If a single comma buried in long texts suddenly sparks so much interest, I think it’s time to put a... final period on this travel journal.
Today, March 2nd, is my last outing and last day in Chiang Rai since I’m leaving tomorrow for Bangkok, which I’ve already covered enough in the first part of this journal not to revisit. It’ll just be a two-day decompression stop before diving back into the hustle of India.
We set off early this final morning for Pu Kaeng Waterfall.
It takes us nearly two hours to get there because Phajon remembers going with Joël and his wife but can’t recall how to get there. He’s pulled this kind of thing on me two or three times before, and sometimes even within the same day, he forgets things he’s said or done. I’m starting to wonder if he might have a neurological issue.
When we arrive at the waterfall, I’m pretty disappointed because it feels like we’ve landed in a big tourist accommodation spot—like a holiday resort or a luxury campsite. And on top of that, we have to pay an entrance fee. This is the first time I’ve ever had to pay to see a waterfall.
So, without much enthusiasm, I still agree to check it out. First, because the place reminds me of a tropical forest, which I love exploring. Second, because I don’t want to ruin my last day.
After walking a few dozen meters, big signs announce that the waterfall spans nine tiers.
They indicate the distance from the starting point to each tier. The last one is about 1 km from the sign.
At first, I’m disappointed because there isn’t much water in what should be a raging torrent. But I keep going because, once again, it feels like I’m in the heart of a tropical forest I love exploring, and the walk becomes more enjoyable. However, as I progress, the terrain gets trickier. Even with good shoes on, it’s extremely slippery. The path isn’t really a path anymore—it’s more like steps roughly carved into the clay. Between the heavy rain and probably thousands of visitors’ footsteps, these steps aren’t steps at all anymore. They’ve rounded out into vague "bumps" that almost blend into the steep terrain. It’s even worse than what I saw at the previous waterfall. The whole thing feels like it’s covered not in moss but in soap.

Luckily, I spot a cement railing on the right, designed to look like a tree branch or vine to blend into the landscape. It’s meant to help visitors climb, but as soon as I place my hand on it, I feel hundreds of stings on my hands and arms. And I realize they’re not stings—it’s bites from thousands of ants.
This "helpful" railing is completely covered in millions of tiny but fiercely aggressive ants... I immediately let go of the fake vine, struggling to shake off the ants crawling all over my body after leaving my hands and arms.

But my desire to see the waterfall is stronger because as I climb, I see more and more water in the torrent bed. So I really want to reach the top. Especially after seeing stunning photos online of cascades flowing down successive tiers. I’m determined to keep going—without holding the railing. Whenever I really need support, I only use two or three fingers.
I think even younger people would have to keep holding the railing because the ground has become like a bar of soap.
It’s getting more and more impassable—and even dangerous. It’s really essential to hold onto the railing, but it’s completely overrun by ants. What to do? I try to move forward without holding on, using my two- or three-finger technique and immediately shaking my hand, but it’s a real struggle. I’m pretty annoyed because the waterfall is getting really interesting as I climb, but I’m starting to question whether continuing is extremely dangerous without a stick or anything to keep my balance. I’ve already slipped several times, and if I fell, I could tumble down the slope and break a foot, leg, or vertebra.
Especially since I’m absolutely alone today, again.

I’ll take a moment to say I really enjoyed my stay in Chiang Rai because I never encountered crowds anywhere. Very often, I was alone—completely alone. And that’s the case today, too. I take my time and snap lots of photos.
I feel pretty frustrated if I have to give up. Then suddenly, I hear shouts through the forest. I wonder who’s yelling and realize it’s Phajon, shouting at the top of his lungs:
- Go back! Go back!
He’s standing below me, a good fifty meters away.
He’s asking me to come back down. I think he believes I’m taking too long on my visit again. So I shout back that I want to keep going. He yells even louder that I left without a water bottle and that he came to bring me one, so I need to come down and get it.

