Hi, just a quick note mainly for Samsong, even if he’s still giving me the silent treatment. I’ve been in Nan since yesterday and... I love it! So thanks, Thierry. It’s exactly the kind of place I’d been dreaming of... Even if communication is a bit tough, it’s not impossible. They don’t even know the most basic English words! Everyone laughs and they’re the first to pull out their phones to... translate. They’re even quicker on the uptake than I am. And then there’s the time I say Nan (pronounced "Nane"). They don’t understand me. After a while (sometimes a long one), they reply: "Ah, Nan?" (pronounced "Nane") 😵🤳😃

The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...

Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.

I really loved Thailand, but it was too touristy for my taste. So I'm hesitating about going back and wondering if Cambodia or Vietnam would be less crowded with tourists...

Hello, I’ve been to Thailand three times a long time ago, and I’d love to visit neighboring countries too: Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia (while returning to Thailand 😛). The catch is that I’d like to go at the beginning of the year, but I’ve heard that’s peak tourist season for these countries. Ideally, I’d prefer to avoid peak season to save money (I’m not exactly rolling in it) and to be able to travel without reservations—without being forced to take a room in the local "palace" that still has availability because of its exorbitant prices.

From my distant memories of Thailand, I usually paid around the equivalent of 20 € per night (with a hearty breakfast) for a hotel room with a mini-bar.

What are the average prices for this type of accommodation in Thailand and its neighbors during "peak" season these days? Do prices fluctuate a lot depending on the season, or is tourist demand not that different from one season to another, keeping prices relatively stable? Are the chances of finding a "budget" room without a reservation still high, no matter the season, in this part of the world? 😇

Hi everyone, I’m starting to plan my next trip to Southeast Asia this winter (2.5 months, leaving in early December), and here’s a rough outline of my route—I’d love to share it with you and hear your thoughts and tips.

- I’ll start in Bangkok and already have three spots I’ve marked: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, and Uthai Thani (I haven’t been to any of these places yet). - Next, I’d like to cross the country from west to east to reach the Laos border. I’d love suggestions for any interesting stops along this route—I don’t know this part of Thailand at all... - Then I’ll head into Laos, probably at Savannakhet (you can usually get a visa at the border). - > I’m tempted to spend a week in Hoi An, Vietnam, since I loved that city and the area when I visited two years ago. No visa needed for Vietnam now, so it could be a nice little detour. On the map, it doesn’t look too far, but I know you’ve got to be careful with these things, and I’m not sure if it’s a good idea. Any opinions on this? - Back to Laos (maybe via Dakta), and I’ll head south along the Mekong, probably doing the Bolaven Plateau loop that I missed last time. Then Paksé, the 4,000 Islands... I’ve been before, but I’d happily go back. - Crossing into Cambodia, I’ll follow the Mekong down to Phnom Penh (I know this area and love how untouristy it is). From there, I’ll probably spend a few days in Kep (quieter than Kampot). Still undecided, though. - Then back to Thailand (BKK), likely by plane from Phnom Penh since the borders between the two countries are currently closed (plus, let’s be honest, Cambodian roads... ;-). We’ll see how things look when the time comes. - After that, I’d like to explore southern Thailand, taking it slow with short hops. I’ve got my eye on Khao Sok National Park, and I’ve heard good things about Krabi... Again, I don’t know this region well, so any info or tips would be great.

So, I think this should be doable in 2.5 months, especially since I prefer short hops of 300 km max to avoid getting too tired, and I like staying 2-3 days in each place to explore. Plus, I’ll take a week off to relax if I find a spot I love—maybe by the sea for some real downtime.

Thanks for your feedback and for sharing your favorite spots! Pascal

Hi there,

I’m about to take a trip around the region in March. According to the "experts," which cities are really worth the detour? My key criteria: a slightly lively downtown + walkable. I’ve already been to the region a few years ago, but my memories are pretty mixed (Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani, Khon Kaen).

