Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Alright, we’re waiting for you here! Just so you know, while you were getting all emotional reading the intro to this adventure, we’ve already set foot in Sri Lanka! I’ll spare you the sticky tropical hug at the plane exit, the little carousel spin for our backpacks, the short queue for a stamp on our passports, exchanging our euros for Sri Lankan rupees, buying a SIM card to send updates to my sweetheart back home—so we can jump right to the long-awaited moment of our trio reunion. No, my brother didn’t surprise us by joining against our will. I’m talking about my dad, me, and our super three-wheeler! Video to pass the test, express driving lesson in English, and voilà—my Sri Lankan driver’s license is mine! Note to self: Add this diploma to my CV... So here we are, let loose among the twenty-two million people in this country! Here, we drive on the left. Here, traffic lights are placed *after* the intersection. Here, you honk to exist. Here, you avoid elephants crossing the road. Here, you weave between elephant droppings littering the pavement. Here, you forget your bearings—and, incidentally, Western road rules. If you’ve got all that down, everything should go smoothly...
"Dad, do you want to try?...
- Uh, no, not right now..."
Despite the apparent chaos ruling the first few kilometers, something here stands out. A kind of unlikely harmony. Everyone honks, yes—but with kindness. Everyone brushes past each other, yes—but without getting angry. Everyone crosses paths, yes—but without colliding. And in the middle of this joyful organized mess, Tukif, our wobbly red tuk-tuk, naturally finds its place. After a few kilometers, the tension eases a bit, my hands on the handlebars relax, my reflexes settle in, and my eyes finally start taking in the first landscapes rolling by. Welcome to Sri Lanka! "Yeah man, we’re here, straddling our flying tin can!"
Alright, twenty hours of travel, four and a half hours of jet lag, and heat like a winter coat in the middle of summer as a welcome-flower lei! You can easily guess that this first day is officially a UNESCO World Heritage rest day. Spoiler: No, I’m kidding! Even with a 72-year-old relic on board, a day of adventure is precious! So enough envy—this day is put to good use like its little sisters: First, drive for three and a half hours to our first program spot, then pin it to our trophy board! And this spot, brace yourself—we’re starting with a heavy hitter! According to some experts, it might even be the most beautiful temple in Sri Lanka: The Dambulla Caves, a refuge for fourteen years for King Vattagamani Abhaya (exiled from his throne in the 1st century BCE), a complex of cave temples also known as the Golden Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991... There’s the pedigree of the place...
With its five funerary caves turned into sanctuaries, over 150 Buddha statues immortalized in every pose, and colorful murals, the peaceful vibe of the place strangely reminds me of Luxor’s Valley of the Kings. In other words, it’s a must-see!
Okay, one last tuk-tuk ride and that wraps up our first day with our arrival at the Segiriya guesthouse. I’ve finished my rambling, but are there any questions from the audience?
"Yes, front row for Voyage-Forum: Are there still visible traces of the cyclone?
- Well, not really! From what we’ve seen on this first day of exploring, the rivers have returned to their beds, and life seems to have already bounced back...
- What about tuk-tuk driving—how do you find it?
- Driving itself in Sri Lanka doesn’t seem too overwhelming, especially after our scooter trip across Java with Flo last summer. That said, Tukif the tuk-tuk is showing some signs of clutch weakness. To be continued...
- And finally, what’s your first impression of the Sri Lankans?
- Good! Maybe a little less smiley and approachable at first than the Indonesians we met two months ago, but the first interactions have been generous. Generous in the sense that our first stop at a roadside stall to buy bananas turned into a gift... Then we were offered a drink at a guesthouse we accidentally walked into..."
Anyway, we’re gonna love it here, Brenda!
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Awesome, there's still room in the tuk-tuk... I'm in!
PS: One day, in a burst of optimistic madness, five of us adults (all over 70) squeezed into a tuk-tuk in Bangkok to go to a restaurant. Double trouble: first, crammed inside the vehicle where you have to fold yourself into a pretzel just to sit on someone’s lap because of the super-low ceiling, and then stuck in Bangkok’s evening traffic jams. We could barely unfold ourselves to get out! If we’d seen our grandkids in that situation, we’d have said they were being reckless, especially abroad!
Hey Franck,
I’m gonna relive this story with pleasure, even if it’s after the fact. This time, it’ll be easier to follow along since I’ve already saved all your spots on maps.me !
