Hello Fellow Travelers,
I’ve just returned from a week-long trip to Azerbaijan, covering both Baku and the country’s main sights.
Contrary to what the "Travel Advisory" from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs says, you can travel everywhere safely—the Azerbaijanis are lovely to foreigners, and the police are absolutely helpful.
Just follow the local laws, as you would anywhere, to avoid any trouble.
I highly recommend visiting this stunning country.
Antoine
De retour du Kurdistan d'Irak
by Clarissa7
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
j ai aussi omis le laki : le parler kurde du N-E Lorestan (Nurabad, Borujerd).
Quel impair !
Prévoies le garde du corps pour ta prochaine virée au sanctuaire Imamazadeh Jafar de Borujerd. 😉
Plus sérieusement, je ne savais pas que le kurde était implanté dans cette région.
Merci professeur Turbi !
Fabrice
Prévoies le garde du corps pour ta prochaine virée au sanctuaire Imamazadeh Jafar de Borujerd. 😉
Plus sérieusement, je ne savais pas que le kurde était implanté dans cette région.
Merci professeur Turbi !
Fabrice
salut le laki n est parle que par qques paysans kurdes au lorestan et vers Sahneh . Au lorestan, on parle lore et persan, un peu de bakhtiyari a Aligudarz. Pour me rendre a l imamzadeh jafar , j ai demande mon chemin a un libraire complaisant en persan. J ai pas mal ecume Dorud, Borujerd, Khoramabad, Aligudarz jusqu au 16 mai dernier date a laquelle je me suis un peu calme. Souvenirs imperissables: 3 semaines de torticolis et une nuit en depanneuse avec deux jeunes enrages qui ecoutaient des taraneh - disco lores a donf.
Pour lire sur la chanson lore , telecharger le brouillon de mon papier sur les sonneurs d iran http://inthegapbetween.free.fr/pierre/report-instrument-makers-iran/
Pour lire sur la chanson lore , telecharger le brouillon de mon papier sur les sonneurs d iran http://inthegapbetween.free.fr/pierre/report-instrument-makers-iran/
J ai pas mal ecume Dorud, Borujerd, Khoramabad, Aligudarz jusqu au 16 mai dernier date a laquelle je me suis un peu calme. Souvenirs imperissables: 3 semaines de torticolis et une nuit en depanneuse avec deux jeunes enrages qui ecoutaient des taraneh - disco lores a donf.
L'occasion de rappeler que le principal danger en Iran, ce n'est pas tout ce qu'imaginent les non-initiés du style enlèvements, séquestration, attentats, etc. Le principal danger, c'est tout bonnement un accident de circulation, juste devant le risque sismique. Sachant que je ne sais pas trop où positionner la catastrophe aérienne, mais j'ai quand même évité l'avion.
J'oubliais un risque majeur pour les hommes, celui de tomber sous le charme d'une iranienne. Redoutable, mais j'ai su me maîtriser n'étant pas encore mûr pour la conversion et la circoncision.
Fabrice
L'occasion de rappeler que le principal danger en Iran, ce n'est pas tout ce qu'imaginent les non-initiés du style enlèvements, séquestration, attentats, etc. Le principal danger, c'est tout bonnement un accident de circulation, juste devant le risque sismique. Sachant que je ne sais pas trop où positionner la catastrophe aérienne, mais j'ai quand même évité l'avion.
J'oubliais un risque majeur pour les hommes, celui de tomber sous le charme d'une iranienne. Redoutable, mais j'ai su me maîtriser n'étant pas encore mûr pour la conversion et la circoncision.
Fabrice
... je te raconterai la conversion. Ne crains pas la circoncision et fonce.
Par contre, je dois dire que la premiere cause de mortalite ce n est pas la voiture mais c est le kebab ! Des milliers d intoxications alimentaires . Et oui, les kubideh ont du mal a se maintenir au niveau sanitaire necessaire!
Par contre, je dois dire que la premiere cause de mortalite ce n est pas la voiture mais c est le kebab ! Des milliers d intoxications alimentaires . Et oui, les kubideh ont du mal a se maintenir au niveau sanitaire necessaire!
