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Mapungubwe
Continuing the journey!
Waterberg to Mapungubwe.
The roads in this area aren’t great. I should’ve taken the N1 and gone via Musina... A massive storm on the road... 60 km away, hazard lights on...
Mapungubwe isn’t new to me, but I’d decided to try the western part, at Limpopo Tented Camp.
Upon arrival... “Sorry, a tree fell on one of the chalets...” “We’ll put you up for the first night at Leokwe, in the eastern part.” From what they said, it happened yesterday... but on-site, we saw it had actually been several months!
Sanparks’ management is still very much “outside usual standards.” There’s constantly work being done “haphazardly,” shoddily, poorly... And the welcome from staff really depends on the person and the day.
Oh well, no big deal—we’ll spend a night at Leokwe!
The eastern part “normally” doesn’t have lions... there are several spots where you can get out of the car... We saw general game, buffaloes, elephants... leopards (yes, see another travel journal), and now possibly cheetahs in the far eastern section. Our friend Montagnard had asked me (following another discussion) if I knew any truly ethical associations... I’d pointed him to a cheetah conservation group. I can confirm—they’re the ones who released several cheetahs into this part of Mapungubwe. Leokwe is stunning, unfenced... with a pretty high chance of seeing elephants in the camp, drinking from the pool or brushing past the chalet terraces. This area is still a fantastic spot for spectacular wildlife sightings and insane landscapes!










Waterberg to Mapungubwe.
The roads in this area aren’t great. I should’ve taken the N1 and gone via Musina... A massive storm on the road... 60 km away, hazard lights on...
Mapungubwe isn’t new to me, but I’d decided to try the western part, at Limpopo Tented Camp.
Upon arrival... “Sorry, a tree fell on one of the chalets...” “We’ll put you up for the first night at Leokwe, in the eastern part.” From what they said, it happened yesterday... but on-site, we saw it had actually been several months!
Sanparks’ management is still very much “outside usual standards.” There’s constantly work being done “haphazardly,” shoddily, poorly... And the welcome from staff really depends on the person and the day.
Oh well, no big deal—we’ll spend a night at Leokwe!
The eastern part “normally” doesn’t have lions... there are several spots where you can get out of the car... We saw general game, buffaloes, elephants... leopards (yes, see another travel journal), and now possibly cheetahs in the far eastern section. Our friend Montagnard had asked me (following another discussion) if I knew any truly ethical associations... I’d pointed him to a cheetah conservation group. I can confirm—they’re the ones who released several cheetahs into this part of Mapungubwe. Leokwe is stunning, unfenced... with a pretty high chance of seeing elephants in the camp, drinking from the pool or brushing past the chalet terraces. This area is still a fantastic spot for spectacular wildlife sightings and insane landscapes!










The Waterberg
Last year, I stumbled upon a "nature reserve" in the Waterberg by sheer luck.
Just one night, but I was so thrilled that I went back this year for three nights.
It was perfect for breaking up the trip between Marakele and Mapungubwe.
The Waterberg is the Limpopo of game farms, hunting farms... and places trying to attract clients from Joburg and Kruger, with varying levels of ethics.
The roads aren’t always great, potholes are everywhere, and Google Maps is pretty unreliable.
But in my case, I found exactly what I was looking for...
As often happens, old farms have been grouped together to create a nature reserve that doesn’t sell you "wild" lions, has no rhinos (protecting rhinos is complicated), no elephants, and no buffalo. So, antelopes, elusive leopards, hyenas (didn’t see any), peaceful giraffes, warthogs, etc.—just general game! What’s the point? Well, you go for walks or hikes with game drives... you bike... you chill. You get out of the car. For us this year, a gorgeous "house," fully equipped, on the edge of the forest, with wood for the fire and a plain as the view... An unbeatable quality-to-price ratio in a natural setting! A little photo dump for the vibe. You’ve gathered that part of the exploration is by car (it’s big) and part on foot...










As often happens, old farms have been grouped together to create a nature reserve that doesn’t sell you "wild" lions, has no rhinos (protecting rhinos is complicated), no elephants, and no buffalo. So, antelopes, elusive leopards, hyenas (didn’t see any), peaceful giraffes, warthogs, etc.—just general game! What’s the point? Well, you go for walks or hikes with game drives... you bike... you chill. You get out of the car. For us this year, a gorgeous "house," fully equipped, on the edge of the forest, with wood for the fire and a plain as the view... An unbeatable quality-to-price ratio in a natural setting! A little photo dump for the vibe. You’ve gathered that part of the exploration is by car (it’s big) and part on foot...