Two French lads, 8,500 kilometers from their burrow on an island eight times the size of Corsica, had set their minds on exploring this patch of land astride "Tukif," their tuk-tuk. Their goal? To bring back memories from each of the iconic spots this Sri Lanka has to offer. Speaking of which, when someone mentions Sri Lanka to you—besides knowing two French guys who decided to explore it on a tuk-tuk—what comes to mind? Nothing? Well, the two things that *should* pop into your head are the cultural triangle and elephants. And lucky for us, those are exactly the two postcard images that’ll shape our day today. Come on, let me tell you all about it...
First up, the triangle... Nestled between the cities of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and Kandy, it’s packed with ancient sites, temples, and fascinating spots like the Dambulla Caves, the Lion Rock of Sigiriya, or the former capital Anuradhapura. We checked out Dambulla yesterday. Anuradhapura’s for tomorrow. That leaves Lion Rock—now’s the time!
Perched nearly 200 meters above the plain, Lion Rock is arguably Sri Lanka’s most iconic site. And when it comes to visiting, there are two schools of thought. There are those who climb it without being able to take it all in, lacking perspective... And then there are those who hike up Pidurangala Rock right across from it to soak in the whole panorama with Lion Rock smack in the middle. We’re team two! Not only does it let you step off the beaten path and get an unbeatable view of the thing, but it also saves you from calling your banker to take out yet another consumer loan. The tourist cash cows are milked for $36 to sweat their way up Lion Rock, while we only pay 3 for Pidurangala.
Anyway, all this to say we started our climb up Pidurangala Rock in the pitch-black night, hoping to catch the sun god’s morning wake-up call. 200, 360, 5, 9. Here are the numbers to remember for Pidurangala Rock. Meters to climb to try and touch the sky, degrees of horizon to embrace the world, hours to kick off the quest... and the level of pure joy on the Richter scale! There you have it for the stats.
As the first light of day broke, we discovered the jungle below us draped in a veil of mist. Magical. From that fleeting cloud emerged Lion Rock, looking like it was floating in front of us like a "castle in the sky." *Re*-magical. It was barely past eight when our hosts served us a hearty breakfast, and the day was already a success!
But don’t worry, we’ll still make the most of the time we have left to pack in even more. First stop: the Dambulla wholesale fruit and vegetable market, where the stars strut proudly on their red carpet. Bunches of bananas to make you smile, crates of sun-drenched mangoes, piles of fragrant pineapples... not to mention the less glamorous supporting actors of the pantry—sacks of onions and white cabbages unloaded by smiling Sri Lankans paid by the task. The hustle, the smells, the raw, authentic life. Everything I love!
After a little boat ride for fruits and vegetables, we then dive into the animal theme: Here we are now in the back of a convertible Jeep, hair in the wind, for a safari in Urulu Eco Park! Foxes, peacocks, monitor lizards, gazelles, black monkeys, wild buffaloes... A very pretty "trophy" list, sure, but let's be honest, we didn't come for these jungle extras. We want the big stuff, the heavy hitters, the pachydermally iconic... We want to spot the Sri Lankan elephant! And the Sri Lankan elephant, we can tell you right away that we’re blessed by lady luck because they’re everywhere! Big ones, little ones, moms, babies, glimpses from afar, close-up admiration... and even *very* close-up... Wow!!!
To wrap up this adventure, a Sri Lankan beer in hand, as cool as the morning mist over the jungle, we toast to our elephantine luck today... and also to the gargantuan meal prepared by our hosts! Sri Lanka sure knows how to spoil us...
Thanks for joining me on these new adventures! To answer your two questions: no, there’s only one size of tuk-tuk, and the other country is Cambodia! Happy reading! ... and I’ve got more trips to post!
Are you a die-hard history buff in general and eager to learn more about Sri Lanka’s past in particular? Do you want to immerse yourself in the fervor of local Buddhism? Then look no further—Anuradhapura is just waiting for your beautiful eyes to reveal itself! But hey, if you can’t be bothered to come all the way here, there’s always the ultimate solution: read my ramblings from today’s adventure, and that’ll do the trick! Here we go...
Once the capital of the kingdom, the sacred city of Anuradhapura is teeming with historical ruins scattered across a vast park. Still aboard our trusty Tukif the tuk-tuk, we’ll be zipping together from majestic stupas to sacred temples in search of spirituality.
But before that, I wanted to circle back to what I said the day before yesterday about the scars of Cyclone Ditwah being "already erased." In Sigiriya, yes, the illusion of a landscape back on its feet was very real. But that’s not the case—far from it—in the new town of Anuradhapura! Along a hundred-meter stretch on either side of the river that splits the city in two, all we see is tangled sheets of metal, uprooted trees, and piles of debris. You can easily imagine the wave of mud rushing over the houses, swallowing everything in its path, and leaving behind this scene of devastation. A grim, post-apocalyptic Hollywood movie set...
