Apres 9 mois de voyage, je vous envoie un petit message de Jakarta
apres un periple de 9 mois (Danube- Carpate, Volga, Kazaksthan, Kirgistan
Tibet 2 mois pendant les jeux olympiques
Dien Bien Phu, Laos, Thailande (pas de probleme d aeroport pour les voyageurs en velo)
Malaisie, Singapoure, Sumatra et enfin Java
Tant de chose a raconter sur leplan de la magie et du merveilleux d un voyage
mais pour rester sur le plan technique, le velo "tout carbone" s est revelle un bon choix
et ne m a donne aucun probleme.
Par contre, le choix de roues en 700, et 36 rayons s est revelle un enfer
pour retrouver a travers l asie de nlles jantes chaque fois que j en petais une...
Autre piece qui m a dangereusement manque
La patte de fixation du derailleur arriere
bizarement elle a casse a deux reprises
et ce n est pas toujours evident d en trouver sur la route
Un conseil donc en avoir une de rechange
Pourquoi j ai choisi du "tout carbonne"
D abord je voulais tomber amoureux de mon velo
Je le voulais sexy, et en fait je suis un peu tomber amoureux d elle
(figure de style) of course
mais neuf mois d aventure ca crait des liens
y the way, j aurais tant voulu partager cers moments avec une personne
Pas encore de retour et j ai en tete de retourner au Tibet
Juste au Tibet... Car c est la ou j ai vecu le plus intensement ce voyage
Y a des gens ici qui sont attires par ce type de voyage ?
Carbonne, aussi ou tout d abord parceque j ai fais le choix de la legerte
En aucun cas mon velo plus baggage ne devait depasser les 50 kgs
meme avec une reserve d esu et de nouriture pour la traversee des deshert.
Ainsi, il m etait possible de porter d un seul mouvement velo baggage au 4 eme etages
d un hotel avant que l aubergiste n ait le temps de faire une objection
Ne pas avoir a retirer et remettre les baggages sur un velo fait gagner beaucoup de temps au leve du jour
et avoir son velo qui partage la meme chambre d hotel est un reel soulagement
quand on entretient un rapport sentimental avec lui
Que dire d autres de Techniques...
1 ou 2 retroviseurs me parait indispensable pour diminuer le danger de certaines routes
Bien que pour plaisanter je dirais
Celui qui fait du velo sans retroviseur est un inconscient...
Tandis que celui qui fait du velo est lui suicidaire.
(Dans un cas il ignore le danger il est donc inconscien
dans l autre cas il le voit presque en face
et donc s il persiste dans son voyage, il doit etre suicidaire ;-)
Au cours de ce voyage, j ai du faire quelaues dizaines de milliers de photos
i ca vous interesse dans voir quelques unes faites moi signe
Des questions ou reactions techniques n hesitez pas
Envie de faire un grand voyage a travers le Tibet
Faites moi signe
Félicitations Manueel, cela doit être une fantastique aventure que tu vis là ! Je te souhaite encore plein de belles rencontres et magnifiques paysages !
bonne route
"Le vrai domicile de l'homme n'est pas une maison mais la route, et la vie elle-même est un voyage à faire à pied." (Bruce Chatwin).... ou à vélo, ou en van (Cécile !)
Merci pour ton incitateur compte-rendu, pour les photos.
Tu as fait un beau voyage et tu vas recommencer ; j'aimerais bien être à Jakarta en ce moment!
Bon retour !
Tu nous fera voir d'autres photos ? ....
"Il n'y a que les routes qui sont belles, et peu importe où elles nous mènent."
Merci pour ce récit.
Tu peux nous dire quel est ton vélo (avec photo). généralement on dit que la carbone n'est pas fait pour la rando, qu'il n'est pas résistant aux chocs, etc. ton témoignage est intéressant mais je ne vois pas de quel vélo tu parles (je connais les vélos routes en carbone mais une randonneuse prête à faire de la piste, chargée ?).
Par ailleurs tu dis "Par contre, le choix de roues en 700, et 36 rayons s est revelle un enfer pour retrouver a travers l asie de nlles jantes chaque fois que j en petais une..", comme si c'était courant de casser une jante 🤪. Qu'est ce qu'il t'est arrivé ? Quelles jantes avais-tu ?
Enfin (et j'arrête de te demander des trucs), tu peux mettre des photos en pièce attachée, ça me gêne d'aller télécharger des photos inconnues, merci
Beau voyage en effet.
Je projette de pédaler vers Kathmandou l'été prochain en passant par le Kazaksthan, Kirgistan et Tibet.
Peux tu me détailler l'itinéraire avant le Kazaksthan et le temps parcouru depuis le Kazakstan jusqu'au Tibet....bref quelques précisions sur ton parcours!
salut!
je cherche l'équipe pour faire un voyage de Gorno Altaïsk (en Russie, l'Altaï) à Inde (peut-être que vers l'océan). Nos parcours sont pareils... nous projettons le commence de cette aventure à septembre. voulez vous faire la partie de ce voyage avec nous?
Aimer ce n'est pas se regarder l'un l'autre, c'est regarder ensemble dans la même direction! (''le petit prince'')
Bonjour a vous tous et merci pour vos genereuses reactions.
Je vais tenter de vous repondre en plusieurs messages
1 Le Choix du velo velo carbone,
Ce message va donc etre particulierement ennuyeux a lire
car purement techniques..