Quick feedback on Marakele NP
Hi there,
My month in South Africa went really well. The itinerary revisits some places I’ve already seen—even a few times over...
Joburg – Marakele – Waterberg – Mapungubwe – Northern Kruger – Panorama Route – Southern Kruger – Eswatini (Hlane) – Maputaland (Sodwana Bay) – St Lucia – Joburg via Richards Bay.
I’ll skip some spots and focus on others.
Today’s topic: Marakele.
Back in 2009, I spent a day there, and since then... I’ve tried several times to go back.
The park isn’t very big—nowhere near as lush as Kruger—but it has a lot going for it. Even back then, there was a split between the western section, where you wouldn’t find any “dangerous” animals like elephants or buffalo (though rhinos were around), and the eastern section, the Big Five zone. Nowadays, the western part is open to mountain biking, and the campsite is completely unfenced, which pretty much confirms that the big animals aren’t there—no rhinos either (I didn’t see a single dung pile). The western section didn’t seem all that interesting to me... with vervet monkeys everywhere in the campsite. In the eastern part, there’s the Topli tented camp, right by a dam. It’s small but charming, with a great view and a loosely fenced perimeter (there are now lions and wild dogs in this area). No facilities—no restaurant, no pool (except at the campsite), no shop, no fuel, nothing...
View from the “chalet” terrace... nice and relaxed...

So, a terrace with a view for the lucky ones...

Bedroom and bathroom, separate and equipped kitchen. It can get windy. It must be cold in winter... but it’s hot this October.
Some lovely little roads... though some sections are 4x4-friendly.



A viewpoint at the top—you’re supposed to see the vulture colony from there... still haven’t seen it, as far as I’m concerned.

The animals?
My month in South Africa went really well. The itinerary revisits some places I’ve already seen—even a few times over...
Joburg – Marakele – Waterberg – Mapungubwe – Northern Kruger – Panorama Route – Southern Kruger – Eswatini (Hlane) – Maputaland (Sodwana Bay) – St Lucia – Joburg via Richards Bay.
I’ll skip some spots and focus on others.
Today’s topic: Marakele.
Back in 2009, I spent a day there, and since then... I’ve tried several times to go back.
The park isn’t very big—nowhere near as lush as Kruger—but it has a lot going for it. Even back then, there was a split between the western section, where you wouldn’t find any “dangerous” animals like elephants or buffalo (though rhinos were around), and the eastern section, the Big Five zone. Nowadays, the western part is open to mountain biking, and the campsite is completely unfenced, which pretty much confirms that the big animals aren’t there—no rhinos either (I didn’t see a single dung pile). The western section didn’t seem all that interesting to me... with vervet monkeys everywhere in the campsite. In the eastern part, there’s the Topli tented camp, right by a dam. It’s small but charming, with a great view and a loosely fenced perimeter (there are now lions and wild dogs in this area). No facilities—no restaurant, no pool (except at the campsite), no shop, no fuel, nothing...
View from the “chalet” terrace... nice and relaxed...


So, a terrace with a view for the lucky ones...

Bedroom and bathroom, separate and equipped kitchen. It can get windy. It must be cold in winter... but it’s hot this October.
Some lovely little roads... though some sections are 4x4-friendly.



A viewpoint at the top—you’re supposed to see the vulture colony from there... still haven’t seen it, as far as I’m concerned.