And yet, despite this frozen chaos, life seems to be reclaiming its rights, and the Sri Lankans impress me by keeping their smiles despite everything. For us, the contrast with what follows is completely jarring. We leave behind the aftermath of Ditwah and step into a historical site that time seems to have left untouched.
Jethawanaramaya, Thuparama, Ruvanvalisaya, Isurumuniya, Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi... Just a bunch of major temples and stupas with unpronounceable names you *must* remember. Consider yourself warned—there’ll be a pop quiz at the end!
To understand this site, you first need to know why Anuradhapura was chosen as the capital back then. Long ago, Sanghamitta—the well-named Buddhist nun and daughter of the emperor at the time—had the idea to bring back a cutting from the tree under which Buddha attained Nirvana. Planting it in the small town of Anuradhapura, the tree instantly became the center of the kingdom. That’s why, 2,300 years later, the cutting now fully grown, the most revered treasure of Sri Lanka is a 30-meter-tall ficus!
As you can imagine, we obviously didn’t miss paying a visit to this rock star... And you know what? Like all stars, it’s really just a tree like any other—if you ignore the bodyguards keeping you from getting too close.
Another highlight to remember was our visit to Ruwanwelisaya, also known as the great white stupa that every devout Buddhist dreams of visiting at least once in their lifetime. An immaculate Mecca, a Vatican made of cotton. This stupa, with its impressive proportions, stands over 100 meters tall with a circumference of 300 meters, around which the faithful walk in silence, make offerings, or pray. I don’t know if you realize, but this "elderly giant" has been drawing crowds like this for over 2,100 years! "Soldiers, remember that from the top of this stupa, twenty-one centuries of history are watching over you!"
Alright, we cross the park again to check out another stupa, then another temple, and then... Along the way, we come across lots of black-headed monkeys and hornbills, those exotic birds with oversized beaks... I also take this quiet moment to remind my dad that you don’t mess around with etiquette in the presence of His Majesty Buddha in Sri Lanka: First, smoking or vaping in front of Buddha is considered disrespectful, so don’t do it. Next, if you have a tattoo of Buddha, it’s best to cover it up to avoid any trouble. I also warn him to be careful with his gestures: Never take a selfie with a Buddha statue—the Sri Lankans would see that as an insult. Truth be told, it’s better not to turn your back on him at all. Even a flower you intend to offer shouldn’t be sniffed! Only Buddha gets to enjoy its scent, got it? Finally, dress appropriately: barefoot, with shoulders and legs covered, and absolutely no low-cut tops. "Dad, I told you, no cleavage! And while we’re at it, put on your rain jacket—there’s a tropical downpour heading our way!"
So, it’s time for us to hop back into our tuk-tuk for a couple of hours of "passionate debates" that will lead us to new horizons you’ll discover with us tomorrow...
Hi,
I just got back from 7 weeks in Sri Lanka (with a 4-day extension thanks to Donald 😅) and we made 6 trips of 80-100 km by tuktuk with a driver, but without any steep climbs like Tissa-Haputale. Everything was organized on the go.
There are actually 3 variants of this vehicle. The one to go for: the Bajaj RE with a 4-stroke engine—better than the Bajaj RE with a 2-stroke engine, which is older and reeks of burnt oil. There’s also the PIAGGIO, less common, wider (so more space for luggage), but with a diesel engine and noisier.
We only had 2 bags (like NorthFace 60L) and 2 backpacks. Usually, there’s no luggage rack, but there’s space behind the seat—except for the Wilpattu National Park-Kalpitiya route. Our guest house (Wilpatu Buma Lodge, an excellent family-run GH) provided us with a tuktuk whose driver had practically filled the luggage space with 2 huge speakers!
Check out this link too: https://www.tongsetsrilanka.com/voyager-en-tuk-tuk-au-sri-lanka
For the Anuradhapura area (days for the ruins, late afternoon in Mihintale), I can recommend Nishantha: he’s full of info and offers reasonable prices. He also does multi-day trips further afield.
There’s a saying that the night brings counsel. Another claims that after the rain comes sunshine. If you toss both into a shaker and give it a good shake, you might invent a new proverb of our own: The night brings the sunshine! Because last night’s windshield-wiper workout during our two-hour tuk-tuk ride didn’t bode well for today. Let’s just say we arrived on the island’s east coast, and in December, the rainy season is in full swing here. Add to that the area’s reputation for major natural disasters, and you’d think we had every reason not to come to Trincomalee! Yet here we are.
