Since December is the driest month in the Khumbu, I decided not to bother with my rain poncho. My Gore-Tex jacket was enough during the hail (though I had to stop at the first teashop I came across after a nasty fall on the trail caused by slipping on a small rock).
For early November, I probably would’ve taken my rain poncho, just to be safe.
Hi Fabrice,
I think I’m gonna get myself a rain cape, haha 😄.
Another question just popped into my head—are there regular water points along the way to refill my water bottle? Or should I start the day with 2L of water in my pack?
I've done the Three Passes trek twice. In autumn 2014, I never had to pay for the room—just for meals (when I asked, they’d just say "okay." You couldn’t even call it a negotiation). In spring 2017, we had to pay half, but never more than 200 rupees...
Those room rates make a big difference in the budget!
Hi Julien,
That’s great news because my filtering water bottle only holds 750ml. I’ll still take a small extra bottle, but at least I won’t need to start each day with 2 liters of water in my pack. 😊
Generally, water is indeed quite accessible in the Khumbu region. Below Namche, there are many villages or hamlets, all at least equipped with a fountain (some dried up since the 2015 earthquake, but a new supply system was installed with a simple plastic pipe). However, above Namche Bazaar, there are far fewer villages, even though teashops are frequent along the EBC trail.
Off the EBC trail, there are a few exceptions.
For example, I don’t recall crossing any streams between Chhukhung and the Khumbu Glacier via the Kongma La. There are lakes, but that’s not my preferred water source.
Similarly, I don’t remember any streams between Pangboche and the Ama Dablam base camp. Or between Tabuche Kharka (off the beaten path) and the Khumbu Khola before Pheriche.
Additionally, at high altitudes, streams can be frozen, for example, above Gokyo toward the upper lakes. Even at my lodge in Gokyo, water supply wasn’t straightforward because all the pipes were frozen during the two days I was there. Same for Gokyo Lake. It’s tricky, especially for toilets.
Gorakshep is known for its lack of water sources, and indeed, I saw an employee breaking up a block of ice and bringing it back to his lodge.
Throughout my trek in the region, every morning, I set off with 2 x 1L bottles and a ½L bottle (easier to refill with a trickle of hard-to-reach water). I’d also hydrate well at breakfast (VG thukpa = noodle soup with vegetables).
gourde filtrante ne fait que 750ml
In my opinion, this doesn’t eliminate the need for water purification. Typically, tablets or drops (like Piyush) are recommended for 1L quantities.
Fabrice
P.S.: My 3 plastic bottles (2 x 1L + ½L) came from Paris and returned to Paris 😉
Thanks for your replies.
Just FYI, I already tried the filtering water bottle on the Annapurna Circuit two years ago and had no issues at all 😊.
But I’ll still bring a few purification tablets just in case.
Does this basically mean we have to pay for the room (for 2 people) each time, either 500 or 700 Rs, and then add the meal costs?
Yes, that’s exactly it. And menu prices haven’t been lowered at all.
What’s more, if you’re a solo trekker like I was, you’re charged the full room price, which adds a hefty extra cost.
I was ready—and even eager—to share a room, but at the end of the season, there weren’t many takers. Don’t count on the hotel owner to play matchmaker; you’ll have to find a roommate yourself, which I managed for my first night in Chhukhung and the one in Lobuche. Only two nights, though.
Does this mean there’s no way to negotiate anymore?
At the end of the season, early December 2018, I *did* manage to negotiate a few times, usually by being *very* persistent. I wasn’t asking for freebies—just to pay for one bed, agreeing to share the room if needed. But most lodge owners flat-out refused.
Here’s what you should know about peak season:
- There are checkpoints set up at strategic spots controlling access to higher areas (e.g., Shomare for Pheriche and Dingboche), where young staff enforce the room fee for every trekker in exchange for an official voucher from the Khumbu lodge owners’ association.
- In the evenings, the same staff come around to check that every guest has a voucher. If not, they collect the room fee on the spot. The atmosphere got pretty heated, and apparently, things escalated in October/November 2018.
