Bonjour,
tombés sous le charme de sa capitale Tallinn en février 2011, nous avons décidé d'y retourner en 2012 mais en quittant un peu Tallinn.
Nous hésitons entre une escapade à Haapsalu (et ses environs) ou le parc Lahemaa (Käsmu, Vosu, Altja).
Nous souhaitons profiter des activités de plein air: balades en raquettes, pêche sur lac ou mer gelée, balade en traineau à chiens, ...
En faisant quelques recherches nous nous sommes aperçus que les hébergements (hostels, guesthouses) à Haapsalu étaient plus nombreux et plus abordables qu'à Lahemaa (autour de 25/30€ la chambre double) .
Avez-vous des adresses dans cet ordre de prix dans les villages côtiers du parc Lahemaa?
Avez-vous de bonnes adresses de restaurants, d'hébergement, des lieux à visiter (qui ne sont pas dans les guides), des bons plans, ...
Nous hésitons entre une escapade à Haapsalu (et ses environs) ou le parc Lahemaa (Käsmu, Vosu, Altja).
Les prix sont effectivement plus doux à Haapsalu en cette saison car justement, ce n'est pas la saison touristique en hiver. Pas que le Lahemaa soit pris d'assaut par les touristes en cette saison mais Haapsalu n'est doté d'aucune infrastructure pour les activités hivernales types chiens de traineaux, raquettes à neige, ski de fond etc
Perso, à cette saison, je m'orienterai plutôt vers le Lahemaa ou je descendrai radicalement dans le Sud de l'Estonie où paradoxalement l'hiver est souvent plus rude et plus enneigé (loin de l'influence modératrice de la Baltique) : Värska ou Otepää.
J'imagine que vous louerai une voiture ? Dans ce cas un logement à Võsu au bord de la mer, à l'entrée du Lahemaa et entre Käsmu et Altja ne devrait pas poser de problème.
La guest house Rannaliiv propose des prix dans votre fourchette : 37€ la chambre double petit déjeuner inclus
http://www.rannaliiv.ee/?id=6&keel=ee
C'est pas le grand luxe mais c'est correct, idem pour le petit déjeuner.
A la porte du Lahemaa, le manoir de Sagadi dispose d'un hotel mais aussi d'une guest house au tarif beaucoup plus modeste : 15€ le lit, 21€ avec le petit déjeuner (prix par personne)
Pour 32€ vous avez une chambre double avec WC et douche dans la chambre.
Pour 26€ vous avez les WC dans la chambre et la douche sur le palier
Les prix avec l'astèrix indiquent une chambre avec WC et douche sur le palier.
Le petit déjeuner n'est pas compris dans le prix. Pas trop un problème car n'importe quel bar vous fera un petit dej pour 2 ou 3 € max.
si vous voulez faire des raquettes, emmenez les depuis la France car ce n'est pas une activité d'hiver pour les Estoniens. Ils se servent des raquettes uniquement pour crapahuter dans les marais afin de ne pas se faire aspirer. Il est donc très difficle d'en louer ailleurs que sur les sites marécageux, et encore.
N'hésitez pas à poser d'autres questions si vous en avez 🙂
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces infos!!
On a consulté les sites, en effet ça donne des possibilités abordables sur le parc de Lahemaa. L'idée de voir des villages de pêcheurs, la côte prise par les glaces, la forêt, ..., nous tente beaucoup. Tout ça pas loin de Tallinn.
Nous n'avions pas prévu de louer une voiture, plutôt d'utiliser les bus.
Nous avons aussi regardé les possibilités vers le sud (Otepää, Värska), il semble qu'il y ait des villages sympa au sud de Voru.
Rouge par exemple qui est un des plus beaux village d'Estonie d'après le LP (y ètes-vous allé?), avec le parc Haanja pour se balader en forêt et des hébergements sympa et pas chers ("Rohtlätte Holiday Home" par exemple).
Connaissez-vous ce coin?
Notre choix se fera aussi suivant l'enneigement et le froid, nous venons en Estonie pour en partie vivre le dépaysement dû à la neige, au froid, à la glace!!!
Merci,
J'ai oublié de vous demander: où logez-vous à Tallinn??
Nous avons logé au 16€ hostel, pas mal sauf le WE où c'est très bruyant à cause de la discothèque en face (et des jeunes enivrés). Donc pour les jours de semaine ça va mais le WE nous ne voulons pas retenter l'expérience.
Si vous avez une bonne adresse calme, dans les mêmes prix...
Merci d'avance,
Rouge par exemple qui est un des plus beaux village d'Estonie d'après le LP (y ètes-vous allé?),
Oui, mais en été. Par contre je ne partage pas l'enthousiasme du LP 😕. C'est joli mais bon, pas plus qu'ailleurs... Une semaine là-bas, cela risque d'être un peu monotone. Je n'ai pas le souvenir qu'il y ait beaucoup d'infrastructure pour le tourisme ou des activités hivernales.
