Life under the tropical sun is just so darn cruel... Why do we *have* to find answers to all these complicated questions? For example, today—flip-flops: red or blue? And the beaches—one, two? Why not three? You might laugh, but it’s exhausting thinking about all this in this heat!
We’ll take it easy pondering it all from Silent Beach, our very first stop of the day. And the least you can say is that this spot turns out to be another true slice of paradise. On the beach, Coco cuddles, on the beach, Coco... A long, deserted stretch of golden sand, lined with coconut trees, where the only visual pollution is a few officially approved nap traps—namely, hammocks lazily strung here and there between two curved trunks.
Besides a quick dip, the only physical activity officially allowed here is strolling along the beach to uncover what’s mysteriously hiding behind the rocks at the far end. And guess what?... We find its little sister—just as adorable and, once again, all to ourselves for our swimsuits!
All that energy spent left us completely wiped out. Quick, a nice cold coconut while lounging in a deck chair with our feet in the water! Only a storm could snap us out of this waking dream, sending us wandering for the rest of the day through a totally different scene—the streets of Tangalle, the noise, and the smells of little eateries that worked up our appetites. That’s all for today... curtain down.
Hang in there! Life in the tropics is a series of challenges that only the bravest travelers can take on [:P][;)]
Mes photos sur Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/153304262@N05/albums
"Le Temps nous égare. Le Temps nous étreint. Le Temps nous est gare. Le Temps nous est train".
Hi there,
I’ve been following your travels in Sri Lanka with pleasure—I love your style! And it’s not every day you get around by tuk-tuk! (I’ll be asking you for tips on that, because I’m really into the idea and I’m planning to go back there this winter!)
As I read your story, I ended up at those beaches in the south of the island that you describe so well, and they reminded me of one of my best memories from that country... Very old memories! It’s hard to say exactly which beach it was... It was around Dondra Head or between Matara and that southernmost tip of Ceylon. Yes, we still called it Ceylon, even though it hadn’t been called that for two or three years. We were there in April 1975, so exactly 51 years ago. Back then, there was no internet, of course, and not even a paper guidebook with reliable info. Aside from visiting some historical sites like Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, or Kataragama, I mostly let chance guide me, as I often do...
Around noon, an ancient bus dropped me off in a seaside village at the very south of Ceylon. It was scorching hot—late April or early May—with not a breath of air and hardly anyone outside. That was pretty unusual in a country almost as crowded as India! My first thought was to head to the beach to cool off a bit.
I walk through the coconut grove toward the beach... No one around! I sit down near a rock, and suddenly I hear footsteps behind me. I turn around and see a guy about twenty meters away who clearly didn’t dare come any closer. Glancing toward the palm grove, I vaguely make out shadows moving, then a good dozen people standing motionless behind each coconut tree, all staring in my direction. I wave to the guy closest to me, and soon everyone in the area heads my way. More and more keep coming over the next few minutes, until it feels like the whole village has shown up to see the lost white tourist!
When I explain that I’m looking for a place to eat lunch, they lead me to the village, and the whole crowd follows—even the village idiot, who has everyone laughing! They take me into a hut, I’m surrounded on all sides, and there are even more people outside. I can see a dozen pairs of eyes watching my every move through the bamboo walls. My snorkel sticking out of my bag intrigues more than a few of them. I show them the diving mask that goes with it and get them laughing as I explain how I can catch fish with a piece of bungee cord and a bike spoke!
There’s no restaurant in the village. As often happened in Ceylon, they invite me to share a meal. This time, it’s an excellent fish curry! I offer the head of the household my only T-shirt, and we spend part of the afternoon chatting in broken English while drinking rounds of toddy—a drink I could’ve done without. I much prefer its distilled cousin, arrack!
Have you ever had the chance to try that "famous" drink?
What a beautiful story—it really makes you want to discover these kinds of preserved places, though there are fewer and fewer of them... No, I haven’t had the chance to try that drink yet. On the other hand, we *did* try arak!
If today had to have a title, "The Sun Is Dead" would’ve been spot-on. When we woke up, the sky’s color made it clear Nicoletta wouldn’t be attacking Richard Cocciante’s epidermis today. Anyway, since the sky got up on the wrong side of the clouds this morning, might as well hit the gas, right? So we left the Tangalle area a bit early to hug the ocean westbound toward Mirissa, another hotspot on the coast famous for its beaches.
