Je me permet de m'incruster dans la discussion, etant le compagnon de route ( et de tente :) de La Claire ....
Promis, on fera sur notre site, comme dans tous les pays, un petit reportage compte rendu.
Tu pourras voir ici qu'on a deja un peu teste les longues distances sans eau, nottement en traversant le sahara occidental, et la mauritanie.
voyage.jeremiebt.com
Des etapes aussi de plusieurs jours sans rien, avec 20 litres d'eau, autants de fruits et de legumes.. et esperant ne pas crever.
Pour l'anecdote, je n'ai pas creve, mais mon pneu a litteralement exploser sous la pression (trop forte car je voulais aller plus vite0, le poid, la chaleur de l'asphalte.
Heureusement on avait le pneu de rechange :)
Bref, dans un mois et demi (et 1700 km plus tard) nous serons a Livingstone. On part demain de Windhoek (reste un pneu a regonfler, et acheter du PQ :)
A pluch dans le bush !
"Il faut pédaler comme on range sa chambre"
ou
"Heureux le pauvre à qui rien ne manque"
Pour eviter de Polluer ce sujet, avant qu il ne devienne Hors sujet ( pour l'instant on reste dans les clous du camping sauvage...) je mets le liens vers un sujet que j ai ouvert exclusivement sur notre traversee:
Bonjour, voila en effet ce que j'ai nommé les femmes girafes, sauf que celles que j'avais rencontré étaient très jeunes et le cou très droit (sans doute pour supporter le poids du métal) quel dommage qu'au moment de les photographier je me sois apercu que j'étais a bout de pellicule, vive le numérique!
Entre Bagani et Kongola, c'est un parc. Probablement interdit en vélo et assurément interdit de camper.
Aaaaaah... ca c'est nul...
Effectivement la route passe "dans" le parc en Caprivi.
En meme temps y a pas l'air d'avoir vraiment d'autres routes pour contourner ca... es-tu sur que ca passe pas en velo ? Genre c'est un parc avec entree et obligation de dormir en camps ? Pourtant il y a quand meme des gens qui vivent dans cette zone (ils ont peut etre meme des velos ?) ?
Pour les nuits, des qu'on en a l'occasion, on cherche a se rapprocher des maisons, on discute un peu, on partage un bout de repas et on installe la tente a cote... C'est plus safe et c'est toujours des moments super geniaux.
Sinon la seule option qu'on a si on ne peut pas traverser ca en velo, c'est de squatter un vehicule. Mais bon c'est nul. Pi ca fait une trotte...
Bonjour, voila en effet ce que j'ai nommé les femmes girafes, sauf que celles que j'avais rencontré étaient très jeunes et le cou très droit (sans doute pour supporter le poids du métal)
Mais mon ami, c'était la même ...... avec 30 ans de moins. 😎
ça change quoi quand tu passes dans un village et que tu envoies de la poussière à la figure de ceux qui y vivent : Pas grand chose, pour eux t'es aussi un touriste, même si tu l'es plus souvent et plus longtemps
C'est ca qui est bon dans le voyage a velo, c'est que t'envoie rien dans la figure de personne.
Si ce n'est un peu de curiosite... 🙂
Il y a (au pif) 200km de belle nationale, un parc à traverser sans péage, ni truc à payer, avec des panneaux tous les 10 km qui te disent de rouler moins vite à cause des éléphants qui traversent. Donc, roule moins vite pour éviter une collision !!!!.
Il est aussi assez courant d'admettre que ces bestiaux ont des passages, signalés par leur crottes volumineuses et faudrait être quand même un peu naze pour planter la tente à cet endroit.
Il y a des villages planqués dans la végétation, à l'écart de la route; Ils ne sont pas nombreux mais je te confirme que les habitants ont des vélos .... et à vous de jouer, ce devrait être l'occasion de bonnes rencontres.
Belle phrase sonnante d'un homme, si éminent écrivain fusse t il, qui n'a jamais "voyagé" comme il te convient, à part pour donner des conférences en europe et outre atlantique...t'aurais au moins pu citer Stevenson, Hemingway, London ou même Loti si on veut rester dans l'hexagone.
Une dernière juste pour la route, tout aussi bateau, mais assez à propos et après j'arrête ces échanges stériles :
Les gens répugnent à reconnaître le bonheur chez les autres et s'ils le font, c'est avec une nuance de mépris et d'ironie.
