A 2 mois du départ, j'ai encore pas mal de questions que je vous soumets ci-dessous :
1) Entre Mariental (Bagatelle Kalahari game ranch) et Sesriem (Hoodia desert lodge), Google propose 2 itinéraires :
a) par la C19, 300km, 4h32
b) par la D1254 + D860 + C14 + D854, 302km, 4h52
Quel est selon vous l'itinéraire présentant le plus d'intérêt (paysages, état de la route ou piste, endroits où s'arrêter pour visiter ou pique-niquer) ?
2) On avait prévu faire la balade en montgolfière au matin en partant de Sesriem mais, plus de place !
En dehors de l'arrêt traditionnel à Solitaire "Apefstrudelland" Y a t-il quelque chose à faire ou à visiter entre Sesriem et Rostock Ritz, sachant que l'on peut se lever tôt, qu'il y a 2h de route et l'on doit être impérativement au lodge avant 15h (game drive réservé) ?
3) Après Rostock Ritz, pour rejoindre Swakopmund, je ne sais pas encore si l'on fera :
a) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund en passant par la D1998 + 1985 pour rejoindre la C28 en visitant Bloetkoppje :
- C'est surtout pour éviter la C14 et visiter Bloetkoppje .
- Est-ce que l'on est couvert par l'assurance du loueur sur cette piste ?
- Cela fait arriver plus tard à Swakop. Est-ce que la ville est sympa a visiter en soirée ?
b) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund par la route classique (C14 M36) via Walvis Bay.
- C'est surtout pour voir les flamands roses à Walvis. le lendemain lors de la balade en mer Mola Mola, je ne sais pas on a l'occasion d'en voir ? Quelqu'un peut m'éclairer ?
c) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund direct via Walvis bay MAIS avec un détour par la D1998 et D1982.
- Est-ce que ces deux routes méritent un détour (environ 30' de plus) ?
4) Arbres à Carquois :
- Est-ce que l'on peut en voir sur la route entre Mariental et Sesriem ou entre Sesriem et Walvis bay ?
- Est-ce qu'il y a des endroits pour s'arrêter ?
5) Pourboires : J'ai lu dans les post que l'on donnait 1/2 NAD pour garder une auto, servir de l'essence ...
- Mais quid des pourboires des serveurs ?
- Quid des pourboires aux chauffeurs des game drive ?
- Des guides dans les lodges ?
- Pour les porteurs de valises ?
6) Est-ce que cela se fait de donner des cadeaux aux enfants, aux familles ?
- et si oui quoi ?
- Vêtements (plutôt Tee shirt ou polaires ?), accessoires, jouets ?
- Aux Himbas ? aux San ? aux autres personnes croisées sur les chemins ?
7) Un truc tout bête que je n'ai pas vérifié, j'aurais peut-être du :
- Est-ce que certains Hillux ont des toits ouvrants (sans les tentes au dessus bien sur ! 🤪 ) ?
Merci d'avance pour vos conseils avisés
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Est-ce que l'on est couvert par l'assurance du loueur sur cette piste ?
C'est une piste non numérotée (il me semble) donc non, a priori l'assurance ne couvre pas.😕
Est-ce que l'on peut en voir sur la route entre Mariental et Sesriem ou entre Sesriem et Walvis bay ?
Tout à côté de Bloedkoppe justement ! 😉
Pourboires : J'ai lu dans les post que l'on donnait 1/2 NAD pour garder une auto, servir de l'essence ...
- Mais quid des pourboires des serveurs ?
- Quid des pourboires aux chauffeurs des game drive ?
- Des guides dans les lodges ?
- Pour les porteurs de valises ?
Tous les lodges ont une boîte commune. En ce qui nous concerne, c'est pour ce principe que nous optons. Ton TO saura te dire cela et te l'indiquera dans ses recommandations.
Est-ce que certains Hillux ont des toits ouvrants (sans les tentes au dessus bien sur ! 🤪 ) ?
1) Entre Mariental (Bagatelle Kalahari game ranch) et Sesriem (Hoodia desert lodge), Google propose 2 itinéraires :
a) par la C19, 300km, 4h32
b) par la D1254 + D860 + C14 + D854, 302km, 4h52
Quel est selon vous l'itinéraire présentant le plus d'intérêt (paysages, état de la route ou piste, endroits où s'arrêter pour visiter ou pique-niquer) ?
Quelque soit la route, le paysage deviendra spectaculaire quand vous commencerez à descendre du plateau : en haut de la Zarishoogtepass pour l'option a, vers Bogenfels pour l'option b
Il n'y a rien de particulier à "visiter", mais des tas d'arrêts-photos en perspective.
