Trek au Ladakh: quelques questions pratiques
by Hugues242
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour tout le monde,
ma femme et moi sommes en pleine préparation pour un trek au Ladakh début juillet (avons déjà réservé les vols). Nous avons déjà une certaine expérience de trekking en Himalaya (Circuit des Annapurnas) et dans les Alpes. Comme nous ne disposons que de onze jours sur place (du 1er au 11), le trek ne sera forcément pas de très longue durée (5/6 jours maximum). N'ayant pas encore fait le choix fondamental entre un trek non-guidé (ce qui limité evidemment le nombre de parcours possibles), et un trek via agence, nous avons quelques questions afin de se faire une idée:
- trek non-guidé: là, je pense aux parcours Chiling-Martselang (la version courte de la vallée du Markha) ou Chiling-Stok via le Ganda La et le Stok La). Le site de Himalayan Homestays montre qu'il y a assez de homestays en cours de route. Cependant, est-il vraiment nécessaire de réserver tout cela à l'avance, comme ils le préconisent sur leur site ?
- trek via agence: par exemple Lamayuru-Chiling, Lamayuru-Alchi, Chiling-Martselang, ou bien un trek à partir de la vallée de la Nubra en direction de Leh. Je ne suis pas du tout contre l'idée de faire un trek via une agence (possibilité de rencontrer des gens) mais me demande sérieusement s'il faut réserver cela à l'avance. Le guide du Lonely Planet (Inde) dit que réserver à l'avance pourrait tripler le prix du trek. Faudrait-il donc attendre d'être arrivé sur place pour faire le tour des trekking agencies réputés et de voir ce qui est possible ? Je suppose qu'ils proposeront de s'associer à un groupe (coûtera moins cher de partir à deux) et que le choix du trek dépendra de ça.
- trek à partir de la vallée de la Nubra: est-il conseillé de traverser le col du Khardong après seulement deux jours d'acclimatation à Leh, vu la hauteur, ou est-ce que cela ne joue aucun rôle puisqu'on déscend d'aussi vite ?
Merci de m'éclaircir un petit peu par rapport à ces sujets.
Bonne journée,
Hugues
Nous avons parcouru la vallée de Markha en juillet 2011. Il n'y a eu aucun problème d'hébergement. Nous n'avions fait aucune réservation. D'ailleurs je ne vois pas comment cela pourrait être possible. Mais faire attention aux pauses déjeuner car il peut être difficile de trouver de la nourriture à midi (le forfait Homestay à 400Rs (2011) inclut un piquenique pour pallier cela) Peu de monde sur le chemin et souvent avec porteurs donc avec tentes. Nous l'avons effectué sans guide ni porteur sans aucune difficulté avec ma fille de 16ans. Le trek complet est donné pour 7 jours mais nous l'avons tranquillement fait en 11. L'entrée se fait ou peut se faire juste au sud de Leh (accès très facile). La route progresse sur au moins 7km vers Jingchang et aussi dans la vallée de Markha probablement à partir de Chilling. Nous avons vu un bulldozer sorti de nulle part à Skiu.
Chilling Martselang paraît donc facilement faisable en 5 jours (remontée de la vallée de Markha) puisque toute le première partie avec le premier col est shuntée (au moins 3 jours).
Bonne ballade.
Bonjour,
- agences : inutiles sur les treks proches de Leh ou au départ de Chiling. Vous aurez le gîte et le couvert à chaque étape sur tous les treks. Par contre, il vous faudra une agence pour les treks au départ de la Nubra : en moyenne 4 jours avec un col très haut. Si vous portez votre tente, vous pouvez faire Lamayuru-Chiling (5 jours).
- réservations : inutiles si vous n'êtes que deux. Tous les groupes prennent une agence et ont leurs tentes et leur(s) cuisinier(s).
- le passage du Khardong La n'est pas un obstacle car on redescend tout de suite pour finir encore plus bas que Leh (3000m au lieu de 3500m). D'ailleurs, quand on vient au Ladakh par la route, on passe le Tanglang La qui est à plus de 5300m.
- sans agence, je choisirai Chiling-Martselang. Avec agence, Skuru-Sasposche-Saspol depuis la Nubra : plus difficile à organiser pour une agence et donc beaucoup plus (trop) cher.
Bons préparatifs.
Merci Djullé 84 !