Nous n'avions pas prévu de louer une voiture, plutôt d'utiliser les bus
De plus, si vous êtes sans voiture, aller à Rõuge risque d'être coton 😛 et en repartir ou rayonner depuis là itou.
J'ai oublié de vous demander: où logez-vous à Tallinn??
C'est variable. Chez des amis ou à l'hôtel Park Inn, ou hôtel ülesmiste si départ de l'aéroport matinal. Sinon je loue un appartement dans la vielle ville quand je souhaite une certaine autonomie (Old House, ils font également guest-house)
Ok, merci pour cet avis, en effet j'ai vu que le trajet est assez long pour y aller, surtout en bus. On va oublier cette option.
Je serais plus tenté maintenant par le parc Lahemaa, les villages côtiers de préférence.
Pour se loger il y a donc le Rannaliiv à Vösu (44€ la double avec petit dej), le Merekalda guesthouse à Käsmu (39€ la double), le sagadi Manor hotel à Sagadi, ..., vous les connaissez? d'autres suggestions d'hostels, guesthouses, ...??
On a vu les guesthouses comme l'Euphoria GH, Viru backpackers, Old town hostel, c'est autour de 30/40€ pour une chambre double (notre budget). Je viens de regarder le Oldhouse, c'est très intéressant, merci pour l'info😉
Je serais plus tenté maintenant par le parc Lahemaa, les villages côtiers de préférence.
Ok, bon choix. En bus, vérifiez toutefois la fréquence des bus depuis Tallinn et comment relier les villages cotiers entre eux si vous souhaitez bouger.
Pour se loger il y a donc le Rannaliiv à Vösu (44€ la double avec petit dej),
J'y ai séjourné cet été 3 nuits. La patronne est sympa. Les chambres sont correctes avec un petit balcon donnant sur un jardin extérieur. Petit déjeuner correct mais sans plus. Avantage de Võsu, la plage et la pinède longent le village. Il y a plusieurs restaurant et un petut super marché.
le Merekalda guesthouse à Käsmu (39€ la double)
Je ne connais pas mais Käsmu me semble plus limité que Võsu.
Je pense donc qu'on va rester sur Vösu, ça a l'air plus pratique que Käsmu qui a l'air plus limité en effet (surtout au niveau des restaurants).
De toute façon en une semaine on va rester un peu à Tallinn (qu'on adore) et rester 2/3j à Vösu pour se balader en pleine nature, être au calme, la semaine va vite passer.
J'ai regardé la fréquence des bus grâce au site Bussireisid, il y en a quelques uns qui font Tallinn/ Käsmu via Rakvere, ils passent par Vösu, Sagadi, ...On pourra bouger si on veut.
Nous allons réserver au Oldhouse hostel à Tallinn, qui a l'air très bien.
En espérant maintenant que l'hiver arrive en Estonie!!!
Merci pour les infos Brigitte, s'il y en a d'autres nous sommes preneur.
C'est vraiment dommage, car l'Estone est vraiment, à mon avis, un pays pleins de merveilles....néanmoins je garde en note ton projet d'itinéraire qui me semble pas mal pour 1 semaine !
J'ai contacté par mail, il y a 10 jours environ, des guesthouses et des hostels à Käsmu, Vösu et Altja (parc Lahemaa), personne n'a répondu pour l'instant...😕
Je sais que certaines ferment l'hiver mais quand même...
Va-t'on pouvoir y séjourner???
Pas d'affolage 🙂. Les estoniens n'ont pas la même notion de l'urgence que nous. Nous ne sommes qu'en novembre après tout, pour une demande de réservation en février...😎.
Je sais que certaines ferment l'hiver mais quand même...
Si l'établissement est fermé l'hiver, c'est sûrement mentionné sur le site internet. Vérifiez cette donnée avant tout. Dans le cas contraire, si l'établissement est mentionné ouvert toute l'année et que les prix pour la saison 2012 sont à jour, vous devriez avoir des réponses. Rien n'empêche de relancer début décembre, voire de passer un petit coup de fil.
Sans indiscrétion, quels établissements avez vous contacté ?
en effet il y a le temps d'ici début février, mais comme en ce moment j'ai un peu de temps avant le rush de noël et les soldes de janvier (je suis dans le commerce)!!!
J'ai envoyé à Merekalda (ils m'ont répondu qu'ils fermaient l'hiver), rannamannid, LAANE PANSION, Rannaliiv, Toomarahva turismitalu à Altja, Sireli guesthouse, Metsa Puhkemaja.
Voilà, je ne m'en fais pas mais on aimerait vraiment trouver un hébergement là bas (Vösu, Käsmu ou Altja), pour se balader dans ce parc Lahemma!!
