From Nan to Chiang Rai: itinerary ideas?

I’ll just go straight to the bus station

In Nan or anywhere else, that’s the best way to get complete and up-to-date info.

Bus Nan-Chiang Rai: route 611, Kor Sahakit Dernrod company. If it no longer exists, the shortest Plan B is to first go to Phayao (1 bus/day, book at the bus station the day before), then from Phayao to Chiang Rai—frequent buses or minivans and a short trip, so no need to book. If you have to spend the night in Phayao, it’s a town with very pleasant lakeside areas (accommodations tried: Huanpak Jumjak GH, great but with steep stairs, around 800-1000 THB, or KwanPhayao Lake House for 700-900 THB—book both if it’s the weekend).

Private driver in Nan: contacts can be found here 18°46'29.93"N 100°46'19.03"E (tourist center) or there 18°46'21.40"N 100°46'19.17"E (T.A.T.), both on Phakong Road running along the east side of Wat Phumin.

For specific sites, this isn’t the province’s strong suit—it’s more about nature and ethnic groups.

Itinerary: overall, the road options don’t allow for a loop.

Route combining countryside and mountains: Highway 1256, which passes near the Doi Phu Kha National Park headquarters before ending in Bo Kluea.

A short story from Nan Province:

It all started one day when I decided to explore the "Nan-ese" countryside. The day before, knowing that public transport rarely covers its roads, I got in touch with a driver with a car—actually, a driver*—that the Nan Tourist Center arranged for me. My request about the exact destination was simple: there wasn’t one. Sensing the driver was thrown off over the phone ("They’re crazy, these farangs!..."), I explained that my goal was just to wander around the countryside to photograph it (the countryside, not the driver!...). Well, I could tell that without any direction, it wasn’t going to work—wandering aimlessly isn’t very Thai (I already knew that, but I figured they’d make an effort for baht...). I quickly glanced at the province map on the wall and finally gave the driver a heading: straight to 010 until Pua, then a right turn at 090 to take route 1256 at a leisurely pace, passing near the headquarters of Doi Phu Kha National Park before ending up in Bo Kluea, then exploring the area around there. Ah, I could hear the driver’s relief. Meet-up at 7 AM at the guesthouse.

The next day, we set off on the winding route 1256, stopping often for photos and chatting with the few locals we met. We passed through Bo Kluea without stopping and kept going deeper into the countryside... until, on a tiny backroad in the middle of nowhere, we crossed a barrier with a sign I only had time to read: "under the royal patronage of the princess So-and-so." "??? Where are we going? What is this?" I asked. "I’m taking you to a Mlabri village. I thought it might interest you." Oh... I remembered that meeting the Mlabri was a dream for many travelers who love "hill tribes," a dream usually unfulfilled since this group is so hard to find—they’re nomadic, avoid outside contact, and their numbers are dwindling (about 235 total on the Thai and Laotian sides of the border, according to Wikipedia). And here I was, an average Songsam, being taken there without even asking. What a driver... But my joy was short-lived—it was too good to be true.

Turns out, it was a village where some Mlabri were gathered to learn sedentarization, which has become necessary due to deforestation. It looked like any other ethnic village, except... they all seemed miserable. Usually, when you show up in a remote village, the kids run away at first, and the adults watch from a distance. But with a little patience and some goofing around to break the ice, the kids eventually come closer—sometimes even swarming you—and the parents relax and lose their shyness. Not this time. We stayed for about two hours: no way to lighten the mood or start a conversation. Nothing. They kept going about their business in the same big communal space as us, but it was like we weren’t there. We had a small meal that the driver had prepared herself. She offered to share with them, but they stayed apart. After a while, feeling out of place and uncomfortable, we went for a walk around the village—same vibe everywhere. Seeing my disappointment, the driver reassured me: "Don’t worry, it’s always like this. It’s not because of you—it’s their culture. Do you want to leave?" "Yes." Before leaving, we did run into a few kids with their two teachers. The teachers, who were regular Thais, chatted with us. They were on a mission here.

Well, there you go—I met the Mlabri. "And?" the curious traveler asks. And... nothing.

