Original post
bonjour
Je cherche le moyen ( bus ou train) pour rejoindre Mamallapuram à partir de l'aéroport de Madras.
Transport aéroport de Madras-station ou gare pour Mammalapuram
by Airline
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Je n'en suis pas certain, mais à partir de l'aéroport tu ne pourra aller à Mamallpuram qu'en taxi. Sinon ce sera bus ou taxi j'usqu'a l'exress bus stand, puis bus fréquent pour mamallapuram.
"j'usqu'a l'exress bus stand, "
Merci. Pourrais tu me dire comment on rejoint cette station ( n° Bus) a partir de l'aéroport. L'accès est il simple?
Merci. Pourrais tu me dire comment on rejoint cette station ( n° Bus) a partir de l'aéroport. L'accès est il simple?
Si tu arrives tard (et même tôt) en Inde par l'aéroport de madras, avec tous tes bagages, prends un taxi. Il ne t'ne côutera que 20 à 30 euros, selon la compagnie, et tu éviteras bien des désagréments et autres fatigues.
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/inde_circuit_tamil_nadu_au_kerala_D716949/
Je m'aperçois que je t'en ai déjà parlé il y a 15 jours: http://voyageforum.com/voyage/prix_actuel_visa_pour_inde_D1034346/
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/inde_circuit_tamil_nadu_au_kerala_D716949/
Je m'aperçois que je t'en ai déjà parlé il y a 15 jours: http://voyageforum.com/voyage/prix_actuel_visa_pour_inde_D1034346/
Si tu ouvres tes yeux d'enfant, le voyage commence au seuil de ta maison
Le terminal d'autobus est assez éloigné de l'aéroport. Tu peux demander à un rickshaw de te conduire à un arrêt d'autobus. Le chauffeur est resté avec moi pour m'indiquer dans quel bus monter (Il n'y a que le numéro qu'on peut lire, tout le reste était écrit en tamoul). Ça coûtait 28-30 roupies si je me souviens bien en décembre dernier. Tu peux payer dans le bus et il est préférable d'avoir de petites coupures.
Salut Nalesnik
Oui c'est vrai que tu m'en avais parlé il y a quinze jours. Il est vraiment si difficile de faire aéroport de Madras- station de bus ( ? )- et Mamallapuram ? Le taxi c'est bien mais cela coupe un peu du vrai visage de l'Inde . En plus je voyage seul et ce n'est pas le plus économique... Enfin si l'on ne peut pas faire autrement. Merci
Oui c'est vrai que tu m'en avais parlé il y a quinze jours. Il est vraiment si difficile de faire aéroport de Madras- station de bus ( ? )- et Mamallapuram ? Le taxi c'est bien mais cela coupe un peu du vrai visage de l'Inde . En plus je voyage seul et ce n'est pas le plus économique... Enfin si l'on ne peut pas faire autrement. Merci
Merci. Il n''y a pas d'arret de bus pour cette station de bus à la sortie directe de l'aéroport?? Te souviens tu du numéro pour cette station centrale, sachant que je vais vers Mamallapuram
J'allais aussi à Mamallapuram. Le Lonely Planet dit qu'il y a un bus qui part de l'aéroport mais à l'aéroport on m'a dit que non. Je ne me souviens pas du numéro malheureusement. Le terminus étant à environ 45 minutes de l'aéroport, le chauffeur m'a plutôt laissé à un arrêt à mi-chemin.
merci😉
je vais voir sur le Lonely planète
Le taxi c'est bien mais cela coupe un peu du vrai visage de l'Inde .
Une course en taxi ne te coupera pas du vrai visage de l'Inde, bien au contraire... Je te conseillerai, si tu arrive la journée à Chennai de prendre un taxi pour aller à la station de bus, pour en prendre un pour mamallapuram, et si c'est de nuit, passer une nuit sur Chennai puis le lendemain ou surlendemain bus pour Mamallapuram. A+
Une course en taxi ne te coupera pas du vrai visage de l'Inde, bien au contraire... Je te conseillerai, si tu arrive la journée à Chennai de prendre un taxi pour aller à la station de bus, pour en prendre un pour mamallapuram, et si c'est de nuit, passer une nuit sur Chennai puis le lendemain ou surlendemain bus pour Mamallapuram. A+
merci, c'est ce que je vais faire. Sais tu quelle station de bus il faut annoncer au chauffeur de taxi ( direction Mamallapuram)
Tu lui dis " vanakkam, I want to go to the express bus stand, this one to go to Mamallapuram, ya vou la vou roubai to go there ? " et en descendant oublies pas de dire " nandri, vanakam ! " oublies pas de rouler les r !
Message reçu et merci beaucoup !
Sama sama, jumpa lagi ! ( ah non merde ça c'est autre chose, je me mélange les pinceaux ! 🙂 ) De rien et a+
Si tu veux passer une première nuit d'enfer dans un pays inconnu, pars à la recherche des bus. Bon courage.
Le visage de l'Inde en pleine nuit, ça n'a vraiment pas d'importance. (Si tu y tiens, en bus, ce sera le bruit et les secousses de l'Inde sur la zone de guerre que les Indiens appellent la route et dont les chars d'assaut s'appellent bus et camions.)
Et même en taxi et en plein jour, ce visage de l'Inde défile sous tes yeux, tu prends tes photos plus aisément, et tu t'arrêtes où tu veux et quand tu veux. 30 euros une fois en passant, pour le gain de temps, d'énergie, et de tranquillité, ça n'est pas cher payer...
Le trajet le plus pittoresque entre Madras et Pondy est l’ECR (East Coast Road), route payante (< 1euro) bien entretenue et pourvue de panneaux indicateurs en anglais, qui longe la mer, des villages provisoires de victimes du tsunami, des salines, des lacs, et qui entre à Pondichéry par sa banlieue musulmane, entre Auroville et Pondy. Idéale pour le paysage... de jour.
Mais le trajet le plus rapide et le plus sûr est l’autoroute (payante aussi, évidemment) qui va jusqu'à Tindivanam (ensuite route nationale de Tindivanam à Pondy), et où les risques d’accidents, en particulier la nuit, sont considérablement réduits. Idéale de nuit, et quand on est pressé, par exemple pour aller de l'aéroport de Madras à Pondy.
Le visage de l'Inde en pleine nuit, ça n'a vraiment pas d'importance. (Si tu y tiens, en bus, ce sera le bruit et les secousses de l'Inde sur la zone de guerre que les Indiens appellent la route et dont les chars d'assaut s'appellent bus et camions.)
Et même en taxi et en plein jour, ce visage de l'Inde défile sous tes yeux, tu prends tes photos plus aisément, et tu t'arrêtes où tu veux et quand tu veux. 30 euros une fois en passant, pour le gain de temps, d'énergie, et de tranquillité, ça n'est pas cher payer...
Le trajet le plus pittoresque entre Madras et Pondy est l’ECR (East Coast Road), route payante (< 1euro) bien entretenue et pourvue de panneaux indicateurs en anglais, qui longe la mer, des villages provisoires de victimes du tsunami, des salines, des lacs, et qui entre à Pondichéry par sa banlieue musulmane, entre Auroville et Pondy. Idéale pour le paysage... de jour.
Mais le trajet le plus rapide et le plus sûr est l’autoroute (payante aussi, évidemment) qui va jusqu'à Tindivanam (ensuite route nationale de Tindivanam à Pondy), et où les risques d’accidents, en particulier la nuit, sont considérablement réduits. Idéale de nuit, et quand on est pressé, par exemple pour aller de l'aéroport de Madras à Pondy.
