Trekking in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan?
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GA
Hi everyone! Just back from the Manaslu Circuit in Nepal, and I think for my next trip, I'd love a wilder environment. I'm considering a trek (two to three weeks) in Central Asia. Several agencies organize this kind of trip, and I was initially leaning toward Tajikistan, but after looking at travel photos, the landscapes seem very similar to the Alps, while Kyrgyzstan’s scenery looks more "exotic"—maybe closer to Mongolia? But these are just photos, and I’m struggling to get a real sense of it. I’d love to hear from people who’ve been to these destinations... Thanks so much! :-)
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
It depends on where in each country, but in my opinion, Kyrgyzstan has landscapes more similar to the Alps, like in the valleys above Karakol, though it also has steppe-like scenery. Tajikistan is more remote and less touristy than Kyrgyzstan.
VO Voyageur1606 Regular ·
Back from the Manaslu Circuit in Nepal, I think for my next trip I’d like a wilder environment.

Nepal still has plenty of wild regions—there’s no shortage of them. 😉
"When I saw the Hoggar Mountains, my jaw dropped. If you think of Bryce, or Canyonlands National Park, you're close, but the Hoggar Mountains are more spectacular." David Ball, Empire of sands
GA Galadriella ·
Hi there! Maybe, but it seems like agencies don’t offer many options (I only found one trip, in western Nepal, toward Lake Rara, but the route didn’t look very challenging, so I ruled it out). Since I’ll be traveling solo, I’d like to join a group, so I need to go through an agency.
VO Voyageur1606 Regular ·
There’s the Upper Dolpo, Upper Mustang, or Kanchenjunga, but it’s not cheap.
"When I saw the Hoggar Mountains, my jaw dropped. If you think of Bryce, or Canyonlands National Park, you're close, but the Hoggar Mountains are more spectacular." David Ball, Empire of sands
GA Galadriella ·
Yeah, I’ve considered the Upper Dolpo—it really appeals to me, but wow, it’s so expensive...!
ME Meg2 Globetrotter ·
There are landscapes similar to the Alps in both Kyrgyzstan (Pamir Alay and Tian Shan) and Tajikistan (Fan Mountains), as well as in southeastern Kazakhstan (Tian Shan, Ala Tau). And there are stunning and/or more off-the-beaten-path landscapes in all three countries. If you're looking for more remote spots, generally speaking, Tajikistan has the least tourist infrastructure, while Kyrgyzstan has a higher density of tourists. But still, we're far from mass tourism once you step away from the main routes.

The trade-off is that you need to be more self-sufficient: in the Pamir, there are only a few isolated base camps, the population density is low, and except in the main valley bottoms, locals don’t have much in stock.

There are also interesting treks on the Chinese or Pakistani sides, but I haven’t tried them—the logistics are more complicated, especially in China’s Xinjiang, where it’s nearly impossible to travel independently.
ON OneChai Veteran ·
In Tajikistan, as mentioned earlier, the landscapes that resemble the Alps are in the Fan Mountains (which I haven’t visited, by the way). On the other hand, in the Pamir, it’s a whole different story. It’s extremely mineral—very similar to the landscapes in Ladakh, India, or northern Pakistan. I find it incredibly impressive, especially along the Wakhan Valley, with its lush green fields in the valley when cultivated, and then these massive, completely barren mountains. Personally, this kind of landscape is my preference, which is why I have a huge soft spot for Tajikistan. But of course, that’s just a matter of taste. For a better idea of what these landscapes look like, there are two photo galleries and quite a few articles with pictures on my blog in the Tajikistan section.
One Chaï, blog de voyages à contre-courant : https://onechai.fr
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
For a better idea of what these landscapes look like, there are 2 photo galleries and quite a few articles with photos on my blog in the section Tajikistan

And here too ....😉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipkIpiZBAxs&t=0s
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
GA Galadriella ·
... Thanks for the link. If I may ask for your opinion, out of the trips below offered by Terres d'Aventure (for example), which one do you find more interesting and scenic? https://www.terdav.com/ps-tadjikistan#suggestions Thanks a lot!
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Not applicable in your case, since you want to go hiking in the Pamirs and not in the Fann Mountains (more alpine), and you're also not mentioning going to Uzbekistan.
PE Perju Globetrotter ·
...If I may ask for your opinion, which of the trips below offered by Terres d'Aventure (for example) seems the most interesting and scenic to you...?

