Je me présente future "tourist namibienne" baptême d'Afrique, de conduite 4X4. Par contre connais camping, voyage en voiture, moto, et habitantes des espaces "sauvage" d'Auvergne!! les trajets se comptent aussi en temps et pas en kilomètre.😛
Je fais appelle aux habitués de cette contrée.
En vrac 2 premières questions :
Nous passons d'abord la nuit dans la capitale après arrivée du vol à 20h le lundi 21 aout.
1/Départ de Windhoek dans la journée de mardi après prise du véhicule le matin. Je voulais démarrer en douceur les étapes. Donc rouler 2 h max histoire de prendre contact avec le terrain. Connaissez vous Melrose Game Farm et/ou Prospect Guest farm? ou pousser jusqu'à Lake Oanob camping .
2/En fin de séjour faire trajet entre Hoada camping et okaukuejo camp,
J'hésite sur la faisabilité du trajet dans la journée. En passant par Galton gate avant 13h30 (fermeture) et arrivée au camp Etosha avant la nuit (17h30).
Les temps sur la carte T4A cela passe mais en vrai.
y a t il des retours de voyageurs? Qu'en pensez vous pour des novices. Nous sommes 2 conducteurs sur les 3 personnes.
Il y a 2 ans nous avions fait Halali-Hoada via Galton gate sans problème et en s’arrêtant plusieurs fois pour observer les animaux, donc pour Okaukuejo il n'y a aucun soucis selon moi. 🙂
Les temps sur la carte T4A cela passe mais en vrai.
Les temps indiqués par T4A sont la moyenne de ceux relevés par les contributeurs qui les ont réalisés. Ils sont proches de la réalité pour des débutants, confortables pour ceux qui sont plus habitués à rouler sur ces revêtements.
Départ de Windhoek dans la journée de mardi après prise du véhicule le matin. Je voulais démarrer en douceur les étapes. Donc rouler 2 h max histoire de prendre contact avec le terrain. Connaissez vous Melrose Game Farm et/ou Prospect Guest farm? ou pousser jusqu'à Lake Oanob camping .
On avait fait exactement la même chose : arrivée à l'aéroport en fin de matinée, trajet vers Windhoek, recupération du véhicule (on a même ajouté 1h de courses en sortant de la ville) et route jusqu'à Rehoboth pour dormir au bord du lac Oanob.
C'est largement jouable (c'est une belle route, bien roulante, idéale pour ce faire à la conduite à gauche) ; et arrivé au camp, on avait vu notre premières girafes et zèbres du voyage :)
Pas mal comme mise en bouche!
Tu trouveras quelques infos sur le guide pratique d'un voyage en Namibie sur notre site ;)
Merci à vous deux aussi pour vos commentaires. J'admire la liste de voyage déjà à votre actif.
J'ai vu un aperçu de ton site Guillaume, j'adore les photos. Je suis bien tentée par la sortie en kayak.
Comme autres interrogations basiques 🤪 ,
quelles sommes d'argent retirer à l'aéroport dans un premier temps? Sachant que nous ferons essentiellement du camping.
Pour prendre un taxi en sortant du terminal, sont ils facilement repérables?
Comment réserver son emplacement de camping la journée si on se déplace en voiture comme la tente est sur le toit?
J'ai lu comme équipement en camping "donkey" pour la douche 😮 ...???
Une réflexion au sujet de l'usage du braai. Savez vous d'ou vient le bois? La Namibie n'est pas un pays bien pourvu en ressource forestière.😕 Est ce pas déplacé d'en faire usage pour nous touristes?
A Hoada oui la douche c'est au donkey.
Faut prévoir environ 30-45 minutes pour avoir de l'eau chaude.
Le matin le personnel était venu allumer notre donkey avant que nous nous réveillons. 🙂
Je ne connais pas l'impact de la consommation du bois mais il vient très certainement de Namibie, au pire d'Afrique du Sud.