Cette fois-ci, ce n'est plus le professeur Turbi, mais le Docteur Turbi !
Il y aurait du E-coli dans les kubideh ?????
Heureusement que je m'en suis très souvent tenu à m'acheter dans les marchés, des légumes (excellents les khiars !), du fromage, du nan bien chaud, et des fruits.
Quand je mangeais formel, je suis parvenu la plupart du temps à trouver des restaurants sonati où j'ai goûté aux spécialités iraniennes que je ne connaissais pas encore. Sinon, les bouis-bouis à plat unique près des bazars, en particulier pour des soupes.
Sur 5 semaines de voyage, je n'aurais pris que 4 fois des kebabs, dont 3 fois en étant invité (donc pas le choix). La quatrième fois, c'était à Khorramabad et c'est moi qui invitait. Mais le restaurant avait été conseillé par mon invité, après que j'ai décliné sa première préconisation en faveur d'une pizzeria.
2 fois un petit désagrément intestinal, en 2007 et en 2010, chaque fois avec un khoresh à Chiraz.
C'est risqué les fesenjun, albalou polo, khoresh, dizzi ? Quels sont les plats qui ont vraiment mauvaise réputation sanitaire en Iran, hormis les kubideh que tu as déjà signalé ?
Fabrice
Il y aurait du E-coli dans les kubideh ?????
Heureusement que je m'en suis très souvent tenu à m'acheter dans les marchés, des légumes (excellents les khiars !), du fromage, du nan bien chaud, et des fruits.
Quand je mangeais formel, je suis parvenu la plupart du temps à trouver des restaurants sonati où j'ai goûté aux spécialités iraniennes que je ne connaissais pas encore. Sinon, les bouis-bouis à plat unique près des bazars, en particulier pour des soupes.
Sur 5 semaines de voyage, je n'aurais pris que 4 fois des kebabs, dont 3 fois en étant invité (donc pas le choix). La quatrième fois, c'était à Khorramabad et c'est moi qui invitait. Mais le restaurant avait été conseillé par mon invité, après que j'ai décliné sa première préconisation en faveur d'une pizzeria.
2 fois un petit désagrément intestinal, en 2007 et en 2010, chaque fois avec un khoresh à Chiraz.
C'est risqué les fesenjun, albalou polo, khoresh, dizzi ? Quels sont les plats qui ont vraiment mauvaise réputation sanitaire en Iran, hormis les kubideh que tu as déjà signalé ?
Fabrice
non je crois que le kubideh c est le point noir. ca et les extatiques illegaux.
Le riz ca craint rien, comme partout. Ma seule intoxication significative en 4 ans fut une puree d aubergine.
le dizi (je suis fan) peut etre de qualite assez variable, tres gras dans les bouis bouis . j ai surmonte cette epreuve dans un routier a Abyek. la variante de Kermanshah se fait avec beaucoup de tomates.
Historiquement les iraniens ne devraient leur salut qu a la consommation des khiar (oignons) et du mast (yoghurt). Bien qu on m ait explique plusiurs fouis, l echelle culinaire des produits m echappe un peu.
Le riz ca craint rien, comme partout. Ma seule intoxication significative en 4 ans fut une puree d aubergine.
le dizi (je suis fan) peut etre de qualite assez variable, tres gras dans les bouis bouis . j ai surmonte cette epreuve dans un routier a Abyek. la variante de Kermanshah se fait avec beaucoup de tomates.
Historiquement les iraniens ne devraient leur salut qu a la consommation des khiar (oignons) et du mast (yoghurt). Bien qu on m ait explique plusiurs fouis, l echelle culinaire des produits m echappe un peu.
J'oubliais de mentionner le mast dans mon régime quotidien.
D'autant que les petits formats n'étaient disponibles qu'avec des échalottes. Donc j'ai pris les grands formats, style 500 ou 750 g, alors que je voyageais seul et sans réfrigérateur. Donc orgie de mast à tous les repas pour les terminer avant que cela ne se transforme en fromage !
