Thessaloniki, Tuesday, November 4
Before the great fire of 1917, Thessaloniki was one of the most multicultural cities in the eastern Mediterranean.
Jews, Orthodox Greeks, Muslims, Catholics, and many other minority communities lived together in harmony. The city functioned like a mosaic: neighborhoods, schools, newspapers, and places of worship coexisted in a unified whole.
On August 18, 1917, a small kitchen fire in an Armenian neighborhood spread rapidly. At the time, the city was very dense, with most houses built of wood, and a strong wind was blowing in from the sea.
The fire raged for 32 hours without being slowed, destroying nearly two-thirds of the city center. Around 70,000 people were left homeless. More than 9,500 buildings disappeared: homes, shops, synagogues, schools, newspapers… The city lost much of its Ottoman and Jewish historic center.
The event marked the end of Thessaloniki as a major multicultural metropolis of the Ottoman Empire. Greek authorities decided on a modern reconstruction, led by a French urban planning committee, which gave the city center its current layout.
This fire radically transformed Thessaloniki’s appearance, demographics, and culture.

Our city tour starts on a shared bus with English speakers… But the two-language setup is very well organized. All French speakers board the front of the bus with a French-speaking guide, while English speakers sit at the back with their assigned guide. That way, no double repetitions—it’s much better for everyone.
Our first stop is at the base of the White Tower on the waterfront. It’s one of the city’s symbols. Built during the Ottoman era around 1430, likely on the remains of an older Byzantine fortification. It was a defensive tower forming part of the city’s walls and later served as a prison.

The origin of the name "White Tower" comes from its history. In the 19th century, when the tower was still an Ottoman prison, it had a reputation for being so dark and terrifying that it was called the "Red Tower" or the "Bloody Tower," due to the tortures and executions carried out there.
Legend has it that a prisoner was granted his freedom in exchange for a symbolic act: repainting the entire tower white to erase its macabre past. After the whitewashing, locals began calling it the "White Tower."
Today, it’s a museum dedicated to Thessaloniki’s history, with a panoramic view of the waterfront from the terrace. But today, it’s closed.
At the far end of this large square, by the sea, stands the Statue of Alexander the Great.

A little further on is the Umbrellas of Thessaloniki, a famous sculpture first exhibited at the Venice Biennale in 1995. It became a symbol of the city when it was installed on the waterfront in 1997. Not everyone has to like it…

The bus drops us off at the Arch of Galerius, built by the Roman emperor of the same name in the 4th century AD to honor his victory over the Persians. The reliefs on its sides depict the military exploits of Roman troops against the Persians.

Just a few steps away, above this triumphal arch, stands the Rotunda, which has successively served as a place of worship for three religions. First dedicated to ceremonies honoring the twelve gods of Olympus, it was later converted into a Christian building. During the long Ottoman period, it became a mosque, whose minaret still stands today. After the city’s liberation, the monument regained its Christian purpose before being turned into a museum.

All along the shopping street we walk down, numerous ruins uncovered by excavations bear witness to the city’s rich historical past.



to be continued…