Nous avions fait notre premier pique-nique namibien en 2008 à proximité de Zaris Farm : un coin magnifique.
2) En dehors de l'arrêt traditionnel à Solitaire "Apefstrudelland" Y a t-il quelque chose à faire ou à visiter entre Sesriem et Rostock Ritz, sachant que l'on peut se lever tôt, qu'il y a 2h de route et l'on doit être impérativement au lodge avant 15h (game drive réservé) ?
Si vous vous levez très tôt, vous avez sans doute le temps d'aller crapahuter un peu dans le Naukluft...
(du coup ça vous ferait passer dans l'autre sens par l'option b de la question précédente, alors peut-être choisir la a ?)
a) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund en passant par la D1998 + 1985 pour rejoindre la C28 en visitant Bloetkoppje :
- C'est surtout pour éviter la C14 et visiter Bloetkoppje .
- Est-ce que l'on est couvert par l'assurance du loueur sur cette piste ?
- Cela fait arriver plus tard à Swakop. Est-ce que la ville est sympa a visiter en soirée ?
b) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund par la route classique (C14 M36) via Walvis Bay.
- C'est surtout pour voir les flamands roses à Walvis. le lendemain lors de la balade en mer Mola Mola, je ne sais pas on a l'occasion d'en voir ? Quelqu'un peut m'éclairer ?
c) Rostock Ritz Desert Lodge > Swakopmund direct via Walvis bay MAIS avec un détour par la D1998 et D1982.
- Est-ce que ces deux routes méritent un détour (environ 30' de plus) ?
Il y a encore d'autres options ! Vous avez le temps de faire pas mal de choses en partant tôt :
- D2186 et D1983 (roulantes et numérotés) pour longer les dunes et les avoir pour vous tout seuls.
- Passer par Welwitschias Drive et Moon Landscape.
Tout ça est mieux que de traverser le Namib par la C14, assez sinistre entre Walvis Bay et la Kuiseb.
Dans tous les cas, prendre le permis à Sesriem pour sortir des deux grands axes C14 et C24.
Swakop n'est pas désagréable du tout au coucher du soleil. Ensuite il ne s'y passe plus grand chose et à 21h tout le monde est couché.
4) Arbres à Carquois :
- Est-ce que l'on peut en voir sur la route entre Mariental et Sesriem ou entre Sesriem et Walvis bay ?
- Est-ce qu'il y a des endroits pour s'arrêter ?
Il y en a par-ci par-là. Si vous choisissez l'option Naukluft entre Sesriem et Rostock Ritz, là vous en verrez !
5) et 6)
À chacun de faire comme il le sent.
7)
Je confirme : le toit ouvrant sur un Hilux : ça n'existe pas ! Les "bakkies" sont d'abord des utilitaires.
Quand Cendryon évoque un "Hillux avec toit ouvrant", elle pense à un véhicule à toit ouvrant permettant de se mettre debout ponctuellement pendant un safari et de pouvoir mieux photographier les animaux. Ce n'est pas le cas des véhicules de location en Namibie. 😇
- Est-ce que l'on est couvert par l'assurance du loueur sur cette piste ?
Salut,
Cela dépend en fait du loueur ! Pour ma part je suis couvert avec l'assurance de mon loueur de voitures pour ce coin là (Blutkoppe et Wustenquell)., je lui ai demandé et il m'a confirmé par écrit !🙂
Quand Cendryon évoque un "Hillux avec toit ouvrant", elle pense à un véhicule à toit ouvrant permettant de se mettre debout ponctuellement pendant un safari et de pouvoir mieux photographier les animaux. Ce n'est pas le cas des véhicules de location en Namibie. 😇
Voilà, c'est exactement ça mais Krikri, elle le dit mieux que moi 😉 😎
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Si vous vous levez très tôt, vous avez sans doute le temps d'aller crapahuter un peu dans le Naukluft...
(du coup ça vous ferait passer dans l'autre sens par l'option b de la question précédente, alors peut-être choisir la a ?)
Ok j'ai compris le truc. Ca à l'air bien montagneux par là. Comment sont les pistes ? Est ce qu'il faut aussi un permis pour le Naukluft Moutain Zebra Park ?
Il y a encore d'autres options ! Vous avez le temps de faire pas mal de choses en partant tôt :
- D2186 et D1983 (roulantes et numérotés) pour longer les dunes et les avoir pour vous tout seuls.
Wahou j'imagine qu'on doit vraiment être tout seul sur cette route, faut pas tomber en panne 🤪. Comment est la piste ?
