Alors voilà, lorsque j'utilise le frein avant il y a un bruit, ou plutôt un grincement, un peu comme si la fourche en carbone allait se barrer.
Sur la vidéo j'ai roulé un peu en enchaînant les petits coups de freins. Le premier grincement c'est le coup de frein, et le second c'est quand j'appuie sur le guidon (comme si ça remettait la fourche à sa place...)
Tout d'abord, règle ton jeu de direction : desserre les deux vis qui serrent la potence (sur le coté) puis élimine le jeu du jeu de direction en vissant la vis du dessus qui est dans l'axe de la fourche, jusqu'à ce que le jeu disparaisse mais que tu puisses tourner la direction. Resserre alors les deux vis de la potence pour bloquer. Tu peux alors très légèrement desserrer la vis qui règle je jeu pour que ça ne soit pas elle qui supporte l'effort en cas de desserrage de la potence.
Si tu n'as rien compris à mon explication, cherche une vidéo "régler le jeu de direction".
Ensuite, va rouler pour voir si ça suffit. Si soit le jeu réapparaît soit tu ne l'élimines qu'en serrant jusqu'à bloquer la fourche, c'est que le jeu de direction est à changer. Ou qu'il y a un problème à la fourche ou au tube de direction.
8xc a tout dit!
au mieux jeu de direction à resserrer, il est peut être à changer (entre 20 et 50€ ou plus selon ce que tu mets)
au pire, une soucis avec le tube de fourche et la faudrait changer la fourche....c'est un autre budget...
Le tube de fourche est plus haut que la potence, mais si quand tu mets l'entretoise sur la potence c'est l'entretoise qui est plus haute que le tube de fourche, c'est bon. Par contre, si quand tu mets tout en place le capot du jeu de direction (la pièce du haut sur laquelle il y a la vis qui sert à serrer) le capot touche le tube de fourche et pas la potence ou l'entretoise, là ça empêche de serrer le jeu de direction. En mieux regardant, on voit que le sommet du tube de la fourche est aplati, comme s'il avait supporté un écrasement alors que ce n'est pas le cas normalement.
Dans ce cas soit tu scies quelques mm du tube de fourche (coupe tube si c'est de l'alu) ou tu le fais faire si tu ne l'as jamais fait car c'est un acte définitif et radical, soit tu ajoutes une entretoise de quelques mm sous la potence ou sous le capot.
En espérant que ce que j'écris n'est pas trop incompréhensible.
Fais une aussi bonne photo mais en mettant l'entretoise sur la potence, pour voir.
Bon bah voilà, je viens de placer l'entretoise sous la potence, il y a certes moins de jeu mais tout de même un petit grincement, peut-être que je n'ai pas assez serré la vis du haut. Si je serre trop il risque de se passer quoi en dehors du fait que le guidon sera bloqué, est-ce que cela abîmera l'expandeur ?
Concernant le sommet du tube, non je ne crois pas qu'il soit aplati, c'est probablement la mauvaise qualité de la photo.
Ca a l'air mieux en effet, pour jouer la sécurité et est sur que le jeu de direction soit serrier correctement sur la potence ou l'entretoise et non sur le tube de fourche , 2 solutions :
Couper le tube de fourche de 2 mm ou remplacer une de entretoise par une autre qui est plus large de 1ou deux mm.
Pour si peu, je remplacerai simplement une des entretoises, ca ne coute que quelques euros.
Si tu serres trop le jeu de direction, tu va mettres trop de pression sur les roulements, ta direction sera moiins fluide et a terme le jeu de direction va s'user prématurément voir casser.
C'est pas tres compliqué de bien le regler, serre un bon coup la vis centrale pour tout bien assembler puis dessere et amene la vis centrale contre sans forcer. Serre ensuite les vis latérales par demi tour cacune leur tour. C'est ces vis qui tiennent l'ensemble en place. La vis centrale a pour role de regler le jeu de direction. Y a plein de tuto sur toutube qui seront plus parlants.
Là, ça va en effet.
Que l'entretoise soit dessous ou dessus, c'est la même chose. Il faut juste qu'une fois avoir serré, le capot ne touche pas le haut de la fourche.
Arrives-tu maintenant à resserrer le jeu jusqu'au point où ça ne joue pas (sans que ça coince) ?
N'oublie pas de bien resserrer ensuite les deux vis de la potence, idéalement il faut une clef dynamométrique pour serrer no trop ni pas assez.