Si tu ouvres tes yeux d'enfant, le voyage commence au seuil de ta maison
Salut. Merci pour ta réponse.
Ce que tu dis fait " froid dans le dos"
C'est que j'arrive la matin à Madras et que je me disais que j'avais le temps d'arriver tranquillement par bus à Mallamapuram. Mais si tu dis que c'est l'enfer...😕
En définitive, à ton avis, en Inde, il vaut mieux renoncer aux transports en commun? Je compte faire un circuit dans le Talmil Nadu...Si tu as des infos pour moi sur les moyens de transport en commun dans cette région, car je voyage seul et si je ne prends que des taxis cela rallonge le prix du voyage. Sais tu s'il existe en Inde comme en Thailande ces chauffeurs qui prennent plusieurs voyageurs dans leur taxis, ce qui permet d'avoir des prix moindres. En Thailande ils font cela avec des voitures 4X4 japonaises spacieuses (genre Pick up ou fourgonnettes )? L'avantage du taxi est quand on voyage à deux ou trois, mais tout seul le taxi cela me parait le...grand luxe Non ?? Enfin ta réponse me permet de reconsidérer ma "logistique" C'est que d'une manière générale j'aime bien les transports en commun ( train, bus) mais que vu mon âge, je ne suis plus un routard. Peut être moins bouger et m'attarder plus sur chaque endroit? En tout les cas je te remercie pour tous tes conseils car cela fait plusieurs moi que tu réponds clairement à toutes mes questions😉
Ce que tu dis fait " froid dans le dos"
C'est que j'arrive la matin à Madras et que je me disais que j'avais le temps d'arriver tranquillement par bus à Mallamapuram. Mais si tu dis que c'est l'enfer...😕
En définitive, à ton avis, en Inde, il vaut mieux renoncer aux transports en commun? Je compte faire un circuit dans le Talmil Nadu...Si tu as des infos pour moi sur les moyens de transport en commun dans cette région, car je voyage seul et si je ne prends que des taxis cela rallonge le prix du voyage. Sais tu s'il existe en Inde comme en Thailande ces chauffeurs qui prennent plusieurs voyageurs dans leur taxis, ce qui permet d'avoir des prix moindres. En Thailande ils font cela avec des voitures 4X4 japonaises spacieuses (genre Pick up ou fourgonnettes )? L'avantage du taxi est quand on voyage à deux ou trois, mais tout seul le taxi cela me parait le...grand luxe Non ?? Enfin ta réponse me permet de reconsidérer ma "logistique" C'est que d'une manière générale j'aime bien les transports en commun ( train, bus) mais que vu mon âge, je ne suis plus un routard. Peut être moins bouger et m'attarder plus sur chaque endroit? En tout les cas je te remercie pour tous tes conseils car cela fait plusieurs moi que tu réponds clairement à toutes mes questions😉
Les bus indiens plaisent à beaucoup de monde et te plairont peut-être aussi. Mais pour une arrivée nocturne, qu'on est chargé de bagages, fatigué, quand on ne parle pas tamoul, et qu'on ne connait rien, il vaut mieux choisir la facilité et le confort.
Si tu trouves des gens pour partager ton taxi, pas de problème. Lui, il fait payer le prix au kilométrage.
Une fois reposé et acclimaté, tu auras tout loisir d'essayer les transports en commun.
Si tu trouves des gens pour partager ton taxi, pas de problème. Lui, il fait payer le prix au kilométrage.
Une fois reposé et acclimaté, tu auras tout loisir d'essayer les transports en commun.
Si tu ouvres tes yeux d'enfant, le voyage commence au seuil de ta maison
😉 merci. J'ai pris bonnes notes
merci.
Pour l'hôtel a Mamallapuram, lequel pourrais-tu me conseiller? Peut on réserver de France?. Sachant qu'en juillet il s'agit de la basse saison en Inde les hotels sont-ils toujours aussi pleins?
Sinon si tu as des tuyaux pour visiter ou faire a Mamallapuram ils seront les bienvenus.
Combien de temps faut-il pour bien apprécier cette ville ?
De l'aéroport de Chennai à Mamallapuram, il ne faut pas plus d'1h30 (50km).
Pour l'INDE, c'est un village, mais ça peut constituer un palier pour s'adapter à l'INDE.
Il y a pas mal de sites à visiter, mais en 2 ou 3 jours on en a fait le tour, sauf si tu veux faire du farniente.
Quant au choix des hôtels, il est large et à tous les prix. En juillet, il ne doit pas y avoir de problème donc pas la peine de réserver.
On y a aidé un petit village de pêcheurs qui se trouve tout prés aprés le tsunami en leur finaçant bâteaux et moteurs et on retourne les voir chaque année.
Je vois le monde un peu comme on voit l'incroyable, L'incroyable c'est ça c'est ce qu'on ne voit pas (Léo Ferré)
http://2010inde.canalblog.com/ et http://2011inde.canalblog.com/ et
http://2012inde.canalblog.com/
Merci Lulu😉
Pour le petit village de pêcheur, quel est son nom ? j'aimerais le visiter
Bonsoir,
L'été dernier, je suis arrive tot le matin de paris à l'aeroport de Madras vers 4-5 h
et avec une autre touriste qui allait vers pondichery on a chacun pris un bus a partir
de l'aeroport. En bref, on est sorti de l'aeroport par l'entree principale puis traverse le parking en face
traverse la route, marche environ 200-400 m vers la droite jusqu'a un arret de bus, de la elle a pris
un bus pour pondichery et moi j'ai du d'abord prendre un bus pour TAMBARAM (en roulant le r... Tambaram est aussi un arret de train) qui doit se situer a environ 2-3 km (j'ai attendu environ 20 min donc il doit y en avoir tres souvent) avec l'aide bien sur d'une ou deux personnes qui attendaient a l'arret car de toute facon impossible de comprendre les numeros des bus seul.
De la, un peu a gauche de l'arret en retrait il y a aussi une station de bus avec un panneau indiquant le depart pour mamallapuram et un guichet, il y a des bus tres regulierement. Le trajet a dure 2 h environ et je suis arrive vers 8 h du matin a mamallapuram ce qui tres suffisant pour trouver un hotel (j'en ai visite plusieurs arrivant si tot...) les deux presque pleins que j'ai visite etaient le sea breeze et green woods beach resort voir lonely planet, les autres vides. En Juillet-Aout les hotels ou j'ai dormi etaient en general peu rempli sauf bien sur les hotels se trouvant dans les guides qui etaient parfois pleins mais si tu vas dans un hotel juste a cote non reference il est en general vide.
Mamallapuram est quand meme tres touristique mais apres le vol en avion j'ai bien apprecie d'arriver dans une petite ville relativement calme et qui se parcoure aisement a pied, j'ai dormi deux nuits sur place preferant passer plus de temps a pondichery, aux alentours et apres. Bon voyage !
De la, un peu a gauche de l'arret en retrait il y a aussi une station de bus avec un panneau indiquant le depart pour mamallapuram et un guichet, il y a des bus tres regulierement. Le trajet a dure 2 h environ et je suis arrive vers 8 h du matin a mamallapuram ce qui tres suffisant pour trouver un hotel (j'en ai visite plusieurs arrivant si tot...) les deux presque pleins que j'ai visite etaient le sea breeze et green woods beach resort voir lonely planet, les autres vides. En Juillet-Aout les hotels ou j'ai dormi etaient en general peu rempli sauf bien sur les hotels se trouvant dans les guides qui etaient parfois pleins mais si tu vas dans un hotel juste a cote non reference il est en general vide.
