Tout d’abord, félicitation pour la qualité de ce forum. Certains carnets de voyage (MAX68, 00Alex, Ericarole, ...) donnent vraiment de voyager. Merci pour tous vos renseignements.
Avec ma copine, nous sommes expatriés en Afrique du sud depuis 3 ans et le grand retour en France approche (Juillet 2013). Il est donc grand temps de recevoir ma belle maman en Afrique Sub-Saharienne. Son rêve est de visiter la Namibie donc let’s do it.
Il y a deux ans, j’ai passé 6 jours en Namibie mais nous étions partis à « l’arrache ». J’ai donc besoin de quelques commentaires avisés pour m’aider à peaufiner le road trip suivant :
Vendredi 21 Décembre :
Départ de Paris Vendredi 21 Décembre pour Johannesburg.
Samedi 22 Décembre :
Transfert direct pour Windhoek et visite de la ville si possible
Je la retrouve à Windhoek avec mon honda CRV
Nuit à Windhoek
Dimanche 23 Décembre : Trajet Windhoek - Sesriem
Nuit à Sesriem
Lundi 24 Décembre : Sesriem
Nuit à Sesriem
Mardi 25 Décembre : Trajet Sesriem - Swakopmund
Nuit à Swakopmund (plateau de fruit de mer pour Noel J)
Mercredi 26 Décembre : Swakopmund
Nuit à Swakopmund
Jeudi 27 Décembre : Trajet Swakopmund - Khorixas
Nuit à Khorixas
Vendredi 28 Décembre : Trajet Khorixas - Etosha Okaukuejo
Nuit à Etosha Okaukuejo
Samedi 29 Décembre : Trajet Etosha Okaukuejo - Etosha Namutoni
Nuit à Etosha Namutoni
Dimanche 30 Décembre : Etosha Namutoni
Nuit à Etosha Namutoni
Lundi 31 Décembre : trajet Etosha – Bagani
Nuit à Bagani
Mardi 1 Janvier : trajet Bagani - Chobe
Nuit à Chobe
Mercredi 2, Jeudi 3 et Vendredi 4 Janvier : Chobe
Nuit à Chobe
Une journée aux Vic falls
2 jours dans le Delta
Samedi 5 Janvier : trajet Chobe – Johannesburg
Nuit à Johannesburg
Conclusion, je fais une crois sur le fish river canion, la ville fantome, le nord est de la Namibie, est ce important ?
Pensez vous ques ces longues étapes sont réalistes ?
Quels sont les must to do entre swakopmund et etosha ? Khorixas est-il vriament la bonne étape ?
En l'attente de vos commentaires, beaux voyages à vous tous !
Mes commentaires :
Dimanche 23 Décembre : Trajet Windhoek - Sesriem Windhoek - Sessriem en un jour : grosse journée de route (5h et des poussières selon T4A, ie sans pause) mais comme tu passes deux nuis à Sessriem c'est OK.
Jeudi 27 Décembre : Trajet Swakopmund - Khorixas Je ne connais pas Khoxiras, mais entre swakop et Okakuejo je conseillerai Erongo par exemple : Swakop - Erongo c'est trois heure de route, ce qui laisse la possibilité de profiter d'une balade sur place dans l'après midi ou de faire halte au Spitzkope.
Vendredi 28 Décembre : Trajet Khorixas - Etosha Okaukuejo Erongo - Okakuejo c'est trois heure 1/2 de route, donc possible de faire un treck le matin avant de partir ET un drive dans le parc d'Etosha avant la clôture des portes.
Samedi 29 Décembre : Trajet Etosha Okaukuejo - Etosha Namutoni Je sais que le fort de Namutoni est sympa, mais on n'y dort plus. Pourquoi pas plutôt passer une nuit dans chaque camp et s'arrêter à Halali pour la deuxième nuit à Etosha ? Son point d'eau est plus attrayant que ce lui de Namutoni en plus
Lundi 31 Décembre : trajet Etosha – Bagani Aïe : grosse journée de route : 6h30 selon T4A (partir tôt, et voir ce qu'il est encore possible de faire à destination.
Après, je passe la main.
Par contre, Samedi 5 Janvier : trajet Chobe – Johannesburg , tu veux dire Vol Chobe Jobourg j'espère ...