Je les relancerai vers mi décembre.
Voilà, je ne m'en fais pas mais on aimerait vraiment trouver un hébergement là bas (Vösu, Käsmu ou Altja), pour se balader dans ce parc Lahemma!!
Je pense que vous trouverez vu le nombre contacté. Sinon, il y a la guest house de Sagadi qui ne ferme pas en hiver à ma connaissance. Pour Võsu, je vais me renseigner et essayer de vous trouver d'autres adresses.
voici quelques news sur l'hébergement au Lahemaa: nous avons relancé toutes les adresses que nous avions sur Altja, Käsmu et Vösu, une guesthouse nous a répondu qu'elle était fermée.
En résumé il n'y a que Laane Pansion qui est ouvert l'hiver. Donc nous allons réserver.
Je pense aussi que nous allons louer une voiture à Tallinn pour pouvoir plus facilement bouger dans le parc. J'aurais une question: faut-il un permis de conduire international?
J'ai vu que les locations commençaient à 20/22€ par jour, ça vaut le coup.
Vivement le 29 janvier et j'espère que le temps sera plus "estonien"...
Merci beaucoup pour toutes vos infos.
J'ai vu que les locations commençaient à 20/22€ par jour, ça vaut le coup
Oui. Attention toutefois aux assurances incluses pour ce tarif, c'est parfois très sommaire.
j'espère que le temps sera plus "estonien
Hier et avant hier il y avait une tempête de neige du moins à Tartu. Mais il semble que pour l'instant, neige et pluie se disputent la régence 🙁. Pas vraiment de neige et des températures extrêmement douces pour la saison.
Merci pour les infos!!
Hier nous avons reçu un mail de "toomarahva" à Altja, (ils avaient des problèmes informatiques et donc ne pouvaient pas nous répondre plus tôt).
Ils ont des chambres libres et c'est une adresse qui nous semblait pleine de charme donc nous allons réserver.
En ce qui concerne la location de voiture, je vais bien lire les conditions!!
Ma moitié et moi avons une semaine fin Janvier / début Février et nous ne rêvons que d'une chose: se retrouver dans un cadre romantique et de la neige! Après…
Je vais passer 2/3 jours à Tallinn et j'envisage de faire quelque chose en dehors de la ville le 2ème jour. Aussi j'ai le choix entre: * Aller à Narva *…
Nous souhaiterions louer une voiture à Vilnius et la restituer à Riga. Auriez-vous une agence locale à nous conseiller. D'autre part nous aimerions passer…
Estonian Air me propose un trajet Bruxelles / St Pétersbourg avec escale d'1h10 à Tallinn. Ça me parait un peu court! Quelqu'un a-t-il déjà testé? Merci…
Bonjour,
Nous partons à Istanbul du 7 au 12 octobre. J’aimerais faire un diner croisière sur le Bosphore sur bateau plutôt intime (sans spectacle) avec table privée et alcool (vin car diner d’anniversaire) qui pourrait me conseiller une compagnie sérieuse (je ne cherche pas non plus un yacht privé) qui organise ce type de soirée.
Merci d’avance,
We want to book our tickets to visit the Acropolis site and the associated museum. For these reservations, we need to specify entry time slots.
For the Acropolis alone: the first slot is at 8:30 AM.
For the museum: 10 AM? 11 AM?
We like to wander around, so here’s our question: if we haven’t finished exploring the site after 1.5 hours, is it possible to go back in after leaving the museum?
We’ll be buying tickets from the official websites—audio guides are mentioned. Any feedback on those? On sites like Get Your Guide, the prices are much higher with the audio guide included, but does that mean better quality?
I'm currently planning a trip to Cyprus for late October. I have a few questions:
- I plan to visit Nicosia, Paphos, and Ayia Napa. What do you recommend in Ayia Napa?
- Is it easy to get around by bus from one city to another? Or do you have any private drivers to recommend?
- Do you have any hotels to recommend?
Any tips or advice is welcome!
Thanks in advance
Hi, I’d like to buy a ticket to go to Terezín from Prague using the Pid Litacka app, but I don’t know which zone to get the ticket for. Thanks for your help! 😊
Hi there,
After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.
Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking...
So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.
I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet.
But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!
And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
Hi, I’m going to Turkey for 3 weeks. I’ve heard that you can’t book through Booking.com once you’re there and that everything has to be reserved in advance. Is it true that Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey? Thanks to anyone who’s already been or is there—if it’s true, how do you handle bookings?
I’d love to get your opinions and advice on a destination.
It’s actually for my 19-year-old son who wants to go to Greece with his cousin, who’s the same age.
They’re looking at leaving on October 24th for 7 to 10 days.
