Nicolas Bouvier ( et avant lui Byron, Maillart etc... ) ont eux aussi magnifiquement écrit sur cette Route des Indes, mais c'était bien avant le Hippie Trail 🙂.
Oui, Nicolas Bouvier est répertorié en Bouvier Nicolas 😉 sinon, il y aurait effectivement comme précurseurs Ella Maillart avec "La voie cruelle" 1939 et Robert Byron, "La route d'Oxiane" 1930.
Quand j'habitais aux USA j'avais lu un autre très bon récit de cette période écrit par un Canadien. J'essaie de retrouver le titre du bouquin et l'auteur pour le rajouter à ta liste.
La biblio n'est qu'en langue française, si c'est le cas je suis preneur, merci beaucoup.
bonjour, entre "l'usage du monde" qui s’arrête en Afghanistan (ou au Pakistan je sais plus) , et "le poisson scorpion" qui se passe à Ceylan, Nicolas Bouvier a t il écrit sur son voyage en Inde? (j'ai jamais trouvé..) merci et bonne journée 🙂
On peu lire ceci dans un article de Libération à l'occasion de la sortie des œuvres de Nicolas Bouvier dans la collection Quarto chez Gallimard :
Bouvier n'écrivit jamais la suite du voyage (après l'Afghanistan), à quelques bribes près que publièrent les Editions Hoëbecke (l'oeil du voyageur, 2001), et dont des extraits sont reproduits dans ce «Quarto», mais il en fit le récit dans une série d'émissions à la radio : une partie du décryptage des bandes magnétiques enrichit d'inédits le volume.
L'Usage du Monde se termine au Khyber Pass, à la frontière afghano-pakistanaise.
J'ai lu il y a quelques temps quelques pages de lui sur l'Inde ( je crois que c'est dans sa correspondance avec Thierry Vernet publiée récemment ).
Peut-être que ses notes n'étaient pas aussi touffues pour cette partie du voyage et/ou que la fatigue s'en est mêlée ?
Et puis l'Inde est un vrai tourbillon où peut se perdre tout écrivain, aussi fin et observateur soit-il.
Personnellement j'étais juste porté par les événements quotidiens quand j'y étais.
Peut-être que ses notes n'étaient pas aussi touffues pour cette partie du voyage et/ou que la fatigue s'en est mêlée ?
L.
il est probable que Nicolas Bouvier avait déjà commencé sa dépression avant d'arriver à Ceylan... Eliane Bouvier :
« Mon mari était un compagnon très joyeux. Il a, certes, connu des moments de dépression épouvantables, je n'ai pas toujours vécu une vie facile, mais il était avenant, il aimait les gens, il était d'une bonté incroyable. Il aurait fait un grand-père génial, et c'est ce que je regrette pour lui et mes deux petits enfants. »
bonjour, entre "l'usage du monde" qui s’arrête en Afghanistan (ou au Pakistan je sais plus) , et "le poisson scorpion" qui se passe à Ceylan, Nicolas Bouvier a t il écrit sur son voyage en Inde? (j'ai jamais trouvé..) merci et bonne journée 🙂
On entend Nicolas Bouvier parler de l'Inde (Gwalior) sur ce début de vidéo ce début de vidéo...
merci à vous deux pour les éclaircissements!🙂 pour la dépression j'avais pas lu le poisson scorpion sous cet angle.. mais comme un exercice de style ultra brillant.. quelle belle personne
Beaucoup d'émotion en lisant vos récits : je n'ai pas pris les "chemins de Kathmandou" mais l'avion quand j'y suis partie en 1971 pour un contrat de travail (je n'aurais pas pu financer ce voyage sinon). Malgré cela je n'avais qu'un visa de 3 mois : on m'a dit que seuls les hippies fils à papas avaient droit de cité suite aux difficultés créées dans le passé par à des drogués difficiles à prendre en charge.
Mon contrat de 2 ans a pris fin au bout de 2 mois pour des raisons politiques mais cette expérience a été très enrichissante bien que je n'aie pas pu quitter la vallée de Kathmandou (on travaillait 6 jours sur 7). Il y avait peu de touristes vu la rareté des routes et des transports aériens (en dehors de la liaison avec Dehli il n'y avait que l'hélicoptère du roi !) et à Bhadgaon on se croyait au Moyen-Age.
Voilà, j'ai retrouvé le nom et le titre du bouquin. Il est bien en anglais mais je le glisse ici quand même, au cas où :
" The Last India Overland " de Craig Grant.
