Trek in Norway: Jotunheimen and Dovrefjell, you’ll adapt to the rain...
FR

Translated into English. 2 replies on this page are not translated yet and are shown in French.

CA Calisson94 Veteran ·
Hello Jean Philippe,

It’s clear about the heatwave—we were so cold! The park is magnificent, so as soon as you get a bit of visibility, it becomes magical. Lots of Norwegians and/or Swedes (Nordic folks, anyway), some Germans, a few Anglophones. We didn’t run into any French people in Jotunheimen, except for a couple at the end who were doing a day hike (though there were quite a few in Dovrefjell).
CA Calisson94 Veteran ·
Tue 16/08 – Dovrefjell 1

Today was the last day local buses were running. That’s why, in any case, we would’ve made the transfer to Dovrefjell at the latest today.

At 9 AM, we took bus 201 to Lom, then after a 9-minute wait, the one to Otta. After that, it was the train to Kongsvoll, one of the gateways to Dovrefjell, where we arrived at 12:30 PM. There’s nothing around, but the little station is so colorful!



We then tackled the Musk Ox trail, a bit skeptical about spotting musk oxen on a trail with quite a few people.

The trail starts with a steep climb. Ugh, our packs are heavy—clearly, we didn’t optimize our supplies well! We followed the trail obediently, then veered off, but nothing—no furry creatures except horses getting photographed, probably as compensation.

We rejoined the path along the river and headed toward Reinheim hut.

We found a great spot above the river, our compensation being the stunning late-day light. But no horned animals, despite exploring the area.



Summary: 10 km – 465 m elevation gain

Wed 17/08 – Dovrefjell 2

The next day, we continued deeper into the park with pretty nice weather. The Snowhetta (the park’s highest peak) was in sight.



The trails here are easy—what a relief after the rocky terrain of Jotunheimen!

After an hour, still nothing.

Jean Marie suggested climbing to the right, saying, "If I were a bison, I’d hang out over there..." I hesitated to follow but eventually decided to, because that guy has a knack for spotting wildlife. We left our packs and started climbing. And bingo—he must’ve been a bison in another life because there was our first musk ox, a big lone male making his way up the slope.

We followed him at a safe distance—it was an amazing sight.



The park is full of hills and dips, so when you look up from the bottom of a hill, there can be quite a few hidden dips with musk oxen in them.

From there, it was game on—we saw plenty more, including a female with her young while descending from the big male,



beautiful groups in the distance on the other side of the river, groups on our side—it was a real show!



By mid-afternoon, we hadn’t even reached Reinheim hut because we’d wandered so much. But the wind was picking up, and bad weather was rolling in.

We pitched the tent behind a huge rock to shelter from the wind and took cover from the rain that started pouring down.



Around 6 PM, JM stepped out of the tent, and I saw him come right back, saying, "Come out slowly with your camera." And boom—a musk ox on the path, barely 50 meters away, calmly looking at us as it continued on its way.



Two hours later, another one on the other side of the tent!

Summary: 11 km – 445 m elevation gain and around 30 musk oxen!

Thu 18/08 – Dovrefjell 3

The night was freezing, and in the morning, the weather was gray, gloomy, and cold. By the time we packed up, our fingers were numb. We finally reached Reinheim hut (there were musk oxen in the distance right across from it) and gave up on the original plan to go all the way to Amodalshytta hut.



Instead, we took the path toward Snowheim hut, which at one point branches off toward Snowhetta.
CA Calisson94 Veteran ·
Since I’m already struggling on the scree slope up to the pass (probably an off day, judging by today’s elevation gain🤪), we decide to skip the next climb up to Snowhetta, which is in the fog anyway. Climbing through loose rocks just to see nothing at the top? No thanks, we’ve had enough of that.





We push on across the (long) plateau toward the Snowheim hut, where we take our lunch break in the warmth.

Nice little lake with a view of the summit.



Now we’ve got to cover the 14 km of road to the park exit, but we’ll do it in two stages to squeeze in one last bivouac.