Couldn’t have said it better than Willemspie—the itineraries they’re considering are mixed, with Uzbek cities and mountain circuits. If you don’t want to go to Uzbekistan, there’s no option with this agency. On the other hand, if Uzbekistan appeals to you and you don’t want to see landscapes like the Alps, the one including Song Kol Lake is the only one with a more "Mongolian" vibe, but only in that area... and Issyk-Kul, in my opinion, isn’t great.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
GA Galadriella ·
Ah, so the Fann Mountains won't be as much of a change of scenery, then...? I don’t mind heading to Uzbekistan after the trek to see some of the wonders of the famous Silk Road, even if trekking is my priority. I don’t know why, but the Pamir seems to be less offered by agencies and it’s also more expensive...?
MI Michael7759 Regular ·
Hi there!

I’ve been to Kyrgyzstan but not Tajikistan.

As mentioned earlier, the hikes around Karakol are quite similar to the Alps... if you're looking for something "wild," you can find it, but you’ll need to "break away" from the classic Karakol treks to encounter fewer hikers. Either way, it doesn’t resemble the "Mongolian steppes"—these are alpine-style mountains. https://un-tour-dans-le-sac.fr/randonnees-dans-les-montagnes-de-karakol/

I’ve also explored the area around Song Kol Lake, and wow, it’s a whole different vibe! Steppe-like landscapes, yurts, horses—we loved it. Some parts around Song Kol Lake are a bit "touristy" (though it’s all relative). But if you’re up for a little adventure, it’s easy to get off the beaten path. https://un-tour-dans-le-sac.fr/trek-vers-le-lac-son-koul/

Happy travels!
https://un-tour-dans-le-sac.fr/
GA Galadriella ·
Ah, it's a tough call... I’d love to feel a bit off the beaten path, but I’ve heard Kyrgyzstan is more touristy than Tajikistan, which makes me a little nervous. Also, I’d rather sleep in a tent than a yurt because, from what I’ve read, yurts can get pretty crowded—hello snoring, I know how it goes from staying in mountain huts! So maybe Tajikistan fits my criteria better (stunning landscapes, challenging treks, camping, and wild nature...)?
MI Michael7759 Regular ·
Yeah, Kyrgyzstan is definitely more touristy than Tajikistan... I don’t know Tajikistan at all, though, so it might be what suits you best. That said, keep in mind that tourism in Kyrgyzstan is still pretty low-key, and it’s easy to find yourself alone in the mountains camping wild with your own tent...
https://un-tour-dans-le-sac.fr/
ON OneChai Veteran ·
Agencies tend to recommend the Fan Mountains because they're much more quickly accessible from Dushanbe. The Pamir is remote and takes a long time to get to, not to mention it's tricky to combine with anything else.

Anyway, no guarantees on this analysis—it's just my take, worth what it's worth.
One Chaï, blog de voyages à contre-courant : https://onechai.fr
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
The Fann Mountains offer some really beautiful hiking, but you yourself mentioned at the start that you wanted something different, and you’ll find that in the Pamirs. I—and others who’ve replied here—have traveled and hiked in the Pamirs without going through any agency.
GA Galadriella ·
Yeah, it's tempting to go without using any agency, but traveling alone doesn't appeal to me, and I don't know who to go with. So apart from an agency, I don't have any ideas.
ME Meg2 Globetrotter ·
A local guide based in the Pamir might be a good solution, given what attracts you. I know there’s at least one independent guide in the Bartang Valley: Ibex Pamir Tourism: www.pamirtourism.com

There are also several possible contacts through the Khorog tourism office, "Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association": pecta.tj > members

Note: There aren’t many trekkers in the Pamir, so it won’t always be possible to join a group if you have date constraints. Plus, trekking there is generally more expensive than in the north of the country because it’s harder to access, and local agriculture produces little—so they bring in supplies by truck from Dushanbe or Osh. That said, life in Tajikistan is still relatively cheap for us.

Otherwise, the Fan Mountains are less exotic than the Alps in terms of landscapes, that’s for sure, but they’re beautiful, and life with Tajik villagers is still quite immersive... I haven’t been back since the Samarkand–Panjakent road reopened. The upside of this reopening: you can easily combine the Fan Mountains with visits to cities like Samarkand. Possible downside: a few more tourists, but there were really very few before 2017!
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Back from the Manaslu Circuit in Nepal, I think for my next trip I’d like a wilder environment. I’m considering a trek (two to three weeks) in Central Asia. Several agencies organize this kind of trip, and I was leaning toward Tajikistan, but after looking at travel photos, the landscapes seem very similar to the Alps, while Kyrgyzstan’s scenery looks more "exotic"—maybe closer to Mongolia...?