I decide to go back down, and the descent is even more perilous than the climb. Oddly, I notice he doesn’t have a water bottle—neither in his hands nor in a bag.
He sees I’m annoyed and making a weird face, so he tells me I can keep going but must be very careful because it’s really dangerous. It’s super slippery.
I reply that I had enough trouble coming back down to him and don’t have the energy to climb back up and then go even higher, even though I can tell the tiers are getting closer together.
Since I was determined to keep going despite the danger, I think my guardian angel sent Phajon to make me come back down.
In the end, this waterfall is indeed the one I’d planned to visit, so he wants to follow through on his idea of taking me somewhere he thinks I’ll really love.
It’s completely in the opposite direction from where we are, so we head back on the road, passing close to my accommodation to go the other way.
He takes me to Doi Tung, which, under the initiative of the Queen Mother, was transformed into a sustainable development project—a famous area for its tourist and ecological attractions, including palaces, gardens, and temples.
One of these is Mae Fah Luang,
a stunning floral park.
As a senior, I get a 50% discount to visit the park. A great deal, even though the entrance fee isn’t excessive. But as the rich say, there’s no such thing as small profits.
When I go to buy my ticket, the woman asks for my passport. But once again, I’ve left my bag in the pickup.
- I don’t have it on me; I left it in my vehicle. But you can see from my face that I’m old enough to qualify for the discount.
- I need your passport!
I always struggle with stupid, narrow-minded people—especially those who apply rules rigidly to the letter... we saw plenty of that everywhere during the Covid period.
- Why do you need my passport?
- To verify your age.
- If that’s all, you can see just by looking at me that I’m old and above the age limit for the 50% discount.
- I must see your passport!
Every time, her tone is sharp!
Instead of asking her to use common sense, I try to appeal to her sympathy:
- My vehicle is parked far away, it’s really hot, I’m tired, and I need to sit down and rest for a bit. Maybe the driver went for a walk while waiting for me instead of staying in a vehicle in the blazing sun...
I think I’m dealing with a robot:
- Without seeing your passport, you can enter but at full price.
In moments like these, I feel like slapping someone...
I’m about to head back to the pickup and tell Phajon I can’t stand stupidity and that I’m leaving without visiting. Then I suddenly realize I have a copy of my passport on my phone. I go back to the counter and show her my passport, not without telling her she’s completely narrow-minded. (I don’t know if she understands.)
No wonder Thais accept so many things without reacting or complaining. They’re well-conditioned!

The floral park is absolutely magnificent, but at the same time, it’s not at all the kind of place I prefer. It’s like the rest of Thailand—or rather, the "Thailand spirit"—everything neat, orderly, well-maintained, with not a leaf or flower out of place...
Here, too, I’m the only non-Asian tourist. Of course, I take some nice photos, but I much prefer the ones I took yesterday in the mountains.
After this visit, Phajon takes me on a little detour through Doi Tung, where I can reconnect with the simplicity of nature. I much prefer these stunning landscapes to the perfectly arranged flower beds.

Here, I discover not a sophisticated Skywalk but a small walkway above the void

on a floor not of glass but of interwoven bamboo, just as wobbly and unstable—or even more so in the current situation—but it offers an exceptional view,

without the crowds rushing to it, and I bravely step onto it.