Là bas le barbecue et le camping c'est toute l'année, les sud-af en consomment pas mal !
J'ai vu un aperçu de ton site Guillaume, j'adore les photos. Je suis bien tentée par la sortie en kayak.
Merci! 🙂
C'était sympa le kayak, un peu glauque par moment comme tu as dû le lire, mais sympa quand même. Je recommande oui!
quelles sommes d'argent retirer à l'aéroport dans un premier temps? Sachant que nous ferons essentiellement du camping.
Pour prendre un taxi en sortant du terminal, sont ils facilement repérables?
Comment réserver son emplacement de camping la journée si on se déplace en voiture comme la tente est sur le toit?
Pour ces questions, je crois qu'on avait retiré une centaine d'euros le premier jour ; tu arrive assez facilement à payer avec la CB, jusque dans les villes moyennes et même dans les campings.
Pour le taxi à l'aéroport, nous avions pris la navette du loueur de voiture. Mais de mémoire, en sortant de l'aéroport (c'est pas Roissy), tu avais quelques taxis bien identifiés.
Et enfin, pour réserver la place, on utilisait la table et les chaises de camping.
Ah bien merci des réponses, et au sujet de la pression des pneus pour la conduite 4X4 sur les différentes pistes. Il faut être à combien selon la nature du terrain et éviter de crever un pneu?
Bonjour Jackou. Pas sûr que celà soit une bonne idée de surgonfler encore. Les loueurs surgonflent en général déjà pas mal car craignant que les clients ne vérifient pas. On se retrouve avec des pneus à la limite de l'éclatement. J'ai eu plusieurs cas. 4 bars au lieu de 2.4 ... Le mieux est sans doute de s'en tenir aux instructions du loueur et de vérifier régulièrement.
Jackou a raison. Ça dépend du véhicule et du type de route. Le loueur a tout intêret à ce que tout se passe bien. On peut donc lui faire confiance. Pourtant ce qui se passe souvent, c'est que l'employé qui s'occupe de la voiture juste avant qu'elle ne parte va surgonfler plus ou moins (parfois bien trop) pour "être sûr..." Je suggère donc un contrôle sous les yeux du loueur ou à la première station service. Quel type de voiture allez-vous louer ?
Idéalement partir avec son propre manomètre de pression..ou un gonfleur avec mano contrôlé en europe avec celui d'un garage pour être sûr de ses avaleurs d'affichage....
En effet, le gonfleur 12v qui était dans notre bakkie affichait une différence négative de 0.3 bar avec notre gonfleur...vérifié....qui est pour ma part un "dégonfleur" ARB accessoire bien connu des 4x4treux....😏
Je ne suis pas un pro des pneus. D'après la synthèse de ce que j'ai appris je dirais 2.3 bar sur l'asphalte (en chauffant un peu, çà devrait donner 2.4 à 2.5) Sur les grandes pistes, 1,8 devant et 2 à l'arrière (pour 80 -90 km/h en principe) sauf si vous êtes très chargés (passez à 2 devant et 2.2 arrière) En cas d'enlisement sable mou 1 bar. À éviter et regonfler dès que possible.
Bonsoir Geneviève,
Il y a 1 mois ce soir nous prenions notre dernier repas à Windhoek après 7 semaines du Cap à Etosha ( à la louche), donc c'est encore assez frais ds ma mémoire .
Juste 2 petites choses: Nous nous sommes vraiment ennuyé ( mais peut être on a pas eu de chance) de Gaton Gate à Okaukuejo . La piste est monotone et peu fréquentée , en tout cas ce jour là! Nous y retournons en Octobre avec un groupe d'amis et nous irons par la route de Kamanjab Outjo enfin celle qui roule pour entrer direct à Okaukuejo .
En ce qui concerne l'argent , nous avons eu un mal de chien à trouver du cash après Swakop . il n'y avait pas de grandes villes avant Kamanjab et ds cette ville plus d'argent ds les distributeurs et pas de distributeurs à Etosha . Il a fallu jongler avec ce qui nous restait , jusqu'à Tsumeb.