So why did I stubbornly insist on coming here during K-way season? First, Tukif didn’t bat an eye at this four-hour detour. Second, landing in Tamil territory is like getting a bonus: a different culture, traditions, faces, cuisine, and language—a kind of trip within our trip to Sri Lanka! Third, *météo* (weather) is a feminine noun. And as they say, "feminine" means "moods that change like the wind." So you never know—on a whim, it might just work out.
And guess what? Jean-Claude Dusse was right to believe in it! Because in this Sri Lankan roulette game, we’ve been served a sky-blue breakfast in bed. Ready for a dip in Tamil country!
Here, in this little fishing town, life moves to the rhythm of the waves. The locals, mostly Hindu, live according to religious celebrations. Sacred cows in the streets, colorful temples, fish markets, sandy beaches, and coconut trees are their daily life... and ours for today. That said, one thing Hindus and Tamils have in common is their kindness! It’s crazy—all these smiles given to us for free!
Anyway, after the over-the-top temples of Koneswaram and Shri Badrakali Amman, the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli for our baptism in the Indian Ocean, a refreshing coconut, some samosas that’ll probably give us hemorrhoids, and our first national kottu in a roadside shack, our Tamil detour is already coming to an end. A bold move. Exemplary courage. Total satisfaction! And since you won’t do it, I’ll humbly congratulate us myself. Tomorrow, just in case Siddhartha holds a grudge, we’re making our comeback to Buddhist country...
Okay, sure, it’s not exactly comfortable—it’s noisy, the gearbox creaks as much as my dad’s knees, and we’re tossed from side to side like we’re in a salad spinner. But man, is it *amazing* to cruise the stunning roads of Sri Lanka in our puttering tuk-tuk! And yet, here I am, typing this with mosquitoes still between my teeth, right after the five long hours we just endured between Trincomalee and Kandy, dodging the countless laid-back cows, packs of stray dogs, not to mention the chubby elephant casually strolling down the road, or the buses overtaking blindly around curves while spewing thick black smoke and honking...
I’ll say it again—this experience is pure, concentrated happiness... even if my dad in the back keeps his eyes shut as often as he clenches his cheeks! Anyway, all this storytelling just to say we’ve arrived in Kandy, the former capital and cultural heart of the country. On paper, the script is all about discovery and wonder.
But in my personal reality, I have to be honest—it’s a certified ISO9001 disappointment. I’ll mostly focus on the city’s main attraction, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the ceremony held there three times a day to honor this canine that the tooth fairy didn’t want. First off, it’s expensive. Okay, fine, if you come out with your eyes sparkling like a bag of candy, I’ll admit it’s worth it. But no way! It’s stiff, it’s long, and I’d even say it’s about as interesting as rain falling on the windshield of a Lada Samara in November!
And yet... And yet, when it comes time to look back, Kandy will definitely be one of the highlights of our Sri Lankan road trip. My dad even got a little teary-eyed when we left. Want to know why? Don’t worry, I’ll tell you the whole story.
Once upon a time, there were two Sri Lankan siblings who put their heart, sweat, and savings into opening a guesthouse just a year ago. Based on exchange and sharing with travelers from around the world, their project was slowly taking off... until it reached my innocent ears and convinced me to book a night with them near Kandy at the Sky Blue Cabin. So far, so good—welcome to the world of Care Bears!
But two days before our departure, I got a much less fairy-tale-like message: Cyclone Ditwah had caused landslides and fallen trees, wiping out months of work. They invited me to cancel my booking unless I wanted to keep it knowing the situation. Out of solidarity and a genuine desire to help them rebuild, I decided to stick with our plans.
So, on the big day, I picked you up. We were warmly welcomed into a post-apocalyptic building with no insurance, where young and old were busy making sure we could sleep there that night in decent conditions. Arriving at lunchtime, we were invited to share their simple meal. No negotiation possible when it comes to hospitality! That evening, after our flavorless visit to Kandy, we were allowed to go to our room. One rule: Watch out, wet paint—don’t touch the walls! But before we could snore the night away, we were invited to another feast with the whole family. And what a feast! It was hands-down the number one meal of the trip—not just for the taste, but for the conversations that came with it!
