Après avoir parcouru le forum et amassé un max d'infos, voici l'itinéraire que nous avons retenu pour notre voyage de noces en Namibie/Botswana. C'est notre premier voyage en Afrique australe. Afin de gagner du temps (nous sommes déjà en retard !), nous passons par l'agence Tourmaline pour nous aider dans nos préparatifs.
Pouvez-vous me donner vos avis sur cet itinéraire "classique", sachant que :
- nous disposons de 3 semaines (trajet inclus)
- nous pouvons arriver à Windhoek et repartir du Botswana
- nous souhaitons principalement dormir en camping + alterner avec de beaux lodges de temps en temps (c'est notre lune de miel quand même 😄)
- nous n'avons jamais fait de safari, et avons hâte de découvrir cette nouvelle expérience, mais ne souhaitons pas axer tout notre voyage sur l'observation des animaux. Nous aimons varier les activités si possible.
- nous fuyons en général les endroits bondés de touristes (dans la mesure du possible en juillet !)
Qu'en pensez-vous ? Quels sont vos avis au niveau de la durée et de l'intérêt des étapes et des camps choisis ?
Avez-vous des recommandations de lodges haut-de-gamme sur certaines étapes (3 ou 4 nuits en tout) ?
Dernière question : la visite des Victoria's fall est-elle un must ? Ou vaut-il mieux la supprimer au profit d'une autre étape ?
Bon, je me rends compte que mon message est un peu indigeste ! 😊
Avant de rentrer dans les détails du parcours, pouvez-vous m'aider sur 1 point :
Namibie + Botswana ou Namibie only ?
->En choisissant d'aller jusqu'aux Victoria's fall, on loupe Fish River Canyon, le désert du Kalahari, kaokoland, waterberg.
->En choisissant de rester en Namibie, nous loupons le delta de l'Okavango, la bande de Caprivi, Chobe et les chutes Victoria
A votre avis, pour une durée de 3 semaines, que privilégier ? Quel itinéraire vous semble le plus varié ? Le plus adapté à une première visite en Afrique australe ?
Un grand merci à ceux qui pourront nous éclairer 😎
Non, tu ne loupes pas le Kalahari ! Le Kalahari s'étend sur une bonne partie de la Namibie, quasiment tout le Botswana, et un bout d'Angola, d'Afrique du Sud et du Zimbabwe !
J'aime beaucoup le Caprivi et ses parcs très sauvages et méconnus alors ce que tu envisages me plaît !
Les déserts sont la face la plus évidente de la Namibie, mais ses fleuves mythiques, Okavango et Zambèze valent aussi le voyage !
Si après vous êtes en manque de Fish River Canyon ou d'Epupa Falls, eh bien il faudra revenir...
Personnellement j'enlèverais une nuit à Etosha pour l'ajouter dans le Caprivi et avoir le temps de visiter ses parcs méconnus (Susuwe Triangle et Horseshoe Bend, Mudumu, Mamili), soit au volant si vous le sentez de conduire dans le sable, soit en game drive au départ d'un camp ou lodge autour de Kongola.
Victoria Falls, il serait dommage de ne pas y aller une fois que vous êtes à Kasane, de là à dire qu'elles sont un must...
Quelques idées de nuits en lodge plutôt qu'en camping ?Rostock Ritz plutôt que la deuxième nuit à Sesriem NWR (les bruits de moteurs à 4h du matin une deuxième fois, bof et ça couperait la longue route vers Swakopmund).Grootberg Lodge plutôt que Palmwag Lodge (le camp de Palmwag est OK, mais le lodge n'a pas très bonne réputation)2 nuits à Xaro Lodge sur une île de l'Okavango (plutôt qu'une à Drotsky's et une à Nunda)Bonnes cogitations.
Mille mercis Pierre pour ton retour ! Cela nous conforte donc dans notre choix initial. Nous prenons note de tes recos pour les adresses et la nuit à Etosha à supprimer.