On route 1256 (x7):















Mlabri children:

Hey old buddy,

Everything go okay at the airport?

Just so you know, I really liked the mountainous area around Thung Chang, north of the province.

As for cafés, I mentioned them in my travel journal. In the early 2020s, they sprouted like mushrooms all over the country, even in unlikely places. It’s always the same story: one person opens the first one, others see it’s working and follow suit. No business plan, no market research. Still, it’s super handy for folks like us.

Just wanted to mention that I really liked the mountainous area around Thung Chang, north of the province.

The "elephant sector"* is another area I loved—perfect for walking or biking through its very rural surroundings. To really enjoy the beautiful scenery, don’t just do a day trip (even by car) from Nan. Downside: since the super convenient Siam Garden Bungalow in town closed, it seems like only a few scattered resorts are left for accommodation. Despite its remoteness and small size, the town is connected to Bangkok by several comfortable overnight buses.

* Translation of Thung Chang, even though elephants aren’t around there anymore.

Invited to lunch by farmers during a long half-day hike east of Thung Chang:

Thanks Thierry! I’ll check all that out...

A little story from Nan Province:

This happened one day when I decided to explore the "Nan-ese" countryside. The day before, knowing that public transport rarely covers its roads, I contacted a driver with a car—actually, a female driver—that the Nan Tourist Center arranged for me. My request for a specific destination was simple: there wasn’t one. Sensing the driver was thrown off over the phone ("They’re crazy, these farangs!..."), I explained that my goal was just to wander around the countryside to photograph it (the countryside, not the driver!...). Well, I could tell that without any direction, it wasn’t going to work—wandering aimlessly isn’t very Thai (I already knew that, but I figured they’d make an effort for baht...). I quickly checked the province map on the wall and finally gave the driver a direction: head straight to 010 until Pua, then turn right onto 090 to take route 1256 at a leisurely pace, passing near the Doi Phu Kha National Park headquarters before ending up in Bo Kluea, then explore the area around there. Ah, I could hear the driver brighten up. Meet-up tomorrow at 7 AM at the guesthouse.

The next day, we drove along the winding route 1256, stopping often for photos and chats with the few locals we met. We passed through Bo Kluea without stopping and continued deep into the countryside... until, on a tiny backroad at the end of the world, we crossed a barrier with a sign I only had time to read: "under the royal patronage of the princess So-and-so." "???, where are we going? What is this?" I asked. "I’m taking you to a Mlabri village. I thought you might be interested." Wow... I remembered that meeting the Mlabri was a dream for many travelers who love "hill tribes," a dream usually unfulfilled because this group is so hard to find—they’re nomadic, avoid outside contact, and their numbers are dwindling (about 235 total on the Thai and Lao side of the border, according to Wikipedia). And here I was, an average Songsam, being taken there without even asking. What a driver... But my excitement was a little dampened—it was too good to be true.

Turns out, it was a village where some Mlabri were gathered to learn how to settle down, which has become necessary due to deforestation. It looked like any other ethnic village, except... everyone seemed miserable. Usually, when you show up in a remote village, the kids run away at first, and the adults watch from a distance. But with a little patience and some goofing around to break the ice, the kids eventually come closer—sometimes swarming you—and the parents relax and lose their shyness. Not this time. We stayed for about 2 hours: no way to lighten the mood or start a conversation. Nothing. They just went about their business in the same big common room as us, ignoring us. We had a small meal that the driver prepared herself, and she invited them to join us, but they stayed away. After a while, feeling out of place and uncomfortable, we went for a walk around the village—same vibe. Seeing my disappointment, the driver reassured me: "Don’t worry, it’s always like this. It’s not because of you—it’s their culture. Do you want to leave?" "Yes." Before leaving, we did run into a few kids with their two teachers. The teachers chatted with us. They were "normal" Thais on a mission here.

Well, there you go—I met the Mlabri. "And?" the curious traveler asks. And nothing...

