cette question me fait marrer
à chaque fois que je parle de cette ile les gens me demandent ou elle est
et bien c'est tout simplement une des iles des Canaries
et oui ce n'est pas très exotique
bye bye
En voyage, on s'emmène avec soi, hélas
- --
Christophe - www.catof.net
oh ben pas grand'chose si tu vas à cibyclette.... de toutes manières, tu éviteras naturellement les grands axes de cette manière....
Combien de temps prévois-tu rester? Si tu vas et reste un peu à Orzola (grand nord) je pense qu'un saut de puce sur la Graciosa et Alegranza ne seront pas à négliger. Depuis Playa Grande il y a (il y avait?) une avenida (devenue une piste) aux réverbères rouillés et tordus, en direction de je ne sais plus quelle baie (Papagayo, peut-être bien). Prenez-là, elle conduit vers une anse où tu pourras campre seul ou en compagnie de quelques routards ou babs. La "avenida", elle a hélas précédé la mort de César Manrique (défenseur d'une certaine idée d'authenticité de l'île) mais il semblerait que la relève (d'où l'aspect tordu et rouillé des réverbères) se soit réveillée. Chouette!
Faut absolument que je trouve le temps de retourner flâner par là-bas. Tu enverras un post après ton retour, histoire de savoir où ça en est? Conseil chuchoté dans le creux de l'oreille: c'est à HIERRO qu'il faut aller te promener!
Allez bye!
"le silence des pantoufles est plus terrifiant que le bruit des bottes"
merci beaucoup pour les infos
Nous partons du 25 oct au 2 nov
et depuis ce soir une soudaine envie d'aller faire aussi un tour sur FUERTEVENTURA
je n'ai pas trouvezHIERRO (ou bien c'est l'ile d'EL.HIERRO et ce n'est pas possible)
mais si le coin me plait j'irai faire les autres iles.
c'est dommage que le 25 ne soit pas demain.
bye bye et encore merci
Christophe
En voyage, on s'emmène avec soi, hélas
- --
Christophe - www.catof.net
Sur l ile de Lanzarotte il y a un triathlon longue distance qui est organisé, alors la partie vélo fait 180 km donc peut etre le tour de l'ile tres volcanique et donc "montagneuse".
Comme tu es en ligne en ce moment je te réponds
c'est simple je compte y retourner
c'était vraiment sympa, un espece de voyage hors du temps
pas de stress, pas de foule, pas de bruit, par dur...
et en plus c'était beau
en somme, gros coup de blues en retournant au boulot
et c'est ce que je cherche, avoir toujours envie de repartir
bye
Christophe
En voyage, on s'emmène avec soi, hélas
- --
Christophe - www.catof.net
http:// www.catof.net? peux-ut confirmer l'adresse? Oui, j'irai voir.
J'ai une grande nostalgie des Canaries telles que je les aime (Lanzarote hors circuit, Fuerteventura du centre, El Hierro, un café de p'tits vieux, la voix d'un mec avec sa guitare... sur qui j'avais envie de faire un boulot conséquent) depuis que l'autre jour j'ai ravivé tout ça en échangeant quelques impressions avec un Véèfiste. Hélas, trois fois hélas, je pars en Australie!
Gonflée je suis! Je me plains de devoir renoncer au périple Canario parce que j'ai un périple Australo en vue! Shame on me silly girl!
Qantas m'a envoyé mes billets, une super promo, et je pars le 29 mars. Retour le 03 Juin.
Est-ce que l'esprit de la sauvegarde de l'île "selon Manrique" a repris du poil de la bête ou bien ceux de la Peninsula arrivent-ils à imposer leur point de vue de promoteurs-turbo?
Es-tu allé à Femas manger du cabrito ?
As-tu bu de la Malvasia de El Grifo?
As-tu rencontré mon couple de corbeaux à Timanfays, au large du circuit, là où deux palmiers sont les seuls arbres à 5 kms à la ronde?
As-tu ramassé des débris d'olivine?
As-tu vu l'hélico dans le jardin de l'autre brindezingue près de Yaiza?
Est-ce que le Charco près d'el Golfo était très vert?
Oh la la, quelle nostalgie j'ai de Lanzarote, tierra negra, isla rota, ce soir!
"le silence des pantoufles est plus terrifiant que le bruit des bottes"
Es-tu allé à Femas manger du cabrito ? Non raté (damned)
As-tu bu de la Malvasia de El Grifo? non trops fénéants pour descendre et remonter la cote (re dmned)
As-tu rencontré mon couple de corbeaux à Timanfays, au large du circuit, là où deux palmiers sont les seuls arbres à 5 kms à la ronde?
la famille avait grandi depuis ton passage, nous avons partagé des figues à l'ombre de l'arbre
As-tu ramassé des débris d'olivine, oui oui le trésort de la lave, mes filles étaient ravi de leur père pirate des canaries
As-tu vu l'hélico dans le jardin de l'autre brindezingue près de Yaiza?
