Roues et jantes vélo Rockrider 320
by Jeanmanuel63
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonsoir je viens d'acheter un vélo rockrider 320 d'une quinzaine d'années. Je souhaite remplacer les roues de 26 pouces. Par contre je ne sais pas quoi acheter d'un bon rapport qualité prix et poids fiabilité. L'idéal serait d'avoir un moyeu dynamo. Je souhaite conserver les 7 pignons à l'arrière mais je ne sais pas si c'est possible et si c'est une cassette ou roue libre j'ai besoin de vos conseils plutôt que de faire une bêtise. Merci à vous.
Salut !
Je n'ai pas de modèles de roues, encore moins avec dynamo à te conseiller.
Pour la roue arrière, compte-bien le nombre de pignons, si le vélo a une quinzaine d'années, il ne devrait pas être en 7 vitesses sauf bas de gamme.
Pour déterminer si c'est une roue libre à visser ou une cassette, regarde si tu trouves (cas de la cassette) pour fixer les pignons un écrou qui se visse ayant environ 12 cannelures à l'intérieur de ce genre-là. Sinon, cherche les lettres HG sur les pignons.
Si le vélo n'a que 15 ans et est équipé d'une roue libre à visser, il a aussi tout le reste à l'avenant, donc roues basiques mais aussi cadre lourd, pédalier en tôle avec peut-être plateaux non remplaçables, voire cintre acier ou autre truc qui ne feront pas de ton vélo un vélo correct sauf à débourser plus en pièces neuves qu'en l'achat d'un vélo plus qualitatif (même plus vieux).
Je n'ai pas de modèles de roues, encore moins avec dynamo à te conseiller.
Pour la roue arrière, compte-bien le nombre de pignons, si le vélo a une quinzaine d'années, il ne devrait pas être en 7 vitesses sauf bas de gamme.
Pour déterminer si c'est une roue libre à visser ou une cassette, regarde si tu trouves (cas de la cassette) pour fixer les pignons un écrou qui se visse ayant environ 12 cannelures à l'intérieur de ce genre-là. Sinon, cherche les lettres HG sur les pignons.
Si le vélo n'a que 15 ans et est équipé d'une roue libre à visser, il a aussi tout le reste à l'avenant, donc roues basiques mais aussi cadre lourd, pédalier en tôle avec peut-être plateaux non remplaçables, voire cintre acier ou autre truc qui ne feront pas de ton vélo un vélo correct sauf à débourser plus en pièces neuves qu'en l'achat d'un vélo plus qualitatif (même plus vieux).
Pas de deuxième vague en Europe : https://tinyurl.com/y5ytqzej
Le RR320 est bien en 7 vitesses d'origine. Mais il serait plus de fin 90 que de 15 ans d'âge.
J'en ai un que je bricole en triporteur ( je m'amuse...) Et un 310.
Les deux identique à la différence de la fourche.
Bonsoir et merci pour ton retour. C'est vrai que c'est pas un vélo haut de gamme mais je voulais vraiment mettre très peu d'argent pour l'usage que je souhaite en faire. Il est en acier et 7 vitesses. Pour son âge il est en très bon état et a peu servi. En l'état il est très bien je peux rouler. Je voulais juste le upgrade un peu mais c'est vraiment superflu et sans doute cherché la petite bete. Je vais juste changer les pneus et mettre des slicks lisses et les patins de freins. Changer la cablerie et faire les réglages. Quand je vois et lis les récits de personnes qui ont voyagé avec des vélos comme ça chargés et sur des routes défoncées je me dis que sur le bitume Clermontois ça devrait aller.
Merci pour cette précision d'âge. Le propriétaire n'avait plus de facture. C'est un velo 7 vitesses pas cher et qui me permttra d'aller au boulot sans trop me poser de question.
Je le pense aussi.
Après, tu peu l'améliorer un peu à moindre frais sans changer tes roues si c'est pour aller au boulot.
Des lumières sur piles feront très bien le job.
Tu peux adapter des V brakes sans soucis pour un meilleur freinage, éventuellement remplacer les poignées tournantes par des shifters, de bonnes poignés et une selle qui te convient, et roule.