À part ça on a passé 7 semaines de rêve et on retourne donc à l'automne... je pense que nous sommes , comme bcp sur ce forum, totalement addict, Amitiés , Sylvie
Vous avez voyagé durant la basse saison et météo différente par rapport à aout sept.
Pour le trajet par Galton gate pour aller à Okaukuejo, il me semble qu'en partant de Hoada campsite c'est plus direct. Car nous ferons une étape dans ce camping avant Etosha.
Ensuite pour l'argent en liquide, à votre avis il faudrait prendre combien en partant de l'aéroport ou Windhoek?
Sachant que nous serons 3 en 4X4 avec tentes sur toit donc principalement camping.
nous irons à Rehoboth puis direction Sesriem via Namib Rand et/ou Naukfult.
Aller vers la cote Walvis bay puis Brandberg...
En partant de Hoada Campsite c'est plus direct c'est sûr , moi je venais de Hobatere et Hoada le jour d'avant et ça nous semblait encore plus près , ce que je veux dire c'est que c'est ennuyeux et piste tôle ondulée interminable . Mais c'est juste mon avis...
Pour les sous après Sawkop il n' ya pas trop d'endroit où en récupérer et c'est dur de donner un montant . Si vous êtes 4 je changerai à l'aéroport au moins 500€ . et faire le point à Sawkop car à ce moment là vous aurez une meilleure idée de ce que vous avez besoin en cash . Rien à Brandberg , rien à Twifelfontein et pas sûr à Kamanjab ( pour nous rien!) et rien à Etosha ( droit d'entrée à Etosha seulement en cash si pas prépayés).
Voila c'est mon avis , bonne préparation. Sylvie
Entre Swakop et Kamanjab il y a des distributeurs à Henties Bay, Uis, Khorixas, et Kamanjab. Que cette machine là aie été vide, c'est pas de bol. C'est quand même pas mal pour environ 400km de presque désert ? Mais peut-être que votre parcours a étè un peu hors des routes principales ?
J'en profite pour rapeller qu'il y a aussi des distribanques à Rehoboth, Sesriem (2), Solitaire, Canon roadhouse et presque tous les villages un tant soit peu important. Ne demandez jamais plus de 2000 dollars nam par retrait, voire 1500 pour les machines en dehors des banques, et sélectionnez toujours "chèque" plutôt que "credit card".
MÀJ. Il y a maintenant 3 distribanques à Kamanjab. Il faut les chercher dans les supermarchés. La piste de Galton gate vers Okaukuejo a été remise en état en partie ces semaines passées mais il reste qques km de tôle ondulée vers Okaukuejo. C'est vrai que cette étape est longuette. Faites une pause café à Olifantsrus... mais gardez à l'esprit que ce sont 200km en théorie à 60km/h... En entrant à Galton on peut prendre le permis et payer à Okaukuejo avec une carte. Pour économiser l'argent comptant.
Si vous choisissez credit card il y a de fortes chances que la transaction ne se fasse pas. Avec cheque, c'est l'inverse. Le "pourquoi" se trouve qque part dans l'univers obscure des arcanes de la banquerie internationale....
MÀJ. Il y a maintenant 3 distribanques à Kamanjab. Il faut les chercher dans les supermarchés. La piste de Galton gate vers Okaukuejo a été remise en état en partie ces semaines passées mais il reste qques km de tôle ondulée vers Okaukuejo. C'est vrai que cette étape est longuette. Faites une pause café à Olifantsrus... mais gardez à l'esprit que ce sont 200km en théorie à 60km/h... En entrant à Galton on peut prendre le permis et payer à Okaukuejo avec une carte. Pour économiser l'argent comptant.
