La semaine prochaine, je vais descendre à Bira et voir pour aller à l'ile de Selayar. Location de scooter a Makassar pour 70,000 roupies par jour. Je me demande; si avec les fêtes qui arrivent, ça risque d'etre difficile de trouver à se loger; est ce que quelqu'un a une experience pour cette periode (Ramadan et Idul Fitri)?
Tu peux peut-être avoir des infos par Denis ( 082 192 957 195 ) en Français ou par Eka (082 191 034 128 ) en anglais.
Eka est Indonésien et vit à Benteng, il aura peut-être des adresses en Homestay ou chez l'habitant et il a un bungalow pas très loin de Benteng.
Pour le ferry prévois d'arriver en avance, car il y a toujours du monde et quand nous l'avions pris à l'aller on n'y rentrait plus une allumette..... Le ferry du soir arrive vers 17h30 bien tassé et Benteng est à 1h00 de voiture, donc risque d'arrivée de nuit. Celui du matin part vers 8h30 et des brouettes.....
Il faut en arrivant au port, en haut de la côte, payer une taxe à la guérite où le gars en uniforme te remet un papier qui te permet de prendre ton billet aux guichet d'en bas.
T'as trouvé où à louer le scooter? J'avais un peu galéré à trouver et surtout convaincre le loueur....
Idul Fitri c'est du 28 au 31, c'est sûr que ça va être compliqué de loger à Bira à ces dates.
Justement, j'avais indiqué dans une autre discussion le Sunshine Guesthouse à Bira, c'est peut-être là où tu trouveras le plus facilement une chambre car les indonésiens n'aiment pas cet hôtel trop calme.
Ceci dit, je pense qu'il serait sage d'éviter Bira du 28 au 31, à moins d'aimer le bain de foule et le bruit qui va avec.
Selayar sera certainement plus calme, mais l'offre d'hébergements est quand même limitée. Je ne sais pas si Selayar est une destination très populaire pour les Indonésiens (Bira c'est sûr que oui). Au pire, tu squattes chez les gens (moyennant finances bien entendu), c'est ce que j'avais fait lorsque j'étais allé jusqu'à la pointe sud de Selayar, on avait demandé aux habitants du village le plus proche et l'un d'eux nous a proposé de dormir chez lui.
Tiens d'ailleurs j'avais même pris une photo souvenir de ma chambre 🙂 En plus Idul Fitri chez l'habitant ça doit être une expérience sympa.
OUI, pas facile de trouver à louer un scooter. J'ai essayé autour de Fort Rotterdam, mais ils voulaient trop. Finalement, j'ai demandé a la reception d'un hotel sur Losari Beach, qui m'a mis en contact avec un employé louant son scooter a titre privé. On peut même y boire une bière en soirée: demander un "kopi kuning".
Pour la periode des fêtes, je verrais sur place. En cas de problème de logement, loger chez l'habitant me semble une bonne option. J'espère que ce ne sera pas trop surpeuplé par les touristes de Makassar. Conduire en ville est vraiment dangereux, ils roulent n'importe comment et me causent des frayeurs. Surtout les bus et camions.
Finalement, j'ai demandé a la reception d'un hotel sur Losari Beach, qui m'a mis en contact avec un employé louant son scooter a titre privé.
Ben à l'occasion, si tu as les coordonnées de cet employé, ça m'intéresse 🙂 (pas forcément les coordonnées de l'hôtel car les indonésiens changent souvent d'employeur) car en effet c'est pas évident de trouver à louer sur plusieurs jours.
J'espère que ce ne sera pas trop surpeuplé par les touristes de Makassar.
Pour Bira je suis prêt à prendre le pari que si 😛 (mais uniquement pour les 4 jours d' Idul Fitri: suffit de regarder à la télé les bouchons de Jakarta, ça correspond à leur grand chassé-croisé des vacances, comme chez nous fin juillet début août mais en pire, car vraiment concentré sur 4 jours). Et Pantai Bira c'est pour Makassar ce que la plage du Grau du Roi est pour Lyon 😏
Conduire en ville est vraiment dangereux, ils roulent n'importe comment et me causent des frayeurs. Surtout les bus et camions.
Des frayeurs oui, mais je ne dirai pas "n'importe comment". Ils ont une logique différente, la priorité allant au plus gros. Sur route, il faut toujours prévoir le camion ou le bus qui arrive en face et va déboiter d'un seul coup pour doubler, occuper toute la largeur de la route (normal leurs routes nationales ont une taille de route communale de chez nous) et là, quand un véhicule arrive en face, toujours prévoir de pouvoir freiner net si besoin, voire rouler dans l'herbe quand c'est possible, etc... Les conducteurs de grosses Kijang ont aussi cette manie de doubler, charge à ceux qui arrivent en face de se pousser. Bon évidemment je ne parle pas du risque de voir débouler de nulle part toute forme de vie sur 2 ou 4 pattes.... Bref il faut être sur ses gardes et ne jamais conduire vite.