Beyond certain areas of Nepal (Naar-Phu, Upper Mustang, Upper Dolpo), Ladakh and Zanskar also offer landscapes that feel far removed from alpine settings for those looking for something different. There are plenty of French-speaking agencies offering treks in this region.

These areas share the trait of being very mineral-rich, as they’re trans-Himalayan.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
GA Galadriella ·
hi, well, why not... but I get the impression that most treks are in lodges or homestays—I’m looking for something more tent-based... though I’ll dig deeper into this option... I’ve also considered Pakistan, but it’s as expensive as Dolpo—I’m not sure if it’s still about permits or complicated logistics...
GA Galadriella ·
... I said something silly—I’m seeing offers for under tents. Thanks for the idea, I’ll look into this option, it’s way cheaper than the Upper Dolpo, for example (but maybe there are more people there too...?)
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Are you talking about Pakistan now? That's high mountain terrain, not the open landscapes you mentioned at first, except for Deosai. Pakistan is way less touristy than Nepal, and there are treks without any tourists. Also, in Pakistan, pretty much all treks are done camping.
GA Galadriella ·
I know they're different... but they both make me dream for other reasons. I also really like the "high mountain" vibes. The problem (same with Tajikistan) is that agencies can't guarantee trips will run in September because there wouldn't be enough participants (you need at least 4). That's the downside of less touristy destinations...!
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Pakistani agencies can organize a private trek for you. When I did the K2 trek with a local agency, there were only 2 tourists in our group.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Travel agencies can't be sure at all that the trips will go ahead in September, because there wouldn't be enough participants (you need at least 4).

Form your own group! There's still a little time left... 😉

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
VO Voyageur1606 Regular ·
Ladakh and Zanskar offer landscapes that are truly off the beaten path for those looking for something beyond alpine settings. There are plenty of offers from French-speaking agencies for treks in this region.

It seems like roads are being built everywhere in Ladakh and Zanskar. Plus, agencies now offer treks with 4x4 transfers, so they're far from being as wild as they used to be.
"When I saw the Hoggar Mountains, my jaw dropped. If you think of Bryce, or Canyonlands National Park, you're close, but the Hoggar Mountains are more spectacular." David Ball, Empire of sands
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Sure, roads are improving and now even reach villages that trekkers used to praise as being in the middle of nowhere.

But road density per km² is still among the lowest in Ladakh and Zanskar.

And when a road is present, it’s not necessarily a major nuisance.

In August 2014, when I trekked in Zanskar from Pidmu to Photaksar, the road was already there from Kyupa La (between Lingshed and Sengge La). Yet, it wasn’t really bothersome—it stayed off the trail except on the southern slope of Sengge La. Plus, only one car passed all day. So, minimal noise disturbance.

True, this road has ruined the Yapola Gorge. But it’s not hard to avoid it. If you're heading south to north, from Photaksar, you can continue through the Askuta Gorge, which is just as impressive.

In the vastness of Zanskar, it’s not difficult to steer clear of the few roads that have been built. And creative agencies offer adapted itineraries.

Sure, we’re no longer walking on a centuries-old commercial route, but the landscapes haven’t suffered for it.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
KO Kone13 ·
Hi Nancy,

For Tajikistan, I’d recommend going with a local guide. It’s way more affordable than booking through a French agency like Alibert or Td’Av.

I did it myself last September—a 9-day trek in the Fann Mountains. Total change of scenery, pristine nature, and meeting local people. Feel free to DM me for more details and my guide’s contact info.