The animals?
Your recommendations for the Eastern Cape
Hello,
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
Administrative Procedures for South Africa
Hi, could someone tell me about the administrative procedures and required vaccines for traveling to South Africa?
Thanks
Cape Town to KTP Route
Hi there,
We're considering the following route:
- Cape Town
- West Coast National Park
- Lambert's Bay
- Springbok
- Upington
- KTP
That’s about 1,250 km in total.
We’ve already visited the West Coast National Park.
Is covering such a distance to reach KTP (the main goal of our trip) really worth it—does it offer enough to justify the detour?
Thanks for your input!
Questions about the route between Kosy Bay and Kruger
Hi there. We’ll be in South Africa at the end of February ’26 with a rental car—not a 4x4.
What’s the best route between Kosy Bay and the southern part of Kruger Park?
Is the Mozambique route via Maputo a good option?
What are the formalities for crossing into Mozambique?
Is the Kosy Bay area worth a detour?
We’ll be entering Kruger from the south for 4 days. Any recommendations for routes/campsites? Lower Sabie, Satara?
Do we really need to book accommodations in Kruger in February? And what about safaris?
Thanks for your input!
Franz
Accommodation in Camp's Bay and nearby
Hi,
I’m looking for a safe place to stay in Camp’s Bay or the surrounding area—do you have any recommendations?
The guest house in Camp Bay we used to go to no longer exists.
Thanks for your help!
4-Week Itinerary in South Africa
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Is there a need for medications for clinics in South Africa?
Hi,
We’re leaving for South Africa soon (on 10/9) and I was wondering if there’s a need for things like paracetamol, since we can bring some! And if so, how should we go about it—can we drop them off at a private lodge, in Kruger, in Cape Town...?
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share—quickly, since we’re leaving soon! 😉
Back from a 3-week trip to South Africa and Mozambique
Hi everyone,
We’ve just returned from a 3-week trip to South Africa:
2 weeks in Kruger Park, Manyeleti, and White River
5 days in Vilankulo
1 day in Johannesburg
If you have any questions or are planning your trip, don’t hesitate! 🙂
What's the best option: local SIM card or international plan?
Hi there,
A question for those who’ve looked into this.
What’s more advantageous or preferable: buying a local SIM card for GPS and SMS (we’ll handle calls via WhatsApp), or going with a plan from our mobile provider (Orange) that offers international packages with several options up to 150GB?
Does anyone know the price of SIM cards at Vodacom?
Thanks to anyone who chimes in! 😉
Dan
Thanks to anyone who chimes in! 😉
Dan
Car insurance for 6 months in Southern Africa
Help,
We're looking for insurance for our vehicle that we're taking to Southern Africa for our 6-month trip. Thanks for your help.
We're looking for insurance for our vehicle that we're taking to Southern Africa for our 6-month trip. Thanks for your help.
Aggressive hyenas at Cape Vidal!
Hi,
Not sure if this is the right section, but just wanted to warn future travelers...
Where’s Cape Vidal? It’s in iSimangaliso, an independent park in KZN Wildlife, stunning and just a stone’s throw from St Lucia (KwaZulu-Natal, Maputaland). It’s the beach spot at the end of the Eastern Shores road. You can swim, fish... but watch out for waves, currents, and sharks... There’s a really nice game drive where you can get out of your car at certain points, especially at Cape Vidal. That’s where the camp with bungalows and campsites is. The vervets and samango monkeys (endemic to the area, and the males are pretty big) can be a bit of a nuisance if you’re trying to braai... They’re super persistent and not shy at all—don’t let them intimidate you, and stay alert because their speed at snatching food is impressive. Anyway... I’m reporting two recent attacks by these hyenas... who were *not* in a playful mood... The first one happened at night—a hyena tried to bite a camper’s nose off in their tent... and succeeded. The other night, a camper returning to their tent in the early hours was violently attacked by two hyenas... and they had a close call! So, if you’re camping there, be careful... Measures are being taken, but for now, it’s a bit risky.
Not sure if this is the right section, but just wanted to warn future travelers...
Where’s Cape Vidal? It’s in iSimangaliso, an independent park in KZN Wildlife, stunning and just a stone’s throw from St Lucia (KwaZulu-Natal, Maputaland). It’s the beach spot at the end of the Eastern Shores road. You can swim, fish... but watch out for waves, currents, and sharks... There’s a really nice game drive where you can get out of your car at certain points, especially at Cape Vidal. That’s where the camp with bungalows and campsites is. The vervets and samango monkeys (endemic to the area, and the males are pretty big) can be a bit of a nuisance if you’re trying to braai... They’re super persistent and not shy at all—don’t let them intimidate you, and stay alert because their speed at snatching food is impressive. Anyway... I’m reporting two recent attacks by these hyenas... who were *not* in a playful mood... The first one happened at night—a hyena tried to bite a camper’s nose off in their tent... and succeeded. The other night, a camper returning to their tent in the early hours was violently attacked by two hyenas... and they had a close call! So, if you’re camping there, be careful... Measures are being taken, but for now, it’s a bit risky.
Connection Time at JNB Airport
Hi there,
I’m heading to Kruger Park for 4 days in May 2026.
Departing from Paris → Skukuza via JNB on Air France.
Here’s what’s worrying me: my flight lands (in theory) at JNB at 8:30 AM (Terminal A), then I’ve got a JNB → Skukuza departure at 10:05 AM (Terminal B).
That leaves me with 1 hour and 35 minutes to make the connection and clear customs.
I don’t have any checked luggage—just carry-on. I called Air France, and they said it’s doable (in theory) with a minimum connection time of 1 hour 30 minutes (which is why they sold the ticket), but I’ll need to move quickly.
From your experience, is this realistic in practice?
Can I ask customs officers to let me through as a priority? (I’ve got my flight ticket to show.)
Thanks for your insights!
Serge
Where to rent a small car in Cape Town? Your agency recommendations
Hi there,
It’s quite urgent—we land in Cape Town on September 26th and need to rent a small car for 6 weeks. The reviews we’re reading for just about any agency are terrible. So I’m really hoping you can share your experiences to help us make the least bad choice. I’m counting on you to help with this super tough decision!
Tollebp
It’s quite urgent—we land in Cape Town on September 26th and need to rent a small car for 6 weeks. The reviews we’re reading for just about any agency are terrible. So I’m really hoping you can share your experiences to help us make the least bad choice. I’m counting on you to help with this super tough decision!
Tollebp
Marloth Park: What transportation options are there inside the park (without a vehicle)?
Hi there, we’ll be staying in Marloth Park in February 2026. We’re booking local providers for safaris and excursions, but we don’t want to rent a car (airport shuttle, safety concerns, driving on the left). We’d love to get around by bike or another way inside the park (we have young kids). What solutions would you recommend? We’ll be at Jabula Hotel, about 6 km from the bike rental shop—is there another option? Inside the park, there’s no vehicle rental available.
Birth certificates and authorizations: Are translations necessary for traveling with grandchildren?
we’re taking our grandkids in early 2026 (14 and 10 years old) without their parents. Do we really need to have birth certificates and other forms translated by a sworn translator?
Trip report: Our South Africa journey in July
Hi there,
We’re back from our 3-week trip to South Africa in July. It was a family trip with our four grown-up kids (ages 18 to 25).
First off, I’d like to thank everyone on this forum for their great tips—they really helped us plan this trip!
The trip: We spent 15 days between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, then a week around Kruger (including Blyde River Canyon). We found South Africans to be welcoming and always ready to help. We never felt unsafe (just followed basic safety rules). The police are very visible, especially on the roads.
Logistics: We’d booked our accommodations in advance but made a few changes on the spot based on how we felt at the time. We rented two vehicles from Firefly (Hertz). No complaints—recent cars, quick returns, and the deposit wasn’t charged. We’d gotten our international driver’s permits... which stayed in France! Luckily, no one asked for them. Driving on the left wasn’t an issue (it wasn’t our first time). The roads we took were in good, even great, condition. Only a few tracks to lodges or parks were rough and required extra caution. Lots of pedestrians on the sides of roads, even highways. And plenty of very slow trucks. But they pull over to let you pass. It’s also common for cars to cross into the opposite lane to overtake, even with white lines. We took two domestic flights: one early in the morning (Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth) and one in the late afternoon (Cape Town to Johannesburg) to save time.
We had some highlights and a few disappointments—all part of the journey! More details coming soon.

