Mon mari et moi même partons en Namibie fin juin - début juillet 2017 pour un autotour de 15 jours .
Nous avons loué le véhicule ( un SUV 2X4 ) et les hébergements par l'intermédiaire de Tourmaline .
J'avais établi le circuit en gros à l'avance et j'ai modifié quelques une de leurs propositions d'hébergements en fonction de tout ce que j'ai pu lire sur ce forum . Une vraie mine d'or . Merci à tous!
Je ne souhaite pas ouvrir le débat sur le sens du circuit . Nous le faisons dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre et cela ne nous pose pas de problème. Nous avions déjà fait le sud et Etosha en 2008 avec un petit groupe et là nous nous lançons seuls et avons choisi de privilégier le nord.
Voici notre circuit :
1 arrivée à Windhoek le 26 juin ( Qarar airways 683 euros A/R ) Surricate town lodge tenu par des suisses
2 Mount Etjo Safari Lodge . Déjà plus de place à Okonjima ! Pour ceux qui connaissent avez vous un avis sur les éventuels activités à réserver sur place?
3 route vers Etosha . Nuit à Tree top camp sur la réserve Onguma .
4 Etosha . Nuit à Halali camp
5 Etosha . Nuit à Okaukuejo camp en chambre standart
6 Etosha . Nuit à Dolomite camp ( chalet 12 avec vue sur le point d'eau m'a dit Charlotte de Tourmaline)
7 Route vers Epupa falls . Je m'inquiète sur la distance et le fait d'avoir assez d'essence entre Opuwo - Epupa - et Opuwo au retour . Ya t il une station service entre Opuwo et Epupa . Sur la carte Freytag , il y en a une de notée mais je n'en ai vu mention nulle part ailleurs. Nuit Epupa camp .
8 Epupa Falls .Nuit Epupa camp
9 Route de transition . Nuit à Opuwo country lodge .
10 Route vers Grootberg . Nuit au Grootberg Lodge
11 Grootberg lodge . Elephants du desert ou Rhinos ? Pas possible de faire les 2 .
12 Route vers le Brandberg via Twylfontein . Nuit au Brandberg White Lady lodge .
13 Route vers Erongo Wilderness lodge dont l'hébergement inclut une marche guidée . Il n'y avait plus de place à Amieb ranch que nous aurions préféré.
14 Retour vers Windhoek . Nuit au Surricate town lodge .
15 Départ hélas .
Je suis désolée si ce mail parait très long mais j'ai besoin de vos avis et conseils sur les lodges ( même s'ils sont déjà réservés ) et surtout sur les points d'interêt qui méritent un détour ( par exemple peut on faire un détour pour aller au Spitzkopp entre WL lodge et Erongo?) et les activités à faire ( et où les faire?) .
2 Mount Etjo Safari Lodge. Déjà plus de place à Okonjima ! Pour ceux qui connaissent avez vous un avis sur les éventuels activités à réserver sur place?
ça je connais on y était 3 jours en avril. C'est un très bel endroit avec un bonne ambiance, pas trop guindée et où les blancs et les noirs travaillent très bien ensemble. On y mange très bien.
Ils ont un game drive sympa sans être exceptionnel.
Ce qui est en revanche vraiment très bien et que je conseille c'est le rhino track.
C'est le matin, après une approche en 4x4 avec un guide pour partirez à pieds pour suivre les traces des rhinos. Normalement vous en verrez (nous en avons vu 11 en tout) ... et vous les verrez de très près (genre 25 mètres).
Bref très bon choix.
Nuit à Tree top camp sur la réserve Onguma.
nous étions à Onguma Bush Camp, bien. Nous y avons fait un night drive. Bon c'est cher pour ne pas voir grand chose.
Là c'est déjà plus "guindé" avec les noirs au service.
4 Etosha. Nuit à Halali camp
chouette camp, bonne ambiance et très beau point de vue sur le waterhole, un peu à l'écart. Pas d'activités spécifiques, vous verrez tout par vous-même.