Mercredi 2, Jeudi 3 et Vendredi 4 Janvier : Chobe
Nuit à Chobe
Une journée aux Vic falls
2 jours dans le Delta
Tu veux dire nuits à Kasane et 2 jours sur Chobe River Front ? Le delta, ce n'est pas vraiment dans le coin. Ou alors en fly-in ?
Samedi 5 Janvier : trajet Chobe – Johannesburg
Nuit à Johannesburg
J'ai bien l'impression que tu seras avec ton propre Honda CRV là-bas, non ? Il faut trois jours de route pour rentrer à Joburg. Deux en roulant beaucoup, beaucoup.
Quelques questions :T4A, c'est quoi exactement ?Je me suis renseigné sur Erongo et ca semble être un bon compromis. Merci !!! En revanche, il semble difficile de trouver des logement bon marché dans le coin. as tu une idée ?Pour Halali, je te fais confiance. je découvrirai Etosha et je ne connais pas les bons spots.Bonne journée
Concernant le delta, je veux limiter la route en 2eme semaine donc oui on restera à Kasane histoire de se faire une belle journée aux chutes victoria, une journée à contempler la rivière et une journée game drive a tracker les lions et léopards.
Pour le retour Kasane-Joburg pour se faire en une grosse journée mais on partira peut etre le vendredi aprem pour dormir à Francistown et couper la route en 2. ca semble plus raisonnable.
Concernant le delta, je veux limiter la route en 2eme semaine donc oui on restera à Kasane histoire de se faire une belle journée aux chutes victoria, une journée à contempler la rivière et une journée game drive a tracker les lions et léopards.
Très bien. Mais ce n'est pas le "delta".
Pour le retour Kasane-Joburg pour se faire en une grosse journée mais on partira peut etre le vendredi aprem pour dormir à Francistown et couper la route en 2. ca semble plus raisonnable.
T4A c'est Tracks4Africa une cartographie contributive avec beaucoup d'infos utilisable sur un PC et téléchargeable sur GPS Garmin et qui donne des temps de parcours assez réalistes. Kasane / JoBurg : 1213 km et 14h26 de route sans les arrêts. Vous serez contents d'arriver !
Si tu pars le vendredi aprem, ça suppose de rouler de nuit ce qui est très déconseillé au Botswana. Le risque de finir le voyage dans une vache, un âne ou un animal sauvage est très élevé.
T4A est l'abréviation de Track for Africa. C'est un éditeur de cartes, et notamment pour GPS. Celles-ci sont compatible Garmin et tu peux les utiliser de 2 façons :
- sur le PC pour préparer le voyage ; il faut acheter la carte en ligne et la télécharger, et installer sur ton ordi un logiciel Garmin qui s'appelle Base Camp. Tu trouveras sur la forum plusieurs fils qui traitent de la façon de faire et de se sortir de certaines difficultés si d’aventure tu en rencontrais.
- avec ton GPS pendant le voyage, mais sur un circuit classique comme le tien, ce n'est pas un must.
L'avantage d'utiliser la carte T4A pour la préparation c'est qu'elle contient une foule d’info (outre te donner les distances et temps de trajet théorique) telles que la position des stations service, aire de pique nique, et ... les hébergements.
Pour Erongo, nous avions dormi à Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Ce n'est effectivement pas bon marché, mais ça valait vraiment le coup.
T4A donne comme logements possible à Omaruru (la localité la plus proche) :
- Evas Guest House
- Omaruru Rest Camp & Guest House
qui devraient être bon marché compte tenu de l'appellation, mais je ne les connais pas)
Il y a aussi :
- Omaruru Game Lodge
- Onduruquea game lodge (et qui dispose aussi d'un campsite)
Si tu n'as pas de problème éthique avec les chasseurs, tu peux pousser un peu plus au Nord et aller à la Immenhof Guest Farm, dont je connais l’existence pour avoir déjeuner à Swakopmund dans un restaurant qui est tenu et fourni par cette même famille.
Désolé, je n'avais pas vu ta réponse à Nicolas à propos de T4A.
@ Nicolas : je rejoins Vincent sur l'utilisation de ces 15 jours : à trop vouloir en faire, on fait beaucoup de bagnole et on ne profite pas assez. Mon dernier séjour était de 16 jours sur place, on n'a fait que la Namibie, et encore sans aller ni vers Epupa ni vers Caprivi, ni au sud vers Fish River.
Salut Loïc,
Pas de problème ! 😉
Dans le coin, on peut ajouter un peu plus au Nord Epako Game Lodge, et un peu plus loin encore, la ferme Otjihaenamaparero (à vos souhaits) sur laquelle se trouve des empreintes de dinosaures et qui a une très mignon camping.