Si besoin je porte bagage, tu as des oeillets pour le fixer, et des garde blues en plastique pas lourd pour l'hiver.
Oui je pensais mettre des v brake plutôt que les cantilever d'origine qui freinent moyen. As tu une marque un modèle à me conseiller. Pour les vitesses oui je voulais aussi passer en friction avec shifter. Pareil tu aurais un modèle à me conseiller ?
Je ne suis pas un grand technicien mais on trouve ce genre de pièce sur des sites comme xxcycle ou le cyclo ou probike shop (si je peux en citer) pour pas très cher. Ce sont maintenant des pièces dépassées de nos jours.
Par exemple, une rapide recherche
https://www.probikeshop.fr/vtt/freinage-v-brake-leviers-v-brake-etriers-c11347.html
Pour les shifters, on dit qu'il vaut mieux prendre la même marque que le dérailleur pour respecter les étalements (les experts me reprendront si besoin) entre les vitesses. J'ai déjà monté des shifters "compatibles Shimano", et ça fonctionne bien
Oui je pensais mettre des v brake plutôt que les cantilever d'origine
Ah, oui. Tu aurais dû préciser ce détail important dès le début puisque ça permet de dater ton vélo, il est de 1995 ou plus ancien, rien à voir avec un vélo de 15 ans.
Le passage de 7 à 8 vitesses s'est fait de 1992 à 1994 selon les groupes, ton vélo est sans doute de 1993 ou1994 voire 1995 s'il est équipé d'une transmission bon marché, mais pas après (il aurait des V-brakes d'origine).
Du coup, tu as sans doute une cassette, mais si c'est vraiment du 7 vitesses, le moyeu arrière mesure 130 mm de largeur contre 135 mm pour les roues d'après 1992 à 1995. Ça complique les choses pour trouver une roue neuve, sauf à la faire monter. Ou à forcer sur les bases pour les écarter. Pas top.
Mais est-ce nécessaire ? Une remise en tension des rayons et reprise du voile, un nettoyage graissage réglage des cônes cuvettes (roulements) et c'est reparti pour plusieurs années.
Comme pneus, monte des pneus plus fins et lisses, les Michelin Wild run'r en 1,40 sont très bon marché, un peu raides si gonflés à bloc, les 1,10 souples sont mieux, les deux versions transforment un vtt en fusée. Presque.
Ah, oui. Tu aurais dû préciser ce détail important dès le début puisque ça permet de dater ton vélo, il est de 1995 ou plus ancien, rien à voir avec un vélo de 15 ans.
Le passage de 7 à 8 vitesses s'est fait de 1992 à 1994 selon les groupes, ton vélo est sans doute de 1993 ou1994 voire 1995 s'il est équipé d'une transmission bon marché, mais pas après (il aurait des V-brakes d'origine).
Du coup, tu as sans doute une cassette, mais si c'est vraiment du 7 vitesses, le moyeu arrière mesure 130 mm de largeur contre 135 mm pour les roues d'après 1992 à 1995. Ça complique les choses pour trouver une roue neuve, sauf à la faire monter. Ou à forcer sur les bases pour les écarter. Pas top.
Mais est-ce nécessaire ? Une remise en tension des rayons et reprise du voile, un nettoyage graissage réglage des cônes cuvettes (roulements) et c'est reparti pour plusieurs années.
Comme pneus, monte des pneus plus fins et lisses, les Michelin Wild run'r en 1,40 sont très bon marché, un peu raides si gonflés à bloc, les 1,10 souples sont mieux, les deux versions transforment un vtt en fusée. Presque.
Pas de deuxième vague en Europe : https://tinyurl.com/y5ytqzej
Concernant ces pneus, est-il envisageable de rouler sur chemins gravillonnés du genre que l'on trouve sur les chemins de halage, par exemple?
Oui je pensais mettre des v brake plutôt que les cantilever d'origine qui freinent moyen. As tu une marque un modèle à me conseiller. Pour les vitesses oui je voulais aussi passer en friction avec shifter. Pareil tu aurais un modèle à me conseiller ?