Ho oui ! trop fort (merde j'ai oublié de le prendre en photo, faut que j'y retourne)
Est-ce que le Charco près d'el Golfo était très vert?
pas beau le vert mais un soleil de se tournant dans l'autre sens, un soleil, et ces nuages et cette mer et le ciel . du coup pas beau le vert
l'esprit de la sauvegarde de l'île "selon Manrique" (non ça c'est oublié )
enfin je crois ! les promoteurs-turbo ils ont de sacrés arguments
l'australie wwhhoouuaaaiii bin faudrait peut être pas trop raler quand mm
ls canaries seront toujours là à ton retour
bon et beau voyage
Christophe
En voyage, on s'emmène avec soi, hélas
- --
Christophe - www.catof.net
(shit, j'ai paumé mon message pendant que j'allais quérir des photos scannées dans mes fichiers! tant pis, je recommence)
Donc: jolies tes z'images, et très beau ton site. Congratulations!
l'hélico, je l'ai na na nèèèère! Mais bon, pas en numérique-presquepro, à l'époque c'était mon p'tit compact-très-amateur, donc je n'ose même pas te le proposer. Faudra que tu y retournes....
Les figues, c'était celles du figuier qui rampe au sol un km après les palmiers direction plein-silence. A l'époque (ça remonte, ouh lo looooo, à 1996 je crois bien) les deux corbeaux avaient foncé sur moi en piqué et il avait fallu un peu de temps jusqu'à ce qu'ils picorent les pommes que je leur apportais et déposais à une petit mètre de moi.
Si un jour tu y retournes, pour Fuerteventura j'ai de super tuyaux, tu peux même pas imaginer...
En tous cas, merci de m'avoir permis ce petit voyage-travelling arrière. Il faudra décidément que j'y retourne, pour achever ce qui a été laissé en attente. Impératif. Trop fort!
"le silence des pantoufles est plus terrifiant que le bruit des bottes"
Je vais à Lanzarotte dans 3 semaines et j'ai vu vos posts
Pataugas tu expliques que tu as des tuyeaux a la pelle sur FUERTEVENTURA
Peux tu m'en indiquer qq uns
En fait je pense que j'ai la mm approche que vous... essayer (si c'est possible) de sortir de la foule et rouver des trucs sympas
est ce difficle et long pour aller de lanzarote à furetventura
Salut, Deux petites questions:Avez-vous fait la traversée Cadiz-Las Palmas? Combien celle-ci vous a coûté? Une place(passager vélo) en cabine la + économique=entre 550 et 650 euros;Je trouve que c'est très cher:Y-a-t'il des offres + abordables que celles que j'ai consultées? Merci et A+
Salut Catof! J'espère que tu consulte encore VoyageForum car j'aurais besoin de tes lumières.
En fait, j'aimerais hiverner au soleil et ... faire du vélo, seulement voilà, mon vélo à moi il a des pneus pas plus gros qu'un boulon de quinze, de une et de deux, j'ai soixante cinq balais.
Alors, d'après toi, Lanzarote pourra-t-elle m'accueillir, me séduire ou me ... détruire. En bref, les routes sont-elles bonnes et les côtes (?)
Je suis impatient d'avoir ton avis.
A+ Ciao, ciao!
Jean
Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux.
salut salut jeanvanlier
et la question des pneus va viteêtre réglé, va en racheter une paire...voila ça c'est fait
pour le reste c'est que du morale
mais je serais toi je partirais confiant, la ballade sur l'ile n'a pas été trop dur (sauf peut etre la premiere étape)
et pour illustrer mon propos, et bien je dirais que ce voyage fut l'occasion pour ma femme de faire son premier périple en vélo, donc j'avais prévus des petites étapes, arrêt quand on voulait, un maximum de piste (je sius pas trop route) et dès que c'était beau on faisait une pause, la tente se plantait quand on s'arretait...
pour les routes c'est que du bonheur (mm si je prefere les pistes) le bitume est nikel, un billard...
pour les cotes je ne sais pas trop quoi te dire, je reviens d'une petite escapade dans les andes et quand les côtes étaient trop en côte, bin je marchais à coté du vélo............maintenant avec le temps, je m'enquiquine plus trop avec le style
si tu veux voir des vidéos de cette dernière balade tu vas ici : http://www.dailymotion.com/catof89/1
je te conseils l'episode 2 de "Entre Volcans et lagunes"
sinon je suis admiratif, et sache que c'est des gens comme toi qui me tire en avant, et oui ça va etre plus lourd pour toi du coup...
alors respect et chapeau bas Monsieur Jeanvanlier...
si tu veux je peux te faire une carte de mon itineraire et la coller sur mon site, mais c'est pas compliqué une ile...
bye bye je reste à ta dispo
Christophe
En voyage, on s'emmène avec soi, hélas
- --
Christophe - www.catof.net
Bonjour,
5 ans se sont ecoulés entre votre message et le mien, mais je viens quand même vous solliciter pour avoir de vos conseils.
Les vacances de février approchent, nous avons une bonne dizaines de jours a disposition, sommes un couple avec un tandem, une remorque et un enfant dedans. Nous voudrions faire la découverte de cette ile "LANZAROTE".
Pourriez vous nous conseiller sur l'itinéraire ? La période de février est elle selon vous appropriée ? Y-a-t il des facilités pour se loger le soir ?
Voilà plens de questions qui nous interpellent.
Merci pour vos conseils.
Deux choses à te dire:
- la période hivernale est classée Haute Saison sur les îles Canaries.
- je ne sais pas du tout comment Lanzarote a évolué, essaie de trouver des avis récents.
"le silence des pantoufles est plus terrifiant que le bruit des bottes"
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.