5 Etosha. Nuit à Okaukuejo camp en chambre standard
Waterhole magique, nous y avons à chaque fois vu des rhinos et de nombreuses autres espèces. Grand camp, un peu usine. Pas d'activités spécifiques à prévoir
6 Etosha. Nuit à Dolomite camp (chalet 12 avec vue sur le point d'eau m'a dit Charlotte de Tourmaline)
si Charlotte le dit ... avec des jumelles alors. Le point d'eau est très loin comparativement à Okaukuejo et Halali. L'endroit est magnifique pour le reste il faut aimer le côté "on en fait trop" et guindé. J'ai entendu qu'ils ont maintenant pas mal de problèmes avec les bambouins qui deviennent agressifs.
7 Route vers Epupa falls. Je m'inquiète sur la distance et le fait d'avoir assez d'essence entre Opuwo - Epupa - et Opuwo au retour. Ya t il une station service entre Opuwo et Epupa. Sur la carte Freytag, il y en a une de notée mais je n'en ai vu mention nulle part ailleurs. Nuit Epupa camp.
comme en général les véhicules ont des doubles réservoirs en Afrique Australe, point d'inquiétude à avoir pour l'essence.
Epupa c'est magnifique. Niveau activité, vous pourrez visiter un village Himbas à partir d'Epupa, il y a une guide qui gère ça.
10 Route vers Grootberg. Nuit au Grootberg Lodge
11 Grootberg lodge. Elephants du desert ou Rhinos ? Pas possible de faire les 2.
Très très beau lodge. On avait vraiment aimé le sundowner, les paysages y sont si beau au coucher de soleil et je ne parle pas des animaux ..
Pour le rhino track voir sur place car ils peuvent être vraiment loin et vous les aurez normalement déjà vu à Mount Etjo.
Elephants track, pourquoi pas, pareil s'ils ne sont pas trop loin.
12 Route vers le Brandberg via Twylfontein. Nuit au Brandberg White Lady lodge
site très beau, mais c'est l'endroit où on mange le plus mal de toute la Namibie ... mais on s'en remet 😉. Là ce serait le bon endroit pour un éléphant track. Remonter la rivière est sympa et difficile à faire soi-même donc autant en profiter.
13 Route vers Erongo Wilderness lodge dont l'hébergement inclut une marche guidée. Il n'y avait plus de place à Amieb ranch que nous aurions préféré.
Ameib Ranch aurait été effectivement bien. Mais Erongo offre de bien belles balades, chouette endroit pour finir votre séjour 🙂
Je ne ferais pas de crochet au Spitzkoppe, il y a déjà bien assez de choses à voir là où vous serez et être plus tôt à Erongo permet de se promener.
Spitzkoppe est aussi mieux pour le soir ou le matin plutôt qu'en journée, niveau lumière
Voilà un bien beau voyage qui se présente
profitez en bien 😛
Je vous remercie de votre réponse . A Epupa nous avons effectivement prévu la visite d'un village Himba , malgré quelques craintes sur le côté mercantile de l'affaire mais je crois qu'on ne peut y échapper.
Concernant les activités , nous avons encore le temps de réfléchir . Je ne sais pas si nous aurons le temps pour le Rhino track au Mount Etjo car nous n'y passons qu'une nuit et nous devrons sans doute partir de bonne heure , l'étape suivante étant assez longue vers Etosha ( + arrets course , ATM , essence , photos ....) . A réfléchir.
Pour Dolomite camp , compte tenu de ce que j'ai pu lire , je ne me fais pas trop d'illusions mais çà fait une étape sympa en direction d'Epupa .
Encore merci. De long mois à attendre mais aussi à préparer pour rêver et j'adore çà .
Pour Mount Etjo c'est dommage, c'est là où vous avez le plus de chance de voir des rhinos.
Normalement vous avez 4h30 de route jusqu'à Onguma et vous retrerez du rhinos track vers 10h30 - 11h, donc ça me parait jouable.
Sinon à quelle heure vous arrivez à Windhoek ?,
car Mount Etjo n'est pas loin, joignable dès le jour 1 si vous arrivez le matin comme lorsque nous venons de Frankfurt.
Nous arriverons à Windhoek vers 10h . Nous avons préféré prendre notre temps pour faire les courses , retirer de l'argent et passer une bonne nuit.
Je vais demander par mail au Mount Etjo à quelle heure démarre exactement le rhino track ( sur leur site , ils indiquent 6h pour une durée de 3h ) . Pour un retour jusqu'à 10h , çà me parait jouable.