Je crois me souvenir que c'est un vélo que tu as acheté d'occasion donc par précaution je procéderais ainsi :
- Je démonterais complètement le jeu de direction ;
- J'en vérifierais soigneusement tous les éléments ;
- Après un nettoyage et un graissage de l'ensemble je procéderais à un remontage et un serrage avec une clé dynamométrique au couple indiqué sur la potence.
Et bien évidemment je rajouterais une entretoise de la taille appropriée.
J'ai placé l'entretoise sous la potence et j'ai resserré l'ensemble comme dit précédemment mais, toujours le même bruit, et ce qui m'embête un peu c'est que je n'ai absolument aucun jeu au niveau du JDD... Je suis allé farfouiller un peu sur les forums et j'ai trouvé un cas similaire. L'un des gars avait répondu je cite "j'ai exactement le même bruit sur 2 freins hydrauliques de gamme différente sur deux vélos différents : BMC et Canyon (mais tout les deux shimano)
je ne m'explique pas le phénomène et je l'ai remarqué aussi sur un Cannondale (vérification en mode furtif chez un revendeur)
je pense (mais n'étant pas le dieu du frein) qu'il s'agit d'un déplacement des plaquettes sur l'avant de l'étrier (transfert de masse du vélo sur les deux petites plaquettes) je ne vois que cela pour éxpliquer. En tout cas pas d'inquiètude ca freine normalement. j'ai remaqué aussi que la goupille du maintient des plaquettes avait plus de jeu que sur l'étrier arrière.
je pense (deux fois) que le poid du pilote sur ce petit élément plus la souplesse de la fourche accentuent le jeu donc le bruit aussi."
C'était sur ce site : https://forum.velotaf.com/topic/32059-claquement-frein-hydraulique/
Donc je me demande maintenant si ce n'est pas au niveau des freins...
Voici une nouvelle vidéo, en regardant au ralenti on voit la fourche se déformer légèrement lorsque je mets des coups de freins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmJmaF-IzHg
Pour répondre à Wegg, en effet c'était une occasion (300 euro, autant dire rien^^). Vu ma situation géographique, je n'ose pas démonter le JDD, d'ailleurs elle est très fluide. Et puis j'aurais peur de l’abîmer encore plus, et les gens du coins s'y connaissent encore moins que moi, sans parler du manque de matériel d'entretien (je fais allusion à la graisse, car je suppose que ce c'est pas n'importe laquelle^^). Mais dans l'ensemble le vélo semble quasi neuf, quelques mini éraflures au niveau de la fourche en carbone, mais sans plus.
8xc, j'ai bien resserré sans trop forcer mais encore une fois, je ne sens aucun jeu...
Loic285, certes il y a des tas de tuto, tu n'en as pas un qui fait allusion à ce que tu as dit ? "serre un bon coup la vis centrale pour tout bien assembler puis dessere et amene la vis centrale contre sans forcer" Je n'ai pas trop compris^^
Et si les freins étaient simplement trop efficaces ? Je n'arrête pas de mater encore et encore la vidéo au ralenti et je me dis que ça pourrait être simplement ça, qu'en pensez-vous ?
J'ai regardé la deuxième video, je ne pe se pas que ca vienne des freins.
Soit le tube de fourche est desoudé, soit le JDD est cassé ou mal monté
Demonte tout, verifie et remo te tout en regraissant bien au passage.
Ta première vidéo montrait la fourche qui bougeait au niveau du jeu de direction, tu as serré, si tu constates qu'il n'y a aucun jeu, ça c'est réglé. Sauf si du sable ou autre s'est installé dans le jeu de direction, comme l'ont dit Wegg et Loïc, tu peux démonter (sans perdre l'ordre des éléments ou en cherchant sur le net comment le remonter) nettoyer et re-graisser. La graisse pour les roulements de voitures est ok, si tu as un garage auto pas loin de chez toi. D'ailleurs, je pense qu'en dernier recours, un mécano auto ou moto même s'il ne connaît pas la mécanique vélo pourrait identifier le problème.
Pour le reste, il te faut tout revoir : serrage du disque sur la roue, serrage de l'étrier sur la fourche, mise en place des plaquettes, absence d'une plaquette qui ferait sortir le piston, tension et état des rayons et des écrous de rayon.
Et aussi le jeu du moyeu, empoigne ta roue par la jante et le pneu et bouge-la pour voir s'il y a du jeu.
Pour la fourche, c'est un frein à disque donc l'effort de freinage est repris par les fourreau de fourche, tu n'y peux rien, ça ne règle pas. Mais inspecte la fourche à la recherche de fissure voire d'un décollement entre la partie basse (carbone) et la partie haute (tube en alu).