Along the way, zigzagging between shy sunny spells and whimsical downpours, we made a few stops that barely managed to crack a smile on our faces... The white lighthouse at Devundara, the water temple in Matara... before being welcomed by a glorious, saving burst of light at Secret Beach—a beach that’s not so secret after all, since plenty of others clearly decoded the treasure map before us. Luckily, a few steps to the side were all it took to find the ultimate luxury on the neighboring Niyana Wella beach: being alone, just us and our last dip of the day. Oh, already the last one? Yep, as we moved toward the long beach at Weligama, sheets of rain came down on us, leaving us no choice but to endure a few beers, reluctantly chugged under the tarps of a beachside restaurant. One beer’s fine. Two beers, okay. Three beers—hello, damage!... Rain wins by KO, and we won’t see the sun again today...
Luckily, the best activity of the day was right there on our dinner plate. As night fell on Weligama Beach, stalls set up to proudly display beautiful fresh fish and shellfish. Easy-peasy picnic—you pick a few critters that give you puppy-dog eyes, then settle at a table with your feet in the sand while they get dressed up for their barbecue debut. A few minutes later, your taste buds are treated to a long, passionate rendezvous. Yep, our grilled prawns made us forget all about the day’s weather woes. A tsunami of flavor. A standing ovation in our mouths. Rest in peace, little guys—our stomachs are over the moon...
Between the lush green tea plantations, the impenetrable jungle, the sacred sites steeped in spirituality, and the coastline offering its array of idyllic beaches, Sri Lanka really pulls out all the stops when it comes to diversifying its points of interest. And let’s not forget that the island can also add its easily accessible wildlife to its already impressive bow. We’ve already written a few lines about elephants, but today, other little creatures have clearly taken over the story.
This time, the stars will be marine—or they won’t be at all: whales to brighten our morning with a sunrise boat trip, and synchronized swimming with turtles as a post-lunch activity. On paper, it sounds perfect, but as always, it’s all conditional—animal participation isn’t guaranteed.
So, in full ocean paparazzi mode, necks craned and eyes glued to the horizon from our boat, we scan the sea like our lives depend on it. Except for now, all we’re seeing is an endless expanse of water topped with a generous layer of waves. "Hey whales, we want the big stuff—dorsal fins, ocean giants in 4K Netflix documentary mode! So show yourselves!" Unfortunately, our four monotonous hours of nautical drifting only offered the entertainment of the Italian in front of us puking up his breakfast to attract the cetaceans. Oh, but wait—taking pity on us, a pod of about twenty playful dolphins put on a little show at the end of the trip, just so we wouldn’t go home empty-handed, as they say in *le bouchonnois*...
No luck with the whales, but will the turtles smile upon us? Oh yes, I say yes! The turtles saved for the afternoon are far less shy than the whales. Arriving at Dalawella Beach, we’re greeted by no fewer than seven massive, walking shells in fifty centimeters of water. Let’s just say the show starts without even needing to put on masks and snorkels! And let’s just say the little boy with me has as many stars in his eyes as candles on his birthday cake... "No, little Jacky, Dad already told you not to touch the turtles..."
And how to perfectly wrap up a day all about animals?... By sacrificing a fine specimen on the altar of our taste buds, of course! Like last night, we end the day with our feet in the sand and a big grilled fish on our plates. We’re leaving the area tomorrow morning, but thinking about it, I reckon we wouldn’t mind staying two or three... years longer just to repeat this little ritual every evening...
Hello, the travel journal is written and online on my FB account. I’ll admit that the lack of activity on VF doesn’t really encourage me to share it quickly, but I promise I’ll do it... [:P]
Fifteenth day... Fifteenth, but most importantly, the last day of our little adventure! This morning, as we opened our eyes, we were fully aware that we were soaking in the last morning light of our Sri Lankan experience. And we also knew that the six hours in a tuk-tuk to the airport would force us into a day-long road trip romance. And when you’re getting cozy with the open road, that means stops, encounters, and discoveries all about improvisation and lucky breaks! Alright, let’s go, buddy!
The plan is to head up the entire west coast of Sri Lanka, hugging the sea with a radiant sky above our heads. Let me tell you, this is nothing like my trips between Reims and Château-Thierry in the middle of December!