Petit détail que j'ai omis de mentionner : nous partons le... 3 juillet ! 😎 Est-ce vraiment trop tard pour espérer dormir quelque part ?
Tourmaline ne nous a pas mentionné le problème et ne semble pas s'inquiéter mais je lis partout que nous sommes hors délais, surtout pour la partie Botswana. Qu'est-ce que cela implique exactement ? 😕 Nous qui voulions dormir dans un ou deux beaux lodges, doit-on faire une croix dessus ? Va-t-on avoir un 4x4 de fond de tiroir ? 🤪
Namibie + Botswana ou Namibie only ?
->En choisissant d'aller jusqu'aux Victoria's fall, on loupe Fish River Canyon, le désert du Kalahari, kaokoland, waterberg.
->En choisissant de rester en Namibie, nous loupons le delta de l'Okavango, la bande de Caprivi, Chobe et les chutes Victoria
À ta place, je choisirai d'aller jusqu'aux Victoria's Fall, c'est juste sompteux ! Tu visiteras le waterberg une prochaine fois..!
A votre avis, pour une durée de 3 semaines, que privilégier ? Quel itinéraire vous semble le plus varié ? Le plus adapté à une première visite en Afrique australe ?
Avec mon mari, on a choisi de respecter l'itinéraire de ce site (on est resté 15 jours).
En gros, on a fait : Johannesbourg > kiepersol > route panoramique > sabi sand et delta de l'okavango.
C'était un des plus beaux voyages que j'ai fait de toute ma vie (et j'en ai fait un petit paquet). Bon courage à vous!
Laura,
Pierre est de bon conseil. Caprivi c'est très bien.
2 nuits à etosha:Ok
Sommes partis en 2009 avec tourmaline: étions à etendeka lodge +tôt qu'à Palmwag: très bien, ils viennent nous chercher à la station service de Palmwag et nous emmènent en 4x4 jusqu'au camp avec un beau gamedrive pour rejoindre le camp.
fischreiher à swakop: c'est simple mais le patron (très germanique !!!) est très sympa: il vous trouvera un bon restau et réservera pour vous si nécessaire.
Attention, il fera froid: A l'Anib nous nous sommes réveillés avec 3° (23/24 juillet).
Nous partons le... 3 juillet ! 😎 Est-ce vraiment trop tard pour espérer dormir quelque part ?
Non, sans doute pas, quite à devoir faire quelques petits aménagements.
je lis partout que nous sommes hors délais, surtout pour la partie Botswana.
Ça poserait sans doute problème si vous vouliez séjourner dans les camps de Moremi et/ou Chobe. Mais là votre partie Botswana ne comporte que 2 jours à Kasane où les possibilités d'hébergement sont nombreuses.
Nous qui voulions dormir dans un ou deux beaux lodges, doit-on faire une croix dessus ?
Ce ne sont pas forcément ceux qui se remplissent le plus vite... (Encore que pour Grootberg par exemple, ce n'est pas gagné)
Va-t-on avoir un 4x4 de fond de tiroir ?
C'est peut-être la question la plus cruciale. Posez beaucoup de questions, essayez de savoir qui sera le loueur. Préférez un double cabine plutôt qu'un simple cabine quitte à mettre un peu plus. Un simple cabine n'a que strictement deux places dans la cabine, ce qui ne permet pas d'y mettre un sac, photo, une glacière, etc. Tout est à l'arrière dans la benne et prend la poussière. Alors qu'avec un double, vous pouvez mettre vos sacs à la place de la banquette arrière, à l'abri.
Merci à tous pour vos retours !
Nous partons donc sur un combiné Namibie/Botswana/Chutes Victoria.
Pierre,
J'ai bien noté l'importance du véhicule de location. Par défaut Tourmaline nous a proposé un 4x4 double cabine avec tente sur le toit. Y a-t-il des agences à demander en priorité ? Ou des modèles de véhicules en particulier ?
Nous ne souhaitons pas négliger ce point, quitte à payer plus cher.