For their trip, they want gorgeous beaches where they can swim, beautiful typical villages and historic cities, stunning landscapes, but also lively spots for their nights out. In short, they’re not just going there to laze around—they want to make the most of it...
But here’s the thing: will the weather be too iffy at that time, especially for swimming?
Also, would Crete be the best choice for what they’re looking for?
Then, a travel agent suggested Tenerife instead because of the weather at that time of year—he said the climate there is the same all year round. But will they find landscapes and beaches as beautiful as in Crete?
Hello!
I’m planning a trip to Greece in May or June 2027. We’re independent travelers.
We’ll rent a car after our stay in Athens and book accommodations through Booking or similar sites.
What do you think of this itinerary? We’re taking our time (beach and swimming if the weather allows in May—is the water too cold?)
Athens, 3 days
Nafplio, 3 days (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Archaia)
Mystras, 2 days or Monemvasia, 2 days (Laconia peninsula)?? Dilemma between the two
Return trip from the Peloponnese via the Rio-Antirrio bridge
Nafpaktos, 1 night
Arachova, 2 days (Delphi, Osios Loukas Monastery)
Return to Athens and departure
Is it crowded in May or June for visits to archaeological sites?
Thanks for your suggestions or corrections!
Hi there,
Our first trip to Greece as a couple. We're planning to spend 7 days in Greece from August 30th to September 5th. We'll reserve 2 days for Athens at the end of the trip. For the remaining 5 days, we want to visit an island—any recommendations? Thanks for your tips and details, we really appreciate it.
Hi,
What tips can you give me for dealing with a car rental scam attempt in Lithuania?
In our case, it’s the Avis-Budget agency in Vilnius trying to scam us.
We rented a car at Vilnius Airport for 2 weeks on July 28, 2019, to return it in Tallinn on August 11.
We brought it back on August 11 at the airport, in perfect condition, and with a full tank at the gas station right by Tallinn Airport.
On the parking lot, the receptionist’s booth was closed. So we had to leave the car in the lot and go to the counter inside the airport. The person at the counter told us their colleague had gone for lunch!
But they refused to come out and do the inspection with us because they were alone at the counter.
They told us we could leave and that everything was fine!!!!
Two days later, we got an email from Avis-Budget with two invoices saying the car was damaged—scratched on both sides—and charging us for a full tank of gas. That’s two bills totaling 800 €!!!! Coincidentally, the deposit was 900 €!
It’s clear this isn’t over!!
Have any of you been through the same nightmare? How did you handle it?
Thanks in advance!
I’m spending 2 weeks in Crete in September and will need a rental car.
I usually go with Europcar, but comparing their offer to what Aegean Rentals has, I see Europcar is charging no less than 400 € more for the same car and similar insurance!
I’d love to hear if others have experience with Aegean Rentals, and if so, whether it was a good one?
Hi,
We’re heading to Greece in early October and will be staying in Kineta, north of the Saronic Gulf, and renting a car.
Is it feasible to visit Acrocorinth, Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidaurus in a single day?
Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi there!
I’m sharing our itinerary for May/June 2027—23 days. This is our first time in Greece, so we’re starting with the must-see spots. We’re planning another trip later to explore the north, Thessaloniki, Macedonia, and some islands.
- Athens, 4 nights
- Corinth area, 2 nights (Heraion of Perachora, Canal, Acrocorinth)
- Nafplio, 3 nights (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Methana peninsula)
- Gefira, 2 nights (Monemvasia)
- Areopoli, 2 nights (Mani). Maybe add an extra night and stay on the peninsula??? Based on my calculations, the Mani loop is about 100 km—doable in a day, but it’d be a quick trip.
- Sparta or Pikoulianika, 2 nights (Mystras)
- Dimitsana, 2 nights (Lousios Gorge, monasteries)
- Olympia, 2 nights (via Lagkadia?)
- Delphi or Arachova, 3 nights (via the west coast, Galaxidi bridge) (Delphi, Hosios Loukas Monastery)
- And back to Athens.
This is just a rough draft for now. We’re planning to stay in hotels or book through Booking.com. What do you think? Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Over the past twenty-five years, I’ve traveled the roads between France and Moldova a good ten times, sometimes via Central Europe, other times via the Balkans.
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours.
Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours.
This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus.
Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:
In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth.
In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well.
Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions!
Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city.
I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint
Visit the Baroque gardens
St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit
National Theatre
Discover the Cumil statues
Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie
Michael’s Gate
Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna
Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid
Head down to the Blue Church
Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge
There you go—10 km and a packed day!
What do you think?
Hi there,
we’re heading to Crete from May 8th to 15th, staying at a hotel in Agia Pelagia, 20 km from Heraklion, on half-board, so we’ll be back every evening. What daily itinerary would you recommend? We love hiking and discovering local cultures...
Thanks in advance!!