Oûûh lala ! 😮 "Petit" Pierre... 😛 toi qui es toujours si patient ...
Bizarre comme certains jours reçoivent de mauvaises zzondes ! !
C'est pô grâve ! Demain est un autre jour !
J'espère ...🤪
Bon dimanche, Pierre ! 😎
Le touriste fait du tourisme.
Le voyageur fait du voyage et un peu de tourisme :)))))
Et quelle est la difference entre un bon et un mauvais touriste?
Le mauvais touriste, fait du tourisme. Bon, ok.
Le bon touriste fait aussi du tourisme. Mais... c'est un bon touriste.
;0
Elle n'est pas de moa, elle est d'un "inconnu"
Les miennes de citation sont dans ma signature :)
Bref pour recentrer un peu le sujet, et prendre un peu de hauteur comme si c'etait le jour de l'ascension, je me permet de copier un truc lu qui peut avoir un interet dans la discussion.
L'auteur se manifestra si besoin:
Si ca peut aider de futurs cyclistes, alors voila:
"je reste persuadé que cette route dans le Caprivi dans le parc vous sera interdite et que, même si vous arrivez à camper, vous risquez des ennuis avec la police. Il y a peut-être des villages de cyclistes locaux même si j'en doute, mais vous ne serez pas considérés comme des locaux. La Namibie, c'est l'Afrique, mais une Afrique un peu particulière où il y a des lois et des règles et du monde pour les faire respecter et pas seulement pour empocher des bakchichs (essayer de bakchicher en Namibie peut vous conduire en prison).
En plus cette route depuis Rundu risque d'être assez incroyablement fastidieuse. Elle l'est déjà en voiture !
À votre place, je pense que j'essaierais de me rapprocher de la NWR à Windhoek ou de la police à Rundu avant de partir pour savoir ce qu'ils en disent… Si vous y tenez… "
On prend note.
"Il faut pédaler comme on range sa chambre"
ou
"Heureux le pauvre à qui rien ne manque"
Essaye de poster une demande d'info sur le forum SA 4X4 Community, je suis sûr que tu trouveras réponse à ta question concernant la possibilité (légale) de faire la bande de caprivi en vélo. Contrairement à Pierre je pense que tu auras le droit d'y circuler car certe elle traverse le parc national de Bwabwata, mais c'est aussi une route nationale et la seule qui relie la Namibie à la Zambie (par Katima Mulilo).
Maintenant pour l'intendance et si je me souviens bien, pas de ravitaillement possible en dehors de Rundu, Bagani/Divundu, Kongola et Katima Mulilo. Pour le dodo et le planter de tente, il te faudra certainement demander dans les hameaux de cases qui bordent la route car les rares "picnic spot' implantés au bord de la route sont généralement plein de détritus et de bouses et crottes en tous genre.
bon j'avais promis qu'on tiendrait ce post a jour alors voila des petites nouvelles fraiches en direct de Oudjo...
Nous sommes partis a velo de Windhoek, pour rejoindre Spitzkoppe en passant par la C28 puis la C32, franchissant ce maginifique (et o combien raide) Bosua Pass... Que de la gravel road quoi, et comme ils disent ici : very hilly !
Epuisant et magique.
Puis direction Brandberg (gravel road mon amour), et cap au nord direction Khorixas qui est un endroit assez horrible il faut le dire.
Jusque la, le camping sauvage en Namibie est un regal...
A condition de privilegier plutot les gravel roads, la ou il est plus facile de trouver un "petit coin" un peu eloigne de la route pour y planter ses sardines.
Aaaaah... les gravel roads... ou comment te prendre un mechant caillou dans le bras parce que l'autre cretin dans son 4x4 climatise n'a pas reussi a ralentir a temps... hihi merci de lever le pied, c'est plus agreable pour ceux qui sont sur le bord !
De nuit, aucun probleme car bien bien peu de vehicules passent sur ces routes, rien a voir avec le goudron ou ca circule tout le temps, et puis nous cherchons toujours des petits coins a l'ecart, evidemment pas dans le bas cote !
Du cote des animaux : rien, pas un chat, on est limite decu... ;), bon mais je pense que ca va venir, en allant plus au nord, c'est vrai que le sud est quand meme plus desertique...