When this practice was reported on TripAdvisor in early November 2018, most experienced forum users assumed it was a new scam targeting novice trekkers... implying they’d never fall for it. But a young Sherpa lodge owner in Dingboche confirmed that the local government had initiated this system, and there were inter-professional meetings to evaluate and adjust it.
I’d noticed a similar price-fixing agreement at Machhapuchare Base Camp in late November 2017, maybe even in the previous hamlet. In 2017, the local government tried to extend this agreement to all accommodations on the ABC trek but had to backtrack after protests from trekking agencies worried about losing customers. But in the Khumbu, overcrowding is so bad that lodge owners aren’t afraid of losing business.
Of the money collected, half goes to the lodges where guests stay (identified during the evening voucher checks), and the other half is kept centrally—partly to fund the collection and control system.
In early December 2018, I didn’t see those staff operating, probably because there weren’t enough trekkers left to justify keeping the system in place.
Also, after Namche Bazar, I always avoided the classic EBC trail:
- Stayed in Phortse before sleeping in Upper Pangboche.
- Walked to Tabuche Kharka, then continued to Pheriche/Dingboche—so I didn’t pass through Shomare.
- Then carried on via the Three Passes.
That was my plan to escape the overcrowding on the EBC trek.
By the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove)?
Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price skyrockets—like 2000 Rs or more. I’ve seen it explicitly stated on menus.
And by the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove?)
Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price is heavily increased. Like 2000 Rs and up. I’ve seen it explicitly mentioned on menus.
Fabrice
So, I was thinking that this threshold price might still be good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the whole trek!
Like paying 500 Rs but "saving" on meal costs...
My daydream only lasted 5 minutes!
Good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the entire trek!
As of now, fully independent trekking is still possible in the Khumbu region, and no guide is mandatory (except in the Bothe Kosi Valley toward Nangpa La, as it’s a restricted-access zone upstream from Lungden).
However, some Nepalis are envious of Bhutan’s policy requiring tourists to spend a minimum of $100/day. Such a premium-niche strategy is unrealistic for Nepal as a whole, since it caters to mass tourism (even if not on the same scale as beach tourism in some countries). The increase in daily spending per tourist wouldn’t offset the sharp drop in visitor numbers.
That said, a premium strategy *could* work in limited, easily controlled geographic zones. In a way, this is already the case for Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo (with a $50/day permit). I’ve met several Sherpas who want a Bhutan-style policy for the Khumbu. Since the 2017 decentralization law, the local Khumbu government might have the authority to implement it—just as they already collect the local 2,000 Rs tax that replaced the TIMS.
Plus, it would help manage overcrowding at peak season.
Fabrice
P.S.: Between Thame and Namche Bazar, I saw an ad for wealth management and tax optimization consulting. Makes sense—the Khumbu has the highest per capita income in all of Nepal.
This is absolutely not the Nepalese government's goal—they're planning for 500,000 visitors a year in the Khumbu, 10 times more than today, mainly thanks to the new road to Lukla, which will bring lots of Nepalese and Indian tourists by 4x4 and motorbike.
Hi everyone!
I’m planning the Cape Town part of our trip and would love to hike up Table Mountain via Platterklip Gorge and take the cable car back down.
Is it safe to hike this trail in early January without a guide (there are 4 of us: 3 adults and a teen)?
If a guide is highly recommended, do you know a good one?
If we end up taking the cable car both ways, is it safe to hike the summit without a guide (Mc Lear's Beacon trail)?
Same question for Lion’s Head: with or without a guide?
We’re used to hiking technical trails (Réunion Island), so my question is more about the risk of mugging on these trails.
Thanks for your feedback!
Malijp
We’re two people looking to do a somewhat off-the-beaten-path trip in Mauritania, heading toward Adrar, Atar, and Chinguetti.
We’re pretty active and are aiming for hiking days of 4–8 hours.
Would anyone have a local guide to recommend?
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Stay tuned for trip reports from a series of 5 treks between Zanskar and Ladakh from early August to early September 2026, always solo and fully self-sufficient with around 20 kg of gear. Make sure to bring good equipment for cold nights at high altitude, even in summer, a sturdy tent to handle thunderstorms and hail, and a solid pair of sandals for crossing the many glacial streams. If you don’t fly directly into Leh but, like me, come from Kargil, you won’t find gas canisters... In that case, I used a small alcohol stove with thinner bought locally since denatured alcohol is impossible to find in India. The thinner worked perfectly as fuel, even at high altitude—it’s sold for just 120 rupees per liter in paint shops.