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Donc si j'ai bien compris, tu me réponds pour la route qui longe les dunes ? > Permis à prendre à Sesriem . Est-ce qu'il en ont aussi au Rostock Ritz ?
Et pour la partie nord-est, c'est à dire le Nauflukt Zebra moutains park , faut-il un permis ?
Parceque si l'on y va en venant de Mariental, je ne sais pas ou prendre le permis ?
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Oui, il faut un permis aussi pour le Naukluft Zebra Park.
Les permis s'obtiennent tous à Sesriem. C'est le même pour Namib et Naukluft (soit dès que tu sors des routes "C" dans cette région.
Au Rostock Ritz --> pas de permis (c'est privé, pas un parc national).
Donc si j'ai bien compris, tu me réponds pour la route qui longe les dunes ? > Permis à prendre à Sesriem . Est-ce qu'il en ont aussi au Rostock Ritz ?
Non, les permis ne se prennent que dans les bureaux du NWR (Windhoek, Sesriem, Swakopmund, (Walvis Bay ?)
Et pour la partie nord-est, c'est à dire le Nauflukt Zebra moutains park , faut-il un permis ?
Le parc, c'est le Nauklut NP, le droit d'entrée se paie à l'arrivée dans le parc. Je suppose que c'est pour faire Olive Trail ou une partie du Waterkloof Trail ?
Parceque si l'on y va en venant de Mariental, je ne sais pas ou prendre le permis ?
J'avais cru comprendre que tu voulais faire cela sur ton trajet Sesriem/Rostock Ritz, non ?
Ce serait bien de nous remettre à jour l'enchaînement de ces quelques jours. 😎
J'ai lu dans les post que l'on donnait 1/2 NAD pour garder une auto, servir de l'essence et porter les valises
A priori plutôt entre 3 et 5.
Mais quid des pourboires des serveurs ?
- Quid des pourboires aux chauffeurs des game drive ?
- Des guides dans les lodges ?
Dans un resto, a priori le service n'est pas compris donc entre 0 et 10 ou 15 %
Dans un lodge, une enveloppe pour le team (accueil, services) voir un quelque chose pour une personne plus particulièrement identifiée...mais discrètement parce que les autres vont lui tomber dessus.
Pour un guide ou un ranger de game drive...45 Nd par jour et par personne serait une norme.
Rappelons que le salaire moyen doit tourner à pas grand chose et que 1 ND c'est moins de 10 centimes d'euros.
Ceci dit chacun fait comme il veut.
Je me souviens de la propriétaire française d'une guest house de Windhoek , guest house devenue visiblement célèbre pour les TO et autres...
Qui pestaient contre "ces touristes" qui encourageaient la "fainéantise des noirs" en leur donnant trop...
Tout en faisant construire la piscine de la guest house avec des ouvriers en tongs...alors qu'ils manipulaient des barres métalliques...
et soudaient sans protection...
J1 - Arrivée direction Naasuke lodge
J2 - Activité matin et prise de véhicule à Windhoek AM
J3 -Windoek > Mariental
J4- Mariental > Hoodia desert lodge. Je m'était demandé si l'on aurait le temps de faire un stop/balade dans Le Nauflukt zebra moutain si l'on prenait par le nord (routes D860 + C14) mais la route est longue (+- 5h). Donc, si l'on vient dans ce coin ce sera plutôt le jour 6 car on aura moins de route et au final, depuis Mariental le J4, on passera plutôt par le sud (cf post de Pierre).
J5 -Hoodia desert lodge excursion à Sossusvlai avec eu, compris dans le package.
J6 - Hoodia > Rostock Ritz . Le matin on devait faire la montgolfière. Mais comme il n'y a plus de place, on fera peut-être le détour par Nauflukt Zebra moutains (D854 - 2h43 au lieu de 2h05) . Merci pour le renseignement sur le paiement à l'entrée du parc.
Seulement je viens de relire ton carnet (oui, encore, c'est vraiment une mine d'or tes carnets !!) et j'ai fouiné un peu sur le net. J'ai trouvé un site, des cartes pour Olive trail et Waterkloof Trail mais c'est vraiment trop long pour le temps dont on disposera.
Quiver Tree Trail semble idéal mais je suppose que c'est sur les terres du Zebra river lodge et comme on y séjourne pas ...🤪
Est-ce qu'il y a des balades de 2/3h dans le parc ou aux alentours ? Quid du Kokerboomkloof ? Je suppose que tu as du étudier tout cela avant de partir ?
Tu sais nous il nous faut des balades pas trop longues et surtout bien indiquées... Vois-tu, en Islande, j'ai quand même trouvé le moyen de me tromper plusieurs fois !! 🤪 D'aucun diront que j'ai la "Belge attitude 😐. Pour the wave j'avais bien fait de prendre un guide sinon on y serait surement encore 😎
Merci Krikri pour tes carnets et tous tes conseils...