Du cote de l'eau et des victuailles, il faut bien gerer ses provisions, car en fonction de la qualite de la route, du sens du vent, des deniveles, on met parfois du temps a relier une ville. Et en velo quand t'as soif, t'es mal. Les distances sont longues et il n'y a vraiment rien pour se ravitailler en dehors des villes. Mais bon, c'est tres agreable d'avoir ce sentiment d'etre en autonomie, de gerer sa nourriture pour ne pas manquer, d'economiser ce petit bout de fromage, de siroter ton eau, et puis d'etre seul(s), quoi, tranquille au milieu de la nature...
Et puis, la vitesse reduite du velo nous permet evidemment de profiter pleinement de la beaute des paysages, bien plus il me semble qu'en voiture...
Une petite remarque... nous nous sommes rendus une fois en campsite histoire de prendre une douche, et puis de voir a quoi ca ressemble.
D'un coup, ca nous a paru debile de payer pour pouvoir dormir, en plus on a galere pour rejoidre l'endroit (la piste en saaaaaable), c'est dommage parce qu'on y a rencontre des gens superchouettes ! Trop isoles, trop chers, trop "organise", decidemment c'est pas une formule pour cyclistes habitues a se gerer eux-meme...
allez des bises, et puis a bientot pour des petits complements...
J'aime beaucoup votre commentaire. L'approche est évidemment très différente du genre .....3 semaines de vacances "à donf" avec un planning à la minute près.
Votre approche est un peu la mienne, et si mon âge ne me permet plus les "fantaisies cyclistes", je me balade en 4X4.
Il existe au moins un 4x4 sans clim qui s'arrête lorsque je croise ou double un cycliste, pour discuter un peu, offrir de l'eau, parfois fraîche et "pas pour nettoyer le pare brise 😏". (joke pour ceux qui ont parcouru votre site !!!).
Et vous avez un souci de moins, vous n'avez pas l'angoisse de l'autonomie en Gasoil ....🏴☠️😄
Non c'est vrai mais on a bien celle de l'autonomie en eau et en nourriture !! Incroyable comme la Namibie est "concue" pour le tourisme en voiture ! Ou sont donc les petits marches, les bouibouis dans lesquels tu achete un bol de riz, ou de la viande sechee, que sais-je encore ? Il n'y a aucune alternative aux supermarches spar et OK-machin, ce qui contraint enormement notre itineraire. C'est un peu rageant de prevoir tout en fonction de ca.
Alawtif, rassure-toi rien n'est perdu : on a rencontre au Maroc un cyclo-papy polonais de 66 ans ! Dingue ! Le monsieur un jour s'est fache avec sa femme, il a decide sur un coup de tete d'aller "faire un petit tour", entre la Pologne et Agadir, histoire de prendre l'air j'imagine... 😏
Et Irene, la soixantaine aussi :
nancydakaravelo.free.fr
Nos agendas ne nous ont pas permis de rouler ensemble, mais on a pu se croiser en Mauritanie et papoter un peu...
Non c'est vrai mais on a bien celle de l'autonomie en eau et en nourriture !! Incroyable comme la Namibie est "concue" pour le tourisme en voiture ! Ou sont donc les petits marches, les bouibouis dans lesquels tu achete un bol de riz, ou de la viande sechee, que sais-je encore ? Il n'y a aucune alternative aux supermarches spar et OK-machin, ce qui contraint enormement notre itineraire. C'est un peu rageant de prevoir tout en fonction de ca.
La Namibie, pour moi, ce n'est pas vraiment l'Afrique. La configuration actuelle du pays vient certainement de son histoire. Elle a été le labo pour expérimenter l'apartheid qui fut appliqué en Afrique du Sud avec les "bantoustans" au nord et les fermes (pour les blancs) de 15.000ha au sud. Auparavant, les hereros avaient été pratiquement exterminés par les allemands.
Si la Namibie est devenue indépendante (c'est le dernier pays d'Afrique !!!!) et s'est libéré de l'occupation Sud Africaine dans les années 90, elle a conservée cette configuration et tu dois pédaler pendant 200km, entre les clôtures en barbelés au Sud pour trouver une ville. Au nord, c'est un peu différent (Kaokoland) et on retrouve (enfin !!!) l'Afrique en Angola.