Bonjour Vincent,
Quelles étapes semblent irréalistes ? Je n'ai pas trop envie de rester 3 jours à Swako ou à Seriem 🤪
On finit notre raod trip en passant 3 jours à Kasane qui seront surement reposant 🙂
c'est déjà plus cohérent en enlevant le delta du programme mais c'est toujours trop speed et trop chargé.
je ne comprends vraiment pas l'intérêt d'un tel voyage ? tu vas traverser 2 pays sans rien en voir
sans vouloir rester 3 nuits à swakop, il y a pourtant de quoi s'occuper 3 jours, tu fais l'impasse totale sur le Damaraland
Et la bande de Caprivi, juste traversée...
de trop grandes étapes, tu vas passer ton temps en bagnole pour pas voir grand chose. Si, tu pourras en rentrant dire j'ai fait le tour de l'Afrique australe mais j'ai rien vu :)
J'avais vraiment de lui montrer les victoria falls (je les ai déjà vu deux fois et c'est magique) et le game drive de chobe river est vmt sympa (pas d'autoroute comme au kruger) et bien sauvage.
En allant à Kasane l'idée était aussi de se rapprocher de Joburg via Etosha et Kasane mais si ça semble compliqué, je vais retravailler ce road trip. Dans tous les cas, il faudra rentrer à Jozi avec ma voiture...
Dans ce cas: je peux faire windhoek - sesriem - Swako - Skeleton coast (c'est possible en CRV ?ce n'est pas vmt un 4 by 4...) - Twyfelfontein - Etosha - Windhoek - Transfrontalier Kgalagadi - Johannesburg ?
Ta dernière suggestion est plus adaptée à la situation.
Faute de Vic Falls, il y a celles d'Augrabies, au nord ouest de l'Afrique du sud. Moins dans les records mais bien impressionnantes dans un environnement plus naturel.
Une suggestion:
WDH
Swakopmund
Sesriem
Keetmanshoop (pour les kokerboom)
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (par rapport à Etosha il ne manquera guère que les éléphants)
Augrabies Falls NP
JNB (par la route côté Afrique du sud)
Résidant sur place, tu n'ignores pas que la fréquentation sera importante dans certains lieux à ces dates.🙂
Bon j'ai tout revu, tout refait et pas bossé...
Itinéraire plus raisonnable, moins cher et je pense plus agréable.
Faut ds tous les cas que je me dépêche pour les résas...
Samedi 22 Décembre : Windhoek. Nuit à Windhoek
Johannesburg - Windhoek par avion par la famille. Elle me retrouve à Windhoek
Dimanche 23 Décembre : Windhoek - Waterberg. nuit à Waterberg
Lundi 24 Décembre : Waterberg - Etosha (Okaukuejo). nuit à Etosha (Okaukuejo)
Mardi 25 Décembre : Etosha (Okaukuejo) - Etosha (Dolomite). nuit à Etosha (Dolomite)
Mercredi 26 Décembre : Etosha (Dolomite). nuit à Etosha (Dolomite)
Jeudi 27 Décembre : Etosha (Dolomite) - Twyfelfontein. nuit à Twyfelfontein
Vendredi 28 Décembre : Twyfelfontein - Brandberg. nuit à Brandberg
Samedi 29 Décembre : Brandberg - Swakopmund. nuit à Swakopmund
Dimanche 30 Décembre : Swakopmund. nuit à Swakopmund
Lundi 31 Décembre : Swakopmund - Sesriem. nuit à Sesriem
Mardi 1 Janvier : Sesriem. nuit à Sesriem
Mercredi 2 Janvier : Sesriem - Kgalagadi Transfrontalier. nuit dans le Kgalagadi Transfrontalier
Jeudi 3 Janvier : Kgalagadi Transfrontalier. nuit dans le Kgalagadi Transfrontalier
Vendredi 4 Janvier : Kgalagadi Transfrontalier - Johannesburg. nuit à Johannesburg
Qu'en pensez vous ? moins de kms et beau mix entre es paysages et les bestiaux ?
C'est bien ça (mais la belle-mère va survivre🏴☠️).
Bien sûr on peut toujours affiner mais par rapport à ton projet initial, quels progrès.