Pas évident de savoir à distance ce qui ne va pas, donc plein de trucs à vérifier.
Bah étant donné que j’ai la fâcheuse manie de faire empirer les choses lorsque je m’amuse à démonter quoique ce soit, j’avais décidé d’amener la bête à la capitale chez un "expert" mais, avec le confinement et l’interdiction de circulation inter-wilaya, ce n’est plus tellement évident. Je vais essayer de me dégoter de la graisse au cuivre (comme c’est bon pour le titane etc.), et m’en charger moi-même 😛
Ok, bonne chance. Sinon, essaie de demander à un mécanicien auto, même s'il n'est pas spécialiste mécanique vélo, en démontant il verra sans doute s'il y a un problème.
Bon bah voilà, je me suis dégoté de la graisse rose, et pour info c’est un jeu de direction intégré, après démontage, nettoyage (il y avait un peu de sable dans la partie inférieure) et graissage, j’ai tout remis en place. Malgré tout ce cirque, le bruit persiste encore et je suis quasiment certain que cela vient soit de la roue soit du disque de frein ou carrément du moyeu. Enfin bref, J’ai fait une nouvelle vidéo, vous pourrez voir (au ralenti c'est bien mieux) que la roue change légèrement de position après chaque coup de frein, et que le bruit vient vraisemblablement du bas. Le bon côté des choses c'est qu'au moins mon JDD est clean 😛
I’d been watching this ultra-light travel movement or trend for a while.
So I gave it a try—goodbye to the 5 panniers and rear racks.
A 15L saddle bag for clothes and a stove cookset.
Two cages on the fork blades: 2x5L—mattress on one side, tent on the other.
A 5L frame bag for miscellaneous items: battery, camera, small bits and pieces.
And one on the handlebar for the sleeping bag.
I tested it this summer on a crossing from Valence to Perpignan via the Massif Central.
My conclusions:
The obvious advantage is the reduced weight. In total, I had 12 kg on the bike, which makes climbing in the mountains much easier.
Another benefit I hadn’t considered is the significantly lower wind resistance compared to a traditional setup—you really feel it when the wind’s against you.
Of course, it’s not all perfect...
For example, it’s impossible to carry a food stock. You buy just enough before each meal or go to a restaurant!
You also have to accept a more spartan comfort level at stops.
In conclusion, I think for summer trips in regions where resupplying is easy, it’s an interesting option—especially if there’s significant elevation gain.
On the other hand, it doesn’t allow for enough autonomy, so some trips are off the table.
On the bike side, I swapped my Shimano 11/34 cassette for an 11/40. Even though Shimano doesn’t recommend it with a 105 derailleur and a 46/30 double chainring, it works really well.
The only limit is avoiding the 46/40 gear ratio.
Hi,
what are the easiest ways to get back from Nordkapp without pedaling—
train, boat, or plane?
Has anyone already done this?
Thanks for sharing your tips!
Hi, does anyone have recent info on the Shikoku pilgrimage? We’re traveling as a pair by bike, and I plan to camp whenever possible because from what I’ve seen, accommodations are pretty expensive, especially for long trips. I’d love any info or tips—thanks in advance! Aichatou
I’m planning to leave Nice for Toulouse around 10/15 and I’m looking for tips / great deals regarding:
- The route: I was thinking of taking Nice - Grasse - Draguignan - Salernes - Cadarache - Cavaillon - Arles, then the Camargue, Sète, and the Canal du Midi to Toulouse. The idea is to avoid high-traffic roads and too many steep climbs. Are there any spots to avoid or must-see stops? Since it’s been a while since I’ve been on the road, I was thinking that sleeping indoors might be preferable. If you have any budget-friendly accommodation suggestions along part of the route, don’t hesitate!
Thanks in advance, and if you’re in the area around that time, we could ride together... Ciao.
Hi,
I need to arrive in Thessaloniki by bike at the end of September and I plan to head to Istanbul along the coast.
Could anyone help me pick the best route? Safety, difficulty.
Thanks in advance.
Marc
Hi everyone! Thanks for welcoming me to the forum :)
I’m preparing for a long trip heading to Nepal, with stops along the way depending on my mood, work needs, and the season. I cycle a lot, but this will be my first big touring adventure. I’d like to camp regularly to keep costs down, so I’ll be riding on all kinds of surfaces: smooth and rough roads, main highways and rocky paths to find my camping spots, flat terrain and the occasional steep slopes.