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
J'ai l'impression qu'il s'agit d'un trail qui se trouve sur la propriété de Büllsport Guestfarm... donc même punition, c'est sans doute réservé aux hôtes de la Guestfarm 😉. A vérifier !
Comme je suis en train de débroussailler ces questions...
A Büllsport, les visiteurs à la journée peuvent randonner en payant... C'est le cas dans bien des domaines privés...
http://www.buellsport.com/...g-on-buellsport.html
For all guest staying at Buellsport there is a large number of well marked and maintained trails to use free off charge. Day visitor are welcome at a day fee.
J'ai trouvé un site, des cartes pour Olive trail et Waterkloof Trail mais c'est vraiment trop long pour le temps dont on disposera.
Est-ce qu'il y a des balades de 2/3h dans le parc ou aux alentours ?
Dans ces conditions, pourquoi n'irais-tu pas directement au Rostock Ritz ?
Avec une arrivée en milieu de matinée et jusqu'à 15 h (départ du game drive), tu as suffisamment de temps pour faire un des trails sur leur propriété. Nous avions fait Rambler's Trail, très chouette (3 heures, bien indiqué, pas de difficulté). Ils mettent à disposition sur place une petite doc (plusieurs trails entre 1 et 7 heures) et quelques-uns des trails sont succinctement décrits sur leur site.
Ben parceque ... j'aurais bien aimé passer dans le Nauflukt moutain zebra, ça doit être chouette ! 🙂
Ben alors j'ai une dernière proposition 😇 : faire le tour partiel du Waterkloof Trail... jusqu'à Last Water en aller/retour, ça prend environ 3 heures.
Il y a même un arbre à carquois (quiver tree ou kokerboom) sur ce bout de parcours (bien que je ne me rappelle pas l'avoir vu, me souviens en avoir vu un autre à l'autre extrémité de la boucle), un tunnel de roseaux (weir), des babouins qui détalent à ton approche et des bassins pour se baigner. Voir la description de ce début de ce sentier sur la page de mon site.
Il faudrait que tu puisses être sur place au plus tard à 9 heures. Retour rando à midi environ, un peu plus de 2 heures de route jusqu'à Rostock, ça devrait pouvoir le faire.
Je suis en interrogation sur l'Olive, après avoir lu ce commentaire:
"Si la montée fut ardue, la descente également ! Les grands rochers n’avaient que peu de prises souvent et sans l’aide des garçons, nous, filles de petite taille aurions eu du mal à continuer toutes seules ! Sans parler que vers la fin de la balade, une descente à pic donnant sur de l’eau marécageuse justifiait l’utilisation de chaînes encastrées dans les parois verticales afin de poursuivre (et d’éviter de se retrouver coincés dans ce lit de pierres froides après le coucher du soleil)."
L'Olive Trail est réputé pour avoir un passage un peu "aérien" équipé de chaînes, au-dessus d'une pool. 🏴☠️
Le Waterkloof Trail n'a pas de difficulté de ce type mais est très long et exigeant ! Mais on peut en faire une version courte jusqu'à Last Water A/R comme je l'ai indiqué un peu plus haut. 🙂
C'est surtout pour voir les flamands roses à Walvis.
Juste un petit complément pour te signaler que tu peux aussi voir des flamands roses à Swakopmund en te baladant à pied sur la plage juste à côté du Stiltz et en te dirigeant vers l'embouchure de la rivière Swakop (flamands + oiseaux +++)
Merci Krikri. EN plus le Stiltz c'est là qu'on dort 2 nuits ! 🙂
Cela dit, on devra partir super tôt les 2 matins car le premier on a la croisière pélicans/otaries + sandwich harbor à Walvis bay et le second on a le tour "living desert".
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
C'est pour cela que je te donnais cette précision (ce sera top ! 🙂)
Cela dit, on devra partir super tôt les 2 matins car le premier on a la croisière pélicans/otaries + sandwich harbor à Walvis bay et le second on a le tour "living desert".
Oh la la, quel programme de "ouf" ! 😉
J'espère que vous trouverez quand même un peu de temps pour explorer la plage devant le Stiltz, le soir de votre arrivée, peut-être ? 😮
Pour faire le trajet Spitzkoppe > Vingerklip lodge Google propose 2 itinéraires :
1) Le premier (229km 3h55) file vers le nord et emprunte des petites routes qui me paraissent bien désertiques : D1930, D1931, D2306, D3712, D3719, D2351. La route a l'air très déserte. 2 villages sur la route : Okombahe et Omatjete.