Dolomite est déjà réservé . Je ne suis pas sure que nous puissions changer .
Très bonne soirée.
Pilar
rhino track (sur leur site, ils indiquent 6h pour une durée de 3h). Pour un retour jusqu'à 10h, çà me parait jouable
oui tout à fait. Après ça dépend si vous trouvez vite les rhinos, nous nous avions du temps comme on y passait la journée, du coup on a flâner en rentrant.
De toute façon ils sont très souples, si tu dis que tu veux rentrer plus tôt pas de problème. De plus comme ils ne prennent pas plus de 3 ou 4 personnes à la fois pour le rhinos track vous serez certainement seuls 🙂
Oui si vous arrivez à 10h au mieux vous auriez pu partir à 15h.
Cela vous aurait fait arriver à Mount Etjo vers 17h30.
Pour Dolomite, l'endroit est beau donc pas de regrets 😉
Bonjour Pilar,
Nous n'avons pas du tout aimé Dolomite ( oct 2015), mauvais souvenir. Mauvais accueil, personnel désagréable, mauvais repas ( beurre rance etc...), fermetures éclairs cassées dans notre châlet, impossible de fermer, 15° la nuit- ah oui, mais les vêtements chauds sont dans la voiture qui est restée en bas sur le parking, pas le courage de demander une voiturette électrique pour nous y conduire... Une horreur.
Alternatives (pour le cas où...) : Hobatere Lodge, super, juste avant Galton Gate, ou bien sa version camping ( Etosha Roadside).
Quelques infos sur Epupa et le trajet vers Epupa :
A Epupa, nous avons logé à Omarunga camp ( châlets et campsites au bord de la rivière, tres agreables). Activites possibles via le Lodge, comme la balade pour voir les crocos ou la visite de villages Himbas. Essayez de demander Tom comme guide, il est du coin et connaît bien les Himbas...
Apres, on peut aussi se balader tout seul à pied en suivant la rivière. Les chutes sont superbes. Il y a des Himbas vivant juste à côté du Camp.
D'Opuwo à Epupa, environ 4h de route.
D'Epupa à Galton Gate, nous avions mis 6h ( incluant pique nique).
Nous avions fait le plein à Opuwo à l'aller et au retour. Pas souvenir de station essence là haut.
Attention :
Au retour, la barrière sanitaire se trouve juste avant Galton Gate, donc ne pas acheter de viande à Opuwo ( ni charcuterie) car ils vont tout vous piquer. Ou alors, vous cachez dans les valises...
Pour la fin de votre circuit : vous pouvez aussi loger à Düsternbrook Guest Farm, qui est à 30 min au nord de Windhoek. Ambiance rustique et familiale, table d'hôtes (repas délicieux) avec le proprio et sa fille , là aussi des activites intéressantes. En réservant DBB, nous avions 1 activites offerte. Nous y avons passé une nuit cette année en arrivant, excellent choix.
Sauf si tout est déjà verrouillé...
Bonne suite de préparation,
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
Je vous remercie de tous vos conseils et précisions.
Pour Dolomite camp ( qui est réservé ), je me fais une raison et me dit que la qualité de l'environnement compensera le reste . Nous avons choisi quelques jolis lodges qui devraient équilibrer l'ensemble.
Je prends note du nom de votre guide à Epupa , de la necessité de faire le plein à Opuwo à l'aller et au retour.
Très bonne soirée.
Nous avons passé 2 nuits et 3 jours autour de Dolomite Camp. Le personnel est en effet un peu laxiste, pas plus qu'ailleurs dans les parcs nationaux, mais tout de même assez sympa, cependant, le site est superbe, même si le plan d'eau est très très éloigné du Lodge. Les game-drive sont agréables sauf que les chauffeurs pensent que les touristes ne sont intéressés que par les lions, les éléphants ou les rhinocéros (c'est très très dommage, mais c'est ainsi presque partout en Afrique). C'est notre meilleur souvenir d'Etosha où nous sommes allés plusieurs fois depuis un bon nombre d'années. Il y aurait, mais cela reste à prouver, moins de faune, mais ce qui est certain est que les touristes y sont moins nombreux. Pour avoir, en octobre 2014, traversé le parc l'Ouest en Est, c'est à Renostervlei, près de Dolomite Camp que nous avons vu le plus d'animaux ( 40 ou 50 éléphants, 2 rhinos, des lions, des chacals, des oiseaux et une multitude d'herbivores). Il n'y a pas de règle dans un parc, au même endroit, certains sont émerveillés tandis que d'autres ne voient rien à quelques heures de différence, il faut se laisser aller tranquillement, ouvrir l’œil et avoir un peu de chance.