I did these two treks in Himachal Pradesh in September 2026. The Pin Parvati trek absolutely must be done before mid-September to have favorable weather conditions, while the Bara Banghal trek can be done until the end of September. In both cases, the weather window is limited because these treks are only feasible between the post-monsoon period (early September) and the more or less early arrival of the first snowfalls (mid-October or even earlier). I chose to do these two treks back-to-back with just a few days in between, taking a welcome break in the village of Kasol, which is really pleasant with its German bakeries on every corner, set in the stunning Parvati Valley—much better than the unremarkable village of Barsheni. From Kasol, there are plenty of bus connections to the Kullu Valley, but they’re long due to the narrow, winding, and sometimes badly damaged roads. From Kullu, Manali is very close and easy to reach.
Completed the trek in 6 days from October 23 to October 28, 2026, fully self-sufficient (pack around 18 kg at the start), starting from Phalyagaon and ending in Marpha. Approximately 90 km and 5,000 m of elevation gain.
For transportation, take a bus from Pokhara to Beni (400 NRP), then a bus or shared jeep from Beni to Phaliyagaon (700 NRP by bus or 1,000 NRP by jeep after negotiating...). Allow a full day for the journey.
Homestay in Phaliyagaon at the village entrance and before the suspension bridge to reach Mauri.
Most agencies start from Mauri, but it's hard to find public transport...
The trail currently extends to Boghan because of a massive hydroelectric project under construction, which is altering the valley.
Phaliyagaon to Boghan is 27 km with quite a bit of elevation gain, but doable in one long day for an experienced hiker.
From Boghan, the real trail begins under forest cover up to the Sallagari lodge, then the high mountain starts. Camping is possible at Italien Campsite, but it's a real factory. If you've got the energy, you can continue to Swiss Campsite in about 2 hours, but with a steep climb. Plan for water.
Above the Swiss camp, the glacial moraine and then the snow cover begin.
Base camp at 4,600 m before crossing the French Pass, often crowded but plenty of space (on the snow!). Freezing temperatures at night. I was lucky with little wind, which isn’t always the case!
The ascent of the French Pass is fairly steady, with a trail easy to follow in the snow unless there’s been recent snowfall! Beautiful views of Dhaulagiri...
Polar temperatures and freezing nights in the Hidden Valley with violent winds that make it even colder. Impossible to heat water in the morning because it was frozen and the wind was too strong. This wind continued during the entire ascent of the Dhampus Pass, then the long traverse of a plateau descending but still around 5,000 m (8 to 10 km), always in the snow, before finally starting the final descent to Marpha.
Last night recommended at Alu Bari at 3,800 m rather than Yak Karka, with a stunning view of the Annapurna range if the weather is clear, of course! From Alu Bari, an easy trail leads to Marpha, 1,000 m lower and about 5 km away...
Note that at the various camps, you can get hot water from the agency cooks if you ask politely, of course! It’s a great help, especially since the available water is usually freezing and takes a long time to heat with just a stove...
The trek doesn’t present any technical difficulties if you’re well-acclimatized and in good physical condition to handle high-mountain conditions. Perfect weather is imperative, which was the case for me.
The trek is doable without agencies or mandatory guides; only the ACAP permit is required for the Dhampus Pass (3,000 NRP), but no one ever asked me for it. Issued in 10 minutes in Pokhara.
An interesting trek, far from the crowds of the Annapurnas or Everest Base Camp.
After Seoul, I’m back on the forum again 😏, to talk about Inwol in Jirisan. I’ve planned to stay there for 3 nights to hike the Jirisan Dulle-gil trail—two sections, partly... I’m really struggling to find accommodations in Inwol that are close to the trail. I know it’s early and not all options are listed yet, but even when I set dates closer together, it’s still not obvious... If you know the area, I’d love any tips! My whole itinerary depends on finding a place to stay...
I know there are plenty of discussions on VF about the Poon Hill trek, but most seem outdated and/or don’t provide info specific to February. That’s why I’m bringing this topic back up.