Now, get ready for the tearjerker! When it came time to pay for the night and the three delicious meals Shashikala had prepared, it was like trying to insert a suppository—it just wouldn’t go in. We couldn’t get them to accept payment for what we owed, nor the financial help my dad and I had agreed on. Their response, which showed their extreme kindness and generosity, left us stunned: "It’s *us* who should thank *you* for coming all this way despite the difficult situation we’re going through!"
Sashikala and Shashika, I know you’re reading this. I want you to know that I’ll keep the emotional memory of this encounter close to my heart—the courage and humility you’ve shown. We *will* see each other again, I promise... And to give credit where it’s due, *we’re* the ones who should be thanking *you*!
A classic Sri Lankan tourist experience is hopping on the train that runs between Kandy and Ella. The reason is simple, my dear reader: According to the backpacker’s law, this railway line winds through stunning landscapes, and this stretch is actually considered one of the most beautiful in the world—no exaggeration. So, up for jumping on the train? Yeah?... Well, sorry, but we just got turned down... Turns out that pesky Ditwah (always her!) broke the fancy electric train that was gifted at Christmas. Result: A poorly managed meltdown, a toy in pieces, and trains grounded for the next six months. Way to go, champ...
So, hit the road, Jack—it’s me driving, you honking! Ladies and gentlemen, the tuk-tuk to Ella is about to leave—all aboard!
Once again, the bill is steep: a solid five hours clinging to Tukif’s hide. Luckily, the scenery does its best to put on a show, treating us to either mountain roads covered in impenetrable jungle where troops of macaques wave as we pass, or valleys carpeted with fluorescent rice paddies where farmers work tirelessly. Unfortunately, the postcard views we’re seeing hide gaping wounds we can’t—and won’t—ignore. Ditwah strikes again as the perfect culprit! Along the way, we pass through villages practically wiped off the map, swept away by either torrential mudslides or entire mountainsides that broke off, taking everything with them. It’s chilling and a stark reminder that the one in charge on this planet isn’t who we think!
"That’s it? Nothing more to say about these five hours of bumpy hell?" Of course there is! For starters, we put Tukif in 4x4 mode several times to get up close and personal with nature via narrow, bumpy backroads. And every now and then, we stopped to meet Sri Lankans and catch a glimpse of their daily lives through our Western eyes. And if I stopped my description here, I’d also be glossing over the *extremely* extreme trek of at least three kilometers we tackled to reach Dunhinda Waterfall, with its impressive chocolate-colored flow. You’ll notice I used the word "extreme" twice in the same sentence to make my dad think he’d pulled off a real feat—to reassure him about his physical abilities and keep him motivated for what’s next! Too bad, Dad!
Anyway, if you add in the 18 Bends road section, a massive dam, a giant Buddha statue we stumbled upon during our wanderings, plus the smiles of kids and welcoming waves from adults, you’ve got everything that made our five-hour journey worth it—until we finally landed in Ella, where we discovered our first rolling hills covered in those photogenic tea plants. And let’s just say, even if you offered me a burned CD of Eve Angeli’s greatest hits, I wouldn’t trade this magical view!
"By the way, Dad, as a fan of curves, would a view of these feminine contours from above tempt you to tuck in the sun for the night?" Deal! Let’s get those thighs burning for the ascent of Little Adam’s Peak, where some treacherous stairs full of steps await us. I’ve read before that the walk from Ella was idyllic... Let’s just say that’s not the word I’d use to describe it. And clearly, my dad isn’t about to disagree with me... "Oxygen support requested at the top of Little Adam’s Peak! Thanks for that!
There we go, that rascal of a sun has finally gone to sleep, so we can finally unwind—even if, I’ll admit, we weren’t exactly wound up to begin with... I know just the spot for that! A little haven I’ve found for us for the night. Simple, no frills, just a cabin deep in the jungle garden all to ourselves... We kick off our hiking shoes in favor of flip-flops, slice up some sausage while sipping our traditional daily pastis as a couple, on our terrace, to the sound of the jungle’s little critters. Isn’t this nice? I’ve decided—I want to live here for the rest of my life. To start, we’ll extend our stay here by one more night...
I was really looking forward to following your family adventures, and I’m not disappointed!
That’s such a bummer about your brother’s trip being canceled...
A tuk-tuk as your main mode of transport? That’s awesome! [:)]
On the other hand, in 2019, you could also rent them in the Philippines—at least for the day, it was possible.
Sri Lanka’s one of those destinations where opinions are *all* over the place—some people are totally let down, others are completely blown away.
So far, you seem pretty happy with it!