Our first stop wasn’t random—it was scribbled in the back of my brain: Coconut Hill. For those who don’t speak English, that means we’re dealing with a hill overlooking the vast ocean, where a bunch of coconut trees proudly reach for the sky. Yeah, I admit, it’s quicker to say in English... Just be careful, though, because this place is Instagram’s pride and joy. If I translate that, it means there are more tourists per square meter than coconut trees. But according to the *Petit Larousse Illustré*, the definition of a "tourist" is clear: at seven in the morning, they’re still snoring like logs! So, since my dad isn’t wearing a tight croc-top and I haven’t injected hyaluronic acid into my lips yet, you won’t find any Insta posts from Coconut Hill this morning. Total privatization of the spot—thank you, goodbye!
For the rest of the trip, the rules are simple. See a nice beach? Stop, we’re pulling over! Run into fishermen hauling in their nets? Stop, we’re pulling over! Look at that cute little roadside fruit juice stand—how adorable! Stop, we’re pulling over! And that pretty little temple no one’s heard of—did you see it? Stop, we’re pulling over!
And what if a cop tells us to stop? Ouch, same deal—we stop. The guy with the baton explains in perfect English that I had the brilliant idea to overtake on a double lane where tuk-tuks aren’t allowed. Apparently, Sri Lankan law doesn’t find this little detour very legal, and I need to follow him to his vehicle until a ticket is issued. I understood every word—got it, thanks. But not reasonable, and new around here...: "Nau spic anglich, sori..." The guy, stunned by my uppercut, finds himself backed into a corner. He calls over a friend to replay the same educational serenade. Same punishment: "Frènech frènech, donte anderstande"... Both guys, disillusioned, ask the crowd for advice. No luck... All that’s left is the 50/50 lifeline, which seals the expected outcome: "Go on, scram!" Ah, *that*, French understands very well!
All this to say we made it back on time, ticket-free, into the bustling anthill of the capital Colombo to soak up its joyfully chaotic vibe and hear the final whistle of our adventure coming to an end... And just like that, it's over... And it's right then, when everything stops and you glance back one last time, that you realize, that you take stock... What an amazing journey it was! So much ground covered! So many wonderful encounters!... A happy dad. And that feeling of having lived something real. Something powerful. Together. Father and son reunited, even if our boys' band was administratively short one member at the start of the tour... The satisfaction, too, of a job well done. Of bringing our tuk-tuk back safe and sound after 1,500 kilometers of loyal service, laughter, white-knuckle moments, dust, and improbable roads. What now? In full-on post-travel blues mode, we're doomed to return to our structured lives, our wintery home sweet home to recharge for the next adventure. If you're free and up for it again, how about we meet up in a month and a half?
Hi, the travel journal is written and online on my FB account. I admit that the lack of interaction on VF doesn’t really encourage me to share it quickly, but I promise I’ll do it... [:P]
Hello!
When you check the stats, there are still quite a few views!
Plus, a travel journal is meant to last. Interactions are low today, but tomorrow other readers will come when they’re planning a trip.
For example, me
Given the current situation, if my Plan A (the Sultanate of Oman) doesn’t work out, my Plan B will likely be Sri Lanka.
Anyway, I’m here now and maybe I’ll be back [;]
Mes photos sur Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/153304262@N05/albums
"Le Temps nous égare. Le Temps nous étreint. Le Temps nous est gare. Le Temps nous est train".
Hello, the travel journal is written and online on my FB account. I admit that the lack of interaction on VF doesn’t really encourage me to share it quickly, but I promise I’ll do it... [:P]
Oh yeah, but think about all those who don’t have your Facebook account!! I looked on your blog too!
I’ll take this opportunity to thank you (again) for your travel stories—they always whisk me away with so much energy and good vibes!
It’s posts like yours that are going to breathe new life into this forum. They’re so funny, surprising, and addictive—all while giving tons of info about your travels. You can really tell you love discovering people and their cultures, and that’s great to see.
In the past, it was Allan’s stories that drew readers (his trip to North Korea). Now, it’s yours, among others. So please, share your adventures from FB here on the forum!
My bad—I’ve been waiting to finish the travel journal to thank you, but I’ve been following along here with delight and I hope you’ll keep treating us to the story of your adventures!
Françoise
P.S. And to follow you on FB, do you use the same username?