On route 1256 (x7):















Mlabri children:



Thanks, but I already re-read that yesterday... And I’m actually really into it. Not the ethnic groups, but the road, the landscapes. And I was just thinking yesterday that all these tribes (at least in India) are tired of tourists visiting them like "curiosities" or even like animals. That wasn’t your intention, but they couldn’t have known that...

Thanks for the photos—they weren’t on the other forum!

For cafés, I mentioned them in my travel journal in progress. In the early 2020s, they sprouted like mushrooms all over the country, including in unlikely places.

What surprised me was the style of all these cafés. Pretty chic, even very chic. You expect to see the whole local intelligentsia show up there.

It’s always the same principle: one person opens the first one, others see it works and do the same. No business plan, no market study. Still, it’s really convenient for people like us.

I know what you mean—it’s the same in India. And often, it’s a complete failure and they close just as fast as they opened

I just checked the map you sent me the link to—I’d zoomed in (Nan area) and printed it—but I can’t find route 1256. I wanted to see if I could pick a destination that would force me to take that road, because I’m not sure the guy will know "route 1256." So if I tell him, "I want to go to this village," he’ll have to take route 1256...

My landlady, always as charming as ever, says she’ll ask her neighbor who has a 4x4 if he’s interested in taking me on a little trip. But as you know, I have to tell him, "I want to go here today, there tomorrow, and over there the day after..." I don’t know if he’ll recognize road names/numbers.

My landlady is super dynamic (and smart and well-educated). She rides a motorbike and has already taken me around the city several times to show me where I can find this or that—even things I don’t need. She just gave me another little gift: a box of fresh fruit that’s naturally sweet but... salty. And with it, a small jar I thought was some kind of jam to go with the fruit... When I tasted it, it was spicy (which I love), but it was *heavily* fish-based!!! I have no idea what it was. I’ll have to dump it in the toilet so she doesn’t find the untouched jar in the trash. She’s 63 and full of energy...

This afternoon, in a shoe store in town, I felt like a little boy with his mom...[;)] I have to say, I’m really not in great shape. Fever and exhaustion. I spent the whole morning in bed...

She lent me this road atlas, but it’s not great.

route 1256

In Thai "senthang neung song ha hok" เส้นทาง 1256

sort of jam to go with fruit... When I tried it, it was spicy (which I love), but it was heavily fish-based

The description could match shrimp paste, an ingredient whose raw smell and taste might put off our Western palates and noses, but which, when mixed with other ingredients, is used in many Thai recipes.

I had enlarged and printed the map you sent me a link to (Nan area), but I don’t see route 1256.

It’s not on that map, but it is on the next one (east of Pua).

Map of Nan province (full file so it keeps its details when enlarged):



Cropped view of the area of interest:

The description might match shrimp paste, an ingredient whose raw smell and taste can put off our Western palates and noses, and which, when mixed with other ingredients, is used in many Thai cuisine recipes.

No, it wasn’t shrimp. It was very dark brown, almost black—it really made me think of jam, not a "paste." Maybe it’s a Korean specialty. We were in a Korean shop... for the wealthy... Because there were lots of rare, high-quality products, and I suppose a bit pricey for the average Thai budget...

Map of Nan Province (full file so it keeps its details when enlarged):

Thanks for the map. I’ll check it out tomorrow... I’m heading back to bed

Ask the landlady to take you to karaoke: it’ll be super authentic and absolutely unforgettable!

Ask the landlady to take you to karaoke: it’ll be super authentic and absolutely unforgettable!

Since karaoke spots are often flirting hotspots, and given how much Thai widows are drawn to older foreigners—and how well she’s been looking after him since he arrived—it could definitely be unforgettable, that’s for sure...

Hope we'll get some photos [:P]

You mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into that detail. Which is no longer a detail but a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis... at least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one...

My reply from 01/21:

Nan-Chiang Rai bus: route 611, Kor Sahakit Dernrod company. If it no longer exists...

Update: as of 01/22/2026, the Nan-Chiang Rai bus still runs daily except on Thursdays*. Departs at 9 AM, 250 baht, arrives at Chiang Rai’s downtown terminal. ~5h30 trip. Buy your ticket the day before. During the first half of the trip, the bus heads straight north to Tha Wang Pha, then turns west onto a road that roughly follows the Laotian border, passing through some beautiful mountain scenery. The second half descends into the plains, heading northwest via Chiang Kham and Thoeng.

