Bonjour, je suis partie moi même en Chine en 2015, j'avais fait le guangxi seul et le guizhou avec un guide...j'avais bien préparer ma feuille de routes avec les noms des villes en caractères chinois pour demander aux gens, ça m'a aidé deux fois tout de même pour prendre le bon bus.
Cette fois j'aimerais tenter l'aventure sans guide...
Alors je compte passer la 1er semaine sur Pékin puis filer en vol interne à Kunming et visiter donc une partie du Yunnan sur deux semaines:
J'ai mes dates:
9 septembre au 16 sept > Semaine 1> Pekin et muraille
16 sept > Pékin > KUNMING
17sept : KUNMING > YUANYANG
18 sept : YUANYANG / village de Tuanshan , JIANSHUI
19 sept : Route vers ZHONGDIAN
20 sept : ZHONGDIAN
21 sept : ZHONGDIAN > LIJIANG
22 sept : LIJIANG
23 sept : LIJIANG
24 sept : Route vers JIANCHUAN
25 sept: JIANCHUAN
26 sept : route vers SHAXI
27 sept : SHAXI
28 sept : SHAXI > KUNMING
29 sept : KUNMING > pekin
30 sept : vol retour depuis pekin ( je part juste avant la golden week )
Cela vous semble t'il jouable? En timing je pense oui, par contre pour organiser ça seul, prendre les transports moi même entre ces villes et villages?
Ou-puis-je trouver des informations concernant les transports entre ces villes? Finalement ca fait que 4 stops, je m'inquiàte moins pour trouver mon chemin et des transports pour filer vers Lijiang depuis Zhongdian, par contre pour aller à Jianchuan et Shaxi en bus, j'ai un peu plus de doutes...je ne parle bien sur pas Chinois.😎
J'ai changé quelques trucs et en lisant les choses pas très jolies sur Lijiang, je me demande si je vais pas remplacer ceci par Baisha ou un autre village dans les alentours.
9 septembre au 16 sept > Semaine 1> Pekin et muraille
16 sept > Pékin > KUNMING
17sept : KUNMING > YUANYANG / Xinjie
18 sept : YUANYANG / Xinjie village de Tuanshan , JIANSHUI
19 sept : JIANSHUI
20 sept : JIANSHUI > KUNMING ( nuit a Kunming ? )
21 sept : KUNMING > LIJIANG ( trouver un plan B )
22 sept : BAISHA ou Yuhu ( outrouver un plan B )
23 sept : BAISHA ou Yuhu ( ou trouver un plan B )
24 sept : Route vers JIANCHUAN
25 sept: JIANCHUAN
26 sept : route vers SHAXI
27 sept : SHAXI
28 sept : SHAXI > KUNMING
29 sept : KUNMING > pekin
30 sept : vol retour depuis pekin ( je part juste avant la golden week )
Est-ce mieux peut être de rester une journée de plus dans la région de Jiangshui?
Pour les transports, j'ai trouvé de Kunming à Yunyang en bus...
De Yunyang - Xinjie vers Jianshui je suppose qu'il y a des bus à la station de Xinjie .
Bonjour. Mon mari et moi sommes actuellement au Yunnan ( 26 jours sur place; entrée terrestre par le Laos et sortie prévue par Hanoi). Ce n'est pas la première fois que nous allons en Chine et nous sommes de vieux baroudeurs mais nous ne parlons pas du tout le chinois. Nous nous débrouillons, en dépensant de l'énergie et nous arrivons toujours à prendre les bons bus ou vans ou trains (nettement moins chers que le bus) et descendre là où il faut. Avoir des noms écrits en chinois ( sur lonely planet ou par les tenanciers de guest houses compétents) aide assurément. Si vous n'allez pas jusqu'au terminus, bien faire écrire le nom de l'arrêt et le montrer au chauffeur. Pratiquement personne ne parle l'anglais, il est donc judicieux d'avoir une guest house anglophone ( infos, numéros et emplacement des bus etc...)
Nous avons pris des trains de Jianshui à Dali. Il n'y avait plus de places assises ou couchées dans le train direct, on a donc pris 2 trains dont un couchettes. Il aurait fallu réserver plus tôt, nous nous sommes pointés à la gare très éloignée le jour même.
Les jeunes utilisent l'appli Maps me, et je m'y suis mise; très utile pour se repérer si on est un peu perdu en ville ou si on cherche désespérement son hôtel.