Yes Pascale, it’s hard to be disappointed by this destination! That said, the mode of transport and way of traveling definitely play a big part too. Either way, Sri Lankans are lovely, the landscapes are super green, the beer’s good, and the water’s warm... what more could you ask for?
We shared some truly beautiful moments with this family, indeed.
Travel really puts our daily worries into perspective. In Indonesia, we met people who worked hard all day long, yet always kept smiling despite the challenges of their lives.
A wonderful lesson in courage and humility.
Sri Lankans have had a tough time over the past few years and decades, but they still keep smiling no matter what!
Some truly beautiful moments shared with that family, indeed.
Travel really puts our daily worries into perspective. In Indonesia, we met people who worked all day long, yet always kept smiling despite how hard their lives were. A great lesson in courage and humility.
I’m so glad to read your trip report about your new destination.
Would you accept a new relic (75 years old) in your tuk-tuk?
Except for the northeast (Tamil country), I’m reminded of our adventure back in 2004 and the beautiful landscapes of Ceylon (oddly, that name didn’t stand the test of time, while Ho Chi Minh is still Saigon and Beijing hasn’t replaced Peking!).
How lucky for the elephants—we only saw a few, and from a distance!
Didn’t you visit a spice garden or the stunning Peradeniya Gardens near Kandy?
Request accepted, Jean-Claude!
For the gardens, the prices are now exorbitant, so I decided to skip them... 15 € per person to wander around a garden—I thought that was a bit steep...
Anyway, the adventures continue!
See you soon for the next part!
In Sri Lanka, five fruits and veggies a day is a piece of cake! Waking up in paradise this morning, we're surrounded by coffee plants, cinnamon trees, jackfruit trees, mango trees, banana trees, papaya trees... So much so that we need to burn off all those vitamins with a burst of energy. You can guess I’ve got just the thing in my bag! A nature dripping with greenery, a sky so blue it hurts—doesn’t that make your legs itch to get moving?
We did, so off we went to Nine Arch Bridge, the iconic spot near Ella and arguably the most photographed place in all of Sri Lanka. Also called the "Bridge in the Sky," this railway viaduct is officially known for its all-stone architecture. But we weren’t just there to count the arches—we wanted to see the lush setting that makes it so special. To get there, you’ve got options, from easy to challenging. There’s the tuk-tuk drop-off for a quick, touristy pit stop (no halo included), or the sweaty hike that lets you arrive through the backstage, cutting through a dense forest before popping out to the cherry on its delicate bed of chlorophyll. We went with B—obviously! And once we were on that pilgrimage path, we knew we were exactly where we wanted to be, right in the middle of this green paradise... and the leeches trying to drain our calves dry!
So, what about the bridge? Is the hype justified? No debate here—it delivers. But let’s be real, it’s still just a bridge. A gorgeous viaduct, sure, but plop it in the middle of a Norman pasture with two cows and a gray sky, and it’d probably get way fewer Instagram likes. No, for us, the real star of the show is the surrounding nature, signing autographs left and right: towering eucalyptus trees playing skyscraper, perfectly lined tea plantations, impressive tree ferns, banana trees, and coconut palms rounding out the scene. It’s green. It’s beautiful. It’s *gloriously* green!
Back on Tukif, we’re now cruising the winding roads of the area, stopping for quick Kodak moments in tea plantations to meet the pickers, at Dhowa Rock Cave Temple (where the beauty-spirituality-price ratio leaves us frustrated), and at Ravana Ella Waterfall, where we pose for photos with the local macaques.
After that, with the sun officially off on a business trip somewhere unknown, we wrap up the day in Ella’s streets, which have a distinctly touristy vibe. Trendy bars and restaurants, chain souvenir shops, Western girls in miniskirts—definitely not our usual scene. But let’s be honest, the town does have one undeniable perk: beer is easy to find, and I’ve got to admit, Lion Strong, the Sri Lankan brew, is damn tasty....
I'm diving (virtually only) into this trip at full speed as usual, and in a bit of a chaotic situation .
From your perspective, Sri Lanka does seem pretty cool .
Hello Muriel! Welcome aboard!
I love those kinds of conditions! And we're leaving in 6 days for another adventure in the same spirit... off to Namibia!
On our Sri Lankan adventure today, we’re retracing the steps of a certain Thomas Lipton. Who exactly is this gentleman with a name that rings a bell?... He’s the man who once made what seemed like a casual remark but actually changed the fate of an entire country: “Tea for all!” You’ve probably guessed it by now—Mr. Lipton is none other than the father of Lipton Ice Tea, and more precisely, the man who made the world’s most consumed drink accessible to everyone. Because as obvious as it may seem today, tea used to be a luxury product. Rare and expensive to import, it was only for the elite who could afford it.