March 3rd
Here I am at the departure point. My bus leaves at 4 PM, and Phajon is picking me up at 3 PM because he’s worried about traffic and doesn’t want me to miss my bus.
Like the other days, he’s early, whereas I’m used to Indian drivers who almost always arrive late.
Before leaving me, he hands me a piece of paper with his name, address, and phone number written by hand and asks me to recommend him to other tourists—without realizing that with such basic info on a scrap of paper, it’s a lost cause. Who’s going to write to a driver at his postal address to ask for details and consider hiring him?
Joël rightly pointed out that I’d gotten a great deal with his rock-bottom rates. Sure, I replied, but it was a good deal for him too, because it wasn’t a car but an everyday service vehicle, non-air-conditioned, and above all, all profit—undeclared, no tax, no professional insurance, etc.
I’m happy, he’s happy. We’re both winners.
I’ll be traveling all night to Bangkok. I’ll stay there on the 4th and 5th and fly to India on the 6th.
There are only two tourists on the bus, and I don’t know where the rest are, but it’s filling up with Thai passengers...
Just in case, I press my phone against the window and snap photos all along the road until nightfall...
And then it’s the real Thailand—the natural Thailand, the rural Thailand, the Thailand of small towns unknown to tourists, the Thailand I didn’t visit, scrolling past my eyes through hundreds of photos that will make me feel like I’ve seen Thailand and, above all, that I haven’t just "done Thailand" like many travelers claim to have "done" because they spent two weeks on beaches, in beds, in arms, or in big tourist centers...
I didn’t think my phone was so advanced to take such great photos while moving.
I don’t close my eyes all night, arriving at 4 AM instead of 5 AM, with my accommodation not opening until 10 AM and the heat unbearable.
Check-in isn’t until noon. I barely make it to my room, exhausted—a shower and straight to bed for a good nap.
Here I am in the final stretch. My last 24 hours in Thailand.
Yesterday, I didn’t leave my room all day—I needed to rest.
I just went to drink my usual favorite fruit juices at the night market and buy one last shirt. I got back around 7:30–8 PM at the latest.
Today, I need to buy some crystals for my family and myself. I discover a real Ali Baba’s cave where the prices after negotiation are more than interesting. But I have to be very pragmatic about packing to avoid paying for extra kilos.
I’ll wrap up by saying I would’ve loved to extend my trip, but at the same time, I’m not unhappy to be going home.
Even if you enjoy it, a long trip is tiring at my age...
I’m already thinking about my next trip to the Himalayas in April. Because I still have about 700 € left from my Thailand budget.
There, I’ve just packed my two suitcases—I’m on target. The checked luggage weighs 19 kg out of the 20 allowed, and the carry-on is 7.3 kg.
In the end, I managed my purchases well in terms of weight.
And expenses too 😊
Writing this journal is a pleasure as I look through some of the 13,000 photos I took and need to select and delete.
Sometimes in photography, for certain subjects, you have to take 100 or 200 shots to hope for one or two really great ones.
Unfortunately, I have to close this journal on a very unpleasant incident.
"It’s the stubborn, obtuse, conditioned side of Thais, shaped by religious and political power for millennia, that completely prevents them from thinking and behaving intelligently in a given situation." That’s how I read somewhere that they let one of their queens drown after she fell from a boat because you’re not supposed to touch the queen. To me, that’s idiotic.
These behaviors in daily life can be really annoying. I’ve always struggled, even as a child, with inconsistencies and lack of thought and logic. Maybe that’s why I was a rebellious kid... and still am.
Well, here’s the last anecdote:
At security, everything goes smoothly because they have good detection equipment. But at the last minute, in my backpack, there’s a 100 ml perfume bottle that’s almost empty. There must be 10 or 15 ml left, and I run into a nasty woman who I think wanted to keep the perfume for herself. She barks at me:
- What’s this?
- Well, it’s toilet water... It’s perfume...
She looks at the bottle...
- It doesn’t say that on it...
She opens it, smells it... And...
- You should’ve put it in checked luggage...
- I’m not putting it in the checked bag because with altitude and pressure, it’ll overflow and make a mess in the suitcase or evaporate...
The woman keeps aggressing me:
- Liquids over 100 ml are not allowed in the cabin!
- It’s a 100 ml bottle, and it’s almost empty.
- It doesn’t say it’s 100 ml on it.
- But you can see it’s almost empty!
- You can’t keep it...
And me, like an idiot, I’m not sticking up for myself because I tell her:
- It’s an extremely expensive perfume; I can’t leave it.
I should never have said that because I think she’d already guessed when she opened the bottle and sniffed what was inside.
- If you really want to take it, you have to go back downstairs to check-in, buy a bag, put the perfume in the bag, and check it in.
- I’m not buying a bag just for that... Or going back down or waiting in line... No, I’m not going back... But come on, you can see the bottle is almost empty.
- You go back down, or you leave the bottle.
Then I get angry and tell her:
- Before leaving it, I want to empty it, and I show her the container for liquids to discard.
Since I can’t go behind her counter, I ask her to empty the bottle in front of me.
As she does it, she gives me such a hateful look that I feel like she’s punching me in the face. And I ask her to give it back (the bottle, not the punch).
- What? You want the empty bottle?
- Yes, I want the empty bottle—it’s a spray bottle I bought specially...
The whole scene happened very quickly. There was no shouting, I didn’t raise my voice. Didn’t want things to escalate... But it ruined my departure.
It’s a perfume I paid 180 € for, and since I didn’t want it to evaporate in flight, I’d only taken a small amount in this travel bottle...