Il y a aussi " A Season in Heaven " de David Tomory. C'est plutôt un recueil de témoignages à posteriori de gens qui avaient pris cette route.
Bhadgaon( village du riz en Népalais) est devenu Bhaktapur ( La cité des dévots!) et depuis une dizaine d'années il faut payer pour la visiter et c'est la foule...
Avant 09h00, il n'y a quasiment que les habitants du cru. Déposé vers 06h00, j'ai pu m'y balader en toute tranquillité et retrouver avec délice la ruelle des vendeurs de yaourts de buffle.
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
Avant 09h00, il n'y a quasiment que les habitants du cru. Déposé vers 06h00, j'ai pu m'y balader en toute tranquillité et retrouver avec délice la ruelle des vendeurs de yaourts de buffle.
J'y suis allé il y a quelques années et ça vaut toujours le coup de la visite mais je me remémore comment c'était en 1972...ça a bien changé tout de même ...un saut de 2 ou 3 siècles!
Le durbar a malheureusement lourdement trinqué. Mais la ville dans son ensemble conserve un grand charme que je n'ai retrouvé ni à Pathan ni à Katmandou. Ni même à Panauti ou Kirtipur.
ça vaut toujours le coup de la visite
Pour éviter la foule que tu signalais auparavant, le mieux est d'y coucher. Si on arrive de nuit, plus de billet à acheter...
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
Un très grand merci à tous les contributeurs de cette passionnante discussion que je viens de découvrir. En complément des références bibliographiques et liens donnés par Becdanlo et Levolo, le livre récent de Sharif Gemie et Brian Ireland ("The hippie trail : a history") décrit et analyse l'histoire de la route des Indes et les motivations de ceux qui sont partis à cette époque. Ce voyage se faisait dans une grande précarité aux antipodes des conditions actuelles (pas de guide, de cartes, de CB, de teléphone, peu d'argent, moyens de transport imprévus). Pourtant, comme cela apparaît dans ce forum, les rencontres et le cheminement aventureux hors du temps laissent de merveilleux souvenirs que nous gardons précieusement en mémoire.
Cette route, je l'ai empruntée. C'était en 1978, j'avais tout juste 21 ans et vivais à Londres. J'avais fini mes études et avec mon frère, nous avions décidé de partir à Katmandou. Il y avait cette compagnie de bus, la "Budget Bus", je me souviens très bien de l'endroit où le départ ce faisait : à Totteridge Tube Station. C'était un bus super moderne mais, avant de prendre le ferry pour traverser la Manche, nous en avions changé pour un vieux modèle déglingué (de couleur bleu pâle et crème, je crois).
Nous avions pu traverser l'Iran mais cela s'était avéré assez difficile, notre bus ayant été "caillassé" par des jeunes criant des propos anti américains.
Plus tard, quand nous sommes entrés en Afghanistan, nous nous sommes tout de suite sentis plus en sécurité (que c'est étrange de dire cela aujourd'hui). Le reste du voyage est tout aussi mémorable. Le groupe international que nous formions étant très vivant. J'aimerais y retourner, mais j'ai bien peur d'être déçue.
Pour ceux qui disent que cette route s'est arrêtée en 1979, ce n'est pas tout à fait vrai, on pouvait encore traverser l'Iran après la Révolution, mais on ne pouvait plus obtenir de visas aussi facilement ni de trouver autant de compagnies de bus
qui organisaient ce genre de voyages à bas coût. Nombre de voyageurs fauchés se sont donc tournés vers d'autres destinations. De toute façon, ce n'était ni la Turqui, ni l'Iran qui intéressaient les voyageurs, c'était l'Inde et le Népal, voire l'Afghanistan pour les drogués principalement.
En ce qui concerne les lectures, il y a celle d'un certain Christian Pyrgoze qui relate son voyage et son séjour à Kabul en 1976 : c'est terriblement mal écrit mais ça n'en demeure pas moins très intéressant, notamment l'anecdote avec Ahmed Shah Massoud. Et puis il y a le roman de Barjavel, dont a été tiré un film tout aussi mielleux : Les Chemins de Katmandou. Nous, on voyageait avec (mon frère m'a assuré toujours le posséder) le premier Lonely Planet. Les conseils aux voyageurs n'étaient pas tout à fait les mêmes qu'aujourd'hui (on nous y expliquait par exemple où vendre son sang pour gagner un peu d'argent et surtout tout savoir sur les drogues des pays visités : où se les procurer, à quel prix...). Ah ! Quelle époque de libertés... 😛
Bonne journée à tous et beaux voyages.