*Except on Wednesdays in the opposite direction.

I was just about to drop you a line. I’ve just come back from the night market on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays... I stumbled upon this market tonight by pure chance. I had no idea... What an atmosphere! Nothing like what I experienced last year. This year, I’m really discovering Thailand...

I walked another 15 km through this charming little town, and just as I was heading to the bus terminal—where I got the info—the (small) bus from Chiang Rai to Nan pulled in right as I arrived...

For me, visiting a country isn’t just about seeing museums, temples, or palaces. It’s about experiencing the city itself—the vibe, the general atmosphere, seeing people live their daily lives... I had just as much fun wandering through the streets, checking out all sorts of stalls with pots, tools, and all kinds of odds and ends you don’t see anywhere in France or Europe anymore. It brought back memories of my childhood in the 1950s... And finally, I saw all those spontaneous smiles you kept telling me about last year—where I only saw polite, business-like smiles and a lot of people looking miserable.

Whether some like it or not, the difference is in a city not ruined by tourism...

I’m almost regretting saying I wouldn’t do another travel journal.

My landlady isn’t at all what you might imagine in your fantasies, and neither am I, for that matter. She’s just naturally kind—like me!!!—and takes her role as a host seriously... with everyone, I think. Just look at all the reviews on Booking.com.

She’s not the type to INVITE you for tea and then secretly send her helper to charge you for it after she just OFFERED it to you!!!

Don’t worry, my keyboard’s acting up, and I don’t feel like fixing everything... This isn’t a travel journal...

this charming little town

It’s a provincial capital, though you’d easily forget that when you stay there—it’s so small and charming, and I’d add that car traffic is much lighter than in many other provincial capitals. You won’t see many foreign tourists* because the province’s policy is to do everything possible to avoid becoming like Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. That’s why they don’t promote it—the locals just want to keep things peaceful. *Though you might see some Thai tourists this weekend.

I’ll almost regret saying I won’t do another travel journal.

You don’t have to make a full one for the whole trip—you could just do one about Nan.

You might want to consider making a little detour to Pua—we stayed there when we visited the northern part of the province.

You might wanna consider making a little detour to Pua—we stayed there when we visited the northern part of the province.

And that’s exactly where Highway 1256 starts...

You might wanna consider a quick stop in Pua—we stayed there when we visited the northern part of the province.

Thanks, Joël. It was planned...

Map of Nan province (full file so it keeps its details when enlarged):



Would you mind sending me the link so I can check it out anytime without having to log in to VF? Thanks a bunch!

No, because I don’t remember which site I found it on. I just did a Google Images search but had no luck—only maps of the province that aren’t detailed enough and in really low resolution.

It’s not perfect, but it’s not too bad either—here’s one option: https://www.mychiangmaitravel.com/nan-travel/

Thanks so much for working on this for me... It's really kind!

When I showed my plan to my landlady based on your advice, she took charge. She organized everything. At first, I was skeptical and even annoyed because I thought: here’s another person who’s going to decide for me. But what she put together seems really smart and well-balanced. Plus, she told me I should spend at least two nights outside of Nan to really enjoy the mountains. And since the driver she’d arranged (her neighbor) wasn’t keen on a trip with two nights away from home, she contacted no fewer than three drivers. First, a lovely young woman (she even came to meet me) from Nan to Bo Kluea. Then another driver from Bo Kluea to Pua. Overnight in Pua. I booked a room in a homestay outside the village, in the middle of the rice fields—it looks super comfortable and affordable. And a third driver from Pua to Chiang Klang/Thung Chang, where I’ll spend the second night. The manager of this homestay will pick me up in Pua and then take me back to Nan on the third day. With all the photo stops, bathroom breaks, meals, and visits at my own pace...

If it goes as she described, it should be amazing all around. But I couldn’t figure out how much it was going to cost. - You’ll see with each of them, but it won’t be expensive...