Mamallapuram est quand meme tres touristique mais apres le vol en avion j'ai bien apprecie d'arriver dans une petite ville relativement calme et qui se parcoure aisement a pied, j'ai dormi deux nuits sur place preferant passer plus de temps a pondichery, aux alentours et apres. Bon voyage !
Ce petit village de pêcheurs s'appelle New Nemelli Kuppam et il est situé à côté des Tiges Caves, c'est à dire 2 ou 3 km avant Mamallapuram.
Nous devons également prendre en charge la scolarité de 2 enfants de ce village.
Tu peux visiter le site de notre association : www.divya.fr
Je vois le monde un peu comme on voit l'incroyable, L'incroyable c'est ça c'est ce qu'on ne voit pas (Léo Ferré)
http://2010inde.canalblog.com/ et http://2011inde.canalblog.com/ et
http://2012inde.canalblog.com/
Merci pour toutes ces précisions.
En définitive, l'arrêt de bus qui se trouve à 200 mètres de l'aéroport, permet de prendre un bus vers une autre station de bus nommée Tambaram et de là on prend un autre bus pour Mamallapuram ( ou un train ?) Car tu dis que c'est aussi une gare.
C'est bien cela?
Cela m'a l'air donc surmontable car j'arrive à 8 heures 05 à Madras.
Autre question, comme tu m'a dit que tu étais en juillet a Mamallapuram, et que j'y serais à compter du 11 juillet également me conseillerais-tu une chambre climatisée pour l'hôtel? Comment sont les nuits du point de vue de la température mais aussi du bruit à cette époque?
Ou un ventilateur est -il suffisant?
Du point de vue des prises électriques faut-il un adaptateur spécial pour recharger une batterie de caméra par exemple ?
Merci. J'irai donc faire un tour à "New Nemelli Kuppam". Est-il possible d' accompagner les pêcheurs un matin en mer ?
Autre question .J'ai lu dans le lonely planète qu'il était conseillé de louer un vélo pour visiter la ville et ses alentours et j'aime bien visiter avec ce moyen de locomotion ou avec vélomoteur mais je ne sais pas s'il en est loué dans cette ville. Est-ce possible de se rendre à vélo dans ce village situé à 3 kilomètres ?
Autre question .J'ai lu dans le lonely planète qu'il était conseillé de louer un vélo pour visiter la ville et ses alentours et j'aime bien visiter avec ce moyen de locomotion ou avec vélomoteur mais je ne sais pas s'il en est loué dans cette ville. Est-ce possible de se rendre à vélo dans ce village situé à 3 kilomètres ?
Il est tout à fait possible de louer un vélo à Mamallapuram, et, effectivement, tu peux aller à ce village en vélo.
De même, je pense qu'il est possible d'aller faire un tour en mer avec les pêcheurs à condition de se lever trés tôt peut être sur un des bâteaux qu'on leur a acheté aprés le tsunami.
Je vois le monde un peu comme on voit l'incroyable, L'incroyable c'est ça c'est ce qu'on ne voit pas (Léo Ferré)
http://2010inde.canalblog.com/ et http://2011inde.canalblog.com/ et
http://2012inde.canalblog.com/
Sur les hotels à Mamallapuram:
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/hotel_mahabalipuram_inde_D896964/
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/aeroport_chennai_mamallapuram_inde_D64974/
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/hotel_mahabalipuram_inde_D896964/
http://voyageforum.com/voyage/aeroport_chennai_mamallapuram_inde_D64974/
Si tu ouvres tes yeux d'enfant, le voyage commence au seuil de ta maison
Salut,
c'est bien cela, tres tot le matin (donc il faisait encore nuit) on est sorti de l'aeroport atteint la route en face
la traverse puis marche un peu vers droite puis arret de bus demande Tambara(m) puis apres 5-10 min arrive a tambaram puis bus vers mammallapuram. Il faut bien sur se faire aider par des personnes attendant a l'arret car tout est ecrit en general en Tamoul... Les bus sont assez rustiques mais cela fait partie du charme et si tu te sens fatigue apres le vol d'avion tu peux prendre un taxi qui est quand meme plus pratique. Je ne crois pas qu'il y est une gare ferroviaire a mammallapuram.
Pour ce qui est de la chambre avec clim tout depend de toi, personnellement je n'en ai jamais pris, un ventilo me suffisait mais il fait tres chaud sur place sans doute superieur a 35 degre Celsius la journee, la nuit ca doit baisse un petit peu. Apres si tu vas sur les ghats ou au kerala il fait beaucoup plus frais... Pour les prises electriques aucune idee mon appareil marche avec des piles.
Pour la location de velo, moi j'adore car cela me permet d'aller en dehors des villes pour la journee, dans la campagne environnante, je loue des que je peux un velo (sauf a mammallapuram) pour trouver c'est tres simple, soit avec un guide de voyage, soit tu vois avec une personne ou tu dors, soit si il n'y pas de boutiques visibles de location tu cherches dans la ville un reparateur de velo et meme si au premier coup d'oeil ce n'est pas visible, il loue souvent des velos ou pourra te louer le sien ; a noter que lorsque cela monte (ghats) j'ai souffert car il n'y a qu'une vitesse... Bonne route (a velo).
Pour ce qui est de la chambre avec clim tout depend de toi, personnellement je n'en ai jamais pris, un ventilo me suffisait mais il fait tres chaud sur place sans doute superieur a 35 degre Celsius la journee, la nuit ca doit baisse un petit peu. Apres si tu vas sur les ghats ou au kerala il fait beaucoup plus frais... Pour les prises electriques aucune idee mon appareil marche avec des piles.
Pour la location de velo, moi j'adore car cela me permet d'aller en dehors des villes pour la journee, dans la campagne environnante, je loue des que je peux un velo (sauf a mammallapuram) pour trouver c'est tres simple, soit avec un guide de voyage, soit tu vois avec une personne ou tu dors, soit si il n'y pas de boutiques visibles de location tu cherches dans la ville un reparateur de velo et meme si au premier coup d'oeil ce n'est pas visible, il loue souvent des velos ou pourra te louer le sien ; a noter que lorsque cela monte (ghats) j'ai souffert car il n'y a qu'une vitesse... Bonne route (a velo).
merci tour est bien noté😉
Bonsoir
Oui le bus existe, il suffit de traverser le parking et ensuite tu arrives sur une autoroute. Tu traverses encore la première voie et tu remontes sur 100 mètres à droite pour rejoindre l'arrêt de bus pour Mahabalipuram ( ne cherche ni passage à piétons ni pont pour traverser cette autoroute il n'y en a pas.. C'est hallucinant... Mais après avoir attendu un moment ce bus et débarquant pour la première fois en Inde je fus surpris par la circulation trépidante et le manque de sécurité car il n'y a pas de trottoir et nous étions frôlés par les camions et les voitures le tout dans un bruit assourdissant et une chaleur suffocante et bien sûr la surpopulation aux alentours de l'aéroport. Maintenant avec l'expérience je l'aurais pris ce bus... Et je vais te dire pourquoi.