Alekzandra
Être riche, ... ce n'est pas avoir de l'argent - c'est en dépenser.
@ Pequignot : merci beaucoup pour la référence du livre de Sharif Gemie et Brian Ireland ("The hippie trail : a history") !
@ Alekzandra : je confirme, le livre de Christian Pyrgoze "Faruq hotel" est très intéressant et confirme bien que dans ce domaine le fond prime souvent sur la forme. Devenu un peu difficile à trouver au format papier, il est aussi disponible au format Kindle...
oui que de souvenirs, à téhéran nous étions 3 européens dont un journaliste allemand, à llhotel , les iraniens nous arrétaient dans la rue pour nous demandé notre nationalité, à 2 heures prés j'étais aller à la grande poste à téhéran un attentat à la bombe , nous avons pris un bus pour la turquie , j'ai eu l'épisode du caillassage par des gamins le chauffeur de bus nous a dit couchez vous c'est ce que nous avons fait , quel retour
Tu devrais essayer de te procurer " The Last India Overland " de Craig Grant ( peut-être sur le site américain du géant de la vente par Internet, tu vois de quoi je parle ).
Il est passionnant et très bien écrit.
Comme le titre l'indique il relate le voyage du dernier autobus qui a fait la liaison entre Londres et Katmandou au moment où le Moyen Orient était en pleine ébullition.
A ce propos j'étais en Iran il y a 2 ans. Je me suis arrêté à la pension d'Akbar à Bam au sud-est de Kerman. C'est un peu la mémoire vivante de cette route-là ( il accueillait déjà des voyageurs à la fin des années 1970 ). Il y a toujours chez lui un peu de l'esprit de cette époque-là, à moins que cela soit moi qui soit nostalgique !
J'oubliais : le premier LP ( Across Asia on The Cheap ) est un vrai objet de collection. J'aimerais bien l'avoir celui-là !
Il y a aussi eu un autre mini guide publié à la fin des années 1970 à Londres.
J'ai dans ma bibliothèque la première édition du Routard pour l'Asie et le Moyen Orient, version cheveux longs et pataugas. Il décrit aussi le Hippie Trail.
On a aussi le contact plus facile quand on est jeune enfin pour ma par c'est le cas.
Tu veux dire qu'en vieillissant tu as perdu le contact et qu'il est il est moins facile ??? 😛
J'ai l'impression que c'est plutôt le contraire, mais chacun vieillit à sa manière 😉
"Avant que je ne parte pour les pays lointains, mes ongles sur la carte ont tracé le chemin"
"L'expérience est une lanterne attachée dans le dos qui n'éclaire que le chemin qu'on a parcouru"
Donc : "Arrêtez de dire des conneries ! Faites-les !"
Tu veux dire qu'en vieillissant tu as perdu le contact et qu'il est il est moins facile ???
Une certaine forme de contact oui.
Lorsque j'étais jeune je suis allé seul et à maintes reprises ( sans guide ni accompagnateur) à la rencontre de diverses ethnies dites primitives comme par exemple les Kapsiki du Cameroun ou les Mentawaï de Siberut ( Indonésie) il fallait être particulièrement résistant à la fatigue, aux maladies d'une part et SURTOUT avoir gardé une certaine "naïveté naturelle" une âme d'enfant diront certains, pour entrer facilement en communication avec ces peuples qui sont très éloignés du mode de vie occidental...Je serais totalement incapable de le refaire à mon âge...Même si j'ai conservé une bonne forme physique je ne me vois pas arriver dans un village Mentawaï, seul , sans guide, avec cette confiance naturelle qui m'habitait à l'époque et qui me persuadait que rien ne pouvait m'arriver de négatif... par ailleurs même si je le pouvais je me sentirais comme un intrus....un voyeur.. ou un inconscient bref je ne serais pas ou plus à ma place.Je me pose maintenant bien trop de questions...C'est facile à comprendre il me semble?
...Le durbar a malheureusement lourdement trinqué. Mais la ville dans son ensemble conserve un grand charme que je n'ai retrouvé ni à Pathan ni à Katmandou. Ni même à Panauti ou Kirtipur ...
Nous projetons (fin 2020 ou début 2021) de faire un circuit-boucle au Rajasthan (en 17-18 jours) puis de prolonger sur 5 jours (dont 1 pour le vol aller Delhi > Katmandou + 1 pour le vol retour) notre voyage en direction de la capitale du Népal.