😐😊

As someone who’s usually a total skeptic, this time I’m putting my trust in this little lady. Here’s her plan:

Program that reeks of a touristy package tour, the accommodation owner being all sweet with you from the start and now suddenly acting as the organizer of said program, not being able to know the price before leaving... I fear the pigeon hunt is on.

Program that reeks of a touristy package trip, the accommodation owner being all sweet with you from the start and now improvising as the organizer of said program, unable to know the price before leaving... I fear the pigeon hunt is on.

I hesitated for a long time before sending my itinerary... I’m sorry to contradict you—you might be right—but I’m an old-school traveler, and I’ve got nearly 20 years of experience traveling in India. The mentality about "touristy" stuff is the same, as is this kind of pigeon hunt. I can sniff them out from 10 km away... But since I’ve got a bad cold and my nose is really stuffed up right now, maybe I didn’t smell anything... Anyway, it’s too late to back out now... So I’m wishing myself a great trip through the mountains in the north of Nan Province.

I hope I'm wrong. No matter what happens, this’ll be a trip where at least two spots are bound to be unforgettable...

Program that reeks of a touristy package tour, the accommodation owner who was all sweetness and light with you at first and now suddenly fancies herself as the organizer of said program, no way to know the price before you leave... I fear the pigeon-hunting season is open.

If you want to put together a circuit in places like this, you’ve basically got three options: - you miraculously stumble upon a rare gem who knows everything and really gets the desires of a non-conventional Westerner - you let yourself be guided by the local organizer - you prep it like a pro with dozens, even hundreds of hours of online research in the months beforehand

Sometimes we’re quick to throw the first stone, which is easy when you’ve got a fair bit of experience...

Good evening, I’ll get back to both of you soon. I just got home this afternoon and can’t wait to look at my photos on my computer instead of my camera screen. Last year in February, I didn’t see a single slash-and-burn fire in the mountains I traveled through, but this year, they’ve already started everywhere since January… So, we’re really getting a lot of haze this time around.

It's awful from January to March. Recently, they were lucky in Chiang Mai because the wind was blowing exceptionally in the right direction. Generally, during those few months, it's the most polluted city on the planet.

There's quite a bit of smoke coming from Cambodia that drifts southwest, which means even Hua Hin and Prachuap aren't spared.

There’s a lot of talk about this at the highest levels, but not much action. There’s a phone number where people can report illegal fires. I guess in many cases, it’s just an opportunity for police to pocket a few bills...

Hello, This discussion isn’t a travel journal, so I’ll keep it short. No, my nose wasn’t blocked when it came to this plan or these people. My instincts rarely lead me astray—a professional bias and a solid grasp of Indian-Asian attitudes toward tourists.

To cut a long story short, my first driver, a charming young woman, didn’t charge me anything at all from Nan to Bo Kluea. The kind, completely illiterate farmer—but who knew how to count—who took me from Bo Kluea to Pua via Route 1256 first asked for 1800 baht, then added 500 baht for fuel at the last minute (right before leaving, though), bringing the total to 2300 baht. That seemed entirely reasonable to me since he’d made himself available just for me at my helpful driver’s request and had to make the return trip home. The third driver—the owner of the resort where I was staying the second night—charged me 2500 baht to drive me around Doi Phu Kha all day. He didn’t charge me anything at all to take me back from Thung Chang to Nan the next day. And since I asked for a cheaper room—there were some—than the 1000 baht one he’d reserved for me, he lowered the price to 800 baht. Keeping the same room, of course. That was a real steal because even the 1000 baht price was a bargain given the beauty and quality of the accommodation, not to mention the natural surroundings that many hoteliers use as an excuse to inflate their rates. And the next morning, I woke up to the lovely surprise of a delicious and hearty breakfast included in the nightly rate. A bit too Western for my taste—the breakfast, that is—since he clearly wanted to please me, as 99% of his clientele is Thai or from neighboring Asian countries...

Since this isn’t a travel journal, I won’t go on and on about how amazing this resort and its magical surroundings are.