Bonsoir Philippe ,
Bon ben on a pas eu de chance, alors ! Ceci dit TOUS les distribanques étaient vides à Kamanjab et un monsieur nous a gentiment dit qu'ils étaient réservés aux Namibiens ...pas compris pourquoi? Oui c'est vrai qu'on a fait bcp de routes éloignées de tout . A part ça j'espère que vous avez compris que ce n'était pas une critique et que c'était juste pour relater notre expérience, petite par rapport à un habitant de Namibie. Désolée Philippe , bonne soirée à tous, Sylvie
Il n'y a pas de raison de s'excuser. Je me contente d'informer et il est bon de savoir qu'il y a des distribanques à Kamanjab vu la situation entre étapes. "Réservés aux namibiens" ? C'est n'importe quoi. Allez dire çà aux sudafs, vous allez voir... Je pense qu'une fois vides, ces distribanques ne sont pas réapprovisionnés très vite, et donc les locaux seront gènés. C'est sans doute ce que cette personne avait à dire en fait. Bon tour !
J'ai une autre question concernant la pratique de la conduite sur les pistes.
J'aimerais bien camper sur le site de Mirabib ou Gobabeb. A votre avis, pour des novices du 4X4 en Namibie peut on emprunter la piste sans risque?
En venant de Sesriem faut il prévoir une étape intermédiaire?
Cette piste est construite et en principe régulièrement entretenue, même si ce n'est pas souvent... par opposition aux vrais pistes à une voie tracées uniquement par le passage de véhicules, et elle est en général en bon état, voire meilleure que la C14 par laquelle vous allez venir. En fait pas besoin de 4x4.
Cette piste est construite et en principe régulièrement entretenue, même si ce n'est pas souvent..
J'en profite pour prolonger la question :
pour le trajet Mirabib - Gobabeb - Walvis Bay, 2 solutions :
Gobabeb => Vogelfederberg (D2186) puis C14/M36 jusqu'à Walvis Bay ;
Gobabeb => Rooibank => Walvis Bay (D1983) qui suit/emprunte le lit de la rivière Kuiseb.
La première possibilité ne devrait pas poser de problèmes, mais pour la seconde possibilité, Tourmaline me déconseille fortement (paumatoire, chronophage... ).
Quel est votre point de vue ?
Merci d'avance.
PS : sur la carte T4A, la piste D1983 est indiquée D2186 aussi mais n'est pas indiquée Jeep Track.
Gobabeb - Rooibank. La 1983 est en principe fermée au public. Vous êtes dans le parc et tenu de n'empreinter que les pistes que vous verrez sur le permis qu'on vous donnera. Je ne l'ai jamais prise et donc je ne sais pas dans quel état elle est. Je crois qu'elle est réservée exclusivement aux Topnaars qui vivent le long du lit de la rivière. Celà m'intéresserait aussi d'en savoir plus et je vais me renseigner d'avantage ces jours ci. Vous pouvez faire confiance à Tourmaline.
En fait il semble que cette piste soit ouverte au public. Je vérifie encore, mais je la soupçonne d'être probablement en mauvais état et donc plus longue en temps que celle de Vogelfederberg.
Le massif Erongo est il intéressant pour y faire une étape nuit en venant de Swakopmund via Spitzkoppe. ou choisir l'étape nuit au Mt Brandberg dans un camping communautaire.
J'hésite entre les deux. Merci
Je ne connais pas de camping dans les monts Erongo. Sur la route il y a Spitzkoppe bien sûr. Ensuite ce sont des lodges. Ai-Aiba qui est très sympa. Ils ont peut-être un camping. Il y a aussi Erongo wilderness lodge, et plusieurs fermes auberges. Il doit bien y avoir un camping dans le lot...
Bonjour Isap29
Merci de ton aide. Le plan, je me souviens l'avoir déjà vu dans mes fouilles namibiennes, mais je n'avais pas gardé.
Le camping Omanduba à coté du live museum san, c'est peut être bien, non?