Sans prévoir de mini-trek, nous souhaitons simplement consacrer 3 jours pleins à la visite de Katmandou et de sa vallée (Bodnath, Patan, Bhaktapur, ...).
Compte tenu des dégâts causés sur place par les séismes d'avril-mail 2015, quels seraient, selon vous, les sites locaux à privilégier ainsi que le parcours à suivre ?
Merci de votre avis, JLMA
J'ai bien lu et aimé ton partage. Je croyais qu'à Katmandou on pouvait faire tout un repas au cannabis : en apéro, en plat principal (cake), en dessert, dans le café...
bonjour Albinia pour ce genre d'exercice épicurien je ne pense pas que ce soitla bonne destination sauf à finir plusieurs années dans les geôles népalaises...
Elle évoquait l'époque où on pouvait acheter consommer et revendre charas, ganja et champignons ( entre autres) sans risquer de se retrouver en prison... Et oui certains commençaient la journée avec de la mushroom jam au petit dej s'envoyaient une magic omlet à midi et le reste de la journée ils la passaient allongés au bord du lac Pewa en fumant des joints tout en écoutant de la musique psychédélique...
Tout ça était parfaitement légal jusqu'en 1973 et même après( 1975/80) pour la simple consommation à Pokhara surtout. En Inde on pouvait même acheter de l'opium en vente libre dans les shops du gouvernement ( Au Rajasthan)
Ps:La consommation de bhang lassi à Bénarès( et ailleurs) est toujours légale de nos jours.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEhXjnoGriI
souvenirs!souvenirs! 😏
je vais regarder si t'évoques de nouveaux tes bains de minuit nues avec les autres hippies dans ces montagnes.T'as l'air de plus te lâcher ici...😉
“Le temps sera le maître de celui qui n'a pas de maître.”
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like!
M-Claire and Jean
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.
VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now.
The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.
Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions.
I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.
Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.
Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid?
Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again?
Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with?
Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now?
What’s really going on here?
This isn’t exactly a traveler’s question... I’d like to know who handles the technical side of this forum?
I run a similar forum on a different topic (unrecognized children), and we’re dealing with a few technical issues that are slowly killing our forum... so I’d have one or two questions to ask 😊.
Also, I was wondering who created this forum... who the administrators or moderators are, etc.
I think this forum is great. Much better than Facebook, which I’ve been using since it shut down (so I’m happy to see it’s working again...)
Hi there, I’ve been traveling for 18 years now, at least 6 months a year, and as the years go by, I actually enjoy coming back to France more and more—a feeling I struggled with at first. I mean, we always think the grass is greener elsewhere.
But in the end, I find meaning in that saying about how there’s no place like home. I still love traveling just as much, but now my trips are shorter, and I enjoy spending more time in our beautiful country, even though I don’t hesitate to criticize it.
How about you? How do you handle coming back from your travels?
A few years ago, I went with a group of friends to lend a hand at a small rural school near Thiès, Senegal.
It was a relaxed but hardworking atmosphere—hands in the mortar, laughter, exchanges, and everything that a COOPERATION project can bring.
Today, the little project is flying on its own.
Wanting to explore Senegal’s riches, we set off for some tourism in the Siné Saloum. One girl in our group fell ill (a malaria attack), and we decided to take her to see a doctor at a large tourist complex nearby. Despite her condition, we had to "show our credentials" (if I may say so) just to get in. She was treated and has been fine since.
This "stop" at a Club Med-style resort with a Teutonic twist—resembling Le Grau-du-Roi but fancier—was a horror show for us: pools, massive artificial basins dyed blue, pink, or green (!!!!), animators shouting around wet T-shirt contests or coconut tree climbing, and sunburned (or sun-pinked) *toubabs*.
The entire hotel was surrounded by a huge wall, behind which a small souvenir-seller slum had sprung up, worthy of Dakar’s outer neighborhoods.
On leaving, we saw a minibus of guests returning from an "excursion," loaded with masks, fabrics, and djembés—African souvenirs?
Maybe those will be *theirs*?
What impression did the kids clustered at the hotel gates get?
What about the Black servers in "traditional African costumes," serving cocktails and ice cream nonstop?
For me, who experienced Africa very young and in the bush, this remains a haunting image.
On VF, this kind of vacation doesn’t seem to be the norm among users, and that’s exactly why I signed up.
Have you ever experienced this kind of interstellar travel?
Do you understand the Martians?
Are their motivations peaceful?
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