Tu as prévu de passer deux nuits dans le KTP: ne change pas ça car si on quitte ce parc par un autre pays que celui d'arrivée c'est obligatoire (on ne peut pas s'en servir juste pour passer d'un pays à l'autre en quelques heures).
Le 2 janvier: au moins 8h de route, attention à arriver avant la fermeture de Mata-Mata (si fermé, une Guest Farm juste avant la frontière en Namibie)
@ Musungu: oui pas de problème en décembre. Il pleut au maximum 10 mm par mois en nov. et décembre et le terrain est très sablonneux; pas de boue)
Merci Jean. Enfin un avis favorable 🙂. Yep le 2 janvier sera LA longue journée mais il faut au moins une dans un vrai road trip 😉
Je me lance dans les réservations. avec les économies réalisées (VISA botswana, Lodges (chobe river), Parcs (Vic falls), essences, ...) on va pouvoir se faire plaisir sur 1 ou 2 Lodges !
Hello,
Oui je confirme que les pistes du Kgalagadi sont faisables sans 4X4 en saison des pluies : on y est allé en février (2000🤪) avec un camping car.
On a quitté le parc sous un gros orage qui a donné de belles grosses flaques au fond de sable (un peu limite tout de même avec ce type de véhicule...)
A+
Marie
Ce n'est pas un secret au village: Pierre77N bien qu'il s'en défende fait autorité dans cette partie du monde sur VF.
Et donc s'il confirme que ta dernière mouture est correcte tu peux y aller. Désolé de m'être laissé aller à ces taquineries.😉
Bonnes résas!
Ton 2 janvier me turlupine quand même.
C'est une très longue route avec pas mal de gravel road: si tu as la pression pour atteindre Mata-Mata avant la fermeture tu seras dans les conditions idéales pour faire un joli tête-à-queue ou pire.
De plus, si tu rates la première nuit dans le KTP tu n'auras plus les deux obilgatoires avant de pouvoir en sortir et s'ils appliquent le règlement tu ne sortiras que le 5 au matin car ce qui compte c'est la date d'entrée effective et non les résas.
Il serait plus prudent de faire cette liaison en deux étapes (par exemple à Quivertree Forest près de Keetmanshoop, les kokerbooms ont leur adeptes) en gagnant un journée à Swakop.
Il s"est révélé trop compliqué de partir du 21 Déc au 5 janvier, billet hors de prix, Namibie pris d'assaut par des européens baroudeurs et par des sud africains en quête de nouveaux game drive. Conclusion, départ Thursday 13 December de Paris et retour Saturday 29 December. Moins cher et plus de disponibilité.🙂
ci dessous la version 452 de l'itinéraire 😉, c'est je pense (j'espère) la dernière :
Thursday 13 December : Paris - Johannesburg, nuit dans l'avion.
Friday 14 December : Paris - Johannesburg, Johannesburg - Upington, nuit à Upington
Saturday 15 December : Upington - KNP, nuit dans le KNP
Sunday 16 December : KNP, nuit dans le KNP
Monday 17 December : Kgalagadi - Sessriem, nuit à Sessriem (desert camp)
Tuesday 18 December : Sessriem, nuit à Sessriem (desert camp)
Wednesday 19 December : Sesriem - Swakopmund, , nuit à Swakopmund
Thursday 20 December : Swakopmund, nuit à Swakopmund
Friday 21 December : Swakopmund - Brandberg, nuit à Brandberg
Saturday 22 December : Brandberg - Twyfelfontein, nuit à Twyfelfontein
Sunday 23 December : Twyfelfontein - Etosha (Dolomite), nuit à Dolomite
Monday 24 December : Etosha (Dolomite), nuit à Dolomite
Tuesday 25 December : Etosha (Dolomite) - Etosha (Okaukuejo), nuit à Okaukuejo
Wednesday 26 December : Etosha (Okaukuejo) - Waterberg, nuis à Waterberg
Thursday 27 December :Waterberg - Windhoek - ?
Friday 28 December : ? - Johannesburg
Saturday 29 December : Johannesberg, vol à 20h pour Paris
Sunday 30 December : Paris
Quelques questions :
Il faut que je trouve une ville étape entre Windhoek et Johannesburg via le Botswana. Vous avez des idées ?
Si mes souvenirs sont bons, le VISA pour le botswana est gratuit et il n'y a pas de frais pour le traverser en voiture ?
Des copains me déconseillent Twyfelfontein et Brandberg, mais je vais faire confiance aux spécialistes, vous avez des bons plans ? Ces journées seront consacrés aux randonnées ? La skeleton coast n'est pas plus intéressante ?