J'avais bien galéré pour sortir de Makassar (mais j'allais au nord, vers le pays Taraja), y'a aucun panneau et des routes de partout. La route qui passe par Malinau puis Sinjai est un peu plus longue mais plus sympa que la route côtière qui va direct à Bira, et moins fréquentée.
La route qui passe par Malinau puis Sinjai est un peu plus longue mais plus sympa que la route côtière qui va direct à Bira, et moins fréquentée.
Je confirme que la route est nettement plus longue, mais également moins fréquentées que par la côte. En voiture compte quand même : Makassar / Malino 3h00, Malino / Sinjai 5h00 et Sinjai / Bira 4h00 soit pas loin de 12h00 en s'arrêtant pour profiter un peu du paysage, lâcher le guidon, manger un Bakso et boire un coup.
Ceci dit les scooters nous doublaient sur les petites routes sinueuses où en voiture, tu serres un peu les miches......Entre les poules, les vaches, les chèvres, les gosses, et les sorties de mosquées sans compter les scooters, les bémos et les camions, j'aime à dire que tout ça relève plus du pilotage que de la conduite.....
Mais c'est l'Indonésie et c'est ça qui est bon !
Quand à la signalisation routière aux Sulawési....Un euphémisme ! Il ne faut pas hésiter à demander ton chemin et en général, tu auras la réponse qui tue : Tourous Tourous (comprend tout droit) avec un geste de la main pour te dire que, plus loin, il faut aller vers la gauche ou la droite....
Oui, je peux donner les coordonnées de Ibu Ida. Elle travaille au Losari Beach Hotel et aussi au Losari Beach Inn sur Losari Beach Pantai (demander a la reception de l'hotel). Son scooter est un Honda Beat tout neuf avec 2000 kms. Elle le loue à la journee sur Makassar et pour aller à Bira, pas de probleme. Comme caution, elle demande le passeport pour etre sure de revoir le scooter et veut voir un permis international. Elle loue aussi sa voiture avec chauffeur seulement et peux organiser un tour sur Toraja.
Son téléphone: 081 342 455 992 et 0411 921 7831. Son anglais n'est pas parfait, donc parler lentement, poser la question plusieurs fois et être patient pour obtenir des reponses.
Pas facile pour la navigation à Makassar: pas de panneaux indicateurs, trafic très intense aux heures de pointe et ils roulent dans toutes les directions. Beaucoup de frayeurs, car bien sur, on achete simplement son permis de conduire ici, lorsqu'on en a un. Pour aller à Toraja, aller vers l'aeroport (quelques panneaux) et continuer. Vers le sud, je suis pas trop sur de la route, je risque de tourner un peu avant d'aller dans la bonne direction.
Merci pour les coordonnées. Je les garderai pour un prochain trip à Sulawesi.
Si tu as 4 ou 5 jours devant toi (ou si y'a vraiment trop de monde à cause d'Idul Fitri 😛), chartérise un bateau (attention tout seul c'est cher, c'est du 100 euros par jour car il faut un vrai bateau, pas une pirogue) et vas sur Taka Bonerate. Cet archipel est bien placé dans mon p'tit "Top 5 Indonésie" 🙂 J'ai perdu les coordonnées du gars qui nous a trimbalé 5 jours dans l'archipel mais il s'appelle Ichal, vit sur Pulau Jinato, transporte des langoustes entre Jinato et Selayar, et c'est le bureau de la police maritime (Polisi Laut) de Benteng qui m'avait mis en rapport avec lui.
(devant le lagon de Pulau Jinato: le maire de l'île, mon inséparable Rumaji et Capt'n Ichal)
(Pulau Tinabo et ses étoiles de mer: la seule île qui possède un resort, hors de prix, nous avions dormi sur la plage)
Trajet Makassar à Bira; en matinée, bouchons dans chaque ville sur la route, à cause des marchés et des bemos qui se garent n'importe ou, alors ça bloque et prends du temps pour continuer la route. Beaucoup de vent vers Bentaeng, ça souffle vraiment beaucoup.
Nuit du Dimanche 27: célébration du nouvel an. Feux d'artifices tard dans la nuit, ronflement de moteurs; assez bruyant, mais c'est le nouvel an.