Donc j'ai rebroussé chemin et suis retourné vers le hall de l'aéroport et vers le guichet des taxis prépaid. mais là attention... Lorsque tu payes ( 800 roupies) pour réserver ne laisse personne te conduire vers un taxi. C'est ce que j'ai fait ( hélas), un rabatteur m'a tout de suite pris mon ticket des mains et m'a conduit vers un taxi. J'ai cru que c'était normal or par la suite je me suis rendu compte qu'il m'avait conduit vers 2 jeunes indiens assez bizarres . Tour d'abord ils m'ont fait payer (ils étaient 2 : le chauffeur et son acolyte) les frais d'autoroute, ensuite des frais pour entrer dans cette même ville, ensuite ils ont tenté de me braquer le sac avec ma caméra .. je m'en suis rendu compte ( entre temps ils ont voulu me faire prendre une chambre d'hôtel à 3000 roupies dans un établissement minable de mahabalipuram). Bref j'ai eu du mal à m'en défaire et cela m'a coûté 1500 roupies car il fallait aussi payer le collègue du chauffeur. Bien sûr débarquant pour la première fois en Inde tu peux représenter une proie facile. Ayant raconté par la suite cette aventure à des indiens ( honnêtes) ils m'ont confirmé cette délinquance aux alentours de l'aéroport de Madras et à Madras même.
Alors voilà mon conseil, si tu te sens en forme à la sortie de l'aéroport d'affronter la chaleur, le bruit et la foule, prends le bus cela sera une super expérience de choisir bus, c'est un moyen de locomotion chaleureux, fantaisiste et propice à plein de rencontres ( et plus rapide que le train) Maintenant si tu es fatigué et bien prends le taxi prépaid mais veille a ce qu'aucun rabatteur ne te conduise vers un taxi. Tu prends ton ticket tu sors ils sont garés en face, ils sont tous noirs et tu choisis ton véhicule et tu restes ferme ( tu ne dois rien payer de plus) seulement un pourboire à la fin si tu veux pour le chauffeur.
Voilà c'est cela aussi l'Inde, mais cette aventure désagréable n'est rien comparée a toutes les expériences positives qu'a pu m' offrir ce pays ! Mahabalipuram est une ville touristique mais assez attachante . Voilà n'hésite pas pour tout autre renseignement.
Oui le bus existe, il suffit de traverser le parking et ensuite tu arrives sur une autoroute. Tu traverses encore la première voie et tu remontes sur 100 mètres à droite pour rejoindre l'arrêt de bus pour Mahabalipuram ( ne cherche ni passage à piétons ni pont pour traverser cette autoroute il n'y en a pas.. C'est hallucinant... Mais après avoir attendu un moment ce bus et débarquant pour la première fois en Inde je fus surpris par la circulation trépidante et le manque de sécurité car il n'y a pas de trottoir et nous étions frôlés par les camions et les voitures le tout dans un bruit assourdissant et une chaleur suffocante et bien sûr la surpopulation aux alentours de l'aéroport. Maintenant avec l'expérience je l'aurais pris ce bus... Et je vais te dire pourquoi.
Donc j'ai rebroussé chemin et suis retourné vers le hall de l'aéroport et vers le guichet des taxis prépaid. mais là attention... Lorsque tu payes ( 800 roupies) pour réserver ne laisse personne te conduire vers un taxi. C'est ce que j'ai fait ( hélas), un rabatteur m'a tout de suite pris mon ticket des mains et m'a conduit vers un taxi. J'ai cru que c'était normal or par la suite je me suis rendu compte qu'il m'avait conduit vers 2 jeunes indiens assez bizarres . Tour d'abord ils m'ont fait payer (ils étaient 2 : le chauffeur et son acolyte) les frais d'autoroute, ensuite des frais pour entrer dans cette même ville, ensuite ils ont tenté de me braquer le sac avec ma caméra .. je m'en suis rendu compte ( entre temps ils ont voulu me faire prendre une chambre d'hôtel à 3000 roupies dans un établissement minable de mahabalipuram). Bref j'ai eu du mal à m'en défaire et cela m'a coûté 1500 roupies car il fallait aussi payer le collègue du chauffeur. Bien sûr débarquant pour la première fois en Inde tu peux représenter une proie facile. Ayant raconté par la suite cette aventure à des indiens ( honnêtes) ils m'ont confirmé cette délinquance aux alentours de l'aéroport de Madras et à Madras même.
Alors voilà mon conseil, si tu te sens en forme à la sortie de l'aéroport d'affronter la chaleur, le bruit et la foule, prends le bus cela sera une super expérience de choisir bus, c'est un moyen de locomotion chaleureux, fantaisiste et propice à plein de rencontres ( et plus rapide que le train) Maintenant si tu es fatigué et bien prends le taxi prépaid mais veille a ce qu'aucun rabatteur ne te conduise vers un taxi. Tu prends ton ticket tu sors ils sont garés en face, ils sont tous noirs et tu choisis ton véhicule et tu restes ferme ( tu ne dois rien payer de plus) seulement un pourboire à la fin si tu veux pour le chauffeur.
Voilà c'est cela aussi l'Inde, mais cette aventure désagréable n'est rien comparée a toutes les expériences positives qu'a pu m' offrir ce pays ! Mahabalipuram est une ville touristique mais assez attachante . Voilà n'hésite pas pour tout autre renseignement.
Entièrement d'accord, je l'ai fait il y a un an c'est une belle route :
De Chennai à Pondichéry :
Les salines 
Paysages N'est ce pas ? ...
De Chennai à Pondichéry :
Les salines Paysages N'est ce pas ? ...Carpe Diem
Oui, c'est bien cela que j'évoquais dans le message du 21 avril 2007... 🙂
Si tu ouvres tes yeux d'enfant, le voyage commence au seuil de ta maison
bonjour
généralement, où que l'on se trouve en inde, on n'a pas longtemps à attendre pour qu'un chauffeur de taxi ou de touc touc vienne vous demander où vous voulez aller... alors ça peut se révéler un peu pénible à la longue, mais dans le cas très précis du voyage chennai -> mamallapuram, et grâce en plus à l'aide d'un type qui bossait à l'aéroport, j'ai pu trouver le bus stand. il me semble me rappeler qu'il y en avait bien pour un quart d'heure de rick-shaw (peut-être plus, je me souviens juste que le touc touc est tombé en panne au beau milieu de la route... et a eu beaucoup de mal à redémarrer...).
moralité : quand on est paumé, toujours demander aux gens autour de soi ! ne pas hésiter à demander à plusieurs personnes, histoire d'être sûr. et tu tomberas sans doute sur quelqu'un qui saura t'expliquer tout ce qu'il faut !
on n'est jamais tout seul en inde...
généralement, où que l'on se trouve en inde, on n'a pas longtemps à attendre pour qu'un chauffeur de taxi ou de touc touc vienne vous demander où vous voulez aller... alors ça peut se révéler un peu pénible à la longue, mais dans le cas très précis du voyage chennai -> mamallapuram, et grâce en plus à l'aide d'un type qui bossait à l'aéroport, j'ai pu trouver le bus stand. il me semble me rappeler qu'il y en avait bien pour un quart d'heure de rick-shaw (peut-être plus, je me souviens juste que le touc touc est tombé en panne au beau milieu de la route... et a eu beaucoup de mal à redémarrer...).
moralité : quand on est paumé, toujours demander aux gens autour de soi ! ne pas hésiter à demander à plusieurs personnes, histoire d'être sûr. et tu tomberas sans doute sur quelqu'un qui saura t'expliquer tout ce qu'il faut !
on n'est jamais tout seul en inde...