Concernant Lijiang, j'avais aussi lu des choses épouvantables. je pense que l'affluence est en haute saison; mi mars, il n'y avait pas grand monde et à 8h le matin, personne. C'est une très jolie ville ( patrimoine mondial) et ce serait dommage de ne pas la voir. Il y avait beaucoup plus de monde à Dali.
Le village de Baisha est authentique et très paisible ( Shuhé est trop artificiel avec des construction faussement anciennes).
Shaxi comporte un séduisant petit quartier ancien mais son marché du vendredi ne vaut pas le détour. Celui de Lijiang est beaucoup plus intéressant.
Si vous souhaitez d'autres détails ou des noms de guest houses très correctes ( bon rapport qualité prix, entre 15 et 20 euros la double mais il y a aussi des dortoirs), je peux vous les donner; Nous sommes actuellement dans les Gorges du Saut du Tigre. Nous avons commencé par Jinhong puis Yuanyang ( rizières en eau sublimes mais gare au brouillard), Jianshui et Tuanshan, Dali et Xizhou( pas vital), Shaxi, Lijiang, Gorges du Tigre. Puis ce sera Shangrila et Dequin, et retour avec Kunming puis Heijing puis sud vers Hekouet passage au Vietnam.
Merci pour ces détails , je vais me pencher sur la suite de mon organisation ce week end . 😉
Vos informations sont précieuses et surtout à jour. 😉
Si vous n'allez pas jusqu'au terminus, bien faire écrire le nom de l'arrêt et le montrer au chauffeur. Pratiquement personne ne parle l'anglais, il est donc judicieux d'avoir une guest house anglophone (infos, numéros et emplacement des bus etc...) Pratiquement personne ne parle l'anglais, il est donc judicieux d'avoir une guest house anglophone (infos, numéros et emplacement des bus etc...)
En effet, j'avais fait ça en 2015 dans le Guangxi, je m'en suis sortie, mais surtout j'avais les numéros de bus et les noms des villes ainsi que les directions sur une feuille en signe chinois...histoire de me faire comprendre rapidement vue que je ne parle pas un mot de Chinois non plus.
Comment trouvez vous cette partie de la Chine? sympa n'est ce pas? Bonne route!
Il y a de jolies choses à voir bien sûr mais peu de relations humaines comme on peut en avoir dans beaucoup de pays d'Asie. Les routes sont souvent très poussiéreuses à cause des chantiers pharaoniques et l'architecture des villes modernes est souvent sans charme et pompeuse. Les rizières en terrasses en eau sont merveilleuses mais prévoir un jour supplémentaire en cas de brouillard, fréquent. Nous avons croisé un jeune couple qui est reparti sans rien voir. Notre programme en 26 jours pourrait être fait en moins si on enchaine les visites et les transports. Nous rentrons mi avril et si vous le souhaitez je pourrai vous indiquer les numeros de bus et les lieux quand votre programme sera à jour.
Savez vous quelle station , du moins ou se trouve la station de bus à Kunming pour se rendre Jianshui-Xinjie ?
Apparemment il faut prendre un bus depuis Kunming pour Nansha / 4h30 de routes ) puis changer à Nansha.
Nous avons pris des trains de Jianshui à Dali. Il n'y avait plus de places assises ou couchées dans le train direct, on a donc pris 2 trains dont un couchettes. Il aurait fallu réserver plus tôt, nous nous sommes pointés à la gare très éloignée le jour même.
Pour repartir de Yuanyang-Jiangshui vers Dali donc il y a une gare à Jianshui , parfait...la durée de trajet est longue? Je réserverais à l'avance mon trajet pour ces parcours alors. 😉
Si vous regardez une carte, vous verrez que Jianshui se trouve au sud de Kunming et Yuanyang encore plus au sud. Dali est au nord-ouest de Kunming. Ma conclusion est que je repasserais par Kunming car ces sont les transports les plus rapides. Il y a grandes zones montagneuses et j'ai appris lors de voyages en régions montagneuses en Europe que le chemin le plus court sur une carte est rarement le chemin le plus rapide.
J'aimais mieux votre premier plan mais ça c'est un choix personnel.
La gare de Janshui est vraiment éloignée de la ville mais il y a un bus qui y va de la porte nord, une fois franchie la porte vers l'exterieur de la vieille ville , le 919, 2 yans
Au même rond point, minibus jaune 5y pour Tuanshan.
