Visiting Sumba in Indonesia

Thanks for this info—those photos confirm we should avoid setting foot in the water... I’ve often fantasized about an accident in the open sea, but never on a river 😕. Goes to show! Thanks for the info and for the photos 😉

John is a guide and really nice; you can reach him at the hotel ??? in Waingapu. For me, there are no safety issues in Sumba. You can also ask David, a guide in eastern Sumba—I really liked David.

It's sweet of you to say thanks, but if you read my posts carefully, you'll see that once again, my messages are off-topic... the crocs in question were caught in West Kalimantan, not Sumba... That said, you can find these critters in Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Papua... so it's true that adventurous backpackers should be careful and ask locals for advice before swimming just anywhere!

No! No! I did read that it was about Borneo! The Indonesian part ;) But it applies to the places you mentioned too! So I’m taking that into account— that’s what I meant in my post!! See you later

P.S. So, about Sumba... nope ;) I never swim in rivers or streams because I’m afraid of amoebas or other invisible critters that, once they get to know you, tend not to let go!!!

I’m supposed to go to Sumba with a friend... so I’ll ask you for more info later—is that OK?

Hey Eliade😏

I hope you don’t mind me jumping into the Sumba discussion. Since you’re planning to go, feel free to reach out—I’ve been there twice already, though I’m far from knowing it well.

As a starting point, I’ve mostly explored the western part but haven’t ventured much toward the east yet. I’m heading back in April, and once again, I’ll lace up my "wind soles." Who knows where they’ll take me this time?

Anyway, I can share the info and experiences from my all-too-brief travels.

See you around,

Tétrodon😇

I’ve never been to Sumba! Or Bali! Or Sulawesi! Or Flores! Or the Moluccas!... I’ve got some serious gaps!.. On the other hand, I’ve never caught anything from swimming in rivers, and yet, I can’t stop doing it!

hi,

I’m heading to Sumba this coming July and I’d love any tips. Accommodation, contacts, you name it. After Sumba, if I manage to tear myself away, I’d like to head toward Ende on Flores. Thanks for opening your treasure trove for me! 🙂

hi! I’m planning a trip to Sumba, starting from Bali and then heading to Flores as a next stop. My questions: 1. To get from Bali to Sumba, what’s the best route—by plane and/or ferry? 2. To go from Sumba to Flores, what’s the best route?

Or is it better to do the reverse: Denpasar-Flores, then Flores-Sumba?

How much time do you recommend spending on Sumba? I’ve heard there aren’t many guests—is that true? Where can I find info on this—addresses, prices, etc.? And how do you get around if you don’t have a "wind demon" or "mud boots"?!

I’m planning this for either July or August. Thanks, and see you around!

Hi there,

Regarding the order between the islands, I can't answer that since I haven't been to Flores yet. With limited time, I've always flown from Denpasar to Sumba (about 1 hour 10 minutes with Merpati, the round-trip price is roughly 70 €).

It's true that in Sumba, there aren't tons of guesthouses since tourism here is still in its early stages, but that's part of the island's charm. To find addresses, I recommend the Lonely Planet guide if you understand English—it has a few pages on Sumba that are pretty interesting. Otherwise, there's another book whose name I'll give you when I return to France since I'm currently traveling around Sumba right now. This one is written in French.

Ten days in Sumba will already give you a good introduction. Of course, more time is always better, as everywhere. How much time do you have?

When I get back, I can give you very precise info since I'm gathering details right now and I'm not yet overwhelmed!

See you soon!

Tetrodon

a 10/15-day trip... then we plan to head to Flores and Ende before returning home!! How far in advance should I arrive in Bali to book the Merpati flight from Denpasar to Sumba? I’ll be coming straight from Kuala Lumpur to Denpasar after a stay in either Myanmar, Cambodia, or both—I’ve planned three months of traveling! Thanks for the friendly tips... See you later!

hi,

I’ve never bought my ticket on-site but always from France through the Travelindo agency (no issues so far—they’re even reliable, responsive, and professional, in short). > You can check their site: www.travelindo.com.

It’s wiser this way because the Denpasar-Sumba route isn’t daily.

Do you need my local contacts? They’re lovely people who’ll take great care of you—just mention my name, no problem. The one in West Sumba (Waikabubak) might even host you if you don’t mind roughing it (no electricity, outdoor toilets and washing).

tetrodon😏

Thanks 😉 I’ll check the site for the Denpasar-Sumba ticket, then I’ll get back in touch...

Hi Tetrodon,

If possible, I’d love to get some of your tips. I’ll be in Sumba in July ’09. I’m planning to fly from Denpasar to Waingapu and then from Waingapu to Maumere some time after we arrive (how long depends on the situation there, transport options, etc.). We’re more interested in human connections than staying in hotels the whole time. Thanks!