Bonsoir,
merci milles fois pour tes conseils. Je m'attends en effet à "souffrir" un peu lors de mon arrivée à 5h du mat'... mais ça peut faire une bonne introduction... Connais tu un hotel ni trop pourri ni "hors de prix" sur mamalapuram ? Au plaisir de lire tes récits de voyage,
merci milles fois pour tes conseils. Je m'attends en effet à "souffrir" un peu lors de mon arrivée à 5h du mat'... mais ça peut faire une bonne introduction... Connais tu un hotel ni trop pourri ni "hors de prix" sur mamalapuram ? Au plaisir de lire tes récits de voyage,
bonjour
Alors je ne souviens plus du nom de l'Hôtel ou je suis resté à Mahabalipuram.
Mais il est facile à retrouver. premièrement il se trouve sur l'artère perpendiculaire qui mène à la plage ou se trouvent d'ailleurs presque tous les hotels et qui est Othavadai road ( rue tranquille).
C'est une guest house qui dépend et qui se trouve juste au dessus d'un resto sympa tenu par un français et qui s'appelle le Nautilus.
En face se trouve l'hôtel Lakshmi lodge dont les chauffeurs de taxi verreux de Madras m'avait soi disant négocié une chambre climatisée à 3000 roupies.. mais que je te déconseille car les chambres donnent toutes sur une cour intérieure, l'ensemble est assez bruyant et la soi disant piscine est affreuse ( à peine plus grande qu'une baignoire...)
Cette guest house ( au dessus du nautilus) offre des chambres spacieuses propres avec ou sans clim pour 300 ou 400 roupies très calmes. En plus tu n'a qu'à descendre pour aller au Nautilus et discuter avec des francais ( les proprio ou d'autres voyageurs). Cela peut paraitre idiot mais qu'en tu arrives en Inde et même à Mahaballipuram tu perds tous tes repères et cela réconforte de parler un peu en francais et d'échanger des expériences. C'est ce que j'ai fait avec d'autres voyageurs avec qui d'ailleurs j'ai fait un bout de chemin jusqu'à Madurai et Kodakkanail.
Sinon Mahabalipuram est une ville très animée le soir et il y a de bons restaus sur la plage. La plage (plus a droite des pecheurs) est d'ailleurs magnifique on peut y louer des chevaux mais négocie le prix à fond .C'est une bonne première étape avant d'aller dans l'Inde plus authentique. Une rue est consacrée aux sculpteurs sur granit.
Cette guest house ( au dessus du nautilus) offre des chambres spacieuses propres avec ou sans clim pour 300 ou 400 roupies très calmes. En plus tu n'a qu'à descendre pour aller au Nautilus et discuter avec des francais ( les proprio ou d'autres voyageurs). Cela peut paraitre idiot mais qu'en tu arrives en Inde et même à Mahaballipuram tu perds tous tes repères et cela réconforte de parler un peu en francais et d'échanger des expériences. C'est ce que j'ai fait avec d'autres voyageurs avec qui d'ailleurs j'ai fait un bout de chemin jusqu'à Madurai et Kodakkanail.
Sinon Mahabalipuram est une ville très animée le soir et il y a de bons restaus sur la plage. La plage (plus a droite des pecheurs) est d'ailleurs magnifique on peut y louer des chevaux mais négocie le prix à fond .C'est une bonne première étape avant d'aller dans l'Inde plus authentique. Une rue est consacrée aux sculpteurs sur granit.
Bonjour.
Ne te fie pas à ce journal de bord, c'était mes impressions à "froid" car je n'avais aucune expérience de L'Inde et en plus je voyageais seul.
Maintenant je pense différemment (d'ailleurs j'aimerais savoir comment on enlève ce journal de bord que V F a associé à mon profil alors que je l'avais placé dans la section "' Carnet de voyage". ..
Sur le moment je ne voyais que ce qui me choquais et après la mémoire fait un tri et j'ai oublié tout ce que j'avais consigné dans mes notes pour ne conserver que des sensations très positives.
Il faut savoir que lorsque tu es en Inde oublie ta façon de vivre en France car rien ne te le rappeleras.
C'était mon erreur evidemment ainsi je n'étais pas à l'aise.
Voyager en Inde est une expérience unique
Tiens nous au courant et bon voyage
bonjour
pour très bien manger pour pas trop cher, je te conseille le "rose corner". je me souviens y avoir passé une bonne soirée lors de mon séjour à mamallapuram. j'avais été attiré par la musique des beatles depuis la rue, je suis monté, et je suis tombé sur un petit resto vraiment très bien. bonne ambiance. j'ai discuté pendant un moment avec un type qui y bosse (je ne me rappelle plus si c'était le patron), il s'appelle logan, vraiment très très sympa... (un type assez jeune, avec des cheveux longs, qui nous avait longuement parlé de sa french girlfriend... et donné quelques conseils sur la suite du programme.)
sinon, je ne me rappelle plus du nom de l'hôtel où j'avais logé, je me rappelle juste qu'il était à droite (quand on est face à la mer), et tu y verras toutes une séries de sculptures plus ou moins kitsch (non, franchement kitsch), en hommage aux victimes du tsunami. une chambre immense et vraiment super confort. un peu cher, certes, environ 1000 roupies / nuit... bon, de temps en temps, quoi, ce genre de chambre... service pas franchement top par contre, mais c'était confortable, voui...
et le bon plan c'est de louer une mobylette / un vélo (250 ou 300 roupies / jour la moped, avec deux litres d'essence dans le réservoir), pour visiter la région très proche en toute autonomie. tu pourras aller à "crocodile bank" ou les villages alentours, en t'arrêtant quand tu veux et le temps que tu veux. très agréable, même s'il faut être particulièrement prudent sur les routes indiennes ! c'est le plus gros qui a toujours raison, mais les plus petits ne se laissent jamais faire ! épique...
bons voyages !
el concombre
pour très bien manger pour pas trop cher, je te conseille le "rose corner". je me souviens y avoir passé une bonne soirée lors de mon séjour à mamallapuram. j'avais été attiré par la musique des beatles depuis la rue, je suis monté, et je suis tombé sur un petit resto vraiment très bien. bonne ambiance. j'ai discuté pendant un moment avec un type qui y bosse (je ne me rappelle plus si c'était le patron), il s'appelle logan, vraiment très très sympa... (un type assez jeune, avec des cheveux longs, qui nous avait longuement parlé de sa french girlfriend... et donné quelques conseils sur la suite du programme.)
sinon, je ne me rappelle plus du nom de l'hôtel où j'avais logé, je me rappelle juste qu'il était à droite (quand on est face à la mer), et tu y verras toutes une séries de sculptures plus ou moins kitsch (non, franchement kitsch), en hommage aux victimes du tsunami. une chambre immense et vraiment super confort. un peu cher, certes, environ 1000 roupies / nuit... bon, de temps en temps, quoi, ce genre de chambre... service pas franchement top par contre, mais c'était confortable, voui...
et le bon plan c'est de louer une mobylette / un vélo (250 ou 300 roupies / jour la moped, avec deux litres d'essence dans le réservoir), pour visiter la région très proche en toute autonomie. tu pourras aller à "crocodile bank" ou les villages alentours, en t'arrêtant quand tu veux et le temps que tu veux. très agréable, même s'il faut être particulièrement prudent sur les routes indiennes ! c'est le plus gros qui a toujours raison, mais les plus petits ne se laissent jamais faire ! épique...
bons voyages !
el concombre
oui j'ai bien vu à la suite de ton voyage que tu avais mis les pendules à l'heure indienne et que tu le vivais bien mieux du coup ! La fatigue, la chaleur, le stress, un petit coup de mou et ça repart.