Pour Dali il y a un train de nuit qui part de Jianshui à 19h37et arrive à 7h 35. Il n'y avait plus de places que debout alors nous avons pris un train plus tôt pour Kunming et attendu à la gare le train couchette partant de kunming à 22h14 et arrivant à Dali à 5h34. 269 y pour 2 , total depuis Jianshui.
A l'aller pour Yuanyang sommes arrivés du sud donc pas d'info depuis Kunming. Mais de toute façon il faut passer par Nansha qui est une ville nouvelle et de là négocier un transport pour les rizières, et c'est loin. Je recommende le village de Duoyishu avec la chaleureuse guest house timeless. Vous êtes aux pieds des rizières avec vue gratuite ( lever soleil...éventuel...superbe). Bonnes infos, jours de marché..
Nous venons d'arriver à Kunming car pas visité à l'aller) par un bus couchette ( Tb) depuis l'extrème nord, Deqin. si j'ai des infos interessantes je les signalerai.
Vous ne comptez pas aller jusque là d'après votre planning. A savoir toutefois que si Shangrila a entièrement reconstruit sa " vieille ville" après un incendiie et pour nous n'a que peu de charme ( le grand monastère aux alentours est intéressant mais ne vaut pas et de loin ceux du Laddakh, Zanskar et Tibet), la route pour Deqin (4h) est somptueuse et désolée. Col à plus de 4200m et hauts sommets. Ça vaut le voyage. De là, Felai Si à 10 km, juste face aux montagnes sacrées dont le Kawagebo à 6740m. Superbe par temps dégagé. Vraiment à envisager! Bus direct Deqin-kunming. Départ (1 jour sur 2 ) à 14h arrivée à kunming à 7h15 le lendemain matin. 258 yans. Confortable. Depuis cette gare routière ouest vers gare de trains ( pour acheter nos billets pour Hekou) bus 80. 1 y
Depuis la gare de trains de kunming le bus 2 se dirige vers le green lake. ( on est descendus en route pour rejoindre Upland international youth hostel. Dortoirs mixtes de 6 personnes: 50Y par pers. Chambres chères.
A suivre!
Oubli, réponse à une précédente question:
- de Xinjie il y a un bus vers midi 1/2 pour Jianshui ( peut-être d'autres?) En fait on paie 50y mais on nous fait changer bus en route, avec un peu d'attente. Le trajet est donc assz long. Idem pour autres voyageurs rencontrés. Attention de ne pas mettre trop peu de temps pour les rizières, il y a différents lieux et points de vue. Et ça prend du temps . Plateformes payantes 100y mais on peut y échapper. Nous en avons fait plusieurs, sans payer ( trop cher).
-Shaxi, beaucoup de charme, est assez vite vu car le quartier n'est pas grand et on peut éventuellement partir ailleurs le même jour si on est pressé.
-Jianshui-Tuanshan: au retour s'arrêter au pont du double dragon ( le chauffeur du van connait) marcher 2 minutes, retour Jianshui 3y.
Jianshui: Typha youth hostel, maison chinoise agréable, personnel sympatique: à 2 pas du temple de Confucius. A voir ainsi que la demeure de la famille Zhu, magnifique. Rues animées.
bonsoir,
personnellement j'enlèverais 2 jours à Pékin et alentours pour les rajouter à Yuanyang .
Je trouve un peu dommage de passer si peu de temps dans cet endroit extraordinaire.
En plus des rizières (incontournables ), il faut prendre le temps de déambuler dans les marchés animant les ruelles.
Tout à fait d'accord sur la région des rizières et les marchés. Celui de Niujiaozhai est très interessant avec ses cantines enfumées et ses costumes ethniques. À Shen Cun, venus pour un autre marché, sommes tombés sur une cérémonie funéraire avec dragons, cortèges, chants, danses et banquet pantagruélique . Avoir un peu de temps permet des rencontres.
Schischi Merci de prendre le temps d'écrire tout ces détails, ja'i acheté le guide du routard ( n'en déplaise à certains sur le forum 😛 ) aussi pour avoir les noms des bus, numéros mais vos informations sont complémentaires et vont m'aider à m'organiser.😉
bonsoir, personnellement j'enlèverais 2 jours à Pékin et alentours pour les rajouter à Yuanyang. Je trouve un peu dommage de passer si peu de temps dans cet endroit extraordinaire.