Pour nos nuits au Botswana, conseilles-tu de tenter de passer une nuit à Chobe ? Je suppose que c'est plus sympa que 2 nuits à kasane ?
L'itinéraire proposé me semble excellent. Vous allez faire un super voyage de noces, c'est garanti !
Concernant le problème du délai des réservations pour juillet, si vous êtes suffisamment avancés dans votre réflexion, demande à Tourmaline de faire un point précis sur les principales réservations, de façon à ce qu'il s'engage sur ce qu'il te propose. Une fois l'itinéraire devenu ferme sur le devis, tu confirmes ASAP.
Pierre,
J'ai bien noté l'importance du véhicule de location. Par défaut Tourmaline nous a proposé un 4x4 double cabine avec tente sur le toit. Y a-t-il des agences à demander en priorité ? Ou des modèles de véhicules en particulier ?
Double cab et tente de toit, c'est bien. Essaie de t'assurer que c'est un Toyota plutôt qu'un Nissan et un Diesel plutôt qu'un essence. Le Nissan essence proposé par certains loueurs est le moins cher à la location car c'est le véhicule de ce type le moins cher à l'achat. Mais il est vraiment poussif et gourmand. Je ne pense pas que tu puisses vraiment demander un loueur en particulier. Par contre, tu peux essayer de savoir lequel ce sera.
Tourmaline ne commencera les résas que lorsqu'il aura reçu un acompte, c'est là que des problèmes de disponibilité pourront apparaître, mais il y a toujours une solution !
Tourmaline ne commencera les résas que lorsqu'il aura reçu un acompte, c'est là que des problèmes de disponibilité pourront apparaître, mais il y a toujours une solution !
D'où la nécessité d'être très réactif entre confirmation des disponibilités par Tourmaline et accord du client (= réception de l'acompte par le TO)
Je n'ai pas eu le temps de lire toutes les réponses, mais au pire ça fait un vote en plus pour ça: allez à Sossusvlei !! C'est juste magnifique, dans le désert du Namib, des dunes de couleur rouille, des couchers de soleil africains mieux que dans les films, une ambiance Roi Lion à tomber parterre, franchement j'ai adoré. Mon article sur Sosussvlei ici: http://1monde1backpack.com/2014/01/24/sossusvlei-namib-naukluft-national-park/
Un coin à ne pas manquer en Namibie est aussi Sparwater, mais je doute que cela soit très accessible, j'y étais allé avec une agence et je pense que le fermier avait un accord avec l'agence. Cependant si mes souvenirs sont bons y'avait moyen de dormir chez lui en "voyageur indépendant" :-).
Ca y est nous avons réservé notre voyage via Tourmaline.
Sur les conseils de Pierre, nous avons bloqué un Toyota double cabine diesel, et nous souhaitons maintenant ajuster les hébergements. Je vous joins le programme proposé par Tourmaline avec 2 nuits de plus dans le delta de l'Okavango.
Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Personnellement j'enlèverais une nuit à Etosha pour l'ajouter dans le Caprivi et avoir le temps de visiter ses parcs méconnus (Susuwe Triangle et Horseshoe Bend, Mudumu, Mamili), soit au volant si vous le sentez de conduire dans le sable, soit en game drive au départ d'un camp ou lodge autour de Kongola.
A votre avis, avec ce nouveau programme, faut-il enlever une nuit à l'Okavango ou à Etosha et l'ajouter à Kongola ?
Rostock Ritz plutôt que la deuxième nuit à Sesriem NWR (les bruits de moteurs à 4h du matin une deuxième fois, bof et ça couperait la longue route vers Swakopmund).Grootberg Lodge plutôt que Palmwag Lodge (le camp de Palmwag est OK, mais le lodge n'a pas très bonne réputation)2 nuits à Xaro Lodge sur une île de l'Okavango (plutôt qu'une à Drotsky's et une à Nunda)
OK nous allons faire ces demandes auprès de l'agence, n'hésitez pas à nous envoyer d'autres reco si vous en avez 😉
A votre avis, avec ce nouveau programme, faut-il enlever une nuit à l'Okavango ou à Etosha et l'ajouter à Kongola ?
