Trekking in Guizhou Province, Southern China
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GE
We watched the show "Rendez-vous en terre inconnue" in Guizhou Province, China. Those stunning landscapes really made us want to go trekking in the region. Do you have any valuable tips to share to help us plan this trip?
DA Danniello Regular ·
Yes, it's a really beautiful report. The reporters spent an enormous amount of time finding these kinds of remote villages. In other words, they're still inaccessible for the average tourist because there's no road infrastructure or accommodation. But for backpackers, absolutely.

All the accessible and well-equipped areas are often heavily altered by mass tourism and bear no resemblance to the villages in "En terre inconnue" (Unknown Lands).

I'll be in Guizhou in May. Following the tourist circuit of Miao or Dong villages isn't my thing. I plan to use Zhaoxing—a hyper-touristy Dong village—as a base for comfort, internet, etc. From Zhaoxing, I intend to explore on foot and backpack through the small, lost villages in the mountains south of Zhaoxing. I've created my own highly detailed maps, which are available on my smartphone. I plan to set off for several days on small mule trails, moving from village to village without being sure of comfortable food or lodging. In short, adventure far from the tourists.
JI JianadaRen Globetrotter ·
It’s definitely a stunning place to visit, but it’s not easy. This is China’s poorest province, and tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It’s really tough to explore in an interesting way without some Mandarin skills. I wouldn’t recommend it for a first trip to China.
GE Genetam ·
Yes, really beautiful report. The reporters spent an enormous amount of time finding this kind of remote village. In other words, it's still inaccessible for the average tourist because there are no road infrastructures or accommodation. But for the backpacking adventurer, yes.

All the accessible and equipped areas for visitors are often heavily modified by mass tourism and no longer resemble the village from "En terre inconnue" (Unknown Lands).

I’ll be in Guizhou in May. Doing the tourist circuit of Miao or Dong villages isn’t my thing. I’ve planned to use Zhaoxing—a hyper-touristy Dong village—as a base to have comfort, internet, etc. From Zhaoxing, I intend to explore on foot and with my backpack the small, lost villages in the mountains south of Zhaoxing. I’ve made my own highly detailed maps available on my smartphone. I plan to set off for several days on small mule trails, going from village to village without being sure of eating or sleeping comfortably. In short, adventure far from tourists.

Thanks for your reply.

We’re used to doing itinerant trips off the beaten track, away from road infrastructures, and occasionally doing without modern comforts and technology. Because of this, your adventure of setting off for several days really interests us. Would it be possible, please, for you to share your experience afterward? We’re thinking of doing this trip next autumn. Thanks in advance, Geneviève
GE Genetam ·
It’s indeed a stunning place to visit but not easy. It’s the poorest province in China, and tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It’s really hard to visit (in an interesting way) without some Mandarin. Not a destination I’d recommend for a first trip to China.

Thanks for your reply. You mention: - “tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)”. Which ones, please? - “hard to visit without some Mandarin”. Is it possible to find a local guide? Do you have an address? Thanks in advance. Geneviève
MA Marathon Globetrotter ·
It really is a stunning place to visit, but it's not easy. It's the poorest province in China, and the tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites). It's very difficult to visit (in an interesting way) without some knowledge of Mandarin. I wouldn't recommend it for a first trip to China.

Thanks for your reply. You say: - “the tourist infrastructure is minimal (except for a few sites)”. Which ones, please? - “difficult to visit without some knowledge of Mandarin”. Is it possible to find a local guide? Do you have an address? Thanks in advance. Geneviève

Hello,

I confirm Jianadaren and Danniello’s answers. The village featured in this amazing report reminded me of the hamlets around Zhaoxing, but much more isolated.

I have doubts about the possibility of finding a local guide who speaks a language other than Mandarin, but with the tourist development in Zhaoxing—which was still very remote when I visited—who knows...
TO Toth Veteran ·
Hi Genevieve,

Guizhou really isn’t easy to get your head around if you don’t speak Mandarin. I went there in 2015, around the village of Jiaju. You’ll find several isolated villages with no roads—they even hide the kids when you arrive. No hotels or restaurants either. Take a look at my travel journal here (page 2):

http://voyageforum.com/discussion/morceaux-chine-bout-sichuan-guizhou-d6937738-2/
DA Danniello Regular ·
In Guizhou, it's important to distinguish between visiting well-known, well-organized tourist spots and exploring lost villages like those in *En terre inconnue*. On these tourist circuits, don’t expect to find the same atmosphere as in the show’s villages. It’s not easy to mix the two.

In the France 2 program, you see villagers who are super welcoming and very communicative. But the director came three months earlier to prepare the villagers to host the two volunteer tourists. In reality, arriving in a lost village in China is completely different. The villagers won’t come to you. You have to find a way to make contact. Speaking Mandarin definitely helps break the ice more easily. All young Chinese who go to school speak Mandarin fluently, while those over forty struggle with it or don’t speak it at all.