Autre questionnement, la devise Rand sud Africain, peut on l'utiliser partout en namibie sans problème, et surtout au départ de l'aéroport pour payer le taxi par exemple? En faite on peut en commander par yes change contrairement au NAD.
Au fur et à mesure de mes recherches d'autres questions émergent.
J'ai lu des discussions sur les banques en ligne (Nickel, Revolut, N26) qui permettent de s'affranchir des frais bancaires lors de paiement ou retrait. Mais si je comprends, il faut déjà avoir un smartphone pour télécharger des applications et ouvrir son compte? eh oui je suis hors course😛 mais j'aime ça ...
Ensuite qu'en ai-t-il des frais de virement entre banque traditionnelle vers ces banques pour alimenter le compte virtuel?
J'envoie ce message au cas où quelqu'un(e) sache, mais je vais aussi chercher ailleurs. 😎
Bonjour
Nous avons ouvert un compte Revolut l'année dernière pour notre voyage aux US, super simple et effectivement aucun frais j'ai joué avec les taux pour choisir le moment au je change les Euros en dollars ...
Aucun frais de transfert si c'est avec un carte "débit" (je viens à l'instant d'en faire un pour notre week end à londres) sinon 1% je crois.
Retrait sans frais mais limité à 200E par mois sinon 2%.
On ne peut pas avoir des NAD sur la carte mais on peut payer les Euros qui sont sur la carte (le compte) et ils change au court NAD du jour.
J'ai payé ou pré payé ou réservé tous mes hotels en namibie avec aucun soucis.
On est trè compte de ce compte
Anne
PS smartphone obligatoire
2020 6 mois à 6 ...
2019 Bali
2018 Octobre Islande- Juillet Namibie - Avril Londres
2017 Ouest USA
2016 Thailande
Aucun frais de transfert si c'est avec un carte "débit" (je viens à l'instant d'en faire un pour notre week end à londres) sinon 1% je crois.
Retrait sans frais mais limité à 200E par mois sinon 2%.
PS smartphone obligatoire
Bonjour Anne,
Je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre. Les transferts avec une carte débit, que veux tu dire?
Comment tu alimentes le compte Revolut?
sinon, Je trouve un peu juste le montant par mois sans frais.
A+
Bonjour
Effectivement le montant de retrait en liquide est très juste mais les frais de 2% au delà sont en dessous des frais bancaires et en plus il n'y a pas de fixe (ma banque c'est 3E et qq + ...% par retrait).
En fait je vais sur mon appli puis je clique sur ajouter de l'argent je rentre mon numéro de CB de ma banque (carte de débit) avec mon CVV je choisis le montant à créditer puis je valide. C'est comme si j'avais fait un achat internet avec ma CB de ma banque normale.
On peut aussi faire un transfert depuis son compte mais ça je n'ai jamais fait.
Si tu as d'autre questions ?
PS le montant sans frais c'est juste pour les retraits
2020 6 mois à 6 ...
2019 Bali
2018 Octobre Islande- Juillet Namibie - Avril Londres
2017 Ouest USA
2016 Thailande
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 2 replies
Fin juillet nous partons à 5 en Namibie, avec 3 semaines de road trip et visite des parcs nationaux. On a lu des informations contradictoires concernant…
Voilà voilà, le grand jour est enfin là. Un voyage très attendu par toute la famille (mes 2 enfants, mon mari et moi-même). Pour faire court, nous sommes…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 5 replies
Partant en Namibie dans quelques jours, je viens de lire que les tarifs d'entrée de tous les parcs en Namibie avaient explosé. Hausse entre 86 et 100% ; et ce,…
Je pars en Namibie en mai prochain. J’envisage de prendre un 1er vol Paris- Johannesburg avec Air France qui part à 23h20 et arrive à 11h05 à Johannesburg.…
J'aurais besoin de quelques conseils Notre voyage en Namibie est prévu sur juin/ juillet 2026. Nous avons un problème de timing et de choix d'activités sur la…
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!