J'ai eu la chance de vivre quelques jours dans une ferme namibienne, c'est un "peu" spécial et nécessite un grand calme devant les propos émis.
.... tu as oublié les super marché "Pick en Pay" et la difficulté pour trouver de l'eau plate en bouteille, ni verte, ni jaune, ni bleu, ni avec des bulles, ni avec des vitamines.
mais il y a la bièèèèèèèère.
Fait des stocks de biltong (viande séchée) ça se conserve.
Une petite photo de Bavière ...... non, pardon de Namibie
- -
A plus (mon épouse me sussure que vous devriez mettre votre site à jour !!)
A plus (mon épouse me sussure que vous devriez mettre votre site à jour !!)
Elle a completement raison ! En verite, le "reportage" sur le Benin, dernier pays ou nous etions avant de nous envoler vers le Texas, heu... pardon la Namibie, est tout pret tout chaud, mais notre ami en France qui s'occupe de le mettre en ligne (et en page) pour nous est en vacances. On ne lui en veut pas. 😛 Faudra attendre encore un peu...
Bonjour à vous deux (j'ai failli dire les cyclo-touristes, mais je m'abstiens de peur de motiver de nouvelles discussions philosophiques .. 😇)
mais si un gentil pick up pas trop charge nous propose de traverser Etosha avec lui... why not ? on met les velos derriere et hop.
Il devrait y avoir suffisamment de transit sur la B8 qui traverse la bande de Caprivi pour que vous puissiez vous faire prendre en stop (avec vos vélos bien sûr). Et en plus ce n'est pas de la gravel, alors même pas drôle d'y rouler à vélo 😉
Oui oui, c'est ce qu'on pense aussi...
mais on aura recours au 4x4 qu'en cas de gros pepin : genre un elephant a voulu essayer mon velo, ou alors si c'est vraiment interdit pour nous de traverser la bande de caprivi...
en tout cas on vous tiendra au jus...
C'etait bien nous !
La seule fois ou nous nous sommes arretes dans un lodge, d'ailleurs... en principe, c'est plutot derriere un buissson qu'il faut nous chercher 😛 !
On y a passe un super moment en compagnie de deux familles francaises (et puis une vraie douche, c'est toujours un super moment aussi...)
En ce qui concerne le camping sauvage (il y a du nouveau), une fois passe le check point, (la red line, le barrage de police, appelez-ca comme vous voulez) entre Grootfontein et Rundu, c'est un nouveau monde qui s'offre au cycliste amateur de rencontres et de traditions locales : une multitude de villages avec des gens noirs, mais ouiiii ! on commencait a se demander si les namibiens noirs n'habitaient que dans les proprietes des blancs ou dans des boites en tole... retour en Afrique, pour notre plus grand plaisir !
Hors de question d'essayer de se planquer pour du "camping sauvage", l'occasion est trop belle. On a passe deux nuits dans des familles, a partager un coin de feu, des chants (ca chante mortel grave bien, attention), un bout de repas, et quelques mots dans la langue, enfin !
Comment a t-on pu nous dire qu'il n'y avait "rien" le long de cette route ?
C'est toujours avec un "chouette des nouvelles !" que je découvre le récit/épisode suivant de vos aventures.
C'est vrai que l'on rentre dans la véritable Afrique, "à la Kirikou", plus authentique, une fois passé la barrière sanitaire !
Et pour vous c'est encore plus frappant !
Comment a t-on pu nous dire qu'il n'y avait "rien" le long de cette route ?
C'est la différence d'impressions entre un voyageur circulant en voiture et un autre à vélo !
On ne peut pas dire qu'il n'y a rien car on voit l'agencement des villages, on en perçoit l'ambiance.
On découvre toute une vie le long de cette voie: les tas de bois, de "chanvre" disposés le long de la route pour la vente, les groupes d'enfants qui vont à l'école, les animaux sauvages ou domestiques qui traversent la route !
Par contre le paysage n'est pas époustouflant comme dans d'autres régions !
C'est chouette de voir que vous avez été accueillis par les villageois et avez pu partager ces moments rares !
Cela me rappelle les rencontres de Sonia et Alexandre Poussins !