Bon week end à vous. ici, c'est un week end de 3 jours, Heritage day on monday, direction Durban.
La route Spitzkoppe / Brandberg / Twyfelfontain à travers le Damaraland est magnifique.
Celle de la côte est plus monotone. Et souvent dans le brouillard.
D' une manière générale, si tu veux être à peu près tranquille, il faut éviter les vacances scolaires Sudaf et dans une moindre mesure celles d' Europe.
Notre été ne pose guère de problèmes, les Sudaf y ont peu de vacances, et les vacances Européennes (moins longues qu 'en France chez nos voisins) sont pas trop mal étalées.
Noël est la période qui semble concentrer le plus les problèmes, il y a vancances d' été Sudaf et vacances de Noël Européennes, qui sont quasiment les mêmes pour tous les pays de l' UE. Cette année, les vacances Sudaf (zone côtière et intérieure) couvrent la période allant de mi-décembre à mi-janvier..
@ Pierre: je suis un peu perplexe (bien que cela ne soit pas déterminant) sur le montant de la "Road Tax" du Bots: j' ai payé 120BWP sur la Transkalahari après leur avoir longuement expliqué que j' étais déjà assuré, 140 BWP à Mahango en faisant de même et 170 voire 180 BWP à d' autres endroits, le tout avec des reçus en bon uniforme...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
@ Pierre: je suis un peu perplexe (bien que cela ne soit pas déterminant) sur le montant de la "Road Tax" du Bots: j' ai payé 120BWP sur la Transkalahari après leur avoir longuement expliqué que j' étais déjà assuré, 140 BWP à Mahango en faisant de même et 170 voire 180 BWP à d' autres endroits, le tout avec des reçus en bon uniforme...
Je n'ai pas réussi à faire valoir qu'on était déjà assurés. Je me suis même fait engueuler à Buitepos à ce propos.
En tout état de cause, ça fait bien "moins de 200 pula", non ? 🙂
Oui, moins de 200 boules locales, sau si tu paies en N$ ou en ZAR et qu 'ils t' appliquent (avec reçu et sans rire) un taux de 1 BWP = 1,5 N$, ce qui transforme BWP 120 en ZAR 180; j' avoue que je n' avais pas trop envie de discuter...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Salut Les djeunes,
Gare galopin!
(on en a égarés plus d'un dans le Kalahari pour moins que ça😉)
Ton 17/12 est toujours difficile mais au moins si tu arrives tard (ou pas) c'est sans conséquence. Le seul intérêt d'arriver le soir même serait de profiter des dunes le lendemain au lever du soleil mais dans l'état dans lequel vous serez ce sera dur.
Il faut que je trouve une ville étape entre Windhoek et Johannesburg via le Botswana. Vous avez des idées ?
Xade 20°20'22"S, 23°00'25"E
Conseil d'ancien😛
Autre piste: si tu passes par l'A2 au sud du CKGR, ce qui est le plus court, il y a des lodges à Kang, et de l'essence, à peu près à mi-chemin. Attention aux réserves de carburant et ... aux animaux.
Merci encore, c’est terminé ! 80% des résas effectués, aucun en camping et on s’en tire pour 700€ par personne. Ca sera finalement une nuit à Dolomite Camp et deux nuits à Okaukuejo Resort. on dormira aussi à Twyfelfontein Country Lodge qui a l'air sympa tout comme Waterberg Rest Camp.
Vu qu’on a pas de voiture à louer et la carte essence devrait passer, c’est raisonnable et comme ils disent ici : « Once in your life time »
En effet, mon CRV consomme et je sais pas trop comment gérer ca. Va falloir rouler doucement. je peux pas mettre un jerrican dans le coffre...
Yes, j’ai suivi les conseils de Pierre pour la nuit entre Windhoek et Joburg, on va prendre la N2, slalomer entre les vaches et dormir à Kang.
Sans vous j'y serais encore et j'aurai vu trop grand...
Pour ma part j'ai donné deux infos:
1-attention aux réserves d'essence: l'inciter à faire le plein à Ghanzi ou dans le coin
2-un jerrycan neuf ne dégage aucune odeur.
Y a-t-il discussion?😮
Et comme le dit Pierre, imaginons qu'à Kang il y ait un problème de ravitaillement?