We’re back from our 3-week trip to South Africa in July. It was a family trip with our four grown-up kids (ages 18 to 25).
First off, I’d like to thank everyone on this forum for their great tips—they really helped us plan this trip!
The trip: We spent 15 days between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, then a week around Kruger (including Blyde River Canyon). We found South Africans to be welcoming and always ready to help. We never felt unsafe (just followed basic safety rules). The police are very visible, especially on the roads.
Logistics: We’d booked our accommodations in advance but made a few changes on the spot based on how we felt at the time. We rented two vehicles from Firefly (Hertz). No complaints—recent cars, quick returns, and the deposit wasn’t charged. We’d gotten our international driver’s permits... which stayed in France! Luckily, no one asked for them. Driving on the left wasn’t an issue (it wasn’t our first time). The roads we took were in good, even great, condition. Only a few tracks to lodges or parks were rough and required extra caution. Lots of pedestrians on the sides of roads, even highways. And plenty of very slow trucks. But they pull over to let you pass. It’s also common for cars to cross into the opposite lane to overtake, even with white lines. We took two domestic flights: one early in the morning (Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth) and one in the late afternoon (Cape Town to Johannesburg) to save time.
We had some highlights and a few disappointments—all part of the journey! More details coming soon.

Are cooking facilities provided in the bungalows at Kruger Park?
It seems that cooking equipment and utensils aren’t provided in the bungalows at the rest camps in Kruger Park 🤪
We’ve booked bungalows at Shingwedzi, Olifants, Mopani, and Satara.
What cooking equipment is provided for preparing meals? Is it better to bring our own gear?
Thanks so much for your feedback!😎