Mon vélo de 1992 est en 7 v. et j'ai monté des v-brakes à la place des canti. 2 points à surveiller pour le passage de v-brakes en canti: 1) changer aussi les leviers de freins. Le tirage n'est pas le même 2) le positionnement des patins n'est pas le même. En gardant du 26 pouces, ça peut être tellement limite que dans lon cas, je dois faire gaffe aux patins que je monte. S'ils sont trop gros, le pneu touche sur patin neuf.
Si le changement de jantes est d'actualité, savoir que le passage en 650b permet (en tous cas sur mon vélo) de régler le problème de positionnement des patins sur la jante. Compte tenu de l'abandon du 26" et de la difficulté grandissante de trouver des bons pneus dans cette taille, c'est une bonne solution tant qu'on peut trouver des 650b pour freinage sur jante. Ca be va pas durer.
Mon vélo de 1992 est en 7 v. et j'ai monté des v-brakes à la place des canti. 2 points à surveiller pour le passage de v-brakes en canti: 1) changer aussi les leviers de freins. Le tirage n'est pas le même 2) le positionnement des patins n'est pas le même. En gardant du 26 pouces, ça peut être tellement limite que dans lon cas, je dois faire gaffe aux patins que je monte. S'ils sont trop gros, le pneu touche sur patin neuf.
Si le changement de jantes est d'actualité, savoir que le passage en 650b permet (en tous cas sur mon vélo) de régler le problème de positionnement des patins sur la jante. Compte tenu de l'abandon du 26" et de la difficulté grandissante de trouver des bons pneus dans cette taille, c'est une bonne solution tant qu'on peut trouver des 650b pour freinage sur jante. Ca be va pas durer.
Sinon, pour en revenir aux roues qui est le sujet de base, sur mon VTT de la même époque, mais de marque TOPBIKE, soit un bon vieux truc de grande surface que j'avais acheté à 18 ans l'équivalent de 1000F, j'ai été amené à changer mes roues il y a 4 ou 5 ans.
J'avais trouvé des Redneck XC1 sur "Ma Zone" à prix correct (80€ le jeux environ, si je me souviens).
J'en suis plutôt content. Mais encore une fois, je les ai changé par nécessité et parce que j'avais le vélo à la maison.
Si les tiennes vont bien, comme le dit 8xc, contrôle, graissage et réglage et roule
Une nouvelle fois merci à toi et à tous pour vos conseils et votre connaissance. C'est épatant. Effectivement il vaut mieux ne rien changer du tout tant que ça roule. Un bon nettoyage graissage reglage coûte moins cher et au moins il ny a pas de désagrément majeur. Je rigole quand tu dis fusée. Jaime cette image et je vais regarder les pneus que tu mentionnes.
Concernant ces pneus, est-il envisageable de rouler sur chemins gravillonnés du genre que l'on trouve sur les chemins de halage, par exemple?
Ça dépend. De temps à autres, oui, j'y passais quand j'en avais mis en 1,40" soit 35 mm, sur mon vtt de 1990. Mai vu que je me suis un peu baladé sur des chemins de vignes durant le confinement avec un vélo de piste sur pneu de 25 mm, je ne suis pas ce qu'on peut appeler un aficionado des pneus larges et je reconnais que d'autres cyclistes ne font pas les mêmes choix.
Si c'est pour faire très souvent du chemin, avec de gros graviers, il faudra prendre un peu plus large ou un peu plus souple. Il existe des chemins de halages en terre, très corrects avec des pneus route ou à peine plus larges, d'autres plus instables.
Bref, ça dépend du chemin mais aussi du cycliste.
Ça dépend. De temps à autres, oui, j'y passais quand j'en avais mis en 1,40" soit 35 mm, sur mon vtt de 1990. Mai vu que je me suis un peu baladé sur des chemins de vignes durant le confinement avec un vélo de piste sur pneu de 25 mm, je ne suis pas ce qu'on peut appeler un aficionado des pneus larges et je reconnais que d'autres cyclistes ne font pas les mêmes choix.