For my bike model, I’m prioritizing durability, versatility, and repairability. From that perspective, I prefer a steel frame and fork with rim brakes since I’m used to them. I’ve narrowed my choices down to four models:
- The VSF Fahrradmanufaktur T-700 LTD (1400 €): steel frame, aluminum fork, hydraulic rim brakes, 28" wheels, 40mm tires, 36 spokes (2 mm), lightweight rear rack (max 20 kg), no front rack included, smallest gear ratio of 0.72, weight of 13.9 kg.
- The VSF Fahrradmanufaktur TX-400 (2200 €): steel frame and fork, hydraulic rim brakes, 26" wheels, 50mm tires, 36 spokes (2.34 mm), front and rear racks included (40+18 kg), smallest gear ratio of 0.71, weight of 15.9 kg.
- The Genesis Tour de Fer 30 (2150 €): steel frame and fork, mechanical disc brakes, 28" wheels, 36 spokes, 40mm tires, front and rear racks included (27+10 kg), smallest gear ratio of 0.77, weight of 15.9 kg.
- The Rockrider ADTV 900 from Decathlon (1700 €): aluminum frame and fork, mechanical disc brakes, USB port, 28" wheels, 47mm tires, 28 spokes, front and rear racks included (40+20 kg), smallest gear ratio of 0.71, weight of 17.1 kg. This is the successor to the Riverside Touring 900, which was a hit.
I’ve got a few questions:
1/ Should I go for 26" or 28" wheels for my trip? 26" wheels seem better for rough terrain, but 28" wheels feel more comfortable on roads. I’ve also read that 26" tires/tubes are easier to find.
2/ Do you recommend a steel frame and fork over aluminum? I’m guessing a high-quality aluminum frame and fork would be better than a low-quality steel one, right?
3/ Regarding the smallest gear ratio, is 0.71 a good number for a loaded bike in the mountains?
4/ Finally, what do you think of these four models for my project? My heart leans toward the TX-400—it seems to combine the versatility and robustness I’m looking for. But the price difference with the T-700 LTD is making me think twice!
Thanks so much for reading and sharing your thoughts!
17 days, 1,400 km, and 17,500 m of elevation gain cycling in northern Vietnam! 🇻🇳 🚴🇻🇳
From the misty Fansipan to the breathtaking landscapes of the Ha Giang Loop, from remote villages to vibrant markets...
I cycled through the north of the country, getting up close with its people—through mud, heat, endless mountain passes, and unforgettable encounters.
Most importantly, I discovered a Vietnam far different from the usual tourist circuits.
Join me on this adventure through a video that captures these 17 days of travel. :)
If Vietnam calls to you, come ride a stretch with me!
Hi,
can anyone give us some tips on how to get to North Cape from Lyon Gerland?
What’s the best route to join the EuroVelo 7?
How many kilometers is it from Lyon to North Cape via EuroVelo 7?
The best month to leave—we’re thinking early May.
Thanks for any advice!
Looking for a female travel companion for a cycling trip (arriving by plane in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and cycling toward Montevideo, Uruguay, returning by plane to France from Buenos Aires, Argentina) – 1,500 km
Hello everyone!
I’m planning a cycling trip across Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina, with a departure set for late October, November, or December. I’m looking for a travel companion to share this long-distance adventure with.
Experience:
I already have solid experience in bicycle touring in Georgia, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan. Currently, I maintain excellent physical condition by cycling an average of 250 km over 3 days per week (4 hours a day at 20 km/h).
The trip & the pace:
Daily pace: Between 50 and 80 km per day, to make steady progress while taking time to explore.
Accommodation: Flexible and authentic. We’ll alternate between wild camping, campsites, Warmshowers, small guesthouses, and budget hotels depending on opportunities and the weather.
Looking forward to reading your message and planning this amazing journey together!
Another long-time dream of Claudio’s: the Petit Mont Cenis pass and the dam at the eponymous lake.
A place where many Italians, including my father, worked in the 1950s–60s.
Faverges → St-Michel-de-Maurienne → Lanslebourg → Petit Mont Cenis → return. 315 km, 3 days. Bivouac at St-Michel-de-M.
Brouter link
Leg One: Faverges → St-Michel-de-Maurienne
Leg Two: St-Michel → Lanslebourg → Mont Cenis Lake → St-Michel
Leg Three: St-Michel → Faverges
And it finally happened in August 2026: in the Maurienne Valley about the famous cycle route known as the V67
🇷🇼 Cycling in Rwanda: 4 episodes, an off-the-beaten-path adventure
After 3 weeks and nearly 1,200 km by bike across Rwanda, I made 4 videos to share this adventure in a different way: the landscapes, the encounters, the villages… but above all, all those incredible scenes of everyday life.