Ça pourrait donner :
13/07 - Rundu
14/07 - Shakawe - Xaro Lodge
15/07 - Shakawe - Xaro Lodge
16/07 - Bagani - Nunda
17/07 - Kongola - Namushasha
18/07 - Kongola - Namushasha
La route pour aller jusqu'à Guma (ou Nguma) est plutôt monotone et ne pas aller jusque là fait gagner une journée.
À Rundu, Bagani et Shakawe c'est bien l'Okavango ! 😉
Pour Rostock Ritz et Grootberg, je persiste (s'il y a de la place, à Grootberg ce n'est pas gagné).
Salut.
J'étais parti avec Tourmaline il y a 4 ans et tout s'était bien déroulé. PAr contre j'avais réservé en décembre pour août et j'avais eu un problème de disponibilité sur 3-4 hébergements.
Passez 3 nuits à Etosha si vous aimez faire de la photo animalière.
On avais séjournée à Mowani mountain camp. Site extraordinaire bien que l'accueil était très moyen mais ce n'est pas si grave.
Pour le reste, c'est nickel.
Si vous aviez une journée de plus, séjournez à Drotsky's cabin. Ils ont des tentes au bord de l'Okavongo. Le praradis sur terre.
Mon parcours en détail est dans un carnet de voyage sur VF.
Salut.
Le Xaro lodge oui. C'est où j'avais séjourné il y a siiiiiiiiiii longtemps. Depuis d'illustres forumeurs s'y sont rendu.
Belles photos à réaliser.
🙂
Bonjour à tous !
Nous avons finalisé une bonne partie des hébergements, à 2 endroits près : Kasane (2 nuits) et Victoria Falls (dernière nuit du séjour).
On nous propose Chobe Safari Lodge mais nous ne sommes pas fans des gros complexes. Connaissez vous Chobe Bakwena Lodge ? Il me semble sympa.
Idem à Victoria Fall... pas convaincus par tous ces hôtels "de luxe".
Avez-vous des adresses à nous proposer ? Quitte à y mettre le budget, nous préférons une adresse de charme plutôt qu'un gros complexe certes luxueux mais sans caractère.
Merci beaucoup à ceux qui pourront nous aider !
Laura.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana · 6 replies
Je suis nouveau sur le forum et je vous sollicite pour me donner votre avis ou conseils sur la première partie de mon tour du monde que je débute en Août par…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana · 6 replies
Nous comptons partir en Namibie du 31 Octobre au 24 Novembre 2019. Nous hésitons encore un peu sur l'itinéraire mais comptons faire une boucle Namibie…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana · 10 replies
Nous partons mon mari et moi pour un périple de 25 jours entre la Namibie et le Botswana du 24/12/16 au 17/1/17. Les guides sont rares, succints et à la…
Revenus conquis par un séjour de 21 jours en Namibie en juillet 2016 (camping), nous avons craqué et avons déjà acheté nos billets d'avion pour l'année…
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!
Now that the Kruger part is (almost) wrapped up, I’m looking at the "Cape region" section.
The idea of spending 2 days (well, more like 2 nights and 1.5 days) in the Cederberg is really tempting 😎.
I’ve reread the posts about it—more or less (actually, more less than more)—and I still have quite a few questions:
- Where’s the best area to stay? Initially, I was looking at Kagga Kama, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the cost (or the trip, for that matter), or maybe Mount Ceder? Or somewhere else (without driving 6 or 8 hours from CT 😉)?
The plan is to get there in a sedan (if possible), see some beautiful landscapes, and do one or two hikes (nothing too tough 😛).
- I read that you need a permit to hike there... where do you buy it? (At the entrance, like in Kruger? 🤪)
- Is October a good time for the weather (theoretically...)?