Je tâcherai de poster un compte-rendu de mon voyage début septembre.
merci encore à la communauté de VF !
bonjour
pour très bien manger pour pas trop cher, je te conseille le "rose corner".
un resto tres peu connu mais peut etre le meilleur - categorie "thalis" etc - un peu en dehors de Mamalla sur la route vers Chennai (coté gauche, a 1-2 km de la ville) c'est ici : http://wikimapia.org/#lat=12.6263045&lon=80.1941657&z=18&l=2&m=a&v=2
on peut aller a pied (soleil...) ou en motorikshaw
e x c e l l e n t !!!
un autre, le top pour les carnivores c'est par la : (a coté du marché aux poissons) http://wikimapia.org/#lat=12.6215461&lon=80.1948255&z=18&l=2&m=a&v=2
coté resto, je pense que ce sont 2 meilleures adresses a Mamallapuram
pour très bien manger pour pas trop cher, je te conseille le "rose corner".
un resto tres peu connu mais peut etre le meilleur - categorie "thalis" etc - un peu en dehors de Mamalla sur la route vers Chennai (coté gauche, a 1-2 km de la ville) c'est ici : http://wikimapia.org/#lat=12.6263045&lon=80.1941657&z=18&l=2&m=a&v=2
on peut aller a pied (soleil...) ou en motorikshaw
e x c e l l e n t !!!
un autre, le top pour les carnivores c'est par la : (a coté du marché aux poissons) http://wikimapia.org/#lat=12.6215461&lon=80.1948255&z=18&l=2&m=a&v=2
coté resto, je pense que ce sont 2 meilleures adresses a Mamallapuram
"j'avais été attiré par la musique des beatles depuis la rue, "
Oui, je crois que Georges Harrison descendait à Mahabalipuram lorsqu'il venait en Inde dans les années 70. A vérifier mais ce qu'on m'a dit là bas et que j'ai lu aussi sur des biographies du musicien.
Oui, je crois que Georges Harrison descendait à Mahabalipuram lorsqu'il venait en Inde dans les années 70. A vérifier mais ce qu'on m'a dit là bas et que j'ai lu aussi sur des biographies du musicien.
oui je viens de vérifier sur un site consacré aux beatles :
"A 140 km au Nord de Pondichery, se trouve Mamallapuram. Ce fut une des étapes (avec Rishikesh) du séjour des Beatles en Inde en 1968. On retrouve dans l'oeuvre des 4 de Liverpool de nombreuses traces de l'influence Indienne. Voyons le déroulement de ce séjour qui se termina rapidement mais qui ouvrit toute une génération à la culture indienne tant à l'époque était grande l'influence des Beatles sur la jeunesse anglo-saxonne."
"A 140 km au Nord de Pondichery, se trouve Mamallapuram. Ce fut une des étapes (avec Rishikesh) du séjour des Beatles en Inde en 1968. On retrouve dans l'oeuvre des 4 de Liverpool de nombreuses traces de l'influence Indienne. Voyons le déroulement de ce séjour qui se termina rapidement mais qui ouvrit toute une génération à la culture indienne tant à l'époque était grande l'influence des Beatles sur la jeunesse anglo-saxonne."
merci pour ta réponse. Je m'en vais poser une question un peu sotte : est-ce que je risque de me faire regarder de travers en tant que femme occidentale seule si je loue une moto ? ou pas ? (à question sotte, réponse idiote j'imagine :-)
en Inde on voit tres souvent les femmes conduire une moto-scooter, meme avec un homme derriere. par contre, "se faire regarder de travers", c'est obligé, meme sans une moto. une femme occidentale c'est toujours "une attraction" pour les hommes indiens; apres, tout depends aussi de son comportement et tenue vestimentaire...
pas besoin d'aller en Inde pour fantasmer sur une femme qui chevauche une moto 😛
voila une reponse un peu ... idiote (?)
en Inde on voit tres souvent les femmes conduire une moto-scooter, meme avec un homme derriere. par contre, "se faire regarder de travers", c'est obligé, meme sans une moto. une femme occidentale c'est toujours "une attraction" pour les hommes indiens; apres, tout depends aussi de son comportement et tenue vestimentaire...
pas besoin d'aller en Inde pour fantasmer sur une femme qui chevauche une moto 😛
voila une reponse un peu ... idiote (?)
je dois dire que je n'ai pas vu aussi souvent que toi de femmes sur des motos avec des hommes derrière... s'il y avait deux personnes sur une moto ou un scooter, c'était quand même généralement le mec qui conduisait...
par contre, après m'être posé la question pendant au mois 2 mois, j'ai eu la réponse :
il y a bien des rickshawwomen... c'est en tout cas la seule que j'aie vu... (à coimbatore)
enfin bon, le féminisme va-t-il se planquer par là aussi ?😊😊😊
par contre, après m'être posé la question pendant au mois 2 mois, j'ai eu la réponse :
il y a bien des rickshawwomen... c'est en tout cas la seule que j'aie vu... (à coimbatore)
enfin bon, le féminisme va-t-il se planquer par là aussi ?😊😊😊
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Practical tips from my 105 days of erratic wandering in India
Day 1 (10/10/2006): arrived in Mumbai around noon. Bus No. 338 5 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) 20' to Andheri station. Train 6 Rs to Dadar. Train 41 Rs to Lonavla 2h30 Hotel Chandralok 500 Rs **
Day 2: bike rental 7 Rs/h (too expensive, normal price 2-3 Rs/h) visit to the caves of Bhaja and Karla.