2) Le second parcours (259km, 4h12) passe plus à l'ouest en se rapprochant du Brandberg et emprunte D1930 via Uis, C35 via Khorixas et D2743. Il est vrai que ce parcours permet de faire l'arrêt pour visiter la white lady du Brandberg. A priori je ne l'avais pas inscrit dans mes priorités de visite, n'étant pas particulièrement fan de l'art rupestre mais le paysage est peut-être joli ?
Quel est selon vous la plus chouette route pour les paysages et surtout la plus roulante ?
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Est-ce qu'il y a une épicerie à Spitzkoppe ou bien faut-il prévoir d'acheter de quoi pique-niquer à Swakop ?
Sur le site du camp, non, il n'y a pas d'épicerie (en dehors, je n'ai pas fait attention) mais il y a un restaurant où tu pourras prendre ton petit déjeuner (peut-être déjà compris ?) et ton dîner (faire la demande en arrivant). Quant à déjeuner, je ne sais pas, mais ce n'est sans doute pas impossible (te renseigner).
Cela dit, pour le dîner, on avait prévu de quoi nous préparer un repas froid (donc pas testé le restaurant).
Quant à tes questions d'itinéraire, pas d'info car pas passée par là.
J'ai toujours tendance à privilégier les routes D par rapport aux C, les C par rapport aux B et la terre par rapport au goudron, mais c'est personnel ! 😏
Il n'y a rien de problématique à attendre sur ce type de routes référencées.
Il faudrait que tu puisses être sur place au plus tard à 9 heures. Retour rando à midi environ, un peu plus de 2 heures de route jusqu'à Rostock, ça devrait pouvoir le faire.
L'idéal serait de pouvoir quitter le lodge vers 7h00. Cela nous ferait 8h15 au départ du trail.
A propos : A quelle heure sert-on le petit déjeuner dans les lodges Namibiens ?
..et à quelle heure sert-on le diner ?
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
Sur le site du camp, non, il n'y a pas d'épicerie (en dehors, je n'ai pas fait attention) mais il y a un restaurant où tu pourras prendre ton petit déjeuner (peut-être déjà compris ?) et ton dîner (faire la demande en arrivant).
Ok c'est bon à savoir. Oui notre petit dejeuner est compris mais pas le diner. C'est peut-être pas terrible ?
En tout cas je note de faire quelques courses à Swakop pour le lendemain midi. Si l'on passe par le site White lady, je ne sais pas si l'on peut manger le midi dans le coin.
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
L'idéal serait de pouvoir quitter le lodge vers 7h00. Cela nous ferait 8h15 au départ du trail.
A propos : A quelle heure sert-on le petit déjeuner dans les lodges Namibiens ?
.et à quelle heure sert-on le diner ?
Il n'y a pas de règle générale, chaque lodge a ses horaires (me rappelle plus dans les détails) mais parfois selon ce que tu as prévu, on peut te servir le petit déjeuner plus tôt ou te donner un pack petit déjeuner.
Est-ce à dire que quand il n'y a pas de numéro c'est plus "incertain" ?
Oui !
Sauf rares exceptions dans les régions les plus reculées, les routes même "d" sont bien tracées et entretenues. Au pire tu y rencontres de la tôle ondulée si la niveleuse n'est pas passée depuis longtemps (mais ça peut arriver sur n'importe quelle route en fait).
Dès qu'il n'y a plus de numéro c'est du "2 spoors" (2 traces), ce qui peut recouvrir tout et n'importe quoi. Caillasses, rochers, sable, fesh fesh, fortes pentes, marécages, boue. Des parties plus roulantes aussi bien sûr. Mais impossible de savoir sans aller y voir (ou alors en se procurant les livres "Kaokoland" et "Damaraland" de Johan Snyman qui a parcouru, répertorié et décrit toutes les pistes de ces régions).
Avez-vous une idée de l'heure à laquelle on peut prendre le petit déjeuner au plus tôt dans les lodges ? (6h ou avant ? 7h ? plus tard ?)
C'est pour pouvoir évaluer notre heure de départ et voir en conséquence ce que l'on peut faire comme activités ou temps de balade ensuite.
Pour info ceci m'intéresse particulièrement pour
HOODIA DESERT LODGE,
ROSTOCK RITZ,
Le restaurant près de la hutte au SPITZKOPPE,
VINGERKLIP lodge,
GROOTBERG lodge,
KHOWARIB lodge
FIUME lodge
DIVAVA OKAVANGO lodge
Camp KWANDO
Merci
" Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité" St Exupéry
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.