Here’s my plan:
- Spending about two weeks in Nepal in the first half of February.
- Maybe extending by a few days to a week if needed.
- Heading to Pokhara—first time for my partner, second for me (I was there in September/October 1982!).
- Doing a relatively easy 4- to 5-day trek. We’re not exactly spring chickens anymore (though we’re in pretty good shape for our age).
- We don’t want to go above 3,000–3,500 meters, deal with difficult sections if there’s too much snow, or face daytime temperatures below 10°C. No problem if it drops to 0–5°C at night since we’ll be sheltered somewhere.
So, I’m wondering if the Mardi Himal trek might be too demanding for us, and if we’d be better off sticking with Poon Hill.
What do the experts think?
My partner, our daughter, and I are planning a walking trip to Madagascar in July-August 2027.
We’d love any tips or info you can share about this plan.
Which regions should we prioritize?
Is a local guide better than a well-established agency?
Where’s the best place to buy our flight tickets from Réunion?
Thanks for your input!
Hi everyone, we’re traveling by bike, but the same question comes up for hiking: what simple products can we find in towns or villages to eat/cook and get enough nutrition for physical effort, all while keeping costs affordable? Otherwise, where can we find inexpensive dietary supplements? Since I’m on cortisone, I have to be careful about what I eat. Thanks in advance, Aichatou
We're planning to go at the end of November/beginning of December to visit (with a rental car) and hike on La Palma and El Hierro for 15 full days, including 1 day for inter-island ferry transfers. What’s the best split between the two islands—8 days on La Palma and 6 on El Hierro, or even more time for La Palma? Should we have one or two home bases on La Palma? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi there,
We’re planning an 8-day backpacking trip on the island of São Nicolau. We’re torn between taking the boat from São Vicente or an inter-island flight. I’ve heard the boats don’t always run?
We’d like to make three homestay stops to travel in a star pattern from each of the three points.
First stop around Juncalinho, second stop near Cachaco, and finally a third leg near Tarrafal. We’re looking for simple but authentic guesthouses (no hotels). Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hello,
In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão.
We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours.
One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi.
What’s the trail like?
Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,
Here’s what we’re planning:
A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.
With the agency:
An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk.
Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening.
We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old.
What do you think of this itinerary?
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
hi how can I get internet when I arrive at Haneda? I mean in areas without free wifi. Is it more interesting to buy a SIM card? If so, at the airport? thanks for your help
Hi there,
I’m planning to cross the Gourgs Blancs Pass at the end of the month, from La Soula Refuge to Portillon Refuge. On this section near the pass, I don’t have any trail marked on my IGN map. Is the path well signposted, or should I use a compass?
Also, beyond the physical effort, are there any technical, exposed, or vertigo-inducing sections on this part?
Since I’m finding very little info, I’m being thorough with my questions.
Not very well known: Hokkaido Island has national parks that rival those in North America. Hiking there is free (even many mountain huts) and requires no formalities. These treks are described in the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide—you can just buy the Hokkaido PDF. It’s way better than Mount Fuji. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which is very unstable in the Japanese mountains (frequent strong winds). The trails are often obstacle courses.
The Daisetsu Zan traverse is a stunning hike through volcanic terrain with a remote section in the middle that requires at least one night of camping (there are basic huts for the rest, which is popular with Japanese hikers): 4 to 6 days.
The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!
Hi everyone,
I’m leaving on Monday, August 3rd for my very first long-distance trek: the GR223 from Coutances to Mont Saint-Michel, over 6-7 days (~11-14 miles/day), solo.
I’m looking for tips from people who know this section well (Coutances → Regnéville-sur-Mer → Hauteville-sur-Mer → Bréhal → Granville → Genêts → bay crossing):
Budget-friendly accommodations: I’m struggling to find affordable stopover lodgings (a lot of what I find online are expensive vacation rentals, not really suited for a solo hiker). If you have any great spots (hostels, hiker-friendly B&Bs, nice campgrounds), I’d love to hear them!
Bay crossing: Any feedback on guides/providers leaving from Genêts for the final crossing?
General tips for a first long-distance trek: What you wish you’d known before your first time, pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
