We’re looking for recent traveler feedback from anyone who’s been there lately. Obviously, we plan to avoid areas around American military bases as well as the Salalah, Duqm, Musandam regions, and the border with Yemen.
Thanks in advance for your input.
lili
Hello, we’re two senior couples who often travel with a guide and driver. For this trip to Oman, though, we’d like (for various reasons) to have a fixed base and visit the must-sees with a local guide but on a hub-and-spoke basis. Do you think that’s possible, and what would be the best place to stay?
We’ll be in Oman for 7 days in March 2026.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Hi there,
This year we want to go to Georgia. We have a ticket to Istanbul and would prefer to avoid an Istanbul/Tbilisi flight to see a bit of Turkey, which I love.
I found a train from Ankara to Kars (25h): why not?
But how do we cross the border: which town? Is it easy (or not)?
I’m leaning toward Batumi, but I’m not sure about anything—thanks for your tips!
Thanks for your insights
I’m planning a two-week trip to Iran in September and I’m reaching out for some valuable tips....
After doing a bit of research, I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary.
I plan to spend 2–3 days in Tehran, then head down to Isfahan for 4–5 days with an overnight stop in Kashan. After that, I’m thinking of going to Shiraz for 2–3 days, including a visit to Persepolis.
Then back to Tehran with a 2-day stop in Yazd.
What do you think? Is this doable? Are there any other must-see spots?
The north, with Tabriz and Masuleh, also caught my eye, but what should I cut to fit them in?
If you have any recommendations for high-quality, authentic hotels, I’d love to hear them.
And one last (silly) question—I’m a smoker (unfortunately!), so is it allowed for women to smoke in Iran? If so, under what conditions?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I’m all ears for any advice!
hi,
do we absolutely have to get the ETA before traveling to Israel these days?
some people say it’s not mandatory, others say it is.
any feedback, please?
thanks
Hey everyone!
A comeback after so many years... but my question is simple:
"Has anyone wandered around these two countries recently? (The posts and travel journals I’ve read are a bit dated.) I’m planning a trip for late spring—one I had mapped out for 2023 but never got to do.
For any info on transportation, border crossings, cost of living, and interesting hostel/GH addresses, thanks in advance! 😉
Hi,
We’ve got flight tickets for a two-week trip to Georgia from April 8th to 23rd.
Should we go ahead with our trip or postpone it to September, given what’s been happening in the Persian Gulf since late February 2026?
Are there any impacts in Georgia?
Thanks for your help
Hi there, I’d like to spend a few days in these two countries. How many days do you recommend? Any ideas for things to see? Which airline should I take to go from one to the other? I think there are no more direct flights? Thanks
Hi,
We’re heading to Asia this summer, and to avoid arriving in the middle of the night, we’ve decided to stop over in Dubai for a day and a half on the way there and back. Any ideas for activities during this super-hot period? Bonus points if they’re reasonably priced 🙂 Which neighborhood is best to stay in?
Thanks in advance, and have a great day!
Bruno
We visited the northern/northeast part of Oman, the most touristy area, last February over 11 days there. It’s a great time to go because the temperatures are pleasant and there aren’t too many tourists, even though the country is only just starting to develop its image. 11 days was enough for us to see the essentials, but you can always extend your stay depending on what you want.
2 days in Muscat, 2 days in the desert—we would’ve happily stayed longer—2 days in the mountains, 3 days in the wadis, and the rest for the cities, villages, and the coast.
Oman offers stunning landscapes and a genuinely warm welcome. We always felt safe, never experienced any malicious looks or gestures.
As usual for our trips, we chose to organize everything ourselves but with a guide to better explore and soak up the local culture.
The point of my post isn’t to recount our journey but to encourage and reassure anyone considering this destination.
If I can be of help, I’m happy to answer your questions based on what I know.
Living in Amman, Jordan, I’d like to visit Jerusalem and the surrounding areas during the Christmas season.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- the security conditions in Israel/Palestine,
- sightseeing in Jerusalem during the Christmas period.
Hi! If anyone has been to Georgia recently and could tell me if it's feasible to travel around the country using public transport. My itinerary would be Kutaisi (my arrival airport), Tbilisi, Mestia, Ushguli, Batumi, and back to Kutaisi (departure airport) in ten days. My flight arrives late at night, around 1 AM—would it be possible to take a taxi to get to the city center?
Any advice is welcome, and regarding the language, can you get by with English? Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone, I’m married to a Kurd from Iraq, and we’re heading to Kurdistan in November with our two-and-a-half-year-old son. Even though I’m really excited about this trip and happy to go, I’m a bit nervous because as a European woman, I feel like there’s nothing to do and I have this image of a dangerous country… To put my mind at ease, I’d love to chat with other Europeans who’ve been there. Thanks! !
Hi there
Does anyone know if it's allowed to use a drone (under 250 g) in Oman?
If so, is there any registration required for the device?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Laurent
Hi there,
We’re traveling from 12/23/2025 to 1/9/2025 in Oman.
However, our flight lands in Dubai.
So I’m looking for a car rental company that allows crossing the border into the Sultanate of Oman.
Thanks for your recommendations!
I think I saw there’s also the option of vehicles with rooftop tents…
Hello... nothing new for several
years now...
Can you go there independently from the rest of the country? Any recent experiences, either in Kurdistan or the rest of Iraq?
Thanks a lot
Hi, we’re traveling to Georgia soon and want to go to Azerbaijan. I’m having trouble finding info on crossing the border.
Is it possible to do it by car or train? Are the land borders between the two countries open? Or do we have to fly?
Thanks in advance
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon.
Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations).
I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Hello everyone,
We’re just back from a wonderful adventure exploring Wadi Rum.
We spent 3 days and 2 unforgettable nights there. Our guide, Mohamad, introduced us to the desert—its beauty, its mysteries—with rare skill, kindness, and generosity. We hiked through breathtakingly beautiful places, slept in a Bedouin tent and under the stars, enjoyed delicious meals, and shared moments of incredible quality.
Mohamad honored us by sharing songs, poems, and stories, and introducing us to his family. His humor, life philosophy, and empathy will stay with us forever.
Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had.
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip.
Michèle
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
Hi everyone!
I’m giving this a shot, hoping to get some answers that can help clear things up.
We’re planning a trip to Oman in February and want to rent a car.
The catch is we probably won’t have received our international driving permits in time.
After some research, we still can’t figure out if there are any rental companies that only require a French license...
or possibly a certified translation of it.
Given that the French license is recognized in Oman, we’re hoping for some advice.
Any tips would be hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance to those who can help!
Best regards,
Olyana
Hi there, 😄
my friend and I are leaving in 15 days for Kurdistan, by road, in our little converted van... The only thing we're sure of (well, the only thing we've actually thought about! The adventures will take care of the rest!) is that we're planning to take a month to get there, 15 days on site to visit my sister-in-law who's been living there as a teacher for a year! and 15 days to rush back, because my boyfriend has to go back to work on November 3rd!! After that, the itinerary isn't set yet—I've just bought a map of Europe... and still haven't found one of Kurdistan! or Iraq! I just finished work yesterday... and until now, this trip felt so far away... I didn't imagine much about it... I kept telling myself, "You'll see when you're done working, your brain will be more available!" Well, now my brain is in "gooo go go!" mode 😮 and it's going fast! I've got tons of questions popping up all at once!
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide!
- Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss?
- The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa?
- The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming!
- Why not Couchsurfing?
- Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla...
- Will the van hold up? 😐
- Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!