I'm heading to Indonesia for 4 weeks, leaving on July 8th. I'd like to visit Sumba. Can you recommend other islands that are just as culturally rich but less touristy? What should I see in 4 weeks? Bali, Lombok, Flores, Sumba? Is it too short to also visit the Celebes Islands?

I think you have some places to stay in Sumba. I'd love to hear them! 🙂 Thanks in advance. Clarisse

Hi Tetrodon, did you end up going from Flores to Sumba in April 2009 after all? I’m getting lost in the 30-odd different messages... and I can’t find a follow-up to your post. I’m worried: Lollodesiles had quite a few issues with the boats, and I’ve read that the planes are often unreliable—delays, cancellations due to lack of passengers, etc. I’m planning Labuanbajo/Waikelo in mid-June (so not peak season yet) by a boat that, according to LP, does the loop twice a week via Waikelo and ends up in Sape. Have you tried this route, or do you have more precise info on the subject?

For flights, I’ve been trying for days to get info from the Merpati website with no luck—I keep going in circles, and the "contact us" link just says "under construction"!!! Help, please!

To take advantage of your kindness and experience, if you have any more recent info on the prices of guesthouses or hotels in Flores and Sumba, or any tips on ikats, I’d love to hear them! I’m starting to worry—I’ve only planned 3 weeks for Flores and Sumba, and the connections seem to take a lot of time and energy... and I’m leaving in 3 weeks!

Hi there,

No, I haven’t tried the ferry connection between Flores and Sumba. Actually, I didn’t make it to Flores and spent a lot of time on Sumba instead.

I can only share prices for guesthouses on Sumba, which aren’t very numerous. You’ll need to pick a strategic base and then explore from there for the day.

In the eastern part, the main town is Waingapu (where there’s an airport). The only place I know there is Sandle Wood Hotel. The most budget-friendly rooms (no mandi inside—you have to use the one in the hallway) cost 75,000 rupiahs, about 6 €, while rooms with a private mandi are 100,000 rupiahs. The staff is friendly, and the place is clean.

From Waingapu, you can head to the coast (by motorbike or local bus) to Kallalah Beach. There’s an Australian-run accommodation there. It’s a great spot to unwind, but the price might be a dealbreaker: full board is 300,000 rupiahs per person, around 25 €, which could be steep for tight budgets. From what I’ve heard (though I haven’t been yet), Tarimbang Beach in the central part of the island is more affordable. It’s reachable from Waingapu by truck, but the road is rough, and the trip takes 5-6 hours.

In the western part, the main town is Waikabubak. I’ve tried two hotels there: Aloha Hotel and Menandang Hotel. I prefer the latter—it’s more welcoming with an inner garden. From memory, both cost the same, around 120,000 rupiahs per person. Given the limited hotel options, Sumba is a bit pricier than other places, and there’s not much range in prices.

For the western coast, the only spot I know is Pantai Rua, where I stayed in a beach hut that wasn’t finished two years ago. Full board was about 100,000 rupiahs, if I recall correctly. There are also luxury resorts like Nihiwatu, where wealthy travelers stay. Given the sky-high prices, I didn’t even consider it.

Here’s a quick rundown of practical info. If you’d like more details, feel free to reach out again. Anyway, Sumba deserves at least two weeks to explore. It’s an island that’s stayed very off-the-beaten-path, which makes it incredibly authentic. The culture is fascinating, there’s a national park worth visiting, and the famous *pasola* (equestrian tournaments) only happen in February and March. I saw the one in Lemboya last February—it’s truly unique! I don’t think you’ll find anything like it anywhere else in the world in the 21st century.

Tetrodon😏

Hey! You mentioned a ferry from Denpasar to Sumba in one of your posts—do you have any more info on that route????? I'm interested in this option since I'll be arriving in Bali soon, then Lombok and Sumba if I can find an affordable way to get there. Thanks!

It's the AWU

Check the schedule on the Pelni website.

The next one should be leaving on Friday, February 24th at 1:00 AM and arriving in Waingapu on Saturday, February 25th at 6:00 PM.

Double-check and triple-check!

okay, thanks for the link! I’ll check it out more closely. You said the next one leaves on the 24th at 1 AM (lol, I land in Bali on the 24th around 11:30 PM!!! Too late!!!! Anyway, I’ll look at the schedules and see what I end up doing... bye, terima kasih

Hi! Another quick question—do you have any info on the conditions in economy class for this route? I’m traveling with my wife and our 7-month-old baby... and I think the class above is too expensive. Are the conditions much better in that class, by the way? Private cabin or not? Thanks!