Ai trouvé une chambre assez chère (400,000, pas de luxe, le stric minimum), car pratiquement tout est plein. Pour la nuit de lundi 28, tout est vraiment plein. On voit même des "chambres" dénuées de tout, sans toilettes pour 200,000 la nuit. Pas mal de touristes locaux sur la plage, mais pas surpeuplée non plus. Quelques banana boats qui bossent, des bateaux qui vont vers l'ile d'en face.
hi there! I’m heading to Vietnam with a biker friend for 3 months, starting from Hanoi... the plan is to do the northern loop, return to Hanoi, then head down to Ho Chi Minh City... and probably ride back up through the mountains. We’re leaving in February. Just a little detail—we’re two retirees, both 63, used to riding motorbikes, and we have French and international licenses... we’re looking for good tips and advice since we’re planning to buy 125cc Chinese bikes locally. Thanks to everyone, and happy trails—life is beautiful!
Hey everyone!
New to the forum, but not so new to Asia 😄
I’m Nico, from Switzerland, currently based in Bangkok. I love taking my motorcycle out to get lost in the mountains and small villages of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and more. I’ve been roaming around this area for a good fifteen years now, racking up quite a few kilometers—especially in northern Vietnam.
This time, I finally decided to tackle the Mae Hong Son Loop, clockwise. I’d been to Pai several times before, but oddly enough, I’d never done the full loop.
So, I’ll try to give you a little recap here, day by day, with the roads, stops, places worth checking out… and those that didn’t quite blow my mind 😅
I also filmed the trip, so I’ll post the corresponding video at the end of each day if that’s okay. If it’s not allowed here, just let me know, and I’ll remove them without any issue.
DAY 1 — Chiang Mai → Doi Inthanon → Mae Chaem → Khun Yuam
I left Chiang Mai after renting a Honda ADV 160 from Pop Motorbike. Not exactly an Africa Twin, but for what I had planned, it was more than enough.
Quick hotel note: I stayed at the Lanna Thaphae Hotel before leaving. Around 30 € per night, super well-located, and probably one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. A crucial detail for any motorcycle road trip, obviously.
The plan for the day was pretty straightforward:
Head toward Doi Inthanon… and see what happens.
Flawless Swiss organization.
First stop along the way at Wachirathan Waterfall. A really nice waterfall, very easy to access, but don’t expect to channel your inner Indiana Jones—it’s crowded, touristy, and swimming isn’t allowed. Still, it’s a pretty stop along the way.
Next, up to Doi Inthanon.
The road climbs steeply, and my little 160cc started to realize that carrying my 80 kg to Thailand’s highest point probably wasn’t part of its youthful dreams. I was maxing out at 34 km/h in some spots.
But it made it. Good little bike.
The summit is nice—the forest is beautiful, and it’s cool—but I have to admit, it didn’t completely wow me. Glad I went, but not necessarily the highlight of the day for me.
Because then comes Route 1192.
And that’s *much* more my thing: small mountain roads, beautiful scenery, hardly any traffic… the kind of road where I usually start taking way too many unnecessary detours just because a little side road “looks fun.”
Stopped in Mae Chaem for a bite to eat, then headed to Khun Yuam to finish the day.
A little over 200 km in total.
Khun Yuam is… quiet.
*Very* quiet. 😅
A cute little market, a couple of cafés/restaurants, and zero chance of ending up in a club until 4 AM. But after a day on the bike, it was perfect.
Stayed at the Mit Khun Yuam Hotel, around 20 € for a small but very decent room.
All in all, a solid first day and a pretty relaxed start to the loop. Part of this leg is mostly about getting out of Chiang Mai and really diving into the mountains, in my opinion.
Because for me, the really interesting stuff starts over the next two days…
And a few slightly questionable route decisions will also make an appearance 😅
If anyone’s planning the Mae Hong Son Loop, feel free to ask your questions—I’d be happy to answer!
I also filmed this first day, so for those who’d rather see the roads and landscapes than read my rambling, here’s Day 1 😊
DAY 1 VIDEO
I’ll post the next part in the coming days with Day 2: Khun Yuam → Mae Surin → Mae Hong Son.
And that’s where it starts getting *really* fun. 😉
That’s all for now! Looking forward to contributing as much as I can to the forum!
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
hi
I’m planning a 10-month trip to South America, and I’m looking into options for shipping a motorcycle to Buenos Aires by air or sea. If anyone has any info, thanks in advance!
christian
Hello everyone.
I'm looking for campsites around BOLZANO (South Tyrol) for early September.
I'll be on my motorcycle with a small tent.
I've noticed that some campsites have exorbitant prices.
If you've traveled through the Dolomites by motorcycle or otherwise and camped there, I'd love any tips on places and prices where I can stay for one night or several.