Enfin, un CRV ça suce énormément, pas sûr que le plein fasse les 600 kms avant Gaborone, et ils sont capables en Afrique du sud d'avoir une version V6 3.0L
😛
Ca sera finalement une nuit à Dolomite Camp et deux nuits à Okaukuejo Resort
Ça me parait plus logique : je ne sais pas si c'est le prix ou la dispo qui t'ont fait changer mais il y a plus à voir autour du second que du premier.
Et alors, pourquoi pas un jerrican d’essence dans le coffre ? on veut savoir 😉
Changement d'avis : vos commentaires et les 57 ans de maman. et le transfrontalier et aussi sympa et chobe. Niveau budget c'est kiffe-kiffe je pense.
Pour le jerrican d’essence dans le coffre, j'ai pas trop envie d'avoir des effluves de sans-plomb dans la caisse. Mais je vais me renseigner et voir si un jerrican neuf serait inodore. Mon CRV n'a jms fait 600kms avec un plein............
Changement d'avis : vos commentaires et les 57 ans de maman. et le transfrontalier et aussi sympa et chobe. Niveau budget c'est kiffe-kiffe je pense.
??? Tu en es où ?
Pour le jerrican d’essence dans le coffre, j'ai pas trop envie d'avoir des effluves de sans-plomb dans la caisse. Mais je vais me renseigner et voir si un jerrican neuf serait inodore. Mon CRV n'a jms fait 600kms avec un plein............
En Afrique, je roule avec 2 jerricans de sans plomb derrière la banquette arrière : aucun effluve. Moins de 600 km d'autonomie, ça me semble insuffisant.
Tout est réservé et payé. on s'est fait plaisir à Etosha et à Twyfelfontein. waterberg a l'air aussi sympa. Pas de camping de prévu et ça devrait lui faire plaisir :-). le tout est en pièce jointe
Le coffre de ma caisse n'est pas énorme, je vais essayer de demander à mon boss s'il peut me prêter son fortuner...
For sure, c'est du zar. 🙂 Ça fait du 700€ par personne pour le logement soit 50€ par nuit / tête. La namibie n'est pas donné mais je pense que ca vaut le coup.
Trajet rapide mais beau trajet !
Oui, ta feuille est un peu plus lisible.😉
Vous allez voir une jolie palette de paysages .
Belle-maman sera ravie et vous aussi !
Excellent voyage et bonne fin de terme ! 😉
Je continue à approfondir le trip et il faut je trouve de quoi occuper les journée hors game drive.
Wednesday 19 December : from Sesriem to Swakopmund
Thursday 20 December : Swakopmund
Friday 21 December : from Swakopmund to Brandberg
Le Jeudi 20 Décembre, je pensais faire le DAY TOURS (Sandwich Harbour; the Namib Desert; Cape Cross and Messum Crater). sage décision ?
Pblm : je souhaite aussi faire le living desert tour avec living desert adventure.
Ca fait doublon ou pas ?si non, est-il possible de la caser vendredi 21 avant de partir à Brandberg ? si oui, je peux partir tot à Brandberg et faire une belle rando ? what is the best spot ?
il faut je trouve de quoi occuper les journée hors game drive.
Je commencerai par dire que le simple trajet (avec les arrêts photos et autres) se suffit à lui-même "Wednesday 19 December : from Sesriem to Swakopmund "
Le Jeudi 20 Décembre, je pensais faire le DAY TOURS (Sandwich Harbour; the Namib Desert; Cape Cross and Messum Crater)
Tu comptes choisir une ou 2 activités car impossible de faire toutes ces activités en 1 J à moins que ce soit le nom d'un trip particulier ? 😉
The Namib desert ne devrait pas- à mon avis- faire doublon avec le living desert tour (qui a ravi tous ceux qui l'ont fait).
Par contre ce tour démarre à 8h et se termine vers 13h !
Donc vouloir le faire et ensuite prendre la route pour la région du Brandberg...
😉
il faut 3h30 pour rejoindre Brandberg depuis swakopmund donc oui c'est possible, tu as même un peu de marge.
faudra quand même pas traîner.
Le living desert tour c'est magique
Sandwich harbour aussi est magique. Perso je conseille plutôt le combiné mer et dunes. Safari marin le matin dans la baie et Sandwich Harbour l'après-midi avec le compagnie Sandwich Harbour.
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Voilà voilà, le grand jour est enfin là. Un voyage très attendu par toute la famille (mes 2 enfants, mon mari et moi-même). Pour faire court, nous sommes…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?