On peut trouver un bidon d'essence à Epupa Falls auprès des habitants mais ne pas trop compter dessus. Je me souviens d'avoir vu un panneau indiquant carburant sur la piste entre Epupa et Opuwo, mais n'en ayant pas besoin, je n'ai pas noté l'endroit. De toute manière, en faisant le plein à Opuwo, on peut monter vers le Kunene et en revenir (peut-être est-il préférable d'avoir un jerrycan de secours, le demander au loueur ou en acheter un), car sur place, on ne circule pas beaucoup, à moins de séjourner longtemps ou de repartir vers Kunene River Lodge et Ruacana, ce qui est une autre histoire !
Pour les Himbas, une rencontre fortuite vaut tous les guides ou visites organisées du monde, c'est là aussi une question de chance !
Je vous remercie de votre réponse . Comme je le disais dans un post précédent , je suis certaine que la beauté de l'environnement à Dolomite compensera le reste ...même si le point d'eau est loin du lodge!
Les lodges sont maintenant réservés et confirmés , de même que le véhicule .
En début d'année 2017 je réserverai les activités qui le nécessitent.
Bien cordialement
Bonjour Pilar,
Je vous réponds depuis le Botswana...😎
J'ai oublié de vous dire qu'en 2015 nous avions un double reservoir dans notre ( plutôt ancien) Toyota Hilux, ce qui nous garantissait pas mal d'autonomie.
Cette année, nous sommes à nouveau partis de Windhoek en Toyota Hilux, mais dans ce modèle tres récent ( 12000km seulement) nous avons un simple réservoir, donc moins d'autonomie... mais en faisant le plein chaque fois qu'on trouve du carburant, ça se passe bien.
Par contre, je ne partirai pas sans deux roues de secours!
À chaque voyage nous en utilisons une...😉
Bonne journée,
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
l'Erongo est un très bel endroit avec effectivement des marches guidées. Celle, a priori du matin, passe par des sommets. Ils en proposent une autre le soir (le fameux sundowner) près de peintures rupestres.
Ah le Botswana ! nous gardons de merveilleux souvenirs de notre voyage en 2012 dans le Kalahari et à Moremi . Un festival d'animaux . Nous y etions dans des conditions optimales : tente safari au milieu du bush , chauffeur , guide , cuisinier ... Nous nous sommes fait plaisir et ne l'avons pas regretté ( notre banquier , lui, peut être ).
Pour la deuxième roue de secours , elle est prévue dans la location de voiture .
Pour l'essence , nous serons attentifs à faire le plein dès que c'est possible.
Je vous remercie de ces précisions. Nous avons une marche guidée comprise dans le prix de l'hébergement . Nous verrons si nous la faisons le soir ou le matin en fonction de notre heure d'arrivée.
J'avance tranquillement dans la préparation de notre voyage pour juillet prochain .
Les lodges sont confirmés et j'ai même déjà reservé quelques activités ( Rhino tracking à Grootberg et game drive à Mount Etjo ) .
Nous avons été un peu frustrés de ne pas trouver de place à Okonjima , déjà complet il y a un mois .
Aussi , je me demandais s'il vous semblait possible (en km et donc en temps ) que nous puissions faire un détour par la CCF pour participer à l'une de leurs activités ( Cheetah drive de 9h30 voire 10h30 ) sur la route d'Etosha . Nous dormons à Onguma Tree Top et devons en route faire quelques courses pour les pique niques et le plein d'essence .
Quelle vous semble être la route la plus rapide pour relier Mount Etjo et la CCF , puis la CCF et Onguma ? Je précise que nous aurons un SUV ;
Merci d'avance à tous de vos conseils toujours judicieux ( j'espère avoir été à peu près claire ) .
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana / Zimbabwe · 1 reply
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I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!