Thanks to all of you, and happy travels.
I’m starting to think about a trip that’s really close to my heart: Algeria by motorcycle, specifically the southern part of the country. It’d be for January 2025, and I’ve got two main questions:
Is it possible for an individual on a motorcycle to travel freely, outside of any organized tour, or does the regulation require some kind of supervision in the Algerian Sahara region?
Is the Hoggar massif accessible by road or by (rideable) tracks?
Beyond the official recommendations, I’m really looking for your firsthand experiences.
Thanks so much for your answers, and sorry if my questions are a bit newbie!
I just realized I’ve been registered on VoyageForum since... March 28, 2012 😊. Yet, I’ve barely participated until now.
August 1, 2026, will mark a somewhat special milestone: 5 years on the road.
We left Switzerland on August 1, 2021 with a simple idea: let chance decide our direction. We placed a bottle of wine on a world map, spun it... and it chose our first destination.
A year later, when we arrived in Morocco, we faced a new choice: continue toward Africa or head to Asia. This time, a tarot card game made the decision. Since then, we’ve tried to keep this journey as open to the unexpected as possible.
Today, that adds up to about 120,000 km, 46 countries, and over 1,800 days on the road—mostly by motorcycle, but also by sailboat, train, bus, hitchhiking, or on foot when adventure calls.
Our guiding thread isn’t just the motorcycle, but service exchanges. Instead of simply passing through countries, we try to stop regularly to lend a hand to the people we meet. So far, that’s about 600 days of volunteering.
Over the years, we’ve:
renovated a house in Croatia
made earth bricks in the Moroccan desert
helped sail a boat through the Greek islands
looked after houses, dogs, horses, a camel... and lots of other animals
worked at a street art festival in Morocco
created videos for local associations and projects
worked the grape harvest on the Tibetan plateau
been accredited as "media" for the World Nomad Games in Central Asia
Some of the moments that have stuck with us the most include six months in China, a night spent on the Great Wall, the Pamir Highway, the Silk Road, three months in Taiwan, and the incredible encounters in the mountains of Central Asia.
We travel on Falkor, our lucky dragon—a 2014 BMW F800GS that’s been with us since the start and is starting to have some great stories of its own.
While we share our adventure on Instagram, Polarsteps, and YouTube, that’s not why we’re here. The forum’s rules about promotion are clear, and I totally get them. If I’m finally taking the time to write, it’s mostly because after five years on the road, I thought our experience might be useful to other travelers.
Happy to chat about:
preparing for a long motorcycle trip
visas and borders
the Silk Road and Central Asia
riding in China (with or without a motorcycle)
volunteering and service exchanges while traveling
gear, daily life on the road... or just the unexpected moments that make long-term travel so special
Looking forward to swapping stories and hearing about your adventures too! 😊 Greetings from Thailand, and happy to chat! ✌️
Hello, I’m retired and planning a roughly 3-week motorcycle trip (1200gs). The dates aren’t set in stone yet, and everything’s open to discussion—I’m pretty flexible with the planning.
hi
planning to ride through Rajasthan on a motorcycle in January 2027 and I’d love to hear about the road conditions.
I’ll be riding with a buddy on a Royal Enfield that I’ll rent in Delhi.
Thanks for your tips!
hi there
I’d like to ride the RN 12 by motorcycle in September.
I’d love to know the main challenges—I ride a 300cc and do enduro in France.
Thanks for your tips!
I’m planning a motorcycle road trip to Armenia and Georgia in September 2026 or May 2027. I’m looking for one or more riders (male or female) who’d like to explore these countries with me.
Along the way, we’ll visit Cappadocia, the capitals Yerevan, Tbilisi, Sofia, Skopje, and other cities—we can finalize the route and roadbook later.
This trip requires experience with long motorcycle journeys, as we’ll cover around 7,000 km over 5 or 6 weeks (or more, depending on sightseeing and time spent).
I don’t expect dozens of applicants, since motorcycle riders are few and far between on this forum, but I’m putting this out there anyway.
Hi, I’d like to take a 15-day "break" to get away from the surrounding hustle and bustle.
Why not explore the Peloponnese!
I’m not particularly drawn to museums, ruins, or monuments.
I want to experience local life—small villages, seaside spots, beaches, and the interior if the landscapes are extraordinary.
Ideally, coming from Athens, I’d take a bus or train to get as close as possible to a starting point, then rent a scooter (125cc) to explore by taking secondary roads or even coastal paths. I’d stay in 2-3 places for a few days each to discover their surroundings.
Do a loop.
What do you think would be the ideal itinerary?