J'ai même osé du mast naturel, artisanal, à Qazvin et à Shushtar. Heureusement, ma gourmandise n'a pas prêté à conséquences fâcheuses.
Je croyais que khiar qualifiait les petits concombres. A moins que cela ne soit kheyar ? C'est cela dont je parlais.
Fabrice
D'autant que les petits formats n'étaient disponibles qu'avec des échalottes. Donc j'ai pris les grands formats, style 500 ou 750 g, alors que je voyageais seul et sans réfrigérateur. Donc orgie de mast à tous les repas pour les terminer avant que cela ne se transforme en fromage !
J'ai même osé du mast naturel, artisanal, à Qazvin et à Shushtar. Heureusement, ma gourmandise n'a pas prêté à conséquences fâcheuses.
Je croyais que khiar qualifiait les petits concombres. A moins que cela ne soit kheyar ? C'est cela dont je parlais.
Fabrice
Merci Clarissa pour toutes ces infos.
Je note.
Je m'envole le 31 mars pour y passer 10 jours.🙂
Je note.
Je m'envole le 31 mars pour y passer 10 jours.🙂
D'ailleurs, pour info, depuis quelques semaines, pour le visa, c'est passé à 15 jours donnés gratuitement à l'aéroport ou à la frontière !
R.S
R.S
Bon à savoir lorsque j'y retournerais avec mon épouse.
Pour l'instant, c'est 10 jours, avec mon beau frère Kurde....🙂
Pour l'instant, c'est 10 jours, avec mon beau frère Kurde....🙂
J'oubliais de mentionner le mast dans mon régime quotidien.
D'autant que les petits formats n'étaient disponibles qu'avec des échalottes. Donc j'ai pris les grands formats, style 500 ou 750 g, alors que je voyageais seul et sans réfrigérateur. Donc orgie de mast à tous les repas pour les terminer avant que cela ne se transforme en fromage !
J'ai même osé du mast naturel, artisanal, à Qazvin et à Shushtar. Heureusement, ma gourmandise n'a pas prêté à conséquences fâcheuses.
Je croyais que khiar qualifiait les petits concombres. A moins que cela ne soit kheyar ? C'est cela dont je parlais.
Fabrice
Ces considérations gastronomiques sont fascinantes! Pour notre part, en un mois de voyage dans tout le pays, mon frère et moi avons surtout tourné aux... kebabs. Comme quoi! Peut-être le fait d'être deux nous a-t-il valu moins d'invitations, donc de cuisine familiale. Nous avons tout de même adoré les jus de melon, et fait une curieuse expérience en attendant l'ouverture du bureau des Aliens de Shiraz: l'homme qui nous a indiqué le chemin nous a emmené dans une gargote non loin et a tenu à nous offrir une assiette chacun d'un curieux fromage fondu à la viande, à saucer avec le pain... au petit-déjeuner, cela réveille! (lorsqu'il est parti, le reste a été discrètement vidé dans le caniveau) Niveau intoxication, la seule chose à signaler a été un verre d'Ayran tourné, pourtant préconisé par le chauffeur du bus qui m'avait pris sous son aile. Il a eu bien tort, puisque j'ai été obligé de demander une pause du bus en pleine montagne (lacets de l'Aalborz vers Masshad) pour sortir éliminer tout ça vite près de ses roues arrière... De façon plus générale, nous avons été déçus par la répétitivité des restaurants qui servent surtout des plats uniques, et la nourriture assez similaire à la Turquie avec moins de variété. (Ah, par contre le truc qui tue au petit-dèj, c'est le pain tout chaud à saucer dans ces boîtes de fromage de consistance feta, ne me souviens plus du nom)
D'autant que les petits formats n'étaient disponibles qu'avec des échalottes. Donc j'ai pris les grands formats, style 500 ou 750 g, alors que je voyageais seul et sans réfrigérateur. Donc orgie de mast à tous les repas pour les terminer avant que cela ne se transforme en fromage !