Question treks, la classique Markha Valley (on n'a qu'une petit semaine à disposition pour le trek, donc ce serait àpd Chilling) me semble (d'après ce que je lis) offrir la plus grande variété de paysages, et comme on y serait début juillet, il n'y aurait probablement pas encore trop de monde, je suppose. J'ai effectivement lu que ce trek est parfaitement possible sans agence, mais il est vrai qu'on est relativement tenté par l'offre de Ladakh's Women Travel Company (guide + homestays, €30/jour pp), qui pourrait permettre une approche douce et personnelle de la vallée et ses habitants. A méditer et réflechir... Sinon, le trek Lamayuru-Chilling (avec agence, car on n'a pas envie de porter notre tente) reste tentant, mais là les offres qu'on a reçu sont quand même plus chères (€60/jour p/p pour un groupe de deux, €55/jour p/p si on s'associe à un groupe).
En tous cas, j'ai hâte d'y être ! 😉
Bonjour,
C'est toujours plus cher de commander en Europe. Beaucoup de concurrence sur Leh. Homestay en 2011 donc nuit tous repas compris normalisé 400Rs/p. disons 7€ peut être aujourd'hui. Guide à négocier 10€/j? (salaire journalier en Inde (hors tourisme) où je travaille peut être 4€/j parfois moins). La grande armada avec les mulets c'était 55€/j.p pour 2 en 2011 donc cela me semble cohérent.
Bonne ballade
La proposition des Ladakh's Women est intéressante, tout en homestay (sauf Nimaling sous tente-dortoir) tout en étant accompagné.
Sinon, à Lamayuru, on trouve des ânes et des chevaux de portage pour 300 Rs/jour pour un âne et 400 Rs/jour pour un cheval. Ces prix sont ceux de 2012. Il vous faudrait louer 2 animaux pour porter vos affaires et la tente. Il y a des tentes-restaurants à chaque étape jusqu'à Chiling. Le "horseman" est compris dans le prix.
Le patron de la Lion-Den Guesthouse, à l'entrée de Lamayuru en venant de Leh, vous trouvera les chevaux, ou bien son frère dans la guesthouse à-côté, ou bien n'importe qui car tout le monde se connait.
A vous de choisir !
Il y a plein d'agences les unes à côté ds autres à LEH
le treck peut partir m^me avec 2 personnes
par contre ça peut prendre quelques jours pour se connecter, organiser...
alors le temps ça peut être de l'argent, si vos jours sont comptés...
Internet peut être pratique...
en 06/2012 pour la markha valley avec 2 guides -porteur - à 2 personnes = 18000 Rs / personne en lodge sauf une nuit en tente, 7 jours pour idée ce n'était pas trop cher
en 06/2012 pour la markha valley avec 2 guides -porteur - à 2 personnes = 18000 Rs / personne en lodge sauf une nuit en tente, 7 jours pour idée ce n'était pas trop cher
Bonjour,
Ca me parait rapide 7 jours car c'est bon aussi de prendre du temps dans un environnement aussi fantastique et après un si long voyage. Nous avons fait le parcours tranquillement en 11 jours et nous ne le regrettons pas. Nous y serions même bien restés deux semaines pour tenter de monter sur l'Hemis.
Bonjour,
Ca me parait rapide 7 jours car c'est bon aussi de prendre du temps dans un environnement aussi fantastique et après un si long voyage. Nous avons fait le parcours tranquillement en 11 jours et nous ne le regrettons pas. Nous y serions même bien restés deux semaines pour tenter de monter sur l'Hemis.
Oui bien sûr c'est super de prendre son temps... ça vaut le coup.........
Oui bien sûr c'est super de prendre son temps... ça vaut le coup.........
7 jours ça va bien je trouve, j'ai fais en 5 Hemis-Zinchen, c'était un peu rapide, mais on a quand même le temps d'apprécier le paysage en marchant ;). Attention, toute fois à l'acclimatation. Depuis Nyamaling, je suis monté jusqu'au pied du Kang Yatse, c'est magnifique, je vous conseille d'en faire autant !
Une agence est assez inutile, le chemin étant facile à suivre. Peut-être un muletier, mais si vous dormez en homestay, c'est même pas trop le peine ! Encore, si vous avez tout le matériel de camping, ça vaudrait le coup, mais là, j'éviterais.
Bon voyage en tout cas !
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Merci à tout le monde pour vos réponses d'expert. Après considération, nous ferons le circuit de la Markha Valley en six jours en partant de Chiling. Nous dormirons en homestay et aurons un guide de la Ladakhi Women Travel Company. Dès notre retour, je ferai part ici de mes expériences.
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
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Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.