In the early 19th century, a disease devastated nearly all the coffee plantations on the island of Ceylon. While many saw it as a disaster, Sir Thomas Lipton spotted an opportunity. He bought no fewer than seven plantations and decided to grow tea there, convinced it was well-suited to the local altitude and weather conditions. The rest is history: Ceylon became Sri Lanka, and the country gradually established itself as one of the world’s largest tea producers.
The heart of these tea cultures is in Haputale, a balcony overlooking the world suspended somewhere between secret valleys and mystical mist. The small town is surrounded by tea plantations that lazily ripple across the hillsides, creating almost hypnotic landscapes. Hiking trails weave through them everywhere, all seemingly leading to the legendary Lipton’s Seat, the lookout where Sir Thomas Lipton loved to sit every morning, gazing at his plantations with childlike wonder.
And we totally get it! Because we’re also struggling to tear ourselves away from these landscapes, which are surely among the most beautiful in Sri Lanka. They fill our entire day—from a small local market to winding, narrow roads with breathtaking views, an informative visit to the Dambatenne tea-drying and packaging factory, a tasting of the sacred brew, a pause by the statue of Sir Lipton, and walks to meet the pickers carefully hand-plucking the top two leaves and bud from each bush in this sea of green... Time flies without warning in these timeless lands...
It’s in one of these villages we pass through that we set up camp for the night. By late afternoon, I’m a bit like my dad’s version of Frédéric Lopez, dragging him on foot through the village streets to soak up smiles and conversations as we quietly join in the locals’ leisure activities. We try our hand at a game of cricket—Sri Lanka’s national sport—chat with villagers tending their gardens or doing laundry, get one of our tuk-tuk’s fenders replaced after a bus ripped it off, and most of all, share simple moments made of glances and smiles... Another beautiful day gifted by this incredible country, which just keeps growing on us...
Nope, he's learning how to saddle an elephant right now. He never ceases to amaze us!
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Yeah, I keep a journal for all my adventures—especially to preserve my memories safe and sound in case of an Elsa Heimer moment... [;)] But I’m nowhere near posting anything here yet (just don’t have the time), even if it’s always in the back of my mind...
As for tuk-tuks in Namibia, I looked into it, but it’s not really a thing there. Over there, it’s either a "normal" vehicle with lodges or a tent on the roof of a Hilux. What I *can* say is that it’ll be neither of those! [;)]
Etymologically speaking, the whole point of a road trip is to hit the road with a loosely defined plan, an overambitious playlist, and the firm intention of getting *somewhere*—without ever being sure when or how. Once again today, we’re sticking to that definition to a T. From Haputale, where we are this morning, to Tangalle, where we hope to sleep tonight, the GPS is crystal clear: six hours of driving! With twelve hours of daylight forecast for today, we’ll be putting every minute to good use, given all the points of interest I’ve noted along the way... But let’s not put the cart before the horse—let’s start at the beginning with our first stop, reached after an hour of rattling around in our trusty Tuk-Tuk.
Sri Lanka’s beautiful island is often praised for its wild beaches, temples, and tea plantations perched in the mountains. But what people often forget is that the island is also home to one of the highest concentrations of waterfalls in the world. Over 500 cascades burst forth in the heart of its tropical landscapes. And guess what? The one that might just be the most impressive of all is right on our route today—Diyaluma Falls. At 220 meters tall, it’s the second-highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. You can admire it from the road, but what makes Diyaluma unique is the hike that takes you to its summit, where you can swim in natural overflow pools with a breathtaking view of the entire valley. No problem for my dad when it comes to hiking, even in tropical sauna mode. However, in the phrase "breathtaking view," he mostly focused on the word "breathtaking." So, he wrote himself a note excusing himself from the view *and* the swim. Signed: the scaredy-cat!
Alright, back on the road toward the unknown and our next stop: Buduruwagala Temple, literally "The Rock of Buddhist Sculptures." After visiting, I’d have gone with "The Rock of Timeless Buddhist Sculptures, a sanctuary of ancient sacred statues, the unofficial kingdom of monkeys roaming freely in a thick, buzzing jungle," but that wouldn’t have fit on the signs. In short, this hidden gem emerges mysteriously from the forest in absolute tranquility. We’re practically alone here, with a sense of discovery as we contemplate these enormous silhouettes carved into the granite, motionless for centuries, with the cries of monkeys as a soothing soundtrack. A little favorite moment...