The 4 episodes are available here:
👉 https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGnfbxjccWAg
The 4th episode focuses on rural Rwandan life: simple, authentic, and sometimes surprising scenes that you only truly discover when you take the time to travel by bike.
If you have a few minutes, let yourself be transported to Rwanda…
Hi,
We bought the MSR bike tent model (2-person + large awning that can fit 2 bikes) back in 2005. It’s served us really well, especially during a year-long trip in Africa. Now, one of the poles is broken, and we’d love to replace it since that’s the only issue with the tent—we still love it! The poles are 9.35 mm in diameter, with 8 sections of 49 cm and 2 sections of 28 cm. Total length when assembled: 416 cm. Actually, two large sections are broken: one straight and one curved. It’s a pain to find replacements since this model is no longer sold anywhere.
Would anyone have this model lying around unused and be willing to sell me a pole?
Hi everyone,
In early April, I’m redoing the Vélo Francette (La Rochelle to Ouistreham), and then I’d like to cycle along the Cotentin Peninsula (which I don’t know at all), follow the coast up to Cherbourg, and then head back down to at least Saint-Malo. I’d love to know if it’s pleasant for cycling—are the roads nice? Not too windy? What are the must-see spots? Any great campsites? All your tips and advice are more than welcome, and I thank you in advance.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
I just took a trip in Tunisia from Tozeur to Douz, skirting Chott el Jerid to the south. I’m back with the urge to keep going further south via the 4x4 tracks to connect Douz to Ksar Ghilane. Has anyone driven this route recently or explored southern Tunisia?
Thanks for your tips!
fix
😎Fellow traveling cyclists or not, all of you who love travel, the pleasure of physical effort, nature, beautiful machines, people with true passions they seek to fulfill, and who also enjoy reading great literature about all this—the *200* magazine is for you just as it is for me. I should mention I have no financial or other interest in this (in an era where we accuse our politicians of all sorts of vile interests, I prefer to take precautions). I’ve been subscribed since the beginning, and every three months, I get my 130 pages of dreams (the magazine just went from 110 to 130 pages).
It covers everything from the trans-America route to the TCR (Trans Continental Race) from Belgium to a small town in Turkey, with mind-blowing averages—4,000 km and 80,000 m of elevation gain in 8 days and 15 hours for the winner. Let that sink in, and all of it without assistance—accepting a patch could penalize you. There’s also a story about crossing Iran, encountering one of the world’s most welcoming populations, following in the footsteps of Nicolas Bouvier, as well as retirees leisurely traversing France. The common thread in all these stories? Beautiful writing. Take, for example, a stunning article: *"Passengers of the Cold: From Edinburgh to Thurso, at the very north of Scotland, 550 km of moors, coasts, and icy wind. In Thurso, the road ends at a quay, facing the Orkney Islands. We wanted a November trip, off-season. We wanted to surprise winter. Just before the snow."* A sublime piece on the experience of facing adversity and the chance encounters along the road and in the elements.
Before I embarked on my own bike trips, I dreamed a lot about them—from the Atacama to the Gobi, along the Mekong, and not forgetting France. And now, these 130 pages every quarter keep those dreamy vibes alive through stories written in the most beautiful prose.
I’ll stop here because it might sound like I’m advertising, but if you don’t know *200*, I invite you to discover it. It’ll give you wings for the most incredible challenges or simply reinforce your desire for slow rides with your eyes open to others and nature.
A little news to wrap up: Axel Carion and a friend just broke the record for crossing South America from Colombia to Ushuaia in 59 days. On its own, that doesn’t mean much, but I can’t help it—it makes me dream. You should see how he talks about it, the flashes of that wild nature he’s stored away: a snowstorm at Paso Jama and the surreal sight of the suddenly snow-covered Licancabur!
Luc
PS: The magazine is called *200* because a day’s ride starts at 200 km—well, I’ve never done a ride like that since my longest was 167 km (with 18 kg of luggage, mind you), but why not one day? The magazine will explain how to tackle your first 200, and then the question in conclusion: when will you do your first 300?😏
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hello,
We’d like to go on a 3- to 4-month bike trip starting in December, crossing from Assam (northeast India) to New Delhi via Nepal.
Are there routes with light traffic along the Brahmaputra and through Nepal?
We’re also looking for any info on accommodations, wild camping, local interactions, etc.
Thanks,
Michel
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