Thanks😎

Hi fellow travelers! I’m planning a little 3-week trip to Vietnam in mid-to-late March. It’ll probably be the only time I can go. I enjoyed Thailand but clearly preferred Laos—it was calmer. For Vietnam, I don’t have a precise idea of what I want to see yet, and I’m the type to improvise a bit once I’m there. I’m not super adventurous but I’m curious, and I prefer street food over restaurants, markets and off-the-beaten-path villages over big attractions. But I don’t want to miss the must-sees either. So, given that I’ll only be there for 3 weeks, I’m wondering: should I absolutely stick to either the north or the south? Or is it possible to have a nice, not-too-hectic trip by spending, say, one week in the south and two in the north?... (I’d take a multi-city flight for arrival and departure) What do you think? Thanks! 🙂

Hi there, Yesterday in the Thailand section, 100% of the new threads were just about beach destinations 😕... So here’s the counterattack in the form of this photo thread, dedicated solely to the countryside: the locals, their livestock, fields, farms, rice paddies, small rivers, and agricultural machinery. If you’ve got any pictures that fit these categories, feel free to add them! Comments welcome. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) indicate the area where it was taken.

Kanchanaburi:

Kanchanaburi:

Sri Chiangmai:

Soppong:

Tha Wang Pha:

Hi, I’m heading to Thailand (first time!) in a week. We planned to be in Khao Sok National Park on February 1st and 2nd. I got a message yesterday saying it wouldn’t be possible to do any activities on Lake Chiew Lan as planned because of “weather conditions.” Despite all my research, I can’t find any info that supports this. Does anyone have recent updates? Is it really impossible to visit the lake, and if so, are there any alternatives? They’re offering a walk to Bang Hua Rad waterfall instead. Any thoughts? We’re really disappointed—the lake looked amazing 😢

Hi there,

I’m heading back to Thailand soon, and from what I’ve been reading, it seems some beaches/islands are infested with these dreaded sandflies!

I’ve noted the remedy: rub the bitten area with 90% alcohol, then apply soothing cream.

But prevention is better than cure!

Which areas should I avoid right now?

Are there seasons that are more prone to these itchy invasions than others?

I’ve already stayed in Hua Hin, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Krabi, and Phuket without any issues like this.

I’d love to keep it that way...

Thanks

Hi there, We're thinking of spending 3 weeks in Koh Samui at the start of 2026. Where can we find accommodation close to a pretty beach that's not too touristy but not isolated either, near a small town or village? We've already been to Surin Beach on Phuket Island. We really liked that spot, but we've heard Koh Samui is great too. Thanks for your tips!

Hello,

Our flights are booked, and we’ll arrive in Thailand at the beginning of January.

Originally, we were supposed to spend 14 days there. But after booking the flights and seeing the prices, we’ll now be there for 20 days instead.

Our initial plan was: 2 days in Bangkok 1 day in Ayutthaya 4 days in Chiang Mai 6 days around Krabi

So we have 7 more days to fill. What do you recommend?

An extra day in Bangkok? Adding more days in the north? If so, where? Exploring another region, like Kanchanaburi or Cheow Lan Lake? Traveling north in stages instead of taking the overnight train?

A few extra details about us: For us, vacation isn’t about relaxation—we love walking, exploring, and packed days don’t bother us. Hiking for hours and doing active things is what makes us happy. That said, we also enjoy visiting villages and towns if they’re worth the detour. In Thailand, we’d like to visit temples too. We’re early risers, so our days tend to be long. 🙂 In short, we like to keep things moving during our trips. 😉

Unfortunately, seeing terraced rice fields isn’t possible in January. I read there are rice fields around Sukhothai. Are they green in January?

In the north, do you recommend Doi Inthanon, Huai Nam Dang, or Doi Chiang Dao National Parks? Which one is the most beautiful and best for January?

Hi everyone, I’m a die-hard fan of India, but it’s time I discovered Thailand too to broaden my Asian horizons. I’m heading there on January 19, 2025, for a 46-day trip (no visa needed as I’m French). I’ve pored over a few guidebooks and travel blogs. Based on what caught my interest, I’ve put together a rough itinerary and list of sights. But since I know absolutely nothing about Thailand, I’m kind of flying blind here. Since I’m not exactly a spring chicken anymore, I’ve opted for a few bases where I’ll stay several days in the same place. That way, I won’t have to change locations and hotels every day or so, packing and unpacking my suitcase constantly. Instead, I plan to explore the surrounding area each day, within a maximum radius of 50 to 70 km. So, first question: Is that kind of round-trip distance manageable in a day in Thailand? In India, renting a car for a day—with a driver—currently costs around 35 to 40 € per day. Knowing that 1,300 to 1,500 THB would be my absolute max, and even then, only if I don’t rent a car every single day. Which brings me to my second question: Am I being unrealistic? Otherwise—third question—once I’m settled in the city I’ve chosen as my base, can I get around within that 50–70 km radius using public transport? I’ve already booked all my hotels—with free cancellation—on booking.com at an average price of 950/1,000 THB per night. Does that put me in a good range for value for money? Or am I dreaming?