Si c'est pour faire très souvent du chemin, avec de gros graviers, il faudra prendre un peu plus large ou un peu plus souple. Il existe des chemins de halages en terre, très corrects avec des pneus route ou à peine plus larges, d'autres plus instables.
Bref, ça dépend du chemin mais aussi du cycliste.
Pas de deuxième vague en Europe : https://tinyurl.com/y5ytqzej
Merci pour ta réponse,
Avec ce vélo, je fais plutôt un mix route/ chemins de halage/ voies vertes en tous genre.
Pour le VTT, j'ai un autre vélo, mais de façon générale, j'aime bien emprunter ce que je trouve sur place . Cet été, par exemple, je suis même passé à travers bois, avec mes pneus DRY Décat en 1x95, mais un ancien dessin qui s'apparente aux Michelin Rock .
L'idée serait de descendre en largeur pour avoir un meilleur rendement sans m'interdire de petits chemins, mais on sera plus sur du VTC que du VTT.
Bonjour Jean,
Ayant longtemps utilisé sur un RR 520, je peux te conseiller les pneus Hutchinson Acrobat en 26 X1.35. Bien gonflés, ils présentent une faible surface de contact sur le sec avec une très bonne résistance à la perforation. Sur les chemins, l'accroche est suffisante et sur la petite gadoue, les crampons latéraux permettent de s'en sortir. Poids un peu élevé de 580 g. En résumé une belle polyvalence https://www.hutchinsontires.com/fr/city-trekking/pneu/acrobat-velo-standard
Bonjour jean,
Une réflexion concernant les freins, des cantilever ça freine trés bien à condition d'avoir une câblerie de bonne qualité (ex:jagwire) et de bons patins.
J'ai eu ça sur ma randonneuse pendant 10 ans sans probleme, c'est vrai que les Vbrake sont plus puissants mais il me semble que ça fait beaucoup de frais pour un tel vélo
Bonsoir. Oui tu as raison. Avant de vouloir tout changer il vaut mieux faire de l'entretien de base et remplacer les consommables. Surtout que je ne souhaite pas nécessairement ylaisser un budget important. Merci encore à tous pour vos conseils et témoignages et retours d'expérience.
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https://curieuxcyclos.eklablog.fr/
https://curieuxcyclos.eklablog.fr/
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Before I embarked on my own bike trips, I dreamed a lot about them—from the Atacama to the Gobi, along the Mekong, and not forgetting France. And now, these 130 pages every quarter keep those dreamy vibes alive through stories written in the most beautiful prose.
I’ll stop here because it might sound like I’m advertising, but if you don’t know *200*, I invite you to discover it. It’ll give you wings for the most incredible challenges or simply reinforce your desire for slow rides with your eyes open to others and nature.
A little news to wrap up: Axel Carion and a friend just broke the record for crossing South America from Colombia to Ushuaia in 59 days. On its own, that doesn’t mean much, but I can’t help it—it makes me dream. You should see how he talks about it, the flashes of that wild nature he’s stored away: a snowstorm at Paso Jama and the surreal sight of the suddenly snow-covered Licancabur!
Luc PS: The magazine is called *200* because a day’s ride starts at 200 km—well, I’ve never done a ride like that since my longest was 167 km (with 18 kg of luggage, mind you), but why not one day? The magazine will explain how to tackle your first 200, and then the question in conclusion: when will you do your first 300?😏
Hi there,
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Nath
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Nath
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Heinz Stucke has passed away.
He never stopped traveling the world since 1962.
So sad.
https://www.facebook.com/heinzstucke
https://www.facebook.com/heinzstucke
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

Hello,
We’d like to go on a 3- to 4-month bike trip starting in December, crossing from Assam (northeast India) to New Delhi via Nepal.
Are there routes with light traffic along the Brahmaputra and through Nepal?
We’re also looking for any info on accommodations, wild camping, local interactions, etc.
Thanks,
Michel
Hi there,
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August! Virginie
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August! Virginie
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
Coming soon:
https://www.Biclou.com/parcours/durance/
Starting from Faverges: 900 km over 9 days

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Hi there,
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
Hi there!
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