Michel
GA Galadriella ·
Hi, Thanks so much for the suggestion. I’ve finally decided on Pakistan for this summer, but I’ll keep the tip in mind for a future trip!
PL PLL64260 ·
Hi Gabriella, Did you end up doing your trek and where? Were you there alone? Could you possibly share the itinerary and travel tips with me? Thanks, Philippe
GA Galadriella ·
Hi there,

Uh, given the context... I don’t really see how I could’ve gone on any trip... I was supposed to leave for Pakistan in July, but everything got canceled. So here I am... no trip to report back on!
PL PLL64260 ·
Yeah, that’s clear... I kinda figured that.... I was supposed to be in Peru since Monday too ☹️.... Was it with an agency in Pakistan?
GA Galadriella ·
a local agency, Apricot. Postponed to next year... if all goes well...!
PL PLL64260 ·
fingers crossed.... I’m also hoping to go back to Peru. This year... you’re not planning anything?
PL PLL64260 ·
thanks for the APRICOT agency... seems legit.
GA Galadriella ·
I can confirm that apricot seems great. This year, I'm hesitating, but if I go this autumn, I'll definitely use my credit with Qatar, and I'm not sure I'll have the budget next summer to go to Pakistan... Especially since I've already paid the deposit for that trip, so it would make more sense to stick to that plan.
PL PLL64260 ·
Yeah, it's a shame to lose your deposit... You could always trek in France, but it's not the same as going abroad😎 I still don’t know what to do—maybe a trek in the Pyrenees, or the Peaks of the Balkans... or something else. Gonna have to put my thinking cap on—it’s not easy finding a solo trekking idea that’s not too far away, just in case COVID comes back😄
GA Galadriella ·
... That’s another issue (a potential Covid resurgence). I’d be so gutted if I planned everything for a trip to Nepal in October or November (the only mountain destination that works this season) and ended up stuck at home—with another non-refundable deposit down the drain...! At the same time, I’m itching to get far away again... I don’t know what I’ll do. I’ll wait a bit longer...
PL PLL64260 ·
for sure!!! Nepal....did you do the base camp via the 3 high passes? It's possible without an agency—it’d save you a deposit....it's gorgeous
GA Galadriella ·
All by myself? I’m not sure I want to carry all my stuff alone—that’s the main issue!
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
I can't help with Nepal or Pakistan, but in Tajikistan, if you're open to the idea, you can choose different locations and go on day hikes from your "base." That way, you can be there on your own, without an agency. The various bases are towns in the Fanns, not Penjikent. There are some shared or chartered transports to get from one "base" to another. Otherwise, yes, there are local agencies, but DIY isn’t a crazy idea.

It’s not a 100% practical guide, but the Odyssey-published guide on Tajikistan still gives tons of ideas.

Michel
GA Galadriella ·
... Thanks for this interesting lead, but it seems like it’d be better to go with at least two people so it’s not too dangerous. In the Alps I sometimes hike alone, but I always let someone know my route. I’d be really hesitant to venture alone in the mountains of Tajikistan...
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
I respect your choice, but just because you're going to a country ending in "-stan" doesn’t mean you’re at more risk than in France. I’ve been to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan, but always on separate trips and without an agency. Combining Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan if your goal is hiking doesn’t make much sense. Kyrgyzstan sees more tourists than Tajikistan, but it’s not Ibiza. Tajikistan is more unknown and "wild" in the adventurous sense. Above all, it’s a matter of choice.

Michel
GA Galadriella ·
Well, let's say if I break my leg hiking in Tajikistan, it still seems way more complicated than in the Alps because no one will worry if I don’t make it back by evening. That’s what would hold me back.
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
The Pamir is drier and different. Here too, the Odyssey helps you get an idea and choose. Combining both is possible, but you’ll obviously need enough time.

Michel
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
Thousands of people fall in their bathrooms or on the stairs every year. No bathrooms or stairs in the wilds of Tajikistan... I don’t think it’s any different in Nepal, Pakistan, or Kyrgyzstan...

Michel
MV Mvbergen Globetrotter ·
The people you're staying with will worry if you're not back by evening. It's not the same country and context, but this happened to me in Armenia with a family when I came back very late due to transport issues and getting a bit lost...

Michel
ME Meg2 Globetrotter ·
The people you're staying with will worry if you're not back by evening.

yeah, but this doesn’t apply to backpackers who are camping in the mountains. As for accidents on trails or roads, if you get injured and need surgery, it’s still pretty complicated in Tajikistan...

Back in 2015, I was there with a friend who fractured her collarbone and hand after a bike fall. We weren’t in some remote valley—we were on a fairly major road less than 100 km from the capital. We had to figure out how to get a taxi to Dushanbe, and from there, after two exams at two different hospitals, the most reasonable option was an emergency flight home. When we got our insurance company on the phone, they immediately told us, "If you can make it to Dushanbe airport, we’ll handle the rest, but beforehand, we have no contacts on the ground—you’re on your own." And this was with Inter Mutuelles Assistance, not some small, sketchy agency...

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