J'ai même osé du mast naturel, artisanal, à Qazvin et à Shushtar. Heureusement, ma gourmandise n'a pas prêté à conséquences fâcheuses.
Je croyais que khiar qualifiait les petits concombres. A moins que cela ne soit kheyar ? C'est cela dont je parlais.
Fabrice
Ces considérations gastronomiques sont fascinantes! Pour notre part, en un mois de voyage dans tout le pays, mon frère et moi avons surtout tourné aux... kebabs. Comme quoi! Peut-être le fait d'être deux nous a-t-il valu moins d'invitations, donc de cuisine familiale. Nous avons tout de même adoré les jus de melon, et fait une curieuse expérience en attendant l'ouverture du bureau des Aliens de Shiraz: l'homme qui nous a indiqué le chemin nous a emmené dans une gargote non loin et a tenu à nous offrir une assiette chacun d'un curieux fromage fondu à la viande, à saucer avec le pain... au petit-déjeuner, cela réveille! (lorsqu'il est parti, le reste a été discrètement vidé dans le caniveau) Niveau intoxication, la seule chose à signaler a été un verre d'Ayran tourné, pourtant préconisé par le chauffeur du bus qui m'avait pris sous son aile. Il a eu bien tort, puisque j'ai été obligé de demander une pause du bus en pleine montagne (lacets de l'Aalborz vers Masshad) pour sortir éliminer tout ça vite près de ses roues arrière... De façon plus générale, nous avons été déçus par la répétitivité des restaurants qui servent surtout des plats uniques, et la nourriture assez similaire à la Turquie avec moins de variété. (Ah, par contre le truc qui tue au petit-dèj, c'est le pain tout chaud à saucer dans ces boîtes de fromage de consistance feta, ne me souviens plus du nom)
D'ailleurs, pour info, depuis quelques semaines, pour le visa, c'est passé à 15 jours donnés gratuitement à l'aéroport ou à la frontière !
R.S
Bon à savoir! ... mais l'info vraiment précieuse reste la situation du passage de frontière Iran/Irak! 😉
R.S
Bon à savoir! ... mais l'info vraiment précieuse reste la situation du passage de frontière Iran/Irak! 😉
Je suis passé par la frontière terrestre turco-kurde.
Une grosse frontière avec beaucoup de camion, beaucoup de monde, beaucoup de bureaux, un beau bazar, quoi....🙂
Mais avec de la patience, on arrive à passer.....
Une grosse frontière avec beaucoup de camion, beaucoup de monde, beaucoup de bureaux, un beau bazar, quoi....🙂
Mais avec de la patience, on arrive à passer.....
😊 Je viens de prendre connaissance de ton récit, sincèrement, moi qui n'était pas très enthousiaste pour y aller (accompagner une copine pour raison familiale), j'avais fermement l'intention de résider dans 1 hôtel pour 10 jours....
Je n'ai vraiment plus envie de m'y rendre ! mais alors plus du tout !
Merci !
Solange
Je n'ai vraiment plus envie de m'y rendre ! mais alors plus du tout !
Merci !
Solange
Comme c'est dommage.
Surtout en ayant quelqu'un sur place!
Surtout en ayant quelqu'un sur place!
😊 Ben ! c'est une copine qui "a quelqu'un" sur place et vu que "ça chauffe" entre eux......je préfère l'hôtel ! Donc......
Si vous voulez mon avis, si vous avez un tout petit bugdet, prenez une (ou deux nuits) dans un hotel correct meme si vous la payez dans les $60 ( A Duhok le Maten Hotel est ok, a Suly le Bayan hotel a cote du cafe Melody est aussi ok, a Erbil je ne sais pas mais il y a de nouveaux hotels qui ont ouvert ces qq dernieres annees, ca devient plus facile de trouver un truc correct) puis le jour suivant, promenez vous, et demandez aux gens que vous recontrez dans la rue s'ils connaissent une famille avec des femmes et des enfants qui pourraient vous accueillir parce que vous etes toute seule et que vous avez peur a l'hotel etc... je peux vous assurer que n'importe qui va vous trouver ca en 2 min. Alors evidemment ca peut paraitre un peu gonfle, mais en fait pas tant que ca... les gens comprendront, et puis, ils seront contents de vous aider et de passer du temps avec vous.