La technique est tres importante
pour les voyage afin de se faire oublier
et laisser la place a l aventure des rencontres
Apres etre alle dans de nombreuses boutiques
je n ai ete convaincu par aucun velo
et pire que ca, aucun ne me plaisait assez
pour demarer une longue relation
et pour vivre ensemble une aventure
J ai donc achete mon velo piece par piece sur Internet
et demande a un excellent vendeur de Velo (Bicloune)
de le monter pour moi
Mes choix :
Solidite rigidite et legerete
fourche et cadre Largeur de pneux variable entre 23 et 42 mm
pedallier 22-44, cassette 11/34
cadre et fourche cyclocross, guidon course
pneux Marathon xr (solidite) et marathon supreme (rapidite)
fourche rigide avec ergo de fixation pour porte bagage surbaisse Easton ec 90 Cyclocross
Cadre ergo de fixation porte bagage arriere TRECK FX 7.9
Guidon/potence course carbonne
Tige de selle carbonne Easton ec
Selle confortable (autant que possible)
Retroviseurs
Poignees freins/vitesse Durace 3/9 vitesses
conseille prendre moins chere les Ultegra
Derailleur avant Durace (prendre Ultegra pour economie)
Pedalier XTR 22/44 (prendre pour economie XT
Derailleur ariere 9 vit XTR (prendre XT pour economie)
Cassette 11 /34
I
MPORTANT : pour faire de la montagne en randonnee
avoir un plateau de 22 et une cassette de 34
offre un confort de pedallage
Monter un col a 5000 metres a 3.5/4 km/heure est un plaisir avec ce developpement, mais devient penible voir impossible avec des developpements plus rapide
Jantes Mavic CPX 33 (peut-etre l erreur qui a cause la casse ???)
moyeux XTR shimano
Le probleme des cadres carbones, c est qu il ne peuvent etre repares
contrairement aux cadre acier que vous pouvez faire reparer aussi souvent que necessaire un peu partout sur la route
Aussi souvent que necessaire...
En ce qui me concerne, je n ai jamais casse de cadre...
Des jantes oui, des pates de fixation de derailleurs des derailleurs
des changements de vitesses, etc
De la casse j en ai eu, mais des cadres, jamais,
et je n ai jamais rencontre quelqu un qui avait casse un cadre
La casse des jantes.
A l arrivee en chine, j avais a la frontiere cache mes 2 GPS
(1 Garmin et 1 Magellan) (Fantastique les GPS en voyage)
Des informations contradictoires me disant que les GPS etaient interdits de Chine
Apres la frontiere, sans m arreter, d une main j ai remis les Gps sur leur patte de fixation, 10 secondes d inatention qui m a coute le plus grand BANG de mon voyage... Pas de chute, mais arrivee a Cashi (Kashgar) dans le magazin de velo
pour changer ma cassette et ma chaine fatiguee de trop de kms
le vendeur m a fait remarque que mes deux roues etaient legerement voilee
Il lui a prix plus d 1 heure pour me les redresser...
Pas sur qu il n ai pas aggrave leur etat?
Ma premiere roue a casse 120 kms plus loin
un velo de course avait des roues de 700 dans le magazin de la ville voisine
le vendeur m a propose de me vendre la jante au prix de la moitie du velo
ce que j ai accepte... (approximativement 35 euros pour une moitie de velo course)
A 35 kms a l est de Hotan, la c est la roue avant qui explose sans raison alors que je roule a 35 kms heure... belle chute
et la, pas moyen de trouver une jante de 700
j ai le choix entre prendre un autocar pour Xining (1500 kms Est)
ou retourner 1000 kms au nord la grande ville du Nord Ouest de la Chine
dont le nom ne me revient pas
Le nombre de magazin que j ai fait sur tout mon parcours pour trouver une jante
a Xining, Chengdu, Kumning, Vientiane, Bankok Singapoure et Jakartha
Et meme a Jakarta, je n ai pas trouve de 700/36 troues
et ai donc achete deux nouveaux moyeux 32 troues pour lesquels ils avaient des
Jantes
Pardon pour ce message trop long et laborieux
Un peu plus tard, j enverrai un autre message pour repondre aux autres questions
Amitie
Manuel
PS : desole pour le format d envoi des photos
ce n est pas evident d envoyer des photos de bonne qualite (5 megaoctet)
de cybercafe
Quand je serais de retour a Paris, je mettrais en ligne des photos de mon velo
(elle se prend pour une starlette jvous dis pas ;-)
Je compte partir avec mon fils (15ans) tout le mois d'août pour l'Indonésie. L'idée est de faire Jakarta - Jepara -Jakarta à vélo. Soit 600 km en 10 jours,…
Nous sommes en Indonésie depuis 1 mois avec deux vélos et une remorque enfant. Vu l'état de la circulation et nos temps de visas qui filent, nous prévoyons de…
Voyager à vélo › Indonésie / Malaisie · 11 replies
Actuellement en route pour l'Asie du Sud est, nous préparons notre itinéraire pour l'Indonésie et nous aimerions avoir votre retour sur certains points.…
Nous partons un mois pour l'Indonésie avec atterrissage à Jakarta le 7 aout. qui peut nous indiquer un bel itinéraire sympa à vélo depuis cette ville pour voir…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