Since last year, a new TGV connecting Guangzhou to Guiyang and a brand-new highway have further widened the gap between remote areas and tourist zones. On this map http://goo.gl/tD8i7u, you can see these tourist zones radiating around Guiyang and scattered along the rail line.

Here’s another map of the main tourist areas: http://goo.gl/DHxGH7

For explorers of lost areas, the stretch between Xijiang and Zhaoxing is where you should go.
TO Toth Veteran ·
I watched the show you mentioned, and they really did find a beautiful spot. From my own experience in Guizhou, it’s not that hard to come across places like that—around the small village of Jiaju, where I stayed for a few days, I was able to walk through or see villages quite similar to the one in the report. That said, staying overnight in those villages is a different story if you don’t speak the local language (not everyone speaks Mandarin in the remote villages). But with a base in a slightly more accessible village like the one I stayed in, you can easily explore these kinds of places without any issues.
DA Danniello Regular ·
My last post tried to explain the difference between following the classic tourist circuit and an adventure circuit. Toth, your trip to Guizhou really highlights all the implications and challenges of a truly custom journey.

If you're planning a trip to Guizhou, make sure to read Toth's travel journal. Look for: *Morceaux de Chine, un bout de Sichuan et du Guizhou*

If you really want to venture into remote villages like in the France 2 show, it's not easy, but it's definitely doable. However, this kind of trip requires a bit more preparation and often finding private transportation.

As a photographer myself, I really appreciated your high-quality photos. They make me want to get lost in the depths of Guizhou.
DA Danniello Regular ·
On the other hand, when it comes to staying in these villages, without speaking the local language (not everyone speaks Mandarin in remote villages), there’s little chance that’ll happen.

That’s what I’m gonna try this year.
BO Boqi Veteran ·
There’s no particular issue with finding accommodation in China, even without speaking Mandarin. It’s actually much easier to get lodging in China without speaking the local language than in some regions of India, for example.

I quickly checked out F2’s thing. The Miao is the Chinese name for the Hmong—it’s actually the main ethnic group in Laos. So if you want to meet Miao people, you just need to look for Laotians in France, and 9 times out of 10 they’ll be Hmong.

It’s not as isolated a village as they make it sound. They’re exaggerating the idea of remoteness. For example, the arrival trail obviously isn’t the real path connecting the small hamlet to the road.
TO Toth Veteran ·
Yeah, I think they exaggerate the isolation aspect too, and there’s probably a dirt road leading to the village. To get to the village where I was, we stopped on the road and then walked for two hours through the rice fields, but a dirt road did lead to the village. It’s the same for all the other surrounding villages I visited—they all had electricity and a dirt road. This is China, and connecting minorities by road and electricity is also a way for the government to control these ethnic groups. Even this village—https://www.flickr.com/photos/romimages/16171639631/in/album-72157647312223634/—which was across from my village and looked quite small and isolated, had a road and electricity.
TO Toth Veteran ·
Thanks Danniello for the kind words 😉
GE Genetam ·
Thanks to everyone for your comments. I’ve been quiet, but rest assured I’m reading all your messages carefully. All your photos are really beautiful. But Daniello’s photos, in a different style, are just as great. Thanks again for sharing your tips. Geneviève
DA Danniello Regular ·
Yes, I can confirm that every village, no matter how small, has a motorable access road. I’ve just planned a route that’ll take me through about ten remote villages. Everywhere, there are these roads that were recently built in a rush. But the old, charming paths connecting these little villages are still there.
GE Genetam ·
I just prepared a route that’ll cross about ten remote villages... But the old, really charming paths connecting these small villages are still there.

Could anyone point me to sources for detailed maps of the area? Thanks so much! Geneviève
CE Cecile285 ·
I’m planning to go trekking there. If I run into any issues, can I ask you for help? Of course, if you’re available
DA Danniello Regular ·
Personally, I use Google Earth, Google Maps, and Baidu.com to plan my hiking routes. It's not comparable to our famous French IGN maps, but I haven't found anything better.
DA Danniello Regular ·
Hi there, Genetam’s post might have inspired some of you to check out this documentary. For the past few days, the DVD of this show has been available on Amazon for around 10 € and on iTunes for about 2 €.

The village’s location at the top of a hill is truly idyllic. I’m sure this show will make a lot of people want to go discover this little village. In the episode, they don’t mention the name of the village (I wouldn’t either, to respect their peace and quiet). It’s tucked away in the YueLiangShan mountains, about sixty kilometers south of Rongjian. With such difficult access, it’s clear that travel agencies won’t be offering it to tourists anytime soon.

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