Here’s my plan:

BANGKOK (13 days, 14 nights): 1 week for exploring Bangkok – Kanchanaburi/Erawan National Park? – Ayutthaya/Lopburi? – Muang Boran – Samut – Songkram/Amphawa

Bangkok -> Chiang Mai by overnight train in first-class sleeper

CHIANG MAI (6 days/6 nights): Mae Hong Son – Hot springs – Chiang Dao – caves – Lamphun – other places to be decided on the spot based on what’s worth seeing and transport options

Chiang Mai -> Chiang Rai

CHIANG RAI (7 days/8 nights): Fang – Tha Ton – Chiang Saen – Doi Tung – Chiang Khong – Doi Ang Khang, Phu Chi Fah, etc.

Chiang Rai -> Phrae

PHRAE (4 days/5 nights): Lampang and surrounding areas, depending on what’s interesting to see

Phrae -> Loei

LOEI (4 days/5 nights): Phu Kradung – Chiang Khan and surrounding areas, depending on what’s worth seeing

Loei -> Buriram

PHIMAI (Nakhon Ratchasima/Khorat) (5 days/6 nights): Phimai – Prasat Muang Tam – Phanom Rung – Prasat Phanom Wan

Phimai -> Khorat (airport or train station) -> Bangkok (overnight in Bangkok)

Day 46: BANGKOK -> KOCHI

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice!

Hi there,

The round trip to Bangkok is almost booked.

Here’s the itinerary I’ve planned for this new trip to Thailand:

Arrival – 2 nights in Bangkok (any hotel recommendations? Very quiet, near Chinatown or by the river)

Train or taxi (which app should I use for Thailand?) to Phetchaburi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations?)

Daytime train to Surat Thani – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Pick up the rental car and head to Khao Sok – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Ko Kho Khao – 3 nights – relaxation (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Phang Nga Bay – 1 night (any base recommendations?)

Excursion in the bay, then drive to Krabi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations) or any other spot with beautiful, quiet beaches that you might know?

Return to Surat Thani – overnight train to Bangkok, then Ayutthaya (any hotel recommendations?)

Visit the site and transfer to the airport – sniff, time to head back!

If you have other suggestions, keeping in mind the trip’s vibe: beach time without crowds or entertainment, a bit of nature, a bit of culture, no stress... No domestic flights and charming accommodations (not at 150 € per night, even though the budget is reasonable!)

Not sure I’ll follow them all, but all your ideas are welcome! 😉

Thanks. 🙂

Hi everyone, great to be back here. In 10 days, we're heading to Thailand to escape the gloomy weather here and warm up our old bones over there. On the southeast coast, we're torn between Ko Chang and Ko Kood—we're looking for tranquility and the chance to do some snorkeling along the coast. Do you have any great tips for accommodation (max 30 €)? Maybe we should head straight to the southwest coast instead. Thanks for your input!

Hi there, After arriving in Ho Chi Minh City at the beginning of March 26, where I think I’ll stay for maybe two days (or more?), we’d like to spend a few days in the Mekong Delta. Is it better to stay in one place (Vinh Long, Cai Be, My Tho, An Binh, etc.) and take boat trips every day, or split our time between two or three spots, which means changing accommodation and moving our luggage around? Of course, agencies offer 3- or 5-day tours from Ho Chi Minh City, but are they really worth it, both financially and in terms of the visits themselves? What’s your experience with this? How did you do it, and if you had to do it again? Any tips? Thanks in advance for your help. Dominique

Hello everyone, we’re planning a trip to Vietnam at the end of June 2026 for at least two weeks. Our goal is to avoid rushing around too much and take our time, focusing on nature, hiking, and getting to know the locals. Here’s my first draft itinerary: Arrival and departure from Hanoi Sapa and its surrounding area Tam Coc – the "land Halong Bay" and Ninh Binh... Halong Bay (maritime) Cat Ba Island... I’d love to hear your thoughts, advice, and feedback. Looking forward to reading your replies. Cédric

hi everyone, I want to travel in the north for 3 weeks in September-October 2026 to meet ethnic minorities, photograph mountain rice terraces and their harvest, and revisit Halong Bay—but maybe Lan Ha Bay instead. Can you recommend one or more local agencies? Thanks, and happy holidays!

Hello everyone, We’re heading to Vietnam for 14 nights over the Christmas holidays as a family of four—I haven’t booked anything yet. I’d love your insights on Halong Bay (or Lan Ha Bay). We’re torn between going or not and spending an extra night in Ninh Binh (or somewhere else you’d recommend! Somewhere with a more picturesque vibe) given the late-December weather and cost (which agency do you recommend?). The upside might be that we’ll be there during the low season, so maybe fewer tourists? (Even though it’d be New Year’s Eve night.) Here’s our itinerary: Arrival in Ho Chi Minh City around 1 p.m. 2nd night in HCMC (no time for the Mekong Delta ☹️) Flight to Da Nang 3 nights in Hoi An Bus to Hue, 1 night in Hue City visit, overnight train to Ninh Binh 2 or 3 nights in Ninh Binh? Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay? 2 nights in Hanoi Departure Thank you so much in advance for your invaluable tips!

Hi there, I didn’t plan to return to Thailand this year, but my health conditions mean it’ll be the best place for me to stay between two trips to India. The tourism setup there is so well-organized that it’s the most "comfortable" country for a short visit. Thailand feels too sanitized for my taste, and there’s too much religion, Buddha, and the King, but it’s still the best option given how my health has been evolving. I’d considered two weeks in ThaTon for hiking, but I got too sick from the burn-offs during my trips to the mountains around Chiang Rai. So I’m not sure where to go this year. Definitely not the sea, touristy spots, or the mountains with burn-offs...

Thanks, friends, if you’ve got any suggestions.

Hello, After a lot of searching, exchanging ideas, and thinking it over, I’ve decided to go back to my original plan of spending two weeks in Bangkok. From January 19th to February 2nd. I’ll also take a quick trip for one night/two days to Ayutthaya (and return to Bangkok, where I’ll have kept the apartment I booked), and possibly the same for Kanchanaburi, depending on how I feel once I’m there—whether I find something more interesting in Bangkok or nearby. The key word is: taking my time to take photos, observe, taste, savor (in every sense of the word), and most importantly, not rushing. Beyond the must-see tourist spots, I’d love to wander around the city and maybe within a 40 to 50 km radius for a day trip to discover unusual and lesser-known streets, houses, temples, markets, gardens, and more. I’ll also be spending two weeks in Chiang Mai and two weeks in Nan. I’m open to any suggestions. Thank you so much!

Hi there!

I think the question’s in the title...

What price can I expect to pay in 2025 for a ride of about two kilometers in the tourist center?

Thanks😉

Hi, I’m heading to Thailand for the first time in early 2026 and I’m really struggling to pick a neighborhood to stay in Bangkok. Apart from being close to public transport (metro, skytrain, BRT), I’m torn between several areas. I don’t mind using public transport or walking long distances, but if every trip takes 45 minutes or an hour, it’ll quickly become a hassle given our relatively short time there.

We’ll be in Bangkok twice during our trip: first for a “short” 2-night stopover (arriving from France in the mid-afternoon, then leaving the day after next for southern Thailand by plane), and then again for 3 nights before flying back to France (arriving at the airport in the late afternoon, 3 nights there, then departing for France in the late morning).

I’ve seen so many different recommendations that I’m having a hard time deciding. I’ve read that staying near the river is great for sightseeing, and that taking the boat to get around is really pleasant. But I’m worried about being a bit isolated for evening outings (eating at a cheap little restaurant, having a drink—nothing too wild!).

Chinatown is tempting for the food—it looks amazing—and it doesn’t seem too far from the main sights with public transport. But I’ve read that it’s very noisy because it’s super touristy and there’s constant truck traffic. My friend isn’t thrilled about it, especially since another neighborhood interests her because she has a great discount at a hotel near Victory Monument/Phaya Thai (the Pullman hotel). Even though it’s close to public transport, I’ve seen that it’s mostly a shopping district? And even with transport, isn’t it a long trip to visit places like the Grand Palace?

We also had a plan to stay at an ibis near BTS Nana station in the Sukhumvit area, but again, I get the feeling it’s mostly a shopping district?

Anyway, I’d love to hear your thoughts because I’m really torn!

It’s also true that I haven’t really planned our Bangkok stays yet. I’d like to do the “classic” tourist sights like the Grand Palace and eat really well! Someone told me that the big shopping malls also have amazing food 🙂

Thanks for your input!

Imagine a peaceful fishing village, completely transformed by artists who worked their magic on the walls of 100 residential houses. That’s the remarkable story of the Tam Thanh mural village in Quang Nam province. Once similar to many other coastal villages in the area, it now firmly stands out on the tourist map for a day trip from Hoi An. In the summer of 2016, Tam Thanh was selected by a Korean-Vietnamese joint project called Art For A Better Community. The village was chosen to be their blank canvas, inspired by the success of mural villages in Korea. The project aimed to make Tam Thanh the first painted village of its kind in Vietnam. The joint project included five Korean artists and seven Vietnamese artists, along with local volunteers. They aimed to show Vietnamese people that art could be part of everyday life, no matter where you stand in society. The effort began with about three weeks of wall washing, followed by painting the walls of over 100 residents' houses. The project was a success, and the village came alive with the paintings. The entire village is now a breathtaking gallery just waiting to be explored. The murals capture the life and soul of the village—from young children playing to fishermen in the ocean. A mix of fantastic pieces offers stunning backdrops for photos. The painted art around the town didn’t just have a visual impact; it also had a social one. The village itself was chosen not only for the layout of the houses but also to contribute to economic development opportunities in Tam Thanh. Tourists now visit the once-overlooked village, creating more income for locals and making it a successful "art for a cause" project. For example, an entrepreneurial resident who owned a small local café invested 1,000,000 VND ($390 USD) in a sugarcane press a week before the paintings were completed. Sugarcane juice vendors then multiplied with the growth of tourism (5,000 VND - $0.20 USD). Walking down the village’s single street, it’s common to find locals selling refreshments and handmade crafts. In one house in particular, a tailor and his family are painted on an outer wall with incredible detail. The family started selling tote bags decorated by their young daughter. The asking price for the bags is 100,000 VND ($4 USD). If you’re looking for a way to support the village’s economy, this is it. Since there’s no middleman here, you can be sure your money goes directly to the community. Since the project’s completion, two other villages in the province have now been painted. The new mural villages were created with different local Vietnamese artists to raise awareness about each community’s issues. Tam Hai Island was redecorated to highlight the serious waste problem the population faces due to the lack of treatment plants. Another village on An Binh Island was painted to raise awareness among locals and tourists about the importance of environmental protection. How to get there Route No. 1: Cross the large Cua Dai bridge. Once you’ve crossed it, continue onto Duong 129/Duong Ven Bien. Stay on this road for 33 kilometers. Upside: this route has light traffic, no traffic lights, and no trucks or buses. It’s a great direct route to the village but offers little to see. You’ll eventually reach a crossroads. Turn right toward Tam Ky town, while the left will take you toward the mural village; stay on Road 608 as it turns twice before reaching a bridge. Cross the bridge, and you’ll arrive at Thanh Nien Road. Finally, turn right to reach the village. This route takes about an hour. Route #2: Cross the large Cua Dai bridge. Once you’ve crossed it, continue onto Duong 129/Duong Ven Bien. Stay on this road for 12 kilometers, then turn left onto Road 613, where you’ll continue for 1.5 kilometers until you reach Thanh Nien Road. Finally, turn right and drive 23 kilometers to the painted village. For most of the trip, taking Thanh Nien Road will take you through a much more local part of the region. The journey takes about an hour and a half.

DANANG A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.

Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?

Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?

What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.

The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.

HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.

WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.

For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.

Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.

Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).

WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.

For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).

At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.

WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.

THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.

MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.

CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.

To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!

Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.

Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.

Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).

When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.

Hi there, I’ll be in Thailand in February near Ban Wa Tabaek with a group (there are 8 of us). I’d like to spend 2 days in Ayutthaya. What’s the best way to get there? Do you have any recommendations for authentic accommodation in the area? Any other tips? What are the must-see spots to visit? Thanks so much for your help, Muryel

Hi there, we’re currently in Mai Chau and tomorrow we’re hitting the road back to Hanoi to head up toward Bac Ha and Sapa. We haven’t really had a set plan since we arrived—we’ve already done the Halong Bay on land and by sea. I’ve got 2 free days before heading to Bac Ha and Sapa. Any tips? Thanks, and looking forward to hearing from you.

What do you recommend visiting in Bangkok over 2 days during a cruise stop in January?

Hi there, So many things to see that I’m not sure what route to take for my two-week trip at the end of February. I initially thought about spending a few days in Chiang Mai and then heading down to Koh Samui and Koh Tao, but the travel time is long, and the flight from Chiang Mai to Koh Samui is really expensive. So, I’m looking for an alternative after Bangkok while keeping Koh Samui and Koh Tao. Maybe this itinerary, but I’d love your thoughts: Day 1-3: Bangkok (3 days) Day 4-5: Kanchanaburi (2 days) Day 6: Transit Bangkok → Koh Samui Day 7-9: Koh Samui (3 days) Day 10-12: Koh Tao (3 days) Day 13: Return to Bangkok

Hello, I’m heading to Thailand for two weeks at the end of February with my family. I went there 20 years ago. I’d love your thoughts on a relaxed two-week trip that lets me show my kids the joys of travel while also taking time to unwind (after all, it *is* vacation! :)) I’m planning to spend 2 days in Bangkok, then take the overnight train to Chiang Mai (so my kids can experience that) and stay for 2-3 nights. After that, I’ll fly to Phuket for a few nights, then head to Koh Lanta for a few days before returning to Phuket to make my way back to Bangkok for the last two days before departure. Tons of people travel for two weeks during this time—any recommendations? So far, I only have my round-trip flight ticket to Bangkok. Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

We have the opportunity to get away for a little two-week trip at the very beginning of January, just the two of us, without our kids. Because of the kids, we haven’t traveled much in Asia, so we’d love to take advantage of their absence to explore Thailand. Even though I’m used to planning our trips, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed this time.

We’d like to visit Bangkok and head south by renting a car (we have an international driver’s license, and my husband has driven on the left before). I’ve managed to sketch out a rough itinerary that might work for us, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.

To set the scene: we haven’t booked anything yet, we don’t like spending hours on the beach (though a little time at the end of the day is fine), we love walking and sightseeing, and what we enjoy most is being independent (so if we can avoid group tours, that’s ideal).

After that intro, here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 0: Paris-Bangkok flight Days 1, 2, and 3: Bangkok (Wat Pho, Grand Palace, Wat Arun, markets, boat ride through the khlongs, Jim Thompson House) Day 4: Ayutthaya Day 5: Pick up a rental car and head to Sam Roi Yot Day 6: Sam Roi Yot and Prachuap Khiri Khan Day 7: Drive south – overnight near Surat Thani Day 8: Uthayan Tham Khao Na Nai, then drive to Ao Nang (staying near Tubkaek) Days 9 and 10: Boat trips (Railay, Ko Hong, etc.) Day 11: Drive to Phang Nga with a few stops along the way Day 12: Boat tour (mangroves and Ko Tapu) Day 13: Drive to Phuket Airport and return flight

A few questions and doubts: - I’d considered Cheow Lan Lake but read some not-so-great reviews (crowds, just 3 viewpoints, and the rest was meh). What do you think? - Can we start from Ao Thalane Pier for trips to Ko Hong and Ko Tapu? - I’m not thrilled about driving through Bangkok, but I’m not sure where to rent a car west of the city (since we won’t return it to the same place, I assume it’s best to target rental companies at airports).

Thanks in advance for any tips or feedback you can share to help me (or not 😛) refine this plan before I start booking!