I’m here too, but behind the scenes because I *should’ve* been in Sri Lanka last December (we could’ve crossed paths!). That is, if a grumpy doc hadn’t banned me from flying for 3 months 😤
So, I’m reading and seething with envy
That said, zero chance I could take my girlfriend (who’s brunette, by the way) on a tuk-tuk for a month!
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Oh yeah, right, but think about all those who don’t have your Facebook account!! I looked everywhere on your blog too!
I did the same thing!
Yeah, seems like there’s a party somewhere else, and they won’t even give us the address
Mes photos sur Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/153304262@N05/albums
"Le Temps nous égare. Le Temps nous étreint. Le Temps nous est gare. Le Temps nous est train".
Hi Biboun,
Your travel journal and photos are making me want to jump on the first flight to Sri Lanka right now!... And then hop in a tuk-tuk! [:P]
So, Indonesians or Sri Lankans—which ones are friendlier? [;)]
Oh come on, Franck, people *do* read your travel journals! There are always way more readers than commenters... it was the same even before Covid [:/]
Some even follow them to the letter—or almost: proof, I’m in Puglia right now
Okay, I’m not sure I’ll take the exact same route for Sri Lanka, but thanks for this lively and funny travel journal [;)]
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Hey, the travel journal is written and online on my FB account. I admit that the lack of interaction here on VF doesn’t really encourage me to share it quickly, but I promise I’ll do it... [:P]
Yes, yes... I’m one of your biggest fans of your travel journals 😊, which I prefer reading here on VF over FB 😉
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
A real tuk-tuk, a tiny colorful box on wheels that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea?... First off, Sri Lanka and its winding roads leading to the vastness of lush nature is tailor-made for this kind of ride. And since it's one of only two countries in the world that lets foreigners rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our rolling two-square-meter space.
I read your travel journal about Sri Lanka with interest. The tuk-tuk idea really stuck with me, and I’d love to give it a try. Could you tell me how you managed to rent one?
Did you go through a car rental agency? Which one? What was the rate?
Hi Biboun,
Your review and photos make me want to jump on the first flight to Sri Lanka right away!... And then hop in a tuk-tuk! [:P]
So, Indonesians or Sri Lankans—who’s friendlier? [;)]
Haha, tough call!
Indonesians are more smiley and less shy. Sri Lankans are warmer and more generous once the ice is broken and you’ve made the first move.
A real tuk-tuk, a tiny colorful rolling box that putters along at a snail’s pace. The idea?... Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads leading to vast expanses of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of ride. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that let foreigners rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’re going to crisscross the island behind the wheel of our two-square-meter rolling adventure.
I read your travel journal about Sri Lanka with interest. The tuk-tuk idea really stuck with me, and I’d love to give it a try. Could you tell me how you managed to rent one?
Did you go through a car rental agency? Which one? What was the rate?
The agency has a solid reputation and everything is very well organized. For 2 weeks, I paid around 350 €.
Tuktuk Rental Sri Lanka & Cambodia | Explore with Freedom - tuktukrental.com - Tuktuk Rental
It’s stories like yours that’ll breathe new life into this forum.
They’re so funny, surprising, and addictive—all while packed with info about your travels. You can tell you love discovering people and their cultures, and that’s really refreshing.
In the past, it was Allan’s posts that drew readers (his trip to North Korea).
Now, it’s yours, among others. So please, share your adventures from FB here on the forum!
Larri
Alright, let’s keep contributing then... Next travel journal coming up very soon!
Alright, let's keep contributing, then... Next travel journal coming up very soon! 😊
But America, America
I want it and I’ll have it
America, America
If it’s a dream, I’ll know it...
Nos escapades : Le Maroc, l'Egypte, la Mauritanie, la Tunisie, l'Afrique du Sud, Lanzarote, les Etats-Unis (3 ans), le Canada, le Mexique, la Colombie, le Pérou, la Guadeloupe, la Martinique, l'Indonésie, la Thaïlande, Israël, Dubaï, la Jordanie, la Turquie, et Tahiti... pour l'instant !
Thanks so much for this really great travel journal—love the humor too! It’s definitely making me want to go.
Just one question about leeches—did you have any issues with them?
Thanks so much for this really great travel journal—love the humor too, and of course, it makes me want to go there.
Any issues with leeches, by the way?
No issues—what do you mean? No infections?... Nope, just a little scab where that hungry thing sucked me. [;)]