One thing’s for sure: I promised him I’d come back to stay for three weeks next year. There’s plenty to keep me busy with trekking, car trips, swimming—in the river flowing below the gorgeous teak bungalows—and lazing around, all while stuffing myself with excellent food cooked by his wife.

Unfortunately, after a flare-up of my coughing, sneezing, and breathing problems, I’m wondering if the agricultural burning isn’t to blame...

In conclusion: Instead of "pigeon hunting," they kindly "scattered grain for the pigeon."

You mentioned an unforgettable memory? That’s definitely the case...

A program that screams "cookie-cutter tour" from miles away, the accommodation owner being all sweet with you from the start and now suddenly playing tour organizer, not being able to know the price before leaving... I fear the pigeon hunt is on.

When planning a trip to places like this, either: - you miraculously stumble upon a rare gem who knows everything and really gets the wishes of a non-conventional Westerner - you let the local organizer take the lead - you prepare like a pro with dozens or even hundreds of hours of online research in the months before

Sometimes we throw the first stone, which is easy when you’ve got quite a bit of experience...

I’m going with the first option... And when a non-conventional Western traveler meets a non-conventional Thai resort owner, it’s a total win. And in the non-conventional category, you’ve got to include the place itself: neither a hotel, nor a homestay, nor a resort...[;]

Hello,

To keep it short, my first driver—a charming young woman—didn’t charge me anything at all from Nan to Bo Kluea. The kind, completely illiterate farmer (but who knew how to count!) who took me from Bo Kluea to Pua via Route 1256 first asked for 1,800 baht, then added 500 baht for fuel at the last minute (right before leaving, though), bringing the total to 2,300 baht, which seemed entirely reasonable since he went out of his way for me at my helpful driver’s request and had to make the return trip home. The third driver—the owner of the resort where I was staying the second night—charged me 2,500 baht to drive me around Doi Phu Kha all day. He didn’t charge me anything to take me back from Thung Chang to Nan the next day. And since I asked for a cheaper room—there were some—than the 1,000 baht one he’d reserved for me, he lowered the price to 800 baht. Same room, of course. That was a real steal because even the 1,000 baht price was a great deal given the beauty and quality of the accommodation, not to mention the natural surroundings that many hoteliers use as an excuse to inflate their rates. And the next morning, I was pleasantly surprised to find a delicious and hearty breakfast included in the nightly rate. It was a bit too Western-style for my taste—clearly, he wanted to please me, as 99% of his guests are Thai or from neighboring Asian countries...

Since this isn’t a travel journal, I won’t gush about this resort and its magical surroundings here.

One thing’s for sure: I promised him I’d come back to stay for three weeks next year. There’s plenty to keep busy with—trekking, car trips, swimming in the river that flows below the beautiful teak bungalows—and just relaxing while stuffing yourself with the excellent food his wife cooks.

So, to summarize (and correct me if I’m wrong): Day 1: Nan to Bo Kluea (+ exploring the area) with the young driver, then the 50 km on Route 1256 to Pua with the farmer who knows how to count, overnight in Pua. Day 2: No exploring around Pua. The resort owner from Thung Chang picks you up at your Pua accommodation, takes you for a day trip to Doi Phu Kha National Park, then heads to Thung Chang for a night at his resort. Day 3: The same owner drives you back to Nan—it’s at his place that you promised to return for three weeks next year.

Does my summary check out? No little detour around Thung Chang before heading back to Nan? Is the Thung Chang resort in town? (It’d be easier if you shared its name.) Could you sum up your impressions of Doi Phu Kha National Park in one or two lines, please?

No short walk around the Thung Chang area before heading back to Nan? Is the Thung Chang resort in town? (It’d be easier if you mentioned its name.) Could you summarize your impressions of Doi Phu Kha National Park in one or two lines, please?

This was replying to "the first stone" Joël was talking about... Just to say the pigeon wasn’t shot because there were NO pigeon hunters at all.

This discussion isn’t a travel journal...

You should’ve realized by now that I’m—supposedly—a pain in the neck who’s hard to please. If I say it was unforgettable, it’s because it was unforgettable. I intentionally don’t give any details; I was just saying it wasn’t a "program that reeks of a cookie-cutter tour" and that I didn’t get ripped off... I’ve got nothing else to add on this topic.

