Randonnée dans le Lahaul Spiti (nord de l'Inde)
by Nadrosa
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je pars début juillet dans le nord de l'inde et j'ai l'intention d'y faire des treks à commencer par le trek du lac moriri à Manali puis j'envisage de faire d'autres treks de 4 à 9 jours dans les vallées du spiti et du Lahaul. Comme il faut faire un choix dans les randos, j'aimerais avoir des conseils sur les randos les plus jolies et surtout les plus isolées c'est à dire les moins touristiques dans cette région. Aussi j'hésite dans le choix d'un guide de treks. Il y en a pas mal sur le marché mais je ne trouve pas un guide de treks satisfaisant qui couvre la région de l'Himachal Pradesh. Et pour les cartes c'est encore pire. Auriez-vous des suggestions à me faire ? Merci beaucoup. Amicalement. Nad
Le Lonely Planet "Trekking in the Indian Himalaya" est bien, il détaille plusieurs treks, pas seulement au Ladakh. Pour les cartes, les Olizanes Ladakh-Zanskar sont LA référence. Elles ont l'avantage de donner les courbes de niveau et de pouvoir être utilisées avec un GPS malgré qqs erreurs d'altitudes. Pour l'Himachal Pradesh, il y a les Leomann Maps au 1/200.000e. Pas évidentes à lire, et pas de courbes de niveau... On les trouve au Vieux Campeur. J'avais vu sur un site une version téléchargeable des cartes gouvernementales, je n'arive plus à mettre la main dessus, me souviens juste qu'il s'agissait d'un site de qq'un qui avait fait un circuit à vélo dans la région. Tu dois pouvoir trouver ces cartes à Delhi.
Si tu veux un trek tranquille, celui qui relie Tso Moriri à Kaza au Spiti est pas mal, sauvage et très peu emprunté. Ensuite, tu peux redescendre sur la Kullu Valley via le trek Pin-Parbati. Comper 3 semaines au minimum. Ca vaut le coup de rajouter qqs jours dans la région de Kaza. Je te déconseille de trekker seule du côté de Kullu et Manali. C'est kafi de plantations de marijuana, et les gars n'aiment pas trop qu'on vienne y fourrer le nez. Plusieurs disparitions de touristes ces dernières années. Un copain pourtant familier avec la région s'est retrouvé avec une roche de 30 kg sur la tente, heureusement pas du côté où il dormait ! Elle n'est pas arrivée là toute seule...
Si tu veux un trek tranquille, celui qui relie Tso Moriri à Kaza au Spiti est pas mal, sauvage et très peu emprunté. Ensuite, tu peux redescendre sur la Kullu Valley via le trek Pin-Parbati. Comper 3 semaines au minimum. Ca vaut le coup de rajouter qqs jours dans la région de Kaza. Je te déconseille de trekker seule du côté de Kullu et Manali. C'est kafi de plantations de marijuana, et les gars n'aiment pas trop qu'on vienne y fourrer le nez. Plusieurs disparitions de touristes ces dernières années. Un copain pourtant familier avec la région s'est retrouvé avec une roche de 30 kg sur la tente, heureusement pas du côté où il dormait ! Elle n'est pas arrivée là toute seule...
Transhimalaya Trois Roues pour le Toit du Monde (http://transhimalaya.blogspot.com)
"Appuyez-vous sur les principes : ils finiront bien par céder !" (Oscar Wilde)
"Appuyez-vous sur les principes : ils finiront bien par céder !" (Oscar Wilde)
Tu peux regarder le site internet d'Himalayan frontiers, une agence de trekking, basée à Manli, spécialiste sur l'Himachal.
les itinéraires sont en français.
A +
Johan
les itinéraires sont en français.
A +
Johan
Il n´y a aucune carte de trek valable pour l´HP. Les cartes Leomann ... tres mediocres. Le guide de trekking LP est aussi mediocre mais ... rien dáutre.
Bonjour,
Merci pour l'info. Je suis un peu embêtée de devoir marcher sans carte et sans guide. J'ai commandé le LP trekking in india en espérant avoir qq infos mais je compte aussi sur mon exoérience et les conseils des locaux. Avez-vous déjà fait le trek du lac Moriri à Manali. Si oui est-ce prudent de partir seule ou est-ce préférable de louer une mule ? J'ai envie aussi de faire d'autres treks dans le lahaul spiti. Connaissez-vous des belles vallées à faire et surtout pas touristiques. Merci pour toutes les infos. Nadine
Bonjour,
D'abord merci pour l'info. J'ai bien noté tous les conseils mais je suis frustrée de ne pas avoir une bonne carte en main afin de bien localiser les lieux. Je voudrais d'abord randonner du lac tso moriri à Manali par le parang la et je me demande si c'est possible de le faire seule sans carte ni bon guide et sachant que j'aurai pas mal de bouffe et de matos à porter sur mon dos. Aussi je veux faire d'autres randos dans le spiti lahaul et j'ai besoin de bonnes recommendations avant d'entreprendre un autre itinéraire. Question pratique est-il possible d'aller à Leh par bus de nuit depuis Delhi ou faut-il prévoir une escale en route ? Merci beaucoup. Bye, Nadine
Le trek le plus facile au Lahaul est col de Barichala - lac de Chandertal - col de Kunzum La. Suit une vallee, aucun risque de se perdre. Mais si les torrents sont hauts il peut y avoir un ou 2 gues difficiles.
Au Spiti aussi quelque courts treks sont faciles, comme au dessus de Kibber et dans la Pin Valley.
Bonjour,
Je viens glaner quelques petites infos. Avec mon ami nous souhaitons faire un petit trek (6 jours max). On aimerait ne pas prendre la tente ce qui implique qu'il y est un village à chaque arrêt. J'ai vu l'itinéraire dont tu parlais (col de barichala, ...) est-ce qu'il y a des villages? combien de jours ça prend?
Merci pour toutes ces infos précieuses!
Non seulement au lac de Chandertal il y a des camps permanents l'ete. Dans la Pin Valley possible de sejourner a Mud et autres villages, aussi au dessus de Kaza, mais impossible pour tout trek plus ambitieux.
Il faut prendre le bus Manali - Kaza (ou une jeep publique, le bus est souvent bourre) et descendre au sommet du col de Kunzum La. Da la sentier pour le lac. Au retour par contre, prendre la piste dans la vallee jusqu'a la route, a Batal, il y a une auberge la, et y reprendre le bus (ou faire du stop).
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With the agency: An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk. Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening. We’ll have a guide for this hike.
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I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
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hi there
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Thanks, community! 🙂
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Thanks, community! 🙂
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The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!
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Hi,
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Thanks
Cat, Bruno.
Thanks
Cat, Bruno.
Hi everyone!
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
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Elocine
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I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
Hello,
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
Spots where we could pitch the tent near a stream
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Hi there,
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
Hi everyone,
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance