Discussions Puma2A took part in

Hello friends Imagine waking up before dawn to total silence, crisp cold air, and a sky so clear that the Milky Way feels close enough to touch. You take a deep breath, click your shoes into your pedals, and look down. Spreading out thousands of meters below you, bathed in the soft golden glow of the rising African sun, are the vast, endless plains of Tanzania. Then, you release your brakes. Riding Mount Kilimanjaro isn't a story of extreme danger or terrifying drops. It is a story of pure, unforgettable freedom . It is the feeling of accomplishment when you realize that you—on your own two wheels, supported by an incredible local crew—just tackled the highest free-standing mountain on Earth. Here is what the journey actually feels like:Day 1: Entering the Enchanted Jungle 🌿 Your ride begins at the gates of the rainforest. The air is warm and rich with the scent of damp earth and tropical leaves. You're spinning comfortably up winding singletrack under a dense green canopy. Blue monkeys chatter in the trees above, and every turn reveals moss-covered roots, gentle gully berms, and loamy dirt that grips your tires like glue. It feels like riding through a real-life fairytale forest.Day 2 & 3: Riding above the Clouds ☁️ As you break out of the jungle into the open heather and moorlands, the world completely opens up. Suddenly, you are pedaling above the cloud line. You look to your side and see vast white seas of clouds drifting below, with the jagged peak of Mount Meru poking through in the distance. The pace here is slow, steady, and deeply peaceful. Pole pole (slowly, slowly)—as the local Tanzanian guides warmly remind you. It's not a race; it's a rhythm. You pedal, take in the breathtaking vistas, share laughs with your support team at lunch stops, and watch the landscape shift from giant flowering lobelias to dramatic volcanic formations.Day 4: Touch the Roof of Africa 🌅 Reaching the high camps and the summit zone is a feeling that stays with you forever. Standing with your bike at the summit—or high up on the mountain's shoulder—is a moment of pure emotion. Standing on top of Africa with your trusty rig, looking out over the entire continent, is a memory that no race medal or weekend trail ride can ever match.The Descent: 3,800 Vertical Meters of Pure Bliss 🚀 And then comes the reward you worked for. Dropping down from the alpine desert back to the rainforest is hands-down the longest, most exhilarating continuous descent in Africa. You float over black volcanic dust, carve through open mountain ridges, and flow down smooth forest singletrack. With every kilometer dropped, warm air returns, your smile gets wider, and the arm pump feels like a badge of honor."Can I actually do this?" YES. You don't need to be a professional racer or a daredevil. If you enjoy long weekend rides, technical singletrack, and a good day in the mountains, this ride is within your reach. With proper acclimatization days, expert local guides carrying the heavy gear, and a relaxed, steady pace, it is an achievable, deeply rewarding journey. It's more than just a bike ride—it's an expedition of a lifetime that connects you with nature, local culture, and the pure passion of mountain biking.

After a first trip in 2009 (already!) where, roughly, we did a circuit passing through Hazyview, a private reserve in Sabi Sands, Santa Lucia and Isimangaliso, Hluhluwe and the South African part of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, then a quick stop in 2013 to go to Lesotho, we wanted to come back to this country.

Why not the Cape region this time, but there was no way we were coming back to this part of the world without going on a safari. Mountain Zebra or the Karoo seem more about landscapes than animals, and Addo doesn’t excite me much either... So it’ll be Kruger.

Flight prices, schedules, and durations led us to a Paris-Cape Town, return Johannesburg-Paris with British Airways, via Heathrow.

Now we just had to figure out how to fit in quite a few things without driving too many kilometers or changing accommodation every day, at least in the Cape region. Here’s what we ended up with:

Arrival in Cape Town on Saturday, October 10 at 11 AM

2 nights in Hermanus

1 night in Franschhoek

2 nights at Mountceder in the Cederberg

3 nights in Hout Bay

Sunday: transition day—flight to Johannesburg, drive toward Kruger, night in Lydenburg.

Kruger: 1 night in Letaba, 2 in Satara, 1 in Lower Sabie.

Last night in Mbombela (formerly Nelspruit) before heading back to the airport for an early evening return flight.

For those who want to read the full story without interruptions, it’s here.

Friday, 10/9

A pretty stressful departure.

First, I woke up in the middle of the night, convinced I’d swapped my first and last names during check-in 🤪... Couldn’t get back to sleep, even though I knew British Airways wouldn’t answer before 9 AM.

Well, for them, everything was fine... but then they started talking about ETA... an ETA for England 😮? ?? Yes, it’s recent. Apparently, you don’t need one for an air-to-air transit... but you never know, it’s better to have it just in case. No one could give me a clear answer that it wasn’t necessary. In the end, we didn’t get it... and we didn’t need it.

But here’s the thing: our flight ended up leaving Paris 45 minutes late (10 minutes due to a schedule change and 35 minutes of actual delay), so our 2-hour layover shrank to 1 hour and 15 minutes. That should be doable, right? The board showed our flight at Gate B: great, it’s right next door! But at Gate B, three employees were just there to tell everyone who showed up that security had to be done at Gate A... and off we went, sprinting through the corridors, endless escalators going up and down, a little shuttle ride, security at Gate A ("You’re going to be cutting it close!" Oh really? 😠), then pretty much the same route back, only to end up just a few dozen meters from where we started! 😠

Boarding was already well underway, and after all that running, we were hot and thirsty, but phew! We made it onto the plane!

Saturday, 10/10 On the other hand, nothing to complain about on this London-Cape Town flight—it arrived early!

I booked a (small) Suzuki S-Presso because it seemed to have a higher ground clearance than its competitors. Unfortunately, we ended up with a Tata Tiago (yes, it exists), which is lower (and also smaller, with an even more sluggish engine... yes, we were able to compare because in Johannesburg, we *did* get an S-Presso). Somehow, we managed to fit everything in the trunk ("Whatever you do, don’t leave anything visible!") and off we went to our first accommodation in Hermanus, under a glorious sun.

Nikki welcomed us warmly, explained what there was to see in the area, and advised us to book a restaurant for that evening.

After dropping off our bags, we headed to the "cliff path," just 3 minutes from our place. This part of the coast is famous for its southern right whales from June to November. Let’s cut to the chase: there *were* whales, but they were very far away and very sleepy 😕. At best, we saw (photos taken at 600mm): A few ripples or a faint spray,



a bit of tail...



...or a bit of head.



Too bad—the owner of our next accommodation told us she’d seen around thirty of them up close here in early September.

With no whales in sight, the dassies (or rock hyraxes) were everywhere... and fun to watch.

The other local star (when there are no whales 😏)

Hi everyone who knows New Zealand well, I’ve got two weeks to plan in New Zealand this coming December. Arriving and departing from Auckland. I’m struggling a bit because I can’t decide between the North Island and the South Island. I’ll be renting a car and I’d love to find a nice road trip with beautiful landscapes, hikes, and places that aren’t too touristy. If I choose the South Island, I was thinking of taking a flight from Auckland to Christchurch and renting a car from CHC. I know I’m asking a lot, but to those of you who know New Zealand well, I’d really appreciate your help in making this long-time dream come true. Thanks in advance. JP

Hello,

To read:

📋 Yes, travel insurance is now mandatory in the ETA application. Since October 6, 2026, the official Kenyan ETA portal directly includes a step to subscribe to mandatory government travel insurance for travelers required to obtain an ETA, even if you already have your own medical and repatriation insurance. This insurance adds an official extra cost of $44 plus payment fees of $8, totaling $52 on top of the ETA. The ETA application cannot be completed without paying for this insurance on the portal.

In the end, Kenya followed the Tanzanian "model".....!!

One more piece of good news.... Regards.

Puma2A

Hi everyone!

A quick travel journal entry to tell you about the Pont de Gau Ornithological Park, near Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue (13).

A real paradise for flamingos... but also for swarms of mosquitoes that attack in squadrons, without warning and dive-bombing! 🦟😄

And I thought these critters didn’t go for spoiled meat! Clearly, they’re not too picky about freshness! 😵

More seriously, it’s a really nice spot for photography and nature lovers. Kids love it too! If you’re in the area, it’s a great discovery to make.

Here are a few shots from my session yesterday at the end of the day.

675 photos on the counter, currently sorting through them... Still testing the camera body. If I keep about twenty, that’ll already be a win!

Anyway, there’s work to do... and some itching on top of that! 📸🦟😄

I'M PLANNING TO GO TO CORSICA IN 2027, EITHER IN JUNE OR MAYBE SEPTEMBER (haven't decided yet). I'd like to know which is the most cost-effective way to get there from La Rochelle: by plane or by boat? Once there, I'd rent a basic car (though I don’t know which agency yet). I plan to do the 10-day *Mare a Mare* hike.

Hi there! I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker. Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore? I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky... Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination! Laurence

Here you can post off-topic photos, chat, have fun, ask questions, talk tech... Hope you'll like this theme! 🙂

The contest is here

I’m reporting to VF that my message count dropped from around 5,160 to 5,090 over the last three days.

Is there now an issue with the message count, an unintended disappearance, or some kind of pruning?

I’m asking because I haven’t received any info about this.

hi to recent travelers in South Africa, I’ve heard there’s a document you need to present when you arrive. Can you help me out? THANKS

Hello fellow travelers,

I’m starting to plan a trip to Tanzania + Zanzibar in August 2027 for 2 to 3 weeks with my partner.

I’ve never been there before and I’d love some advice, especially for Tanzania where we’re planning to do several safaris in the North.

Specifically:

Do you recommend using a travel agency to organize the trip, or are guidebooks and internet recommendations enough? If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one? Would you recommend hiring a guide for the entire stay in Tanzania, or is it better to travel independently except in the parks where I’ve read that guides are mandatory? If you’ve used a local agency (rather than one in France), which one and at what price? Have you had any bad surprises (hidden fees, inexperienced guide, poor vehicle condition)?

Looking forward to reading your tips! 🙂 Thanks in advance

Hi there, I’m looking for a French-speaking agency that organizes safaris in Tanzania.

Any recommendations?

I’ve been in touch with Asanterra, but I haven’t found any reviews about this company.

Cheers,

Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter. Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years. It’s become the island of taxes. It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore. I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$). Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family. Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal. But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this! For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one! I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!

We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!

Hello everyone on this forum! I know in advance that what I'm about to say here won't please everyone, but honesty is a virtue, isn't it? Here's the thing: for many years now, I've noticed a habit in French-speaking posts of using abbreviations left and right, as if to show that we're "in the know." Let me explain with a few examples: - - In discussions about Peru, I see "Aguas" for "Aguas Calientes." And if it's Mexico, well, it'll be "Aguas" for "Aguascalientes"! - - For Guatemala, "travelers" will say "Guaté." Come on, saying "Guatemalas" would maybe be the undeniable sign that you know nothing about the country??? - - Back from Indonesia, many will talk about how familiar they've become with the country's language: "bahasa." Of course, everyone will know what you're talking about, but it still gets on my nerves because the language (one of the many languages) of Indonesia is "bahasa Indonesia." "Bahasa" actually means "language," and you'll find this word of Indian origin ‘Bhāṣā’ (it's Sanskrit originally) outside Indonesia too: in Thailand, for example, any language will be "phasa" as in "phasa thai" (official Thai), "phasa isan" (what's spoken in northeastern Thailand), "phasa angkrit" = English, etc. Am I an incorrigible nitpicker? Maybe. But I'd also find it ridiculous if a foreigner came and told me they visited "Monte" during their trip to France, when it was actually Monte Carlo. I read a lot in English and don't think I've encountered such a habit among English speakers.

I hesitated about writing this travel journal... This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.

No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...

But don’t think we were disappointed! The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together. So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.

Our 2-week itinerary: - Arusha (1 night upon arrival) - Tarangire (1 night) - Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo) - Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera) - Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night) - Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights) - Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)

Hakuna matata!

hi everyone! are there other cruise formats besides the coastal express to see the northern lights in Norway in winter?

April 11 – Day 1

It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather, A season that only exists in the southwest of America, I remember very well what I told you that morning A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago... We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...

Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!



To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"



As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...

Hi everyone, We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead. I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different. I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari? For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous… We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious? Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering? Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!