I want to thank you again for pointing me toward Nan last year. And even if I neglected it last year, I hadn’t forgotten, and I followed your advice this year...

No short walk around the Thung Chang area before heading back to Nan? Is the Thung Chang resort in town? (It’d be easier if you mentioned its name.) Could you sum up your impressions of Doi Phu Kha National Park in one or two lines, please?

This message was replying to Joël’s “first stone”... Just to say the pigeon wasn’t shot because there were NO pigeon hunters around.

This discussion isn’t a travel journal...

You should’ve realized by now that I’m—supposedly—a pain in the neck to please. If I say it was unforgettable, it’s because it was unforgettable. I deliberately didn’t give any details; I was just saying it wasn’t a “program that reeks of a cookie-cutter tour” and that I didn’t get ripped off... I’ve got nothing else to add on this topic.

I want to thank you again for pointing me toward Nan last year. And even though I neglected it last year, I hadn’t forgotten, and I followed your advice this year...

First time I’m the one asking someone for info...

No short walk around the Thung Chang area before heading back to Nan? Is the Thung Chang resort in town? (It’d be easier if you mentioned its name.) Could you sum up your impressions of Doi Phu Kha National Park in one or two lines, please?

This was replying to "the first stone" Joël was talking about... Just to say the pigeon wasn’t shot because there were NO pigeon hunters.

This discussion isn’t a travel journal...

You should’ve realized by now that I’m—supposedly—a pain in the neck who’s hard to please. If I say it was unforgettable, it’s because it was unforgettable. I deliberately don’t give any details; I was just saying it wasn’t a "program that reeks of a cookie-cutter tour" and that I didn’t get ripped off... I’ve got nothing else to add on this topic.

I want to thank you again for pointing me toward Nan last year. And even if I neglected it last year, I hadn’t forgotten, and I followed your advice this year...

For once, it was me asking someone for info...

It’s unlikely I’ll write a travel journal about this second trip to Thailand, but I’ll answer any practical questions via PM about the places I visited and accommodations. I do have three great spots to recommend.

Someone recently wrote—I can’t remember which thread—that as soon as an off-the-beaten-path place is posted online, it instantly loses its off-the-beaten-path status. The real danger is travel agencies and other tourism service providers who now use "off the beaten path" as their main selling point. In less than a year, a magical place, a hidden gem, can turn into something completely ruined by sudden crowds. A magical place, a gem, should be shared with those who deserve it—not thrown out there for anyone and everyone. And definitely not served up on a public forum. So if you want, I’ll tell you all about it in a PM (as long as you unblock me 😅😊).

I myself used to run guest rooms and an upscale guest table back in the 80s. Some enthusiastic and friendly guests wanted to be nice and promote me. They put up tons of posters with glowing reviews about me all over the (5-star) campsite. A year later, I saw rude, uncouth, ill-mannered people showing up at my place in swimsuits, behaving like pigs at the table... Just because you’ve got money doesn’t mean you’ve got class or refinement... And I ended up a victim of too much haphazard publicity aimed at just anyone...

For now, here are some photos from my trip.

Highway 1256 offered stunning landscapes, but the haze from the burn-offs kept me from getting decent photos, even after post-processing.







I had better luck wandering around the countryside near Pua in the late afternoon.







And the next morning before heading to Doi Phu Kha (Doi Sakat).

And even more luck on the evening of my arrival in Thung Chang during a lovely little hike at the end of the day in the surrounding countryside.







And the next morning as well, during a beautiful riverside walk before heading off to Nan.

You:

That said, Thierry, I’m sending you this message because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into that detail. Which is no longer a detail but a real thorn in my side—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis... at least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one. I’ll go check directly at the bus station tomorrow because online, it’s only taxis, no buses.