En effet, je vais certainement arriver plus tôt à Kumning pour passer plus de temps à Yuangyang, surtout que je me rend compte que la distance entre Kumning et faire l'aller retour pour deux jours me semble très très juste... j'aime plutot me poser un moment dans les lieux visités.
Vos photos me rappelle certaines régions visitées en 2015 dans le Guizhou dans les montagnes, j'avais vue des marchés locaux avec les ethnies Yi, Dong et Miao, l'un de mes meilleurs souvenirs en Chine d'ailleurs 😉...il y a aussi comme une influence venant d'Asie du-sud est dans vos photos, c'est vrai que les frontières Birmanes et Laotiennes ne sont plus très loin de là...
Essayez aussi de voir si vous ne pouvez pas shunter le stop à kunming après Shaxi. Il y a toujours des trains nuit ou bus couchettes pour les grandes distances. Peut-'être pourriez-vous ainsi filer directement de Shaxi à Lijiang la nuit ou enchainer les transports et gagner du temps. Vous passez par Kunming à l'aller et au retour, ça suffit!
Je vous rappelle que Shaxi et Baisha, aussi intéressants soient-ils sont vite vus car petits. En repartir le même jour est tout à fait faisable si on dispose de peu de temps.
Et le temps gagné me permettrait de faire la route jusqu'à Deqin-Felai Si.
Mais à chacun son voyage et ses choix, bonne préparation.
Bonjour,
La province de Yunnan est très belle, elle est la région où les 53 des 56 éthnies chinoises habitent.
Ce circuit est intéressant, assez complet et faisable.
Il faut justement faire une bonne préparation.
Bon voyage.
Erreur que vous rectifierez bien sûr..je voulais parler de votre trajet Jianshui-Lijiang et j'ai écrit Shaxi!
En effet car le retour par Kumning me semble long et donc épuisant...si je repasse par Kumning en bus, l'idée serait de prendre un vol depuis Kuming le lendemain mais bon ca fait quand même un stop dans cette ville 🤪
Je vais effectivement regarder pour l'option du train.
Personnellement j'enlèverais 2 jours à Pékin et alentours pour les rajouter à Yuanyang.
Je sais, mais je ne vais peut être pas pousser jusque Yuanyang finalement et me contenter de Jianshui ( plus longtemps et qui est moins loin de Kumning - 3 heures de bus) puis repartir de là directement pour aller vers Dali et Lijiang en train, on ne peut pas tout voir et le trajet jusque Yuanyang depuis Kumning aller retour est quand même super long ( 7 heures en moyenne en bus pour l'aller ! ) et sur un voyage sur trois semaines, j'essais quand même de limiter le temps passer dans les transports.
Faut t'il réserver les hotels et guesthouses dans le Yunnan en septembre?
Car j'aimerais éventuellement improviser sur place selon la météo et les visites.
J'ai jamais réservé mes nuits d'hôtel en Chine. A part les premières nuits à l'arrivée mais une fois sur place je préfère laisser parler mon sens du feng shui et me trouver moi-même mes hôtels. Il y en a tellement que c'est préférable de pouvoir choisir sur place. Jamais rencontré de (gros) problèmes pour avoir une chambre (sauf dans le Gansu).
Rien n'empêche d'utiliser sur place, la veille, les sites de réservation tel que ctrip.com (par exemple) pour réserver une chambre pour le lendemain.
Bon séjour là-bas.
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
Afin de finaliser mon voyage de 3 semaines au Yunnan, j'ai besoin de vos lumières! (3-21 aout, en mode "routarde") Attention post LONG! I/ ITINÉRAIRE Selon vos…
Quelques mots sur la boucle que j'ai effectuée en vélo dans le Yunnan. Entrée et sortie Je suis entré en Chine par le poste frontière sino-vietnamien Lào Cai /…
Nous avons un projet de 4 semaines en mars, avez vous un retour sur une des ces trois regions au mois de mars, meteo tarif et autres nous avons l'habitude en…
Je planifie un voyage de deux semaines en août / septembre 2018 et j'ai besoin de quelques conseils avisés. Nous arrivons à Kunming et prévoyons de monter…
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
Hi everyone,
To simplify logistics, I'm considering renting a car for 5/6 days in the Japanese Alps before heading to Kyoto solo.