From Athens, the best option would be to take either a flight or a bus to Kalamata. Rent a scooter and head either west or east. Is there a tertiary road (very lightly trafficked) or a path where I can ride slowly, take it easy, and enjoy the scenery without being bothered by traffic? I’d like to go all the way to Monemvasia, still hugging the coast. I need to find a way to avoid returning to Kalamata to drop off the scooter and catch a flight—maybe a small town where the train stops so I can head back to Athens.
Thanks in advance for your tips.
I want to rent an off-road style motorcycle to get around the coast during my trip to Ecuador. I’m only finding options in Quito. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi there,
I’m planning a sidecar trip to South America for 4 or 5 months at the end of this year.
I’m looking for info on shipping my vehicle by sea—possibly to Uruguay or another destination, as I haven’t finalized anything yet.
How do you get visas for the countries I’ll be crossing: Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Chile? Are they e-Visas, obtained at the border, or through embassies?
Where can I get vehicle insurance?
Lastly, if any bikers want to join us (my partner and me), we’re open to that possibility too.
Patrick
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike.
Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering:
Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*?
Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Hello,
I'm thinking of buying a used small motorcycle to travel around the country for a month and a half.
I've done this in other countries without putting the registration in my name—is that possible in Guinea given the apparently frequent checks, or do I have to go through the paperwork?
Thanks.
Hello,
My dream is to ride Route 66 by motorcycle. I have a disability—while I’m not in a wheelchair, my walking mobility is reduced.
The ideal scenario would be to have a motorcycle driver and ride as their passenger on an organized trip.
Are there any guides or services like this offered by travel agencies?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Hello,
I’ve got a plan with a friend to go on a motorcycle road trip in 2028 or 2029, starting in Santiago de Chile and ending in Ushuaia, for about a month.
Has anyone done a trip like this before, and what’s the best time of year?
I’ve heard there can be quite a bit of wind depending on the season.
Thanks for any tips!
Cheers,
PA
I'm seriously considering heading to Nepal to do some nice motorcycle loops... my goal is also to do the Kailash Yatra round trip from Kathmandu, in a small group with a guide, in May '26... but here's the thing—I'm solo! So if you're up for sharing a similar adventure, hit me up... Cheers, Frankoys
It's all in the title: I'm heading to Krabi soon and want to rent a scooter for a few weeks, but after reading comments about all kinds of scams, I'm reaching out to ask where and how (read: *the right way*) to rent one.
Thanks for your tips and advice.
Hello everyone! Like every year, a winter migration is on the horizon (revised plan): this time, it’ll be Dakar, or even Abidjan, via Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal.
Looking for an experienced motorcyclist or pillion rider—small build preferred—on a GSA 1250 with a comfy seat and luggage setup, available from early November to late December 2025. I’d like to plan the trip together (important to me) to make sure we’re on the same wavelength.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Didier
Looking for travel companions to ride from France to Senegal by motorcycle.
I’m Paul, 37, and I’ve already done a bit of riding in Morocco.
For now, I’m solo, riding a 1998 SUZUKI DR 650 with some basic gear to keep things smooth. I’ll have a tent so we can do a few nights under the stars.
We’ll need to coordinate departure dates—"ideally in November."
I’m currently checking out routes to take. Any tips would be welcome! :)
I’m heading to Vietnam and Laos with a buddy next week for a month.
We’re thinking of renting motorbikes, especially to do the Ha Giang Loop. We don’t have an international license, just our Belgian one. Is that enough? If not, is it risky?
In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎
We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.
If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.
Hello! We’re planning a motorcycle trip that will include a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau in June 2026.
We’re unsure (still debating) whether we should stay at a hotel on-site and get to the memorial with an Uber (leaving our bikes at the hotel) and book a guided tour, or base ourselves in Kraków and take a tour that includes transport.
One thing’s for sure—we’d prefer a guide in French since we don’t speak English 😅.
Could you share your experiences or advice?
I understand we need to book online rather than on-site.
Thanks in advance for your replies!
(devant le lagon de Pulau Jinato: le maire de l'île, mon inséparable Rumaji et Capt'n Ichal)
(Pulau Tinabo et ses étoiles de mer: la seule île qui possède un resort, hors de prix, nous avions dormi sur la plage)
The Moluccas: Splendors (and Struggles) of an Archipelago Unknown to Tourists
Off on an adventure to Java (and a bit of Bali)
Cruise around the islands of Komodo
A little piece of Sulawesi with the family: Rantepao and Selayar
Sumatra: Off the Beaten Path in Asia
The Pearl of Africa - July-August 2026
Tanzania Classics (Safari & Zanzibar)
Getting Away to Ireland