Me:

Update: as of 01/22/2026, the Nan-Chiang Rai bus still runs daily except on Thursdays*. Departs at 9 AM, 250 baht, arrives at Chiang Rai’s downtown terminal. ~5h30 trip. Buy your ticket the day before. For the first half of the trip, the bus heads straight north to Tha Wang Pha, then turns west onto a road that more or less follows the Laotian border, passing through some gorgeous mountain scenery. The second half descends into the plains heading northwest, passing through Chiang Kham and Thoeng.

*Except on Wednesdays in the opposite direction.

So how did you end up making the trip? The 2,500-baht taxi or the 250-baht bus as described above?

You:

That said, Thierry, I’m sending you this message because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into that detail. Which is no longer a detail—it’s a real pain now—because there’s no bus to Chiang Rai. Only taxis... at least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one... I’ll go check the bus station directly tomorrow. Because online, it’s only taxis, no buses.

Me:

Update: as of 01/22/2026, the Nan-Chiang Rai bus still runs daily except on Thursdays*. Departs at 9 AM, 250 baht, arrives at Chiang Rai’s downtown terminal. ~5h30 trip. Buy your ticket the day before. For the first half of the trip, the bus heads straight north to Tha Wang Pha, then turns west onto a road that more or less follows the Laotian border, passing through some gorgeous mountain scenery. The second half descends into the plains, heading northwest through Chiang Kham and Thoeng.

*Except on Wednesdays in the opposite direction.

So how did you end up making the trip? 2,500-baht taxi or the 250-baht bus as described above?

Hey, I haven’t even talked about Chiang Rai yet—I was still in Nan, enjoying that three-day getaway that I loved so much... Yes, of course, I took the 250-baht bus... And I think I already thanked you for the tip when you gave it to me... I was just too eager to post photos in your "Countryside Escapes" thread to talk about my arrival in Chiang Rai. It was my way of thanking you for your advice by contributing more actively to your discussion. I’m losing my mind... juggling multiple threads at once. Plus, ever since my brain was deprived of oxygen, I’ve had some lingering cognitive issues...[;)]

I was planning to talk about the bus later... It’s really great, and I didn’t even notice the time passing...

Attention forum administrators

Hello, Since January 31st, I haven’t been receiving any email notifications. Neither replies in the threads I follow nor new threads that have been opened. It’s really quite annoying. I’ve already reported this several times, but to no avail. Thank you. Best regards, Marien

I’m wrapping up my second trip to Thailand in style today with a little excursion into the border area with Myanmar at Doi Hua Mae Kham. Tomorrow and Saturday I’ll be unwinding, and on Sunday I’m off to Bangkok for a couple of days before flying to India. I’ve said it a few times already—there wouldn’t be a travel journal. But if I had a great trip, it’s really thanks to the tips and advice from Joël and Thierry. A special shout-out to Thierry (Songsam), who helped me discover two highlights: NAN and THA TON. So yes, especially for them, to say thank you, I’ll put together that travel journal. I owe them that much. But you’ll have to be a little patient—right, Joël?—to give me time to readjust to my Indian life, or more precisely, my Indian pace: deep-cleaning after the trip, grocery shopping, laundry, friends eager to see me again, delicious meals and desserts to prepare, my bougainvillea, my hammock, my early-morning walks—especially with the start of the brutal hot months ahead... In France, people complain about a heatwave after a few days at 28°C or 30°C... But where I’ll be, it’ll be three months, each hotter than the last.

That’s really nice, for us and for a few others who unfortunately probably won’t respond. We’ll be patient. My reward might be publishing a travel journal that’ll give you more to read than the last one (and a different destination). That is, if the format of these old photos is downloadable and if VoyageForum technically allows it. Based on my first tests, it’s not looking promising...

I’ve repeated several times that there wouldn’t be a travel journal. But if I had a great trip, it’s thanks to the tips and advice from Joël and Thierry. A special shout-out to Thierry (Songsam), who helped me discover two highlights: NAN and THA TON. So yes, especially for them, to say thank you, I’ll make this travel journal.

Not sure how to respond to all that, so I’ll keep it simple and short: thanks.

I didn’t know you’d also stopped in Tha Ton. If you liked this little town, it’s probably because it’s regained all its charm after the destructive floods it suffered in September 2024.