Day 3: train 28 Rs to Pune 1h20 Hotel National 416 Rs *
Day 4: train 141 Rs (with reservation) to Satara 2h45 Hotel Sagar 364 Rs **
Day 5: bus 110 Rs to Pandharpur 4h Hotel Aishwarya 450 Rs ***
Day 6: bike rental 2 Rs/h
Day 7: bus 125 Rs to Ahmadnagar 4h20 Hotel Parijat 250 Rs *
Day 8: train 151 Rs (!ticket for a mini 600 km trip!) to Jalgaon 5h30 Hotel Plaza 200 Rs **
Day 9: round-trip bus 38 Rs to Ajanta 1h30 + shuttle 6 Rs 5' Site entrance 250 Rs
Day 10: train 47 Rs to Khandwa 3h + bus 40 Rs to Omkareshwar 2h Ganesh G.H. 150 Rs *
Day 11 to 13: Omkareshwar
Day 14: bus 35 Rs to Maheshwar 2h45 Akashdeep Rest House 200 Rs **
Day 15: bus 8 Rs to Dhamnod 20' bus 20 Rs to crossroads 14 km from Mandu 1h40 bus 9 Rs to Mandu 20' Ram Mandir Dharamshala 100 Rs + 5 Rs for hot water *
Day 16: bike rental 3 Rs/h
Day 17: bus 50 Rs to Indore 4h Hotel Neelam 209 Rs
Day 18 to 20: Indore + round-trip bus 30 Rs to Ujjain 1h45
Day 21: train 82 Rs to Bhopal 5h30 Hotel Ranjeet 358 Rs *
Day 22: train 10 Rs to Sanchi 1h20 Jaiswal Lodge 200 Rs + 15 Rs for hot water! *
Day 23 and 24: visit to Sanchi + bike rental to visit the caves of Udayagiri
Day 25: train 69 Rs to Jhansi 5h + tempo 5 Rs to bus station + tempo 10 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) to Orccha 25' Sri Mahant G.H. 200 Rs **
Day 26 and 27: bike rental + train 20 Rs to Datia 30' + bemo 6 Rs to city center. Return bus 15 Rs 1h15
Day 28: bus 100 Rs to Khajuraho 4h Yogi Lodge 150 Rs **
Day 29: bike rental 30 Rs/day to visit the temples
Day 30: bus 70 Rs to Satna 4h + train 56 Rs to Jabalpur 3h Hotel Banjara 350 Rs **
Day 31: bike rental 2 Rs/h and visit to the Marble Rocks (50 km round trip)
Day 32: bus 50 Rs to Mandla 3h Hotel Satyam 250 Rs ** Round-trip bus 15 Rs to Ramnagar 1h15
Day 33: bus 60 Rs to Dindori 4h + bus 45 Rs to Amarkantak 3h (hellish road) Sarvodya Lodge 250 Rs °
Day 34: Amarkantak
Day 35: bus 25 Rs to Pendra Road 1h30 + train 120 Rs + 109 Rs (reservation) to Nagpur 8h Hotel Grand 257 Rs **
Day 36 and 37: bike rental + round-trip 25 Rs to Ramtek 1h40
Day 38: train 141 Rs + 125 Rs to Hyderabad 10h Hotel 3 Castles 200 Rs ° + Hotel Suhail 200 Rs °
Day 39 to 41: stay in Hyderabad
Day 42: train 48 Rs to Warangal 3h30 Hotel Surya 410 Rs **
Day 43: 60 Rs to Vijayawada 4h15 Hotel Sindhuri 275 Rs **
Day 44: round-trip bus 21 Rs to Amaravati 2h
Day 45: train 98 Rs to Visakhapatnam 7h30! (normally 6h) Hotel Sri Sampath Residency 250 Rs **
Day 46: train 111 Rs + 95 Rs to Puri 11h30 Travellers Inn 100 Rs ° + Hotel Z 300 Rs ***
Day 47 to 52: Puri + round-trip to Konarak
Day 53: train 38 Rs to Bhubaneshwar 1h15 Hotel Upasana 275 Rs *
Day 54: train 70 Rs to Balasore 4h bus 26 Rs to Baripada 1h40 Hotel Ambika 225 Rs °
Day 55: bus 25 Rs to Balasore 1h40 train 66 Rs + 68 Rs to Calcutta 6h30 Hotel Paragon 270 Rs * Hotel Crystal 350 Rs **
Day 56 to 62: Calcutta
Day 63: 60 Rs to Bishnupur 5h Hotel Monalisa 200 Rs *
Day 64: stay in Bishnupur no bike rental!
Day 65: bus 20 Rs to Bankura 1h30 bus 20 Rs to Durgapur 1h15 bus 28 Rs to Bolpur 2h15 Hotel Nisa 150 Rs *
Day 66 and 67: visit to Bolpur/Shantiniketan. Refused bike rental at ... 100 Rs/day!!! (Communist state of Bengal!!!)
Day 68: bus 20 Rs to Sainthia bus 35 Rs to Baharampur 4h30 bus 7 Rs to Murshidabad 40' Hotel Manjusha 350 Rs **
Day 69: bike lent by the friendly hotel owner and visit to Murshidabad
Day 70: bus 8 Rs to Baharampur 35' bus 60 Rs to Malda 6h (hellish road) Hotel Pratapaditya 231 Rs **
Day 71: train 66 Rs + 70 Rs to New Jalpaiguri 4h Hotel Holydon 250 Rs °
Day 72: train 52 Rs to Darjeeling 9h30! (normally 7h) Hotel Pineridge 500 Rs **
Day 73 to 75: Darjeeling
Day 76: train to New Jalpaiguri 9h30 + overnight train 271 Rs
Day 77: Patna Hotel President 482 Rs **
Day 78: stay in Patna
Day 79: train 18 Rs to Gaya 3h10 tempo 10 Rs to Bodhgaya 30' Deep G.H. 400 Rs!! °°
Day 80: return to Patna
Day 81: round-trip train 36 Rs to Rajgir 4h! (normally 3h)
Day 82: train 75 Rs to Varanasi 5h! (normally 4h) Yogi Lodge 150 Rs *
Day 83 to 87: Varanasi
Day 88: overnight train 310 Rs to Jaipur Evergreen G.H. 250 Rs **
Day 89: bike rental 30 Rs/day round-trip to Amber
Day 90: bus 59 Rs to Sikar 2h30 bus 23 Rs to Fatehpur 1h30 Rajshri Rest House 300 Rs *
Day 91: round-trip bus 12 Rs to Mandawa 30'
Day 92: round-trip bus 17 Rs to Churu 1h30
Day 93: bus 80 Rs to Jaipur 3h30 Evergreen G.H.
Day 94: bus 105 Rs to Bundi 5h30 Shivam G.H. 200 Rs **
Day 95: bike rental 3 Rs/h
Day 96: auto-rickshaw to station 45 Rs 25' train 44 Rs + 50 Rs to Chittorgarh train 21 Rs to Udaipur (total trip 8h) Badi Haveli 330 Rs **
Day 97 to 99: Udaipur + round-trip bus 45 Rs to Ranakpur 3h30
Day 100: bus 143 Rs to Ahmedabad 5h30 Hotel Manila 300 Rs **
Day 101: Ahmedabad
Day 102: bus 99 Rs to Bhavnagar 4h30 Hotel Vrindavan 200 Rs *
Day 103: round-trip bus 22 Rs to Palitana 1h10
Day 104: bus 85 Rs! to Ahmedabad 5h30 + overnight train ? Rs (feels like the end of the trip!)
Day 105 (January 22, 2007): train 6 Rs from Dadar to Andheri 20' + bus 5 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) to International Airport 20'
More figures British Airways flight price Brussels-London-Mumbai-London-Brussels 576 € Exchange rate from 55 Rs to 58.6 Rs per euro Average room price 272 Rs/night Daily budget 11 € Chai from 1 Rs (Calcutta-Bengal) to 6/7 Rs (Rajasthan) Bottle of water from 6 Rs (Udaipur), 8 Rs (Varanasi) to 12/13 Rs Internet from 8 Rs (Warangal), 10 Rs (Calcutta, Indore, Hyderabad), 20 Rs (often) to 40/60 Rs!! (Rajasthan) Beer in a restaurant from 85/100 Rs (often) to 150/165 Rs (Varanasi/Udaipur) More details on request
More figures British Airways flight price Brussels-London-Mumbai-London-Brussels 576 € Exchange rate from 55 Rs to 58.6 Rs per euro Average room price 272 Rs/night Daily budget 11 € Chai from 1 Rs (Calcutta-Bengal) to 6/7 Rs (Rajasthan) Bottle of water from 6 Rs (Udaipur), 8 Rs (Varanasi) to 12/13 Rs Internet from 8 Rs (Warangal), 10 Rs (Calcutta, Indore, Hyderabad), 20 Rs (often) to 40/60 Rs!! (Rajasthan) Beer in a restaurant from 85/100 Rs (often) to 150/165 Rs (Varanasi/Udaipur) More details on request
Hello everyone,
we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago.