Je parle d'experience, je suis deja restee, par exemple, tout un mois avec une tres gentille famille a cote de Sulaymaniyah. Alors bien sur vous dormirez sur un matelas en mousse par terre avec tout le monde, mais au moins ca sera safe, et puis vous decouvrirez le quotidien des gens. Pour 10 jours, ca sera fatigant mais c'est gerable. Achetez de la nourriture, un peu de viande, ou n'importe quoi tous les jours, meme si les gens refusent, et insistez pour aider pour les taches menageres. Par contre, inutile de leur offrir de cuisiner francais, les Kurdes n'osent pas refuser, par politesse, mais ce ne sont pas de tres grands aventuriers culinaires. Ah, et aussi, si on vous promet de vous servir du pacha, gipa ou sarrupie... la tete de mouton avec le reste, les intestins etc... tant pis si ca les vexe, refusez vehementement... croyez moi c'est dans votre interet
Bon courage a vous
R.S
R.S
🙂 Grand merci pour tous ces renseignements ! Mais, ce sera pour l'année prochaine, en ce moment je ne suis pas motivée, disons de moins en moins. Je retiens 🙂 l'hôtel "A Duhok le Maten Hotel est ok, a Suly le Bayan hotel".
AMICALEMENT
AMICALEMENT
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Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon. Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations). I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon. Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations). I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Hello everyone,
We’re just back from a wonderful adventure exploring Wadi Rum.
We spent 3 days and 2 unforgettable nights there. Our guide, Mohamad, introduced us to the desert—its beauty, its mysteries—with rare skill, kindness, and generosity. We hiked through breathtakingly beautiful places, slept in a Bedouin tent and under the stars, enjoyed delicious meals, and shared moments of incredible quality.
Mohamad honored us by sharing songs, poems, and stories, and introducing us to his family. His humor, life philosophy, and empathy will stay with us forever.
Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had.
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip. Michèle
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip. Michèle
Hi,
Has anyone visited Azerbaijan recently? I’m looking for info on this destination. The latest posts on this forum are from 2020.
Thanks
Hi,
is it easy to cross from Jordan into Egypt?
Thanks.
Hi,
Do you know where I can find a map for the Mestia/Ushguli trek? At the Mestia tourist office?
Thanks
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
Hi everyone!
I’m giving this a shot, hoping to get some answers that can help clear things up.
We’re planning a trip to Oman in February and want to rent a car.
The catch is we probably won’t have received our international driving permits in time.
After some research, we still can’t figure out if there are any rental companies that only require a French license...
or possibly a certified translation of it.
Given that the French license is recognized in Oman, we’re hoping for some advice.
Any tips would be hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance to those who can help!
Best regards,
Olyana
Hi there, 😄
my friend and I are leaving in 15 days for Kurdistan, by road, in our little converted van... The only thing we're sure of (well, the only thing we've actually thought about! The adventures will take care of the rest!) is that we're planning to take a month to get there, 15 days on site to visit my sister-in-law who's been living there as a teacher for a year! and 15 days to rush back, because my boyfriend has to go back to work on November 3rd!! After that, the itinerary isn't set yet—I've just bought a map of Europe... and still haven't found one of Kurdistan! or Iraq! I just finished work yesterday... and until now, this trip felt so far away... I didn't imagine much about it... I kept telling myself, "You'll see when you're done working, your brain will be more available!" Well, now my brain is in "gooo go go!" mode 😮 and it's going fast! I've got tons of questions popping up all at once!
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide! - Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss? - The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa? - The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming! - Why not Couchsurfing? - Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla... - Will the van hold up? 😐 - Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!
😛
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide! - Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss? - The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa? - The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming! - Why not Couchsurfing? - Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla... - Will the van hold up? 😐 - Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!
😛