Is driving difficult or even risky in this region?
Thanks for your feedback!
Tara
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I saw there are several "authentic" villages about 90/100 km from Beijing.
Including: Lingshui, Liuliqu, Sangyu, Miaoying, and Cuandixia.
Has anyone visited any of them? I was thinking of choosing Cuandixia—what do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone!
It seems there’s a flea market in Tianjin that’s way more interesting than the one in Beijing. I’ve been searching online but can’t find the right one… The one I’m looking for is called gu wan shi chang (my PC won’t display the Chinese characters…). Does anyone have the address and has anyone been there before? The one in Beijing has lost a lot of its charm over the past 10 years, so I wanted to find another. Thanks!
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS.
Could you recommend something?
hi there
I’m planning a trip in September—here’s my rough itinerary. What do you think? Is it easy to rent a car to get around between my stops? Thanks so much!
Philippe
StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—
We’re planning a 17-day trip to South Korea in October 2026 with my husband and our daughters, who’ll be 9 years old.
I’d love to get your thoughts on our draft itinerary.
First, some key details:
1/ Jeju Island is a must for us. I’ve personally dreamed of going there for years after reading a novel about it.
2/ Our girls are used to road-trip style travel since they were born, so this kind of trip won’t be an issue for them.
3/ We plan to travel by train, except on Jeju where we’ll rent a car (we already have an international driver’s permit).
Itinerary:
Seoul: 1 arrival day at 10 AM + 4 full days
Gyeongju: 2 days
Busan: 3 days
Jeju: 4 days
Seoul: 2 days
Hi there,
My girlfriend (23) and I (24) are heading to Japan for the first time from October 20th to November 6th. Here’s our itinerary:
6 nights in Tokyo
1 night in Hakone (ryokan already booked)
4 nights in Kyoto (hotel already booked)
2 nights in Osaka
4 nights back in Tokyo
I’d like to book hotels for Tokyo (both stays) and Osaka, but I’ve gotten so many different recommendations.
I’ve read that Shinjuku is the place to be for its huge hub, accessibility, and things to do, but I’ve also heard about Shibuya, Asakusa, and Ueno.
I’ve looked at hotels, and first off, I’m surprised by the prices compared to what I’ve seen on forums (I guess inflation’s hit here too… and maybe I’m late to the booking game?). I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the options.
For our first stay in Tokyo, I’d prefer a hotel (not a residence or Airbnb) since we’ll be arriving at night, and it’s our first time in Japan. It’d be great to have a place with a reception, staff who speak at least a little English, and can give us some guidance. For the second stay, we could consider other options if it’s better.
Budget-wise, we can go up to 150–180 € per night, but if we can save some money to spend elsewhere, that’d be amazing!
I’m open to all recommendations, hotel suggestions, or any other tips for Tokyo (first stay), Osaka, and Tokyo (second stay).
Hi there,
I’m getting ready for a classic tourist trip to China in May 2026.
The "Terres Lointaines" itinerary looks good to me, and the price is interesting.
Has anyone traveled with them before? Any feedback?
Is there a better option?
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences on this!
Michel
I just booked my hotel in Seoul—it’ll be near Unhyeongung, on Samil-Daero 30-Gil—and I’m wondering if there’s public transport from the airport to this address (bus or subway)? If not, what’s the taxi fare? I read it’s around 50 or 60 €.
I’m traveling to Japan with a young adult with autism (ASD) from July 28 to August 8, following a pretty classic route: Osaka, Hiroshima, Kyoto, and Tokyo. I’m looking for a schedule of the most spectacular fireworks displays during that time. So far, the dates for the major *hanabi* events aren’t available online yet. If anyone has them, I’d really appreciate it if you could share!
We’ll be doing a self-drive trip using public transport in May 2026.
On Day 6, we’ll arrive in Hakone by train from Tokyo in late morning. We’ll spend the night in Hakone before heading to Kyoto.
The main goal of this stop is clearly the view (no hiking) of Mount Fuji, not so much exploring Hakone, where the sights seem limited.
I’ve read on the forum that the view is great from Gotemba, but it also takes a good hour by bus to get there. And, apart from that view, there’s nothing else to see in Gotemba!
So, I’m not sure what to choose. Any thoughts? Or alternatives to suggest?
Maybe some spots in Hakone or Gotemba for a great view?