A few more musk oxen later, and we find a great knoll with a clear view of Snowhetta.







Summary: 17.7 km – 364 m elevation gain

Wed 19/08 – Dovrefjell 4 End of trek

In the morning, we think we’re dreaming. Sunshine on the tent—no way! But sure enough, glorious sun warms the tent. So we sleep in until 7:40 and take our time getting ready. We even manage breakfast outside (though not for long—sunshine isn’t everything).

Today’s all about the road—no fun, but we should be able to make good time.

We have a strange encounter on this road: a young musk ox alone, looking lost. When we approach, it moves slightly off the road but not by much.



At Hjerkinn, there’s not much going on. We’re disappointed—the visitor center only has an outdoor exhibit. No desk or staff, so I couldn’t report the lone calf.

No solid accommodation at the hostel, so we head to the campsite, where we luck into a fantastic spot.

This campsite is perfectly situated with a lake view, a great dining hall (unfortunately unheated), and spotless facilities.





We’ll spend two nights here.

Summary: 10 km – 66 m elevation gain
CA Calisson94 Veteran ·
Thu 20 to Sat 22/08 – Oppdal / Dombås and back

On Thursday the 20th, we took a round-trip train to the town of Oppdal in the north (pretty meh).

On Friday the 21st, we took the train south again, stopped in Dombås (lovely souvenir shop) before continuing to the airport where we spent the night.

And on Saturday, back to Nice, still with SAS and still as perfect as ever.

Summary

What we’ll remember from this trip: the breathtaking landscapes of Jotunheimen, the beauty of the lakes Gjende and Øvre Leirungen, the glaciers, the snow-capped peaks, and also the challenging trails.

Clearly, we weren’t lucky with the weather, but camping gave us flexibility and helped us avoid too many full days in the rain.

And the presence of the huts with their heated rooms and dryers was a real blessing given the conditions.

We were surprised by the cold—we’d seen beforehand that temperatures were low, but we didn’t expect it to be *that* cold.

We were also surprised by the small number of campers. There were a few tents near the huts, but you could count them on one hand.

To plan my route in this park, I relied on these two trip reports, which I highly recommend if you’re considering Jotunheimen: https://www.dubuis.net/aventures/tour-du-jotunheimen/recit https://www.i-trekkings.net/carnet-outdoor/traversee-du-jotunheimen-a-pied/

I hope my travel journal, with its not-so-great weather, hasn’t discouraged you from visiting this park—it’s absolutely worth the trip! And as you’ll see in the two reports above, the weather can be much better!

As for the Dovrefjell part, after a little scare at the start of the circuit when we didn’t see any furry animals, we were more than satisfied. Actually, we only started seeing them once we were really deep in the park and not at all on the Musk Ox trail. Our route in this park was shorter, but after the tough moments in Jotunheimen, it was enough for us. And let’s be honest, the landscapes are still less spectacular.

And that’s it for this time. Wishing you all wonderful explorations and amazing travels. Jean Marie and Laure

ML Mlefevre Globetrotter ·
Hi Laure! I really enjoyed reading your adventures from the comfort of my couch, thanks! The photos in Jotunheimen were stunning, especially the ones from the summit of Galdhøpiggen! Kudos for persevering despite the weather conditions! Hugs to both of you! Marie
CA Calisson94 Veteran ·
Hi Marie,

Thanks so much! Hugs to you too

Laure
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·

Not translated into English yet. Original French text:

Bonjour Laure

Je viens de parcourir d'une traite ce carnet et je ne compte plus le nombre de fois où je me suis dit "qu'est-ce que ça doit être beau sous un rayon de soleil!" (c'est beau même dans la grisaille 😎).

Merci pour ce voyage virtuel que je ne ferai jamais dans la vraie vie (bien trop pluvieux et bien trop dur physiquement pour moi 😏).
CA Calisson94 Veteran ·

Not translated into English yet. Original French text:

Merci à toi pour ton message, ça fait toujours plaisir !

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