Inutile de vous dire "profitez-en bien" ! 😉
Bonne continuation à tous les deux et merci de nous enchanter. 😎
super de vous avoir croisé alors que l'on vous avait déjà lu avant le départ !
les familles françaises ce n'etait pas nous, dans ce lodge nous juste joué 2mn avec le suricate qui apparait aussi dans le livre "hummeldumm".
Bon périple à tous les deux, la bande de Caprivi devrait s'annoncer passionante pour des chevronnés comme vous mais aussi peut-être un peu "too much" et quelque peu éprouvante.
Certains touristes nous ont dit qu'au bout du bout ça devient "dangereux".
Nous resterons friands de vos nouvelles ; dorénavants vous avez quasi une mission ; être en voyage pour nous par procuration !
nous sommes arrives vivants a Katima Mulilo hier. 😉
Bon bon que dire du camping sauvage... si ce n'est que le coin est tres sauvage en effet.. hou houuu...
Nous sommes entres facilement dans le parc de Caprivi apres avoir baratine un peu le policier. Par contre on a depasse tous les villages de l'entree, et quand est venue la nuit... hihi... apres une histoire a tomber par terre avec un pasteur completement flingue de la tete qui dormait dans un arbre, bref on racontera tout ca sur notre site quand notre webmaster prefere sera rentre de vacance (pfff ces gens qui partent en vacance je vous jure), on s'est retrouves a dormir a deux pas de l'entree du "Buffalo game park" (10 km a droite apres Divundu, au croisement avec les panneaux solaires) dans des vieilles ruines datant de la guerre, au beau milieu des animaux. "Nan ca craint rien" nous dit le pasteur. On aura quand meme droit a la visite de deux elephants croisant dans le coin vers 20 h, puis le lion vers 23h, et pour finir au petit matin je vous le donne en mille (ne manquait que lui au tableau), l'hippopotaaaaame !
Le flippe total, mais je me demande si l'animal le plus dangereux n'etait pas a cote de moi, mon Jeremie qui faisait un raffut du tonnerre avec ses ronflements.
Puis 60 km et dodo a Omega I
Puis 80 km et dodo a Omega III
Puis dodo chez des familles bien chouettes selectionnees par le hasard de notre route,
et youpla nous voilaaaa !
Comme on passe en Zambie demain et que je vais devenir hors-sujet, je vous bise et je vous donne rendez vous sur notre site ou une autre rubrique de voyageforum...
Bon, ben mes infos ne valaient pas tripette… Tant mieux ! Pourtant, en théories, elles étaient vraies. TIA…
Content que ça se soit bien passé et que les lions du Caprivi ne vous aient pas mangés. Bonne suite à vos aventures !
Eh bien , c'est vraiment une aventure votre circuit !
Vous en avez eu de la chance d'avoir de telles visites mais également de la chance que cela s'est passé aussi bien !
A l'occasion, lors d'un passage dans un village tu peux, Claire, demander à un sorcier s'il n'a pas une recette contre les ronflements ! 😉
Bonne continuation !
On vous suivra sur votre blog !
Merci à vous de nous avoir fait rêver et merci pour votre site avec ces liens vers les cyclistes tropicaux et improbables.
Finalement je trouve les photos des autres plus sympa par ce qu'on a la découverte en plus !
Bonnes fêtes et bonne année 2014 !
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 5 replies
Nous passons 3 semaines en Namibie l'été prochain. Le véhicule sera très probablement un 4x4 simple ou double cabine avec tente sur le toit (nous possédons…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Tanzanie · 2 replies
Non pas "sauvage", j'exagère... Est ce que quelqu' un pourrait me dire s il est possible de dormir avec ma propre tente à Moru Kopje, dans le centre du…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 6 replies
J'ai trouvé ce circuit en camping www.samsara-voyages... Cela correspond à peu près au parcours que je veux faire et dans les conditions que je veux faire…
Nous partons en couple pour l'Afrique de l'Est, au programme: ETHIOPIE, KENYA, TANZANIE, MALAWI... Départ dans une petite semaine...Nous voyagerons en…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Afrique du Sud · 6 replies
Avec un ami nous ommes en afsud du 18 au 29 juin "coupe du monde " oblige!! nous avons l intention de prendre le bazbus pour nous rendre vers le natal du 19 au…
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!