We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir.
We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).
Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians. To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...
His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).
We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.
Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €). We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...
I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple. Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.
We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...
I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.
Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians. To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...
His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).
We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.
Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €). We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...
I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple. Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.
We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...
I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.
Hi everyone!
I’m planning a short visit to Pokhara around mid-February 2027 (it’ll be my 4th time in Nepal 😊, over 40 years!). I’d like to book a room in advance rather than looking when I arrive. I’ve checked a bit on Bxxking.com and see lots of options. I’m used to scoping out the surroundings of places listed, just to avoid ending up in areas that are either unappealing or far from everything.
So, I see quite a few offers around the lake (Lakeside?), but every time I check what it looks like, the streets seem really uninviting. It’s kind of like a construction site with buildings everywhere… Nothing like Bhaktapur (for example) or even Thamel, where the streets seem way more pleasant.
Could anyone give me some advice?
Also, I don’t really get the impression that Pokhara is worth a visit of several days. The lake, sure, but once you’ve seen it—what else is there?
I’m planning a short visit to Pokhara around mid-February 2027 (it’ll be my 4th time in Nepal 😊, over 40 years!). I’d like to book a room in advance rather than looking when I arrive. I’ve checked a bit on Bxxking.com and see lots of options. I’m used to scoping out the surroundings of places listed, just to avoid ending up in areas that are either unappealing or far from everything.
So, I see quite a few offers around the lake (Lakeside?), but every time I check what it looks like, the streets seem really uninviting. It’s kind of like a construction site with buildings everywhere… Nothing like Bhaktapur (for example) or even Thamel, where the streets seem way more pleasant.
Could anyone give me some advice?
Also, I don’t really get the impression that Pokhara is worth a visit of several days. The lake, sure, but once you’ve seen it—what else is there?
Hi there. I’d like to know about accommodation options for unguided hikers. I see there are campsites—are the tents already set up, or do we need to bring our own? Same question for sleeping bags—ours are a bit tight, I think (comfort temp 0°C). Are blankets provided? I’m picturing a camp where everything’s taken care of, including meals, but I’m worried I might be mistaken...
Thanks in advance
Hello, we’re planning a trip to Kerala, in South India, in January/February 2027. We’ve chosen our cities but we’re looking for a French-speaking driver to take us from one city to another: Kochi - Athirappily - Munnar - Kumarakom - Marari - Kochi.
If you have any leads, please don’t hesitate.
Best regards
Hi there.
I’m used to traveling around Asia, especially India, and I’d love to explore Nepal for about two weeks, stopping in Calcutta.
Backpacking trip, local transport.
Departing from Lyon.
If you’ve got an adventurous spirit and don’t mind taking it slow, get in touch!
I don’t do treks, but I’m a strong walker.
See you soon
Hi there,
After a false start in March 2026 due to my Qatar flights being canceled, I’m rescheduling a trip to Kerala for November. Back in March, I’d booked and paid for the 2-day/1-night trek: Tiger Trail in Periyar National Park. Then I read some terrible reviews about the park. On VF, the reviews are old and don’t mention the Tiger Trail. So, before I book again (I’ve got time), has anyone done it recently and can share their experience and impressions? I’m specifically talking about the Tiger Trail, not the park’s jeep/boat activities, which seem more like an amusement park. Thanks
After a false start in March 2026 due to my Qatar flights being canceled, I’m rescheduling a trip to Kerala for November. Back in March, I’d booked and paid for the 2-day/1-night trek: Tiger Trail in Periyar National Park. Then I read some terrible reviews about the park. On VF, the reviews are old and don’t mention the Tiger Trail. So, before I book again (I’ve got time), has anyone done it recently and can share their experience and impressions? I’m specifically talking about the Tiger Trail, not the park’s jeep/boat activities, which seem more like an amusement park. Thanks
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Assam and I’d like to know what type of electrical adapter I need—is it M or D, or both?
Thanks
Hello,
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
Hi there, I think you're on the right track—you plan the itinerary and book the rooms in advance, and that’s it.
Not only do you save time, but you also know where you’ll be staying each night. Choosing well on Booking (or elsewhere) is actually a pleasure!
For safaris, given the number of jeeps with drivers available, it’s unlikely you’ll be turned away... the real issue is more about the concentration of jeeps around the animals.
I travel like you do—train, bus, tuk-tuk, and sometimes taxi. Ride-hailing apps like PickMe and other VTCs are mostly in big cities.
For the mountain train, due to severe flooding, service was interrupted on the line between Kandy and Ella. Check ahead, because reservations for this train are very complicated, if not impossible.
For the Colombo/Kandy train, you reserve your seats by buying the ticket before boarding. In the south, no need to book in advance for trains.
In Sri Lanka, there’s always a solution for getting around—just ask your hosts. They have trusted contacts at their fingertips. But still, compare prices—😏 smart move!
I stick to booking my nights and keep pre-planned activities to a minimum.
For reservations you can’t skip, it’s the beach stays you’ll want to secure.
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
It seems there’s a ferry from Nagapattinam to Jaffna in India. Has anyone here taken this ferry before? My main question is how to get to Nagapattinam—by train, bus? And from which town further south, of course.
Thanks, friends!
Gaston
Gaston
Hi there.
We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa.
We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee.
We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think?
As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access.
We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks, Marie
Hi there,
We just got back from a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka as a couple, and while planning the trip, we found plenty of info on the itinerary, places to see, and transportation, but much fewer clear reports on the actual budget to expect once there. Yet, that was an important point for us because we like to plan ahead a little before traveling.
So, we took the time to break down our complete budget after the trip. In our case, we spent around **930 € per person** for 2 weeks, being careful without depriving ourselves, mixing guesthouses, more comfortable hotels, quite a few activities, and even a private driver for part of the stay.
What we found interesting when crunching the numbers is that in Sri Lanka, it’s not necessarily meals or short trips that blow the budget, but rather flights, certain accommodations, cultural activities, and all those little expenses we sometimes forget, like tips.
If this can help other travelers get a better idea, we’ve put everything together on our blog with our experience, a detailed breakdown of expenses, and practical info on money while there, withdrawals, and tipping:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/budget-sri-lanka-pour-un-voyage-de-2-semaines/
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Hi everyone,
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi there,
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
Hey fellow travelers,
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
Hi,
I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
Hi everyone,
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
Hi,
I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Hi there,
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road?
Thanks
Hi there,
My wife and I are getting ready for this tour from March 27 to April 8.
I’d love to know if anyone’s traveled with Salaun Holidays before? How many people are usually in a group? How much cash should we bring?
We’re also unsure about what clothes to pack..... plus sheets and pillowcases?
And if you’ve got any tips to avoid being too bothered by beggars and touts.
Any advice you’ve got would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
I’d like to travel to Rajasthan and the Ganges Valley—it’s my first time going on a long-haul trip, and I’m thinking of booking with BTtours from Belgium (or Salaün in France). Has anyone here traveled with this agency before and can share their experience? I was planning to go around November, but some people tell me it might still be pretty cold (around 8°C)—is that true?
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
Hi there.
We’re heading to India at the end of December for a month.
I planned an itinerary: Delhi, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Bundi, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and back to Delhi.
Our driver told us it’s not possible because there are no roads.
He’s suggesting the usual tourist circuit, which we don’t want to do.
What do you think of my route?
Any tips?
Thanks, community!
Hello,
We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin.
We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan.
Thanks for your replies!
Yves