On the road again! Between freshly squeezed fruit juice and scenic stops in rice paddies, we continue our pilgrimage, passing open-air roadside shops: stalls selling fruits and vegetables, tire vendors, gas canisters, car parts, sofas, coffins... All the essentials of life—well, except the coffins. We also make an unplanned stop in Galeria, thrown onto our route by fate... or rather by my dad, who seemed to think that a day where everything goes smoothly must be a scam!
During yet another contemplative stop in a photogenic rice paddy, my dad slips away discreetly to negotiate an urgent intestinal peace treaty with nature. By now, this scene is too familiar to warrant much commentary... Except that twenty kilometers down the road, in the middle of an equally inspiring banana plantation, reality—sneaky and lurking behind a bunch of bananas—hits us with a logistical slap. My dad, the hero, realizes that in the heat of the moment, he’d carelessly left our little backpack behind at his improvised drop-off spot. What was in this sacrificial offering to the local flora? Oh, just our passports, bank cards, driver’s licenses, plus a little bonus equivalent to the modest sum of 500 € in small bills... There you have it—the price of justice!
Well, after a thorough investigation carried out by our best experts rushed to the scene, the bag was finally found safe and sound. Phew! We can finally kick off our vacation in this adventure since we’ve just landed on a randomly chosen beach in Tangalle. And since luck seems to be on our side, we’re enjoying a nice Lion Strong, white sand between our toes, waiting for the sun to call it a day. In front of us, the determination of a baby turtle trying to reach the Indian Ocean makes us realize one thing: we’ve truly arrived in paradise...
While Sri Lanka is a perfect playground for energetic newbie adventurers, it’s also an ideal spot to kick back and switch into sea, sex, and sun-on-the-beach mode. I mean, why not explore the island’s 1,300 kilometers of coastline as a chance to discover hidden coves and secret beaches, snorkel with tiny fish and big turtles, or just lounge in the sun to get that perfect tan that’ll make your friends back home super jealous? Okay, the last option isn’t really our thing, but you get the idea for the days ahead...
It’s worth noting we’re not planning to just fry ourselves like pancakes on our hypothetical beach towels... Proof of that is this morning’s alarm clock going off at the crack of dawn—six a.m.—so we could fire up Tukif and head out to meet the local fishermen returning from their nighttime trips.
And this early wake-up call wasn’t for nothing! At Tangalle’s harbor, some sailors are prepping their boats for a long trip out to sea, while others are coming back and negotiating their hard-earned catch. It’s loud, it’s bustling, it’s bursting with life... and there we are, right in the middle of this raw, unfiltered scene with no stage or glitter—just us as the only VIP guests from Europe. So, of course, they spoil us: explaining, showing, sharing their daily routine, all with big, genuine smiles that aren’t about anything but kindness. My dad’s loving it—at least, that’s what his amazed face is telling me...
Next up is the pageant of the misses—obviously, I’m talking about the beaches that put Sri Lanka’s south coast on the map. The first to charm us is Blue Beach in Nilwella. Let’s just say the bar is set *sky-high* on the Beachter scale with this double cove, its perfect curves accentuated by a fashion-forward peninsula. But what really seals the deal is that peninsula and the mini-hike it offers. An enchanting yucca forest, rocks sculpted by crashing waves, natural pools, coconut trees reaching for the sky... The combo is unbeatable for soaking up long moments of pure awe. Blue Beach, the jury’s verdict? **Approved!**
The second contestant to take the stage in front of us is Hiriketiya Beach, a favorite among surfers of all levels. Can you picture my dad on a surfboard?... Neither can he! So we stick to the classics: swimming and an ice-cold beer while soaking in the very aesthetic scenery...
We keep moving forward in our casting, guided by this logic: "What if the next one is even more beautiful?" Now it’s Dikwella Beach’s turn in the spotlight. And it wins everyone over! Raw beauty untouched by human pollution. Here, coconut palms and yuccas take turns offering life-saving shade, perfect for slicing up juicy mangoes and tasty pineapples for lunch. Add warm water and soft sand slipping between your toes to the picture, and you’ll want to activate the no-return clause!
Oh no, wait—we can do even better! Because if you add a visit to the Wewurukannala Buduraja Maha Viharaya temple and its giant Buddha to the end of the day, followed by a mouthwatering grilled fish feast at Ceylon Excel, then you’ve got the *perfect* day—the kind every tour operator should include in their itineraries. You agree, Dad?
